I had an issue with my clutch slipping after doing very slow technical climbs and operating very hot. Turned out I was overfilling my clutch fluid reservoir
So I just switched mine from 2 to 3 and now my clutch pull is waaaaay tight. I tried it on 1 as well. Even tighter. Went back to 2….tight as f still. It was fine (but had a semi hard pull on 2) now it’s totally cement. Any thoughts? Not sure where I went wrong. I torqued them to spec at 6nm so it’s not over tightened. One thing I did do was try to shift it from neutral to 1st while I had the cover off and the spring screws weren’t tightened all the way. Would that have done something funky? It shifts still now….
I doubt it’s damaged. But, it’s possible you’ve got something together wrong. If it’s very different from how it was, might be worth opening it again and looking for anything that might be interfering or installed wrong
can you speak more about each setting? like if the clutch is older and worn would changing the setting from 2 to 3 get more life out of it? or going from 2 to 1 be better for an older clutch? ya know what i mean?
Yes, you are spot on. As the clutch plates wear, you will need to increase spring pressure to take up the slack. Rekluse has recommended settings in their instruction sheet for what thickness should trigger what adjustment. I'm guessing the KTM manual does as well but I have not looked. I don't know the suggested settings, I adjust mine by feel. If it's starting to slip, I go up a step.
@@tothepoint4240hey buddy it’s a year later and am wondering the same thing, if clutch pack is starting to wear down and getting a bit of slippage which way did you go to get it to stop slipping and like new again? I took the plates out and they still look really good. I have a brand new clutch pack but don’t want to put it in yet.
I have a 350 and since new the lever engagement is too close to the handlebar for my liking. I’ve tried adjusting the plastic screw on the lever but then the lever is too far out of reach for my liking. Will adjusting this ring help me with the engagement point? If so should I move it to position 1? Thanks.
No, the spring won't have any impact on lever position. I recommend the clever lever or similar for adjustablility and better performance. We did a video on it, czcams.com/video/2sTwQNjtDcA/video.html
I can't remember which side is "stiffer" without looking at it, but if you're on the lighter side of the range and feel slipping, try the next step. If you're already on the tightest setting and it's still slipping, you may need new clutch friction plates.
You can tell which side is stiffer by looking at the steps on the back of the pressure plate. You'll see three steps, the tallest is going to place the most pressure on the plates.
@@ExtremeSportsWannaBes Hi, Nope, Think again. Position #3 puts LESS pressure on the plates because it is tallest position. Remember.. THAT is why YOU went from position #3 to position #2. Position #1 is thinnest and compresses the Bellville washer the Most. Take Care 🙃
If you’re removing it, put the bike in gear. That should hold it in place. If you’re installing it, the torque is really low and you should be able to counter hold it by hand
Another dodgy how too the bevel bolts are torqued to 6nm and the spring should be checked with a straight edge once you hit 6nm the gap across the bevel spring should be 0-1mm
That’s good info for people having issues with the spring itself. I’ve found though that so often people get caught up in a kind of mythology around engine work where they vastly over index the importance and implications of stuff like this and kinda miss my forest for the trees as the old saying goes.
I just installed a Rekluse core manual and I have the same issue of clutch slip when the engine is hot. You said in your video that you were going to test and see if the change you made actually solved the problem. So how did it go?
I had an issue with my clutch slipping after doing very slow technical climbs and operating very hot. Turned out I was overfilling my clutch fluid reservoir
Great video. Appreciate your language and patience. Have a great day
So I just switched mine from 2 to 3 and now my clutch pull is waaaaay tight. I tried it on 1 as well. Even tighter. Went back to 2….tight as f still. It was fine (but had a semi hard pull on 2) now it’s totally cement. Any thoughts? Not sure where I went wrong. I torqued them to spec at 6nm so it’s not over tightened. One thing I did do was try to shift it from neutral to 1st while I had the cover off and the spring screws weren’t tightened all the way. Would that have done something funky? It shifts still now….
I doubt it’s damaged. But, it’s possible you’ve got something together wrong. If it’s very different from how it was, might be worth opening it again and looking for anything that might be interfering or installed wrong
FYI, BellVILLE, not Bellevue washer.
Appreciate that, wasn’t sure
can you speak more about each setting? like if the clutch is older and worn would changing the setting from 2 to 3 get more life out of it? or going from 2 to 1 be better for an older clutch? ya know what i mean?
Yes, you are spot on. As the clutch plates wear, you will need to increase spring pressure to take up the slack. Rekluse has recommended settings in their instruction sheet for what thickness should trigger what adjustment. I'm guessing the KTM manual does as well but I have not looked.
I don't know the suggested settings, I adjust mine by feel. If it's starting to slip, I go up a step.
@@ExtremeSportsWannaBes dude right on. That is exactly what I needed to know. Thank you!
@@tothepoint4240hey buddy it’s a year later and am wondering the same thing, if clutch pack is starting to wear down and getting a bit of slippage which way did you go to get it to stop slipping and like new again? I took the plates out and they still look really good. I have a brand new clutch pack but don’t want to put it in yet.
My 350excf 2022 is jumping forward when putting it in gear with clutch in. I've blead the clutch. Doing this will it help?
It might. But my first guess would that something is up within the clutch or the hydraulics. Is it only doing this cold? Or also hot?
@@ExtremeSportsWannaBes I found the problem it was the clutch plates. They're shot to bits with only 23 hours on the bike
Yikes! I’ve been there. In one case too little oil was a problem, in another the bushings in the clutch basket were worn.
@WannaBes yeah I think it's been not enough oil. Lesson learned
I have a 350 and since new the lever engagement is too close to the handlebar for my liking. I’ve tried adjusting the plastic screw on the lever but then the lever is too far out of reach for my liking. Will adjusting this ring help me with the engagement point? If so should I move it to position 1? Thanks.
No, the spring won't have any impact on lever position. I recommend the clever lever or similar for adjustablility and better performance. We did a video on it, czcams.com/video/2sTwQNjtDcA/video.html
Did you ever find a fix? My 23 300xc same issues, new and the lever has to be adjusted way out.
How did 2nd setting change? I’m on 3 now and feel it slipping as well in low gear…
I can't remember which side is "stiffer" without looking at it, but if you're on the lighter side of the range and feel slipping, try the next step. If you're already on the tightest setting and it's still slipping, you may need new clutch friction plates.
@@ExtremeSportsWannaBes it’s brand new and I have it on 3. Wondering if 1 is the stiffest. 2022 300 tpi. Brand new rekluse
You can tell which side is stiffer by looking at the steps on the back of the pressure plate. You'll see three steps, the tallest is going to place the most pressure on the plates.
@@ExtremeSportsWannaBes thanks!!
@@ExtremeSportsWannaBes Hi, Nope, Think again. Position #3 puts LESS pressure on the plates because it is tallest position. Remember.. THAT is why YOU went from position #3 to position #2. Position #1 is thinnest and compresses the Bellville washer the Most. Take Care 🙃
My washer and the screws spin when I try and remove. Yours didn’t. Any idea why?
You mean the clutch stack is turning?
@@ExtremeSportsWannaBes yes
@@ExtremeSportsWannaBes the Belleville washer and the plates spin
If you’re removing it, put the bike in gear. That should hold it in place. If you’re installing it, the torque is really low and you should be able to counter hold it by hand
Another dodgy how too
the bevel bolts are torqued to 6nm and the spring should be checked with a straight edge once you hit 6nm the gap across the bevel spring should be 0-1mm
That’s good info for people having issues with the spring itself. I’ve found though that so often people get caught up in a kind of mythology around engine work where they vastly over index the importance and implications of stuff like this and kinda miss my forest for the trees as the old saying goes.
Better using a drill these impacts strip the threads
Tytyty
I just installed a Rekluse core manual and I have the same issue of clutch slip when the engine is hot. You said in your video that you were going to test and see if the change you made actually solved the problem. So how did it go?