6.0 Powerstroke VGT Turbo Problems and Fixes
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- čas přidán 8. 04. 2021
- In this video the 6.0 bros show you how to get to the root problem of vgt turbocharger performance issues. The 6.0 powerstroke came with a gt37 vgt turbo and over the years there have been numerous issues and complaints. part of the vgt turbo performance issues have been related to sensors or pigtails that needed replaced. many people have replaced the turbo without fixing this issue. you may gain some performance back but it will only come back shortly. So in this video we talk about all the things to look for prior to determining that you need to replace your turbo. This video is all about 6.0 Powerstroke VGT Turbo Problems and Fixes. We go over a lot of over looked parts in determining what causes there to be 6.0 powerstroke vgt problems. the 6.0
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#powerstroke #ford #sixpointzero - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Here is the video I on things to check to verify issues on this truck czcams.com/video/SYnrJuLYfOY/video.html
I watched this video immediately. After went to my truck, popped the hood checked everything out, decided to check my air filter cleaner and it was filthy dirty swapped It out with a new one secured all my clamps down. Thank God now my truck runs like new
Glad to hear it man. This ilwas the main reason I made this video
Really dirty filter. Made that much difference?
Testing purposes are important! Very important! 😁
I agree!
Was looking at a borg Warner s634.5 was wondering if I could run that without studding my heads
Definitely the exhaust back pressure sensor, would’ve been my first check
I taught you will
What would cause a p132b code need help thank you
I got 06 I replaced the VGT solenoid I have not pulled the turbo truck will run good then the egt starts climbing and goes into limp I let it cool down shut it off then restart and no limp but I can tell the veins are not moving
Thanks for the helpful video! My 07 bucks/surges/lugs when going up inclines, until you kick it down to the next lower gear, cleaned, tested and inspected the Map sensor, EBP and EGR, all clean and working fine, checked all intake and intercooler coupler boots, still have issue. Any suggestions?
I am sorry I am very late to responding. did you get this sorted out? what was the overall shape of your intercooler couplers? I find that they may look ok they are not always in decent shape and need replaced. sometimes the tear in them is only visible under pressure and may still be letting air out. I would monitor vgt duty cycle, EBP, boost, ipr, and ICP voltage while recreating it to see if it gives me more information
My MAP sensor did fail reading 3 when it should be 14. The hose was cracked and the nipple on the intake was about plugged with oily carbon. Now I am waiting for cooler weather to replace the injector harness and update the ficm. My ficm voltage is 30 when the engine is running. I would also suggest a fuel pressure gauge to save the injectors.
But in the scheme of things it doesn't often fail was my point. I agree fuel pressure is a good one. If there isn't enough fuel it won't make enough boost. B
Mine was trashed causing a ton of issues
So the previous owner didn't take care of it I take it? I have spoken to many people that the prior owner didn't take care of it, or they went to people that didn't know how to work on it.
So I have a 2004 6.0 Love my truck. But the past two years things have been failing. I have always had some sort of turbo issue. I have received the P0299 code since I bought the truck in 2017. But I only would get it if I jumped in drove off right away. If I let it idle and the vanes do their first sweep then I don't get it. But when we moved from FL to NY my VGTs started sticking at 85% most of the time. Let off the throttle VGT went between 40 and 60%. Last spring the VGTs stuck at either 15 or 85% and would not change even after letting off the throttle. So I had to replace my HPOP and since the turbo was off I had it cleaned. The unison ring was stuck. Turbo is back to working great, so it seemed. Then even after the truck warmed up the first sweep wouldn't happen till I started moving, then it was fine. But recently I have been getting the error for the EBP sensor. I bought a new sensor and tube. Just waiting for a day with some what decent temps to put it in. Is there anything else I should be looking at, maybe replacing the VGT solenoid?
Sounds like maybe the unison ring may been worn out and they eventually get oblong on the ends of the ring causing sticking. I don't think your vgt solenoid is the issue it could be but I don't think. Your turbo may just need replaced or a new unison ring. When they start needing all those parts done I do tell people it may be best to replace it if that I'd an option. I would do the ebp sensor first and see but if the whole system checks out no leaks or anything and it is still giving you a hard time it may need replaced. What does that code say off the top of my head im not sure
I had very low boost and turbo wouldn’t spool almost at all and it was due to my Y pipe up pipe not seated properly up to the turbo. I loosened everything up and hooked it up the right way then it seemed a lot better and was working. Now running into a similar issue I think it’s my EBP or a leak in the MAP hose
did you fix this issue? That hose is very common to fail. I would be a little surprised about EBP sensor but the tube to it being clogged is a high possibility.
I have a 2003 f350 6.0. Build date is within the first 2 weeks of January 2003. I replaced the ICP sensor due to it leaking oil when I first purchased the truck. EGR is welded up and no issues there. A few months ago I had a code come up for a injector on cylinder 4 it started having a dead miss at a idle but ran perfect under acceleration. Miss would only show up when truck was warmed up. Replaced it and ran perfect for about 3 weeks, now it has started surging at a idle after it’s warmed up. Only codes showing are for egr, mass air flow, and p132b. Truck is straight piped with cats, so basically just a muffler delete. I have never had the trade mark jet engine 6.0 whistle at a idle. Truck runs fine going down the road and and you can hear the turbo when accelerating. Any input would be helpful. I’ve been reading about the EBP sensor and I’m thinking about pulling it off and see if it is dirty. Thanks I’m advance
I would verify all sensors are working correctly related to vgt so that's maf, map(also check hose from intake manifold to sensor for cracks or leaks) ebp, vgt duty cycle. If everything there checks out I would turn around and then clean and inspect the turbo. Also verify fuel pressure and no exhaust or boost leaks
My truck is doing somthing like this to can you here the miss fire from the exhaust I can’t tell it’s messing up unless you are standing behind it and here it kinda studder only at IDLE tho
I got a nasty squeal from turbo on start up. Unplugged the vgt solenoid and it stops squealing? Is the turbo shot? Also have a exhaust manifold leak on passenger side
My guess is there is something wrong with the vanes in your turbo it sounds like. Or maybe with the bearings. I would make sure you have a good oil feed tube and that your drain tube is good and consider maybe a replacement turbo but I would need to pull it to really tell if it was bad. Are you sure it's the turbo and not coming from the y pipe or up pipe?
Hi 6.0 Bros my 2003 Ford f 350 6.0 power stroke is Turbo keeps cutting in-and-out this is the 2nd time it's done it and I don't know what to do
Define cutting in and out? What specifically is it doing thr turbo vanes defaulting to wide open or commanded shut, no boost?
@six0bros Ive checked every pipe and boot for leaks and nothing. Y pipes have zero soot around them. Checked Baro and Map linked together pretty much exact. I watched the duty cycle in park it cycle from around 55-60% at idle but once I put it in gesr the cycle goes to 84% and stays. Once in a while it will give me a few lbs of boost 2-3lbs and blow out massive amounts of black smoke. Not sure if its a turbo issue or a vgt issue. Im pulling exhaust tomorrow to make sure the cat isnt clogged and causing an issue. Any Ideas without actually buying a new vgt soleniod and trying it out. Its been deleted fass fuel all the goodies have been done. Im at a loss without ripping the turbo out and checking the rings figured Id ask if you have any ideas thanks.
I believe your VGT is not functioning properly. you could pull out your turbo and clean the unison ring. I think I have a video on that and I may be making an updated one. you may have a unison ring that has worn out and is getting stuck. that is what I would start with. it is essentially free other than time to take it off and it may save you the cost of buying a part that isnt bad.
Very good video, no bullsh*t cutesy stuff .
Just facts
Thank you
thank you man. I do try to get to the point I am not always great at it but on the more informative videos I do try to not get to out of hand with the extra stuff. just what are people looking for when they need this information
I find videos like this are much more useful.
Having a base knowledge myself the "bang bang" explanations are nice to bounce my own thoughts off of quickly as I'm more looking to troubleshoot or gain knowledge of what I'm searching.
I'd keep doing what your doing the niche of it will find you ✌🏽
@twizz5727 I know exactly what you mean. When I'm looming something up sometimes the extra nonsense is frustrating. Thanks for the support. Hope you have a good rest of the weekend
I got an 07 6.0 just started today my trucks is idling rough,runs rough ,and hearing a hissing sound still builds boost but not like it was doing. Any ideas?
Same problem
My guess would be an exhaust leak or a boost leak. I would take some soapy water in a spray bottle and start looking for it. Look for black soot around each exhaust port or against the fire wall. I would replace all the intercooler boots as they are often overlooked. Intercooler can be an issue, also if you have a plastic cold side pipe, I would replace it with a metadl
All solenoids n sensors are new. New ebp pipe. N unless I’m laying into pedal I hv no boost. Then I stand on pedal it kicks in n takes off after a min. Number 8 injector is on way out can that be the issue? One weak injector?
I do not think it would be 1 weak injector causing this. It sounds like a sticking unison ring or vanes. Have you double checked intercooler, cac boots, and exhuast leaks you can find around the y pipe? Though I'm leaning towards something sticking in the turbo itself. I would recommend pulling it and cleaning the exhaust side plus unison ring. Maybe even having a back up unison ring to put on just in case
I notice an issue while waiting at a light, light turned green i wnet ahead and pressed on the gas pedal and would go, it wasnt untill i pressed hard that it finall kicked in and went, now im having boost lag, i floor it and it takes a while to bosst but it is boosting, any ideas? Ive checked the map sensor and hose, about to go in deeper in a bit
I have the same problem right now did u figure out what it was
sorry for being so late but just seeing this now. I want to say this looks like boost or exhaust leak. they will still boost but increased lag. have you read your ebp at the same time to see what it is doing?
Just had a pigtail clip on mine break and the pigtail came unplugged. Freaked out bad when I lost boost and didn’t hear the whistle. I was relieved when I saw it was just that and not something major. Got it zip tied in for now just waiting on a new pigtail.
Nice glad it is an easy fix I know when I needed to replace my harness I had a moment when there was an issue but thankfully just a pigtail that needed replaced
@@six0bros Yeah I had an oh crap moment when it happened because I’m in school so I can’t really afford any major repairs on it right now lol.
Glad it's an easy one man I know that pain though
What pigtail are you talking about thanks
You should be able to buy any pigtail from Ford. I'm sure there are some online as well but I liked the Ford replacement harness
Recently bought a 6.0 and the symptoms was 0 PSI on the turbo
Truck ran but very slow
So for me the only issue was the hose running to the MAF Sensor was torn so I just replaced it and got all the power back
I have seen that several times before glad it was an easy fix man
There is a 6.0 for sale locally. The ad says there's a problem with the turbo and that it "goes on and off". Any idea what this could be?
I am making some assumption on thr on and off my first guess would be the connector at the turbo solenoid or thr solenoid itself. Going through and giving it a good test drive and once over will help tell more
Ok so I just swapped our 05 turbo to a 03 ten blade but no whistle at idel what could it be
Did you have whistle before, and how was the truck driving? Sometimes they need to relearn before they act right
I was real short on boost , found a hole . Got boost back within temporary patch until new tubes come in however it still does not sound or run quite like it did before I had all internals replaced . High pressure pump , low pressure pump , egr cooler . Maybe still got other hole somewhere .
Where was the hole? Do you have the plastic intercooler pipes? If so changing that out get new boots for all intercooler pipes as well should help. Check for exhaust leaks
@@six0bros yeah still plastic pipe
@@six0bros onthe top right by the dipstick . Should it have oil moisture going through it ?
@@six0bros it idles almost like it has a cam
Could be more than one spot with a leak I would wait until it is replaced
Ordering a KC stage 2 turbo this month!!! 😜🤪
I would love to hear you were going turbo time lol. Nah just messing with you. The kc you will love too brother
We recently welded the egr and put a new turbo in my dad 04 6.0 now there is no boost at high rpm there is only 1 - 2 psi and sometimes not even that, we didn’t tune it or anything we don’t know what’s the issue we have checked everything
Sometimes they need several drive cycles and idling to get thr air that gets trapped in the vgt cavity. I have heard of people hitting that part with a hammer not super hard but a few good taps to try and get it out. If all the sensors have been checked tested for leaks and everything then this would be my next thing to try. Was it a new turbo or reman?
@@six0bros we found the issue now the problem is not reading boost truck runs fine but there is no boost reading on the pcm, we have a tuner connected to it so we can see all the stuff but on boost it stays on 0
Check the hose from the intake manifold up to your map sensor that sits on the passenger side. Sometimes that hose has cracks in it. Also check to make sure that the port off the intake manifold isn't clogged either. Then check sensorbis plugged in
My dad has a 04 6.0, we rebuild the engine and put new turbo in, everything seemed fine until today we got a p0046 code, we welded de egr ( egr delete) , there is no boost truck is definitely missing power idk what to check everything seems right
Did you check everything I outlined in the video? Also the turbo was it remanded or brand new? Also sometimes when you replace the turbo it can get air stuck in the vgt system which can cause this issue. I can have more advice once I know what all you have done to diagnose the truck
Pcm
I have seen bad pcm cause major issues as well.
My 6.0 drives great sitting around 10lbs of boost when I give it a little more throttle than it really needs but once I give it the full wot that 10 psi turns to 0 I just put new injectors,fuel filter,map sensor,maf sensor, ibp sensor on it about 500 miles before it started doing this can’t find a single forum of a dude with the same exact issue
sorry for such a delayed response on my part. are you saying you cannot make more than 10 psi of boost? I would make sure the hose that leads from the manifold to the MAP sensor is not broken. I would also monitor your vgt duty cycle and see what it does when you try to WOT and let me know what it is
Everything was running perfect, washed my engine bay with some degreaser with engine off and turbo just shut off once I drove away. Didn’t hear the whistle. Drove about an hour turbo would kick in and out. Killed it popped the hood to let it dry out (most was dried already) got back in to drive a couple hours later and was over boosting and not shifting out. What do you think it could be?
Same problem here...thoughts anyone?
@@brennandc was my ebp sensor
Sorry I missed this message man. Glad you got it figured out though
@@austinhernandez1274 Did you replace the pigtail and the pipe too or just the sensor?
Would any of these issues cause the truck to not turn on after driving ?
No that is not something that would happen. Is your truck not starting after you drive, but will if you give it time to cool off? What is your truck doing I'm happy to help try and figure it out with you
If you have straight piped the truck will the ebp sensor even matter/read anything?
Yes it will. It depends on the tuning. Some read it other go to an inferred value, but changing the exhaust won't change if the vehicle reads it or not
Thanks for the reply. I have an early 03 that’s been giving me constant issues. When the truck is at idol, like sitting at a stop light, the rpms just start surging up and back down and the truck feels like it’s going to die.
Would vgt solenoid cause this? Had diagnostic ipr, icp, ficm all ok.
@@zachwhelton2708 did you ever find out what the issue was I’m having same issue!
So you are dropping rpm very low I take it?
@@six0bros it’s when I’m at an idol. Like at a stop light or if I’m sitting in truck for 15-20min. My scan gauge shows the vgt numbers going up and down when the surging happens. I have no ebp readings which I assumed was because of being straight piped.
Maybe a bad vgt sensor. I had it at the shop recently and had no low oil pressure and truck would not start so they cleaned low pressure valve and also said my ipr was fine too. But it’s still doing the idol surging between 4-800 rpms.
Just did a lot of work on my 6.0 no turbo sound at idle but builds up to 30 lbs when accelerating. Even at maybe 10 mph it’s at 1-2 psi if accelerating. But again, only has the whistle when accelerating. None when idle. Any ideas?
are you running any tunes in your truck? did it have a whistle before all the work? have you checked your vgt duty cycle to see what your turbo is trying to do at idle, and does it drive pretty good or does it fell "off"
@@six0bros just running a bullydog shift on the fly tuner, and I mostly keep it in performance for better MPG. I honestly don’t remember if it had the whistle at idle before or not, I put a cold air intake on it and changed the MAF during all the work (which was an oil cooler change) it runs and drives great, I do notice sometimes when it shows 29 psi that it doesn’t really feel like 29 psi (if that makes sense)
Also, when I did the oil cooler I replaced all gaskets, and sensors in and around that area except for the ebp and the map also flushed coolant and installed a coolant filter kit, as well as the cai as stated above
@trisquickstricks it depends on the factory flash if it has whistle at idle or not. Some do some don't. Not sure if bullydog does or doesn't. I would return to stock to check. Sometimes air gets in the vgt solenoid area and can take a bit to get out of it. Also some tuners fool the boost reading and icp psi reading to get certain effects from the engine
@@six0bros ohhhhhhh that makes a lot of sense, I had no idea! Thanks so much!
I am building boost but no power in mine (05) it sounds like a fan as well, checked all piping, no leaks, sounds like it wants to spool normal then nope back to fan sound, when i start it up it dosent spool up imedatley either it does this every time, even before my issue started
What is boost, ebp, vgt duty cycle under load? I want to say the boots on the intercooler pipes are to blame. Specifically the one right off the turbo.
@@six0bros boost is normal on my factory gauge, 7-10 normal around 20 gettin it a little, as far as ebp, vgt cycle i cant say means as i dont have a programmer( wish i had one), i can say this upon startup everytime my vgt wont allow the turbo to spool for about 10-15 min when cold(faster when its cold outside due to my high rev), when its warm not too bad, i have unplugged the vgt when cold and plugged back in, no difference, it used to not bother when spooled up, but recently it acts like my veins wont open, they try to sometimes, i have a rebuild kit i havent installed yet, i plan to order a new y pipe as well so when i have the turbo off i can change that as well, all in all i want to narrow my problem down before i go all out
So the best way to help diagnosis this would be for an app called forscan and a obd2 Bluetooth. You can run it on your phone and a $7 obd2 Bluetooth plug off Amazon. I can get you an affiliate link if you want for the plug
That will help figure it out and keep cost low. I think forscan was like $5
i get boost in neutral up to 10 psi and go up to 30 when driving but no power and hogh egts
Are you running any tuning on the truck? What does your icp voltage do at WOT and can you maintain it also ipr, check ficm voltage, fuel pressure (which needs an external sensor) and also check for any boost leaks or exhaust leaks. It doesn't sound likely for leaks though. Low fuel pressure could cause some of your issues.
I had a problem with a new KC stage 2 turbo not actuating and it turned out to be a bad intake air temperature sensor. Also a bad coolant sensor will cause turbo problems as well.
A bad intake temp sensor will definitely mess with turbo performance. Just like a maf sensor will too. I haven't heard or experienced the bad coolant temp yet but thanks for the heads up. I always try and fix things that I know are wrong even if I don't see the correlation to an issue
I have a 2003 it shuts off when I go into passing gear around 60 70 mph change IPR ICP any ideas
I didn't do it until about 2 days after I cut off the cat and muffler
The exhaust work shouldn't cause any issues. What is your ipr% at warm idle and the match icp voltage
just put a new ICP last night and it still did it Ipr runs idle warmed up 22
I'll try to send a video of what it does
czcams.com/video/RJERd_qFzmg/video.html
Hey @6.0 bros I’m having that p0132b code and I’ve cleaned the turbo replaced the map hose and I have a new intake on the way, I’ve noticed that my vgt is opening and closing all the way it does act a little weird, and I’ve noticed that I don’t have that 6.0 whistle when idling I still have a cat could that cat be clogged and I’m just barley getting around 18psi of boost. Any suggestions
Are you getting a back pressure reading at all?
How did the unison ring look where it is notched for the vgt plunger
How do I get a back pressure reading, I have the sct live tuner. And the unison ring looked good
Download the app forscan it's great and cam use on your phone. You will need a Bluetooth obd2 adapter. I'll get you an affiliate link to one. On there it will have the ebp desired and actual
Sct doesn't read back pressure correctly
I have a 2006 6.0L power stroke brand new stock turbo with the wicked wheel from thoroughbred diesel check all my sensors my clamps houses no leaks no restriction can’t make more than 10 pounds of boost.
Have you checked fuel pressure? What caused you to replace the turbo?
@@six0bros Fuel pressure is all good have the blue spring kit no check engine light codes been hooked up to the computer at the shop everything’s working flawlessly runs good can’t get more than 10 pounds of boost
Replace the turbo because EGT‘s we’re getting high and no boost and from my research with 150,000 miles original turbo everyone said time to replace the turbo.
Do you have a gauge to your fuel pressure though? Did you check the tube that runs from your intake manifold to your map sensor?
@@six0bros fuel pressure 56psi at idle and 49psi full throttle all hoses plugs censors been replaced all Ford motorcraft parts all filters fluids been changed replace fuel filters every oil change and oil bypass filter every 5000 miles
Have you tried the bd screamer turbo?
I have not. I like the company bd though. The exhaust manifolds and y pipe are top notch. I imagine their turbos are as well. Indo always recommend my sponsor turbotimeusa.com/SIX0BROS this is an affiliate link. But should give you 5% off performance turbos. Or just use my code six0bros for the same deal.
@@six0bros I was just at their site. Considering the 11 blade velocity. Which do you have?
I run their dual plane wheel with the velocity port. Also they have upgraded their turbo since I put mine on. I do have a review of it but mine is a 66mm turbo. For most people I recommend the 11 blade because it will have better drive ability the single plane wheel spools a little faster down low. The dual plane I run has better flow up top. It isn't a huge difference but there is a slight difference. All the feedback I have gotten from subscribers running the 11 blade has been very positive. Even the 64mm turbos in general the feedback has been amazing.
@@six0bros Thanks for information. aprreciate your time
No problem. Happy to help
Is there a good quality turbo, without the Variable, that works?
I’m Not looking for 5,000 hp,…..500hp would be fine (kill devil heads of course)….
Mild build……but More Importantly, Reliable Power!!
Any info is appreciated.
Thanks
I just personally don't think non vgt setups are worth it for 500 hp. They are expensive to get nice turbos and the mounting kit and y pipe. Is your turbo on its way out? I don't mean to hate on your plan. I just think the vgt for 500 hp is a great spot. My turbo sponsor just released a s300 turbo for the 6.0 but you'll need the mounting kit. I would highly recommend turbotimeusa.com stage 2 turbo. They are a sponsor but here is an affiliate code six0bros for 5% off. Vgt turbos have gotten much more reliable since the original vgt for the 6.0 there are a lot of changes
I haven’t got any truck yet, other than a 2015 150. I’ve been looking at Everything about the 6.0 for years. Getting ready to pull the trigger. Looks like I’ll be spending around $14k for something under 200k miles. I just have to be ready to put in $12k to fix the 6.0’s issues.
I appreciate all the insight and help.
Thank you.
No problem man. I know my brother is getting ready to sell his 6.0 and from what he has told me that sounds about right
Mine has a scream not a bearing noise but a scream sound between 1/4 & 1/2 throttle and some lag in first gear
Any chance you get record it and send it to my Instagram 6 0hbros
@@six0bros I can try
@@six0bros I sent video of the sound to your ig dm
I'll check now man
Did you send it to 6.0hbros? Because I didn't get anything
I’ve got the P0299 under-boost, I think my vanes are stuck because I can’t change it with the scanner. 🤔
What does the ecm command the vgt duty cycle to? It does sound like it may be stuck. If your ecm is commanding it to 85% or 15% then you most likely have a stuck or worn unison ring
Thank you very much I will look at vgt duty cycle also someone took out the egr and just put a plate over the hole, I don’t understand how it runs as good as it does like that🤔
@dannmann17 they likely have some type of block off plate on the egr or removed it as well. I have thought more about this have you double checked everything I talk about here as far as exhaust leaks or boost leaks
I couldn’t find any leaks, I’m going to pull the truck back in today and look at the VGT
@dannmann17 let me know how it goes and if it fixes the issue
I’m have issues also with my 6.0 2003 250 I’m having a major oil leak can’t seem to find but I sure it’s coming from the oil dip stick housing or might be from the valve cover oil breather but I was also having a turbo leak but the person fixing it fucked it so I’m in this position
I would definitely fox things you know are the issue. Like the ccv leaking which does happen normally a new o ring and you're good. When you say turbo leak oil still or exhaust leak?
It’s hard to explain it’s just to many shit I think it’s the pvc indicator I might be wrong but I’m sure it’s all that oil dip stick valve cover gaskets and the pvc one
What about blue and white smoke?
Are you losing any coolant? Is your tailpipe wet? What's it smell like?
Also any codes if you try and read them even if the check engine light isn't on
I am losing coolent. No codes. Turbo has oil in it vgt is constant 85% and I found a doubled up injector copper seal ring.
I got lots of lag no coolant loss and blue smoke. Turbo codes lit up like forth of July. does that cause blue smoke?
@@jessedrewes5376 did you ever figure out what the problem was? Mines doing the same thing...
Had every other problem but turbo not one lmfao 🤣
I'm pulling this turbo probably tomorrow or Sunday
Say you buy the truck for 15k. You have to put another 10k into it to hope it’s reliable. I’ve had two of them. And when you spend that much and then it brakes. It’s emotionally devastating. These trucks nickel and dime to death..
I have heard people have repeat issues but typically if it's fixed correctly the first time it won't brake again for a long long time
Choose your house of cards to drive no matter
True. But if you NEED a diesel, the only thing you can do to fight back is to "power learn" your vehicles systems as hard as you can.
Or pay a shop and hope they know what they're doing.
my son took off my muffler and Cat. off my 6.0
lol how do you like the sound?
@@six0bros it is not to bad. He turned it down just behind the cab. you can really hear the 10 blade turbo
Just ridiculous how many turbo you have to do inside
32 months or whatever... Bologna
I'm not sure what you're saying here?
So I went back and started watching this video to see. I agree it was ridiculous. It's a shame how some people operate. Some of the issue was he didn't go to a good place and had people that didn't fully know what they were doing working on the truck. There were some random issues I fixed on it. He sold the truck about a year later but it was running good still after. As for the number of turbos prior I was taking his word for it.