Fixing CHEAPEST amazon TIG pedal to work with ROHR WSME-200
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- čas přidán 19. 11. 2022
- I've been thinking about getting a pedal for my TIG welder for some time. This one was reasonably priced, but as shipped doesn't work with my welder. This is me fixing that.
Susemse tig pedal: amzn.to/3hViNhB
Basically:
As delivered the wiring on mine in the 3 pin plug is:
1) blue
2) yellow
3) green
You need to rotate them all one place to become:
1) yellow
2) green
3) blue
Music from epidemicsound - Jak na to + styl
A DPDT switch can be wired to the pot to allow for reverse ramping of the current. There are times when initiating the arc at the preset amps is handy for bump welding. I added that feature when I made my pedal a few years ago. Thanks for posting the video of your pedal... it was very informative to see inside.
I like this idea, I may have to make that mod at some point. cheers
I have same pedal, using it with VEVOR TIG. Measured the voltage coming from the machine - it is just 5v. It probably comes from the controller board. One problem I found is that in some positions of the main regulator, pressing the pedal reduces current. I guess the solution is to install an opamp between the main regulator potentiometer and the foot activated potentiometer.
Thank You for this video. I have the same pedal...on a Vevor TIG. Essentially the pedal is wired backwards, like on yours, so i guess the pedal is wrong, and not the machines. The second you step on the pedal it goes full blast, and the current is less the more you depress. I could not find the proper pinout anywhere, so Instead of rewiring, I just flipped the linear pot on the inside, upside down, and set the Rotary pot in front to what would normally be the "max" position...so i just made new labels for "min" and "max"... that knob ends up backward from what you would expect, but the pedal worked without any resoldering. Now that i know this I will rewire.
I'm glad this was useful. It is weird that the pedal comes doing the opposite of what you'd expect. Perhaps there is some reason for it that's just not obvious.
Mine was the same, with the black wire not even connected, I reworked all the soldering. I opted to alter the pin out in the cable rather than the unit its self. The cable soldering was better, but not up to speck.
Its certainly one of those things that if you buy it knowing this stuff needs doing then it's not a bad deal. But really has no business being sold as a ready to use.
Good video... But to clear any confusion, with any sensors or switches their only fed reference voltages and it knows what's it sent and it looks for what comes back... And hence the small wiring inside that unit... Imagine that taking 200A??? Or even better 140A??? It's usually 5V but could be different...
I would love to see what setting you use for different jobs; I just ordered the same welder.
Did the wire colours on the 5 pin plug match the wire colours on the foot pedal thanks
Very interesting. I've been looking at that for the time I shell out for a really expensive TIG welder. I really do not like the design. The box should (and could easily) be wedge shape. So I will make my own particularly now they have shown how to make it without a pedal driven rack on to a rotary potentiometer's pinion. Could you post a circuit diagram with a value for both potentiometers please?
Yeah, I think making your own would be pretty simple and as you say, you could make the over all thing smaller. If you look at the top comment on the Amazon item linked in the description someone has already posted a circuit diagram. Looks like they're both 10k pots.
@@MakerGeek Cheers. Is there a link in your video?
@@MakerGeek Many thanks, I now have all the information I need.
i maid a TIG, welder out of a old bantam oxford welder 240 buy fitting 200 amp rectifier to the feed coils 240 in & 200 amps out. providing sufficient current to TIG weld . this means i can tern a 415 volt stick welder into a TIG . to on house man's . les
Could one of them pedals be modified to work on and old miller syncrowave 250 acdc 12 pin connection ??
Sorry for the slow response, i've not been getting notifications. but also I'm afraid I have no idea. I assume that all such equipment works in a broadly similar fashion. as @gorillaxrich mentioned in another comment, they basically get sent a low voltage reference value and the machine measures the return value as a ratio to set the relative power. the hard part is knowing which pins are supposed to be doing what to get the wiring right.
Wouldn't it be better to bypass the manual adjustment and just set the amp limit on the machine? Would be easier than bending down to change. BTW, mine just arrived this morning but too bloody cold in the workshop to set it up.
Good question. I suppose it could work either way. I guess maybe if you have the pedal setup away from the machine having the local dial is useful. But I can't see why it would matter to bypass it
@@MakerGeek are you using the knob on the pedal? Think I'll shift the cable outlet to the back. Seems odd they chose to put it at the front of the box.
Well, I've not really had time to do much testing with it. But I'll see how I get on.
@@MakerGeek finally got around to wiring up my pedal. Got some 5 core from Amazon and put a cable gland in the back. Only had a couple of test runs but I'm starting to regret not getting a pedal much sooner.
Nice. It does make a difference. Now I just wish I had the space for a much bigger welding table :-). Seems like I'm spending all my time at the moment fighting the constrains of my space
Music levels compared to your voice are totally obnoxiously loud. Consider using sound level balancer or do it manually.
Something I've learned through CZcams is that different systems/setups can render audio quite differently. So what should fine on my system is rubbish for other people. One day I'll get it figured out
hi did my comment get deleted
Not that I recall, when did you make it? Did it include a link because CZcams trends to treat that as spam by default
@@MakerGeek Hi thanks for coming back to me, i included an email address - so thats probably why, im having trouble setting this pedal up - i have the same setup as you the rohr welder - i got the pedal of amazon (knowing i would have to re wire) ive followed the amazon reviews and your video, but im having no joy ( ive tested the 10k pot and 1k with multimeter and working) i think the 5 pin wire going into the unit may be wired differently on mine ( is there anyway you can strip the end and tell me the colour sequence going into the unit? (thanks)
So did you rotate the position of the three wires on the control plug? Basically it's just low/high and current position, so you should be able to just switch them until you get the desired behaviour. When you say you isn't working, does that mean no response at all? Have you checked all the connections? I had one wire that just was not attached
@@MakerGeek yeah - just took the lid of the rohr and hey presto the connector leading from where the 3 pin plugs into the welder was lying unconnected to the circuit board !!! - hopefully get some action going here shortly once recheck the pedal wiring! many thanks
@@Crautomotive i just received my rohr 250 today with that pedal. I also had that same plug disconnected when i opened it. If they zip tied those magnets or choke things they wouldn't wobble the plugs undone in transit. I bet its cost them a lot in returns.