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I bought a broken welder from Amazon and fixed it saving £££ - Röhr WSME-250 250amp AC/DC Review
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- čas přidán 29. 05. 2021
- ** EXPAND THIS DESCRIPTION FOR MORE INFORMATION**
Watch Joshua De lisle AWCB walk you through the creation process with his welded and hand forged works of Art and Luxury items.
In this episode we unbox and review the Röhr WSME-250 250amp AC/DC “4 in 1” Machine from Amazon. It turned out to be brocken dispite being in 'Acceptable condition'... Watch how I fixed mine saving £££.
We used:
Pure Argon gas shielding
4043 - 1.6mm Aluminium welding rods twisted to form custom 3.2mm rods
6082 grade Aluminium flat bar
Great deal on 200 amp stick welder: www.banggood.c...
Amazon Affiliate links UK:
Röhr WSME-250 - amzn.to/3uswntq
Foot pedal - amzn.to/2SFOtLa
White Tungsten - amzn.to/2RYUSB8
Push-in connector 8mm - 1/4" - amzn.to/3uA0ajM
Welding rods - 4043 - 1.6mm Aluminium - amzn.to/2R9iWBa
Amazon Affiliate links USA:
Sorry not yet available :( ...
For latest news and insights visit our instagram page here:
/ delisledesign
FaceBook page here (I'm not on it enough to answer questions on FB):
/ delisledesign
great review, I'd be interested to find out how you get the opportunity to purchase returned equipment to buy - do tell!
On the Amazon listing there is sometimes a box with used/new options. On that I got mine with 'acceptable condition' for £270. I was still able to return it if I wished also. I like it and feel I've got a good deal just using common sense to fix it. Cheers J
I just checked. There is one under the option 'save with used - condition good' for £339
google Amazon Warehouse, they have a page that shows all the returned items you can buy
@@joshuadelisle CHEAP ! I was considering buying an aging Kemppi LHF 3 AC add on unit that would take its power from my big 250A oil cooled Oxford AC arc welder.However after watching your video I'm not sure what to do now. New cheapest Chinese AC TIG, or high quality but old Kemppi add on with the bomb proof Oxford power supply. The Kemppi is on ebay for £350
@@johnallen8680 go for Kempii. Great machine for that price. It has its nigles this Chinese one but it's paid for it self and working fine. I got a superflex CK torch which makes a difference. Cheers J
You may want to consider supporting the circuit board that is already bending towards the bottom of the welder. Looks like the bend will be breaking the printed circuit traces after a few welding cycles.
Good observation. I haven't but I will. Cheers J
I have had one of these for about ten years only problem i have had is where the pcb flexes it broke the connection of one of the IGBT's
After a bit of experimentation I have fond the best way to set the amps for the pedal is to set tig/ MMA switch to MMA press the pedal with your hand and set amps using the dial on the back of the pedal then switch to tig the pedal will then work from 10 amps to your set amps at full pedal
Good idea. Cheers John. I add a little down slope too so I can manually pulse it bellow 10amps for super thin stuff.
I did hear from a very experienced stick welder, a positive ground is better for over-head welding (your results may vary)
It depends on the electrode. Some only work in certain polarities. Switching polarity will change the depth and spread of the arc. Cheers J
Go for sky blue 2% lanthanated electrodes as they work on everything and can maintain a point on Aluminium.The whole ball thing is old school, no longer strictly necessary and can lead to excess arc wander. If you were unaware, avoid the red thoriated electrodes as they're radioactive and the dust from grinding is particularly bad to inhale.
I'm sure you have seen some mention of not needing to ball the end of the tungsten on the newer inverter style tig welders..but if it was the older transformer type welder, it is needed to ball the end of the tungsten to use on aluminum..maybe worth mentioning most people use the dark/medium blue tungsten electrodes that are basically the old orange ones for basically everything and grey if you like a longer lasting electrode and purple or pink which is a rare element mix for specialty work..the lime green 2% seems to work great too..the old red tungsten is radioactive and is dangerous to grind and when it gets vaporized.. nothing someone would want to have around the house..
I purchased a rohr tig welder after viewing your mig welder video. It's only a 160amp dc machine but it has hf start and works pretty well.
That will be Great. I still have my other DC TIG at hand. The benefits of this machine is AC, foot pedal and pulse settings. Your TIG will be fine for most applications. Cheers J
Great video, waiting for the follow up! I had the same problem with the same model- huge blobs of solder on those copper wires, copied your cure with the pieces of insulation sleeving, and now I can actually adjust the amps- I wasn't getting anything on the digital display, and that works now too 👌
Well done. I've done a lot of aluminium welding since. Coming soon. Cheers J
For anyone buying this machine I'll give a quick review, as I have this exact machine.
More than likely you will find issues with this machine, but none that are hard to fix if you have some knowledge of electronics.
I bought mine and the seller stated the display wasn't working. Sure enough it wasn't. I opened the machine up expecting to replace the digital display but luckily everything looked quite solid, except for 2 white connector blocks that had shaken loose or possibly were never put in properly. Everything works fine now. Really lovely welds on steel. Nice DC pulse settings...however the frequency dial reads from 0.5 to 300...which in my opinion, doesn't go as low as 0.5. I think it's 2hz at a guess (twice per second). Shame because I would've liked a nice slow 1 pulse per second or slower, but hey... I'm toying with modifying that part. One disappointing thing though is that the AC Tig frequency cannot be adjusted. Only the balance (called clean area width on this machine). I'd have liked it if the frequency dial work on both AC and DC pulse modes, but it doesn't and is stated that way in the manual so I know mines the way it should be. Not sure what the frequency is set to for the AC Tig internally, but I'm not really an aluminium welder anyway, so haven't used it much. Is it a nice welder??? Yes...Is it worth the full £390??? No. I paid £200 for mine and overall I'm happy. I'm more worried about longevity to be honest. My old kempii machine was a transformer Tig/stick welder and was solid as a rock. Sadly toooo heavy and not as fancy.
Good information. Cheers J
Next time you are inside the machine I would solder the ends of those copper bus bars to the large pads on the PCB. Looks like they have only soldiered them on the underside
Around 6:45 - "Trust me, I haven't got a clue of what I'm doing!" - Hahaha, join the club. It's all about 'having a go' - Good job!!
Hope to see more video's on this Tig I've just bought the same welder this was a very helpful video for me I've never Tig welded before
I've already been filming lots using it. I recommend buying the foot pedal if you're new to Tig. Look at my video on the cheap Tig pro torch also for handy tips. Cheers J
Where you separate the copper bars that are "accidentally" connected with solder... you can clearly see that they are already connected together at the bolt/lug...
Hi Joshua, Really nice video, very helpful. I am a gas welder and have been for forty years, but I have just bought one of these machines to play with and everything seems to work but having taken the top off for a peep inside; there are blobs of solder bridging the copper bars just like yours and the spark gap thingy for the pulse is not very well lined up, I don't like the silly little spade connectors for the mains lead either.
I find with a lot of these Chinese things that all the components are usually there to make a good one out of, so it is a bit like a kit without instructions really.
I have a good foot pedal from another machine which I would like to convert so it would be really helpful if you could note the values of those two pots. in your pedal for us.
Thank you, Jon
Good catch on the loose inductor and the bus shorts. You must know something about electronics since you knew there is no polarity in an inductor and correctly diagnosed to backwards pot in the foot pedal. Well done.
Experienced maybe but not educated.... Cheers J
everyone I have ever seen tig weld has done the same as I was taught. we sharpen the tungsten on a bench Grinder to a sharp point. that blunt balled end looks so weird to me, but hay if it works for you, more power to you.
I would do a sharp point if it's a red tip for normal steel. On aluminium it's slightly different. I understand more modern machines don't need so much balling because you can change the frequency of the htz and retain a point. Balling gives fine control of the arc with simple machines like this one. I recommend 6061.com which is a channel for aluminium welding. Cheers J
Always great to see a new video from your good self.
Thank you Tom. I hope it's any good to you. It felt it was a bit rushed and incomplete for me... more to come if you want more. Thank you always for your kind support. Cheers J
@@joshuadelisle as a subscriber ill watch whatever you make .. its part of the deal .like many here we trust in tote views and your content in return we subscribe as a form of support for the time and effort you put into things .. that's how I see it and i'm sure i'm not the only one ... little things help is all in these strange times... regards t
@@tomthompson7400 your a real blessing. I hope to continue to produce more and better content for you. All the very best
@@tomthompson7400 very well said, that's what I think as well! :)
Very interesting
as I'd like to upgrade my current machine because its "scratch start" and DC only .
Im spending more time grinding tungstens than welding at the moment but Im loving the way tig is so much less messy.
The tungsten last even longer with post flow which my other machine doesn't have. I still like how small and light my other machine is and will use it to do site work. This machine is big and heavy but awesome. Cheers J
The problem was the 3rd one you fixed. The excess soler was shorting as you said. I think the previous buyer pulled the input plug out because they did not look at the fault. The other problem was probably just very poor attachment and came off with the shipping.. Good luck with your future!
I just bought all the items for the V1 respirator yesterday. I should have watched this first haha.
V1 is still great. V2 is different both have plus and minus. I'm still doing a few mods to V2. V2 is really for welding only so V1 is more ideal for wood work.
Glad to see you using bootlace ferrules on the wires. Good call. You will be rewarded with improved reliability.
Thank you David. I try my best if the knowledge is there. Cheers J
With the solder short problem I would suggest copper wick and flux to properly remove the excess solder. Any soldering questions feel free to DM me though timezone is EST
Thank you. Although now that I look back at the footage the rods meet at the ends so it wasn't necessary after all and I think it was just the pedal that needed doing. I appreciate your help thank you. All the very best. Cheers J
Thank you for many excellent video,s, this one was of particular interest as I have one of these welders and have always felt it wasn,t working correctly, off out now to have a look at the innards and hopefully fix any problems, regards Doc COX.
Hi Joshua, I was so pleased to discover you're video. I bought one of these (full price) and never opened it for 7 months, (covid orientated) opened it yesterday and of course it has problems, at first only power switch illuminated, cover off played and poked and then green power light, fans etc. but 20 to 30 seconds and cuts out, was set for arc. I would therefore be very grateful for a copy of the circuit diagram that you have.
regards
Joe Paton
Hi Joe. I don't have a diagram but if you contact the seller you should be able to gain some information. If it was just the stick welding option you've used have you tried turning the arc force setting up or is it cutting out completely?
@@joshuadelisle Hi Joshua, it's cutting out completely and no response from seller. Its probably not much, maybe a dodgy thermocouple. Many thanks for your reply
Regards
Joe
@@derekpaton2775 I'm sorry I can't help very much. I'm not that knowledgeable on the electronics. The thermal couple sounds like a good start to test. All the very best. Cheers J
@@joshuadelisle thanks for your input Joshua
Very interesting, I haven't even heard about this 'Clean area width'. I've welded aluminium many times before but never saw this setting at any machine. Looks like I've learned something new today ^^
It's probably labbeled different on other machines. I've seen 'AC balance' on other machines. It's often called cleaning action by some. Cheers J
More awsomeness!
I think you’re mini apprentice should feature a little more, little man might be able to make sense of safety data😂
Cheers J
Always nice to get a good refresher. :) cheers Joshua!
Thank you Luke. Cheers J
Many thanks for sharing I am hoping to get a mig / tig machine at some stage cheers
Thank you Paul. Cheers J
According to the manual, if you are on AC, pulse duty and pulse frequency do not work. Only if you are on DC (pulse) they are activated.
I learned the settings from you video, impressive
Thank you so much. All the very best. Cheers J
thank you sir, i didnt know some setups
Thank you for watching. Cheers J
I have the same one to set amps for tig set to MMA set amps then switch to tig
Good idea. Cheers J
Excellent video, it’s always useful to refresh ones memory on settings.
What are the little tips you put on the wires?, I’d be interested to know for when I’m wiring motorcycles.
Cheers
It's this ferrule kit: amzn.to/34yPxn2
They make a better and safer connection. Cheers J
Brilliant video thank you very much❤👀👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Thank you. Cheers J
That welder looks like a copy of my stamos,those sneaky little Chinese lol
Well done clear and to the point
Thank you. I'm glad you like my videos. Cheers J
Hi joshua. I just found your video. I bought the same welder and as a cosmetic return from Union Mart UK. Same case damage and a scratch but all working. You are spot on with your comments especially about not being able to see the amperage in TIG. Unfortunately i have not had argon to use it much (waiting for a bottle) I have used CO2 on steel to try it's functions. I wonder if you can tell me how low pulse goes on the machine and the best way to set it? Correct me if I'm wrong but the lowest 0.6 equals a pulse every two seconds. I get nowhere near that. Can't tell you what now I will wait for gas to arrive. I found the MMA or stick was good. BTW great and informative video, Thanks!
Thank you David. I've not use the pulse function much but I think it is 10amps the lowest it goes. I've mainly been using it with a pedal and manually pulsing it if needed with a little downslope and post flow.
@Joshua hi mate any chance of an update on how this welder is doing
It's still good, I did this project with it : czcams.com/video/HdwH1eehdAo/video.html
Would love to know how it stick welds?
I know you said you bought this as a damaged return but the main live and neutral connections not being connected, components hanging off the board and the foot pedal seemingly wired in reverse. If this was a welder I was looking at making money from using it would have gone straight back as the unknown of potential future failure and down time would be too high of a risk. A good indepth video but this would have been returned at the first issue if I was relying on the machine to make a living.
Hi David. Under normal circumstances I would have done exactly as you say and returned it. Sometimes cosmetic damage is just cosmetic damage but in this case it was actually broken... I decided to keep it for 3 reasons, 1st it was a lot cheaper than buying new. 2nd it's a good learning opportunity to understand the components and how to fix it and 3rd made a fairly interesting video for other people to see. Cheers J
Arc force is only in stick mode. Basically it helps to keep the arc going
Fantastic video as always quick question is it possible to wire the amperage indicator screen to stay on for tig settings
Thank you. It maybe possible but I wouldn't know how to re wire what's there. There are amp numbers on the dial itself but probably inaccurate. It's not needed anyway if you use the pedal as you're going by the puddle size instead of a pre set. Cheers J
Thanks mate I was just wandering I’m new to tig so I’d like to be able to see the numbers but as you have already mentioned that they do show when there is full contact
@@bigmacsnoobselectronicsrep8032 yes if you activate the arc it will show up. All the very best. Cheers J
Great video many thanks
I got one of these returns but found inside at the back 2 cylinders green with red wires 9cm long and 2.8 round
One is broken. Have you any idea what they are called The only writing seems to be DC20-50-320 RJ
Hi . I think it's the same type of high frequency parts in this guy's video: czcams.com/video/VAIsQbIuIUQ/video.html I think this guy will be able to help you better as I'm not 100% on electronics but I like to play with them.
Cutting the solder was pointless as the wires you "seperated" are still bridged at the front near the bolts, likely you have moved or bumped something back into place allowing the machine to adjust amps properly. Only reason I dont think your fix solved this is mine is the same where the wires are bridged yet I still have full control over amps and other settings, granted im on the 200amp version.
Just some caution... Amazon delivers so fast that those quite beefy inductors might still contain enough joules to kill you... and it is made in china after all.. so beware when handling these units with no protection (bare hands).. It is not because it is cheaply made or broken that it will not kill you... current doesn't ask, it just seeks ground. So, wear safety gloves, use insulated screwdrivers, short the capacitors, ground the machine (chassis to earth ground), ground yourself, etc. Btw... IGBT's are not necessarily higher quality than MOSFETS, they are insulated gate bipolar transistors vs. Metal Oxide Field Effet Transistors... Instead of quality we could say that they are designed for higher power handling (Watts, voltage x current); but you can find low quality IGBTs on the market and very high quality MOSFETs... Anyways, thats a nice find and I will be checking amazon more... thanks for the nice video!
Thank you. That's great advice. Cheers J
@@joshuadelisle No problem, hope I don't sound patronizing, I am talking by experience, I am the first one that you used to see handling a grinder with one hand wearing no protection, cutting some steel... a real man lol ... a real d**b man. I am still alive, gladly, and today I always step back and think about what could go wrong before acting... I may look less manly and my work takes more time, but hey, I am alive for the people I love :) I just wanted to remind the people around. (Sometimes we forget or don't really know how close we play to the other side... and when things happen with high currents, grinders, heavy machinery, explosive gases, it is usually too late.)
@@elbart100 your experience is appreciated and anyone wise will listen. Cheers J
What was the make and model of the foot pedal as I need to do the same..
Should be a link in the description. Cheers J
An off-topic question: I see an Evolution saw in the backdrop of the video. Is the saw anything good? I am asking mostly about the metal-cutting (or universal) saw-disk, not about the sawing machine.
The metal saw is great and fast for the first few cuts but then blunts very quickly soon after and the blades are expensive. I did a video on my new band saw recently which I consider better for cost effectiveness but it's not as fast. Cheers J
@@joshuadelisle Thanks for the answer. I was considering buying an Evolution disk, but was afraid of exactly that - fast blunting.
On that machine you shouldn’t have to ball up the tungsten, it works better to sharpen the tungsten and turn up the hertz to around 120 then it gives you a better puddle and it barely rounds the tip of the tungsten
Thank you James. Balling is all I've ever known. I'll try out your method. Cheers J
@@joshuadelisle with today’s technology with the machines you can actually concentrate your arc better by having a smaller tip as long as you can turn up the hertz, an old Miller machine was set at 60 hertz but my machine goes from 40 to 400 hertz and the cleaning action also has to do with the shape of the tungsten
Hi both, I have this exact machine and just for the record in case anyone else is buying it for AC Tig welding aluminium, the frequency cannot be adjusted in AC mode. Only the frequency in DC pulse mode can be adjusted. I'm not sure what frequency it is set at internally for the AC, but it sounds like 60hz. Definitely not 120hz. The buzz is too low.
Thanks
Thank you. Cheers J
great video and explanation of controls. I had this one on my shortlist, but seems you didn't do any later videos on it ? Is it still working ? Would you still reckon it'd a decent starter machine for playing around with ali tig ?
Hi. Yes all my TIG welding since was with this TIG. The pond cover video is a good example. Cheers J
You could make that into a pancake shield let the little man play pipe liner
Ha ha. Maybe. Cheers J
Hi. I've got the exact same 'generic' welder (Supper200) as yours, but the colours are exactly swapped. i.e. where yours is black mine is orange, and orange is black. haha But, I'm curious to know how you were 'knowingly?' able to buy a damaged/non working item from Amazon.
Regards Mark in the UK
p.s. You didn't mention anything about plasma cutting, but mine was supplied with a TIG foot pedal AND plasma torch - which I have used. Only personally done stick welding with this machine atm, but seeing this video is whetting my appetite for Ali and stainless, which is actually what I bought it for.
p.p.s. seen your reply below re' how you bought a 'soiled' item.
Thank you so much. I don't think I can plasma with mine as I don't see any ports for air or the plasma torch. All the very best. If you want me to explain anymore feel free to ask anytime. Cheers J
Anyone had any trouble with the andeli tig250 from e-bay ? Mine died after 3 hours of overall usage, had the amps up to 150 . It won't power back on after blowing the fuse & tripping the breaker off . Still waiting for a reply from the seller. £630 is a lot of money for 3 hours use
I can imagine.
New sub here fantastic video as I’m looking into getting one of those tig welders
Thank you so much. Lots more coming soon. Cheers J
can you use a normal tig lead with a dinse connector with these cheap welders?
I use an adaptor for my superflex. Cheers J
When did Jenson Button start welding?
Hi Joshua
I got one of these WSME 200. Its a bit different from the one you fixed but with the same name, so it cant be much of a difference after all.
Since I got it, it has never worked. They offered me a reduction in price. I said ok, thought I would be able to fix it. But here I am a year later.
It pops the fuse when I turn the switch on. And then a sec later the machine boots up for another sec, but only with the power that it managed to obtain before it was gone.
Do you have any idea what the problem might be?
I would appreciate your help
Hi Brian. Have you looked inside to see any 'anomalies'? Check all the connections and any soldered parts that maybe shorting. Sometimes the relays are broken and you can check if they are bulging. Let me know. All the very best. Cheers J
Great video, Josh! Quick question for you, if you don’t mind: There is a grounding pin on the back of my machine - which just arrived a couple of days ago. I usually don’t bother grounding the machines - as I assume the grounding will happen via the standard 3 pin 13 A plug, but since the manual is asking to ground the machine via that pin, I was wondering if I need to do that as well, given I’m assuming the 3 pin plug is grounded already? Also, do I need to have my metal workbench contact the ground or be isolated e.g. with rubber feet, if I am going to be attaching the grounding clamp to the workbench instead of the workpiece? Thanks a lot!
Hi. You'll want a 32amp plug to the correct breaker rather than the 13amp fused plug as you'll just pop fuses th moment you do anything substantial. The earth is connected to the ground in the wire and to the casing but in the event of a cable being severed it's a good Idea to earth the machine also to an earth rod closely connected to the workshop so any power in the capacitors can earth and not shock you. As far as I know all earth's can be joined but I would consult with our electrician anyway to be sure. Cheers J
@@joshuadelisle Brilliant! Thanks a lot! Can’t wait for the next video!
@@Mahdi-bb4hg thank you. Cheers J
Great video I have the same welder and just bought the same foot pedal and I thought it didn't seem to be working right I think I have same problem what is the other pot for
Awesome. The other pot is like a big step control and the pedal is a small step control. Mine is set on 10 but bellow that it peeks earlier as I press the pedal. If that makes sense. I just played around until it worked.
@@joshuadelisle thanks for the reply I've swapped the 2 wires around and it now works but I noticed I only get about 100 amps full bore on the pedal?
@@MrKevinlarge hmmmm... I take it you tried adjusting the front pot ?
Yes and made sure the internal pot was at full travel when foot right down
@@MrKevinlarge have you tried turning up the amps on the machine and making sure any other nob is turned down?
I have one of these good value for money
Glad to know you are pleased with yours. Have you explored all it can do? Is there anything you would like me to expand upon? Cheers J
@@joshuadelisle I've welded copper with it that was fun but haven't done stainless but I'm just teaching myself with the help from people like yourself just a hobby thanks
I've bought the 200A version of this and it makes a horrible buzzingnoise when you hit the power switch, does yours do this?
No it doesn't. Are the leads connected right. It would buzz if using the stick welder. Cheers J
had the cover off, found some interesting things
@@joshuadelisle
Any updates on how this machine worked out?
Check out my aluminum pond cover build. I use it for the whole project. Cheers J
@@joshuadelisle just got the 200amp version. Having some issues with poor gas flow.
@@Micjoh what have you set up regulator wise and torch cup?
Using a hobby regulator and 2.2litre hobby argon bottle. The gas flow at the cup is very poor. Opened the machine to check for leaks and seems OK. Air solenoid connection seems OK.
@@Micjoh I would say it was the regulator. Those hobby bottles aren't worth it. You get like 100mm of weeks before they're empty.
Nice video ! I was thinking about buying this welder. Finally, did you find the foot pedal you were looking for? I would be interested.
Thank you. Foot pedal all working fine. Cheers J
Many thanks for the run through. Quick question, would you buy that welder at full price? (Or its smaller 200 amp brother).
I probably would as it was a good price to start with. It's great for aluminium although the pedal isn't working as precisely as I'm used to on more expensive machines but I can cope otherwise. Cheers J
@@joshuadelisle Many thanks for the feedback.
Hi I know it’s a stupid question but can argon bottles be used with this? I’m looking for an ac dc tig to learn on as I’ve a project that’s aluminium
Hi. Yes you can only use argon or helium mix with aluminium. Argon is best for stainless and pretty much all Tig welding. Cheers J
@@joshuadelisle thanks mate, I’ve just ordered the wsme-250 now, just need to learn how to use it 😂 any tips on a shopping list of things I’ll need to buy? Cheers Joshua
@@GaryTaylorvw you'll need some gas pipe and a regulator so you can see how much is in the bottle and what CFM it's producing. I believe the pipe ID should be 6mm. If you wet the back of your hand you want just enough gas to flow so you can feel it cool your hand 8-10cfm I think. A foot pedal is helpful for aluminium as you want high temp to start with because Ali is conductive but then you want to back down on the amps once to temperature otherwise it will all melt away. A stainless steel rotary brush is good for prepping the surface instead of sanding. Hope that helps. Cheers J
@@joshuadelisle thanks again Joshua, I’ll order some stuff today
I hope you are doing good, question have you updated plans for the power hammer?
Hi. Yes check out the description of this video: czcams.com/video/LEs-Nlakyrk/video.html cheers J
This device is built very poor! Just look at the bent PCB! Or the missing mechanical fixture for bigger components. And the writing "Qualität durch Forschung" implies "Made in Germany"- quality. Oh dear! Be VERY careful using this thing! It's dangerous! Thank you for sharing the superb video and my greatest restpect to you for what you're doing.
Thank you so much. It's definitely not great but it does work and has so far payed for itself and making good profit with it. All the very best. Cheers J
I’m a bit scared of using mine now
I love mine. I'm thinking of making an auto wire feeder for it so I can use it like a MIG now. Cheers J