Yes, thanks - but there are few important steps missing! I just changed both control arms on my 2002 xc70 and the hardest part is getting the arms back on the car. The problem is that there is no way to align both of the frame mounts with the ball joint bolt while the ball joint is still attached to the car. Remove the ball joints, attach the arm to the frame, insert the ball joint into the control arm, and then reattach the ball joint to the brake housing. this will save you hours of time!!
Thanks for this just purchased both front control arms and will be fitting this week. Never done this before, however ur video makes it look easy. I have a s60 t5. Can you do some videos on how to replace brakes, handbrake shoes, and service including draining oil, fitting oil filter, petrol filter, new spark plugs and ht leads for stage 0 tune prior to having the stage 1 remap. Thanks keep posting
Attempted this job today on my S60 basically the same much harder than it looks. I don't know what it isn't recommended to remove the sway bar end links. If you get control arm off at least on my car with they darn sway bar makes makes everything move and is hard to realign on the control arm once you get the new one attached to the frame. Actually pulled the CV axle out of its joint by mistake. Thankfully I found a freelance mechanic who helped me get it fixed. Last thing I will say is if you are going to go to the trouble of replacing the control arm you almost should really replace the ball joint as well. Nice starter video but does not describe the entire battle.
Absolutely. But then you need to take off the whole wheel assembly! And then you need a special press to get that ball joint on! I don't know why Volvo moved from the P80 bushing/ball joint control arm to this design.
BlastReadingSeries You can replace the ball joint and control arm together without a press. Its not the recommended way to go but I did it. Been two years and has been fine.
Nice, thanks for the reply. I was watching the video over at FCP and they had a fancy press to do that work... I suppose if you're careful you can do the work without that press.
@dsads7 my brother in law compressed the struts and coil springs that made it easier to manage too. took him half a day to replace right and let control arms.
Ummm... We had a ramp to use, boxes of tools galore and we still struggled - the impression here is that its about a ten minute job but its not - we ended up using spring compressors to compress the spring which is not mentioned here, to get it all back together. If anybody can come and show us, in the real world, quite how it's done using this same, stage by stage method as in this video, we would be thrilled. I'll put the kettle on now...
Yes, the last time your wheel alignment would have been done, it is more that possible that the control arm bushes had failed already. This means that the wheels would have been aligned with failed bushes and would have been off centre.
Tak pewnie też tak wymieniałem, tylko,że przy takiej wymianie często wychodzi z siebie przegub wewnętrzny i zaczynają się schody bo samochód jest unieruchomiony, bo albo uda się go umieścić z powrotem albo pozostaje kupno nowego. Powodzenia.
Great video. however I had bad strut bushing so the control arm didn't line up as easily as it showed on the video, after I jacked up both sides of the car and picked up a spring compression kit I was able to the new one on,
No way I could get that in the way he showed, I had to remove the bolts from the strut, then the knuckle was free to get it into the ball joint cup. Impossible otherwise. I used heavy Duty control arms, the bushings might be stiffer than the ones he used.
What exactly are those little things bolted on to the front of the control arms that he transfers from the old one to the new one at about the 3:30 mark in this video?
+DementedMako This might be a shot in the dark since you posted this comment a year ago, but did changing out the Steering Lock Limiter Plate fix your problem? I have the same problem when I fully turn the wheel to turn to the left, especially when I accelerate and was wondering if it might have been the same problem for you?
What happened between 2:17 and 2:18 ? How many hours of struggling? Always remove the two lower strut bolts at the hub. Never buy Profesional Parts Sweden, Scamtech, Uro, TRW, Meyle, Febi control arms. Only Volvo OEM or if the budget is tight Lemforder
A really easy job, but please don't attempt this without first compressing the springs. A few minutes doing so will save you hours of pushing/prying/hitting the control arms to get them back in. You also run the risk of pulling your cv joints apart, and also wrecking your spring seats and mounts with all the wriggling around.
Total error not to pull tie rod and castellated nut with machine parts to be used, saving stock and threads that were put out, it can be dangerous and some cases bolts go off if you pull them too hard Otherwise a good demonstration that was easy to see the work
Warning. this is aint easy 30 min job. the clip is ok but do not shows all the problems. Removing is a piece of cake. It took me over 3 hrs to install new one. Thank you for the clip anyway.
Yes, thanks - but there are few important steps missing! I just changed both control arms on my 2002 xc70 and the hardest part is getting the arms back on the car. The problem is that there is no way to align both of the frame mounts with the ball joint bolt while the ball joint is still attached to the car. Remove the ball joints, attach the arm to the frame, insert the ball joint into the control arm, and then reattach the ball joint to the brake housing. this will save you hours of time!!
Just bought a 1999 V70 with 116,000 miles. It might need this, plus struts real bad.
Thanks for posting this.
Really good simple advice, thank you sir!
thanx for posting this video because I am about to challenge my s60 both lower control arms.
Thanks for this just purchased both front control arms and will be fitting this week. Never done this before, however ur video makes it look easy. I have a s60 t5. Can you do some videos on how to replace brakes, handbrake shoes, and service including draining oil, fitting oil filter, petrol filter, new spark plugs and ht leads for stage 0 tune prior to having the stage 1 remap. Thanks keep posting
Well done and self explanatory, i Will do the same on my xc90. Met vriendeliijke groetjes
Nobody uses torque wrench anymore?
Attempted this job today on my S60 basically the same much harder than it looks. I don't know what it isn't recommended to remove the sway bar end links. If you get control arm off at least on my car with they darn sway bar makes makes everything move and is hard to realign on the control arm once you get the new one attached to the frame. Actually pulled the CV axle out of its joint by mistake. Thankfully I found a freelance mechanic who helped me get it fixed. Last thing I will say is if you are going to go to the trouble of replacing the control arm you almost should really replace the ball joint as well.
Nice starter video but does not describe the entire battle.
Absolutely. But then you need to take off the whole wheel assembly! And then you need a special press to get that ball joint on! I don't know why Volvo moved from the P80 bushing/ball joint control arm to this design.
BlastReadingSeries You can replace the ball joint and control arm together without a press. Its not the recommended way to go but I did it. Been two years and has been fine.
Nice, thanks for the reply. I was watching the video over at FCP and they had a fancy press to do that work... I suppose if you're careful you can do the work without that press.
Just did this job, he left out the hardest part.
@dsads7 my brother in law compressed the struts and coil springs that made it easier to manage too. took him half a day to replace right and let control arms.
thanks for posting this. did i hear you say you use loctite for that axel bolt?
Ummm... We had a ramp to use, boxes of tools galore and we still struggled - the impression here is that its about a ten minute job but its not - we ended up using spring compressors to compress the spring which is not mentioned here, to get it all back together. If anybody can come and show us, in the real world, quite how it's done using this same, stage by stage method as in this video, we would be thrilled. I'll put the kettle on now...
Yes, the last time your wheel alignment would have been done, it is more that possible that the control arm bushes had failed already. This means that the wheels would have been aligned with failed bushes and would have been off centre.
Tak pewnie też tak wymieniałem, tylko,że przy takiej wymianie często wychodzi z siebie przegub wewnętrzny i zaczynają się schody bo samochód jest unieruchomiony, bo albo uda się go umieścić z powrotem albo pozostaje kupno nowego. Powodzenia.
What was the socket you used to remove the bolts that need to be held while you are removing them??
Great video. however I had bad strut bushing so the control arm didn't line up as easily as it showed on the video, after I jacked up both sides of the car and picked up a spring compression kit I was able to the new one on,
No way I could get that in the way he showed, I had to remove the bolts from the strut, then the knuckle was free to get it into the ball joint cup. Impossible otherwise. I used heavy Duty control arms, the bushings might be stiffer than the ones he used.
Yep.... been there, done it all... but in the end i got it fixed anyway.
Whay need change all control arm?
Why would you unscrew the axle bolt?
well the car on the video has no rust , so easy to work on :D
Anyone that payed attention could see that he lined it up with the ball joint first, making it easy.....
Scantech? "See you in a week, dear customer!"
Do you need an alignment after you replace the control arms and ball points?
No...as long as you dont touch the strut assembly
What exactly are those little things bolted on to the front of the control arms that he transfers from the old one to the new one at about the 3:30 mark in this video?
Steering lock limiter plate.
It prevents the wheels being turned too far, thus preventing the tyres coming into contact with the wheel arches.
+DementedMako This might be a shot in the dark since you posted this comment a year ago, but did changing out the Steering Lock Limiter Plate fix your problem? I have the same problem when I fully turn the wheel to turn to the left, especially when I accelerate and was wondering if it might have been the same problem for you?
Does this require aligning of the wheels again?
Yes.
I wonder if his watch is still undamaged?
You have to loose the axel?
Yes. This prevents over extension of the inner CV joint when you are pulling off the old control arm, or installing the new one.
@scienceisgod1 no its built into the control arm. ;(
Step 1: Buy a lift!
What happened between 2:17 and 2:18 ? How many hours of struggling? Always remove the two lower strut bolts at the hub. Never buy Profesional Parts Sweden, Scamtech, Uro, TRW, Meyle, Febi control arms. Only Volvo OEM or if the budget is tight Lemforder
You remove the centre bolt so you don't pull the driveshaft apart at the cv joint!
A really easy job, but please don't attempt this without first compressing the springs. A few minutes doing so will save you hours of pushing/prying/hitting the control arms to get them back in. You also run the risk of pulling your cv joints apart, and also wrecking your spring seats and mounts with all the wriggling around.
I need a lift and a garage to put it in!
Total error not to pull tie rod and castellated nut with machine parts to be used, saving stock and threads that were put out, it can be dangerous and some cases bolts go off if you pull them too hard Otherwise a good demonstration that was easy to see the work
I left my axle bolts and tie rod ends alone to do it.
Isn't it sad that because of a few perished pieces of rubber you have to replace an entire metal arm. Not possible to just replace the bushes?
Yes, but you need a special tool for pressing the rubber inside the control arm...wich makes it cheaper to buy a new control arm
Warning. this is aint easy 30 min job. the clip is ok but do not shows all the problems. Removing is a piece of cake. It took me over 3 hrs to install new one.
Thank you for the clip anyway.
scantech controlarms are JUNK I know i have replaced mine.Buy Power Flex bushings in stead. and this video does not show the whole deal in this job.
+deepshitjunkies It because you forgot to screw the nuts :)
Except just about every mechanic will want the car for 1/2 a day to do what looks very much like a 30 min job per side !
how to change a control arm.. step 1, buy a lift. smart guy, sucks doing this on the ground.
Scamtech, now called Professional Parts Sweden, the worst quality
I would like to see you do the right side.. Heh... the fuckery the volvo engineers put you through is a fucking joke.
scantech? ew...