How to Replace Front Control Arm 01-07 Volvo V70
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- Äas pĹidĂĄn 3. 12. 2018
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New Control Arm Set from 1AAuto.com 1aau.to/ia/1ASFK00423
CORRECTED TORQUE SPEC ##
14:04 77 ft-lbs
1A Auto shows you how to repair, install, fix, change or replace loose, worn, or control arms. This video is applicable to the 01, 02, 03, 04, 05, 06, 07 Volvo V70
đ§ List of tools used:
⢠Pry Bar 1aau.to/odf/1AXAA00020
⢠17mm Wrench 1aau.to/ogx/1AXAA00010
⢠18mm Wrench
⢠21mm wrench
⢠10mm Socket 1aau.to/oxq/1AXAA00017
⢠14mm Socket 1aau.to/oBv/1AXAA00015
⢠17mm Socket 1aau.to/oBv/1AXAA00015
⢠21mm Socket 1aau.to/oh4/1AXAA00043
⢠T40 Socket
⢠1/2 Inch Breaker Bar 1aau.to/oeK/1AXAA00078
⢠Ratchet 1aau.to/oIf/1AXAA00016
⢠Socket Extensions 1aau.to/oBv/1AXAA00015
⢠Torque Wrench 1aau.to/oki/1AXAA00044
⢠Rust Penetrant
⢠Center Punch 1aau.to/oaK/1AXAA00055
⢠Floor Jack 1aau.to/oiL/1AXAA00068
⢠Hammer 1aau.to/oe9/1AXAA00091
⢠Jack Stands 1aau.to/oiJ/1AXAA00065
⢠Wire Brush 1aau.to/obM/1AXAA00079
For More Info visit us at 1aau.to/h/agQ/
â DISCLAIMER:
While 1A Auto strives to make the information provided in this video as accurate as possible, it makes no claims, promises, or guarantees about the accuracy, completeness or applicability of the content. No information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. All do-it-yourself projects entail some risk. It is the sole responsibility of the viewer to assume this risk. 1A Auto is not responsible or liable for any loss damage (including, but not limited to, actual, consequential, or punitive), liability, claim, or any other injury or cause related to or resulting from any information posted in this video.
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This better then fcp euro's version of the same part replacement video. You got way better lighting and video quality, more detailed information too. Thank you Sue, hope to see more videos from you.
Wow a professional mechanic video that actually experiences Problems.
Just a warning, if you by a ball joint aftermarket, make sure the bolt has the allen head hole at the end of the bolt. If not, you'll go to tighten or loosen and the ball joint will just spin and the nut won't tighten on the bolt. This happened to me just yesterday and I had to take it all apart to replace the ball joint with one that had the allen slot at the end of the bolt. MUST HAVE!
Great video. IMPORTANT NOTE: sometime in the middle of 2007, there was a transition from aluminum to steel control arms. Aluminum ones used ball joints with cones on each end (like in the video). Steel control arms used ball joints without the cones. So, ball joints are not compatible. I do not know if you can technically fit steel arms with the new type of ball joints on older models to replace aluminum.
There is a special tool for pressing the ball joint back in the knuckle. Not every replacement ball joint will go in as easy as the one shown here with a few hits with a drift. I had one the first time I did it, and the 100$ tool for it takes only a couple minutes and super easy. Also easier to remove knuckle from strut and work it off the car...especially when changing the arm....and faster. Or you can do it this way and struggle like she did if you want.
Thank you are the best on youtube no edit on hard moments. Thanks!
Good vid, but never, ever, position a pry bar at the front of a bolt aperture because it's gonna snap!! have a closer look, you can see the ally flexing... ;)
pardon me but its 14x1.5 not 14x1.25 right??
Amazing job, was really helpful with my xc70, thank You Sue!
Great Vid and love how it was explained. My only annoyance is...Well, not annoyance but the suggestion is, why not just remove the single 17mm or 18mm Lower ball joint nut? Then wedge in a ball joint fork to separate? Unless your replace the ball joint and arm aswell?
Great video to show the process. I'd like to add a couple tips though. I have done this several times, owning many XCs, about a dozen 70 and five xc90, from these generations.
The vertical arm bolt (rear big one) is only 75 ft-lb (105 Nm) + 90 degrees however that's for a new bolt (stretch type). The two front ones are 45 ft-lb (65Nm) and 90 deg (for new bolt). If you reuse the old bolts, you may want to reduce (or skip) the degrees rotation. You don't need to remove the ball joint that way, it's way too difficult (unless you are also replacing it, the original ones last quite long). Just turn the bj nut a little to break it loose, clean well the threads, clean well the torx hole, then use the torx to lock the stud and remove the nut. Make sure to remove the axle bolt and push back the axle, never pull on the outer CV joint. On my S60 with 5 speed auto Aisin, the inner arm bolts are impossible to reach unless you lift a bit the trans/engine, and even so I had to use a high quality 3/8 drive and wrenches because the 1/2 wouldn't fit. I suggest you try and inspect the side arm bolts, these can rust and get thin. When putting in place the new arms, people have a lot of troubles pressing them down to pass the bj stud because the new bushings are very stiff. Camera man could have helped you at
I love your style, these videos are great. You show how to tackle problems and you do it without the $130 specialty tools, thank you!
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Thank you, your th best on utube.. Five stars â¤
Check the drive shaft is still correctly seated in the gearbox its easy to pull it out put it all back together and have no drive.
I will be doing this job on my S60 and S70 in the coming weeks. This tutorial video will be right next to me. THANK YOU!
Wicked informative, complete with torque specs. Still not convinced the axle bolt was necessary, but I guess itâs safer than breaking one
Excellent video as always, clear, not rushed and very well made. I've tackled a few simple jobs thanks to videos like this and the control arm is next on the list. I was a litle concerned knocking the axle out but the video makes it look somewhat straight forward, many thanks, first class!