Lower Control Arm Wishbone Replacement Volvo V70 S60 S80
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- čas přidán 24. 07. 2014
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I show you the quickest and simplest way replace your control arm, which is also known as a wishbone.
There is NO driveshaft removal and I show you how to do the job with basic hand tools. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. Using my Amazon links does not cost you any extra.
After studying this video religiously i finally got mine replaced on my v70xc with 170k miles. Followed every step to the T and had help pulling/ pushing the ratchet strap underneath and dropping in the ball joint. This is a tried and true method.
I just did this, and a tip is to add a block of sorts between the strap and the engine underside so the pull angle is more efficient, it tends to pull straigt to either side rather then in a downward angle, I used a sissor jack so I could adjust the pull angle
Well done that man!!! After struggling for eight hours to get the wishbone in, on the left front of my 2004 V70R, and enlisting the help of my neighbor I searched CZcams, and found your video. The right side took a total of 2.5 hr and was a total piece of cake. The "R" parts are a little beefier but you method worked perfectly. I'll be drinking to your health tonight. Thank you from the bottom of my heart.
Thank you for taking the time to comment and you're very welcome.
I enjoy finding easier ways to do jobs on cars and am happy to pass any tips.
It's nice to know that I've helped keep a nice version like yours on the road.
If you haven't already, please click the thumbs up "like" button to move this video up the searches and make it easy to find for fellow Volvo owners.
Thanks again!
sirobb
Consider it done and keep up the good work!!
SiRobb. While replacing the driver side control arm on my 2001 S80 the driveshaft came apart at the upper boot. Can this go back together?
Or is a new shaft assembly needed.
Thanks for your input on this issue.
Thanks Rob I have to tackle this job in the next couple of weeks. This is the most comprehensive video I have found and I am glad you showed this can be done without lifting the engine or removing the axle. I do hope to have access to a lift when I do the job so that will be an added bonus. Please keep up the good work brother!!
Sir, you are a gentleman and a scholar. If you ever find yourself in Southam, allow me to buy you a drink. Thanks again!
Thanks for taking the time to make and post this video! I was at a loss for the last 2 hours on how to install the control arm. Now that I see what I need to do, I should be done in about 20 minutes!
brickwal92tt Excellent. Let me know how you get on.
I’ve fought with ball joints so much. Thanks for making the video!
Brilliant video. Thanks so much for doing this. I have renewed confidence in doing this job myself.
Great video keep making more and I'm putting mines back on today with all the bushings and the ball joint are brand new I expect a smooth ride now thanks.
Yes thank you for this. My S60R is a Left hand drive but it all seemed pretty much the same. Ive been having some horrible clanking noises going over bumps and after further inspection I found the rear bushing was grinding metal on metal. Control Arm was ordered so I get to do this in a couple of days. Thank you!
I'm half way through changing both control arms & ball joints (passenger side done, rain stopped play yesterday) and I really could't have managed without your video. My only difficulty was locating the rear bush correctly... after a bit of gentle persuasion from a rubber mallet it seated perfectly.
Fantastic video, with your no-nonsense approach anyone can do this, great advice keep on filming
Thanks for your support Jim.
More videos are on the way and I'm always open to requests for videos if there's a job that you or anyone are struggling with.
I need to order a ratchet strap - Genius tip. Thanks very much!
Supergood instruction video! Clear and not too fast! Good job! Thanks!
Thanks for this video, Just finished the job myself , the first took two plus hours , I had the mechanic help to reset the lower ball (twenty minutes on that alone ) with a few close calls on fingers getting crushed. The second one was changed in thirty minutes, the mechanics jaw hit the floor when I used the cargo strap to tension the lower control arm. Impact driver, the auto lift, and the cargo strap trick were huge diference makers.
I wish i have not seen you film before i started. It would safe at least 3 hrs for doing that job.
thanks for sharing
At least you now know for next time :)
Your comment is much appreciated.
I've just done my abs rings and noticed my one wishbone Bush looks just like yours. Great video, lots of helpful tips
I'll be tackling this tomorrow! Many thanks Si
Thank you for this video. I followed your recommendations and you were spot on. Excellent work.
Ed Torres I'm glad it worked out for you and thank you for taking the time to comment.
Great video, even with dodgy camera work. Id recommend this video to those who need to know how to replace the arm. I am replacing bushings inside my mothers volvo s60, reparing the DIM, and possibly replacing the ball joints.
Just gunna give a shout out. Did my s80 like how you instructed and finished. Took my sweet time with everything n stopped midday to eat breakfast.... Took me around 3 hours total. Probably will take n hour n a half if I do it again for both sides. Best time safer is the straps to hold the lower control arm down. Thanks for the tips!!
Great video and wonderful resource! Was able to replace the ball joints and control arms on my 2000 S80 T6 because of your video. Thanks SiRobb for sharing.
Great video man and thanks for the effort and time in sharing.
The best method i have seen on CZcams,highly recommended.
Regards Bob,Telford
Thank you. I'm glad you found it useful.
I'm still trying to work out why one person has disliked the video.
Maybe they're someone who charges a fortune for this relatively simple job and they'll lose business.:)
Thanks SiRobb. Without you I'd have been doing it by the DIY manual (no names mentioned!) and jacking up the engine! It was a bit of a bonus to find that on mine (S60 2.0T), having loosened the 17mm bolts using your method, I was able to withdraw them completely and change them if I wanted.
Something you didn't mention was the proximity of the metal pipe to the 17mm bolt head next to the undershield bracket. In order to get the clearance for the bolt head I had to wedge a small block of wood between the pipe and the subframe lip to force the pipe aside, which was a bit scary as I was worried I was stressing nearby pipe joints too much, but I seem to have got away with it.
Strap idea worked well too. These days all my mates say they are too old to help with jobs like that. Wimps!
Another masterclass on the s60 si well done.
The only other worth mentioning is final torque must be done with wheels on the ground. 👍
Bravo mate. Thanks for the tip with the ratchet strap.
1st time. 3hrs for the cpl front axl. Lift and air tools. I didn‘t have to lift the engine. ‘06 D5 185hp auto.
The lower joints in the hubs were a pain!
Thx for the vid!!!
So glad you have this out there, thank you 🙌 gonna tackle both sides today would of been virtually impossible without your knowledge, thanks again 👍
Thanks and you're welcome. See also my much more recent balljoint replacement video where I show how to remove the entire hub assembly which is less difficult than you might think.
Although I don't remove the wishbone in that video, you can see how easy it would be to remove and refit without ratchet straps with the hub already off.
Just thought I'd mention it.....
@@sirobb ah brilliant that will come in handy too. I've not ordered the ball joints just the wishbones to get it through upcoming mot but will definitely be looking for after that. I will stick to your tried and true strap method this once 😂🙌
Just had my Volvo diagnosed with worn out bushes and realized I was getting built up for the "lets strip the car down" quote where they make sure you're sitting down.
After watching your video I am seriously thinking about having a go at this, great idea on the drive shaft staying in place. All in all a very well made workshop video, picture quality was good.
Well done.
Thanks for the comment.
Even if you get the garage to do it, at least you know how straightforward the job is if they try to tell you it's major work and charge the earth.
Pretty useful, you just made my day easier, cheers!
Great! Thanks for the comment. 👍
did that today with some help from a neighbor it was successful thanks again.
alfred kabura You're welcome and well done. 👍
Thanks. This video helped me a lot. I'm almost done with the passenger side... just need a ratchet strap to get it on the ball joint.
thank you so much for this video, I have to change both control arms on my 04 s60r tomorrow and was dreading it, this makes it look like a snap!
Thanks and I hope your swap went well.
I just want to thank you for your tips on using the strapping tie down to install the ball joint. By this method it saves a lot of headache.
This Yank wants to say Thank You for the best video on how to do this project. Love from across the pond from your American cousin.
Excellent. That's nice to hear. 👍
THANKS THANKS THANKS @SiRobb for showing me how to do this and give me the confidence to try it without shelling out £££ for a garage to do it for me! I wouldn't say I didn't struggle but I did get there with a little patience and trial and error. I would say to anyone trying this for the first time: borrow an impact driver (saves time). I was a little worried I'd dislocated the driveshafts but they were fine - there is quite a bit of in/out movement to allow for suspension travel so don't worry if you notice it. Bolts can be very tight - if you can, get under the car and soak the bolts in WD or similar a few days before you start. The bit I struggled with most was pulling the arm down to reconnect the bottom ball joint - an extra helper would have been ideal to give me the few mm I was looking for. All in all an EXCELLENT video for anyone trying this for the first time.
Well done and I'm glad I could help.
Thank you also for your extra advice to anyone else trying this. 👍
changed my rack end and control arms today , copied your method worked out great thanks!
Cheers for the comment and well done. 👍
Great instruction. will help me do this work on my XC90
Great video. I have the exact same issue where my rear bushing is torn on the passenger side and it makes horrible creaking noises going over bumps. I was a bit hesitant at first about tackling the job, but your video gave me all the confidence I need to do this myself. Don't worry about the camera work, you showed all the major components of the installation in great detail which is IMO much more important than simple production value. Thanks!
I'm glad you found it helpful and appreciate you taking the time to comment. 👍
Instead of pulling the arm down I just put the jack under the front of the drum & lift it onto it👍 I know the straps are strong but some people buy them from pound land & they are unforgiving when they break.thanks for the vids buddy👍
Ratchet strap trick workes perfectly! Thanks!
nice video and good camera work considering what you are doing - thankyou
GREAT DIY VIDEO! Very useful. Thank you. I have a S60R and the process seems to be exactly the same.
Thank you.
If you go through the comments, an S60R owner says that my method worked for him so it should for you too. :o)
Thanks again. Which brand do you prefer for control arms?: IPD, Meyle HD or Volvo? IPD says that Volvo have some recycled material, so quality is not optimal.
Mau Solórzano Wong Volvo every time.
IPD's new rubber compound isn't tried and tested long term but if they can prove their control arms last over 100000 miles like genuine Volvo, I would consider them but for now I'll stay with Volvo.
Don't take a chance on cheaper control arms because you'll regret it and you'll be doing the job again much sooner.
Make your savings on less important parts of the car.
I have Meyle shocks and anti-roll bar links and they're good so far but I wouldn't have their control arms.
You have a point. Control arms are a critical part of the P2 chassis. Thanks again!
I used Mahle and they lasted a grand total of 10,000 miles and 3 years. Total garbage. I'm going to try your method without removing the axle bolts - I did remove them the first time. The ratchet strap idea is fantastic. Used that one before.
Man, thank you so much for showing us the ratchet strap trick, I've been at it for over 12 hours (ball joint and control arm) and I finally completed 1 side using your tricks. I struggled so much getting the ball joint to fit in the hub, and after using brute force for over 4 hours I found out that I had some weird ridge inside of the hole on the splines which caused the ball joint to not fit in there properly... So I sanded that down and it in like a glove. On to complete the other side tomorrow :)
On a CV axle video someone said to loosen the top bolt and take out the lower bolt on strut assembly, that lets the whole wheel assemble shift/tilt out to give plenty of room to get ball joint back in...did it in 5min after reading his comment - would be same for this work.
@@FlippedSociety for some reason when I tried that the ball joint only went into the knuckle skewed, it was absolutely horrible and I was about to get it taken to a garage on a flatbed lol luckily the sanding of the hole that the ball joint fits into inside the knuckle did the trick
Great Video, Thanks a lot. my project for the summer. doesn`t look too difficult, so actually I might do it myself. once again, Thanks a lot
No problem. I hope your swap goes well.
Genius idea with the ratchet strap! Thanks!
Thanks but I'm happy to admit that it's Volvo's official method so an established procedure.
Very clear video indeed, thank's for sharing 👍
Cheers for the video bud, my wifes car has just been serviced and they have picked up on both front arms need replacing.
No problem.
I hope your fix goes well.
Thank you for doing this! Not as bad of of a job as I thought.
Thanks Ed. That's great to hear.
I had great difficulty on my XC90 trying to separate the ball joint from the control arm on disassembly, and getting the ball joint located back into the arm on reassembly (the rachet strap bit). In the end I found it MUCH quicker and easier to undo the two 13mm bolts holding the ball joint into the hub, and by tapping on the control arm withdraw the whole ball joint unit from the hub (rather than separating it). Then I separated the ball joint from the control arm in my press, fitted it onto the new control arm and reinstalled. Or just fit a new ball joint to your new control arm and don't even have to separate the old ones. When using the rachet strap to reassemble it is much easier to have the ball joint already attached to the arm. It only took me about 1hr to do my 2nd one using this method.
I am going to be replacing both the control arms & balljoints on my xc90 and was thinking about trying it the way you describe in your comment here (preassemble c-arm & ball joint on my bench and then reinserting them both together as one control arm-balljoint unit). I replaced them separately using this ratchet method(great video by the way Si Robb!) on my old S60 I had about 4-5 years ago and remember it being REALLY tense on that strap before popping the control arm into place over the balljoint bolt end. My question is with the preassembled method is it easy to maneuver the ball joint portion into the knuckle and bolt those two 13mm balljoint bolts down? If you still would need a ratchet strap to pull it down to put it in place it seems like a dangerous amount of tension to be trying to working around as you try to put the balljoint end into the wheel knuckle.
You're right mate. Thanks again for help.
Like this method - rather than loosening the axle bolt - thanks mate!!
I like this video as using the rachet strap would of made my life easier when I did mine, there is something I would like to share though. I did my nearside first and I didnt undo my drive shaft bolt. so as I took the wishbone off, The whole leg decided to come forward and stretched on the cv joint causing the inners to come apart. It took me a day or so trying to reassemble the drive shaft.
My tip and suggestions are to grab some locktight, a bungie cord and when doing work on the lower leg components - undo the drive shaft bolt and bungie cord it to the coil spring so if the leg decides to fling forward then it will not pull the drive shaft out. Once you put the drive shaft back in along with the rubber spacer then a quick clean up on the drive shaft bolt and put the locktight on and do it.
watching your vid, it shows you was quite lucky that the leg didn't spring out. Still a thumbs up from me.
I have to do this to my 2004 S60. Kind of dreading it. Thanks for this video.
Very useful video. Thank you!!
Great video, and I too don't like to waste time taking down drive shaft or disconnecting what is not required, and as a tip for others, if you don't have ratchet strap, just use another jack and place it under rotor and jack up and ball joint will slip in with less danger of tension strap slipping. Accomplishes same thing to allow ball joint to fit back into wishbone. Even easier, replace ball joint at same time for they will go sooner or later and with the amount of work required to get access, sure will save time in long run.
But replacing the ball joint does add substantially to the job, correct?
ARE-YOU-FAT.com MUST DISCONNECT SWAYBAR LINK FOR SAFETY if jacking one wheel/hub/rotor with car on jackstands, otherwise too much risk of slippage and injury
Afraid that is very hard to do, the hub/strut connected to the sway bar link will sway and not stay vertical
Just replaced my control arms on my 2007 V70R today, using this video, and the IPD control arm / sway bar end link / ball joint kit. THANKS FOR THE GUIDANCE! The control arm part of the job went smoothly, as per the video. On my car the RH front sub-frame bolts were difficult to access due to a rigid AC line that we had to pry out of the way to get the box wrench on. I did not hoist the engine to get to those bolts. Also, we used a come-along (ratchet strap) and strapped a 2x4 to the control arm to lever it down over the ball joint bolt. Having a second person really helps.
Nice work and we'll done. 👍
aksel quintus-bosz how did you get the AC line out of the way??
***** I unclipped the line out of 3-4 plastic brackets, and then CAREFULLY pried the aluminum AC line aside just enough to get a ratcheting box-end wrench over the bolts. The rear bolt on the front bracket was more difficult. We managed to get a socket on the front bolt.
thanks for all your helpful videos
You're welcome. I would sometimes rather do the job without filming because it takes much longer but I guess I'm a glutton for punishment and enjoy making the videos. ☺
Excellent informative video!
awesome video! no worries about the camerawork, your tutorial is great nevertheless
That's great to hear. Thank you.
MOST IMPORTANTLY! WHEN DOING THIS JOB MAKE SURE BOTH SIDES OF THE CAR ARE JACKED UP EQUALLY. WITH THE ANTI SWAY BAR YOU COULD ACCIDENTALLY PULL CV AXLE OUT!!! GOLDEN RULE OF SUSPENSION WORK IS ALWAYS MAKE SURE BOTH SIDES ARE JACKED UP EQUALLY, THAT IS FIRST RULE OF SUSPENSION WORK.
Good video I did this job on my 02 S60 Last year and it was difficult. The first spot you showed with the bolts under the car where the skid plate goes I had to buy a long rod to break them, there is like you mention zero way to access them properly. It can be done without jacking up the engine it was a learning process. Personally if you are going to do this job and drive it for quite a while I would highly suggest getting new lower control arms with polyurethane bushings. This might make the initial handling a bit tighter but over the long haul I did this at like 170k miles I have 210k and expect to not have to do this job again. I also suggest if you go through the pain of doing the control arms might as well replace the ball joints at the same time. For cost and effort I found it easier to replace the control arm with the ball joint locket in and use a pry bar with rope similar concept to your method (probably less dangerous) and get it in its spot then torque it down to its correct spot to put it in place. Overall great video. When I did this the videos on here were not very clear and I ended up spending two days, I pulled a cv axle out and broke and sway bar end link.
The two most difficult aspects are definitely getting to bolts underneath where the skid plate is and using some kind of pry system to get it over the ball joint or in my case to get the ball joint & control are in place. To give my experience for anyone who reads this, 4 to 5 years ago I knew absolutely nothing about cars. Now thanks to youtube and community boards I have been able to do rotors, break pads, control arms & ball joints, spark plugs, motor mounts, fuel pump. Especially for Volvos it is expensive to have work done you can do yourself. My advice to everyone is watch as many videos as you can for different tricks and methods and be sure to check out the various community boards. Lots of great info there too. Most of these jobs especially for suspension aren't rocket science.
Thank you very very much for this video.
Thanks Rob great video.
Great video! I’m your new subscriber! 👍👍
Great job, Thank You.
i have done this job a few times, and will be doing another one on a 2005 volvo s60 soon. hopefully i have time to record a video. i have never replaced those bolts on any of the ones i have done in the past. i live in California, so we don't get much rain, so usually the bolts are in good shape. if they are rusted, i would recommend replacing them.
Thanks for the video!
Great Video. Helped a lot!
That's great news and well done on tackling this yourself.
Nice job well done
Thank you Mike
This needs to be done with both wheels off the ground, or the sway bar link will put pressure on the strut and it will force the spindle sideways making it difficult to align the ball joint into the wishbone. I prefer removing the two lower strut bolts, but you need a breaker bar. I have some videos on my channel, look up with 'peppermint control arm'
Thanks for the info mate. Coz i would of done it with one wheel on the ground. 👍🏿
Hi Peppermint, like your channel, great tip!
Some posters recommend loosening the top strut bolt. Some recommend using spring compressors to lift the strut up and make the install of the ball joint easier. Your thoughts?
@@brianbennett1244 I have a few videos on my channel (search with 'peppermint control arm') The top strut bolt is not related. You can try with compressors but I wonder if there is enough space for them. Careful not to pull on the ABS sensor cable or on the brake flexi one. Indeed, because the new arms have very stiff bushings, it will be impossible to force it down with bare hands to pass over the long ball joint stud. Be aware the two lower strut bolts are huge and often times very stuck and require at least 2ft breaker bar
@@Peppermint1dude literally had no rust and forgot to mention the other minor details such as lift both tires in the air so weight is distributed evenly 😂 god dam brittish
Unless a person has an impact wrench, they will want to loosen the steering link nut before removing all the control arm bolts. Otherwise the knuckle wants to move all over the place when you're trying to crack it loose.
I did this the way displayed today, after doing it the "normal" way previously (used some GARBAGE Meyle control arms that lasted only a year and 5,000 miles). I would not recommend this technique to the weekend warrior. It's a few more steps to release the axle from the hub, but I found it less stressful. Seeing the axle boot shoved into the control arm was disconcerting. There is just enough room for this technique to work - kudos to you for discovering it.
In doing the second arm, when maneuvering the back bushing into place, the last thread snapped on the front bolt, which could have been turned in a few more threads. There is a lot that can wrong using this shortcut... Like I said, if you do it frequently, you'd become a pro. But the occasional mechanic may want to do it differently.
Thanks for the post. Such a big help. Having a problem though similar to a few others. Pass control arm fit perfectly with ball joint, driver side arm however is just a little off, like half an inch. I'm wondering if I should try installing it again.
Offside and nearside arms fit in exactly the same manner so if you're certain you have a matching pair, I can't see how there would be an issue.
I would visually compare and take measurements of the one you've removed and the one that's replacing it.
Useful video - note that the lower arms are different on the 06-07 V70 phase 2 - the earlier cars have alloy arms as shown in the video, the later ones are steel arms in a slightly different shape, most of the video still applies though.
I would say that all of the video still applies.
The slight differences in design make no odds to a successful replacement.
Thx for your quick response! I tried that already but it seem to have rusted together. I might have to cut the nut with my Dewalt grinder. I have new steering parts including all screws and bolts in my control arm exchange kit.
Wire brush and plenty of proper penetrating oil not ordinary WD40.
It's only a nut and bolt so will come off with patience.
Good tips. Cheers 👍
thank you sir! was able to get mine replaced in the same manner. Was a pain trying to get the round bushing in place with the bolt that goes thru the middle. ugh.
wow thanks I have to do both on my wife's car. thanks for your video.
I hope it goes equally well for you.
SiRobb
Tom Smith Your comment is blank.....
great job!
Thanks for the hints, was able to do this on my car! Only problem was my ratchet straps were much smaller... had trouble until I looked at yours carefully. I was able to use two ratchet straps side-by-side, and tighten them alternately, although they felt like they were at the limit!
Yes, a meaty ratchet strap is definitely recommended to overcome the bush tension.
Glad you found a good workaround though. Nice work. 👍
+sirobb im have issues getting the ball joint to sit in the control arm. ive tried your method and it doesnt seem feasible. any ideas???
+joe bert why isn't the method feasible for you?
Do you have a strong enough ratchet strap and have you threaded it correctly?
For some reason the ball joint is just to far away from the control arm. Ratchet is not the problem and is a great idea. Its still about an inch or so away from contol arm.
I wish I could put pictures in this feed.
I mucked about with the ball joint for a while til I had a Eureka moment. I located the rear bush loosely bolted. The ball joint was easily located in position. Popped the wheel back on and lowered it back on ground. Wishbone was then in its natural place and front bush bolts were perfectly lined up and went straight in no problem at all. I didn’t have to remove track rod end and didn’t have a ratchet strap.
Paul Kelly I can picture what you've done but I wouldn't be trying it any time soon.
As long as it works for you, that's the main thing.
SiRobb yes I just didn’t have the strap as an option. We tried levering it down with a bar and nearly lost bits of my fingers first. Was stuck for an hour before it ‘came to me’ lol. Needs must when the Devil drives.
This is awesome! You gave me confidence to do this myself. I did NOT want to raise the engine to perform this swap. Elegangant suggestion about the ratchet straps too. Can you suggest any DIY ways to make the Ball Joint replacement easier?
Spot on mate
Thanks i have removed the lower control arm i will not be changing the arm but the two bushings and the ball joint tomorrow.
I tried to save some money by replacing those bushes on control arms and ended up with crashed aluminum and had to order mew ones, my advice is: do not try to save money that way. Anyway, great video , great tutorial thanks again
Thankyou so much
Be aware that some sites and another yt video give the wrong torque for the big vertical arm bolt, the correct torque is - for a new stretch bolt - 78 ft-lb (105Nm) + angle tightening 90°. However since we are reusing the bolt, I would skip the 90° rotation. The two horizontal bolts are 45 ft-lb (65Nm) + 90° (new bolt)
thanks bro!!!
i have always remove the bolts to the strut tower, the center shaft bolt and taken off the speed sensor, and the brake caliper. just support the axle and caliper with a bungi cord. i would be alittle afraid of that strap slipping off and hitting me in the face. But, this is a great short cut. you are not removing the whole axle, just turning wheel , like you did, and slipping the axle out of the rotor. there is a dust seal on the axle, make sure you put it back on the same way it came off, if it comes off.
Excellent video
Thank you.👍
Can you do mine please hehe
sirobb thanks so much for this video! My 2000 needs both sides, is the other side just as easy? Also did you have to keep the ball joint from spining when you reassembled it? it was good to see a video of it done from start to finish, not just pictures like some others on youtube. You have differently saved me a few hundred dollars for sure by not going to a garage to have this done. thanks agian for taking the time to video this. Cheers!
Thank you. None of the other videos were clear enough so I'm happy to help.
For the balljoint you'll need a T40 torx to counterhold the thread whilst you tighten the nut with a spanner.
The driver's side is just as easy but make sure you use a very good quality 17mm offset spanner. It must fit the bolt very well otherwise a rounded off bolt head creates lots of trouble.
Soak all bolts and threads in a good penetrating fluid before you start, preferably the day before then again on the day. I used Plusgas.
Take your time and you'll be fine.
Bravo !!!
thank you thank you thank you!! I was stumped and couldnt figure out how to get that damn ball joint in!!!
I'm glad it helped.
That final bolt has foxed many people. ☺
Good Job
Hi Sirobb Thanks for your advise,I am living in Sweden the home of Volvo...usually volvo is no problem to handle regarding service like this...BUT...this time Ireally needed some help,and I sure hope it will help me tomorrow...you know in Sweden we call a Volvo by the name of tractor...but this???? when I was young it was quit different...this f?cking development....thanks again...
great video ..but I forgo the strap ...took off strut from spindle and made it SO EASY TO PUSH CONTROL ARM...spent 6hrs try to bring it down with pry bar even ratchet strap since I'm not familiar with them gave me a hard time. try me guys remove strut from spindle
EVERYONE READ THIS - If you don't have the strap simply remove the 2 spindle bolts that hold on the strut - this save me HOURS of frustration - it is very easy to align the ball joint once you do this - Kudos to you Alex and to SiRobb for a great video!!!!!
What I would also suggest id to use spring compressors to minimise the height of the strut. If you don't have a ratchet strp, use a long metal pole and force the control arm down.
I did this on my S80, worked great except I couldn't get the ratchet strap to pull the arm down far enough to relocate the ball joint, so I unbolted the strut from the wheel hub and slotted it in.
There are videos of people taking apart the whole suspension to remove the control arm, its not necessary, just support (not compress) the strut and drop the arm..easy. Also replacing the bushes can be done with a hacksaw and a bench vice, no need for a 10tonne press as ive read on online forums.
..... but I removed the arm without needing to compress or even support anything.
As for rebushing, not everyone has the facilities or the time and I've yet to see a rebushing video which shows it's as simple as you describe.
Perhaps you could make one?
Good video. However the ratchet strap method didn't help too much. I had to completely disconnect the strut from the strut knuckle assembly and actually lift it to get the back joint in. Thank God for compact impact wrenches for this situation. Which you have to be careful if you aren't disconnecting the axle bolt and axle as it could get damage. I would recommend removing the axle bolt and axle to be safe. The strap did help some but couldn't get it all the way in. My car is a 2001 Volvo S60 and using the OEM Lemforder control arms.
+Jeremiah Nichols Always take out the axle bolt and make sure the car is jacked up evenly. I would also make sure the sway bar end link is removed also. There is lots of tension in that area, I made a major mistake pulling out my CV axle and breaking a sway bar end link. A rope and a pry bar for leverage should be enough to fit the control arm on the ball joint or control arm & ball joint into its housing depending on how you do it.