Volvo S60 PCV Breather System Replacement - Prevent Smog! (C70, S60, S80, V70, XC70, XC90)
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- čas přidán 12. 09. 2017
- ►A PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) breather system is been designed to regulate hazardous waste from your vehicle. As your engine runs, combustion gases escape from the combustion chamber, finding their way into the crankcase of your engine. This unused combustion gas, also referred to as "blow-by," can be a major cause of smog. A PCV system prevents pollutants from escaping into the environment and vehicle manufacturers started fitting engines with a PCV valve to ensure that gas remains contained within your vehicle.
*Be sure to re-attach the banjo bolt before mounting the manifold.*
For more information on the PCV system and why it's so integral to the proper functioning of your engine, click the blog link below for an in-depth writeup on Volvo's PCV system.
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Dude, I have to tell you - I’m not a mechanic and I’m trying to do this myself in my garage watching this on my phone, and I have heard you drum on that thing like 1,000 times.
Did you get the job done? I just took mine to a Volvo indie cause this is just too much work
@@fredaydaybae8450 dropping mine off tomorrow how much did it set you back
@@fredaydaybae8450 how much cost you ?
Between this and Jay’s other videos, I think we all have heard his drum solo 1,000 times 😂 Finally got the job done, took a while as every vacuum hose I’ve encountered had disintegrated to dust. Quite an involved job when compared to my Toyota, which is only a 20 minute job! But with patience, time, parts from FCP, and of course with these excellent videos, you’ll get there!
It’s easy and especially with a step by step instructions like this thanks bro
just want you guys to know that i became a customer because of these tutorial videos. i've always worked on my own vehicles (by necessity) and while generally most things are straightforward there is still a huge value to watching someone do it and explain the process, makes things much easier. however, for most vehicles, all you're going to get is maybe a 5 part series of 8 minute long videos of some guy recording with his cell phone, which is still helpful and appreciated, but those have their own drawbacks too. these videos are professional and clear to see what's happening and with good explanations. i was originally going to purchase the parts i needed for slightly less somewhere else, but these videos are so helpful that i'm glad to pay towards getting such great customer service. thank you
After removing the PCV box from my son's V70R (which was mine before hand) we found absolutely no sludge build up and the car has 250,000 miles on it. Apparently driving hard and fast works! These engines are damn near bullet proof. Here's to another 250,000!
till the block cracks
@@its.gav.v1563 On R models its the cylinder walls that crack.
Driving hard can clog the pcv more though.
This guy is really good, I've seen many videos and have been doing mechanical work all my life.
Clean, precise great to watch!
Quick tip for the banjo bolt. Loosen 3 lower intake bolts. Raise up intake 1/2” or so. Re-tighten the center and right bolt. This will hold up the intake just enough to make it easier to reinstall the banjo bolt. Do a few dry runs first so you get the feel of the re-thread. Then do it for real with the top crush washer. Btw, put a towel over the alternator, Murphy loves to drop crush washers into the alternator.
Does the banjo go together or is there 1 above the loop for the coolant line and then one under it ? 🤔
@@velvetman49O HI, I don't recall, it's been a few years. Besure to cover the alternator with a towel.....
gonna give this a shot ive been fighting this bolt for hours, i got the head on and off quicker lolol
This shit sucks I hate Volvo
It says in the description to put banjo bolt on before reinstalling the intake manifold
My family has only driven Volvos for the last 30 years. I have been dealing with FCP for at least 20 yrs and only ONE order was ever wrong (I'm NOT Kidding!) They know their stuff as well as any Factory Trained Volvo Tech. I know because I was taught by 2 ASE Cert. Volvo Factory trained mechanics over the years. FCP has supported the Volvo community and I encourage anyone watching this video to support them in any way that you can. The reason I say that is because it's getting harder finding quality parts for Volvos w/out going to the dealer and paying an arm or a leg, waiting for days for it to be either imported or shipped from a hub. Or even worse No longer available.
One thing I like about Volvo vs other European manufacturers is that they don't engineer their cars to require only special tools to provide proper service, making it easier for us shade tree/amateur mechanics to drive and maintain our cars for a fraction of dealer service costs. You'd be amazed at how often people tell me that "they can't afford to drive a Volvo" I silently say to myself that I couldn't either with my decent blue-collar wage.
BTW: I am in NO WAY affiliated with FCP or any other sponsers, sellers or manufacturers.
I maintain my family's fleet of 6 Volvos, dwindled down from 9. Yes , it's a sickness and I hope you catch it too!
Aaron Whitesell I just bought my second one in my driveway last week. It’s an addiction
Hey Aaron, any chance you’re in the Chicago area?
Got 5 T5’s. I’m buying parts from FCP weekly. Yes my wife thinks I’m sick. Latest: 05 XC90 I think it needs PCV done 161k miles
Just replaced my PCV today, but replaced the whole coolant line along with the pcv system. That thing was a b**** but this video helped tremendously. I'd suggest using that part from the T6 instead of replacing the whole piece. Thanks FCPEURO!!!!
Wonderful job, and good job explaining every step. I'm very happy to see you cleaned up the area a bit for the customer rather than throwing everything back together dirty as hell like some shops. The extra mile always counts for the customer!
Because it's being recorded. Lol
Right, except he's not considering torque specs properly at any means. That was hard to watch, either under torqued or damaging thread tension
Excellent video, nice step-by-step. Suggestions: when cleaning out sludge, etc., use a shop vac to remove the debris instead of compressed air so you don't blow debris into ports, etc. Also fill the intake ports with rags before cleaning the gasket surface so you don't get crud into the engine. Helpful videos like this are why I am a loyal FCP customer.
Thanks for the great tips and for being a loyal FCP Euro customer, Dirk!
I use my older shop vac for the coolant when ever it needs to be removed,..works almost as good as the Volvo Coolant extraction and fill system
I had the same concerns, great video otherwise.
Man, our boy J looking a little tired after that job! Great video, man! Thanks for doing this for us.
THANK YOU so much for making these videos. I have a 2003 S60 with 324,000+ and it's still going strong. These vids are a HUGE help and I only get parts from FCP because I trust the quality. Thanks again.
I am currently changing the head gasket on one of these cars. This video is a huge help in removing the intake manifold.
How did you get to the bolt under the thermostat
Hey, I just want to say thank you for such a detailed quality video on this PCV job. I just followed your steps and went through the process fairly easily. Without this video I wouldn't even have tried doing it myself. I'm very grateful!
You're welcome!
@@fcpeuro do you have a link or name of those hose clamp crimping pliers???? They look amazing.
Adding my two cents worth. Buy the two piece fuel line to rail retaining clip! It will break! Buy the banjo bolt, it will be blocked and the tube WILL be broken. If the bottom hole in the block is clogged, before you remove the sump try to poke through with flexible wire, non flammable brake cleaner, shop vac and a blow gun! The one I've just done took over an hour to unclog that hole but at least I don't have to remove the sump!!! COVER ALL the holes, tubes etc. with rags, paper towels, bags etc. If you don't and you drop anything down an intake tube, for example, you are going to have a REALLY, REALLY bad day! Try not to use an air gun on alloy engines you will eventually strip a thread. If your car is 15 years old with 200k + you will most likely find one or two broken injectors, so plan on buying a set! Old EV1 injectors are notorious for breaking the plastic washers on the tip holding the O ring. The one I'm doing now (05 with 208k miles) has two broken injectors so the whole set is being replaced. Also don't just change the bottom O rings on the injectors, change the top ones as well. They come in the PCV kit from FCP. If I think of anything else I will add to this post.
Just finished doing my car now.. I followed u jason, step by step, and made it.. Thank u very much. Also thank u fcp for the right parts u gave me.. Cheers
I'm jealous... Nice job
How did you get your intake bolts loose on tbe bottom?
@@crazychivez hi, u need an extender for ur socket.. The hardest is the one near the waterpump, either u loosen the hose and use a flexible socket extension or remove the waterhose
Very good explanation of the entire job from start to finish. It will be a great help. What would also assist is show all the tools used during the video at the end, so we can see all those necessary for the job.
Just completely did the PCV system replacement and I am here to help other people
I have a 05 S60R but same for all the turbo P2s
This video is a good start but he doesn't do the ENTIRE system, this is essentially a half job, for anyone trying to do the whole job, this is to help you
Once you get the box off and the pipe disconnected you must now move on to the right and back of the engine by the turbo. There is a slightly larger banjo bolt on the right side of the block, and a PTC connection to the turbo inlet pipe, you must reach in and disconnect the larger banjo bolt with a socket or a box wrench, then once you do youll probably lose the copper crush washers on the old one, thats fine. Next up, coolant is going to go everywhere. Sorry. It's going to go everywhere. the PTC connection is air so youre fine. Then tug the pipe and get it out. At this point comes the hard part, you must disconnect the battery positive terminal and move all the wiring out of the way, coilpacks and all, also your airbox should be off at this point. Now you've got some more room, shove the new pipe back there and connect the PTC line onto the turbo inlet pipe, you can screw the clamp now but i waited til i threaded on and tightened the new banjo bolt. Remember this is the biggest banjo bolt and you must have a copper crush washer before the bolt and after on either side, you know what i mean. Which makes getting this thing on a b****. Not only that but even with the wiring out of the way barely one hand will fit back there. So now push against the pipe behind the engine to force the front of it toward the coolant hose more, you'll get it once you are there. Its difficult but it must be done, finally tighten the banjo bolt and then the clamp on the PTC connection. Once you've got that you're over the hump and its uphill from there its just putting stuff back together.
Also, you should replace that whole banjo pipe assembly with a new updated version for 08+ where few hoses got slightly bigger which could probably lessen the likelihood of those getting clogged again at higher mileage. Then just use synthetic oil ever again!
I now only need to add 10 more tools to my box!
How to fix anything in a Volvo easy steps.
Step 1: disassemble the whole damn car.
Try to fix anything in modern car. After 2 hrs you are going to look for an axe 😎 Volvo is mostly very nice car to service.
@@korbendallas102 True. All modern cars drive you crazy as soon as you need to do maintenance or repairs.
Can hardly think of anything easier to work on than an old Volvo.
Just replaced the radiator on my 2.3 t5 with tranny intercooler and condensor attached to it… what a fucking beach. I had all stages of grief.
@stefancgxz7799 you are a patient person then.
@@harryk771 not gonna lie, at one point I went nuts, but needed my car for work the next day. A 2.5 hour job turned into an 8 hour job lmao. Funny how you can’t pull the radiator out because of the handles of the intercoolet, but yet you have no room to pull them out both at once… great system.
What an awesome video, thank you guys for making quality content and supplying quality parts!
Just picked up my 2005 XC70 and I'm getting ready to do this job.
Thank you!!!!ª job done on a 2005 volvo xc90 2.5l turbo I followed all the steps and replaced the parts, the check engine light was cleared. P2178 codes are gone!!!! I m very happy!!! Thank you again!!!!
This video made changing made changing my clogged canister easy - Thanks for the Volvo part number for the PCV - nipple mine was cracked and clogged. Great Video !!
Great video J, very thorough...about to tackle this job myself!
This video was great! I just finished up the job. That banjo bolt kicked my butt. I spent about an hour trying to get it off and another hour trying to get it on during the reassemble. It took me about 7 hours total for the whole job but I don't have all of the fancy tools used in the video.
Do not tighten bolts, leave some wiggle room, so you can't get ahead of yourself and have to redo to loosen. I'd rather look at it for 10 minutes than to struggle for 20.
For others, ask ahead of forums how is better to do put back the banjo bolt. A few members have figured out a few tricks
Just used this guide heavily to fix my 02 xc70, I ended up dropping the pan because the oil return passage was totally gummed up, but now it's running like a champ, thanks!
Hello Eli, how involved was the oil pan removal, cleaning and re-installation? I may be doing this job soon on a 2004 XC70 and just want to be prepared.
This is what I call a tutorial!
Excellent job man! It seems so easy when you do it! this is a complicated job but your video helps a lot, thank you!!!👍👍👍
You're welcome!
What a great video! I used to do a lot of car work but haven't in a long time. Decided to take on dropping pan and replacing the oil breather system. Had this video on a table right next to me. Great step-by-step, forward and backwards. I even used the T6 replacement plastic piece, thanks to you. Interestingly, you mention re-attaching the valve and banjo bolt, but didn't actually video step. HINT TO ALL: Re-attach before you mount the manifold! Thanks again.
Glad it was helpful! And thanks for the note for future DIY'ers ,we've added that into the description.
Nice. I don't plan to do it myself, but it gives me an idea of the effort. My indie Volvo mechanic has been raking me lately. I've got visible smoke from the dipstick tube
Doing this right now, the nipple broke when trying to take that banjo bolt out. Saved me a hassle though, and I already had a replacement thanks to this video !
Glad the video helped!
Great video! Good tip on the Volvo part from the T-6 to replace that banjo bolt pipe instead of the entire hose assembly.
great video, this is on my to-do list in the very near future
Wow, you make that look easy. Nice tutorial. I am sure it is a lot harder for most of us to do.
Just finished this job on a recently purchased 2006 XC90 with 205,000 miles. Disassembly wasn't too bad, took about 2 hours. Reassembly took much longer (5 hours) though I was going slow and spent some extra time cleaning up the area and replacing broken wire loom. The lower opening on my oil trap was 100% clogged, much much worse than the one in the video here. I sprayed compressed air through the lower opening in the engine block and was unable to hear any oil or feel any air coming out of the filler cap or other holes. I decided to skip dropping the pan and just put it all back together. Once complete, I started it up and did the glove test which it passed with flying colors! The engine sucks in the glove now as it should. So I am not sure if I need to drop the pan after all? Maybe now that I cleared most of the system, the last little bit that was clogged in the pan cleared itself?
If you are about to tackle this job, spend some time and make sure you have all the parts AND tools you will need. One thing that is easy to skip is hose clamps. You will need a lot of hose clamps. I used a set I bought from Harbor Freight. They are the reusable type, not the one time use ones used in the video.
This is my first involved job on a vehicle. So far the hardest thing i’ve done is install my boost gauge, lol. Im about to take intake manifold off. Really not too bad of a job if you work on it over the span of a week or two. Take an hour to work then revisit the next day. Saving me lots by not taking to a dealer. Also seeing this guy put all the bolts up on the cover in front of the windshield wiper blades makes me anxious lmao i have all mine in labeled bags
This is one of the very best instructional video I have seen. I owned a S70GLT before and I know even replacing a tiny parts in a Volvo, you have to remove everything in the car to get to it and most of the things in the path were fragile and could break while someone is doing that. Another example is the evaporator for the air conditioning. Volvo parts are not built to fail, that's from my experience.
What a fantastic video and job. Will be doing this job based on this video, cheers.
Thank-you for your great tutorial videos. Very well done, and excellent advice. Has saved me lots of money and aggravation.
You're a legend J.
Thanks for the great video. I did the job on a 2003 S60 The video makes it lot easer for me . Greetings from Holland.
Just bought a 2002 V70 with 134 000 miles and watched this video.
God damn! It seems like Volvo suspended av PCV system in the air and built an engine around it. Happy mine runs fine with no fault codes.
Great video, having big problems removing the banjo boot underneath the manifold. Bolt won't budge. ETM is showing faults. One step away from completing both jobs.
Great video easy to listen to and understand, You cannot go wrong following your instruction, If you are totally Inept by all means take it to your mechanic !!
Thanks for the video and tips. The kit you guys sent had a smaller version of the short tube that hooks up the engine body on the Breather box. A flexible tube, not the ring gasket thing that attaches rigidly to the breather box and the Engine body. I managed to reuse the old one. It appears it was far too small in diameter to fit the engine. I now have a newfound hatred for the crimp ring gaskets tho so that's a plus.
Side note tho, it appeared that my PVC box and system were not too gummed up. Not sure if this is because I've run Royal Purple in this engine for the last 5000 miles. My issue still appears to be with the miss-timing of one of the cylinders. 2 or 4 on an I5. Sometimes during acceleration above 40mph the engine will sputter and I will drop engine power. I've run a bottle of Lucas fule injector cleaner through the fule injectors and they look very clean. I did the "Lisen with a screwdriver trick" on the back of the fule injectors and they appear to all be firing. I've tried swapping out new coils, granted I use junkyard salvaged ones. It still does not appear to be these. New spark plugs were just put in 3000 miles ago. Shouldn't be those.
great and thorough video-thanks
I like the way you do the job clean pro Thanks for the video
Love your videos. Very informative. I replaced the whole pcv kit with the big hose on our s60r.
Glad you found it informative!
At 7:30 that is a critical check. Even without a compressed air hose, get a regular hose and blow air by mouth: you should hear the oil bubbling inside the oil pan. If you don't hear it, chances are that oil passage is blocked and 'you must' remove the pan as Jason says, if you don't clean that passage, even with a new PCV box you'll get the engine main and cam seals blown. This is DIY on non turbo engine czcams.com/video/3fEjbMpVSfo/video.html and more details on accessing the bolts czcams.com/video/8CIVJu5E-Sk/video.html
Just curious cant you just do an oil change immediately after to flush out the crud?
@@Elliot9874 I am curious about that as well.
Awesome tip 😎. After watching video on taking the pan off, I can't tell you how thrilled that was to hear that oil a bubbling.
The passage from the Box to inside the Pan can only be cleaned by removing the Pan. I am far from a pro and pulled the pan. It is very messy like mega messy I love dirty jobs. Invest in paper towels and cleaner.
In one of your videos you do a plastic bag test on the oil cap opening. My 2004 XC70 does not have suction. So this video is how I fix that right? The whole PCV system?
that's a verry fine job you did there,a lot off work but professional done.
Thanks for the Video!
Thanks for a great video, Jay does an awesome presentation. My V60 has 240K on it and the trap was plugged. I would suggest replacing the evaporator hoses and valves while I am under there. Also a 10 mm Crowsfoot wrenched taped on the end of a ratchet extension will get the far left lower bolt, of the intake, loose and tight. Cheaper then a Wobble socket
That is a good idea. I struggled for a while with that bolt and fortunately have a set of higher quality 1/4" drive extensions with the semi-wobble end that gave just enough wiggle to get it on. The video poster looks to have stubby wobble sockets. Not something you can pick up at the local parts store.
Great vid, as always. That last bolt on the lower passenger side for the intake seems just about impossible to get off without removing the stat housing but Jay has a better wobble socket extension than me (which makes sense). I just ended up yanking the stat housing and getting a pseudo coolant change out of the deal.
I want to know what wobble socket that is. I want to buy it. Some 10mm 3/8" drive wobble socket.
I recently replaced the thermostat housing with a "non Volvo" housing. No way was this bolt coming out. I had to pull it also.
Very good video. Thank u jason
It seems every European car is designed in such a way that it has to go back to the dealership for most services. This is a lot of work to get to this box to replace it. This video makes it look easy, but I'm sure it will take me 4 days instead of 4 hours. Thanks for the video, it's well made.
You're welcome!
Helped even with a P80 set up, to hell with that banjo bolt!! Didn't have a 17 stubby so with some patients and some persuasive words I got it with a 3/8 wrench and a 17mm socket!
another brill step by step video jay ,you always make these look easy but at least you do give note at end that it is a bigger job.great videos .
Best Volvo video ever.
So will there be a video for dropping the oil pan coming? :) Tackling the PCV tomorrow - praying I don't have to drop the pan. Well done video.
This is July from California, I thank you for all you video that had help me completed my repair for my Volvo S60 2001. Would be niece if you can do one for how to remove the bracket that hold the power steering pump, alternator, and a/c compressor. Thank you
Super nice job. Congratulations. Thank you.
You're welcome!
Just got a 2007 XC70 and PCV needed to be changed. Changed the PCV but it looks like I will have to drop the oil pan as well. Do you by chance have any video or information about what I'd be looking for and how to clean that passageway? Thanks a lot for this great video which helped me do the PCV change.
This might be the best route to take when cleaning the throttle body too. Nice 👍🏾
You can remove the throttle body without removing the intake by removing the fan and air box!
Thanks for the video! It gave me the confidence to do myself.
We love to hear that! You are very welcome, Ben!
This was an absolutely amazing video. I thank you so much. Very clear and precise. I just bought a 2009 and I think I need to deal with the PCV system. 🙌
Happy wrenching!
Excellent video.
I just did my volvo xc90 2004 these video help me a lot
car is running much better am sure these repair fix a few others already. thanks
You're welcome Miguel. Glad to hear the videos helped.
Hi miguel, where did you bought the parts?
Fantastic video FCP Euro, thanks a lot!
You're very welcome, hansduiven! Glad you like the video!
Beautiful video
Great video by the way
Genius.its easy to watch n you helping a lot.thank you man.
You are very welcome, Bereket. Happy to help!
Perfectly made video thanks for Saving me from blowing up my car
You're not kidding, Daniel! Happy we could help, glad you like the video!
From tech to tech, I love you
We love you too, Vito.
Thanks for your help.
Great video!
good video..step by step clearly shown ..thank you
You're welcome, Ja Gan. Happy to help!
I did this on my 2004 Volvo S60 at 104,000 miles and the access hole was 100% plugged. I did take off the oil pan (very easy compared to most other cars) and the breather channel was clogged there too. It is a square shape channel. I believe you need to take off the oil plan to get the whole system unclogged.
This is an INSANE amount of work for this part. WHY did Volvo USE this system?! I want to do this but would never have the actual time....dang it Volvo.
crazy way over engineered. why did n t they use a simpl pcv sys like american cars
thanks a lot for this video, just bought an s80 t6, and it starts to smell of burnt oil when its getting warm. think its this thats causes the smell
3½ hours...that would take me 3½ days.
Guy is so mellow🍁
Never doubt yourself. I'm no mechanic and after watching the mello fello I can probably do it in under a month!
🤣🤣🤣 jkjk... But seriously, probably 5 hours at most in my back yard with manual tools. You don't wanna strip the block
It took me about 6 because i could not get to the lower leftmost intake bolt... the job is so easy besides that one bolt.
@@crazychivez How did you finally end up getting the bolt loosened and tightened back up?
@@notny411 theres a video on here that shows you how to do it with 1/4 sockets and hes in a junkyard. But thats how i did it
Excellent instruction. You may want to use coconut oil on the fittings if you need to, because silicone base lubricant contaminates AFR and narrow band O2 sensors, and cause mixture control, drivability problems and $$$ for replacement. Many O2 sensor oem suppliers have published data showing this, NTK, Denso, etc. Returned "defective" sensors showed in lab tests to be "silicone poisoned", as the leading cause of early failure. I try to assemble dry any plumbing on an intake system that utilizes oxygen sensors, w/b or n/b. Otherwise, it is one of the best vids that deal with this issue clearly.
Thanks for the tips!
Thanks! Did it thanks to that video... But many things were different or harder than expected after that video. Many Bolt were harder to reach. Many Clambs were hard to clamb after doing it the wrong sequence.
Thanks for the overview. Changed my PVC on my 04 S60 non turbo.
BTW, the bottom PVC box bolt has to be removed/installed by feel as you cant see it & requires extensions with narrow 10mm socket (no shoulder) as there is not a lot of extra room.
Or you can just rip out the trap with the bolt still fastened. The only thing that breaks is the old oil trap. Then you have excellent line of sight to the bolt.
This took me about an hour until I could get the right socket/extension combination. What a whore of a task on an already pain in the ass job.
A very good video from a obviously great Tech..
Thanks, Arick! Jay was a Volvo tech for many years, glad you could recognize his experience!
Thank you So much for this video! I used it throughout the whole process and now my high-mileage (over 250K) 2006 runs like new! No more idle issues or surging. WOOHOO! FCP Euro is the shiznit!
That's awesome! Glad to hear your car is running like new, Jill!
did it smell of burnt oil when it got warm ?
Hi Jill. How long did it take you to replace it? I have a 2004 Volvo XC70 with 250k and using oil like crazy. Did you have problems taking off the banjo bolt. Are there any other issues I should know. I like females do there own car repairs.
What to help me? Lol thanks
@@lassenielsen4340 I did have oil coming out around the cap- too much pressure, so it was burning oil off the engine. That's to be expected anytime you have any kind of blow-by.
@@donaldzupko7810 Honestly, I had more trouble getting the banjo bolt back on than off. Side note: Ratcheting wrenches and wobble joints are your friends! Be sure to check the box for the new washer, too! The entire job took several hours that I ended up splitting between two days. Not a hard job, even though it digs pretty deep into the engine compartment. Just keep track of what goes where and bolt placement, etc.. FCP Euro's guide is excellent for the step-by-step. When you have the intake manifold off, be sure to check the vacuum hoses that are normally tucked under it. Mine was about the same mileage and had some that were collapsed and crumbly. You should definitely clean your throttle body while you're there, too! It's an excellent opportunity to take care of any kind of normally hidden maintenance. Go step by step, reference the video anytime you have a question or a doubt and you'll be fine.
man i wish someone hooked my car up with all that professional love haha
Thanks man i learned Alot
that was amazing explanation and work detail I like to do it but donot got the tools on my vol s60 r guess got to see the doctor at the shop PR Auto haas in Lodi Ca
ok so my car part (ignition antenna) came 3 days too early wtf lol anyway Jason I own a 2002 S60 and would be lost without you..car runs awesome but sometimes you just have to get dirty I love my car has over 200k on it and plan on getting 200 more. Thanks for all you do ....my top 3 youtubers for cars are you , Kilmer and Chris fixx with a little eric the car guy if it's not one of you guys I won't watch
Thank you for the kind words Sean. We're glad to hear you found the DIYs helpful.
good job
Wow so much work. Thanks for vid.
You're welcome!
What 'Silicone Grease' to use ?
any materials+tools list that I can use for purchasing prepping for the job?
My car failed the check at 730 no air blows tru the oil cap. I got to drop the pan fuark! So just drop it and clean? Should i replace anything when i drop the pan?
Very very good
Thanks so much for the Video! Can part #30731007 be cleaned some-how on or off the vehicle? Maybe soaking it in solvent or a degreaser and using a thin wire and air pressure through the hose to clear it?
You don't need to buy a $50+ Snap On Wobble socket to get to the left bottom intake manifold bolt.
It was much easier to remove the Thermostat which gives you full access to the bolt.
Also; you're half assing it if you don't replace all the PCV parts. I got the complete PCV tubing/parts/box including the one he did surgery on rigged for $100 at Parts Geek. ,
Part #: SK121453 for a 2007 XC70
Thanks for the video. I would really like to see a diy video about how to replace Clutch on a Volvo S60 2000-2008. That would be great!
Woah man. You made this alot easier for me! I'm gonna change my girlfriends pcv out for her
Glad we can help, Tommy!
Have you used 1/4 or 3/8 ratchets, and which extensions (besides the one you explicitly showed) and special ratchets did you use? Also, roughly, in which range are the highest torques in this video (I'm asking this to see if 1/4 ratchet can handle them)? Thank you!
This guy a pro
great video. swapped out my old breather box and hoses with a new one. that banjo bolt was tough. question: should it be difficult to start the vehicle back up when all is back together? it sounds like fuel isn’t getting to my engine. could it be because the fuel rail is empty or filled with air? thanks!