I bought a 94 camaro with a clogged heater core. It took me about 14 hours of flushing, I filled a fifty five gallon drum with wasted flush water. Once it was completely done and the heat worked great, i was so proud of it.
Hint for anyone reading: remove the in and out lines to the heater core. Figure which way is the normal flow. Then do the opposite with low PSI. search: flush Heater core for this.
Question to anyone?? I have a broken coolant cooler in my radiator. I pulled it out. I almost caught all of the aTF but a tad got into it...just droplets of pink in overflow and circulating. I want to flush the whole system using the old busted radiator, if I can get it cleaned of all ATF, off the car? Of course I will plug off the two ATF holes., When I stick it back in to flush. Do u think I can get the radiator clean from all of the ATF, if I keep flushing it off the car? Then replace it to do a real flush w turning the car on and flushing the whole system then drain a few times. I want to get at the water pump area...to make sure no ATF is anywhere before I replace the radiator w a new one.
I liked the old way we used to flush cooling systems,prestone sold the kit to hook into a heater hose that tied into the intake I believe, hook you garden hose to it, it had a angle adaptor you put in the radiator neck turn on the hose start engine and run it, it would clear up, rev engine a few times and it would get dirty again, flush until it was all clean. I did have to replace some freeze plugs ever now and again
No it doesn’t, it just runs the ac compressor for no reason when ur using the heat, the mode door has nothing to do with the blend door, all the “max ac” button is is a recirc button (blows a tiny bit harder)
@@braedendaniel6261 That's how it is on most Fords, but on the Ranger in this vid there is an actual heater control valve which closes when you have Max A/C selected, blocking the coolant from reaching the heater core. This is an addition to the recirc door opening. In Normal A/C and most other settings the valve is open. To flush the heater core on a Ranger you need to use a setting that's designed to blow hot air i.e. not Max A/C
@@braedendaniel6261 no lol recirculating the air makes it easier to heat or cool, u know besides the cold/hot air from outside that's not conditioned.
I did a radiator flush on mine with the same engine and the radiator was still full of large chunks of rust. There is a good chance it will still overheat especially with the Aircon running.
I use liquid dishwasher detergent, run it for 15 mins, let it sit for an hour, flush out with water, filler back up with DI, and run for 15, rest for an hour, drain, and then filler up with coolant at your chosen mix.
I had to take heater hose off top pipe to engine side of thermostat. Used suction gun to suck out old antifreeze both directions. Then pumped in distilled water. Drained. Did this several times to get all dex-cool out. Then filled with Prestone 10 year. 3.5 chevy engine.
You don't have to turn it to MAX AC, that turns the compressor on for no reason. No need to turn the fan to the max either. Just need to be on heat to open the flow control valve.
I feel the pain. Have 94 gmc sierra, radiator clogged, doubt if ever flushed. Have flushed it at least 8 times. Water is circulating but may still have to replace radiator.
Lol look at everyone defending themselves. Every town has different water. Would you add flint MI water to your car? Or Brooklyn water? Some of the most contaminated water there is. If you want to add tap water and reduce the life of your engine (proof over several studies and mechanics stories) then go for it. I just prefer to extend the life of my engine, water pump, radiator, thermostat, heater core, and so on. Some times you won’t have issues and sometimes you will. But the chances of having little to no issues is far far less with the proper coolant and flush method.
Harbor freight. Buy their liquid pump, a garden hose, some brass fittings and thermacure. I have purged the worst milkshakes you could ever imagine from cars. After a few runs, I get water so clean I can drink. There’s many ways to do flushes, but I always found having to run the car the most tedious. My way cycles the water through the car system and out into a waste tub and the next cycle can immediately be initiated. A full flush is only a few minutes, with me just sticking the hose in between tubs. Minimal effort, minimal time.
When you flush your shit like that do not use mix coolant. You will end up weak on freeze/boil. Water in the block and heads you can't get out without taking out a welch plug, or having a petcock on the block.
You can clean cooling fluid reservoir with HCL and water in 1:4 up to 1:2 ratio. Remove the reservoir first of course and use goggles and gloves if you dont want acid in eyes. I filled it with solution and let it sit and after that i shaked it violently few minutes to get rid of the biggest stains. Its 29 years old an now its clear like new again.
dishwashing liquid and tap water, take thermostat out drive for an hour heater on full hot and any fan setting rinse it out with plain water, do drive for an hour again, then reverse flush with hose, drain, install new thermostat and gasket, refill with distilled water and coolant. will be all good unless you have a blown head gasket or your radiator is full of crud, in which case replace it
@@Colt45hatchback the head gasket was blowing it wasn't quite blown out replaced it heater core and rad but flushed engine out first it was a mess ,I'll try the dish liquid next time I run across the same thing again,thanks
@@Ancientcaptain no worries, i bought a landcruiser that had been parked since 1997 a couple years back, cooling system was entirely clogged with rust scale, took about 4 flushes (dish liquid+water, water, dishliquid+water, water) to get it clean, but it came up real well, even the rear heater works (they usually get blocked or leak) really handy for a budget or when you just need to get something done now without going and buying something
He is running the heater to bleed the air out of the heater core and for the heater core water to be flushed out. Heater cores are small radiator that sit behind your dash. Hot water from the radiator runs thru this heater core then air get blown thru it giving you heat.
@@915Performance Ahh, okay, the bleeding I can understand now. Thank you. I was thinking he was trying to "heat up" the radiator, which obviously made no sense to turn on the cabin heat.. Because I remember (back in the good old days) My dad made us turn ON the cabin heat to cool down the car from overheating... So there we were, all baking in a hot car, in slow moving traffic, cooking ourselves.. But, I always remembered that we did it, and the reasons why... (Though, we have never had a car do that ever since)...
@@ColinRichardson Yeah the heater core is just a small radiator used to heat warm up the cabin, so in the event of an over heating car it can help cool it down a little more
@@QuincyStick Yeah, the heat has to go somewhere... And has to come from somewhere.. It was just I was mistaken over the reason for the cabin heat.. Bleeding the radiator makes sense and corrects my misunderstanding.
@@richardcurtis2688 yeah but honestly just running the car is easier. Plus you most likely didn't get ALL of the water out of the block, but at that point you've gotten enough of it out that it doesn't matter
@@QuincyStick We're talking shitboxes here LoL. In my youth I drove a lot of beaters so it didn't matter much to me. Now I'd take a bit more care, but back then it didn't matter. I was invincible back then LoL
My wife's 2011 Subaru Forester has the same issue! The oil seeps into the coolant line and when you open the radiator cap, it looks like a light green milkshake lol That's partially why we're going to trade it in once we get the title bc it's paif off now lol
Lmk if this is a good one my radiator blew a hose had all the hoses fixed mechanic did a radiator flush 2 weeks later my radiator blew brought it back to the mechanic had them fix it clearly I don't even have any coolant left in the reservoir or in the hoses because it blew right through the radiator . And then was told I needed to do another radiator flush. For $150 lmao is that scam or am I tripping ??
@MattsShop well idk I would of kept flushing it personally but u can understand if the radiator is just shot. At least you tried 👍 better then this owner did clearly
I just did a job similar to that. I thought my radiator was oxidizing, reason: There was brownish Gunk and foam in my reservoir. After doing a flush, there was incandescent coloring in my coolant similar to that of oil. Did a bit of research and found out it was the Engine Oil cooler. Spent $80.00 on parts, and 6 hours taking alternator, compressor, exhaust struts and thermostat out. Doing it myself saved me about $2,000.00.
@balkee42 not yet. Ima do a coolant flush and test the head gasket to make sure it's not blown. Then if it still continues I'll probly swap the radiator to make sure it's not the cooler line broken inside.
Bro i didt not flush my ranger like that i filled it then turned on the petcock before filling with coolant and used the funnel and u watch the bubbles go down then add to the resvoir just to top off and u can vaccum out the gunk in the resevoir instead of washing it into the radiator all in all he did an ok job but not very thorough
Can it also clean water mineral build up? My uncle gave me an old car now I'm restore it so I can daily drive it. But the problem is he's been using tap water for the engine, when I opened the cylinder head it's full of water mineral. I took out most of it by brushing. But I can clean the small channels with my brush.
Last time I changed me coolant, I insisted on making the radiator as clean as possible I had to flush the radiator over 8 times, and still the water wasn't as clean as I wanted, I had to move on
I have often found the water pump seal to start leaking shortly after a flush. Not sure if it's the chemicals that deteriorate the old seal, or if it's the loosened rust and stuff that tear at the seal, or possibly both. I also remove thermostat and turn on heat during flush and rinse. I also run the defrost and watch for fogging of the windshield to check for a bad heater core. when I'm rinsing I crack open the radiator drain about half way and put the garden hose in top and adjust water flow to keep up with the drain. I do this for about twenty minutes after it drains clear. install new thermostat, gasket, coolent, and new cap. I know I'm anal but it's my car, my investment.
Couldn’t you have took out the thermostat and do the open hose deal unhooking the bottom hose and putting fresh water in the top hose connected to thermostat…… also start it off and on for 5 times till clear.
Why do you use the hose, and not distilled water from the start to finish? The harsh elements that you are trying to remove are still going to be in there, and using distilled water from the beginning to the finish fill/top-off will eleveate, if not eliminate them.
radiator flush is a waste of money just flush it heat cycle drain and repeat. as for the reservoir dont be lazy take it off and clean it properly. close all the exits stick some rice in it close it up and shake
I used toilet bowl cleaner… lol.. just run it ten minutes, drain and flush with fresh water.. do not leave it in too long unless u You want your aluminum parts to melt..😂
What a Mess!
Prestone Radiator Flush: amzn.to/3kNuCbo
Glad we flushed this radiator!
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I bought a 94 camaro with a clogged heater core. It took me about 14 hours of flushing, I filled a fifty five gallon drum with wasted flush water. Once it was completely done and the heat worked great, i was so proud of it.
I'm just about to do this on my 94. Good lord I hope it doesn't take me 14 hours.
Hint for anyone reading: remove the in and out lines to the heater core. Figure which way is the normal flow. Then do the opposite with low PSI. search: flush Heater core for this.
what were the symptoms? i have a 01 that blows no heat
This only happens when you use water and tap water to top off....you should only use engine coolant and change on time to prevent this!
Question to anyone??
I have a broken coolant cooler in my radiator. I pulled it out. I almost caught all of the aTF but a tad got into it...just droplets of pink in overflow and circulating. I want to flush the whole system using the old busted radiator, if I can get it cleaned of all ATF, off the car? Of course I will plug off the two ATF holes., When I stick it back in to flush.
Do u think I can get the radiator clean from all of the ATF, if I keep flushing it off the car? Then replace it to do a real flush w turning the car on and flushing the whole system then drain a few times. I want to get at the water pump area...to make sure no ATF is anywhere before I replace the radiator w a new one.
Just turn on the vent and the heat. You don't need to run the AC compressor for the heater .
How u gonna flush the refrigerant then ya friggen idjiot?!?!
“Laterrrr 💅”
LATERRR!😘
💀
LMAO
Love that, keep it going! Laterrrr y’all!
I liked the old way we used to flush cooling systems,prestone sold the kit to hook into a heater hose that tied into the intake I believe, hook you garden hose to it, it had a angle adaptor you put in the radiator neck turn on the hose start engine and run it, it would clear up, rev engine a few times and it would get dirty again, flush until it was all clean. I did have to replace some freeze plugs ever now and again
I still have the one my stepdad, a master mechanic, used for idk how many decades and love it. Saw 1 on the shelf at an old parts store locally
If you had to replace freeze plug because of the pressure of a garden hose they were probably already headed out the door
@@bravo55286 it was because of all the rust and corrosion build up, and yes the customer was charged
Had nothing to do with pressure
dont forget to back flush the heater core while you're at it
They always forget that 🤣 also i put 2 caps of oil on my new coolant.
Back flushing doesn't always work.
@@ADHDcisGinger i know 🙈 changing that heat exchangers is were the whole dash needs to go 🙈
What’s that mean? Steps do it it please. Thank you!
Plus on this Ranger/Explorer the heater core flow is shut off on Max A/C…
That prestone stuff works amazing but I did the drive 3 hours with it inside the radiator and flushed it 3 times and the water was super clear
The max ac on fords blocks coolant to the heater core. Good job, heater core is not flushed.
No it doesn’t, it just runs the ac compressor for no reason when ur using the heat, the mode door has nothing to do with the blend door, all the “max ac” button is is a recirc button (blows a tiny bit harder)
@@braedendaniel6261 That's how it is on most Fords, but on the Ranger in this vid there is an actual heater control valve which closes when you have Max A/C selected, blocking the coolant from reaching the heater core. This is an addition to the recirc door opening. In Normal A/C and most other settings the valve is open. To flush the heater core on a Ranger you need to use a setting that's designed to blow hot air i.e. not Max A/C
If you payed attention, he switch the settings the second time while saying "same settings"
@@braedendaniel6261 no lol recirculating the air makes it easier to heat or cool, u know besides the cold/hot air from outside that's not conditioned.
@@Pain1x that is the function of a recirc door, but for whatever reason 90% of cars will will blow a tiny bit harder on recirculate, try it tomorrow
I did a radiator flush on mine with the same engine and the radiator was still full of large chunks of rust. There is a good chance it will still overheat especially with the Aircon running.
I use liquid dishwasher detergent, run it for 15 mins, let it sit for an hour, flush out with water, filler back up with DI, and run for 15, rest for an hour, drain, and then filler up with coolant at your chosen mix.
Liquid dishwasher detergent works better than those store bought bottles. If I was desperate, I'd use CLR.
The mud is caused by mixing coolants and improper maintenance less than fallout from the coolant loop jtself.
I had to take heater hose off top pipe to engine side of thermostat. Used suction gun to suck out old antifreeze both directions. Then pumped in distilled water. Drained. Did this several times to get all dex-cool out. Then filled with Prestone 10 year. 3.5 chevy engine.
You don't have to turn it to MAX AC, that turns the compressor on for no reason. No need to turn the fan to the max either. Just need to be on heat to open the flow control valve.
You say “same settings”. But you change it from max heat, & max ac to floor heat w/ no ac
A/C has nothing too do with the heating system, they're 2 separate systems.
@@clintadams8451 apparently wrong, on the ford rannger it does block the coolant
Pull the drain plug(s) on the engine. You will get more of the nasty stuff out.
Everyone is always like "Turn Heat on Max!"... Like it's 1950 again and it has Mechanica Cables actuating Coolant flow thru heater core, lol.
I feel the pain. Have 94 gmc sierra, radiator clogged, doubt if ever flushed. Have flushed it at least 8 times. Water is circulating but may still have to replace radiator.
Look up the gates Flushing tool that uses air over water
What does turning on the AC have to do with it?
I get the heat thing, some cars have a shutoff valve going to the heater core.
Max heat max AC... Ok....
The AC setting just dehumidifies the wet hot air.
Never use tap water. There is a reason every shop and dealership recommends distilled water.
It doesn't do much, maybe in 20 years of doing it yes but not instantly
I've used tap water and coolant concentrate in my car for the last 17yrs, never had any corrosion like that.
They recommend it so they can up charge $10 per gallon for a $1 gallon of distilled
My hose waters doing mighty fine with the 5 dollar cheap antifreeze i put in
Lol look at everyone defending themselves. Every town has different water. Would you add flint MI water to your car? Or Brooklyn water? Some of the most contaminated water there is. If you want to add tap water and reduce the life of your engine (proof over several studies and mechanics stories) then go for it. I just prefer to extend the life of my engine, water pump, radiator, thermostat, heater core, and so on. Some times you won’t have issues and sometimes you will. But the chances of having little to no issues is far far less with the proper coolant and flush method.
Harbor freight. Buy their liquid pump, a garden hose, some brass fittings and thermacure. I have purged the worst milkshakes you could ever imagine from cars. After a few runs, I get water so clean I can drink.
There’s many ways to do flushes, but I always found having to run the car the most tedious. My way cycles the water through the car system and out into a waste tub and the next cycle can immediately be initiated. A full flush is only a few minutes, with me just sticking the hose in between tubs. Minimal effort, minimal time.
You should make a video brotha
My 98 tj has brown coolant. Had 3 flushes and still brown. How do I get normal color back step by step?
The radiator flush is what I've seen plumbers use, the shit that comes out of heating systems in houses is gross!
Did you leave the thermostat in or remove it for the flush?
When you flush your shit like that do not use mix coolant. You will end up weak on freeze/boil. Water in the block and heads you can't get out without taking out a welch plug, or having a petcock on the block.
As a Volkswagen air cooled engines enthusiastic, it is a important tutorial. 😊
I see what you did there!
I always use CLR. Stuff is magic
How much of it per coolant flush?
Did you bleed it out? And look at the thermostat housing. Those engines are notorious for them. I did two in a week
Yea, and the theromstat housing was replaced.
I always wondered; why do you need to run the heater blower? The coolant circulates through the heater core regardless, doesn't it?
No you have to turn on the heat for it to circulate it through the heater core!
@@coreturkoane5570 In what model? I have never heard of a "heater core valve" on the cooling system loop. Maybe it is a newer car thing.
Where did you dump th coolant?
You’re so real for that
Thanks
So if your car takes orange coolant, how r u supposed to know if there is a lot of rust or not in the system?
It won't be orange, it'll be brown.
Biggest problem with old antifreeze. Ph facter. Gets acidic and eats gaskets radiators etc.
Next time use CLR. South main auto has a great video
No. That’ll ruin hoses, water pump thermostat housing. Anything aluminum.
You can clean cooling fluid reservoir with HCL and water in 1:4 up to 1:2 ratio. Remove the reservoir first of course and use goggles and gloves if you dont want acid in eyes.
I filled it with solution and let it sit and after that i shaked it violently few minutes to get rid of the biggest stains.
Its 29 years old an now its clear like new again.
I can tell that’s on a 97-2008 ranger just by the instrument panel, what the coolant reservoir, and the location of the a/c compressor is
Typical ford.
Also gotta burp that air.
I've used everything CLR , vinegar, radiator flush for days trying to get my 86 Toyota pickup clean it was an expensive job
dishwashing liquid and tap water, take thermostat out drive for an hour heater on full hot and any fan setting rinse it out with plain water, do drive for an hour again, then reverse flush with hose, drain, install new thermostat and gasket, refill with distilled water and coolant. will be all good unless you have a blown head gasket or your radiator is full of crud, in which case replace it
@@Colt45hatchback the head gasket was blowing it wasn't quite blown out replaced it heater core and rad but flushed engine out first it was a mess ,I'll try the dish liquid next time I run across the same thing again,thanks
@@Ancientcaptain no worries, i bought a landcruiser that had been parked since 1997 a couple years back, cooling system was entirely clogged with rust scale, took about 4 flushes (dish liquid+water, water, dishliquid+water, water) to get it clean, but it came up real well, even the rear heater works (they usually get blocked or leak) really handy for a budget or when you just need to get something done now without going and buying something
I got the t adapter so i can hookup a water hose while yhe engine is running
Can someone explain to me what putting the cabin heat has to do with heating the radiator? Have I missed something?
Same question
He is running the heater to bleed the air out of the heater core and for the heater core water to be flushed out. Heater cores are small radiator that sit behind your dash. Hot water from the radiator runs thru this heater core then air get blown thru it giving you heat.
@@915Performance Ahh, okay, the bleeding I can understand now. Thank you. I was thinking he was trying to "heat up" the radiator, which obviously made no sense to turn on the cabin heat..
Because I remember (back in the good old days) My dad made us turn ON the cabin heat to cool down the car from overheating...
So there we were, all baking in a hot car, in slow moving traffic, cooking ourselves..
But, I always remembered that we did it, and the reasons why... (Though, we have never had a car do that ever since)...
@@ColinRichardson Yeah the heater core is just a small radiator used to heat warm up the cabin, so in the event of an over heating car it can help cool it down a little more
@@QuincyStick Yeah, the heat has to go somewhere... And has to come from somewhere..
It was just I was mistaken over the reason for the cabin heat.. Bleeding the radiator makes sense and corrects my misunderstanding.
I just leave the engine off and run a hose through it until it comes out clear. I haven't done it in years, but it always worked
typically the drain spot is just on the otherside of the radiator and often won't drain the block unless the car was ran
@@QuincyStick I just take out thermostat and it always worked. Bear in mind this was years ago on older cars.
@@richardcurtis2688 yeah but honestly just running the car is easier. Plus you most likely didn't get ALL of the water out of the block, but at that point you've gotten enough of it out that it doesn't matter
@@QuincyStick We're talking shitboxes here LoL. In my youth I drove a lot of beaters so it didn't matter much to me. Now I'd take a bit more care, but back then it didn't matter. I was invincible back then LoL
You stopped flushing with water still coming out dirty like that?…
Use distilled water or to water
I do on the final fill
That thermastat defiantly clogged
Not necessarily.
about as dirty as the hose nozzle 😂
Haha nice!
Run max heat refers to the coolant flow only, having the air fan maxed is just stupid.
Noticed oil getting into my radiator and mixing with the coolant. It has a new radiator.
My wife's 2011 Subaru Forester has the same issue! The oil seeps into the coolant line and when you open the radiator cap, it looks like a light green milkshake lol That's partially why we're going to trade it in once we get the title bc it's paif off now lol
Lmk if this is a good one my radiator blew a hose had all the hoses fixed mechanic did a radiator flush 2 weeks later my radiator blew brought it back to the mechanic had them fix it clearly I don't even have any coolant left in the reservoir or in the hoses because it blew right through the radiator . And then was told I needed to do another radiator flush. For $150 lmao is that scam or am I tripping ??
What about the heater core
Flushed it on HI
“Max heat”, turns on a/c. 🙄
"Same settings" clearly shows different settings. Went from full heat on max a/c (not sure why) to full heat on floor discharge
Why does that engine bay scream 😱 Ford explorer
So. You just let that silt flow though the entire system? That might be why you weren't able to get it to flow clear. Just a thought.
Is it bad I knew it was a ranger by the coolant overflow?
Hey if you got bottles of water why is there a need for a hose head? I’m confused lol
You could of gotten that cleaner my guy
I flushed it a ton. It kept flushing out rusty!
@MattsShop well idk I would of kept flushing it personally but u can understand if the radiator is just shot. At least you tried 👍 better then this owner did clearly
I love Ford rangers this looks like a 3.0 my favorite engine
This one is a 4.0, u can tell by the intake manifold.
Look this how diy do it. Most place professionals have machine that does it 30 mins.
Was that a ranger or an explorer?
Ranger
I just did a job similar to that. I thought my radiator was oxidizing, reason: There was brownish Gunk and foam in my reservoir. After doing a flush, there was incandescent coloring in my coolant similar to that of oil. Did a bit of research and found out it was the Engine Oil cooler. Spent $80.00 on parts, and 6 hours taking alternator, compressor, exhaust struts and thermostat out.
Doing it myself saved me about $2,000.00.
How did you find out it was the engine oiil cooler? I too have brown sludge In my radiator.
@@fallenone6did u find out anything? I have gunk in mine too. More yellowish than brown
@balkee42 not yet. Ima do a coolant flush and test the head gasket to make sure it's not blown. Then if it still continues I'll probly swap the radiator to make sure it's not the cooler line broken inside.
@@fallenone6 yeah ima do same. Praying it aint a blown head gasket. Will probably just replace my radiator also just to be safe
@balkee42 yea the radiator will be the last thing I do. Keep me updated if you figure it out, I'll do the same.
As soon as I saw max ac being called max heat, I knew this guy is a hack like Scotty Kilmer.
😂
Should my drain plug remain open the entire time I'm doing this?
Keep going till it’s clear proceeds to stop while dirty lol
Did you flush everything from that reservoir INTO your coolant system??
NO! I took the tube off the bottom of the reservoir and washed it out.
Definitely a ranger lol
Bro i didt not flush my ranger like that i filled it then turned on the petcock before filling with coolant and used the funnel and u watch the bubbles go down then add to the resvoir just to top off and u can vaccum out the gunk in the resevoir instead of washing it into the radiator all in all he did an ok job but not very thorough
My friend are flushing A/C or coolant?!
Being a f150 your gonna have to flush her a bunch of times buddy
Good thing it's not an f150. It's a ranger with a 4.0
I just stuck a water hose down the radiator and ran the engine till it came out clear and filled it back up with coolant
How many leaks does it have now lol
Always remove the thermostat, that way you flushout all of the gunk
Good tip!
You will flush enough out, if your still unsure, buy another bottle of radiator flush. And repeat process.
How can I like More than once hahaha
I’m gonna flush this until it’s clear!
One flush later
Nvm this takes like 20 mins to drain its as clean as it’s gettin 😂
Don't forget to not put it on Max ac then say say sam setting and put it on the vents 😂
Can it also clean water mineral build up? My uncle gave me an old car now I'm restore it so I can daily drive it. But the problem is he's been using tap water for the engine, when I opened the cylinder head it's full of water mineral. I took out most of it by brushing. But I can clean the small channels with my brush.
probably not. I'd do some research on that one. That's why I always tell people to just buy the coolant...
Last time I changed me coolant, I insisted on making the radiator as clean as possible
I had to flush the radiator over 8 times, and still the water wasn't as clean as I wanted, I had to move on
Whatsss the vinegar for??
A cleaner. Some say it's too acidic though.
you do not want to do a water pump on those 3liters
This is a 1998 4.0 OHV
The 3.slow in a ranger isn't a hard water pump.
@@mitchvb5945 just take off the alternator power steering air conditioning.... its a stupid design
I have often found the water pump seal to start leaking shortly after a flush. Not sure if it's the chemicals that deteriorate the old seal, or if it's the loosened rust and stuff that tear at the seal, or possibly both. I also remove thermostat and turn on heat during flush and rinse. I also run the defrost and watch for fogging of the windshield to check for a bad heater core. when I'm rinsing I crack open the radiator drain about half way and put the garden hose in top and adjust water flow to keep up with the drain. I do this for about twenty minutes after it drains clear. install new thermostat, gasket, coolent, and new cap. I know I'm anal but it's my car, my investment.
Couldn’t you have took out the thermostat and do the open hose deal unhooking the bottom hose and putting fresh water in the top hose connected to thermostat…… also start it off and on for 5 times till clear.
heater core gona pop now.
I think this customer is you
100% food grade citric acid works great.
Why do you use the hose, and not distilled water from the start to finish? The harsh elements that you are trying to remove are still going to be in there, and using distilled water from the beginning to the finish fill/top-off will eleveate, if not eliminate them.
It's eusty cause you not using distilled water
Distilled water final fill up.
You coulda got cleaner. Took 4 times for me using distilled water to fill and flush.
Customer believed in the life time coolant nonsense
You changed the settings!
radiator flush is a waste of money just flush it heat cycle drain and repeat. as for the reservoir dont be lazy take it off and clean it properly. close all the exits stick some rice in it close it up and shake
Might have clogged it more.
You should try to use oxalic acid!
I've tried that stuff. Wasn't impressed!
Sloppy work
Yep.
Hose water?
I know a ranger when I see one
Buddy turned into a fairy at the end
LOL!
You don't need the fan on for the heater to work. Lol
Haha, yep. Just causes it to take longer to warm up.
NEVER. NEVER use house water. Distilled ONLY!!
lol
What mechanic do you think is actually going to use distilled
@@andrewxz5800exactly!!
Just did the same thing last month
I used toilet bowl cleaner… lol.. just run it ten minutes, drain and flush with fresh water.. do not leave it in too long unless u
You want your aluminum parts to melt..😂
As clean as you can get it is not clean that water should be run till clear
How much?