I can't believe Mechanics don't know How to Recharge AC system correctly!
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- čas přidán 4. 06. 2024
- The Number 1 cause of Car AC not working is such a easy fix.
Some mistakes are so simple example performing the Recharge in the shade.
Arctic freeze auto AC Recharge Synthetic refrigerant with stop leak, A/C pro refrigerant are just some good brand Refrigerant that can be used.
#mechanic - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Do you have any information on improving The AC you can share with the NIA community? Your kindness is appreciated.
You are not doing it right either. AC in a can is the shade tree backyard way. Use a vacuum pump, manifold gauges, or recovery and charge machine. Leak sealers in a can are not good....pull 20 inches of vacuum to pull moisture and contaminants from the system... then charge the right way.
So much for holding it at 12oclock, lol.
Ive learned to clean ac condensor,my ac was blowing at 18 deg. F. Now blows at 2 deg. F.
@@James-929 Cool, you can use your car as a freezer too !
@@grzlbr 🤓😂
Most legit mechanics do not use ac cans that's why they have a ac reclaimer and recharging station so the system doesn't get over or under charged
Yes. And such reclaiming machines do test for sealer, and shops won't do anything more on the AC.
or manifolds and know how to read them like we do at my shop
He's trying to do it as an amateur car owner would do it.
@@gregrussell2692 a home gamer should be using a guage set. He's obsessed with the green area. You need to know the low pressure side and high pressure side pressures and cross reference to an ambient temperature chart if you're not doing a full reclaim and recharge.
@@gregrussell2692 I understand that. The title is misleading then.
A special thanks to all the expert mechanics and hvac techs for pointing out the obvious.
We all know freon in a can is not the same as having our car serviced by an $85/hr professional, but for most of us this works just fine.
Cheers
Exactly. In my area labor is $150 and hour with a minimum of one hour. Also, no place I've ever had my AC serviced can simply check the refrigerant charge. They insist on pulling a vacuum then installing a full charge. Of course it can take up to an hour to pull said vacuum so now labor is at least an hour and a half plus materials so now you're looking at a bill of $300-$350. So about once a year I add a $6 can of R-134a whenever my 2008 Durango stops cooling very well.
@@johnmcafee6140 Problem solved, problem staying solved.
@@johnmcafee6140 That's because you don't test an A/C charge by pressure. You test it by weight. And the only way to do that is to pull all the refrigerant out. BTW, you shouldn't have to recharge it basically ever. You've got a leak somewhere. Probably one of the test port valves. Probably caused by you shoving an Autozone refrigerant can on there every year. Which would take me or any decent mechanic about 20 mins to diagnose. Also, a lot of those parts store cans have stop leak in them. That stuff is destroying your compressor. It's ok, though. Keep running it and when you need an entire A/C system rebuild in a year or 2, tell me how I'm "ripping you off."
@@1337penguinman I have pressure/temperature charts that have been very reliable for me. I have my own vacuum pump and a lot of time on my hands so I can draw down the system overnight; if it holds vacuum with the gauge still connected then it is ready to charge. I have my own gauges as well. I do both R-12 and R-134a on my vehicles. I am retired (74) and cannot afford to have a shop work on my vehicles. A friend of mine was quoted $600 to get his Ford truck A/C working and the mechanic never looked at the system, did a sniff test for freon leaks, or pressurize with nitrogen to do a soap test for leaks. Sheesh. I told him to come over and I will show him how to diagnose, repair, recharge, and be on his way.
It would be nice if a real auto tech would describe how to use a can. This guy really doesn't understand what he's doing.
This was 100% the best video on this I’ve seen. Simple to the point and in layman’s terms.
I live in South Florida, I can't believe there is a mechanic or any professional that knows anything that doesn't involve emptying a customer's wallet at warp speed.
Why i dont let anypne touch my cars with there meat beaters. Only i touch it aside from alimements and stuff i dont have 20 grand for the tool. Those use lazers now and have dummy resistant guidance via electronic screen
@@chickensfloat7427 that's my favorite. When customers think they know what they're doing because they have the internet and Scotty Kilmer. Alignment machines have had lasers for years and what tool costs $20k besides an alignment rack? Just stop.
Im a fleet technican for class 8 trucks, our alignment tool was a couple hundred bucks. Granted commercial vehicles are so much easier to work on the cars, but I have yet to see a 20k alignment machine. My old Ford dealer ship had a brand new top of the line Hunter alignment machine installed for 8k.
@@chickensfloat7427 there's also more to it than just following the screen. What if it pulls after you put everything in spec? What if you can't get it in spec? What if there's abnormal tire wear and it's in spec. Don't try to downplay a skill set that you don't have. My guess is that you change your own oil and pretend to do your own brakes.
@@matth9359 not to sound like a dick but. There's a lot of people calling themselves mechanics that are not? Passing a written test doesn't necessarily mean you're any good at the profession. And for every honest mechanic There's 10 dishonest one's waiting to take your money and deliver a vehicle worse than it was? Sad but very true. I know this to be fact because I spend everyday fixing vehicles that were taken to a dealership and not repaired or damaged from a poor job? Crappie part's are becoming a huge problem today also. But that being said I do run into my fair share of shadetree mechanics screw ups lol. There's never a shortage of repairs to do around this town to be sure. I'm impressed with south main auto on CZcams though for his diagnostic skills 👌.
For those that don’t know there’s a pressure differential needed to actually charge your AC system. If you are in the green do not try to go higher into the green because for one the system pressure will be higher than your can so it won’t want to take anymore and two you need to leave some space for gas expansion so don’t try and over charge it. If your AC isn’t cooling first check to see if your condenser fan is on because it is what pulls the hot air out of the car and allows for your refrigerant to cool off before going through your vents. So sometimes you don’t need refrigerant but it’s mechanical. I just wanted to throw that out there.
Good callout. Thanks
How can you tell if the condenser fan is on or not
@@shericantor1031 well most cars come with two fans and one is for the radiator and the second for the condenser and it is wired in series with the compressor so it will only come on if the compressor turns on or vice versa. If the car gets up to temperature only one fan turns on. You can jump the fan/compressor at the fuse block but if the compressor is low on refrigerant or the fan switch, low pressure control switch is not working then it won’t turn on normally.
Condenser fan does not pull heat out of the car. The condenser fan is mounted to the condenser, which does as the name implies. It condenses freon. So, in order, for most cars: Low pressure freon gas is pulled into the compressor, which then compresses the low pressure freon gas into a high pressure freon gas. It then enters the condenser and the high pressure gas is then 'condensed' into a high pressure liquid, which then enters the dryer (on most systems), which cleans the liquid by removing garbage as well as moisture that may be present. Then the high pressure liquid freon enters the expansion valve which meters the freon and turns it into a low pressure liquid on the other side (the pressure release also is what creates the cold air so to speak. The low pressure liquid freon now enters the evaporator, which turns it into a low pressure gas freon. and the cycle continues.
Thanks for the advice, 👍
Some negative comments regarding the use of those charging cans. I charged my truck last year using A/C pro and used the rest of the can this year. I have no problem buying a can every two years . Ice Cold Air for a year in a very hot climate. A cheap and easy fix.
If you have to buy it every two years you have a major leak.
Fix your leak. You are polluting the environment with toxic chemicals
You have a leak!
Are you mechanic or just an amateur like the one in the video?
@@joshuaperezhernandez8041 I do most of my mechanical work. I've been working on cars since I was 14. Based on my experience with many mechanics that do it for a living the term amateur could be used.
5 years ago I was on an out of state road trip. A/c kept getting warmer and warmer. Auto shop said $1,200 to make it right. Didn’t have the bucks so I put in two cans of Freon,with the gauge and followed instructions on can. Held cold for a full year. I have added Freon each year for 5 years and the a/c continues to work. For $30 a year vs $1200 to fix I consider a win for the little guy.
Thats because you have a leak 🤦♂️
And it may just be a leaky needle
Southern guys really know how to explain everything simplisticly and I can't believe most people actually could think any different.
differently
@allangoodman82 actually grammatically indifferent.
I never considered the stereotype, but yeah, I think southern guys -- despite having an accent that sounds a little different to my California ears-- tend to be really effective communicators and thorough in explaining things.
Exactly this was perfect.
Jaja! This is coming from Cuntsmith.😅😅
Using those "do it yourself "cans are perfectly fine. I have NEVER taken a vehicle to a mechanic just to have freon added.
Been doin a/c for 35 years, there’s so many variables low gas is just the tip of the ice burg. The amount of situations that aren’t in text books is incredible
Exactly, some people just like to think that they are a professional and know more than someone else.
I still remember a lot of misinformation when going from r12 to the 134 refrigerant.
I had a guy come in for an a/c diag. Got in the car and indeed a/c was hot. Pulled it in and popped the hood. Looked at the condenser and there was a large plastic bag behind the grill plastered across the condenser. I removed the bag and low and behold, a/c was cold again. Showed the guy what happened, and didn't charge him.
@@archangel3237 My 134's been leaking out every winter for the past few years so i have the mech. fill it every May for $70, but now the passenger floorboard is getting wet and there's a swooshing sound around turns so i wonder if it's related to the freon leak or just a seperate a/c water leak.
That’s most likely a build up of condensation from the evaporator, normally it would drain out through a small hose, unblock it with some shop air, and check that it’s not coolant from the heater core , it would smell if it was was
Nice work! The only thing I do differently is I check the system by attaching the gauge without the can (just don’t squeeze the trigger)! No reason to break the seal on the can until you know that it’s low and needs recharging!
You said we must keep the can upright (so only gas not liquid refrigerant doesn't go directly into the system, I presume). However, when done you showed the can lying down. Is that an error?
which is point less and just takes more time
@@justinradford2957 If you don't need it, does the Auto shop take back an opened can?
@@garyruxton5226 That's called overstating things to look good for a camera. Then doing the direct opposite in real time.
@@garyruxton5226 there's no way he had the can upright. Hose is too short and there isn't enough space... That's why he skipped the part lol
The first step BEFORE turning on the car is to hook up the gauge to make sure you have some pressure in the system. If no pressure you are putting refrigerant in a system that may have air and moisture in it and it needs to be evacuated and leak checked by a mechanic.
What happens if you were to replace an o-ring and got air into a system a non vacuum system
@@yankotactical1134 if you open any lines then the system needs to be vacuumed. The point of the vacuum is to remove the moisture so it doesn't turn to steam and turn your a/c system into a bomb
Depends on the type of system, and compressor oil used. Oxygen can react with the compressor oil, and start to form an acid eating the system from the inside out.
Biggest issue is immediately you can start to have restrictions from the oxygen you have within the system. You can start getting moisture which will freeze, and plug the system up.
Just take it to a real mechanic in the first place lol
@@billsmithingell7902 a steam bomb?
Automotive technician here...
I've been doing a mobile service here in Houston. I have a small inverter generator, Yellow Jacket vacuum pump, a small recovery machine and recovery tank. I remove the freon, pull a vaccum for 30 minutes, and charge with virgin freon to factory specs. All for $90. The problem with AC PRO cans is that they contain alot of oil to push a small amount of freon into your system. That causes an over-oiling of the freon, that decreases the heat transfer and efficiency of the system. Which leads to a decreased performance of the ac.
My camry blows 28 degrees in the morning. In the Texas heat, my customers thank me for getting them cold.
Bro that’s a deal!
Do you have to add compressor oil after the recovery process?
@@DigitalExorcist usually no. But I do add a shot or 2 of tracer dye to the system, to help find leaks, if they call me back.
And you'd be surprised how many people fell that the $100 is too much to charge. The price of a 30lb r134 cylinder went from $109, to $389. So when I have to buy a new one, my price will increase to about $130-150
Also, oil doesn't compress like freon does. It'll kill the compressor if it's over oiled. Definitely seen that happen.
Do you have a contact number or a business website if I need to get AC service done with you?
Got to love it. He is telling you the ultimate best correct way to charge your A.C. , but he is using a can from autozone without monitoring the high pressure side. LOL
Another great tip that I have learned is to watch for the lines near the dryer to start sweating and getting good and cold. If you keep adding much freon past that the cooling will reverse and the vent temps get warmer and some freon will have to be removed.
Another thing if adding freon only lasts a couple weeks or a month there is a leak that needs to be fixed.
Try soaping all the AC lines with the car off as static pressure should be close to 110psi and enough to cause bubbling.
Some very slow leaks require draining the system and pressuring with nitrogen at 200PSI to find them.
A leaking seal in an AC compressor shaft can be very hard to find because it only leaks under high pressure with the car running and producing 250 to 350 psi on the high side.
I had a compressor like that in my dump truck. It finally got to where charging the system wouldn't last all day. And I had soaped and pressure tested the line over and over finding nothing. So by process of elimination I determined it to be the compressor. That did fix it. Its been blowing ice cubes ever since I replaced it.
If you change any lines on the AC system you have to add a little of the correct Pag oil back into the system and vacuum it down to get any moisture out.
I haven't always replaced the dryer every time I empty out an AC system especially if I just put a new one on but it is recommended. A moisture saturated dryer can cause your AC to freeze at the orifice or expansion valve and quit cooling.
I agree with your comment and have done the same thing.
I've seen ac systems that you would have never thought that they should have worked, but cooled like a new system.
Good recomendations. Now about the receiver drier if the vehicle gets subject to a full vacuum no moisture will exist in the receiver drier or any other part of the A/C system thus making it completely safe to leave the receiver drier in place👍
200-250 on the high side max on humid days. any higher and your condenser fan is not performing.
ALWAYS change the drier
As 40+yr mechanic I can confidently say that YT has once again shown that it knows more than everyone else🤦
Probably, as someone who works on these systems every day i can say confidently he showed us exactly how to not do this.
Don't forget to leave your back doors open 🤣😂🤣😝😝😝😜😳💩🤯
@@chriscoker7794 He should vac it down and charge it properly with a gauge set and not that leak sealer bullshit.
@@f-j-Services I've worked on AC system on automobiles for 40 plus years and still learn something new every now and then.
I also have cut trees professionally for 40 plus years. 4 different climbers could take down the same tree differently and all 4 could do it correctly and have been right. For each his own, but everyone isn't a good teacher.
I do plumbing and heating no AC at all just being around you fellas I knew this was incorrect. Zero reclaim
I took auto mechanics yrs ago, the AC class was lacking in info so I went over to home HVAC and took a class there, they really explained it well. Superheat and subcool measurements, 2000 rpms, fan blowing on the front to simulate actual driving conditions. 15 to 20 degree drop. Ambient temp, interior temp, all these things come into play.
Saw on another video a very easy way to check if the system even has freon, this DOES NOT CHECK PRESSURE LEVEL but does check if there is some in there, use a screw driver or tool to press the valve in on the low pressure port and see if it whistles or makes some noise like air or freon is coming out. Very much like a tire, press in on the valve and it’ll let some out. Very good tips on this video!! If you’re watching this video and are not understanding the terminology, aren’t sure which line you’re to be adding the freon to, which lines you’re even going to be messing with, any level of doubt where you’re thinking you’re “lost” then it’s simple, DO NOT ATTEMPT IT. Just bite the bullet and take it to a shop. If you connect and the pressure is in the green like he said, DO NOT ADD MORE as freon isn’t the issue. That’s something else in the system and adding freon will not only NOT FIX your issue, it can add more problems and lead to a bigger bill when you inevitably do take it to a shop. Had a friend ruin his entire HVAC system because of doing that. I (and you should as well) know what type of freon to be using, which line is the low vs high pressure line (low is usually a thicker line and high pressure is usually a smaller line), know the HIGHLY suggested environment temperature to perform this in, make sure you’re outside or in a garage with proper ventilation, and definitely wear safety gear IE SAFTEY GLASSES AND GLOVES. If you’re injured, specially your eyes, you won’t be able to enjoy the reason you even did this repair in the first place, COLDER AC. Best of luck and DO YOUR RESEARCH!!
Hands down the BEST tutorial I've seen on how to charge the AC system. NIA (Nates Interactive Auto) is an EXCELLENT instructor (I wish that I had teachers/instructors like him back in the day)!!! I have LIKED & Subscribed to NIA channel. Thank you for sharing your skills, tips and wisdom. Looking forward to viewing MORE of your CZcams tutorials.
You're being sarcastic, right?
Before adding any refrigerant to your system maks sure your Schrader valves are tight there are 2 valves that can leak over time ,high and low pressure valves you can get a little screw driver at any auto parts store that has a slotted end to tighten both valves and before you tighten them get a spray bottle and dish soap water and spray the valves to see if they are leaking with the engine and ac running
Yep. I redid my whole ac system...compressor and all and it leaked. I was so upset. Low and behold one of the Schrader valves was leaking. Replaced that very cheap part and worked like a charm
@@DTB2.0 Look at the bright side, you now have new parts and knowledge.
This is the best thorough vid tutorial on charging A/C !
Been using this for over 20 years for many different vehicles.. works PERFECT!
You did an excellent job in explaining, and I mean thoroughly the correct process to recharge an ac system. Way to go, I appreciate your video.
It also helps to use a refrigerant pressure / temperature chart because where you are in the green will greatly depend on the ambient temperature.
It makes all the difference. This video can easily misguide anyone. My pressure shows 80 psi but it’s 105 outside so it should read around 135psi
Jesus, finally someone with some sense in their brain.
Good information. These parts store charge kits are ok for adding refrigerant if you suspect the system is just low. If you're trying to diagnose a not cooling issue and the charge is good the little single hose kit is useless. You need a manifold gauge set so you can read the high and low sides running and some cases checking the pressure not running can give you helpful information. For instance looking at your pressure on both high and low after they equalize at ambient temperature gives you a good idea of the charge level. There are charts online that show what pressure you should have at what ambient temperature. Another example is timing how long it takes the high and low to equalize can help diagnose an expansion valve or orifice tube issue.
I used the A/C Pro can for the first time the other day and it worked great. Easy and cheap.
Thanks for the in-depth analysis of your video. I for one appreciate your demeanor and heed your advice. Excellent video.
"I have gauges in the vents." Thorough instrumentation is a Very Good Thing. There are things going on that our senses cannot detect--especially if we are not trained and experienced. Excellent video. I've done a few recharges, tried my best to follow the directions on the can and in the manual, and still learned a few good points--in the shade with all doors opened being two of the best. Thank you.
I will add you should also use a pressure gauge to monitor the High pressure side as well. If the High side stays too Low (e.g. below 100 psi) or goes super high (above 300 psi) while adding Freon then there is a blockage / malfunction in the system and you should stop immediately. Failure to do so risks damaging the AC Compressor or something else in the system.
damn 300? Sounds like a ticking time bomb thats crazy.
@@curedham2963A normally-operating system's high-pressure side should read around 250-300psi. The systems are designed to operate in this pressure range.
You have bigger problems if your cars high side exceeds 300 PSI. That system is overcharged.
THAT'S WAS AWESOME, SELF EXPLANATORY. DOESN'T GET ANY BETTER THAN THAT, THANXS
🤣🤣🤣 I clicked this video bc the title said mechanics and I knew the hell this man just released on himself without knowing. Everybody is instantly and an expert. Let battle begin! 😂😂
Professionals usually don't use small cans and definitely have a recycling or at least a recollection system.
yes, you can borrow the proper tools for free from auto parts stores and the coolant is even cheaper than these toy cans. so I dont know why people dont do the job correctly for the same price.
Directions say to keep the can straight up and down, occasionally turning the can 90 degrees and back up.
While connected to the low pressure line there wasn't enough slack for you to keep the can upright. Likely why you skipped the filling.
These manufacturers need to give you a longer hose!
We all would like a longer hose
I think it has to do with introducing it as a gas not liquid
This refrigerant is a blended gas. It must be installed in a liquid form or you will be pushing the lighter gas into the system. Which changes the super heat and boiling point properties of the refrigerant. This causes the system to it to function and cool properly.
I guess I was just lucky but mine quit blowing cold, I bought the stuff , hooked it up , put three fourths of the can in, never looked at a guage, that was 10 years ago and the S10 still blows cold ❄️🤩👍
Same here in my 04 Silverado
@@realtalk37851 I couldn't believe it fixed the leak but it did 🤩
Thanks! I'm watching a lot of tutorial. No one mentioned the shade & doors points!
Most mechanic shops are required by the EPA to use the proper refrigerant handling systems that are capable of capturing and recycling refrigerant from a vehicle. That can does not meet those requirements. But it is perfectly legal for the do it yourselfer to use them. But if it is done in a shop, they have to follow those regulations, be certified and the equipment to do so had to be certified.
Comments are hilarious all these 40 something years in the field criticizing but don’t have one video of showing you how to do it correctly.
I just read three different brands of AC cans. (All of them were 134a of course since that is all that is available on the market) None of them said anything about doing it in the shade or leaving doors open. Logic says the door reference is because you don't want your thermostat to turn off your AC in the middle of the procedure. I suppose the shade thing is about not letting the ambient temperature getting too hot since temp is a factor in the pressure shown on the gauge. Probably both good ideas to follow but definitely not universally recommended or required.
Thank you sir. This was the easiest and most practical video I’ve found so far.
This is very thorough and very helpful thank you
Also you sound like my friend Jeremy, the way you speak tones and flexions all sound like him. Have a blessed day !
Cool thanks for the tips , not everyone has access to a industrial grade machine so for those of us that have to use cans this is useful
proper tools are cheap and you can do this the mechanic way and save 1000s in the long run. if your car is only worth $500, then it might be ok to use these toys that come from walmart. I wouldn't destroy a car with these if the car is worth more than $500
Don't forget to wear your safety goggles when working with Freon.
You don't want to freeze your eyeballs.
Great Video!
And don't forget the most ignored part in a vehicle....
The Cabin Filter!
Maybe check/change the cabin filter as needed to increase air flow
What those can gauges don't show you is the ambient tempature for the amount of freon you need. Low side of the green may work for 50-60⁰ Temps but not for 85⁰+ on a manifold set they show you what amount for what ambient Temps you need
Years ago I worked as heating and cooling tech and one of the things that sticks out is turning can upside down for liquid and right side up to just increase pressure.but that was using guard in both sides and removing all air first
Up to 40 years ago buying a recharge kit (just a hose with valves and a clamp that came with instructions) and/or a case of R-12 refrigerant was something nearly everybody did - the stuff was available not only at the auto parts store but at places like K-Mart. When I was stationed in Texas I was recharging the AC for everybody in the barracks as long as they brought their own R-12 and a six pack of beer. Cheaper and easier than going to a garage to have it done.
Then all the various new regulations and laws came about and suddenly you couldn't get refrigerant in many places unless you had a license of some sort.
True but things had to change. Refrigerant release was supposedly the cause of the ozone problem.
I remember those cans!!
they still sell it at walmart most states..
@@mrofnocnon I remember that is what they were claiming (EPA), they said R12 was bad for the ozone and we had to change to R134 because it was safe for the ozone. Now they are saying the same thing about R134, I guess someone is padding the EPA's pocket again, same with residential refrigerant.
@@mrofnocnon The releases never stopped. Every single air conditioner in the world leaks eventually. Yet, the ozone hole magically closed up and they still don't know why. I've learned to be skeptical of any new lefty "scientific emergencies" that seem to require relinquishment of rights and a grab into my pocket. Also, old refrigerants are still used in many countries.
Spot on a little instruction helps the young guys breaking into the business and the old guys who got passed over by the new tech. So many hater’s out there no wonder mechanics have the well deserved reputation as rip off con men. I’m 67 and have been a mechanic all my life, most people can not afford or find a legitimate shop anymore, the shop’s are just not out there. Most of you guys know this and most shops don’t have the latest diagnosis equipment and have resorted to just part changers till they get it. AC work has gone high tech and filled with regulations. More power to the car owners! Yes you can mess up your ac if you don’t read the instructions. No you can not blow up a can of Freon hooking it to the suction port.
Bad mechanics have been a constant source of stress my entire driving life. You can always tell when they come out and start talking down to you about your car; they're insecure about not knowing what to do if the pad doesn't tell them. Had one "mechanic" tell me my brakes were messed up and how he never gets his truck dirty like the prissy little girl he was - took my truck to a real mechanic and it was a ball joint problem and he mentioned he was glad to work on a truck that wasnt a parking lot queen. The bad ones have no clue how to diagnose on their own anymore.
These cans contain sealer once hooked up a real shop can’t hook up a machine to it. This isn’t the real way to do it. Certainly not professional b
Wow! Thanks! It worked! Guage was barely in the green (which read filled) no blue on my guage .. filled to the higher end of the green and working great. 😊
"You must do this with car parked in shade"
Parks the car in direct sun light
This is a good way to charge your A/C. If you have at least 2 digital gauges that you can put in the dash vents, one in each side as far apart as possible. If the system is low then one side will usually be drastically different than the other side. There are a lot of pro mechanics commenting and there are many good ways to charge. The most accurate way I was taught at a Four Seasons A/C workshop is with a contact type thermometer system. With one attached to each side of the evaporator lines, as close to the actual core as possible, usually right at the firewall. Once everything is running, with the A/C on high and the car doors open, a condition called "Maximum Heat Load", the temperatures should be the same on both sides of the evaporator +/- 3 degrees. If the outlet temp is higher than the inlet temp the system needs some freon, if the outlet is lower than the inlet the system is overcharged. The recommended charge amounts on the stickers are usually pretty close but due to manufacturing variances a couple ounces either way might be needed to get the best A/C cooling possible. Using the contact thermometer method you adjust in small increments until the desired inlet and outlet temps are achieved. Personally I still prefer the systems that use a site glass. They are far less common today. They were only used on expansion valve systems which were the norm 50 years ago. Fixed Orifice systems became popular in the 80's but with less efficient systems today due to lower charge amounts the expansion valve is making a comeback. The manufacturers are intentionally leaving the site glass out of the system in most cases because it encourages do it yourselfers in my opinion. Although I did charge the A/C on a 2007 Scion Xa the other day that had a site glass.
Good info. Thanks.
Did it have a meat thermometer in the vent also?
@@markbaciak8974 No, I use a digital electric contact thermometer with 8 different channels. It's specifically designed for this type of work, but it does work great for smoking a pork butt😝
@@1967davethewave where can someone buy one of these 8 channel hvac specific digital electric contact thermometers?
At 14 secs he says DON’T charge the AC in sun, then he charges it in the sun. He must be one of those mechanics he warned us about. 😂
Also says, at length, you must keep the can upright, then fills with it horizontal.
Great information for the general public. Not for professionals with full diagnostic machines.
Too bad it’s bad information
Thanks to this video I get customers that come to the shop “ my a/c dont work and I put 2 cans in there and still nothing “ lol I get about 3lbs free freon when I do the recovery 😂
You're getting free 3 lb of freon contaminated with air, moisture and oil acids caused by leaks and improper charging. And then I assume you are using it to put in your customers cars?
@@MrNiceCobra thats why a real A/c recovery machine has Filter… Just saying. And after the recovery it performs Vacuum.. and then re charge…
Or you going to tell me every time you recover a car you need to get rid of the 30lbs freon and buy a new one because that car could of had contaminated freon??
I’ll agree with you if you using a backyard style a/c recover lol
@@kordobez3978
Refrigerant recycle refers to the reduction of used refrigerant contaminants using devices that reduce oil, water, acidity, and particulates,” writes DuPont. “Recycle is usually a field or shop procedure with no analytical testing of refrigerant."
“Reclamation refers to the reprocessing of used refrigerants to ARI 700 specifications. Quality of reclaimed product is verified by chemical analysis.
“Reclamation offers advantages over onsite refrigerant recycling procedures,” DuPont says, “because these systems cannot guarantee complete removal of contaminants. Putting refrigerants that do not meet new product specifications back into expensive equipment may cause damage.”
Some refrigerant may not be reclaimed because it is too contaminated and should be despised.
So without analyzing it is game of guessing and hoping that refrigerant was cleaned enough . But on the other hand it's a job security ;)
This would be a good time to check the cabin air filters also good video.
Added to my The CZcams Garage playlist! Thanks!!
Good job. Very helpful! Thanks
High side of the green side might be fine, depending on your model...the gauge isn't just colored, it has numbers. It's usually not hard to Google and find the capacity of your vehicle.
An added note: you can squeeze the trigger to blow the air out of the line, right before connecting it.
Air is a non-condensable , and will eventually ruin the system.
Water
🤣
No
Air contains moisture...that'll freeze into ice inside system. Water also reacts with the refrigerant turning corrosive which can cause bad damage.
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Don't forget to open your back doors.🤣😂🤣😝😝😝😜😳
Nate your awsome. You gave so many good tips no one else does!
Excellent video. Thank you so much for this. I appreciate you!
Great tutorial on top off for a non-leaking system.
I finally topped off my 2006 Tundra which NEVER was cold since I bought new, just kind of cool except for at night.
Had the Recharge kit for over 10 years stashed in my truck supplies cabinet and just found it again after pulling out 5 qt jug of Mobil1 oil for a change and read up and followed all instructions precisely, noting ambient temp/humidity.
That was about 3 months ago and it is still blowing MUCH Cooler!
So glad I didn't let Scottie K continue to scare me away from doing this and bow driving cool in the Hot Ass Florida Summer!
Thanks for your thoroughness.
I didn't see the leaving doors open but it still worked great and now I know for next time.
How's it not leaking if it needs to be topped off
@@stw8180
In my case, the system was never charged up sufficiently from Indiana Factory.
In auto a/c the Schrader Valves are often a weak spot . It could be a most minor leak does it, but under that system there are several points that might, the worst if the in-dash evaporater.
But then either you can or give it to somebody that can, right!
All AC systems will eventually need charged!
@@billy2bob63 which means it's leaking and needs repair..... ac systems don't use up refrigerant...
All 4 windows open is the same effect because you want the cabin thermostat to stay warm enough to keep the compressor from turning off until charging is completed the compressor shuts off and the gauge on can will fluctuate sometimes to the red scaring a novice away from trying to complete there is a notch in the bottom of those self service cans to prevent dangerous blow out from becoming over pressurized
Been a dealer tech for 44yrs thank you for the laugh! First thing I thought of forest gump!
I like how you filled it to the upper end of the green after you said once it gets to the green stop.
Charging a car/truck's A/C is NOT rocket surgery. If you re-charge and it doesn't blow cold air, lick the tip of the connector and say "feces" three times in row, and then throw garlic over your LEFT shoulder (NOT right). Then, start the motor and do a somersault. This is the PROPER way to recharge your system. You'll need a snow bib in the summer while traveling in your vehicle. 👍Your Mom taught me that...
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Seems like the hose is way too short to allow the can to be vertical.
They make the hose short so if it blows off it won't slap you in the face.
I've charged em with the can upside down longer than the kid here has been alive. Do give it a shake gently back and forth as you charge.
"Make sure the can is vertical." Lays can sideways...🙄
Remember to keep the can straight up and down. like he said. Not sideways like he did.
yup, you want only the gas to go in the low side.....high side is for liquid
you can shake the can but dont shake it too far sideways
He was probably forced to lay the can on its side because of (1) the very short hose that came with the can, and (2) the tight location of the low side tap. This is one of the drawbacks of using an R-134A container/valve/hose combination type canister rather than the preferred method of using a standard R-134A can (or tank) and separate hoses and gauges. Doing any work, especially AC work, as a DIYer can be problematic if you don't have the right tools for the job.
You should have a gauge set to monitor both high & low pressure while charging the system.
You can also use hot water to make it flow better if it is taking a long time.
Dude it literally tells you how much r134a the system takes. You want the coldest possible? “Recover” the 134a and weigh it in. By weighing it in you can skip all that open door, in the shade crap and you put exactly what the car manufacturer wanted in it.
True, to a point. As long as someone hasn’t already add oil to the system. Too much oil and the system isn’t maximizing its use of Freon
If the system was low on refrigerant to begin with that means it has a leak and pulling a vacuum on it will suck air in that leak. Unless its a pinhole leak your taking chances of introducing non condensables into the system
He said weigh it.
I use manifold gauges on high & low side when charging. The gauges help pinpoint a problem, if there is one. Using a temperature/ pressure chart is an effective guide in dialing in the correct pressures for maximum cooling/ taking into account the ambient temperature. Remember to bleed off just a small amount of refrigerant from the hoses as you are connecting the lines, to avoid getting air into the system. And NEVER, EVER, charge through the high side! This could be fatal.
You can charge through the high side. Liquid only, though.
@@elgoog7830 How? What if your high side has more pressure than the can?
@@zekemadjar1966
Open the high side side, while the can is upside down and while vehicle is running. Slowly let it, or you'll jam up the compressor. And if you're putting a lot in, obviously monitor the weight.
It's a much quicker process, for large amounts.
I've even put liquid in the low side(very small amounts though).
Edit: to answer your question about can pressure, it should suck it into the system, while the vehicle is running(?).
I wish we could post pictures, I'd show you what the exact procedure is, if I could post a picture, from the page of a manual, from an automotive technical institute/college(Universal Technical institute). I haven't worked on cars in some years and haven't had the chance to really test this out, just recently found this info and haven't had a big enough job that I could try it out on. However, years and years ago, I've seen a couple other techs do it and at the time, never really understood what they were doing, but I have seen it done.
@@elgoog7830 the high side is the discharge and the low side is suction. That's why it goes in through the low side. It's like trying to push water back in the faucet with it wide open!
@@zeke112964
I understand. Like I said though...
Seen it, read it.. obviously possible. Since I haven't messed with it, and don't have the manual in front of me, technicalities are likely missing.
And again, if I could post a picture of the manual.
Thank you!
I learned a lot from this ..
ie...my system may have another problem.. 🙏
The AC Pro brand applicator hoses are 2ft long, buy one just for the hose. Then you can use whatever bargain 134a cans you want as long as they are self sealing.
You shouldn't be playing around with those cans with a generic low side gauge. Just go spend $50 at harbor freight tools and buy an actual manifold set with low and high side gauges. All you're doing is introducing air into the system with that can since the hose wasn't purged. Don't take this guy's advice folks, just do it the correct way, at the very least purge the hose on the can. I understand that not everyone has a vacuum pump and a recovery machine at their disposal, but come on man.
Lol, yeah he was kinda a dick about the whole thing..
@Danbeater it's the only legal way to do it, that's all.
thank you was about to say but you saved me some time
If you take money to do ac work you are legally required to have a reclamation machine. Fines begin at 10k and go up. I worry about not knowing what the high side is. If you have a plugged oriface tube or stuck expansion valve you will cause real problems like a locked compressor or blown lines.
ive done it both ways with no difference... I just slap the can on now without drawing a vacuum
One tip I would add would be to have someone hold the throttle up just a little above idle, this helps the compressor take in the refrigerant, also a pan of hot water to put the can in, not necessarily when you start but shortly after you start to charge, because the pressure in the can will drop and the can will get really cold and the refrigerant will not go in as the pressure in the can is to low.. warming it up with the pan of HOT water will raise the pressure in the can so it will go into the system.
Thank you Kevin...this is the kind of comments we need
Just "jump" the compressor at the dryer instead of wasting gas...
@@phillipmota5945 That doesn't get your rpm's up
@@phillipmota5945 You want the compressor running at a higher RPM not just running. This helps in take in refrigerant.
No heating up the can. Idiots will overheat it and blow it up.
So basically when in doubt read the directions. Good video.
Super detailed and helpful info. Thanks for sharing!!!
I like your video, you're absolutely right about everything you said and I agree.. not long ago there was somebody that wanted a can of r134a put in their system and I showed them that it didn't need it because it was in the green but they insisted so I did so I went from 35 in the green down to 30 by putting some in there (I couldn't figure that out) I gave them what they asked for even though it went against the directions.. some people just don't get it
But YOU did it ???
@@tif321dc I had no choice it was my pastor's car and he wanted it done no matter what I said
@@rickigunter1960 it's all that _fire & brimstone_ they be pontificated about. They gotta always have it 10 degrees cooler just to level up 😅
As a certified technician If it's low there's a reason . There's a reason why it's low or empty take it to a shop The system doesn't know if it's air or refrigerate in the system get it done right
People are idiots.
I could add from my recent experience is that you connect the hose to the low pressure port while the engine is off , then you switch the car on to do the process , when all done you switch the car off to disconnect the hose .I.e connecting and disconnecting while engine off ( all of this was on the instructions guide on the gas cylinder I bought)
Good video by a man who knows what he's talking about
HFC R134A must be charged by MSD specs (weight) The over the counter stuff is just for an emergency. There may be several reasons as to why your vehicle's AC is no cooling properly. If the vents inside the car don't feel cool and the system is set at max, then it's either a leak or one or more of the system's components are faulty. However, you could try the old rattle can charge to see if it will get cooler. If it does get cooler then wait to see for how long. If it goes back to warmer again, then more than likely your system is leaking. Note: Not all mechanic shops are truly AC specialist. If you really want the issue properly diagnosed and fixed, and if you're willing to pay the $'s, you need a reputable AC service shop. Most mechanic shops will go through a process of elimination and never find the culprit. And of course, it all comes out of the car owner's wallet. Just saying 😎
The ac system is not that complicated 🤣. Jesus christ man.
@@blue03r6 The most important thing here is to leave The Lord's name out. Are you an AC specialist? To many folks it might be just that easy. If you're the do it yourself type you may be able to google and find the culprit and fix it. That is, if it's a common issue. But certain issues with AC systems are not common at all, and of course not that simple to fix. What if you find out that you need to replace the expansion valve and you happen to have an older model vehicle and the valve is located between the evaporator unit and the firewall ? Or a simple sensor that also located within the evaporator housing that the manufacture put it there just to make the do it yourselfer's life miserable ? Not that simple ! Just my 2...
@@Jazzhog can i say allah damnit?
My experience is the 134A leaks out through the mechanical seal due to lack of use, the compressor is out on LP, trouble is, the gas is a mixture, doesn't all leave evenly, needs to he removed and a new charge weighed in. I have got away with top ups but a new charge is best.
You should have demonstrated a short purge of gas through the hose to remove air and moisture immediately before you connected to the vehicle low pressure port.
I didn’t do none of this. Straight 12 clock while releasing 10-15 sec turned to 3 clock.
Thankfully everything went well & it’s running fresh cold air like new. I went two years without A.C so it was completely empty.
Now I know for next time I do it
Great video explains everything you need to know.
Also check ur cabin air filter
I put the refrigerant can in a container of hot water to provide heat for vaporization and it charges much faster. Also, if you have a full gauge set like I do, the can tap that I have will not work with the self sealing cans available everywhere because when the tap is withdrawn, the can seals itself. These cans are made to work with the type of gadget shown in the video that has a hollow tap that allows the refrigerant to flow.
They do sell a can tap for self sealing cans, got a few. The one with the blue plastic "nut" works best, but may require an adaptor for older gouge sets (sets with R12 tank connectors).
Before finding that, I used to use the puncture tap (green plyers looking thing).
Thanks for the video and showing us mistakes. So is a can of this one and done or you can keep using it after the seal is broke like later or for another car?
You did an excellent job there Billy Bob, accent is a killer..
Beware, charge your a/c in the shade or in the evening, then when you move it to a sunny area the high pressure may go too high creating an overcharge or dangerously high pressure. You really should never charge your a/c without gouges or not being able to monitor the high side.
I'm under the impression no one should be messing with their refrigerant unless they know what they are doing. I've been in the refrigeration business for over a decade now and I've never once "topped off" a system. I've pulled gas in and out to account for ambient temp but not any other time unless a tech didn't know his head from his ass. Low refrigerant always indicates leak if all other conditions are satisfactory.
That's been my experience
Thank you for the video I’m glad I ran across this I’ve been riding around in a hot car going to go to the store and charge up my system thank you
Quite right.
Yes and no... unless there's a clear leak or somthing you can find chances are the compressor shaft seal is leaking.. I'm not super familiar with 609 systems but idk if that's servicable or you'd have to change the compressor? But if its not topping off might be the best fix if it's a small enough leak. Otherwise removing gas and recharging is just going to cause you to introduce noncondensibles during the evacuation.
I have an 07 that's never been serviced. It still works but needs a refresh.
I love the fact that you're calling cooking thermometers "gauges" 😅.
Thanks so much. I love real knowledge. Not trying to upsell something.
Easiest way to change a system properly is to recover the charge “ if any” . Pull an evacuation and charge the system using a scale using a real manifold set and having your suction side and head pressure hoses hooked up taking in consideration ambient temperature 🤷🏻♂️
I also see where it says "STOPS LEAKS" on the can. That means it has stop leak in it which clogs the orifice tube and other components completely destroying your ac system. The only proper way to recharge a system is to reclaim the refrigerant, vacuum test the system, add oil if needed (depending on how much was removed from the reclaim), and refill to proper specification using a weighted machine. This freon in a can is snake oil.
No it isn't. I refilled my Civic with one of these... worked fine for years until I sold the car. HVAC techs can buy canned sealant commercially for old systems not worth major repairs. If nobody bought it they wouldn't sell it so somebody uses it. If a vacuum is pulled you're supposed to weigh in the initial charge then adjust from there using a chart.
@@equid0x you technically fucked over whoever bought your car.
That is why I use a A/C manifold. Depending on outside air temperature low side pressure should be between 20psi to 35 psi
yes, don't over charge... but the best way is to Evacuate the system with vacuum pump and then use a scale to charge the exact amount. this guy is trying to help thumbs up
6:57 you did not purge the atmosphere from the fill hose. You have introduced air and moisture to this system.
Line purge is considered deminimus release and allowed.
Even small amounts of atmosphere can become the early failure point of ac systems in a few years time.
Use air to blow out the low side port after you wipe it down, anything retained within that port gets pumped into the system.
These are critical points.
And cars have receiver dryers to catch moisture and contaminants. Whenever the system is opened, you must replace these components, evacuate the air with a vacuum pump, then recharge.
You really need to know what the high side pressure is too, there can be a blockage or an airflow issue through the condenser while the low side is below threshold & the high side way over pressure.
Yes yes but involving specifics kind of takes away from the hope that a major problem can be fixed real quick, doesn’t it? It’ll work almost half the time just like this. I think people that buy these cans are ready to write it off if the quick fix doesn’t work. If not then you’re absolutely right, and it can even cause more damage and cost them more money in the long run.
@Terrence Carbuncle with the addition of Adjacent Dimension Conflabulator technology, repairs will only get more complicated from here
@Terrence Carbuncle I agree, these cans are used for quick recharge. Not hard. But what hurts is when it's a problem somewhere else, high side or condenser or block tubing & because we can't tell, we continue to fill & it's causing a problem. We just need to understand how the system fills & work.
Is there a port for the high side somewhere as well?
@@cassiearchey yes, there's a high & low port both. The Walmart cans you get will only connect to the low side. If there's a blockage or an air flow restriction through the condenser it could have extremely high pressures & you'll never know it if you're only seeing the low side pressure.
What was the discharge pressure of this sealed system before anything added?