Scorpion EVO 3 - ASG - Disassembly
Vložit
- čas přidán 15. 12. 2016
- The Scorpio EVO 3 from ASG is a good Airsoft gun, featuring a mosfet / ASCU with burst mode, quick spring change system, and high quality.
So let's take it apart :-)
If you want to fix a broken gun, or perhaps take it apart so you can upgrade it. Just follow this video guide, or go to:
airsofttech.dk/Guides.cshtml?P...
Where the disassembly guide can be found in text and pictures.
This video is the first of my disassembly guide series where I will show you how to take apart a bunch of different types of guns. I hope you will enjoy :-) - Zábava
Extremely helpfull. Nice gun btw!
Thank you very much.
For the spring swap? What size hex is that?
Quick question
Is that coking handle supposed to be out like that? i put a new spring after loosing the coking handle spring and now the chamber doesn’t close properly
Hi Scorpion fans! Thank you for the video!
I have an issue with mine, the barrel is wobbling I think, and shots are extremely inconsistent. It is a long version and the barrel is perfectly placed into the silencer. Just for extra information, the barrel is almost protruding out of the silencer, that is how well placed it is.
Now, I changed the hop up joint/rubber and even the barrel but I still face the same issue.
I even tried with the original barrel but still, I face the same issue. What could be the cause and how can I fix it?
Also, where can I buy this spring 0:45 ? I lost mine :/
For the spring I used a pen byro spring 😂 in what way is it inconsistent ? Accuracy or power or both ?
My bolt release just dangles after I put it together. Any idea why this is happening? It doesn’t work anymore after I put it back together.
should a bit of fray near my tamiya be a problem if i have electrical tape around it? Cuz i use it with a peq box and i run it through the side without the sling hole and i accidentally slightly crimped the red wire and you could slightly see the inner wires so i wrapped both the black and red wire in electrical tape together where it was frayed. Or should i be freaked out and thinking about sending it in (if you can)?
Ofcause it depends on how damaged the metal wires inside are... It sounds like you have "minor" damage to the internal wire strands and that's not a problem. Just remember to wrap the read and black wires indivitualy! So first put tape on the red, then the black, and then wrap them together .... What you can do to check it: Is to shoot 1-2 in semi mode as fast as you can. Then feel the wires where they are damaged. If the damaged part get's hotter than the rest of the wire then it's a problem..... (Damaged wires will have increased resistance and will heat up more)
Is the full disassembly required for hop up work? Or can you get away with just splitting the upper?
You have to take it all appart :-(
would you help point me to a full cleaning guild for the scorpion evo? Thanks!
My evo just broke down, doing some small test in my house, clanking gear sound, then 2 beeps after a fire. One beep when plugging in. (Happened after the evo high cap stopt feeding because it needed a new wind) think the gear are broken. (Shoots 350-355fps and has ball bearing spring guide )
Well the evo is pretty well made, but failures does happen ... If you are only shooting 350 ish, then when you have the gearbox open switch to 16:1 cnc gears ... Then you will see god ROF improvements ;-) ...
AirsoftTeknik.dk it shoots/shot up to 360 at chrono (exactly our limit). Also asked scorpion evo owner club and they reccomend: Short stroked 16:1 cnc gears, asg m170 piston, optionsl blue asg pistonhead and solder it to deans or xt60 (To solve pre engagement)
However, since I did nothing “wrong” or modify it, and I want it to be reliable, I might want to go full upgrade now already even though it means losing warranty(?). Already missed my 3rd game because of it breaking.
Was considering a cyma p90 as backup, but the stock barrel is bad and then I need alot of mags again before it works. I’d probably rather spend it on the evo.
Thanks again for the reply! You are great, happy subscriber here and also waiting for your deans upgrade difference in rps and more video.
Currently it already shoots 20.8rps oncmax charged lipo. How much to expect with 16:1 and deans (or seperatly?)
Changing to deans will give you 1-3 rps ... (But a MUCH better trigger response!) ... 16:1 gears will give you 3-5 rps ... so I expect that combined you will get around 5-6 rps ish :-)
Short stroking with a higher rating spring is a way to improve ROF, but should NOT be done without doing a full upgrade, because it does add alot of stress on the components....
Also the p90's high caps are BAD !!! they almost all miss feed ... so if you do get a p90 go for midcap mags ;-)
Did u figure out what it was. Happened to me
3:22 mine came missing with this screw?
whats the diameter for the CW thread wich the outerbarrelextension screws on?
It's late, but it's 18mm. Hope it's still useful
Hey how is it going! I was wondering if I would be able to contact you for help? I am not tech savvy and need to open up my gun to change my gears as they are busted.
Hey. All contact with us should be done using our contact form: airsofttech.dk/EmailMe.cshtml
Comparing that spring change to a Krytac CRB MkII is literally night and day. You have to rip the entire CRB apart to pull the spring and this thing's stock just slides off
Yep It's really verry differet ideas ... ICS also has there own way with the split gearbox idea ...
My bolt wont lock back when the charging handle is on the left side but locks back when I switch it over to the right side. Anyone having this problem? It's really annoying
Nope! But I have noticed it works weird on the right side, almost like forcing it. The spring of the cover is on the right side, maybe it moved a little...
My EVO 3 arrived with two loose springs rolling around in the box. I determined from this video that the fat one goes in the front section with the charging handle, but the long. skinny one has me at a loss. I think it goes behind the dust guard, since my dust guard is stuck in the opened position, but I did not see you remove a spring from that vicinity. If you did and I just missed it, could someone post a timestamp or provide advice on how to fix this issue? Thanks.
If it is very long and very thin then yes it may be the "Ejection port / hop-up cover" spring that should push it back to lock position ....
At 6:01 I remove that spring from the gun :-)
Yes! Thank you, now if only I could actually get inside the thing. The bolt behind the stock won't budge. I saw you do it by hand, but I can't even get my full body weight to move it, so I am considering trying some WD-40, but I also don't want to go overboard and void my warranty if it turns out I actually have to return it.
I'm not 100% sure what bolt you are talking about ... Is it the Spring guide you are refering to ???
at the 01:20 mark in the video I remove the spring guide ....
If it's the spring guide you are talking about, you have to press it into the gun about 5 mm - 1 cm before you turn ... the turning force should be minimal but it does take a bit of force to push it into the gun ...
The button to remove the stock had a hex on it and it threw me off. I am not a clever man. Your answer to my first question really saved my bacon though once I finally got inside it.
Had the same issue with mine. spring fell out and i had to put it back in. he takes out the spring at around 6:05 in the video
I tried to get the thing that holds the gearbox spring to turn and now its stuck, someone please help!
You have to first do one shot in semi to make sure the pistol is all the way forwards ... Then: PUSH the sping guide (then thing that holds the spring) into the gearbox around 5-10 mm then turn ....
How long until gearbox :P?
I have been sick (Sad but true - herniated disk) .... So that's why i have not posted in a while... The Gearbox video is almost done now and will be posted within a week :-)
In case you missed it: The gearbox video is out now ... czcams.com/video/5DwyXR8GMSs/video.html