I got one of these amazing little guns and a carbine Evo on the way... this gun already has every kind of upgrade you'd want as is... Already put 7,000 + bb's through it, most of them tracer (don't forget to get the 18 mm to 14 mm adapter for it otherwise you havehave to choose your suppressors and tracer units jusa to fit an 18 mm and das not good)... Couldn't bear to tear into it just to grease the gearbox! So i removed the motor and sprayed several spritz of Evike spray gearbox grease through the hole. Just the right consistency (i.e. snot-like) Does it help or do anything, beats me, but makes me feel better, also you know when the gun's heating up from too much firing cause you can SMELL THE GREASE, yet.
...already sent away for an upgrade stronger spring and the metal spring guide, but when they got here i had second thoughts about adding a stronger spring... i have already heard plenty about gearboxes breaking and decided no reason to give that problem a head start by adding the power spring...
The weak part in the EVO is the gears (AND SPRING GUIDE) :-( so if you get some nice steal gears (18:1 for m120-m130) you can go up to an m130 spring with no problem... (Most evos shoot around 135 on 130 springs) ... But REMEMBER TO GET THE UPGRATED SPRING GUIDE !!!! .... Reguarding the "snot" gear grease: Most brands of it is semi conductive meaning that it can KILL electronics :-( And the mosfet is electric, and located INDIDE the gearbox! So beware that the snot grease CAN end up killing the mosfet if you are unlocky :-( .... That's why We at my airsoft company NEAVER put that stuff inside the EVO gearbox... A light layer of none conductive grease around the teeth and bushings THAT's it ....
Ive read switching to Deans is a bad idea with the evo because the mosfet cant handle the additional stress. I have one of the First models. Do you have any recommendation? Thanks!
Omg ! At the end when u check it, the engine says bip bip and cuts of the power, i have the same problem ! But with a brand new batteri newly charged, but stil have the same problem.... what should i do next ??
Mine has about 3,500 bb's through it and FWIW i just removed the motor (tricky - it has little springs around the terminals and if you lose one the gun will not work!), and used Evike spray grease... i squirted some up inside the hole... IDK if this helps any, so far. (by the way, did you really put the gears back dry?) I don't see any reason to remove the mosfet if it works, might as well just leave it alone, there's more then enough to go wrong without asking for more problems. I went to your link on buying the gears but what do you do if you don't speak Danish, is there some other source? And unless a gears broken like with this one (boy, yours sure did have a lot of broken parts inside!) , I'm thinking just change the spring guide (since it helps the spring rotate how it ought to) and leave the spring stock, if you wind up with broken parts what earthly good is another few FPS anyway?
It was a customers gun (He agreed to have it shown in the videos) ... He had tried to change the spring and broke the spring guide in the process ... And the broken part later on jammed in the gears destroying allot of parts ... Reguarding the "snot" gear grease: Some brands of it is semi conductive meaning that it can KILL electronics :-( And the mosfet is electric, and located INDIDE the gearbox! So beware that the snot grease CAN end up killing the mosfet if you are unlocky :-( .... That's why We at my airsoft company NEAVER put that stuff inside the EVO gearbox... A light layer of none conductive grease around the teeth and bushings THAT's it .... That's why they look dry. They are not dry just coded with a very light layer of grease ... Yous should 100% change the spring guide to a upgraded one.... Regarding gears as long as you have stock spring and it's working leave it .... When the gears break upgrade to steel gears to 18:1 or 16:1 if you use a 120 spring or lower ... The 16:1 with 120 or lower spring will give better rate of fire ...
Well: The best upgrades depends on how you plan on using it ... If you want a bit more speed (ROF / RPS / RPM) it can take 16:1 gears very well (as long as you have springs under 130m). And that is WITHOUT having to change the expensive motor!... I have personalty upgraded many EVO's using these gears: airsoftteknik.dk/VareDetaljer/VareDetaljer.cshtml?VareKode=004001 If you want to buy these exact gears from other country's than Denmark just drop them a message using the form here: airsoftteknik.dk/Kontakt Then they will give you the total including shipping ... But be aware that changing gears will require you to open the box, and 're-shim' it after the change .... The bearing spring guide is a GOOD change !!! Changing the spring to match your field's limits is of cause a must doo ... (But I assume you already did that) ... And the final (Kinda must do) is to change the battery plug's ... The default small tamya plugs just simply can't deliver the power that the motor wants.... And it's just so dam simple to solder them off and solder on Dean-T plugs on your battery and gun for more power delivery .... Again go to: "airsoftteknik.dk/Kontakt" and send them a message (First field is your e-mail, second just a subject, and the big field is for the message) ... They understand English Very Well! And reply pretty quick :-) And if you just tell them what gun you have and where in the world you live, they will send you a "Suggestion's list" with a total price and you are not required to purchage anything ;-)
AirsoftTech.dk Thank you for the reply! I live in The Netherlands and field limits are 360fps max for full auto capable guns. Currently I have m105 asg milspec spring and ball bearing guide its 99.9% of the time under 360 fps and had a few 361fps reading unfortunately but mostly it is 346-354 with 0.20gr. Thanks for the reply, the connectors are a pretty easy one indeed :) would feel bad if I have to send an email because shipping to dk is probably not an option for replicas here though. :/ Since I am still a airsoft noob, but have technical skills (used to be car mechanic) I might want to do the deans connector (or even better ones) first
The reason that I recommend Dean-T plug's is (As I will demonstrate in another video later this year) that they can handle the full startup current of an Airsoft motor (Given the motor is not insanely under powered) ... Other plug's (Like the XT60) may be able do handle slightly larger currents, but it's not nessesary ... So because Dean-T is enough, and still a very common plug type on airsoft guns that's what i reccomend :-)
Regarding range: When you can't increase the FPS, then it's all about hop-Up ... Almost any kind of high quality is slightly better than the standard (Will give you ½ a meter+) ... R-Hop (if you can find a person that can make it correctly) will be even better than just using a good rubber .... My personal experience is that R-Hop (And flat hop and all the other hinds of hop up styles) gives you 1-5 meters max! of extra range... And 5 extra meters is only when done extremely well .... Please don't kill me !!! The "1-5 meters max" statement is PURELY my own real world experience. I Know that many people (often people that make money by installing R-Hop's) say that they can increase range by 10 meters ... Personaly I have NEAVER seen an hop-up improvement increase range by 10 meters... (Unless the gun was an old gun where the hop-up did not really work ) So open the gun (Not the gearbox) czcams.com/video/nTwYvnsiumw/video.html and put in a good quality rubber in the hop-up... That may increase the range a couple of feet ... Acuracy wise: If you use very high (often expensive) bb's you could put in a 6.02 or 6.01 for a bit of extra acuracy .... But be aware that smaller diameter will risk giving you more jams ...
Takker for denne guide min evo bet lavede problemer og dobbelt bibede så brugte hele dagen /aften /noget nat på at skille hele dyret ad og justerer så tror ikke der er en dims i evo'en jeg ikke kan skifte nu. Spørgsmål, er det normalt at inderløbet kan drejes rundt med fingrene? Det gør løbet på min så måske er det en dårlig c klip? Andet evt eller er det normalt på b. e. t version
Nej det er ikke normalt ... så ja der må være en dårlig C klip ... men når den er så løs må der også vær et dårlig fit (for stort hul) imellem inderløb og hopup.... Du bør bruge et par omviklinger af "teflon tape" som fås i alle supermarkeder .... du vikler bare en 2-3 omgange teflon tape om løbet (IKKE dække hop up hullet) inden du sætter gummi på og så det hele tilbage i .... Så bør det side bedre fast, og blive en anelse mere tæt ....
Does someone know what causes the gun to double peep? (At 12:45) Cause I got that issue and don’t know what to do, I’m guessing it’s the motor but I’m not sure
It means that the mosfet found an anomality with the gun. Eg. Motor not turning as expected ... Check that your motor wires are firmly attached for one ... If the problem persists you may have a broken gear set or another broken part inside the gun ...
It is a special one made for the evo ... So you can't just fit any mosfet... BUT: With som dremmel work and a bit of knowledge it could be done .... Should I make a video showing how ???
I just ordered one of these guns... my plan, shoot the hell out of it during the first year, if it breaks, hope the factory in Denmark honors the warranty well...once you get the gears out, just hose em off with brake cleaner, wipe em off - tada! Clean. They look a little light on the grease as they are, but IDK, the factory knows something i don't, no doubt. the thermal grease is a clever touch, indeed! Did the factory short the gearbox on the paste or what. No way the factory would put that there. BTW did you really put the gears back in DRY???
No the FCU is not coated on the EVO :-/ ... The pcb's traces is (as with most PCB's) covered by masking ink that makes the traces protected... But the rest of the components are "just" soldered on, no protection added... In our shop "AirsoftTeknik.Dk" (Currently only selling in Denmark) we have worked on 2 different EVO's where small metal peaces has broken loos (1 gear tooth that snapped of, and one where the spring guide tab was broken off) and ended up short circuiting the FCU (Resulting in dead FCU's)... So in general coating it's not realy needed, but when metal peaces break it would have been nice if it had a coating so the expencive FCU don't break...
I got one of these amazing little guns and a carbine Evo on the way... this gun already has every kind of upgrade you'd want as is... Already put 7,000 + bb's through it, most of them tracer (don't forget to get the 18 mm to 14 mm adapter for it otherwise you havehave to choose your suppressors and tracer units jusa to fit an 18 mm and das not good)... Couldn't bear to tear into it just to grease the gearbox! So i removed the motor and sprayed several spritz of Evike spray gearbox grease through the hole. Just the right consistency (i.e. snot-like) Does it help or do anything, beats me, but makes me feel better, also you know when the gun's heating up from too much firing cause you can SMELL THE GREASE, yet.
...already sent away for an upgrade stronger spring and the metal spring guide, but when they got here i had second thoughts about adding a stronger spring... i have already heard plenty about gearboxes breaking and decided no reason to give that problem a head start by adding the power spring...
The weak part in the EVO is the gears (AND SPRING GUIDE) :-( so if you get some nice steal gears (18:1 for m120-m130) you can go up to an m130 spring with no problem... (Most evos shoot around 135 on 130 springs) ... But REMEMBER TO GET THE UPGRATED SPRING GUIDE !!!! .... Reguarding the "snot" gear grease: Most brands of it is semi conductive meaning that it can KILL electronics :-( And the mosfet is electric, and located INDIDE the gearbox! So beware that the snot grease CAN end up killing the mosfet if you are unlocky :-( .... That's why We at my airsoft company NEAVER put that stuff inside the EVO gearbox... A light layer of none conductive grease around the teeth and bushings THAT's it ....
Ive read switching to Deans is a bad idea with the evo because the mosfet cant handle the additional stress. I have one of the First models. Do you have any recommendation? Thanks!
Do you know were i can order a new full gearbox?
Are the piston, and piston head V2 compatible
Nice, thank you.
You are very welcome. If you have any questions, feel free to ask.
So what is proprietary in the EVO 3. What parts are not V2?
Omg ! At the end when u check it, the engine says bip bip and cuts of the power, i have the same problem ! But with a brand new batteri newly charged, but stil have the same problem.... what should i do next ??
Mine has about 3,500 bb's through it and FWIW i just removed the motor (tricky - it has little springs around the terminals and if you lose one the gun will not work!), and used Evike spray grease... i squirted some up inside the hole... IDK if this helps any, so far. (by the way, did you really put the gears back dry?) I don't see any reason to remove the mosfet if it works, might as well just leave it alone, there's more then enough to go wrong without asking for more problems. I went to your link on buying the gears but what do you do if you don't speak Danish, is there some other source? And unless a gears broken like with this one (boy, yours sure did have a lot of broken parts inside!) , I'm thinking just change the spring guide (since it helps the spring rotate how it ought to) and leave the spring stock, if you wind up with broken parts what earthly good is another few FPS anyway?
It was a customers gun (He agreed to have it shown in the videos) ... He had tried to change the spring and broke the spring guide in the process ... And the broken part later on jammed in the gears destroying allot of parts ...
Reguarding the "snot" gear grease: Some brands of it is semi conductive meaning that it can KILL electronics :-( And the mosfet is electric, and located INDIDE the gearbox! So beware that the snot grease CAN end up killing the mosfet if you are unlocky :-( .... That's why We at my airsoft company NEAVER put that stuff inside the EVO gearbox... A light layer of none conductive grease around the teeth and bushings THAT's it .... That's why they look dry. They are not dry just coded with a very light layer of grease ...
Yous should 100% change the spring guide to a upgraded one.... Regarding gears as long as you have stock spring and it's working leave it .... When the gears break upgrade to steel gears to 18:1 or 16:1 if you use a 120 spring or lower ... The 16:1 with 120 or lower spring will give better rate of fire ...
Hi nice video, can you explain how you time the gears please?
Hey What do you mean by seying time the gears ?? You mean Shim gears ???
What are the best or easy upgrades for scorpion evo? I fitted bearing spring guide and might want more :)
Well: The best upgrades depends on how you plan on using it ...
If you want a bit more speed (ROF / RPS / RPM) it can take 16:1 gears very well (as long as you have springs under 130m). And that is WITHOUT having to change the expensive motor!... I have personalty upgraded many EVO's using these gears: airsoftteknik.dk/VareDetaljer/VareDetaljer.cshtml?VareKode=004001 If you want to buy these exact gears from other country's than Denmark just drop them a message using the form here: airsoftteknik.dk/Kontakt Then they will give you the total including shipping ...
But be aware that changing gears will require you to open the box, and 're-shim' it after the change ....
The bearing spring guide is a GOOD change !!!
Changing the spring to match your field's limits is of cause a must doo ... (But I assume you already did that) ...
And the final (Kinda must do) is to change the battery plug's ... The default small tamya plugs just simply can't deliver the power that the motor wants.... And it's just so dam simple to solder them off and solder on Dean-T plugs on your battery and gun for more power delivery ....
Again go to: "airsoftteknik.dk/Kontakt" and send them a message (First field is your e-mail, second just a subject, and the big field is for the message) ... They understand English Very Well! And reply pretty quick :-) And if you just tell them what gun you have and where in the world you live, they will send you a "Suggestion's list" with a total price and you are not required to purchage anything ;-)
AirsoftTech.dk Thank you for the reply! I live in The Netherlands and field limits are 360fps max for full auto capable guns. Currently I have m105 asg milspec spring and ball bearing guide its 99.9% of the time under 360 fps and had a few 361fps reading unfortunately but mostly it is 346-354 with 0.20gr.
Thanks for the reply, the connectors are a pretty easy one indeed :) would feel bad if I have to send an email because shipping to dk is probably not an option for replicas here though. :/
Since I am still a airsoft noob, but have technical skills (used to be car mechanic) I might want to do the deans connector (or even better ones) first
AirsoftTech.dk forgotnto mention; goal is accuracy and if possible more range and then RoF at sub 360fps wise
The reason that I recommend Dean-T plug's is (As I will demonstrate in another video later this year) that they can handle the full startup current of an Airsoft motor (Given the motor is not insanely under powered) ... Other plug's (Like the XT60) may be able do handle slightly larger currents, but it's not nessesary ...
So because Dean-T is enough, and still a very common plug type on airsoft guns that's what i reccomend :-)
Regarding range: When you can't increase the FPS, then it's all about hop-Up ... Almost any kind of high quality is slightly better than the standard (Will give you ½ a meter+) ... R-Hop (if you can find a person that can make it correctly) will be even better than just using a good rubber .... My personal experience is that R-Hop (And flat hop and all the other hinds of hop up styles) gives you 1-5 meters max! of extra range... And 5 extra meters is only when done extremely well ....
Please don't kill me !!! The "1-5 meters max" statement is PURELY my own real world experience. I Know that many people (often people that make money by installing R-Hop's) say that they can increase range by 10 meters ... Personaly I have NEAVER seen an hop-up improvement increase range by 10 meters... (Unless the gun was an old gun where the hop-up did not really work )
So open the gun (Not the gearbox) czcams.com/video/nTwYvnsiumw/video.html and put in a good quality rubber in the hop-up... That may increase the range a couple of feet ...
Acuracy wise: If you use very high (often expensive) bb's you could put in a 6.02 or 6.01 for a bit of extra acuracy .... But be aware that smaller diameter will risk giving you more jams ...
Takker for denne guide min evo bet lavede problemer og dobbelt bibede så brugte hele dagen /aften /noget nat på at skille hele dyret ad og justerer så tror ikke der er en dims i evo'en jeg ikke kan skifte nu. Spørgsmål, er det normalt at inderløbet kan drejes rundt med fingrene? Det gør løbet på min så måske er det en dårlig c klip? Andet evt eller er det normalt på b. e. t version
Nej det er ikke normalt ... så ja der må være en dårlig C klip ... men når den er så løs må der også vær et dårlig fit (for stort hul) imellem inderløb og hopup.... Du bør bruge et par omviklinger af "teflon tape" som fås i alle supermarkeder .... du vikler bare en 2-3 omgange teflon tape om løbet (IKKE dække hop up hullet) inden du sætter gummi på og så det hele tilbage i .... Så bør det side bedre fast, og blive en anelse mere tæt ....
AirsoftTech.dk super tak for hjælpen og nogle gode videoer.
what size of bearing i need if i want to replce the bushing?
They are 8mm bushings.
Does someone know what causes the gun to double peep? (At 12:45) Cause I got that issue and don’t know what to do, I’m guessing it’s the motor but I’m not sure
It means that the mosfet found an anomality with the gun. Eg. Motor not turning as expected ... Check that your motor wires are firmly attached for one ... If the problem persists you may have a broken gear set or another broken part inside the gun ...
Is the mosfet proprietary or can it be swapped ?
It is a special one made for the evo ... So you can't just fit any mosfet... BUT: With som dremmel work and a bit of knowledge it could be done .... Should I make a video showing how ???
Would be great if you could. Thanks
can i change v2 siegetek gear?
Yes ... All V2 gears fit's in the gearbox :-) ..
I just ordered one of these guns... my plan, shoot the hell out of it during the first year, if it breaks, hope the factory in Denmark honors the warranty well...once you get the gears out, just hose em off with brake cleaner, wipe em off - tada! Clean. They look a little light on the grease as they are, but IDK, the factory knows something i don't, no doubt. the thermal grease is a clever touch, indeed! Did the factory short the gearbox on the paste or what. No way the factory would put that there. BTW did you really put the gears back in DRY???
Is the PCB of the FCU coated?
No the FCU is not coated on the EVO :-/ ... The pcb's traces is (as with most PCB's) covered by masking ink that makes the traces protected... But the rest of the components are "just" soldered on, no protection added... In our shop "AirsoftTeknik.Dk" (Currently only selling in Denmark) we have worked on 2 different EVO's where small metal peaces has broken loos (1 gear tooth that snapped of, and one where the spring guide tab was broken off) and ended up short circuiting the FCU (Resulting in dead FCU's)... So in general coating it's not realy needed, but when metal peaces break it would have been nice if it had a coating so the expencive FCU don't break...
Can we have v3 gearbox
We got v3 gearbox at home
V3 gearbox at home: