This is hands-down best tutorial out there on iracing ffb setup. Checks all the boxes, understanding concept, how-to and challenge for the person to work on the craft. I'm glad i was able to come across this vid. Too many garbage tutorials out there just telling you how to click the auto feature.
Thank you, thank you thank you Thank you. I've been on iRacing on and off for about a year. I'll give it a go... then end up doing doing a dozen or races.... mess with the settings and always end up frustrated go back to ACC, get pissed off at ACC because nobody has any sportsmanship, stop racing for a while, and the cycle repeats. But now I finally feel like I understand...... I love the ffb on acc. It's the closest SIM for me that feels close to real life. I've only driven vintage race cars and my old 71 240 Z. After watching this video I actually fell like I understanding what the settings do. I already knocked a second off my lap times and only did 10 laps. And I can actually catch the car when it starts to get loose or I hit a bump. I had it on auto. I'm using a DD Pro with CSL pedals. The perfect SIM for me would be acc's graphics and force feedback and everything else that iracing has.
Thanks for the video Adam. FYI - I'm 99% certain Linear mode has nothing to do with smoothing out the FFB per your description. Linear mode simply means iRacing will send the FFB without modification. With it unchecked, iRacing will allow you to scale the FFB so that you can boost the low end forces. That helps lower powered wheels, along with some tweaks to the min force setting.
Interesting. I have been iracing for a couple of days. Almost everyone says use irFFB, so I did. And straight away I was a little slower, its nice to have a little pushbackso you know when the tires are stretching latterally before they break away, but I lost a little something elsewhere. I don't know what it is but it ends up with less confidence, Plus the seat uf your pants counter force adds slop in the middle of my TS PC Racer that isn't there. I think it pishes each way when you are slightly off center and feels horrible. Thank for the video. I will have to try the vanilla FFB and check out part 2. Curious to see how the odd force settings you mention behave. I really want to get the impression of tire rubber starting to give like my Miata in real life. thats the warning I'm not feeling without the irFFB, but lose confidence elsewhere.
csl DD . ive always used IRFFB but ive tried it without because of your video. i went for 8wheel force and 40 max force and it feels really good . not sure whats better to be honest lol. its all subjective anyway
Hi Adam , I have a little question, I use yesterday for the first time my new GSI Wheel on my dd1 but my problem is , I can put the dd1 to high tork when I turning the wheel 90 degrees to the right and the display indicate high tork but the feeling is I have no ffb , and when I put again my f1 fanatec wheel the high tork come back , I’m lost and I don’t know what to test anymore … big thanks 🙏
I know this has been asked and answered a bunch of times in the GSI Discord. Unfortunately I don't remember what the solution is. Take a look there and see if you can find the solution.
Late reply here @pointecorde but try updating all of your drivers/fanalab etc. My gsi works well on my dd1 and all I've done so far is keep everything up to date
Yes and I'm not a fan so it's set to 0. It will apply a low pass filter to the force feedback signal to smooth out the higher frequency noise. A value of 0% gives you the origional signal without any smoothing. Increasing smoothing will increase signal latency a small amount so use sparingly.
@@AdamHeart I didn't notice much difference between the 15% default and 0% except with the Lotus 79. I get wild oscillations in my wheel at very low speed (idling in first shakes everything that isn't bolted down off my rig onto the floor) with the Lotus on my CSL DD, and it does quiet that slightly.
So I have the simagic alpha 15nm. So what would be a good starting point for me? I would assume 25nm if my math is correct which most of the time it’s not
Thank you for this in depth explanation. Personally I use irFFB on a CSL DD, but honestly I don't know if that is better or I just got used to that when I started a year ago and some CZcams video told me to do it. Have you used it?
I have and I quickly got rid of it. I'll actually explain why in part 2 of this, but the main reason is that irFFB acts as a middle man between your wheel base and iRacing while completely blocking your wheelbase and iRacing from communicating with each other. Both signals must pass through irFFB first and I'm not a fan of that. I'm not saying it's bad and you should stop using it. Just a personal preference.
@@AdamHeart interested to hear that as well. I’ve seen plenty suggest it but for a DD to me it seems useless. While adding latency and that the official code is dead but users forked their own repository to keep it alive..
I have figured it out. I had installed my fanatec drives on my laptop. where Iracing is on my desktop I did not have the drivers installed. what was throwing me off was the wheel shifter everything worked just not the FFB. once the drivers were installed the box for the FFB wasnt gray and i could click it.
This is hands-down best tutorial out there on iracing ffb setup. Checks all the boxes, understanding concept, how-to and challenge for the person to work on the craft. I'm glad i was able to come across this vid. Too many garbage tutorials out there just telling you how to click the auto feature.
Best explaination EVER!
Thank you, thank you thank you Thank you. I've been on iRacing on and off for about a year. I'll give it a go... then end up doing doing a dozen or races.... mess with the settings and always end up frustrated go back to ACC, get pissed off at ACC because nobody has any sportsmanship, stop racing for a while, and the cycle repeats. But now I finally feel like I understand...... I love the ffb on acc. It's the closest SIM for me that feels close to real life. I've only driven vintage race cars and my old 71 240 Z. After watching this video I actually fell like I understanding what the settings do. I already knocked a second off my lap times and only did 10 laps. And I can actually catch the car when it starts to get loose or I hit a bump. I had it on auto. I'm using a DD Pro with CSL pedals.
The perfect SIM for me would be acc's graphics and force feedback and everything else that iracing has.
Thanks for the video Adam. FYI - I'm 99% certain Linear mode has nothing to do with smoothing out the FFB per your description. Linear mode simply means iRacing will send the FFB without modification. With it unchecked, iRacing will allow you to scale the FFB so that you can boost the low end forces. That helps lower powered wheels, along with some tweaks to the min force setting.
Interesting. I'll have to go back and look into it. I may have misunderstood what I read.
Linear mode is used for DD . If you have a weak wheel like G29 you should not use linear mode !
Interesting. I have been iracing for a couple of days. Almost everyone says use irFFB, so I did. And straight away I was a little slower, its nice to have a little pushbackso you know when the tires are stretching latterally before they break away, but I lost a little something elsewhere. I don't know what it is but it ends up with less confidence, Plus the seat uf your pants counter force adds slop in the middle of my TS PC Racer that isn't there. I think it pishes each way when you are slightly off center and feels horrible.
Thank for the video. I will have to try the vanilla FFB and check out part 2. Curious to see how the odd force settings you mention behave. I really want to get the impression of tire rubber starting to give like my Miata in real life. thats the warning I'm not feeling without the irFFB, but lose confidence elsewhere.
My ffb from a practice session to the start of a race the ffb feels weaker any fix for this
csl DD . ive always used IRFFB but ive tried it without because of your video. i went for 8wheel force and 40 max force and it feels really good . not sure whats better to be honest lol. its all subjective anyway
What are you wheel base settings too please? Thanks
Thank you
Hi Adam , I have a little question, I use yesterday for the first time my new GSI Wheel on my dd1 but my problem is , I can put the dd1 to high tork when I turning the wheel 90 degrees to the right and the display indicate high tork but the feeling is I have no ffb , and when I put again my f1 fanatec wheel the high tork come back , I’m lost and I don’t know what to test anymore … big thanks 🙏
I know this has been asked and answered a bunch of times in the GSI Discord. Unfortunately I don't remember what the solution is. Take a look there and see if you can find the solution.
Late reply here @pointecorde but try updating all of your drivers/fanalab etc. My gsi works well on my dd1 and all I've done so far is keep everything up to date
At 70NM on the top slider has to be almost no heaviness to the wheel at all. Do you find it to be just ultra light?
Not at all. It does take some getting used to. Took me about an hour to adjust
Thanks for the video man. So if I’m using a 10nm base, I should set
10 & 30? Or try around that
10 for sure and 30 seems like a good starting point.
Thanks bud
Great video! Do you have any idea what the new "smoothing" setting is actually doing?
Yes and I'm not a fan so it's set to 0. It will apply a low pass filter to the force feedback signal to smooth out the higher frequency noise. A value of 0% gives you the origional signal without any smoothing. Increasing smoothing will increase signal latency a small amount so use sparingly.
@@AdamHeart I didn't notice much difference between the 15% default and 0% except with the Lotus 79. I get wild oscillations in my wheel at very low speed (idling in first shakes everything that isn't bolted down off my rig onto the floor) with the Lotus on my CSL DD, and it does quiet that slightly.
So I have the simagic alpha 15nm. So what would be a good starting point for me? I would assume 25nm if my math is correct which most of the time it’s not
That should be a good starting point. I'd maybe even go with 30nm on the top slider
G29 doesn't have 5nm. Linear mode not smoothing the FFB curve.
I will leave here the best settings for G29 . Linear mode unticked , wheel force 2.2nm , damping 0 , min force 10% .
Thank you for this in depth explanation. Personally I use irFFB on a CSL DD, but honestly I don't know if that is better or I just got used to that when I started a year ago and some CZcams video told me to do it. Have you used it?
I have and I quickly got rid of it. I'll actually explain why in part 2 of this, but the main reason is that irFFB acts as a middle man between your wheel base and iRacing while completely blocking your wheelbase and iRacing from communicating with each other. Both signals must pass through irFFB first and I'm not a fan of that.
I'm not saying it's bad and you should stop using it. Just a personal preference.
@@AdamHeart interested to hear that as well. I’ve seen plenty suggest it but for a DD to me it seems useless. While adding latency and that the official code is dead but users forked their own repository to keep it alive..
my force feedback box is gray in iracing. I cant even click it to enable it any suggestion? its killing me right now
Does iRacing recognize your wheel?
@@AdamHeart yes everything is working accept the force feedback, and i cant figure out how to make it not gray.
wheel shifters pedels all work well. in the options to enable the feedback is gray not letting me select it. thanks for replying
I have figured it out. I had installed my fanatec drives on my laptop. where Iracing is on my desktop I did not have the drivers installed. what was throwing me off was the wheel shifter everything worked just not the FFB. once the drivers were installed the box for the FFB wasnt gray and i could click it.
8:35 G29 only got 2.2 nm
Auto deffo didn't makes it way to strong
most games just have a percentage slider, wtf is all this nonsense in iracing?