Creating the 53g Aimbot G Pro Superlight
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- čas přidán 24. 07. 2022
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Logitech G Pro X Superlight: geni.us/bIVU
Sennheiser IEMs I use: geni.us/bbYREA
iFixit Mako Tool Kit: geni.us/0qMdH
Soldering Iron: geni.us/jkiKUQU
Desolder Pump: geni.us/bsbLS
Buy the switches, encoder, and glides from:
lethalgaminggear.com/collecti... (US)
ausmodshop.com (AU)
Beardedbob: • THE ULTIMATE 50G LOGIT...
Etsy listing with STL files:
www.etsy.com/listing/98632212...
Here's how to make the best gaming mouse even better.
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Can we just take a second to bask in this man's glory? He knows many, many things about computers, he is actually good at video games (unlike many tech tubers), he is good at modding things, he is a great photographer and video editor (shots look better than LTT imo, they spend like 100k on cameras and have a team of editors), good at writing scripts, makes regular and consistently good content, and is probably good at a bunch of other stuff too. And through all of that, he works out and is jacked.
Completely agree. I wonder what he does for a job... maybe engineering related? Either way, he's the only person on CZcams whose videos I instantly click like on.
@@F1fanatic21 I imagine this is his job
And he has a cool cat.
To be fair, you shouldn't compare him to LTT. He's a CZcamsr and most likely is working independently, without a team. Everything about his videos is his exclusively, from scripts, camera angles, ideas, choices of sponsors, etc. and he only releases videos like once per week.
On the other hand, the Linus Media Group is a decent-sized company already, and there are multiple people working on different types of videos for various channels, which produce videos every day on each channel. You can't expect them to have such unique factors like this guy does. It's like you're comparing your favorite local coffee shop with Starbucks. Either is bad but neither of them is better than the other.
@@therealMrHai Good analogy, i guess that is the reason i like optimum more. He makes videos that seem to reflect his own hobbies and interests which make the videos feel more genuine.
Hey optimum I would really suggest you invest 30 bucks for the SS-02 desoldering pump. Makes the job easier due to better quality and flexible tip.
100% this. The SS-02 is a game changer
Also get a nice soldering iron, something like the pinecil with a set of tips.
Oh yes, it really is a game changer. I used it to desolder every switch from my keyboard to upgrade them. Still took a lot of time, but at least it worked consistently!
or if you have like $300 you can get the hakko desoldering gun idk if you do that much though
@@tomato6102 desoldering gun def make the job so much easier
absolutely zero chance i'm doing all this but cool and entertaining to watch nonetheless
fr lmao
I know it's a tiny battery, but it's a li-po still. So you still have to take extreme care to not short it, especially not by cutting the positive and negative wires together. That's a short right there, when you click. The protection circuit might have just saved you from a tiny but powerful fireball, that ANY lithium battery can be. They are not fun, and anyone attempting this, or any other lithium battery involved mod, please, do not cut the leads together, and never let them touch together when depinned or prepared for soldering!
It would be cool to see you modding a g305 to the extreme as well.
305 is probably easier to modify than this. get a AAA to AA battery adapter, get a honeycomb battery cover, and you'll shave A LOT of weight off that mouse. Get those grip stickers too while at it, they feel really great with the 305. I wouldn't really recommend changing the main switches though.
I tried soldering my own TTC gold (80M) and it never felt the same ever again. Why? because the tension system will ruin itself after disassembly. Getting the LR buttons out was a real bitch to deal with, and it's very easy to accidentally bend them plastic buttons permanently. Bent buttons could result in different travel distance between the button itself and the switch. In my case, I bent my right button downwards, and as a result, my right button had no distance whatsoever from the switch, while the left one is still properly tensioned and had a little distance from the switch. And yeah, you can feel the difference in travel distance really easily. So I just took my left button out again and bent it downwards as well, that fixed the travel distance imbalance problem. So, this method is really a jank one, and I swore I won't open my G305 ever again unless something failed inside.
@@josuad6890 also Lithium battery
You can turn it into a g pro
@@josuad6890 i would still reccomend to switch your switches (haha, get it?) But if you're not comfortable tearing apart the device it could ruin the click tension, but it is better than a double clicking, inconsistent switches
I changed my switches and the LR buttons are really tricky to put apart or put together, but if you really patience it's really not that hard
I might suggest you to reassamble the mouse again, it might just be a misalign plastic plate
@Procurador Bearded Bob did a great one!
Your vids are awesome, thanks so much for experimenting like this, I genuinly feel it help the tech and gaming industry improve their standards by highlighting the missed potential.
Been studying these videos and BeardedBob's for my own first time modding attempt. Thank you so much for your hard work haha
The middle white wire is actually for a thermistor located inside the battery. It is for monitoring battery temperature during charging and usage.
I did all of this a few months ago to my G Pro Wireless instead of my Superlight because I liked the additional features and wanted to see how light I could get it while keeping the DPS button and RGB logo. 60 grams lol 3 grams lighter then a superlight. It was fun as hell. I also got a bottom plate model from Etsy and 3D printed it except mine was honeycomb. Swapped out the battery for a 100mah battery, snipped and dremeled away some unnecessary plastic from the skeleton, etc. Changed all the switches as well. Kailh GM 2.0 Teals and Kailh SMT Mini Greens for the side switches. And put on some Corepad Skatez. So ridiculous but I love it lmao. I didn't even think of 3D printing a new bottom plate using carbon fiber filament till you said something in this video. I have some laying around I'm totally doing that now lol thank you.
Imagine how light it would be if you did it to a superlight
It's like a super light with RGB.
can you share the file?
@@xt0 yeah sure you have discord or somethin?
@@PabzRoz u sent it yet?
Personally I’m fine with the stock weight of the mouse, but I might actually try to change the switches because I’ve always felt the stock ones are quite heavy. Did you ever consider swapping out the side button switches?
I love that he doesn't just build the thing and ends the video, but also goes in depht about how it feels and if it was really worth building
I modded my G305. 3D printed a honeycomb shell, removed the side buttons (I am left-handed, they were useless) and removed the battery tray to install a button cell battery (A675). It went from the stock 99 g with a AA battery to 59 g. I love it. I wouldn't change it for a G Pro Superlight, because the G Pro is too big for my hand.
just finished modding mine and got it down to 48, super hyped about it
Great job, it's quite an involved process to mod such a mouse. I wonder if the 3d printed base will crack since injection molded plastic is very tough in comparison
It's not subject to very large forces at all, I wouldn't expect it to Crack. 3d printed carbon may be even better though. Could be a cool mod
You're actually more likely to have heat issues if printed in PLA than toughness issues. 3D prints are a lot stronger than a lot of people want to assume. *Me included everytime I intentionally try to break one.*
@@ventilate4267This, 3d printed pieces are really only weak when printing tall/small parts vertically. PLA doesnt have the best layer adhesion, and you can work around this vertical stack weakness with many other materials.
It would only crack from bending it and with it attached to the rest of the shell it shouldn't be bending much.
His thumbnails are getting cracked
this is just so great. thank you for that and for your continuos work. I am between the Razer Deathadder/Viper or G-Pro Superlight. I've already modded two mice myself but not to this extend and with that professionel outcome. 150 bucks right out the window would be heartbreaking. Sad that you're in AUS, I'd gladly pay you for 85% of the things you've done with that mouse 😅
I love modding mice. Loosing a few grams can really make a big difference in feel. Also, TJ Exclusives offers a lightweight base for the G Pro X that can drop the weight to 54G without the battery mod or cutting up internals. It also retains the dongle holder.
its only 6 grams, it will drop to 55g
@@haz2022 If you don't keep the magnetic charging base stuff it drops another 1.5g.
My mans cut up internals & slashed his battery life in half but didn't want more holes in the base... Very odd choice.
I find it quite funny that you can get the same weight reduction he achieved with just a single well-made base.
@@timfulton8519 Oh okay!
Yep, if you can make it better then just do it, diy upgrading is one of my favourite activities too, great video
What I like in this channel more than the reviews is the amazing thumbnails I really hope you continue making them!
*Casually puts in clip of INSANE aim training as b-roll*
Legit the only device ive ever modded, Personally only went for switches scroll wheel and pads, but it still changes the mouse so much and makes it what it should've been out the box
Just to point out for ppl that wanna try, Optimum Tech modded the switches to TTC Gold Dustproof 50M, there is a 80M version but both are considered to be on the 'heavier' side of mouse micro switches like the Kailh GM 4.0
I do like them a lot too cuz they are just so much more snappier but I prefer a 'medium' weight like Kailh GM 8.0 for gaming that is a middle ground between the TTC Gold and stock made in China Omron D2FC switches which is considered to be among the lightest of mouse switches
Of course the upper shell and how it contacts the switch makes a big difference in keyfeel so it's very much from a mouse to mouse basis
The stock scroll encoder if I'm not mistaken is a TTC Silver/White Core 8mm that is a more premium "heavier" feeling scroll encoder. Heavier for scroll encoders means each step/notch is more pronounced and tactile feeling
The Kailh Red Core encoder is technically a downgrade because of the lifespan but some ppl prefer a more 'lighter' buttery feeling scroll
I myself prefer a more heavier scroll encoder with very defined and pronounced steps so I use either the Alps encoder or the TTC Gold/Yellow core
As for the mouse skates I recommend Tiger Arc ICE. They're usually cheaper than Corepads but have the same smoothness and glide performance. You can get the Tiger Arc V1 or V2 if you're on a budget but they aren't as frictionless
You can try Pulsar Superglide glass skates but I heard they are almost too fast and that they do dull/roughen up mousepads faster than PTFE skates. So there'll be a rough spot in the middle of your mousepad after a couple weeks or months depending on your usage, but it is currently the skates with the least friction
Source : I offer mouse modding & repairing services on the side
Is the TTC Gold 50M and the 80M color the same? I've been using the 80M one and it feels light to me already
@@innoillust they are more of less the same feeling in terms of keyfeel. If it feels light to you perhaps your mouse upper shell shape makes it feel easier to click
Thanks for the detailed post! I can't find anything about 50m TTC Gold Dustproof switches. I only see 30/60/80M switches online. Also from the video he never shows the side with the model text, but we can sort of see it from the other side, and it SEEMS like it's saying 30M from the back to me. Is there a different model that I can't locate online??
I was afraid of modifying mine and then I got the courage to do it. Holy! what a difference!
this is super crazy
i got the super light recently and its too light that i never thought it could ever go lighter
epic, It is nice to see more and more ppl doing 3d printing base to weight reduce. I mod my whole gpx with 3d painting part, and manage to bring the weight down to 39g.
hey mate. seeing you for long time and noticing your apex interest getting more day by day and i love that.
is it possible for you to make a video completely dedicated about your game routine especially for Apex and kovak.
like you sitting posture, practice routine, mouse grip, what sens you prefer,what kinda mouse pad, how you keep yourself active like how much break you take and anything you have in mind please. i would love to dig in to that and i am sure theer are many viewers who wants to see that as well.
keep growing mate..ggs :)
I rock the tcc golds. Stock weight. Been using a v2 mini pulsar. Waiting on the x2’s to release.
Great video, you're a skilled guy.
Solid mod video, might be a fun project to attempt and you made the steps easy to follow
I'd love to see the next version of the Superlight being exactly the same, but with an 8K sensor and maybe 10-15 grams lighter. And hopefully a more tactile scroll wheel.
Honestly that combo would be godly but that is a LOOONG time down the line for wireless.
And usb c
I like the scrole wheel how it is but i agree with the idea of the weight reduction
Would be nice but 10 - 15 grams lighter is a lor
would also be nice if theres a small variant. Imo the gpx has such a bulky shape i just cant find any reference points for my hands to sit comfortably at
Amazing video Ali, you outdid yourself with this one.
Wanted to ask if the Pulse fire Haste from Hyperx has popped in your radar, it's a 60 gr mouse similar in shape to the model O and has the gold switches you used in this video as well as PTFE skates normally found in after market. Seems like a steal and wouldine go hear your thoughts on it.
Just woke up and already watching an optimum tech video? It’s going to be a good good day
love this im just about to mod my gpx. prefect timing
Hey optimum I really like everything that you do on the channel. Quick question, what are the dimensions of your desk, I'm looking at having a similar sized one
You are the future of quality content on the internet, a section of it. In 10 years time you will be so fucking big, you'll be everywhere
Cool video I am designing a custom ultralight mouse from the ground up and I am learning as much as I can about shape build quality weight reduction ect this video gave me some ideas thanks!
Optimum tech is the new tech tips channel
The depth you dive to is pretty refreshing actually, this the content I was missing!
Love the tap strafe example 👏💐
Damn this guys is everything he’s good at games and hella smart with tech and everything related you deserve for me to subscribe 👍🏻
This is really cool sir!
That thumbnail is beautiful!
you are gradually becoming my favourite youtuber
im using this about two months now, best mouse ever created
Yo you like read my mind i was just looking for a g pro x superlight modding video and you made one!
Printing with PETG will be just as easy as PLA with a notable weight reduction! Cool mods.
Just finished a pc build and found this gem!!!
Awesome video Ali ! ❤️🤩
Dope video, makes me want to get stuck into mine.
that Zaunkoenig really hooked him on light weight :D
Glad to know where actually the strange scrolling wheel feeling coming from now, will replace that in the future.
This channel just keeps getting better!!
Love your videos!
Also remember to suck the air out of the mouse and close it before it fills with air again, it reduces the weight significantly.
this guy
NEEDS to make his own brand or something your so smart !!!!!!
This was in my watch later playlist and when I woke up, I looked at my watch later playlist and saw that I watched this while I was sleeping 😭😂
Just bought this mouse and so I came across this vid randomly.. really cool though, nice one! :)
4:32
This is the part where I suggest you to have some proper soldering tools ; get yourself a soldering iron which can adjust the temperture or else the pcb would be burned. Also it'll be easier to just add more solder(some with a lower melting temp to easy melting those factory solder sticking on switches+encoders.
Just wondering how hot my soldering iron should be for this kind of thing
@@gamiiee typically u dont want it too hot, i find 300-350C is enough for both soldering and desoldering. 350C is a bit too hot usually for my case, as i can see the solder tin is browning but its still usable (and relatively safe for pcb) if you want the extra heat for whatever reason.
@@Crustee0 I see I usually used 300 for lead solder 350 for lead free
Or just buy the PCB pre built with the switches you want. Takes away the time and extra money you have to spend purchasing the equipment.
@@gamiiee oh yeah, i forgot theres lead-free thats a bit harder to melt. Anyway, while some pcb like these are more sensitive to heat its not really an issue if you dont burn the solder tin/lead and dont stick the iron on it for too long
The white wire is used to send battery status data for safe charging and discharging of battery so id recommend to desolder the small pcb attatched to the orignal battery and sorder it to the smaller one and it helps to protect the battery and user too😁
really good video. i have to g pro x superlight with a lighter battery as well :).
I have changed 3 Times my switches.
First Time with your méthod with à solder Pump and it was a désaster.
I Can give you another méthod easier for me which doesnt need extra tools :
Add a litle more tin on the 3 pins , then you Can easy heat UP the tin of 3 pins at the same Time and when all 3 are liquid, just push the Switch out of the pcb 😁
I’d love to see more mouse modding, as that’s something that I’ve gotten into recently. I have a 55g aerox 3 wireless, a 65g viper mini wireless (delux m800 pro pcb in the viper mini shell, and soon enough I’ll weight mod my G303SE
I was expecting you to go with Kailh GM switches like your previous mods, so I was pleasantly surprised when you busted out the TTC Golds! Might give those a shot next.
Awesome biceps man. Great size. Look thick. Solid. Tight. Keep us all posted on your continued progress with any new progress pics or vid clips. Show us what you got man. Wanna see how freakin' huge, solid, thick and tight you can get. Thanks for the motivation.
My technique for removing mouse switches is using a very large conical solder tip to touch all the joints at the same time. Doing that I can just melt all the solder joints at once and pull the switch out in seconds.
Great video! Reckon you could do a walk-through on your forearm vascularity mod?
I can't be the only one looking at Ali's traps in the mirror... I need to know this godly workout routine
this guy makes the heaviest mice feel like the lightest ones
just wanna say you are absolutely pumped bro, gym video when? 👀
If you have some 205g0 from switch lubing, try putting that on the contact points where the scroll wheel touches the internals of the mouse shell. Sounds like you're a fan of quiet and smooth scroll wheels, and lube is a great mod for this outcome.
Def although I love loud and tactility of TTC gold encoder, I cannot stand the crackling noise when you scroll up and down very fast.
After I lubed inside the rotary, the mouse wheel, the stand-off of the mouse wheel, finally no more crackling noise and a little bit quiet noise which I can deal with but smoother scrolling which I like. I can still feel the steps but in much more smoother. Recommended to lube the scroll wheel so you don't hear "broken" scrolling anymore
Nice job sir.
Dude, your thumbnails give me so much joyu to see! Obviously the video quality is great too, I just really appreciate great thumbnails!
This reminds me of BeardedBob's absolutely ridiculous 36g Superlight mod (along with his more reasonable weight reduction mods of this mouse lol).
in your last mod video u use the kailh gm 2.0. do u prefer the gold one now? i had ordered some of the kailh already.
Amazing video!
Excited to see the DeathAdder v3 compared to the super light!
Funny how the Pulsar X2 got into the hands of reviewers at the exact same time as you released this video :^)
The X2 is an absolute beast which could EASILY replace the GPX for MANY people.
getting into keyboard modding so picked up a hakko-301. Learning about how to tip tin. Check it out if anyone has issues with their soldering
Nice chair ali, may I ask what chair you use? great mod as always!
Great video! I would only ask for maybe kovaak's playlist that you use or some scenarios.
Mouse modding series :0
Seeing you mod the M2K with an Enncoo Aircord would be sick
maybe I don't check in enough but I never seen you solder before. Would love to see more mods like this.
well this video has been a ride, I felt my pro wireless shaking on my desk mat :R
Awesome modification, even better would be using ABS for the base, because ABS is lighter, stronger and more heat resistant (not really applicable) than PLA
New upcoming mouse pulsar x2 is gona be g pro killer finally, it seems so good from specs to build quality, and shape is amazing, do a review on it when it comes out
Most likely all good, but to mention battery concern. You are cutting battery capacity in half, but charging current stays as for prev one. And since you are getting rid if thermistor (3rd wire) which monitors overheat, better to not charge it unattended. Maybe it’s possible to adjust charging current by swapping some resistor for charge chip, not sure if possible. And maybe carefully transfer old 3 wire battery protection circuit to new battery (small circuit under orange kapton tape). Otherwise really cool mod, thanks!
Really cool thumbnail!
some naaaaasty clips bro
Bro all the game play you have on your videos are elite , you a undercover pro player ?
Might use this at some point to remove the power play part, without doint the other changes.
I prefer the hardstop mousehweel and as long as the main switches do work I also don't see a point changing them (I really like the default Logitech ones).
However taking off a bit on the powerplay are might help even out the added weight I plan on getting with some grip pads.
Have you actually tried modding the default baseplate?
To me it kinda seems like removing the power play part would result in something really similar to your 3D printed version, however by using the original modded baseplate, you'd keep the "clean" look
Optimum, if you have to choose one for purely gaming, do you prefer modded superlight or m2k
i love this vid i been thinking of founding a way to see if is posible to change the micro usb port to a type c
I would really be interested in seeing a video on light XL mice. The G Pro feels a bit small in the hand to me and it’s one of the bigger options out there. Seems like you have somewhat larger hands as well so I’d love to hear your take!
checkout pulsefire haste, its on the larger side
amazing thumbnail!!
I love the magenta one.
You could try lubing the scroll wheel although some people would like more defined steps
Hey, kinda interested on your workout routine. Love your forearms
great job
I got my g403 hero to 75g with some "creative" use of dremel. I like it very much
Great Video as always!
Would love to see a fusion 360 generative design version of this mouse, would look sick and possibly be a bit lighter too.
And you should invest in a build plate for your printer with smooth PEI sheet, sticks great to pla and the finish looks awesome without sanding :)