Like to find an aam 11.5" 14 bolt, put 6 lug hubs on it and have the dual piston brake caliper with the 13" disc to fit my 17" wheels with stock park brake. Drop a 373 diff in and then hoping someone makes a retrofit kit for the 8l90 and 10L90 to work on GMT800 platform
Great videos. When you go from drum to rotors, does it change the width of the axle from wheel mounting surface to wheel mounting surface? Please say yes, haha!
I yanked a Dana Super 70 out of a 2003 3500 van & regeared from 3.73 to 4.10 to match my Dana 60 front. I wish I’d have sourced a 4.10 14 bolt from a 2004 or newer 3500 truck to save some time & money...
You have a solid rear end with the super 70 for sure, but u agree you'd have been money ahead to find a 14 bolt. Thank you for watching and commenting! God bless!
Great information! Thanks! You mentioned Cadillac Calipers for E-Brake. Any particular year? I've got a 14 bolt that eventually I will be building. The disc brake conversion is definitely on the to-do list for it. Since my rig will be a rail/street rig. I would like to have the option of e-brake. Again, great informative video!
Thank you, I am so glad you like the video! I do not have a specific year of Caddi caliper off of the top of my head. Whichever ones used the mechanical disc E brake - I believe mid 80's. Have a blast with that rig! God bless!
76-77 Eldorado rear calipers w/parking brake per ruffstuffspecialties.com. You can buy them new from ruff stuff complete with pads and no core charge for $280 per pair. Shipping will run $20 or so. If you buy the calipers from an auto parts store make sure they match the pictures on the ruff stuff site. There are several different calipers and only one matches. Or find the caddy at a salvage yard and rebuild the calipers.
just picked a 14 bolt up Saturday and was wondering if i would have to change master cylinder was talking to other people about it and they said tht u would have to let me know pls
I've heard of some who swapped master cylinders, some who added a proportioning valve, and some who have done nothing. My truck isn't finished so I'm not sure yet how I will proceed. My preference would be adding a proportioning valve but we'll have to wait. Thank you for watching! God bless!
Love all your videos....I have a question. Are your calipers the JB6/JD6 2-15/16 inch piston.....or the JB7/JD7 3-5/32 inch piston.....about to purchase these items in the next few days. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Great question and to be honest I’m not sure. I simply ordered complete front brake calipers for a mid 70’s Chevy 3/4 ton truck. Hope that helps, God bless!
I am not going to use a proportioning valve to start. If I decide to use one, I'll post a vid. I've heard several people say it is not necessary, but I'll find out for sure when the truck is done!
Hey man awesome videos btw.. but do you know if all the 14 bolt ff center sections (pumpkins) insides are the same? I've got a 01 14 bolt with 4:10 and I'm wanting to swap them in my rear differential out of my 93 with 3:73. Cause I went with a solid axle swap and got a 4:10 front diff.. if you can help That would be awesome and also will a Detroit locker for a 14 bolt ff work in any of them? I had it in my 82 gmc 14 bolt and was fine just wanting to make sure my 93 wou be the same. Thanks man
Thanks! I won't even pretend to be a compatibility expert. I think you might run into some issues in swapping those carriers. To be certain I know Pirate 4X4 is an awesome resource for those kinds of questions. Look em up on the web, that's what I'd do!
do you have anymore info on the " hill lock" ebrake substitute your doing? i want to get rid of my ebrake setup and hadnt ever heard of a hill locking system.
Nope, and the truck is still only about 1/3 done, so I haven't driven it to see how it brakes. I haven't heard of anyone changing a master cylinder for this swap, and only a few that have swapped in an adjustable proportioning valve. I will see how mine acts and decide from there.
i have a 92 chevy k1500 with a 14 bolt rear and 6 lug i want to do a disc brake rear conversion on but can't find a kit i also need to have a e brake since it is going to be a stick shift and its going to have a cummins, and nv4500 4x4 etc so i need a good e brake.
+Joe Stenny I believe your best bet for an E brake will be a disk setup on your transfer case output. I intend to do mine that way when time and money allow. As far as your rear disks, I'd suggest scouring Ebay and if you don't find a direct fit, contact the sellers to see if they can help. Cut Throat 4x4 is one of them I would trust to know how to fit your application. if nothing else, the caliper brackets are a pretty simple fabrication for a well equipped shop to build. Thanks for watching BTW!!
+GebBuilt 76 through 78 eldarado calipers bolt up to these setups and have the ebrake option if you guys are interested in going that way. thats the way ive chosen on my 77 crew cab
Hi, I never did finish this one. I needed to prioritize my family so it had to go! Sorry I don’t have a better answer about the master and valve for you. God bless!
I"d say going without the service brake was a good decision. I tried a set and it was an absolute crap shoot if they will hold. On a hill, or have a trailer... zero chance. I ended up selling the whole conversion. Braking is not any better than a properly set up drum.
I got everything installed, axles under the truck. just bleeding brakes. how long did it take you. tryed 2 person "old school" bleeding, then vacuum, now im trying gravity. nothing seems to be getting any fluid out. Might be a big inpatient, but i cant wait to drive with 4.10s compared to the 2.73s currently turning my 35s. by the way thanks for the help so far
+Jacob Schneider Also, let me know once you get on the road if the front to rear proportioning seems ok. Mine's not on the road yet and I'm curious if I'll need to install adjustable proportioning or not. I've heard people that have eliminated the proportioning valve, ones who have replaced with adjustable proportioning, and others who say it is fine as is.
+GebBuilt just drove it. had to crack line from master cylinder to proportion valve (top of vave) and press brakes. freed up valve. drove fine, after pumping brakes to get brake light to go away, brakes lost a bit of stiffness, but still good. on road they stopped me WAY faster. seemed to work great
Good question, I have heard different opinions from different truck owners- I have not changed mine and wasn't going to until I checked out how it behaves. Thank you for watching and God bless!!
I would have to go back and research applications - my advise would be to Google "C30 dually rear disks" and see what comes up. Great question, God bless!
I'd guess your 6 lug is a semi floater, but to be sure- on a semi floater your lug studs will stick out farther than the end of the axle. A full floater will have outboard bearings and the end of the axle will protrude out past your lug studs. Sorry that's my best explanation at the moment without pics.
Joe Stenny Well glad you asked... If there is seal of approval stamped on the BOM on the axle tube by Chuck Norris it's full float if there is a 6 color rainbow on the axle flange it's the gm 9.5 .
+V1NCH1INZ0 Haha yeah those are the 4 inchers that were on the truck when I got it. I'm looking for a set of 6" springs to match the front. Thank you for watching and God bless!!
Sorry, I mean when you re assembled your axle you had to put the spindle nuts back to keep the hubs on. How far or how tight did you set the 2 spindle nuts?
+Jacob Schneider This is how I've always successfully done it: Slide the thrust washer on then run the first nut against it while spinning the hub by hand. tighten the nut until a good bit of resistance is felt while spinning the hub. Then back that nut off slightly and you should feel the spinning resistance go away as you back it up. the nut will end up being barely tighter than finger tight. Install the locking ring and tighten the 2nd nut against it- this one should be tight since it jams the first nut. watch the first nut carefully so it doesn't move as you tighten the jam nut- I've seen it happen occasionally. then bend a tab into one of the notches of the 2nd nut. Done, God bless!
GebBuilt. I jus purchased a newer style 14 bff and I was wondering if you knew wether or not the part numbers you used would still be compatible with mine ? (rotors,calipers,and studs) Thanks pal !!!
Like to find an aam 11.5" 14 bolt, put 6 lug hubs on it and have the dual piston brake caliper with the 13" disc to fit my 17" wheels with stock park brake.
Drop a 373 diff in and then hoping someone makes a retrofit kit for the 8l90 and 10L90 to work on GMT800 platform
Brotha man - how much / how to adjust / tighten the rear bearings??
You seem well versed on the subject.
Why arent people buying old semis and swapping the axles off of them?
that looks good... I'm about to do this!!
Awesome! Have fun with it and thank you for watching and commenting! God bless!
Was this for stud mounted drums?
Great videos. When you go from drum to rotors, does it change the width of the axle from wheel mounting surface to wheel mounting surface? Please say yes, haha!
Great question and thank you for watching! My answer is no it won’t change the width. Hopefully you can make it work, God bless!
What year cadillac El Dorado caliber to use please
I yanked a Dana Super 70 out of a 2003 3500 van & regeared from 3.73 to 4.10 to match my Dana 60 front. I wish I’d have sourced a 4.10 14 bolt from a 2004 or newer 3500 truck to save some time & money...
You have a solid rear end with the super 70 for sure, but u agree you'd have been money ahead to find a 14 bolt. Thank you for watching and commenting! God bless!
Great information! Thanks! You mentioned Cadillac Calipers for E-Brake. Any particular year? I've got a 14 bolt that eventually I will be building. The disc brake conversion is definitely on the to-do list for it. Since my rig will be a rail/street rig. I would like to have the option of e-brake. Again, great informative video!
Thank you, I am so glad you like the video! I do not have a specific year of Caddi caliper off of the top of my head. Whichever ones used the mechanical disc E brake - I believe mid 80's. Have a blast with that rig! God bless!
76-77 Eldorado rear calipers w/parking brake per ruffstuffspecialties.com. You can buy them new from ruff stuff complete with pads and no core charge for $280 per pair. Shipping will run $20 or so. If you buy the calipers from an auto parts store make sure they match the pictures on the ruff stuff site. There are several different calipers and only one matches. Or find the caddy at a salvage yard and rebuild the calipers.
your video was very informative thank you so much
Awesome, glad you likeI thank you for watching and commenting! God Bless!
About a 1/4" on each side cuz the rotors are thicker than the drums
just picked a 14 bolt up Saturday and was wondering if i would have to change master cylinder was talking to other people about it and they said tht u would have to let me know pls
I've heard of some who swapped master cylinders, some who added a proportioning valve, and some who have done nothing. My truck isn't finished so I'm not sure yet how I will proceed. My preference would be adding a proportioning valve but we'll have to wait. Thank you for watching! God bless!
Love all your videos....I have a question. Are your calipers the JB6/JD6 2-15/16 inch piston.....or the JB7/JD7 3-5/32 inch piston.....about to purchase these items in the next few days. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Great question and to be honest I’m not sure. I simply ordered complete front brake calipers for a mid 70’s Chevy 3/4 ton truck. Hope that helps, God bless!
GebBuilt thanks for the reply.....im going to go with the jb6 non nd calipers
I know this is a 4 year old comment but what did u end up going with?
Hey bud you mind posting a video on proportioning valve if you used one?
I am not going to use a proportioning valve to start. If I decide to use one, I'll post a vid. I've heard several people say it is not necessary, but I'll find out for sure when the truck is done!
Hey man awesome videos btw.. but do you know if all the 14 bolt ff center sections (pumpkins) insides are the same? I've got a 01 14 bolt with 4:10 and I'm wanting to swap them in my rear differential out of my 93 with 3:73. Cause I went with a solid axle swap and got a 4:10 front diff.. if you can help That would be awesome and also will a Detroit locker for a 14 bolt ff work in any of them? I had it in my 82 gmc 14 bolt and was fine just wanting to make sure my 93 wou be the same. Thanks man
Thanks! I won't even pretend to be a compatibility expert. I think you might run into some issues in swapping those carriers. To be certain I know Pirate 4X4 is an awesome resource for those kinds of questions. Look em up on the web, that's what I'd do!
I put a chevy 1975 14 bolt carrier in a 2001 GMC 2500 hd housing after cracking the carrier in it. The older carriers are much thicker and stronger .
do you have anymore info on the " hill lock" ebrake substitute your doing? i want to get rid of my ebrake setup and hadnt ever heard of a hill locking system.
I'd have to look it up again for info. Thank you, God bless!
I have a 14 bolt I'd like to do this to before I put it in my '61 Willys PU. Did you change the proportioning valve or master cylinder?
Nope, and the truck is still only about 1/3 done, so I haven't driven it to see how it brakes. I haven't heard of anyone changing a master cylinder for this swap, and only a few that have swapped in an adjustable proportioning valve. I will see how mine acts and decide from there.
GebBuilt...Did you reuse the wheel studs from the drum or go with another length. I have read peaople are using a Dorman 610-194 or 610-189?
I ended up using Dorman 610.194 which are 3 1/4"long. Thanks for watching and commenting! God Bless!
Thank you
i have a 92 chevy k1500 with a 14 bolt rear and 6 lug i want to do a disc brake rear conversion on but can't find a kit i also need to have a e brake since it is going to be a stick shift and its going to have a cummins, and nv4500 4x4 etc so i need a good e brake.
+Joe Stenny I believe your best bet for an E brake will be a disk setup on your transfer case output. I intend to do mine that way when time and money allow. As far as your rear disks, I'd suggest scouring Ebay and if you don't find a direct fit, contact the sellers to see if they can help. Cut Throat 4x4 is one of them I would trust to know how to fit your application. if nothing else, the caliper brackets are a pretty simple fabrication for a well equipped shop to build. Thanks for watching BTW!!
+GebBuilt 76 through 78 eldarado calipers bolt up to these setups and have the ebrake option if you guys are interested in going that way. thats the way ive chosen on my 77 crew cab
Hey brother, did you ever finish your truck? if so what did you end up doing about the master cylinder and valve?
Hi, I never did finish this one. I needed to prioritize my family so it had to go! Sorry I don’t have a better answer about the master and valve for you. God bless!
What ate your thoughts on replacing front drum brakes on a 70 chevy with a 79 rotor assembly. I'd just have to swap spindles right?
Thank you for your question! Are we talking two wheel drive or four wheel drive?
GebBuilt It's a 70 c20 2wd
I"d say going without the service brake was a good decision. I tried a set and it was an absolute crap shoot if they will hold. On a hill, or have a trailer... zero chance. I ended up selling the whole conversion. Braking is not any better than a properly set up drum.
Hi why did you not buy a kitt
I got everything installed, axles under the truck. just bleeding brakes. how long did it take you. tryed 2 person "old school" bleeding, then vacuum, now im trying gravity. nothing seems to be getting any fluid out. Might be a big inpatient, but i cant wait to drive with 4.10s compared to the 2.73s currently turning my 35s. by the way thanks for the help so far
It will definitely take a while. I've been partial to a vacuum bleeder but still requires all the patience I can muster.
I was at my dads friends yesterday. He's a mechanic. Said that it's the proportioning valve. Cut off flow to rear.
+Jacob Schneider yes I'd bleed to it first then move forward.
+Jacob Schneider Also, let me know once you get on the road if the front to rear proportioning seems ok. Mine's not on the road yet and I'm curious if I'll need to install adjustable proportioning or not. I've heard people that have eliminated the proportioning valve, ones who have replaced with adjustable proportioning, and others who say it is fine as is.
+GebBuilt just drove it. had to crack line from master cylinder to proportion valve (top of vave) and press brakes. freed up valve. drove fine, after pumping brakes to get brake light to go away, brakes lost a bit of stiffness, but still good. on road they stopped me WAY faster. seemed to work great
Did you have to change your proportioning valve?
Good question, I have heard different opinions from different truck owners- I have not changed mine and wasn't going to until I checked out how it behaves. Thank you for watching and God bless!!
Also, did you put a locker in it?
I spooled it.
I've got an '83 C30 dually and would love to do the same. Will this work?
I would have to go back and research applications - my advise would be to Google "C30 dually rear disks" and see what comes up. Great question, God bless!
Justin Smith i have the exact same truck did u get those brakes swapped? If so what did u use and do??
Also my axle is a dually but would adding the disc brake kit would it make it a srw
+James Winchel I would have to research to make sure you get the right parts for the dually axle-
+GebBuilt probably going to get srw hubs
what kind of front end you got
Dana 44 big hub. Haven't decided on what locker I want yet
how do i tell if i have a full floater or regular 14 bolt 6 lug rearend?
I'd guess your 6 lug is a semi floater, but to be sure- on a semi floater your lug studs will stick out farther than the end of the axle. A full floater will have outboard bearings and the end of the axle will protrude out past your lug studs. Sorry that's my best explanation at the moment without pics.
Joe Stenny Well glad you asked... If there is seal of approval stamped on the BOM on the axle tube by Chuck Norris it's full float if there is a 6 color rainbow on the axle flange it's the gm 9.5 .
Its a semi floater
holy blocks
+V1NCH1INZ0 Haha yeah those are the 4 inchers that were on the truck when I got it. I'm looking for a set of 6" springs to match the front. Thank you for watching and God bless!!
Any plans of shaving that 14?
looks nice, I found a pinion emergency brake online less that 300$ i can find the link if you are interested. I think it was bolt on too.
solaceofwinter Sweet, I'll probably build my own when the time comes, but I would like to see that set up.
Sorry buddy forgot all about getting you the link. Here ya go! www.tsmmfg.com/np205.html
That's a sweet ebrake setup!
seemed affordable too. :D
also how did you set the spindle nuts and washers?
+Jacob Schneider, sorry I'm not sure I understand the question.
Sorry, I mean when you re assembled your axle you had to put the spindle nuts back to keep the hubs on. How far or how tight did you set the 2 spindle nuts?
+Jacob Schneider This is how I've always successfully done it: Slide the thrust washer on then run the first nut against it while spinning the hub by hand. tighten the nut until a good bit of resistance is felt while spinning the hub. Then back that nut off slightly and you should feel the spinning resistance go away as you back it up. the nut will end up being barely tighter than finger tight. Install the locking ring and tighten the 2nd nut against it- this one should be tight since it jams the first nut. watch the first nut carefully so it doesn't move as you tighten the jam nut- I've seen it happen occasionally. then bend a tab into one of the notches of the 2nd nut. Done, God bless!
what would you need pics of? i can try to take pics or a video
Just a shot of the wheel hub would suffice.
[URL=s249.photobucket.com/user/joestenny/media/20151124_172647.jpg.html][IMG]i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg237/joestenny/20151124_172647.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
i can't figure out how to send a pic to show you
Is that a newer style 14 bolt ?
Hi Chris, it is a late 70's 14 bolt. Thank you for watching and commenting, God bless!
GebBuilt. I jus purchased a newer style 14 bff and I was wondering if you knew wether or not the part numbers you used would still be compatible with mine ? (rotors,calipers,and studs) Thanks pal !!!
I’ve never dealt with a newer 14 bolt so I’m afraid I can’t answer that.
What are the part numbers on the rotors and calipers please
+James Winchel I got the calipers and rotors from Autozone. I just said I needed them for the front of a 1979 Chevy 3/4 ton pickup.
+GebBuilt thanks
Yep!
+GebBuilt would I use 4x4 or 2wd rotors and calipers
4x4
You were supposed to put silicone on those axle bolts!
Don't you need a mechanical e-brake to be street legal?
I live in central Iowa. I'm good.
If the bolt or the ratchet snaps it was too tight.
Brian Haw yes
you have a semi float...not full float
What depicts it from a full float or semi float lookin to get one to swap in my wj
+Spencer Frisella easiest way is to see the outboard spindle housing.
+GebBuilt just watched a vid of how to tell my other question is witch is better 10.5 or 11.5 ring gear ?
I'm sure most would say the bigger one is better, but they both use the same diameter axle shafts, so in my opinion it doesn't matter.
+GebBuilt ok thanks would the ring gear be strong if it's bigger more beef on it