14 Bolt Disc Brake Conversion Final Assembly
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- čas přidán 18. 08. 2018
- Final assembly of the disk brake conversion kit from lugnut4x4.com for a 14 bolt axle.
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Great content. Very informative. Now to binge watch your channel lol.
Thanks for watching
Great content Chris! Thanks for putting this out there. It’s been about 14 years since my last conversion and this was a great refresher!
Glad you liked it and thanks for watching!
awesome videos...very helpful...just inherted my grandpas 79 c20...thinking about upgrading rear brakes...
Thanks, glad you liked the videos. Have fun with the C20!
good informative video....you'll find that a light hit with a chisel across the width of those sleeves expands them just enough to pull them off with hand pressure.
Thanks for watching
You should use a shoestring on your sand paper when you polish the end of the housing. Works like a champ and sands evenly all around.
Never heard of using a shoestring, I'll have to give that a try
Thats beautiful Sir. I cant wait to do this upgrade as well. I admit. Im fearin the brake line part.
Great 3 videos. Picked up a 14 bolt out of a CUCV. Going to put it in my CJ7
Glad you liked the videos, good luck on your axle swap
How about Large GM OEM brakes aka the 13 inch rotor.
Id like to have 6 lug spindle hub to fit the 17" oem gm wheels.
Sweet videos. :)
Thanks for watching
I am wondering about doing this on my chevy tahoe / 1500 4x4. Has a 10 bolt in it.
You should do it. The increase in brake performance is worth it. I don't think lugnut4x4 has a kit for the 10 bolt, but there are other companies that do.
Thanks for the video, Im hoping to do a Disc Brake conversion on a 90' D350 Dually hear shortly.
Glad you liked the video and thanks for watching
You do the conversion yet?
i made a nut out of part of a diff housing,chopped out to make 4 tongues.had it for yrs.couldnt buy them here in aus till we got the stupid net.
hell yeah, built not bought!
Somehow I have the earlier style 14 bolt on my 99 K3500 dually, same hub/drum setup as my 86 K10 SRW, upgraded to one ton running gear. My question is why is there no inner seal on the hubs. I think the answer is the newer style rear may be lubricated by the diff gear oil, but confirmation would be appreciated. Thanks.
If I get the e-brake calipers on lugnut4x4, can I use my stock e-brake cable or do I need to by a different model? Love the videos by the way, it gives me more confidence to do this upgrade to my own truck.
You should be able to reuse your stock cable. Glad you find the videos helpful. Thanks for watching
Can the 4 washers you installed on the caliper mounting bracket be replaced by two washers of correct thickness on the caliper bolts?? Seems like a possible interchange... just an idea.
I'm currently installing this on my truck. just finished replacing the seals and bears (my outer bearing the one that went in first has a retaining lock ring holding the concave sleeve in place).
Nice video quality and instruction. Thanks for the great video!
#TexasChevy #1980K30 #12inchLift #14BoltRear #383Stroker #SM465 #NP205
I don't think so. If you tried to place the washers on the caliper bolts it would move the caliper the wrong way. Thanks for watching!
Your video was very helpful do you have anymore videos coming
Glad you found the video helpful. Yes I have plans for more videos, I just need to start editing!! Thanks for watching
Subscribed why? because of I'm from TN myself and going to do the same job
Couple questions, what truck is that and could you give me some feedback on performance. The pedal on my 96 dodge "fades" did you have that before this conversion and did this seem to solve it?
The truck is 88 Chevy K30 Crewcab LWB. I can not give you any feedback on performance. The truck is a work in progress. I bought it with no motor and it currently only has a bare cab and the axles still on the frame. I'm very confident that the upgrade will be worth it though. Brake fade is a common problem with drum bakes. Good luck if you decide to try it and thanks for watching.
so you torque dit 50 foot pound for preload on bearing...but what backing it off quarter turn then hand tighten for free play...
I actually did both. On the passenger side I just torqued to 50 ft/lbs. The driver side I torqued down, then backed it off, then just snugged it up. I'll see if that makes a difference over time
And it works just like that after install? Any work to master cylinder, hydroboost? Proportioning valve ect?
Lugnut4x4 claims his kit is "balanced" and you don't need to worry about your proportioning valve. I have no idea if that is correct. I have a long way to go before I have the brake system fully hooked up and functioning. I do plan on installing an adjustable proportioning valve in my truck when I get to that stage. This truck already has hydroboost since it the 6.2 diesel in it originally. I do plan on making a video covering all this when I finally get to that part of the build.
Thanks for watching!
I have a 2000 Chevy C 3500 Dooley two wheel drive with utility box I'm thinking about doing either this or replacing the whole differential from another truck obviously disc I'm tired of the drums they suck any reference please help me out thank you
Check out ruffstuff specialties. They have some weld on brackets you may be able to use
What grit where you using to smooth it out with
I think that was either 100 or 120 grit.
What kit did you get? I have a 96 GMC K3500. DRW and they say brackets need to be welded where yours are bolt on
The kit I used was for a 14 bolt full float axle with the brake drum behind the hub. I think the newer design (after 90 or 91) for a dually requires welding. Thanks for watching
@@Offroadfarm1 Thank you! Info is very limited on Rear Discs for DRW. I found a company called TSM that apparently makes a bolt on kit for my truck. I’m em currently in contact with them. Hopefully it fits and I can pull the trigger!
I know Hine sight is 20/20 but you could have simply slid that inner bearing on loose then put the hub on over top. It looked at though the spindle was fine and it just went on a tad crooked, iv had many bearings get tight like that all because it wasn't lined up straight enough.
Thanks for the tip and thanks for watching
I would like to know the size of the rear and you have cause I have the same as that set up and I’m doing the disc brake conversion thank you
My rear end is commonly called a "14 bolt." It is a 10.5 inch full float GM axle. Thanks for watching!
I just purchased the similar kit for my 2500 Burban. But mine is the slide on drum style 14 bolt. My question or concern is what did you do or how did you install that steel braided line for get calipers? Did you shorten the steel lines and re-flared them to make them fit nicely and not look terrible?
And also I purchased the e-brake style as well. And wondering if the original drum e-brake cable is going to work on the disc Brake kit. ?? I’m getting ready to do this conversion but I don’t want to run into issues. Due to my truck will be my family vehicle n not an off road you.
I haven't hooked my brakes up yet. But my plan is to shorten the steel lines, flare and hook them up. Your existing e-brake cable should work just fine with kit. Thanks for watching
@@Offroadfarm1 oh ok. I’m sorry I wasn’t sure if you had done it already but I’m thinking of doing the same thing. Cut and flare and make it look factory. Thanks for the quick response and I hope my OEM e-brake will work on this kit.
What caliper and rotors do you use for this? I assume they come in a kit with the caliper bracket, but what if you ever need to replace them.
Yes they did come in the kit I purchased. Lugnut4x4 provides all the part numbers should you ever need to replace anything. Since I opted for the emergency brake calipers mine are from a 1976-78 cadillac eldorado rear. Rotor is a 1986 k20 front.
@@Offroadfarm1 Thank
Can I please get some assistance I have a 1995 c2500 chevy Cheyenne,it has drum breaks I hate how they look and probably harder to work on, what would I need I can’t find any thing or kits for my truck please help ?
Do you know what axle you have on your truck? How many lugs? 6 or 8 ?
Try this link:
Outer axle seals: www.offroaddesign.com/d60-outer-axle-seal.html
It will help you figure out which axle you have and they may have a kit for you.
Thanks for watching!
Just curious, what was the spring perch width on your vehicle? I'm looking at installing one on my Dodge Ram 1500, and the outside to outside of just the leaf springs are like 52". And it looks like the 14-bolts only 43"
I'll check and let you know in the next few days. Thanks for watching!
Outside to outside is 42.5 inches. I believe the 1 tons are narrower than the 3/4
my 3/4 ton is 45 1/4 outside to outside. you may have to have one cut and lengthened, as well as the axle, I dont know.
On your axle bearing nut, 50 ft lbs with no 1/4 turn back? Seems kinda tight, cause when your bearings warm up there is no room for them to expand too. I suggest to double check your torque procedure.
I thought it was tight as well. I've never set up a wheel bearing like that before. I did the other side just like you mentioned. I thought I would see if it made a difference. Thanks for watching
Did you reuse your parking brake line and would it work with a lift if so?
As long as your lift isn't huge you should be able to use it. I haven't used mine yet but I also cut 22 inches out of my frame. Thanks for watching.
Did you have to install a proportioning valve for these?
The kit claims you do not have to install one. I plan on installing one when I finish up the brakes. Thanks for watching
Curious about weight difference between the two
I didn't think to weight the parts before I did the conversion, but I feel it's probably safe to say at least 50lbs lighter
My understanding is a 50 pound then spin the hub, and back it off to 35 then lock it.
You are correct. I couldn't find the proper torque specs when I was making the video. I need to correct that. Thanks for watching
Did you use longer wheel studs than stock?
No, I reused the stock studs. They are fine for steel wheels but not long enough for aluminum. Thanks for watching!
Thanks dear brother. .
But here can I found this kit on line
Because I am from medal east🌹
Lugnut4x4.com does offer international shipping but it is pretty pricey. If you can buy the rotor and caliper where you are at you may be able to find a metal fab shop that could make the bracket you need. Many people make their own brackets they just have to use spacers behind the bracket to get the caliper to line up with the rotor. Good luck in your search and thanks for watching
Would you happen to know part number for the park brake calipers?
I don't have the part numbers but they are 1976-78 Cadillac Eldorado rear calipers. Thanks for watching
@@Offroadfarm1 thanks for the reply
Any idea why does my caliper bolts keep spinning?
Not really. They should get tight. Try pulling a caliper off of the bracket and try the bolt then but without having to line everything up. If it gets tights then you know your bolt is correct you just probably didn't have everything lined up. If it doesn't get tight when the caliper is pulled then either you have the wrong caliper bolts or something is wrong with the caliper. If you have anymore questions try to take some pictures and email them to me. offroadfarmchris@gmail.com I'll try to take a look at them. Thanks for watching and good luck on your project.
Did you have to do anything with the brake booster/master cylinder? Or add a proportioning valve?
My truck is still in pieces so I can't say yet what I had/will have to do. But, you shouldn't have to do anything to the master cylinder/booster. The kit from lugnut4x4 claims to be balanced and that you don't have to worry about the proportioning valve (you should already have one). If your having any problems you can always add an adjustable proportioning valve they are not to expensive. Thanks for watching!
problem #42 i didnt test fit my bearing. like thats never happened to me before....
Haha, I think that has happened to everybody! Thanks for watching!
What kind of watch are you wearing?
apple I watch
Very cool but how much did it cost?
With the upgraded emergency brake calipers and new bearings I think I paid right at $600. If you don't need new bearings or an emergency brake the basic kit starts at $315. Thanks for watching
@@Offroadfarm1 That's cheaper than the kit to build the existing drums and shoes!
was that 50 lbs on the nut tightening the bearing into the race or the 2nd nut that acts like a lock nut?? Its had to imagine 50 ft lbs on a bearing and race...
That is 50 ft/lbs on the spindle nut. I believe most 14 bolts do not have a locking nut. They have locking key and a retaining spring. I do agree, I had a hard time putting that much torque on it. I did the driver side the way I normally set wheel bearings. I tightened it pretty good, spun the wheel, loosened the nut then just snugged the nut back up. I plan to see if there is a difference between the two methods. Thanks for watching and good luck on your project.
@@Offroadfarm1 huh mine has a bearing - washer - nut - locking tab - nut
@@ronbonick4265 Just went and checked the 14 bolt bible and it does show a pic just like you described, but then it only gives torque specs for a hub like mine. I would say set it up like you would any other hub.
@@Offroadfarm1 thanks bro, I dont have a book , thanks for looking it up. Im restoring an old truck I built 30 yrs ago 1 ton chevy on 44"s
@@ronbonick4265 No problem, hope I helped. You can google "14 bolt bible" for more information. The same guy also has "dana 60 front axle bible" you can read both of them online and they have a ton of information.
Pack the bearings?
A full float 14 bolt has oil bath hubs. You don't have to pack these bearings. Some people do but it's not necessary. Thanks for watching!
Did you have to change Proportioning valve disk to disk or leave factory disk to drum
The kit I got from lugnut4x4 claims to be "balanced" and you don't need to change the proportioning valve. But I plan to change mine once I get that far. They are cheap and worth the piece of mind
Offroadfarm let me know when you get yours rolling im having problems with mine not having enough pressure for the rear brakes and parking break not engaging
Will do, it might be a while though
@@jimfred5992 did you get your problem solved?
@@jimfred5992 did you fix your weak break problem.
Did your run 15 inch wheels?
No, I have 16 inch wheels. They fit with no issues but I don't think 15 would fit with some grinding. Thanks for watching!
I like to pack the Bering like the front one's get
Thanks for watching
The issue with packing those bearings is thats an oil bath hub, you can not mix oil and grease. The prelub them simply pour your gear oil over the bearings then assemble.
I only put grease on them because I knew it was going to be a long time before the truck is "running" I also have more plans for the rear axle and will have it back apart at some time in the future. Next time it gets put back together there will only be oil on those bearings! Thanks for watching
@@Offroadfarm1 I was directing that to the good guy, he said he likes to pack his bearings like the front hubs.
If I put disk brakes on my 91 squarebody instead of drum, will the rear be level with the front. (Will disk brake make rear axle wider) ?
The disc brake conversion should NOT change your axle width. Good luck on your project and thanks for watching
So i see you did the swap for rear disc....And i told someone else i was doing it and this is what they said...........What you think...did u have to do all this..?.....Thanks..........> then it's a bad idea...disc brakes have far different fluid pressure and volume needs, that can't be supplied byu the stock booster and master....also the prob valve n the truck isn't tuned for rear discs either...
Lugnut4x4 claims his kits are "balanced" and you don't need to change anything else in the brake system for your new disc brakes to work properly. Unless you go with the larger calipers and then you will need to upgrade your master cylinder, I went with the e brake caliper which is not the big caliper so I'm not planning on upgrading my master cylinder. I am planning on installing a new adjustable proportioning valve to make sure everything works. Thanks for watching.
@@Offroadfarm1 Yes them guys from Lugnut4x4 do claim that too. So as I just ordered today from CP. now I hear all this for a valve. So I emailed CP and asking them. See what they have to say. Might cancel the cp kit if they say I need the valve and get lugnut4x4 set. Idk will see. Thanks Rather not put a valve in if I don’t have too.
The pins that go into the caliper/pads are hitting the rotor... and idea why?
I didn't have any problems with that during my install. Did you buy a kit or piece the kit together yourself? If you bought a kit I would contact the company you bought it from and see if they can help you. Are the pins just barley hitting? If so, have you tried spinning the rotor to a different spot and see if they are still hitting. The rotor could not be centered on the hub. You bracket could be to short, the rotor could be to big. Look at the flange the bracket bolts on and make sure it is not bent or warped. You can take some pics and email them to me if you want. I'll take a look and if I see anything I'll let you know. offroadfarmchris@gmail.com
Offroadfarm I got it figured out. Something was off center/not all the way in... I took it all back apart and re did everything, and it worked out. Looks damn good!
Glad to hear you got it figured out! Thanks for watching
Hello I have gmc suburban 1998 8 bolts i need brake kit ,, can u help me finding it or can u give me part number
Check out lugnut4x4.com/how-to/14-bolt-axle-identification-chart/ it will help you figure out which axle you have and help you order the correct kit that will fit your burb. Good luck and thanks for watching.
how much would this cost for a freightliner classic xl to do all rear drums to disk brakes. parts + labor on average ?
I have no idea. But I'm guessing a lot. Thanks for watching
I have to shim mine also. Lotta money for something that don't fit.
Yeah I was disappointed I had to shim mine.
So the only thing that's missing is the dust cover? Any issues with rocks getting in there?
Yup no dust cover. I can't comment on rock issues, It will be a while before I get the truck running. I still have a LOT to do. Thanks for watching
@@Offroadfarm1 I'm having a problem getting the drum off. I took the hub center part out down to the bearing. Should I try to turn that huge bolt on the back? What size is it? It's near 28 mm but gonna have to buy it lol
Have you disconnected the brake line yet? If you cant get on the line nut at the backing plate there should be a junction block on the axle. Open up that line and see if that will give you some extra room to take the drum off. You can turn that nut, it might help you some, I wouldn't buy a socket for it and I don't remember the size. Try a pipe wrench or crescent wrench on it first. Good luck
@@Offroadfarm1 thanks, I got it. I noticed you had problems with the seal. The website for the disc brake conversion had a seal option. Did you buy their seals in the package? Mine is a 1978 chevy so I dont know if mine has the Timco or not
Yes I bought the seals in the package. There was nothing wrong with those seals. At some point the driver side of my truck had a seal that must have went bad and the sealing surface was damaged. Whoever fixed that used a Stemco seal to repair it. The passenger side seal went on with no problems. Look at your old seals, if you have a Stemco seal it will be stamped in the seal
Did your dad not show you how to pack a wheel bearing??? LOL
You don't have to pack these bearings. The full float 14 bolt has oil bath hubs. Some people do pack them, but it is not necessary. I did pack the bearings when I rebuilt my front Dana 60. Thanks for watching
There is a lot of controversy on whether to pack these are not, I prefer not to pack them as they are oiled by the differential however I don't want to drive one foot on dry bearings waiting for the oil, so I'd do exactly what this gentleman did and put a light coating of lithium grease which dissipates and dissolves into the oil rather quickly but stays long enough to keep it lubricated until the oil starts spinning in it. And I don't want to bust his chops but I do always inspect and compared the seals to make sure they have the proper internal diameter as a general rule of thumb, because I'm two or three occasions over the last 35 years I have ran into that issue as well. Overall a very proper and informative video in my professional opinion
@@josephclark8386 My bad... Great video.
Why did you re use your studs you got all new bearings and all that but why not new studs
I probably should have but the rear studs are in pretty good condition so i reused them.
@@Offroadfarm1 Depending on wheels being used. The stock studs may not be long enough. Dually studs are longer and work for about every wheel.
@@bradywilliams2666 Very true, if your running aluminum rims you will probably need longer studs. Right now I'm just running the old steel rims that came with truck and the studs are plenty long enough for them.
You wouldn't happen to have the part number??
Which part are you asking about?
Are the 14 bolt axles pretty much the same through the years? I looked on www.lugnut4x4.com's site and the prices look good, just curious if this kit would work on my '96 K3500.
There are a few differences. If you have 8 lugs (i'm guessing you do on a 3500) then you have a full float. Since your truck is a 96 I'm guessing the brake drum slides off without pulling the hub. If this is the case then you have the "newer 14 bolt" Last thing you need to know is single rear wheel, dual rear wheels, or cab and chassis. If you have any questions I would contact lugnut4x4 and I'm sure they could answer any questions you have. You can also check out the "14 bolt bible" just google it. Tons of great information that is really helpful if your going to be working a 14 bolt. Thanks for watching and good luck on your conversion
Cost of kit please
Check out this link: lugnut4x4.com/
The cost varies depending on the options you choose.
Thanks for watching!
@@Offroadfarm1 thks for your reply putting it in my 1953 ford bread van engine 8.1 chev 05 4l80 undecided for front suspension c20 or crownVictoria police interceptor front suspension
sounds like a cool project!
Mt Eagle area
not far from me, I'm in the Sequatchie valley
@@Offroadfarm1 KOOL ever get to grundy - swing by ronboblkzr@gmail.com
Air hammer is so much better on those studs.
Sometimes it just feels good to grab a BFH and beat on something! Thanks for watching
Offroadfarm do you know of a part number for the retaining ring that holds the outer bearing and race in the hu
I bought the same kit from lugnut a few weeks ago. Putting 3/4ton axles under my half ton suburban. Decided to replace the bearings before I put it back together. The rings on both sides were broke on three and four places. Had a hell of a time getting them. None of the auto part store have a clue. Useless computer punchers. I don't think a one if them from any of the stores even knew what a full floater was. I ordered some from east coast gears today. Hopefully they are what Im looking for. Their pictures looked nothing like what came out of mine.
Did you order part number AXCLIP-GM14T-WB1 from east coast gear? That looks exactly like the snap rings I took out of mine.
Offroadfarm that's what I ordered. The ends of the broken ones stand up about a half inch to get pliers on them. Just a different style I guess. Thanks.
check out the 14bolt bible he has a picture of the snap ring just like you describe. I bet they are interchangeable. Let me know if that works for you and good luck on the axle swap and disc conversion
DONT GREASE THE BEARINGS IF THE DIFF IS LSD...NOTE...
That's a great point! I didn't think to mention that, thanks.
Do pre-lube them all the same though, just make sure they're well drenched in gear oil.