I watched your video a while back and installed the right side seal all the way in as you suggested. Took the Grizzly for a ride and still was leaking. Your info on pushing the seal all the way in is wrong. I installed a new seal and pushed it where it was flush with the housing. No more leak. You probably should take down this video because you are leading people down the wrong road on the installation.
Actually is goes flush. The dust seal part of the seal needs to make contact with the axles dust shield and the axle has a step down. The oil sealing ridge is too close to the line the way that you have it. You shouldn't give advice unless you know for sure it is correct. Sincerely, a Yamaha tech.
Agreed - You can buy a brand new differential on Ebay for $180, and if you look at the pics, the seal is clearly flush, only the dust lip that mates with shield protrudes.
Followed your video installing a new seal after putting in new CV axles. After doing more research, I must say you are WRONG about pushing the right seal all the way in. It's supposed to be flush with differential housing, only lip of seal sticks out to mate with CV axle shield.. Do an Ebay search for a brand new differential, and it is clearly flush in photos. Thankfully, before riding at all, I spent 20 minutes working the seal out so it is flush again. I do not know where you got your info, but please don't post videos of something you aren't sure of.
start the axle in the rear with the axle straight tap the wheel end with a plastic deadblow hammer and it should go in. plus make sure the end that goes in the rear is clean and the circlip spins around the grove and then put a light coat of grease on the splines this should help. thank for watching
@greengrizz660 you will have to take out the front diff it will make i easier to work on.then need to take off the pinion nut off remove the drive shaft coulpling to get to the pinion seal. your better replace the pinion seal and the o-ring and the drive shaft seal, while u have it apart. a trick to get the piniom seal out is to use 2 drywall screws. screw the screws into the seal and pull out with 2 pliers. the drive shaft will come right out once you ubolt the diff. the shaft will have play
Driving the right side seal in till it stops may cause leaks as the spring loaded seal lip is now riding on the wrong section of the shaft which is a smaller diameter than the outer portion of the shaft. Also the dust seal will not keep dust and dirt away from the second sealing lip which will make it prone to leaks. The bottom line is if you note the wear on the surfaces that the seal touches before removing the seal and before installing the new one. And use a seal driver not a broomstick.
when this happend to me on my 05 400 rancher it needed the top end rebuilt because most of the compression is going in the crank case pushing the oil in the air box. try doing a compression test, if its low its the rings, plus check that the oil is not over filled. start there and let me know
THEY CAN BE PAIN SOMETIMES, IF YOU CAN FIND SOMETHING THE SAME SIZE AS THE SEAL THAT YOU CAN TAP THE SEAL IN EVENLY TO GET IT STARTED THEN YOU CAN TAP IT IN ALL THE WAY WITH SOMETHING ELSE. OR TRY TAPPING IT WITH A PLASTIC HAMMER A LITTLE AT A TIME AROUND THE WHOLE SEAL A LITTLE AT A TIME.
I USED A seal puller BUT YOU CAN USE A PICK HOOK OR SCREW A DRYWALL SCREW IN PART WAY THE USEA PLIERS TO PULL IT OUT. WHAT EVER YOU USE BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO DAMAGE THE ALUM HOUSING OR ANY THING ELSE THANK FOR WATCHING
@greengrizz660 its pretty much the same. take the wheel off and then the hub and shock.the ball joints may be tuff .then if you pull the drive shaft out the rest is all most the same as the rear
check that your cables are no over exextended,it may not be sliding well maybe your idol is a little high now because of the rebuild. if you took the slide out the rubber diaphragm on top may not be in right, that happen to me,or it could be a air leak check the clamps on the carb boots
I WATCHED YOUR VIDEO IT SOUND TO ME LIKE YOUR BEARINGS ARE SHOT IN THE DIFFERENTIAL. I HAD A QUAD WITH THE SAME TYPE OF NOISE AND IT WAS THE TWO PINION BEARINGS.THE BAD NEWS IS YOU WILL HAVE TO TAKE IT TO A SHOP OR DEALER BECAUSE IT TAKE SPECIAL TOOLS TO GET THE BEARING OUT AND IN PLUS THE BACK LASH NEEDS TO BE SET. OR FIND A GOOD USED REAR
SURE, ITS VERY MUCH THE SAME AS THE BACK, BUT YOU WILL NEED A TOOL TO REMOVE THE BALLJOINTS, ANY QUESTIONS PLEASE ASK. IF YOU CAN GET A MANUAL IT WOULD BE A BIG HELP TO YA
I have the same quad and i cant get the axle back in the differential. its the left rear. The circlips on the end are stopping it from getting in. how do you solve this problem?
I think you are mistaken when you tell people to drive the seal in all the way. If you noticed the left side of the dif case can be driven in til it stops which will line up 1/16" in from the edge of the case. The right side should be installed almost flush with the edge. Take a look at the seal, there is 3 lips, one for dust, one to keep the water out and another facing inwards to keep the diff fluid in. Also, the dust seal leaves a mark on the inside flange of the axel when installed wrong.
i have a 350 grizzly with a leaking seal. got it all apart no problem but the new seal will not go in no matter what i try. try to get it started and it pops out on the side I'm not hitting on. any suggestions to get the seal to go in? tried the broom handle trick. no luck
at 2:26 you show the litte hose wat was blocked wat was the couse of leaking oil. dus it mean if you unbbloked it you may be dont have to change the seal? Or once it leaked it stais leaking? Sorry about bad englisch. Dutch with bad education ha ha Peter Holland
brian your part number is 93102-65004-00 OIL SEAL it takes a little work to get the rotor off. I would get a repair manual if I was you, it will help. the pads are easy to do.
I watched your video a while back and installed the right side seal all the way in as you suggested. Took the Grizzly for a ride and still was leaking. Your info on pushing the seal all the way in is wrong. I installed a new seal and pushed it where it was flush with the housing. No more leak. You probably should take down this video because you are leading people down the wrong road on the installation.
thanks!
@@derrickkendrick3600 hey I posted a video of it on my page.
Actually is goes flush. The dust seal part of the seal needs to make contact with the axles dust shield and the axle has a step down. The oil sealing ridge is too close to the line the way that you have it. You shouldn't give advice unless you know for sure it is correct. Sincerely, a Yamaha tech.
Agreed - You can buy a brand new differential on Ebay for $180, and if you look at the pics, the seal is clearly flush, only the dust lip that mates with shield protrudes.
Followed your video installing a new seal after putting in new CV axles. After doing more research, I must say you are WRONG about pushing the right seal all the way in. It's supposed to be flush with differential housing, only lip of seal sticks out to mate with CV axle shield.. Do an Ebay search for a brand new differential, and it is clearly flush in photos. Thankfully, before riding at all, I spent 20 minutes working the seal out so it is flush again. I do not know where you got your info, but please don't post videos of something you aren't sure of.
start the axle in the rear with the axle straight tap the wheel end with a plastic deadblow hammer and it should go in. plus make sure the end that goes in the rear is clean and the circlip spins around the grove and then put a light coat of grease on the splines this should help. thank for watching
WTF!! I came here to see it installed!!!
posting videos on how to repair something and not actually showing how to repair it and just rambling on is useless!!! Just saying!
@greengrizz660 you will have to take out the front diff it will make i easier to work on.then need to take off the pinion nut off remove the drive shaft coulpling to get to the pinion seal. your better replace the pinion seal and the o-ring and the drive shaft seal, while u have it apart. a trick to get the piniom seal out is to use 2 drywall screws. screw the screws into the seal and pull out with 2 pliers. the drive shaft will come right out once you ubolt the diff. the shaft will have play
i used a screwdriver but you also can use 2 dryscrews, screw them in a little bit and then use a pair of plyers to pull it out
Driving the right side seal in till it stops may cause leaks as the spring loaded seal lip is now riding on the wrong section of the shaft which is a smaller diameter than the outer portion of the shaft. Also the dust seal will not keep dust and dirt away from the second sealing lip which will make it prone to leaks. The bottom line is if you note the wear on the surfaces that the seal touches before removing the seal and before installing the new one. And use a seal driver not a broomstick.
when this happend to me on my 05 400 rancher it needed the top end rebuilt because most of the compression is going in the crank case pushing the oil in the air box. try doing a compression test, if its low its the rings, plus check that the oil is not over filled. start there and let me know
I WAS GOING TO SHOW STEP BY STEP ON HOW I CHANGED THE SEAL, BUT I HAD SOME PROBLEMS WITH THE CAMERA
yes your right, you may not have to change the seal. with the vent blocked the rear build up pressure and pushes out the weakest point
THEY CAN BE PAIN SOMETIMES, IF YOU CAN FIND SOMETHING THE SAME SIZE AS THE SEAL THAT YOU CAN TAP THE SEAL IN EVENLY TO GET IT STARTED THEN YOU CAN TAP IT IN ALL THE WAY WITH SOMETHING ELSE. OR TRY TAPPING IT WITH A PLASTIC HAMMER A LITTLE AT A TIME AROUND THE WHOLE SEAL A LITTLE AT A TIME.
I USED A seal puller BUT YOU CAN USE A PICK HOOK OR SCREW A DRYWALL SCREW IN PART WAY THE USEA PLIERS TO PULL IT OUT. WHAT EVER YOU USE BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO DAMAGE THE ALUM HOUSING OR ANY THING ELSE THANK FOR WATCHING
@greengrizz660 its pretty much the same. take the wheel off and then the hub and shock.the ball joints may be tuff .then if you pull the drive shaft out the rest is all most the same as the rear
check that your cables are no over exextended,it may not be sliding well maybe your idol is a little high now because of the rebuild. if you took the slide out the rubber diaphragm on top may not be in right, that happen to me,or it could be a air leak check the clamps on the carb boots
I WATCHED YOUR VIDEO IT SOUND TO ME LIKE YOUR BEARINGS ARE SHOT IN THE DIFFERENTIAL. I HAD A QUAD WITH THE SAME TYPE OF NOISE AND IT WAS THE TWO PINION BEARINGS.THE BAD NEWS IS YOU WILL HAVE TO TAKE IT TO A SHOP OR DEALER BECAUSE IT TAKE SPECIAL TOOLS TO GET THE BEARING OUT AND IN PLUS THE BACK LASH NEEDS TO BE SET. OR FIND A GOOD USED REAR
SURE, ITS VERY MUCH THE SAME AS THE BACK, BUT YOU WILL NEED A TOOL TO REMOVE THE BALLJOINTS, ANY QUESTIONS PLEASE ASK. IF YOU CAN GET A MANUAL IT WOULD BE A BIG HELP TO YA
I just didn't know if it was a inner and outer just an outer
I have the same quad and i cant get the axle back in the differential. its the left rear. The circlips on the end are stopping it from getting in. how do you solve this problem?
I think you are mistaken when you tell people to drive the seal in all the way. If you noticed the left side of the dif case can be driven in til it stops which will line up 1/16" in from the edge of the case. The right side should be installed almost flush with the edge. Take a look at the seal, there is 3 lips, one for dust, one to keep the water out and another facing inwards to keep the diff fluid in. Also, the dust seal leaves a mark on the inside flange of the axel when installed wrong.
HOW DO YOU REPLACE A REAR EXLE CV JOIN ON 2004 GRIZZLY 660, PLEASE POST IT.
I'm looking for a front drive shaft for a 2004 Grizzly 660. Must have good splines.
i have a 350 grizzly with a leaking seal. got it all apart no problem but the new seal will not go in no matter what i try. try to get it started and it pops out on the side I'm not hitting on. any suggestions to get the seal to go in? tried the broom handle trick. no luck
hi i have a 2004 grizzly 660 and the front seal is leaking where the drive shaf go into can you help me?
@performancemiles I DON'T HAVE ANYTHING BUT YOU MY WANT CHECK EBAY SOME TIME I GET PARTS OFF THERE
I'm from mexico, I have a problem with my yamaha, can you help?
How did you remove the seal?
I meant to say the dust seal leaves a mark when installed correctly.
at 2:26 you show the litte hose wat was blocked wat was the couse of leaking oil.
dus it mean if you unbbloked it you may be dont have to change the seal?
Or once it leaked it stais leaking?
Sorry about bad englisch. Dutch with bad education ha ha
Peter Holland
Is it the same set up on the front
yes pretty much the same
brian your part number is 93102-65004-00 OIL SEAL it takes a little work to get the rotor off. I would get a repair manual if I was you, it will help. the pads are easy to do.
Show how to take it apart would have made a better video. Wish you would have done that
@400EX99N could you check for me lol? I have no idea what good splines look like. If u find a good shaft send me the number for it.
Thanks for the cue 1:30
SURE ASK AWAY
sympa comme video.
bonne continuation a vous et peut etre a bientot sur ma chaine.
I heard a noise in the differential watch the video on my channel
What the hell
Terrible. Show how to take it appart instead of talking maybe