1999 Mazda B2500 Ford Ranger changing spark plugs and wires
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- čas přidán 2. 06. 2016
- This covers removal and installation of spark plugs and wires in a 1999 Mazda B2500/Ford Ranger with the 2.5L Four Cylinder
These motors have 8 spark plugs, so it's two plugs per cylinder. It wouldn't be too horrible were it not for the plugs on the intake side. Ford, in their wisdom, decided to bury them in the confines of a intake manifold with a 180 degree bend. It took me about 30 minutes to change all the plugs on the exhaust side, but two hours to change them on the intake side.
Hopefully this video can help give you some guidance to get it sorted a little more quickly than that.
Tools Required
5/8" Spark Plug Socket
Socket extensions. I found most everything could be done with a combination of a 10" and a 10" wobble extension.
5/8" socket (Optional) if you happen to have a spark plug socket that tends to come off the wrench before it comes off the plug, I recommend using just a regular socket and a little dielectric grease to hold the plug in the socket while you install it. This was especially useful for 2-3-4 on the intake side.
1/2" socket, There is a sensor that is part of the EGR that blocks you from getting to #4 on the exhaust side. While it's mounted on the exhaust studs, it has its own set of nuts so you're not having to actually loosen bolts holding the exhaust in place.
Flat Blade Screw Driver
I went with the NGK Iridium plugs, I like them, use what you like though. Not getting paid by NGK to promote them, I've just always had good results with their products. - Auta a dopravní prostředky
I am so glad that I found this video. I already changed all of my plugs and wires, finally finished Saturday after working on it off and on for over a month! It makes me feel so much better to see I wasn’t the only one that had problems. Did find out that best way to get wire back on the back one on the drivers side is from underneath the truck.
Dude ima try this i only have that one left to change so im hoping i can do it your way if not im gonna have to take the whole intake off because from the looks of the other plugs that one might just be my problem
Thanks for the video. I finished 1-1/2 hours. The cables of truck that I worked doesn't had the hard gray jackets, but doesn't was a big issue if you use a long reach pliers and patience. Good luck to everyone.
I found it is quicker to remove the top of the air intake. That gasket is not that high and it's a whole lot quicker
super clean engine bay by the way. cleaner than mine.
I was thinking the same
nice video. the quality was the best i have seen in a auto repair video for sure.
thanks GoPro black set to 1080p at 60fps. Silver is capable of that as well though and is a bit cheaper. Had I only known...
I spent 8 hours changing the spark plugs and cables, what a hard job in that truck, a work of 20 minutes in other brands.
Whoever designed this is an absolute sadist that's for sure. Maddening isn't it.
@@jonnymiskatonic do they make any aftermarket headers or intake manifolds I’m trying to build my truck but there’s nothing upgrades
I think I'm going to take the intake manifold off, it seemed pretty easy access
Hope that works out for you
@@jonnymiskatonic lol I'm stuck on one bolt for the EGR valve....
thanks for this video, awesome.
I just took the manifold off. I have big hands and the manifold came off easily. Much easier to remove plugs and make a good connection with the new wires. I think it might be time for this again.
Groan.
Good luck! I swapped the truck for a Previa and now have to remove the passenger seat when I want to swap plugs.
falconeaterf15 that's what I was thinking too. It looks like it will be easier to take the intake off than to try to fight the plugs out with it in place.
Jonny Wonderland I'm keeping my ranger, but I'm about to swap the 2.5 out for a 331. At least that way when I have to change out 8 spark plugs there's not an intake manifold in the way of half of them....
Did you had to replace the gasket on the manifold when you removed it? I was thinking about doing that myself
Thank you John!
Quite welcome. Hope my bumbling around with this nightmare job helps you out.
my moms 1998 mazda b2500 diesel is a hell of a truck, has 340k kilometers and works perfect all you need is good oil changes and maintence on time.
Do the plugs and wires one at a time - no need to remember which cylinder the wires go to or how they route through the engine. And those open holes are just waiting for shit to fall/funnel into your cylinders - nobody needs that.
Also, I do the hardest one(s) first in case I run into a problem.
ty for the video, probably will help me on my 1998 B2500. I didn't know if I could get to the tough ones without removing a cooling line or the manifold.
finally, how tf is that engine compartment so clear? that looked ridiculous.
Yeah, Ford. No wonder they had to abandon their "better idea" slogan - as I recall, some 70's models needed to have their motor mounts loosened and the engine hoisted at bit, just to access / change the oil filter!
Anyway, I now have a 2000 Mazda B2500 with 140k miles on it. "Check engine" code said cyl 3 was missing; I pulled the passenger side cyl 3 plug ('cause it was the "easy" one to access), and it's electrode was blasted away to nearly nothing. So now I'm going to replace all the plugs & wires, and am NOT looking forward to dealing with that intake manifold on the driver's side.
So thanks for posting this, at least now I know I don't have to remove the intake manifold. With any luck, I'll get through the procedure in a single afternoon, with minimal knuckle injury / blood loss. Since you questioned the orientation of the wires at the coil end, my plan is to snap a photo of the original config for reference, before even starting the job.
Thanks!
Magnetic sparkplug socket!!!
This was a huge pain in my ass I just did it today, the engineers must have a death wish with the car gods for making such a stupid decision, all my rubber boots were stuck on the plugs and had to rip them off. All the new ones on the intake side were a serious challenge to remove and install and not get debris in the cylinders. Cylinder 1 plugs were both rusted and almost rusted in completely for some reason. Glad its over. My plugs were noticeably worn, I noticed a little better throttle response, and maybe a slightly smoother idle, or its in all my head
Yeah, I do not know what the intention was on this other than just frustrating anyone who has to work on them. I get the idea of the dual plugs per cylinder to bring up emissions on this old Pinto motor, but come on.
Also how did you get past the coolant line in cylinder 3?
At this point I can't even remember. Sold that truck a few years back. I don't think I had to mess with them
my spark plugs are rusted can I safely spay a little wD40 - let it sit over night? Thanks for the video
Ax4400 nothing unsafe about that, though WD-40 probably isn't gonna cut it. Check out some kroil
Thank you. I let it sit over night & I was able to get spark plug 1 out this morning. I'm DIY trying to get my truck to drive safely again. It just stops running in the middle of the road. Already swapped out a bad Fuel Pump ;)
Does this 00 Mazda B2500se 2.5L truck have a Fuse Panel inside cab on driver's side that can be open?
WHY FORD WHY!!!
first of all 8 plugs?!?!!? why?!
took me like 2 hours just for the ones near the intake.
and I stripped one of my spark plug threads because the plugs were in there for so long no wonder the prev owner didnt change them..
I think it was a practice in torturing mechanics.
How bad is it stripped? I know it's likely a bitch to get to, but I repaired a buggered up thread on a honda with a back tap. Might be something to look in to. Beyond that I'd say if you can afford it, look at time-serts they work amazingly well. They command a hell of a price over helicoil but it's very much worth having around in the event you run into other stripped threads.
Good luck!
how did you get the original spark plug boots off on 3&4 did you have to use needle nose? Or did you just pull by the wire since you were replacing the wires?
If you check around the 6:37 mark you can see that my slighter size was to my advantage. While I have little memory of the event itself it looks like I was able to just reach in there and pop it free. I wear Medium glove at best so that was to my advantage I'm sure. Someone with larger hands would likely not have been able to do that. Do you have a kid available to lend a hand? 😁
@@jonnymiskatonic Ha! Appreciate it. Im a pretty skinny dude too so we shall see. Thanks again for posting the video. Im trying to clear a P0301 cylinder 1 misfire by changing out the plugs and wires and coil pack. We shall see where this goes.
Dam I have the same truck same 1999 Mazda b2500 too and mine is now at 115,560 got the truck from a old man with only 90,000 in 2015 he had all the records and paper what he had done to it great video 👍.
Yeah my only complaint about mine is I have some grinding if I switch too fast to third gear. Otherwise save for a couple dings here and there it's super clean, about the same mileage as yours and is a decent little truck.
I do have that rev up to 3000 rpm issue that I've tried cleaning the idle air control valve to fix, but no luck there. Can't recall if I changed it out entirely or not. I'll have to look at it again to see. Anything like that going on for you?
John Klatt No I don't have that issue , I was watching your video cause I want to change the plugs and wires on mine sorry I can't help with your issue .
No worries. Thanks! Good luck with the plugs and wires! Hopefully this video helps.
But I ain’t ever had to take anything off just got my hand in there
What this calibration spark plus
?
Damn, took my intake off before seeing this. O well
esta muy bien todo.solo un detalle, puede pasarlo en ESPAÑOL. DISCULPA.
how do you like the NGK as opposed to motocraft one?
DIY-HAVEN well they installed the same. for a truck with negligible power output though I notice no real difference. I just know it was on the scheduled maintenance and NGK have never let me down.
You got the 7.5 rear diff? Have you replaced any of the fuel delivery components?
I honestly haven't looked into the spec of the rear end. If that's what came stock standard on the manual transmission versions then yes that's what's in there. I picked this truck up cause my old Mighty Max got t-boned and I needed a truck. This one was at the right price, two owners, with the second just buying it to drive for a couple months and flip. So far it's just been routine maintenance, so I'm afraid I've not replaced any of the fuel delivery components.
I do notice after driving it though if it doesn't cool down it gives me a bit of hesitation in starting back up. It'll turn over 6 or 8 times. Then if I left off the key and try a second later it fires back up. So perhaps there is something going on with the fuel delivery. I've not looked in to it yet though. If I do, I will definitely post about it.
I've seen quite a few videos about fuel pump replacement not sure if it's a common failing point for this model but at the very least I'd replace the fuel filter and have the injectors either cleaned or replaced. eBay has new OEM ones for about $99 a set of four. The OEM fuel filter is about $20.
I'm actually getting ready to go a front end overhaul. I just got 4 new tires and wheels put on. I got the valve cover gasket kit which includes upper and lower intakes gaskets so I wanna wait till I decide whether to buy new injectors or to go thru the pain of cleaning them before I do the vcg job and plugs and wires cuz that's the right way to do them. For a four banger I feel the power is decent you just gotta replace a few key parts and you might be in for a treat my friend!
I did do the filter on it, pretty much right when I got it, as I do with all my vehicles. Forgot about that one. I'll have to look at pulling the injectors and see how they're doing.
I still have an idle issue that I'm chasing down. Seems it affects various Fords. Where it surges to 3000 RPM and hangs there for a while. I think I replaced my IACV as well, but I just can't recall at the moment.
I hated changing mine it is a bitch to change but I love my 98 b2500 2.5
30 minutes and 2 hours.... I got the passenger side done in about 10 minutes and the driver's side done in about 1 hr 45 minutes after deciding not to do the back plug on the driver's side. 1st wasn't too bad, got 2nd and 3rd done, looked at the back plug and said "Fuck that, 1st 3 didn't look too bad, I'll do it later."......
Mine has 468k on the dash cuz🤣it feels like 4th n 5th is losin power mines a manual then again maybe it’s cause the motor
Yeah mine's a manual as well, ended up selling it to a friend.
Is't better take the plenum out,?
Who knows at this point. Sold that truck 5 years ago. Could be but seems like a hell of a design flaw to have to take the plenum out to change the plugs.
Can't you just take off the intake manifold to get to the back hard ones?
yeah I'm sure you could, I had no idea if the gasket could come off cleanly though so I didn't want to add that expense it. and the intake manifold nuts are also a pain in the ass to get to some of them.
aah now what😕😐cool
More?
Auto lite sucks period ngk is all I’ll use
Absolutely horrible design! What should take an hour takes days! I can't wait to get rid of this thing. Every Ford I've owned was some kind of nightmare of stupid.
Wouldn't it be easier to just unbolt the intake?
Could be. I didn't have spare gasket stuff on hand though and needed to get it done. Sold it to a friend a few years back anyway.
Probably someone smoking weed
?
aah now what😕😐cool
More?
Might put a trailer hitch on, not sure =D At some point I need to redo the rear suspsension.