DIY: Ford 2.5L 4cyl Spark Plug and Wire Replacement
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- čas přidán 1. 10. 2015
- Video tutorial on how to replace the spark plugs and wires on a Ford or Mazda 2.5L 4 cylinder twin/dual spark engine. This tutorial does no require having to remove the air plenum to gain access to the spark plugs. The replacement does involve a little more patience, but it she cheaper route in the end. This procedure possibly applies to other variations of this engine or vehicles as well. This particular vehicle I am working with is a 1998 Ford Ranger.
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Tools/Supplies Needed:
-3/8" drive 6" extension
-3/8" drive 3" extension
-3/8" drive 5/8" deep socket with rubber insert for spark plugs
-3/8" drive 5/16" socket
-standard/flat screwdriver
-needle nose pliers
-dielectric grease
-8 new spark plugs
-new spark plug wires
Procedure:
-disconnect the two electrical connector on the sensors on the intake tube
-there is simply a tab on the side with needs to be depressed and then pull the connector straight off
-using a standard/flat screwdriver, loosen the two gears clamps, one on the air filter side and the other on the throttle body side, then pull the rubber intake tube off
-if you plan on keeping the spark plug wires, take extra care when removing them which is by twisting and pulling simultaneously
-remove the plug wires from the driver's side
-starting with the front plug on the driver’s side which has a plastic pull cap that needs to be feed between the alternator and the bracket, then kick the bottom of the boot over to one side
-next plug is fairly straight forward, just twist and pull
-remove the black plastic throttle body cap by taking out the two 5/16” bolts
-the remainder two also have the plastic caps and will need to be removed using needle nose pliers feed between the intake runners, then drop the bottom of the boots down towards the engine block and pull the tops over to the front of the engine
-remove the spark plug wires from the coil pack by depressing the tabs on each side, then twisting and pulling the wire simultaneously
-some wires might be numbered, others may not be, be sure to take the correct steps if not
-some coil packs might be numbered, others may not be, be sure to take the correct steps if not
-spark plug gaps should be set by the manufacturer, but always make sure just to double check that using either a spark plug gapping tool or feeler gauges
-the specifications are printed on a white tag located on the rad support and are .042 to .046 thousands of an inch
-for the first spark plug, use a 5/8" deep socket with a rubber insert, 3" extension, 6" extension, and a 3/8" drive ratchet
-second spark plug, use a 5/8" deep socket with a rubber insert, 3" extension, 6" extension, and a 3/8" drive ratchet
-third spark plug, use a 5/8" deep socket with a rubber insert, 6" extension, universal joint, 3" extension, and a 3/8" drive ratchet
-forth spark plug, use a 5/8" deep socket with a rubber insert, 6" extension, universal joint, 3" extension, and a 3/8" drive ratchet
-install the new spark plugs for the driver’s side
-the new spark plug wires that were purchased for this truck are numbered, but yours may not be
-whether they are numbered or not, be sure to double check and match up the wires
-install the plastic boot caps on the correct wires
-remove the plastic wire retaining clips and they can be installed before or after you finalize the positioning of the wires
-feed the new wires into place, in reverse of removal
-if you wish, you can also apply some dielectric grease to the tips of the spark plugs which prevents moisture affecting the tips or a chance of corrosion
-remove the spark plug wires on the passenger side
-with the first spark plug to the rear of the engine on the passenger side, use a 5/8" deep socket with a rubber insert, 6" extension, and a 3/8" drive ratchet
-this also applies to the second and third plug on the passenger side, use a 5/8" deep socket with a rubber insert, 6" extension, and a 3/8" drive ratchet
-as for the last spark plug, remove the electrical connector on the coil pack by pulling apart the clips and pulling straight off, then use a 5/8" deep socket with a rubber insert, 6" extension, and a 3/8" drive ratchet
-install the new spark plugs
-install the new wires and ensure they are appropriately matched
-then install the rest of the parts in reverse of installation
Thank you to all those who watch my videos and support my content. Don't forget to subscribe to my channel for future tutorial videos and like my video if you found it helpful. New videos are always being uploaded every week!
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No part of this video or any of its contents may be reproduced, copied, modified or adapted, without the prior written consent of the author. - Auta a dopravní prostředky
I learned long ago (likely before you were born) to pull one plug, and it's wire, install the replacement plug, then wire. I learned it the hard way. Yes, I did get them on correct, after consulting a firing order diagram and wiring schematic, but that added more time than I thought I was saving. I do appreciate the correct tool tips; Those saved a lot of time over the last time I had to figure that out on my own. The video's quality is excellent, I just wouldn't recommend removing the whole bank at once.
# 3 driver's side is the biggest PITA!
This is how a video is to be made. Well done sir.
Thank you! Don't forget to subscribe for more Ranger videos ;)
You make it look so easy to get those wires on those back driver side plug
Fastest spark plug job on a 2.5 I have ever seen!!!!!😳
Well I like to keep everything to the point and not waste time ;)
"The last two plug wires can be a pain to remove..."
Little bit of an understatement.
Tell me about it😂
Yeah, #3 took me a solid 1.5 hours
I'm on youtube right now trying to find out how yall change the back 2.
Does not look fun.
Nice. Clear and concise. Thanks for the video.
+Samuel Monteon Thank you.
Absolutely Great Video. I subscribed and hit the bell! Another great way to remove the hard to reach #3 plug boots is a loop of wire (coat hanger or safety wire) long enough to grab the little tang on the plastic and pull. My dad (mechanic) taught me not to use feeler gauges unless that's all you have to gap a plug since the top electrode front edge is not always perfectly flat due to the way it is cut when manufactured. Use the wire type gap gauge as it has a single point of contact at each electrode and NEVER use the little $1 wheel gap tool as they fall into the category of almost useless and are wildly inaccurate. I used a my calipers on several at work (chain auto store) and none were closer than +/- .003.
Awesome, thank you so much for the support and feedback :)
Excellent and clear...Thank you
Good video. I would like a little more guidance on installing wires #3 and #4 on the drivers side. I did manage to get #4 in watching the technique on another video, but can't for the life of me get #3 in place. Otherwise, top notch.
Which video did you watch that shows you how to install wires 3 and 4 on the driver side
What is the module bolted to the front left coil pack bolt at 1:48? my wire has corroded off and I don't know what to order.
Hi I love your video and I have a question I took my coil pack out and forgot the order in it which in was in I have a cord 2.5 4 cylinder motor 1999 and only one coil pack how do I get the right firing order,,,thanks
@ 4:06 we move to the passenger side of the engine. What is that flat box that is held in place by a bracket that attaches to the exhaust manifold? It has a plug that attaches on the side of the box that looks in the direction of the fender.
What is that?
Thank you for making this video Apprecuated
Glad to help out and don't forget to subscribe :)
Nice work! 👏
I got a question whats the gap for the B2500 spark plugs.
thank you very professionally done
Thank you!
Thank you so much for making this video it's truly truly shows me how simple this spark plug change it and I've been fearing doing cuz I thought it was more complicated
You are very welcome!
Short and sweet. Very informative. 👍👍 Rom. 8:31
Thank you!
My wires came off With lots of Fighting. I got all the passenger sides on but can't get the driver sides on I hope this video can help me
Good video. I can tell you' are not a fucking fool like a lot of you tubers.
Thank you, I really appreciate the feedback!
Plug 3 can be removed with a 9" and a 3" extension WITHOUT the universal. Don't use the universal unless you have to and if you do have to tape it to the extension so it doesn't fall off and you lose a tool ( yep this happened to me)
Excellent, thank you for the feedback!
I think your video is great!!! My 98 Ranger was plumbed different and I had to replace the #3 & #4 spark plugs from the bottom on the drivers side because of blockage between the last 2 runners but your video was the reason I saved a few hundred dollars for a tune up thanks for what you do to help people like myself who haven't worked on cars for years to get motivated and go get it done!!!
Awesome to hear, so happy I could help!
You just saved me $250. Thanks so much bro it wasn’t hard at all if you take your time 👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾
Awesome to hear and thank you so much for the feedback!
Bad ass video!
Thank you!
I recently bought this truck and I noticed that wire 3 and 4 on the driver side do not have any of the plastic caps with the plastic arm. Any tips on getting those out since I can’t grab the plastic arm with needle nose like you showed in this video.
If you're not keeping the wires, just give them a pull. They make break, but as long as you're able to get that boot off, you'll be able to get a socket on. The only other option is using extended needle nose pliers.
99 Ford ranger manual transmission 280.000 miles has a rattle or ticking noise can't tell but sounds like could be coming from bottom of the engine. Was told truck needs clutch and the transmission times when it doesn't want to go in to hear wondering if the noise is coming from transmission or if it could have broken piston or bearing going out as well as transmission. How to troubleshoot?
Tough to diagnose without seeing the vehicle in person. Does the sound change when pushing in the clutch, temperature of the engine, or change in rpm? Could be something as simple as an exhaust shield.
Do you know the firing order?
Where did you get the boot covers from? I can't find them anywhere.
They came with the wires.
@@4DIYers wierd. I did get any with my wires.
I did this on my 2.5 and i had more trouble placing 3, 4 boots back on.
buen video!!!🍺
Thank you!
What kind of plugs you use? Platinum or double platinum..
Single platinums are fine.
I have a 98 Ford Ranger 5.2 liter I want to go check one of the plugs and when I pulled the little rubber boot off the plug the wire on top came out in the little rubber boot was still on the spark plug I pulled the rubber boot off and it looks like it's been Mickey Mouse will not do any harm to the motor if it wasn't properly connected
Travis Terrill damn got that shelby engine in here
When you say 5.2, does it have the voodoo engine in it? If so, is it for sale?
What is the torque spec for the spark plugs
1 and half uga dugga
Thank you for the video. I watch it over & over because we have the same engine 2.5L, I'm having trouble with 00 Mazda B2500SE Manual Trans.
Don't like to criticize because I appreciate & respect people sharing their technical Auto experience & knowledge, just If you spoke just a bit slower, you would sound less like an advertiser ;) Again thank you for a very helpful video. Quick ques. Already bought Motorcraft SP-421 AGSF32FM Spark Plugs but not new wires before watching your video. Forums recommend Motorcraft but I see alot of people using NGK, seems you are using NGK. There is a big Price difference. Can I use NGK with Motorcraft Spark Plugs? What you think about Standard Brand 8 Wire Set, I can just buy them locally?
Glad to help out and thanks for the feedback! For the quicker speech, I was trying out something different, but now have all my video formats perfected so they're easier paced.
Motorcraft is Ford OEM auto parts, so it's what it came with from the factory. NGK is an excellent company as well, it really comes down to personal preference. I've used a lot of different brands over the years, can't say I've really had any negative experience even outside of Motorcraft or NGK. If you're not running the truck on a performance basis, you probably won't notice that much of a difference. Beyond the quality of wires, the other two big factors is thickness and resistance rating. Thicker wires and lower resistance usually means better performance. You can mix different manufacturers with wires and spark plugs with no issues.
Thanks for your answer.
Click on the settings icon at the bottom of your video screen-- You will see options to change the playback speed-- The .75 setting should give you the playback speed your looking for-- The settings icon looks like a six slotted torx driver or an external torx fastener. (It may have a specific name but I don't know what it is)
Wait a minute I did' see you remove the 4 sparl plug on the driver side😂
So wait even tho it's a 4 cylinder there's 8 plugs and wires?
It's designed for emissions as far as I know. I just bought a Dodge Ram V8 Hemi and it has 16 spark plugs lol.
It would be nice if it was really that easy !
harbor freight has extra long needle nose pliers with a 90 degree end that makes this job a lot easier for around 15 dollars you will see how useful these pliers are the 90 degree helps hook and pull on these hard to reach plug wires and many jobs with hard to reach things you will find your self using them all the time if you do much diy products and I do not work for harbor freight just like to help
You mean 2.3 don't you?I've never hear of ford 2.5,just saying.🤔
No, this is a 2.5 only made for a couple years if I remember correctly.
F this truck and it's spark plugs.