Ford Ranger 2.3 and 2.5 timing marks and timing belt Install DIY, Best Diy.
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- čas přidán 17. 07. 2021
- 89-01 Ford Ranger, Mazda b2300, Mazda b2500 easy timing belt install on a 2.3 and 2.5 4 cylinder engines, common mistakes shown, do it right first time.
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Super helpful being able to see the timing indicators with an unobstructed view of the front of the engine. Thanks for the upload!
I got a 94 Ford ranger 2.3 l motor I watched numerous and numerous videos on CZcams how to put it in time been having trouble at the watching this video it was a simple video and it makes 100% correct I know what I was doing wrong I was leaving too much black in the belt simple videos that's what all you need
Heck yeah, I needed you in 2020. Happy to find this video even in 2021!
👍
It's got timing Mark's
It @ 1⁹⁸9 engine
Best explanation I've seen. You are a steely eyed missle man. Quote from the movie Apollo 13.
Good movie 👍
video helps as my cam gear looked exactly the same as yours, few mm off from being perfectly lined up but looked the same as yours
Thanks! Great info!
great explication.
Great job!
awesome man thank you
thank you so much!!!!!!
What about the generations that don't have a mark for the pullu on the right/ driver side?
Got a ranger at an auction it ran great it needed a lot of Maintenance the tensioner on the serpentine belt was stuck The Idler pulley was squealing had no breaks at all fixed all of that and then I check the timing belt and it was well worn so I replaced it while I was in there replace the water pump turn the thermostat gasket Andy crank sensor put it all back together now there's a knocking noise in the cam with 160,000 Mi on it it looks like it's off to the scrap yard.
Cant really see where top cam markers line up ....? Ideas?
Now if it was this easy inside the truck lol
It a 1989 Ford ranger 2_5 8 piugs whàt the timing set on
I have a question regarding the oil pump on my 95 Ranger (behind that sprocket). A few years back I replaced seals on my crankshaft and oil pump. After putting it all back together I still had a small oil leak. I thought it might have been the gasket on the oil pump housing. I've torn back into it. I've removed the 4 bolts on the oil pump housing. Will the oil pump housing separate from the shaft or housing/shaft pull out from the front side to replace that gasket? Thanks.
Shaft is part of the oil pump, you can pull the whole pump out and replace the gasket between the pump and the block.
@@everydayirace Thanks for getting back. Today I saw a pic of the part in 3d and it looked like it would pull out. 300k on that 2.3, it's a little sluggish but still getting me around. I get a lot of complements on the truck, I'd love to rebuild the motor and replace some metal around the rear wheel wells. I didn't realize how popular that 2.3 is in the racing world. Thanks again.
Is the oil pump gear placement t
hat important? In the old days that gear turned the distributor so phasing it was very important.
There's a cam position sensor right behind oil pump pulley that reads a signal, so probably important, I'll have to try to change it and see what happens.
What is the part number for the belt? I have a 1998 b2300 with a 4cyl. Got a 276 belt from AZ and it was about 4in too long. The original belt is a 131 tooth that snapped clean. Cant find a replacement
Gates T276 is for a 2.5 in the Mazda’s 1998 was the last year of the B2300 but the first year of the B2500 you need a gates T210 that’s what i would try next. Unless you ended up figuring it out? Did the 276 fit good on the teeth of the sprockets. I swapped a 2.5 into my 1993 ranger that had a 2.3 and I did notice that the teeth on the sprockets where different between the 2.5 and 2.3
Waited for you to use the 17mm wrench on the nut of the spring tensioner, what happened?
I noticed that as well
My timing belt snapped on my 99 ranger, 2.5L while driving it. I tried starting it without knowing that was the issue. I'm wondering if I should expect damage in the engine. The Haynes manual said not to attempt starting if the timing is off since it will damage the engine so not sure if I should worry about that. I'll be working on replacing this, not pulling the engine so probably gonna be a lot harder, first time attempting this.
It's a non interference engine, so nothing hits when timing belt breaks, and it's also one of the easiest engines to replace timing belts.
@@everydayirace ah good to know. Your video makes it look easy, I think I need to pull the ac compressor and bracket from what I've seen from another video.
@@static2601 yes, remove fan, belt, ac compressor, ac bracket, balancer, timing cover and the belt is next.
@@everydayirace yeah but MINE is a 99 4 cylinder figuring 2.3! Is IT a non interference engine!! On the engine stand I should get one with a lower end rebuilt and change alot of stuff over at 256,000 miles on my truck haha!
Will the timing being off make the engine not wanna start when it's at running temperature? It starts fine when it's cold
That sounds like vapor lock, which is very rare in these, so it's more likely the camshaft position sensor and/or crankshaft position sensor, check those before delving into the timing belt...if it's easily been 60k+ miles since the timing belt has been replaced, I would bite the bullet and do that anyways. I got the belt and tensioner kit for about 40 bucks, a pulley puller and a couple gallons of antifreeze and did the job on a Friday afternoon, which solved my long-crank issues.
@@somethingtrulyhorrifying no, I fixed it, with a new purge valve and a engine temperature sensor, not sure which one was but they were both bad.
I've got a 1993 2.3 Ranger with NO timing marks on the inner cover. The "Haynes" manual isn't very specific. I know the crank is at 12 o`clock, and the cam has a spot which is obvious. The auxiliary has NO distinguishable mark that I can see. I cleaned everything but I don't see any Diamonds,Triangles, or ANYTHING for that matter. Note, my engine looks exactly like yours, other than the lack of timing marks. Your help would be greatly appreciated
93 doesn't have a cam position sensor, nor distributor, it just spins oil pump, it doesn't really matter which way you clock it, but if you want to clock it anyways, the plate behind cam should have both marks, 1 mark 3.5 teeth clockwise and other mark is 9.5 teeth counterclockwise from the indentation on the plate.
@@everydayirace THANK YOU VERY MUCH
so this is what im havingproblems with i notice your marks areoff alittle and notice the mark on my old one the same is that how it go's on causei cant line them mark up perfect for shit...
They will have to be close enough.
You said "everything is perfect" but the marks looked a little off, especially the crankshaft.
i notice the samething
How do you get the timing marks on crankshaft and camshaft lined up right if they are out of line. If I rotate crankshaft 2 times will it bring them back in line
A cam turns half speed as a crankshaft
He addressed that in the video, maybe watch again and listen this time
Is actually should be off it should be 10° at advanced
Are these interference engines?
No, they aren't.
Sound too low ...
Hi, I have a Mazda B2300 - same as a Ford Ranger I'm told. Ever since I bought it a few years ago, it has always been hard to start. To me it feels like the ignition timing is retarded and it's very under-powered. I've been told there is no adjustment possible to the ignition timing. I've replaced plugs, wires, coil packs etc etc with no improvement except it runs smooth once started. How do I set the ignition timing and where is the ignition timing pickup? And can this under-power be compensated by moving the cam shaft timing belt one belt cog one way or the other? Any help would sure be appreciated. Thank you.
Ignition timing isn't adjustable..... unless you install a stand alone ECU. Moving camshaft isn't going to compensate for an engine that has internal problems, it sounds very similar to what my engine was doing, so I took the engine apart and found the problem, here's a video of it czcams.com/video/DgTiV-nV9J0/video.html