Timing Belt Replacement Ford 2.3 and 2.5 1996-2011
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- čas přidán 1. 07. 2017
- I show how to replace a timing belt on a 1996-2011 Ford 2.3 and 2.5 engines used in Rangers and Explorers. This procedure will not work on the 2.3 used in the Focus.
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ranger.auto.repair@gmail.com - Auta a dopravní prostředky
I’ve got my Ranger apart. New timing belt installed. Time to put her back together. Fingers crossed.
Hello, sir! I wanted to thank you sincerely for providing us with such an indepth, thorough video! It was a massive help in getting my truck of the same make and model fixed. The previous owner allowed the water pump to rot and the blade dissolved into pieces and was sitting in the engine block. And worse, the thermostat rusted out and did not allow any liquid flow from either direction. You don't even want to know about the timing belt. Your video here was invaluable in helping me get my truck working and I am so grateful. Truly, thank you for making such a wonderful instructional video. It saved my bacon! - David
I'm halfway done with my 99 Ford Ranger 2.5 timing belt replacement, I couldn't have done it without this video. I've had this wonderful truck for many years and I still don't know why It has 8 spark plugs.
I’m glad that this video can help, I actually have an answer to why there’s 8 spark plugs, that began in 1989 on the 2.3 in the ranger and they thought it would help with emissions because when one plug would burn and their companion plug would burn when the next stroke came up, so you had a plug firing on compression and one firing on exhaust (or something like that) and they kept it this way up until they decommissioned the 2.5 in 2001. When they revived the 2.3 and the 2.5 they are actual 4 cylinder engines.
@@ranger.auto.repair
Now I know -- thanks!
@ranger.auto.repair first I got to say this is the best video on this truck I've found. You are very thorough and I appreciate that. My friend just lost his timing belt. Thank God this is not an interference motor! On the 8 plugs for a 4 cylinder, my '85 Nissan had the same thing. Reason was for emissions. 4 plugs in the exhaust manifold burned off any fuel that didn't get burned in the engine. Simple but effective. Wish I still had it but it's gone now. Thank you again for making this video 👍👍
That's such a nice feeling after you get done working on something and have it START
Because when it doesn't start that's such a sinking in the bottom of your heart that nobody likes
Way2go I hope mine starts back up the same way
BTW A-Mobile-Mechanic
within 15 minutes of him showing up told me it was blown up
my buddy takes two minutes to look under the hood and finds a busted timing
So be careful with these mobile mechanics
And I'm a carpenter and did not want to work on a vehicle but here I am.
Thanks for the inspiration
Thank You . Carefully used a large Pry bar and Hammer , tapped the Hormonic balancer , it came off off . I had two marks on the Cam pulley , didn't realize it at first , used the other one , and all three indicators lined up .Changed the belt ,no problem .
Thanks for explaining it so well.
Wow! That is a lot of work! You have a great way to teach! Keep the vids coming! Thank you!
Awesome!!! Done my timing belt change and everything was super easy! Thank you man
Glad it helped!
A super easy way to bleed the cooling system is to simply fill the radiator to top when cold, start engine and remove the throttle body pre-heater coolant hose from the heater hose, this hose tee's off the heater hose and is visible at 18:31 in the video, slide the pinch clamp off, pull the hose off and fill the radiator til coolant starts coming out, re-attach and you are done. No squeezing, no cap turning...this vents the cooling system without hassle and prevents air lock. No "burping" required. This is the way i do it at my shop.
Jim, I did this method on mine and it worked perfectly. Thanks for the tip. Last time I done it by the 4 hoses on the HCV. It worked to, but it was a pain and my hands were cooked by the time I got done. Lol
Thank you for all the extras you done.
Thank you so much for your video👍
Nice presentation, but did you show the actual installation of the belt and the release of the tensioner onto the belt, and the follow up couple of rotations of the motor to set the tensioner properly and check that the timing marks lined up after engine rotation? I really did not see any of that.
There wasn't any video of the installation. I'm really surprised that nobody else in the comments section seems to have noticed.
You're legendary man
is the belt change sorta easy for a not great shade tree
i have done this without the balancer removed i did however cut the plastic housing
Can you tell me if the oil pump should spin freely because mine is catching releasing catching releasing and I don't know if that is normal behavior or not. Mines a 93 or 94 bc my crank sensor is on the right side facing the engine. (driver's side) and my dashboard cluster is same as my 90 model bronco 2. Thank you ahead of time
That’s an interesting question, as far as I know the oil pump would rotate normally, it does with the distributor style engines, I think the 88 and up 2.3 and 2.5 engines use a gear on the camshaft for oil pump function. When I took mine down years ago I have the hole in the block for a distributor and it was blocked, and I remember where the oil pump sits there was a gear on the camshaft, so if yours is not catching and staying engaged you might have a worn pump gear. To my knowledge those are part of the camshaft and so the whole thing gets replaced…
Great video, now I'm ready to tackle my 96 ranger. One question did u line up the timing mark's after or before u removed the belt.
you can do it either way, use a paint marker to mark all three locations. when you install the new belt usually the crank pulley will move clockwise when you tighten the tensioner which will throw the mark off one tooth on the crank pulley. to defeat this simply turn the crank counter-clockwise one tooth further to the left of the mark (this will make it go back to the paint mark when you tighten the tensioner.
install the belt, tighten and the mark will be about right. Rotate the engine over by hand a couple times and you can check the three marks to be spot on.
@@jimmyers8114 do u still have to check and see if cylinder 1 is up or are the 3 marks all
Great video.
Did you have any trouble turning the oil pump (auxiliary shaft) sprocket to get oil pump timing set. I am working on a 98 ford ranger (same as mazda). The belt actually broke while driving. Did some research and discovered the ford Lima 4 engine is not an interference engine so Im assuming the valves have not been damaged. I have everything off and am ready to install belt but I cannot rotate the Oil sprocket (auxiliary shaft) to get the timing marks aligned. Any Idea what is happening here?
Your correct that none of the 2.3 or 2.5L engines used in Rangers and some cars are non interference, in 1988 Ford stopped using distributors which was what ran the oil pump and made the oil pump a full on cam lobe system, if you are unable to turn the pump pulley whats probably happened was the oil pump cam lobe was worn down to the point it locked up against the oil pump and thats most likely what caused the belt to break. At this point you can remove the oil pump cam and investigate, from what it sounds like to me you're gonna need to replace the oil pump, the pump cam, or both. Hope this helps.
Impact
Good video
Thank you for the very detailed, informative video. I would have liked to have seen you remove the belt cover. What brand of belt did you mount? I am in Spain with an American made 2000 Ford Ranger XLT that I brought from the US. (Do not ask why). I am currently shopping on the internet for few parts I need. One of them being the timing belt and water pump. The automotive mechanic that will be performing the job told me to change water pump at the same time I replace the timing belt for some reason. I have come across DNJ timing belts. They carry a Kit with everything from belt to water pump. Do you know this brand? During your demonstration I could follow your instructions easily but found the process to be somewhat complicated. I guess a seasoned mechanic would see this whole process with different eyes. Congrats on your skills to explain things with so much detail and the effort you made to show how to and the reasons why behind each move. I am impressed.
Thank you for your compliments, whenever I do a timing belt I use Gates belts because they are built to last in case I am unable to change the belts on time, or if I am in extreme climates I know my belt won't break. I have not heard of DNJ Belts and with that being said, whatever brand you use should work fine as long as its installed properly. On the water pump issue, I change the water pump when it shows signs of failure, now there is an exception and that is when it comes to imports or vehicles where the timing chain or belt also drives the water pump, if its one of those I will then change the water pump. On the Rangers, the water pump is driven with the accessory belt and is outside the timing area so it can be monitored, never change something that isn't broken.
I wonder why my mechanic told me to change the water pump at the same time? I am going to ask him again so I can explain it: I do not want to sound like a fool who does not know what he is saying. I agree with you in that, if the belt that drives the water pump is not involved with the timing belt, then the answer is obvious. My truck is a 2000 Ford Ranger XLT and I brought it from California cause I had to move here for the time being. It is an american car alright. The thing is that when it comes to repairs it gets tricky and I am not familiar with any reputable, trustworthy internet store that will carry quality parts and are honest, and willing to ship international. I do not want to become a victim of any unscrupulous individual out there and find myself installing dangerous parts in my car not considering the financial cost and the time it takes. I have found two .com stores: CarID and Partsology. I am checking them out. That timing belt has got to be a well made part that will be able to prevent a catastrophic failure just cause...
@@lonerhino3229 it's just a lot easier to go ahead and change the water pump while you got the whole front of the motor off. You don't have to but considering they're under $50, it's worth it as preventive maintenance. My belt just snapped at 190k miles. I went ahead and changed the head gasket, water pump, thermostat, plugs and wires. Pretty much everything that's a pain to change by itself. Hopefully I can hit 400k before I have to turn another wrench on it lol.
your vid give me POWAAH! you Such a veryvery nice man
weeeeeeeeeeeeeee
Hi how can I change the front crankshaft seal , I have to remove the timer belt ? And how I remove the sprocket, the seal is behind the sprocket right?
Save your self the hassle and take it to the ford dealer and spend 10 grand for the repair
The front crankshaft seal is behind the harmonic balancer, you’d line up the marks and pull the timing belt then pull the lower pulley with a puller then using a seal puller remove the front seal, then clean the area and tap a new seal in. And then put it all back together.
Got a question for ya. I did this job on my Ranger clone, and something keeps walking the new timing belts off, I think it might be the tensioner. I replaced the tensioner too, cause the old one was shot, kind of looks like the new one keeps cocking itself off to the side. Just to be sure I didn't get a bunk one I went and got another one, same thing happened. Also the spring retaining pin keeps trying to walk itself out. I'm pretty sure I didn't lose any parts, thinking maybe the previous owner lost something? Was there a washer behind your tensioner or anything? I've had this truck sitting around for a few months now, I'm totally stumped as to what I need to do to get this thing working right.
Timing Belts or just belts in general usually only walk off the pulleys if the belt is misaligned, so to check for this, put the belt on and take a straight edge and place it on the outside of the upper pulley and the lower pulley and see if the straight edge starts taking an angle, it should sit level, then run it between the tension and the pulleys individually, once you find out which pulley is not aligned, check for things such as in the case of the crankshaft pulley they might decide to work their way off if the center bolt comes loose, the top will do this also, with the belt on take a socket and check the center bolts on your pulleys, if they are fine and its the tensioner, then double check how its installed, some times if they are installed backwards or the hardware is on the wrong side it will cause the tensioner to walk the belt off. Also, is your belt completely tight? Take and loosen the tensioner and then take a small prybar behind the tensioner and move the tensioner out until you can feel the belt as tight as possible then tighten the tensioner. there should be 1/4 deflection if the belt is on right, theres some videos out there that talk about belt deflection. Hope this helps.
@@ranger.auto.repair appreciate it, turns out the tensioner was kicking out and deflecting for some reason when I tightened down the lock bolt. I loosened it up some and the belt stayed on. For whatever reason the new tensioner was slightly different than the old one, the pulley was slightly bigger and in its fully torqued down position the plate doesn't sit flush with the engine. After messing with it for frickin' days and it doing the same thing over and over, I finally just left the lock bolt slightly loose but still tight enough to not back itself out, and it works fine now.
Not sure why they'd do dumb sh*t like that, but maybe its like the driver's side motor mount thing, you can't find one of those anymore and every aftermarket parts supplier thinks its identical to the passenger side when it isn't. I suspect Ford does that kinda crap on purpose just to try to force obsolescence. Think they know they made the old Lima engines too good for their profit margins.
With the key way up on the crank, was the mark on the harmonic balancer at 0 tdc? 🤔
If you’ve got the crank keyway straight-ahead at top, and you put the pulleys back on for the belts that has the timing marks on them it should read at zero however because this is a electronically controlled timing system it doesn’t necessarily have to be at zero the only thing you need to be concerned with is that your mark on the cam shaft is straight down from the mark on the crank so that it forms a straight line that is all you need to be worried about the vehicle through the PCM adjust the timing on its own.
Does this apply to a 2004 focus zts.
No, the focus is a completely different system, I believe it’s a chain system and shouldn’t need replacement until about 200,000 miles or if the water pump fails.
How do you get the pulley off when there are no bolt holes???
The harmonic balancer has provisions for a puller but in most cases it can be tapped off, that’s the only thing that needs to be removed.
Did you replace the front seal on the crankshaft?
Didn’t have to since the crank pulley wasn’t removed. I only change them when I removed the crank pulley.
Thanks man i do my ford ranger 98
I wish I had someone with me to just teach me one time with all this car stuff
It's called Autoshop in school.
An INDISPENSABLE class they took away creating a class of people to NOT work on your own vehicle.
In other words, creating dummy's to pay smarties to do everything.
Danzig, the best way to learn without going to school, is to just start working on your own stuff. Start off small and work your way up. You can learn alot of these videos, Google forums and by just doing it. I just got done doing my timing belt and head gasket for the first time. My advice is always keep up with where your nuts and bolts go and take plenty of pics as you take it apart, just incase you forget where something goes.
Queria saber onde fica o sensor de fase da ranger 97 2.3 pq moro no Brasil e quase ngm tem
I'm having such a problem with overheating stock radiator is out the door
Replacing it with a 3 core radiator from a full size
Yes I know I'm going to have to do a bit of fabricating like an electric fan and they do sell a sensor for it to turn on and off as.
I'd like to give a shout out to O'Reilly on State Road 52 Florida for suggesting the
I broke that (low pressure return) nipple off the power steering pump,due to movement caused by a broken motor mount......anyhow,it was brandy new....so i j.b. welded it.....Never a problem
no because these are non interference engines so if the belt snapped as it did to me the engine is fine, just set the timing marks up, clean out the remains of the old belt, put on a new belt and your all set.
there exists a 2011 American ford with spark plug wires and a distributor? those became obsolete right around the time obd2 became standard >
the only ford that I know of that used a distributor past OBD 2 was the V6 engines, the 3.8, 4.0, the early 2.8 and 2.9 engines. OBD 2 mainly did away with the need for a distributor, unless its Dodge or GM.
Great video I just did mine drove 500 miles n staryed missing took all back apart and it was out of time got it all back together nuthin want start now.???? Any ideas ?????
wood123ish you might have it 180 degrees out, pull the number 1 plug which is forward most plug on passenger side and put a rag in the hole, rotate crank until the rag pops out or you hear air, that’s top dead center, then line up your timing marks like I did in the video and that should do it.
@@Charlies_Corner sweet man I had it the first time when I put it back together idles fine started perfect and it's got 241 thousand miles on it and the belt hadn't broke or nothing I went ahead and replaced it and the water pump and I go to start it up one day and it's missing but I think it's my PCV valve that is missing that I've realized and that is how I did it the first time though was took the number one plug out and make sure it was a cop and rotated a little bit before I put it all back together but I got a tour down right now I want to get it put back together with the PCV valve and clean it up a little bit I replace the gasket Sons auto body intake and the three plugs underneath intake
@@Charlies_Corner dtove fine for 500 miles and I notice it was missn back and I also noticed the pcv missing and I had a extra hose and I couldn't fine were it went and I blocked the hose with a screwbdriver and truck ran good. Idk I'm getting a pcv value 2moro and settn it back and hope for tha best thanks man..will probly be back in touch lol. Merry Christmas
@@wood123ish please, please use punctuation when you type online.
if my belt snapped do you think the truck is ruined . same truck actually
If the truck was running when the timing belt snapped good chance your pistons hit your valves.
Michael Persson it's no interference
Good to know !! Im no longer too worried if my own belt should go on my own 2,5
Michael Persson yes I was freaking at first but after the belt it was fine.
Can you left the back wheels instead of having a car or truck behind it
no because in my case the bolt was so tight, I tried an impact, a 1/2 drive ratchet and a 6 foot bar, I tried blocking the wheels with bricks and putting the trans in 4th, tried the starter method, and nothing worked, I put one truck behind the other to aid on giving me more torque because the truck would try to roll, I set the parking brake and pulled as hard as I could and it finally came loose. Sometimes you have to get creative when doing this job.
Good
Chevere
Should have changed timing belt tensioner to as well cause the bearing will go out and make all kinds of noise or make your belt slip
The tensioners on the 2.5 and the early 2.3’s were actually built really well and only need to be changed every other belt, the newer zetec 2.3 that replaced the 2.5 should be changed every belt. This truck has the 2.5 so it wasn’t necessary.
I wanna see you throw some sea foam at it and then do pulls!!! SEND IT
You didn't just hit the belt tensioner to take off the belt, because your going to , to put the belt back on.
Tip: drill a 1/16 inch hole in thermostat for cooling system bleeding.
1/2" breaker bar on the bolt "wedged" against the frame... and tap the starter.. pops right off every time (a lot quicker)- and a Must if you have a automatic trany.
That works every time
I've done this before but can't u do it with as manual?
@@pointedspider if you try to take the bolt off of a car with a manual transmission, and the manual transmission is in neutral the motor will just turn over but if you put that transmission in gear the lower the better the transmission will lock or hold the motor. On a car that's an automatic the torque converter does not lock, this makes it essential to use the starter motor with the breaker bar held to the car's frame to undo the harmonic balancer bolts. Yes you can use the starter method on a manual but there's no need to put the car in gear except the e-brake , and unscrew the bolt.
Don’t reuse the coolant. It has a 2 year lifespan.
If the coolant was reused it’s probably because it was new, per OEM I change all coolant on all vehicles after 2 years. Thank you for the info though.
compeletely skipped how to remove and re-install the tensioner pulley bracket. im under the impression that this tensioner pulley is to be replaced when timing belt is replaced, ya?
You don't remove the bracket unless its being replaced with the belt and gears, its best just to reset the tensioner until your ready.
Great but filmed on a calculator
170k on the original timeing belt that’s kinda hard to believe
Not really,.. I've changed mine at 160,000. Of course the belt had no tension,.. none. Could have been a set up for a bad day.... lol
99 Ford Ranger with 2.5 liter 4 cylinder pushing 253000 and still strong!
Lol mine had 200k on it
I got 249k and it just broke lol
Mine just broke at 215k. Having a hard time getting it timed now.