Wow I finally understand what the inside of my engine looks like and a bunch of other things the repair manuals don’t show. I’m dyslexic so reading about things can be difficult but with pictures and videos I can understand what I’ve read more easily. Thank you.
I am in the middle of rebuilding a 1994 2.3 with the Same Issues, Though the Water pump was still intact. The exhaust Valves did not have hardened seats, Cost me about $300. in labor for a valve job and I supplied the stem seats and the Hardened Valve seats cost be about $4.00 each. the Machine Shop said I would probably never have to worry about the valves again. Compression test Pre Teardown was 50-75,75-115,75-115,75-115 #'s 1234 Respectively, Cant wait to get it back on the Road and Save fuel, Decided to replace the Cracked Cooling Fan with an electric one saving 3#'s off of the Power Train. Will see what that adds up to. Thank you for the Share!!
Hell yea man!! I just got the 99 2.5. It was also ran with low oil/ thermostat sensor was bad. I flushed the radiator with the blue devil rust stuff but now I see that water pump, I ought to change mine haha. No doubt the valves need to be changed on mine since im gonna do the valve cover gasket. They were 4 bucks each on rock-auto when I looked. There was a huge clump of carbon sticking out from the egr valve into the intake manifold so I’m guessing it’s stuck open like you said …thanks for posting this video man 🤘🤘
Thank you for a great video . I'm impressed that you found the issue . I bought a 2000 Ford Ranger 3.0 Flexfuel Supercab 4X4 XLT for $760 . While driving the truck home , it has the same symptoms as yours . I put a scanner on it and 12 codes came up . Cylinders (4)-P304 (5)-P305 (6)-P306 not firing . Codes P0171 ,P0174 , IAC P1506 and other codes. I'm going to fix the issues relating to the codes and go from there . Thank you again for a great informative video.
The 2.5 liter was a short lived engine timing belt driven and non valve intruded , Ford went back with the 2.3 for later models. Have owned a 96 regular cab 2.3 and drove it to 250.000 miles no issues, ball joints control arm bushings , clutch brakes , shocks batteries tires and shocks. Had a 2000 4.0 extended cab auto, got wrecked. Needed ball joints at 125,000. Good truck. Have an 03' Edge regular cab 3.0 5 speed, needed ball joints , coil pack, radiator and water pump. clutch at 160,000. Fuel pump and of course tires, brakes, battery. Mobil 1 5w20 in all of them, never left me stranded any of them. Great trucks.
Good video, i have 96 Mazda labeled 2.3 engine, and get some improvement in lost performance only replacemente valves seals( whithout openning engine), oiled plugs was guide. Of course, new water pump, new EGR valve, New gas pump (its new because need sending unit and buy full assembly, not for fuel problems), trying to get fuel trims go to below 20%.fuel filter with almost 15k milles on it. Have purge solenoid fault but only represents 4% LTFT down. I think need internal repair after view this, first try doing compression test and leak test in each cilinder, because with smonke can't figure vaccum leaks, to reduce long term trims down. Don't know real engine milleage because fault odometter, i repaired to try get control on oil changes, but i think its nearly to 300k milles and maybe more. Thanks to share your experience with detail.
Excellent video! I have 2 97 rangers with the 2.3. Amazing engines they are. This is a testimony of how well made the 2.3/2.5 engines are. Even at 300k!
Mine has 107k miles and runs like shit, replaced spark plugs n wires redid some fuel lines. Kinda chugs at low rpm’s and vibrates and jerks a lot. Any idea what may be the issue? I’m thinking of doing coils and iac valve next
96 2.3 427,000 miles original drive train. 4 clutches but pretty much everything else replaced under the hood except it still has factory water pump and timing belt.
97 2.3 308,000 miles original drivetrain. 2 clutches, 2 timing belts, but still has the factory water pump and all the other stuff. Does not leak or burn oil, wish I could say the same about power steering fluid.
My 95 Ranger 2.3 with 145 k is doing the same thing bucking like a bronco. bogging, backfiring, rough idle, stalling. I hate to let you know I won't be ripping the motor out and that there are a few more parts that can cause these issues you did not mention. 1st is the Idle air control valve which sits right next to the EGR valve which I have long since replaced already. 2nd PCV Valve 3rd Automatic transmission vacuum modulator. I tried the temporary fix on mine to help diagnose the problem by removing the idle air control valve and placing tape over the holes. this did help and I had no issues driving 5 miles. however, after those 5 miles the tape was melted and no longer covering the holes so, I will be replacing the IACV tomorrow.
I am having some issues with bucking and bogging when cold, especially just after a heavy acceleration. I cant shift into 4th until it has warmed up. Now it has a few EGR codes including p1401. Any advice where to start?
@@bermchasin Change the EGR valve, EGR Solenoid. My problem ended up being my coil packs. Although I ended up changing the idle air control valve, EGR valve and EGR solenoid before finding out about the coil packs. The whole EGR system is the problem with these motors/trucks I installed a cold air intake and somehow while driving the Mass air flow plug broke. I couldn't get it repaired right away so I left it unplugged which by itself will make the truck not run but I learned that when I unplug the idle air control valve along with the MAF unplugged my truck ran just idled real low so I been driving for months now without either plugged in and my truck gets great gas mileage better then when the MAF and IAC were plugged in. They sell a delete or bypass for the EGR. You could also try cleaning or changing your MAF
Something people can do on a Ranger is to pull the air intake tube off and remove the plastic restrictor from the inside. This tube runs between your airbox to your throttle body. I mention this because I read about this, then did a "feel" test to check how much air the engine was pulling. Needless to say, removing the air restrictor dramatically improved air flow, and when I would rev my engine by hand, I could feel the engine pulling more air. Also, checking and cleaning both intake components and EGR components, along with replacing the nylon lines with actual rubber hose, can also reduce the likelihood of a bog-down and/or a stall condition. Lastly, the other thing you can check is your throttle cable stretch, as this will affect throttle response, and make it seem like you hesitate/bog down on acceleration, as well as being hesitant to go back to idle, due to throttle plate position being delayed. A simple fix for this is to take some zip ties and take up the slack of the throttle cable at the gas pedal, which will improve throttle response. Do this by pulling the pedal toward the driver's seat, and then looking at the top of the pedal, which should show you what your throttle cable stretch is. Wrap the zip ties around your throttle cable excess to take up the slack, and there ya go -- better throttle response. Edit: Also, on the '89-'97 2.3s, check your heater door in the intake system. On the pre-1995 2.3s, there is a tube that is supposed to go from your exhaust manifold to a plastic box beneath your airbox. This is something Ford did to warm up the engine quicker, and to improve fuel efficiency. How this works is, there is a vacuum line in the airbox attached to a bi-metal air temperature sensor (unlike the '95+ 2.3s, which have this in the intake tube). This vacuum sensor controls a vacuum door that, when open, feeds exhaust heat to the intake air, and when that air gets warm, closes the vacuum door, as the exhaust heat is not needed to reach operating temp quicker.
@@everydayirace : I gotta get my engine back together first, lol. My engine went down about a year, year and a half ago because a cam bearing seized, come to find out my bottom end needed to be rebuilt, after tearing it down. On the other hand, I'm planning on putting a 2.5 rotating assembly into a 2.3 block, since I have to rebuild it anyway, and the main bearing journals are the same size. As it is, I've never actually uploaded a video the entire time I've been on CZcams.
You better get it fixed and start uploading videos lol. I already have a 94 exhaust header on my engine with heat shield so that I can connect intake air warmer........I got the rest of the system as well......well I got 10 of those as a matter of fact 😂.
@@everydayirace : Lol - what do you need 10 of the pre-airbox intake ducting and vacuum doors for!? That seems just a bit excessive, ya ask me! 😂 As for the motor getting back together, its hard finding a 2.5 bottom end that's intact at a junkyard. The last one I found was seized and exploded internally, the #1 main bearing completely melted. Not only was that main journal just done, but the thrust surface on the crank was unsavable, with the end play at over 30 thousandths. The end play spec on a 2.5 is supposed to be between 3 and 6 thousandths.
I'd rather have it and not need it, than need it and not have it 😂. I see complete 2.5 engines 5 times a week, I pull heads from them and sell them on eBay 😂. Now 93-94 2.3l are hard to come by, they have certain parts that I can't keep in stock, they sell quick. I guess I'll start pulling crankshafts from 2.5 trucks as well 😂. I just picked up 2.5 duratec out of 09 escape, so looking for 01-03 ranger with bad 2.3l to drop that in....
Finally figured out why my ranger is so slow. Checked under the hood, and theres a sticker. I just checked it, and confirmed the issue. It said 2.3litre engine. Problem solved! For real though lol, thanks for the info!
As long as you got this far to all down take it down to the rest of the way new crank bearings in it cam bearings just rebuilt the whole thing when you get your head back in the engine back but all back together
I have 96 2.3 ranger, used seafoam and now on second tank of fuel, still jerking/bucking/sputtering/skipping under acceleration. I have replaced wires and plugs months ago and it's been driving fine up until I used the seafoam. Previous owner replaced fuel pump. I have also replaced water pump.
Update. Found my problem. Why it's was bogging down randomly. I was cleaning grounds and the flex ground from the firewall to the block was barley on so I cleaned it up and it got worse. So I ran a new ground to the block and it cleared it all up. Simple shitty flex ground lol
I have put in a new timing belt, new coil packs, wires, plugs, waterpump, starter, alternator, radiator, heater core, fuel filter, and the only time I have this spitting sputtering issue is in the winter months up here in Vermont where it gets really cold. Other than the cold the truck runs top notch but I want to fix this engine big down spitting sputtering thing and I don't really want to find another engine so I can tear into mine,,,,, but if thats the only other option then here we go
With that much I've dealt with them bearings are any good now packaged bearings how much water is on the bearings if it ate up that water pump what do you think it's going to do today in bearings what do you think it's going to do to the bearings on the inside that block
Could you have done a compression test if in the vehicle? My 1997 ford ranger with a replaced head with less than say 60K miles on it is sluggish on the takeoff and really has a hard time getting up to speed and gas mileage is sucking bigtime...I don't want to have to tear it all down again...would a compression test be the best place to start?
Hey man. Hoping to get your advice….I did a coolant flush and thermostat replacement. (97 ranger 2.3 manual). Only piece I replaced was t-stat and coolant sensor. Well my trucks starting like crap (runs fine) just startup. Keep popping check engine for the sensor. Have you experienced this before? How tight does it gotta go? Bottom the sensor out? I was not having these problems prior to flush. Thanks for help
P0117. I think they gave me the wrong sensor. The one just to the left of it I forget what it’s called….startup is fixed…now I’m getting wierd noises that wasn’t happening before….back to drawing board
Lean mixtures that was uncorrected for extended period of time burnt the valves. The valves didn't cause the issue it was aftermath of the original issue.
The cats are junk!! The one on my 95 Ranger 2.3 140K emptied out all of its contents into my muffler in turn blowing a big hole out the side. went to turn it in for scrap they looked at it and said there was nothing in there.
So was it the valves leaking why ot ran like crazy? Mine runs perty good but if you let it sit for a few hours and then get in and drive in about a 8th mile it'll bog out and stall. I can hit the clutch and Rev it to help get it to come out. If I stop it'll die and start back up perfectly fine and be good the rest of the time I'm driving. I've out new plugs and wires and coil packs new mass air low and new idle air control valve. I'm starting to get confused
I have the exact problem. I've changed numerous sensors and it would help a little. The purg flow senor was stuck open. You can unhook the vacuum line and block it which helps a little more. But I ended up blowing half the valve cover gasket off so when I was changing it I did the intake to to find out the intake was so gunked up that it completely blocked the egr port on the inside of the intake. I also cleaned the throttle body with a cleaner and a rag and air compresser. I've changed plugs and wires. Coil packs mass air flow iac valve tps sensor. Fuel pump fuel filter fuel pressure regulator. Heater valve. And until now it's doing really good still has a minor stall but no dieing stalls for about 5 seconds now and that's probly cause the purge valves deleted and the rear o2 is deleted till I replace them. I hope this helps. I have 95 ford ranger 2.3 2wd. 163k miles and when I got it everything was original including the spark plugs
Baltimore and clean them and put them back in the shiny and clean you know it's good make sure the edges all around underneath them valves are smooth no roughness no gaseous
Did you know you're supposed to change 81 in both you pulled out at Edge cuz they're designed to when you go in they tighten himself when you back them out you round them all around the threads off then you got to put Loctite on I don't back out don't back out by vibration
You don't have to take themselves out that's leaking around it cuz you got Carbon on the valve seats you got it they got a special powder valve powder and you got to use yourself like a sandblaster very fine sand
When you pull the boat for the bearings you make sure you have a carton or something where and Mark each one would have went to how to go back in don't mix number one books with number six bolts on a connecting rods we're on the bearings
@@jasoncramer5091 start the truck and one by one start plugging any possible external vacuum leaks, such as vacuum tree on the intake, brake booster hose, purge solenoid.....etc while watching long and short trims. If that doesn't work, look into pcv valve, make sure it's seated, even oil cap, then you can test maf, it could be under reporting and fuel pressure regulator. Extreme blow by can also cause your engine to run lean, just have to test each component until you find the problem.
Have a remanufactured 2.5 in my '99 and after about 30,000 miles, started runing like crap in the moring, now it has misfire codes for cylinder 3, and now cylinder 4. Cold compression test, so terrible not even worth posting the numbers. Once it is drivin about 10 minutes or so, all that shit goes away (not the codes or check engine light or the 14 mpg it gets) and it drives fine. Let it sit for a few hours, starts all over again. I know it's a valve problem I just don't believe they're recessed after 30,000 miles and I'm hoping they're just sticking. I also hope I stop lying to myself one day and just pull the head.
@@everydayirace nothing abnormal. PCV valve is a new motorcraft part. Hose is too. I have a vacuum gauge mounted on the A piller, which bounces like crazy around 10-16 on a cold start. Once it's drivin and warmed up, vacuum at idle is at a steady 20. It's just strage to me that the loss of compression a misfiring goes away after a few miles and comes back after it sits. That's what makes me think sticking valves. Also haven't read a lot of good things about engines from (go ahead and laugh but it was the only place i could find one instantly) Autozone. Idk what is entailed when the remanufacture them but i assumed valves and seats would be one thing. I took off the valve cover and popped out the follower on cylinder 3 and the lash adjuster was maxed out, even after it was sitting for 3 days, and I couldn't collapse it without using a vise. Weak springs? Idk. Ive gone thru everything on this engine, outside of pulling the head.
CHANGE THE CAPACITORS IN ECU!!!! You MUST replace the 47uf and 3.3uf blue capacitors in your ecu! If you are having any strange fuel issues, change the caps first! They are almost 30 years old, and always bad. The bad caps can cause issues with fuel pump and thusly cause intermittent running issues.
@@everydayirace i have a 1994 2.3 a i get detonation on acceleration ( load ) I read on forum a lot of people are having this same issue on this truck and on rangers of this vintage. Nobody seems to have found the proper issue hence my believe that those trucks have been running lean since day one. I do not consider nor want to put 91 octane gas in it as it was made to run on 87. Any input on that?
@@everydayirace turns out I had water in my ignition control module connector. Blew the water out and conpletely fixed my issue. I dont understand how water got there. The module with thermal paste bolted on the intake. Top plug full of water.
The culprit was leaking valves allowing air fuel mixture escaping combustion chamber into exhaust, then oxygen sensor reading wrong data, then sending that data to the ecu which tried to correct air fuel mixture in the wrong direction, further making things worse, since ecu ignores oxygen sensor reading at higher load and engine speed it made the problem intermittent.
Your head is off. Why do you care if they are all leaking. IF any leak then head job if the seats are bad. No point in moving forward at all. Then again, if the engine was running really badly it can build carbon on the seats. Therefore you may not actually have bad valve seating.You can see carbon over the pistons. that tells you that the carbon on the valves was caused by something and "might" have been able to burn it off if there was a different problem and it was repaired. For 300K that was not a lot of rust on the piston side. My 05 is getting 17mpg, I came here looking for the reason. At 90K I don't think I should have the same conditions as you are having. My coolant channels looked like brand new.
The reason that I care about finding the reason why the engine ran poor, is so I can fix the problem, and also remember for next car/truck that has similar symptoms, I call knowledge. Now my truck is running great and gets 25-32mpg with 2.5l. Now I can start to modify it to see if I can get 40mpg.
So basically if you have a spitting and sputtering issue and it's not your fuel pump or relay or your ignition coil packs, wires, plugs you know the basic shit you have to tear apart your engine to fix this issue!!????
There are actually a few parts EVERY DAY I RACE did not mention that can cause the same symptoms. Idle air control valve PCV valve Automatic transmission vacuum modulator
@@sotiredinmi3077 idle control valve is for idle only, it has nothing to do with high the engine runs under load, now bad icv gasket can leak and cause a vacuum leak that can create drivability issues, it can be checked in the scanner, it'll cause high short and long trim fuel trims just like any other vacuum leaks.
A compression test ,wet ,and dy would have given u the answer before you pulled it down ,and there's quite a bit of rust on number 1 ,,but not bad for 300 thous
Check out Ford Mustang Engine Teardown
czcams.com/video/mI3F0giX26U/video.html
Wow I finally understand what the inside of my engine looks like and a bunch of other things the repair manuals don’t show. I’m dyslexic so reading about things can be difficult but with pictures and videos I can understand what I’ve read more easily. Thank you.
Thank you for watching.
Im the same way. Videos or hands on
I am in the middle of rebuilding a 1994 2.3 with the Same Issues, Though the Water pump was still intact.
The exhaust Valves did not have hardened seats, Cost me about $300. in labor for a valve job and I supplied the stem seats and the Hardened Valve seats cost be about $4.00 each. the Machine Shop said I would probably never have to worry about the valves again. Compression test Pre Teardown was 50-75,75-115,75-115,75-115 #'s 1234 Respectively,
Cant wait to get it back on the Road and Save fuel, Decided to replace the Cracked Cooling Fan with an electric one saving 3#'s off of the Power Train. Will see what that adds up to.
Thank you for the Share!!
Hell yea man!! I just got the 99 2.5. It was also ran with low oil/ thermostat sensor was bad. I flushed the radiator with the blue devil rust stuff but now I see that water pump, I ought to change mine haha.
No doubt the valves need to be changed on mine since im gonna do the valve cover gasket. They were 4 bucks each on rock-auto when I looked. There was a huge clump of carbon sticking out from the egr valve into the intake manifold so I’m guessing it’s stuck open like you said …thanks for posting this video man 🤘🤘
Thank you for a great video .
I'm impressed that you found the issue . I bought a 2000 Ford Ranger 3.0 Flexfuel Supercab 4X4 XLT for $760 . While driving the truck home , it has the same symptoms as yours . I put a scanner on it and 12 codes came up . Cylinders (4)-P304 (5)-P305 (6)-P306 not firing . Codes P0171 ,P0174 , IAC P1506 and other codes. I'm going to fix the issues relating to the codes and go from there .
Thank you again for a great informative video.
You're welcome, I am glad you enjoyed it.
ignition cracks and misfires on those. take it off and look at the back
The 2.5 liter was a short lived engine timing belt driven and non valve intruded , Ford went back with the 2.3 for later models. Have owned a 96 regular cab 2.3 and drove it to 250.000 miles no issues, ball joints control arm bushings , clutch brakes , shocks batteries tires and shocks. Had a 2000 4.0 extended cab auto, got wrecked. Needed ball joints at 125,000. Good truck. Have an 03' Edge regular cab 3.0 5 speed, needed ball joints , coil pack, radiator and water pump. clutch at 160,000. Fuel pump and of course tires, brakes, battery. Mobil 1 5w20 in all of them, never left me stranded any of them. Great trucks.
2.5 sohc got replaced by 2.3 dohc which got replaced by 2.5 dohc 😆. Let's see if 2.3 ecoboost will get replaced by 2.5 ecoboost.
Good video, i have 96 Mazda labeled 2.3 engine, and get some improvement in lost performance only replacemente valves seals( whithout openning engine), oiled plugs was guide.
Of course, new water pump, new EGR valve, New gas pump (its new because need sending unit and buy full assembly, not for fuel problems), trying to get fuel trims go to below 20%.fuel filter with almost 15k milles on it.
Have purge solenoid fault but only represents 4% LTFT down.
I think need internal repair after view this, first try doing compression test and leak test in each cilinder, because with smonke can't figure vaccum leaks, to reduce long term trims down.
Don't know real engine milleage because fault odometter, i repaired to try get control on oil changes, but i think its nearly to 300k milles and maybe more.
Thanks to share your experience with detail.
Great video. Thanks.
Mine (1994 2.3L) is still running great with over 400K miles. Original engine and transmission, no issues.
I hear those lima engines are good
Excellent video! I have 2 97 rangers with the 2.3. Amazing engines they are. This is a testimony of how well made the 2.3/2.5 engines are. Even at 300k!
Mine has 468k and it’s a 2.5 Mazda pickup b2500 but it’s loosin power n shit
Mine has 107k miles and runs like shit, replaced spark plugs n wires redid some fuel lines. Kinda chugs at low rpm’s and vibrates and jerks a lot. Any idea what may be the issue? I’m thinking of doing coils and iac valve next
First step would be take compression test before taking the engine apart.
I totally agree.
That was my first thought 🤣
I owned 1986, 2000, And a 2001. Rangers, the 2001 was the 4.0 four wheel drive. they were all nice trucks. I Miss every one of them. Later
96 2.3 427,000 miles original drive train. 4 clutches but pretty much everything else replaced under the hood except it still has factory water pump and timing belt.
97 2.3 308,000 miles original drivetrain. 2 clutches, 2 timing belts, but still has the factory water pump and all the other stuff. Does not leak or burn oil, wish I could say the same about power steering fluid.
Excellent, great job Thanks
I have this exact motor in a 97 they're bulletproof. I was impressed too. And confused how they made them so well
Thanks great video.
My 95 Ranger 2.3 with 145 k is doing the same thing bucking like a bronco. bogging, backfiring, rough idle, stalling.
I hate to let you know I won't be ripping the motor out and that there are a few more parts that can cause these issues you did not mention.
1st is the Idle air control valve which sits right next to the EGR valve which I have long since replaced already.
2nd PCV Valve
3rd Automatic transmission vacuum modulator.
I tried the temporary fix on mine to help diagnose the problem by removing the idle air control valve and placing tape over the holes.
this did help and I had no issues driving 5 miles. however, after those 5 miles the tape was melted and no longer covering the holes
so, I will be replacing the IACV tomorrow.
That's a o2 sensor problem it sounds like
I am having some issues with bucking and bogging when cold, especially just after a heavy acceleration. I cant shift into 4th until it has warmed up. Now it has a few EGR codes including p1401. Any advice where to start?
@@bermchasin Change the EGR valve, EGR Solenoid.
My problem ended up being my coil packs.
Although I ended up changing the idle air control valve, EGR valve and EGR solenoid before finding out about the coil packs.
The whole EGR system is the problem with these motors/trucks
I installed a cold air intake and somehow while driving the Mass air flow plug broke.
I couldn't get it repaired right away so I left it unplugged which by itself will make the truck not run but I learned that when I unplug the idle air control valve along with the MAF unplugged my truck ran just idled real low so I been driving for months now without either plugged in and my truck gets great gas mileage better then when the MAF and IAC were plugged in.
They sell a delete or bypass for the EGR.
You could also try cleaning or changing your MAF
3rd - We don't have automatics so that's why it's not mentioned.
great video!
THANK YOU
Something people can do on a Ranger is to pull the air intake tube off and remove the plastic restrictor from the inside. This tube runs between your airbox to your throttle body. I mention this because I read about this, then did a "feel" test to check how much air the engine was pulling. Needless to say, removing the air restrictor dramatically improved air flow, and when I would rev my engine by hand, I could feel the engine pulling more air.
Also, checking and cleaning both intake components and EGR components, along with replacing the nylon lines with actual rubber hose, can also reduce the likelihood of a bog-down and/or a stall condition.
Lastly, the other thing you can check is your throttle cable stretch, as this will affect throttle response, and make it seem like you hesitate/bog down on acceleration, as well as being hesitant to go back to idle, due to throttle plate position being delayed. A simple fix for this is to take some zip ties and take up the slack of the throttle cable at the gas pedal, which will improve throttle response. Do this by pulling the pedal toward the driver's seat, and then looking at the top of the pedal, which should show you what your throttle cable stretch is. Wrap the zip ties around your throttle cable excess to take up the slack, and there ya go -- better throttle response.
Edit: Also, on the '89-'97 2.3s, check your heater door in the intake system. On the pre-1995 2.3s, there is a tube that is supposed to go from your exhaust manifold to a plastic box beneath your airbox. This is something Ford did to warm up the engine quicker, and to improve fuel efficiency. How this works is, there is a vacuum line in the airbox attached to a bi-metal air temperature sensor (unlike the '95+ 2.3s, which have this in the intake tube). This vacuum sensor controls a vacuum door that, when open, feeds exhaust heat to the intake air, and when that air gets warm, closes the vacuum door, as the exhaust heat is not needed to reach operating temp quicker.
You should make a video with that restrictor and without it, I'd surely watch it.
@@everydayirace : I gotta get my engine back together first, lol. My engine went down about a year, year and a half ago because a cam bearing seized, come to find out my bottom end needed to be rebuilt, after tearing it down.
On the other hand, I'm planning on putting a 2.5 rotating assembly into a 2.3 block, since I have to rebuild it anyway, and the main bearing journals are the same size.
As it is, I've never actually uploaded a video the entire time I've been on CZcams.
You better get it fixed and start uploading videos lol. I already have a 94 exhaust header on my engine with heat shield so that I can connect intake air warmer........I got the rest of the system as well......well I got 10 of those as a matter of fact 😂.
@@everydayirace : Lol - what do you need 10 of the pre-airbox intake ducting and vacuum doors for!? That seems just a bit excessive, ya ask me! 😂
As for the motor getting back together, its hard finding a 2.5 bottom end that's intact at a junkyard. The last one I found was seized and exploded internally, the #1 main bearing completely melted. Not only was that main journal just done, but the thrust surface on the crank was unsavable, with the end play at over 30 thousandths. The end play spec on a 2.5 is supposed to be between 3 and 6 thousandths.
I'd rather have it and not need it, than need it and not have it 😂.
I see complete 2.5 engines 5 times a week, I pull heads from them and sell them on eBay 😂. Now 93-94 2.3l are hard to come by, they have certain parts that I can't keep in stock, they sell quick. I guess I'll start pulling crankshafts from 2.5 trucks as well 😂.
I just picked up 2.5 duratec out of 09 escape, so looking for 01-03 ranger with bad 2.3l to drop that in....
Finally figured out why my ranger is so slow. Checked under the hood, and theres a sticker. I just checked it, and confirmed the issue. It said 2.3litre engine. Problem solved! For real though lol, thanks for the info!
They're not fast, but easy to work on and get decent gas mileage.
As long as you got this far to all down take it down to the rest of the way new crank bearings in it cam bearings just rebuilt the whole thing when you get your head back in the engine back but all back together
I have 96 2.3 ranger, used seafoam and now on second tank of fuel, still jerking/bucking/sputtering/skipping under acceleration. I have replaced wires and plugs months ago and it's been driving fine up until I used the seafoam. Previous owner replaced fuel pump. I have also replaced water pump.
Update. Found my problem. Why it's was bogging down randomly. I was cleaning grounds and the flex ground from the firewall to the block was barley on so I cleaned it up and it got worse. So I ran a new ground to the block and it cleared it all up. Simple shitty flex ground lol
Glad to hear you figured it out 👍, was it the ground that mounts to the bolt right by the ECU?
@@everydayirace flex ground on the firewall by the egr. Goes straight down under the intake by the oil pressure sensor
What is the recommended oil for the 2.5l can I use 10w 30
I have put in a new timing belt, new coil packs, wires, plugs, waterpump, starter, alternator, radiator, heater core, fuel filter, and the only time I have this spitting sputtering issue is in the winter months up here in Vermont where it gets really cold. Other than the cold the truck runs top notch but I want to fix this engine big down spitting sputtering thing and I don't really want to find another engine so I can tear into mine,,,,, but if thats the only other option then here we go
Did u do iac cleaning and adjust the anti diesel screw?
Check codes , could be air charge and coolant temperature sensors
With that much I've dealt with them bearings are any good now packaged bearings how much water is on the bearings if it ate up that water pump what do you think it's going to do today in bearings what do you think it's going to do to the bearings on the inside that block
😅 where is the fins on the water pump yeah you were blessed man it's a rebuilt
Could you have done a compression test if in the vehicle? My 1997 ford ranger with a replaced head with less than say 60K miles on it is sluggish on the takeoff and really has a hard time getting up to speed and gas mileage is sucking bigtime...I don't want to have to tear it all down again...would a compression test be the best place to start?
I'll be making a video about this exact topic in near future.
Compression can be done without removing the engine.
And when you get it back and put it all back together or run right
Check the pressure on the springs
Interesting. Wondering if some seafoam would help the valves at all or a similar treatment method.
Seafoam can't fix leaky valves and cracked exhaust seats.
Can carbon keep valves from fully seating though I think is what I'm wondering, didn't know if was actually cracked.
Hey man. Hoping to get your advice….I did a coolant flush and thermostat replacement. (97 ranger 2.3 manual). Only piece I replaced was t-stat and coolant sensor. Well my trucks starting like crap (runs fine) just startup. Keep popping check engine for the sensor. Have you experienced this before? How tight does it gotta go? Bottom the sensor out? I was not having these problems prior to flush. Thanks for help
What code are you getting?
P0117. I think they gave me the wrong sensor. The one just to the left of it I forget what it’s called….startup is fixed…now I’m getting wierd noises that wasn’t happening before….back to drawing board
Lean mixtures that was uncorrected for extended period of time burnt the valves. The valves didn't cause the issue it was aftermath of the original issue.
how do you fix?
My 86 Ford ranger 4+4 ,when I give it a gas it just dies down, sound like no gas,
Go to 7:00 to get to the point
My man 🤣
Sounded like it either jumped timing or the catalatic converter was clogged
It did, checked both and everything was good.
The cats are junk!!
The one on my 95 Ranger 2.3 140K emptied out all of its contents into my muffler in turn blowing a big hole out the side.
went to turn it in for scrap they looked at it and said there was nothing in there.
So what was the problem??
2 plugs per cylinder?
Mine is doing all the same things except its also smoking dark grey smoke and the exhaust is full of soot. Could it be the same thing?
Have to test components to find out what it is.
Pop a copy soft plugs out even a backwards by the transmission
dude holy crap imagine a steam engine with no paddle parts lol
Yeah, I know 😂
God dam! That turkey was over based!🥴
So was it the valves leaking why ot ran like crazy? Mine runs perty good but if you let it sit for a few hours and then get in and drive in about a 8th mile it'll bog out and stall. I can hit the clutch and Rev it to help get it to come out. If I stop it'll die and start back up perfectly fine and be good the rest of the time I'm driving. I've out new plugs and wires and coil packs new mass air low and new idle air control valve. I'm starting to get confused
Yes valves were leaking, that was the cause of bogging down and lack of power.
Have you figured it out yet?
I have the exact problem. I've changed numerous sensors and it would help a little. The purg flow senor was stuck open. You can unhook the vacuum line and block it which helps a little more. But I ended up blowing half the valve cover gasket off so when I was changing it I did the intake to to find out the intake was so gunked up that it completely blocked the egr port on the inside of the intake. I also cleaned the throttle body with a cleaner and a rag and air compresser. I've changed plugs and wires. Coil packs mass air flow iac valve tps sensor. Fuel pump fuel filter fuel pressure regulator. Heater valve. And until now it's doing really good still has a minor stall but no dieing stalls for about 5 seconds now and that's probly cause the purge valves deleted and the rear o2 is deleted till I replace them. I hope this helps. I have 95 ford ranger 2.3 2wd. 163k miles and when I got it everything was original including the spark plugs
And did pcv valve
Make sure each valve is seating
Anyone notice the valve seats on cylinder 4 are cracked between eachother?
Nope. Not that estudious 😂
Baltimore and clean them and put them back in the shiny and clean you know it's good make sure the edges all around underneath them valves are smooth no roughness no gaseous
Could you please get an engine stand....
Take the Pistons out and check the wrist pins in the Piston head
A weak spring on a valve stem could be bad too
Which engine do you like better 2.3 or 2.5?
2.5
Did you know you're supposed to change 81 in both you pulled out at Edge cuz they're designed to when you go in they tighten himself when you back them out you round them all around the threads off then you got to put Loctite on I don't back out don't back out by vibration
Love that waterpump!
Surprisingly it ran for a whole year while I was preparing for a 2.5 engine swap.
You don't have to take themselves out that's leaking around it cuz you got Carbon on the valve seats you got it they got a special powder valve powder and you got to use yourself like a sandblaster very fine sand
i have a 05 ranger with 3.0. and its doing this my ended up being a blow head gasket. :(
Better take the heads to machine shop to have them checked before you put them back on, or you'll be doing the job twice.
Cylinder number 1 is in the front of the motor not the back
That is what I thought as well...looked it up in my manual...#1 cyl is in the front of the engine...
What about the ICM? Did you try replacing that?
You can rebuild the whole engine... But if you don't replace that ICM your rebuild will still run like crap!
No, after compression test I knew problem was internal.
When you pull the boat for the bearings you make sure you have a carton or something where and Mark each one would have went to how to go back in don't mix number one books with number six bolts on a connecting rods we're on the bearings
I'd love to see the wear on the bottom end!
10-4.
Thats what she said .
What about ICM ?
Icm is part of the ECU, and it's rarely the problem.
Now question. Would this cause an engine to run lean? My 97 ranger which has the 2.3l is running lean but cannot find any vacuum leaks.
What makes you think it runs lean?
@@everydayirace very high positive fuel trims. Was at +25 LTFT but I recently changed my egr valve and now it's down to +16 LTFT
@@jasoncramer5091 is that at idle or while driving?
@@everydayirace at idle it will run way off. While driving the long term can come down to +10
@@jasoncramer5091 start the truck and one by one start plugging any possible external vacuum leaks, such as vacuum tree on the intake, brake booster hose, purge solenoid.....etc while watching long and short trims. If that doesn't work, look into pcv valve, make sure it's seated, even oil cap, then you can test maf, it could be under reporting and fuel pressure regulator. Extreme blow by can also cause your engine to run lean, just have to test each component until you find the problem.
Can't believe you pulled engine without compression test. And whom ever owned that truck didn't know anything about preventative maintenance!
I did a dry compression test, all cylinders were at 120ish psi.
Looks like you had a work going into the water Jacket Water Jack can go into the oil
so how much did it weigh?
That information is in 2.3 to 2.5 swap video.
That engine is worth rebuilding
So what was the problem?
Valves were leaking.
How many miles did the engine have?
Odometer was stuck at 300k miles, and replacing $3 odometer gear to fix odometer was way over previous owners pay grade lol, so unknown mileage.
Dead engine heads going to have to sit in the Acid Bath for overnight breakout oil to break up all that inside that block
Take it all the way down brother take it all the way down once you get done you'll have brand new engine
I was yelling at my phone, CHECK COMPRESSION, CHECK For catalytic converter plugged...... like you was going to hear that.......
I heard it 😆
You need to take that into a shop and have it dipped an acid take everything out of clean the inside of water jacket it's plugged up somewhere
Have a remanufactured 2.5 in my '99 and after about 30,000 miles, started runing like crap in the moring, now it has misfire codes for cylinder 3, and now cylinder 4.
Cold compression test, so terrible not even worth posting the numbers.
Once it is drivin about 10 minutes or so, all that shit goes away (not the codes or check engine light or the 14 mpg it gets) and it drives fine. Let it sit for a few hours, starts all over again.
I know it's a valve problem I just don't believe they're recessed after 30,000 miles and I'm hoping they're just sticking.
I also hope I stop lying to myself one day and just pull the head.
Does it have any blow by? Could also be a head gasket too. Valves should be fine at 30k miles.
@@everydayirace nothing abnormal. PCV valve is a new motorcraft part. Hose is too. I have a vacuum gauge mounted on the A piller, which bounces like crazy around 10-16 on a cold start. Once it's drivin and warmed up, vacuum at idle is at a steady 20. It's just strage to me that the loss of compression a misfiring goes away after a few miles and comes back after it sits. That's what makes me think sticking valves. Also haven't read a lot of good things about engines from (go ahead and laugh but it was the only place i could find one instantly) Autozone. Idk what is entailed when the remanufacture them but i assumed valves and seats would be one thing.
I took off the valve cover and popped out the follower on cylinder 3 and the lash adjuster was maxed out, even after it was sitting for 3 days, and I couldn't collapse it without using a vise. Weak springs? Idk.
Ive gone thru everything on this engine, outside of pulling the head.
@@everydayirace i do have a test kit for head gaskets but its never overheated, not losing any coolant, or oil.
@@everydayirace it also did the same thing as yours did in this video where it misfired so long it killed the catalytic converter.
@@dogsandwich77 what do the spark plugs look like?
CHANGE THE CAPACITORS IN ECU!!!!
You MUST replace the 47uf and 3.3uf blue capacitors in your ecu! If you are having any strange fuel issues, change the caps first! They are almost 30 years old, and always bad. The bad caps can cause issues with fuel pump and thusly cause intermittent running issues.
Got 30 spare ecus, everyone of them work 95-97 2.3 ranger.
Thanks
The oil around the valves head is blown by girls being blown by the valve that's not being closed
I'm starting to believe you got a valve problem
Number 1 is in the front of the motor
Has anyone ever had problems with the ignition control module?
Ya, i had 3 burnt capacitors in mine
Oil doesn't look to bad...Really? Compression test would have took 10 min, #4 is the closest to the front. #4 chamber looks wet.
How many miles on that motor
Odometer was broken and stuck at around 300k.
Im pretty sure these engines brand new came out of the factory running a litle lean
what makes you say that?
@@everydayirace i have a 1994 2.3 a i get detonation on acceleration ( load )
I read on forum a lot of people are having this same issue on this truck and on rangers of this vintage.
Nobody seems to have found the proper issue hence my believe that those trucks have been running lean since day one.
I do not consider nor want to put 91 octane gas in it as it was made to run on 87.
Any input on that?
@@mapletwig3501 just like with my truck, test components and you'll find a problem just like I did.
@@everydayirace turns out I had water in my ignition control module connector. Blew the water out and conpletely fixed my issue. I dont understand how water got there.
The module with thermal paste bolted on the intake. Top plug full of water.
@@mapletwig3501 : Condensation.
Basic physics: When the engine cools down, water will condensate overnight -- including in the top plug of the ICM.
Look what electronic electronics are doing to the block
Jake and have it by the flex
Won't you take the universal off the internet extension and just run straight a lot quicker than trying to get stabbed on the boat
I don’t understand how you’d have an intermittent problem if the culprit was low compression
The culprit was leaking valves allowing air fuel mixture escaping combustion chamber into exhaust, then oxygen sensor reading wrong data, then sending that data to the ecu which tried to correct air fuel mixture in the wrong direction, further making things worse, since ecu ignores oxygen sensor reading at higher load and engine speed it made the problem intermittent.
after you removed water pump it seemed like it had strong diarrhea
That's what Electronics electrolysis do into an engine that water pump
You'd be wise to take it to a machine shop and have him do them heads in the block
Yes will not even start now
Number 1cylinder is in the front not the back
One suggestion... get a tripod. Thanks.
Then I have the only one on the world with only 4 plugs
If it has a distributor, it has 4 spark plugs.
Otherwise, they have 2 coil packs with 8 spark plugs.
Why would you pull the whole engine just for a head job? Lets use this as lesson on how not to do diagnostics.
Ranger pump
Your head is off. Why do you care if they are all leaking. IF any leak then head job if the seats are bad. No point in moving forward at all.
Then again, if the engine was running really badly it can build carbon on the seats. Therefore you may not actually have bad valve seating.You can see carbon over the pistons. that tells you that the carbon on the valves was caused by something and "might" have been able to burn it off if there was a different problem and it was repaired. For 300K that was not a lot of rust on the piston side. My 05 is getting 17mpg, I came here looking for the reason. At 90K I don't think I should have the same conditions as you are having. My coolant channels looked like brand new.
The reason that I care about finding the reason why the engine ran poor, is so I can fix the problem, and also remember for next car/truck that has similar symptoms, I call knowledge.
Now my truck is running great and gets 25-32mpg with 2.5l.
Now I can start to modify it to see if I can get 40mpg.
So basically if you have a spitting and sputtering issue and it's not your fuel pump or relay or your ignition coil packs, wires, plugs you know the basic shit you have to tear apart your engine to fix this issue!!????
So basically do a compression test, that will tell you if engine has to come apart.
There are actually a few parts EVERY DAY I RACE did not mention that can cause the same symptoms.
Idle air control valve
PCV valve
Automatic transmission vacuum modulator
@@sotiredinmi3077 idle control valve is for idle only, it has nothing to do with high the engine runs under load, now bad icv gasket can leak and cause a vacuum leak that can create drivability issues, it can be checked in the scanner, it'll cause high short and long trim fuel trims just like any other vacuum leaks.
terrible video
A compression test ,wet ,and dy would have given u the answer before you pulled it down ,and there's quite a bit of rust on number 1 ,,but not bad for 300 thous
I agree.
Bowp bowp chick chicka chickaaahhh
Oh Yeah
A
So what was the problem??