Hilux 1kd-ftv Diesel using fuel He has reported doing short 10-15min trips it’s getting 12.4lt per 100. About normal for the set up I viewed Fourby4diesel
🤔 I got 800km to a 64L which I’m still wondering how the frig. 8L per 100 that’s which a bunch of weight and A/T, bullbar, roof racks 🤷🏻♂️. Though I do drive fairly fuel efficient eg coast to lights that are red instead of barrel down as quick as you can like most people only to have to stop. While I’m like go green 😅 so I don’t need to stop and use up my brake pads. Get 10l/100km in my JDM hiace that’s 4wd constant also 1KD roof rack bullbar 😅, mud tyres
Tyre diameter makes creates a far far bigger difference than tread pattern . Clean injectors , clean inlet/egr system . Many other brands donot replace DID injector lines at every injector removal . tappet clearances and compression test wet and dry injector leak back test , even new injectors can be faulty
Anthony: At 6:29 when you zoomed in-what is the other inline filter looking thing that is not the MAP (it has elbow connection) sensor filter. Does it need replacing? Cheers
I had it the other way. Manual was 8.5-9.5l per 100km in city. Loaded 3t work ute with canopy. Auto around 40-50% more. 2020 manual hilux. 780-800km out of the tank easy.
I had a K@N air filter on a previous vehicle, even if you reoiled sparingly I found thin oil film after the filter. Hence I assumed it would effect the MAF sensor. This, together with the absolute annoyance of trying to clean the filter as best as possible as well as the time spent made me unhappy with this filter. I then found out that the genuine filter not only saves time, is pristine, has a high quality rubber perimeter seal which limits the risk of filter bypass, but I was told there is some sort of spray on the paper which helps in stopping the ultra fine dust which is similar to the oil in the K&N in function. Armed with info I decided to bin the K&N and never go away from Genuine. Yes, I won’t even entertain alternative brands for this filter as I’m not prepared to take the risk. Other filters are different. I have a 2&3/4 mandrel bent exhaust by Beaudesert Exhausts (very first mod) and noticed the difference immediately in perceived performance. Since, many mods to the engine and the result is: 229.8 HP & 512 Nm from the wheels done many years ago, with this Dyno very recent. So obviously you don’t need a massive exhaust. I had a 3inch exhaust on a GU6 Patrol once and it was too large and the drone was irritating. Guys, learn from my experience and save money. I also believe the 3 inch was too tight to cool enough, I assume from this the surrounding area would be hotter. This is an assumption based on logic and the fact that it is very tight in places. I also had a bracket break. Sure it was fixed free of charge, but I had to travel 200 klms each way to get them to fix it. I used the opportunity to see Mum, so it was a good excuse:) I sure the extra exhaust weight contributed to this.
10ltrs is about the standard across many brands of 3.0ltr manual diesel of the same vintage . Achieved 3.0ltr toyo 60+ltrs /631kms every tank city driving ,,14ltrs/100km when towing camper h/way Ranger 3.0ltr manual 60+ltrs 520--650km 14/15/16 / 100km when towing city Extremely inconsistent fuel usage 1/ cleaned inlet system 2/ catch can 3/ new injectors 4/ egr delete 5/ properly fixed extremely bad air conditioner ... No thanks to Ford all this was done at 92,000km . 100km/h = 10ltrs per 100 ,,, 120km/hr = 12ltrs per 100km best by far NOW Then I have purchased 2 x Toyota vehicles since
Getting 15 L/100 is most amazing. Is your odometer out? Best to check by resetting and comparing to Google Maps (provided you choose that route of course). If you are getting this economy, don’t change a thing and keep your truck!
Good to listen to a qualified mechanic rather than a Social Media Mechanic.
Great video 👍🤙
In the wise words of James May....STANDARD!
I found my thermostat stuck open for 16l:100km. Changed that and it returned to 12l/100km .. 2010 hilux 3,0 D4D
I reckon it's good I have a 14 prado 9.3 around town but I m not in much traffic I use about 10 percent more in the country cruising at 110
🤔 I got 800km to a 64L which I’m still wondering how the frig. 8L per 100 that’s which a bunch of weight and A/T, bullbar, roof racks 🤷🏻♂️. Though I do drive fairly fuel efficient eg coast to lights that are red instead of barrel down as quick as you can like most people only to have to stop. While I’m like go green 😅 so I don’t need to stop and use up my brake pads. Get 10l/100km in my JDM hiace that’s 4wd constant also 1KD roof rack bullbar 😅, mud tyres
How accurate is the fuel economy shown in the console? Does it take into account the weight/lift/bigger tyres?
Cracked maf filter is probably the cause ecu won't know what actual boost its making. Turbo has probably suffered from it to
Maf doesn’t read boost pressure map does
More than likely the chip tune is causing the higher than normal fuel consumption.0
Tyre diameter makes creates a far far bigger difference than tread pattern .
Clean injectors , clean inlet/egr system .
Many other brands donot replace DID injector lines at every injector removal .
tappet clearances and compression test wet and dry
injector leak back test , even new injectors can be faulty
Dead right!
more weight, a chip, more air, more fuel more power, (even though sometimes might not result into more power). That how it works.
Anthony:
At 6:29 when you zoomed in-what is the other inline filter looking thing that is not the MAP (it has elbow connection) sensor filter.
Does it need replacing?
Cheers
Damper, E.G.R Vacuum
Part no 25693-64010
I see, so that filter is just for that part. Thank you. Have a great 2023
Back pressure coming out dip stick
I drive a work 2019 Hilux manual,it does 14.3 the other auto one does 10.5.and they not hammered at all....
I had it the other way. Manual was 8.5-9.5l per 100km in city. Loaded 3t work ute with canopy. Auto around 40-50% more. 2020 manual hilux. 780-800km out of the tank easy.
The module will make it run rich and soot up quicker
EGR is the worst! Got an ASX 2.2 DiD with almost 1cm of build up in the manifold at only 67,000KM. Already caused the MAP/Boost readings to play up
A proper Dyno tune you’ll get proper results and save on fuel economy towing chips are a no good
I use to get 800k to a tank. New motor. 500k a tank. Im completely miffed as to why
I’m getting 9L per 100km 2011 prado kdj150 standard tyres no bull bars . Is that good?
That’s very good
That’s good. I can only get that on my 2013 kd prado on highway drives. Normally i get 12L per 100km
I had a K@N air filter on a previous vehicle, even if you reoiled sparingly I found thin oil film after the filter.
Hence I assumed it would effect the MAF sensor.
This, together with the absolute annoyance of trying to clean the filter as best as possible as well as the time spent made me unhappy with this filter.
I then found out that the genuine filter not only saves time, is pristine, has a high quality rubber perimeter seal which limits the risk of filter bypass, but I was told there is some sort of spray on the paper which helps in stopping the ultra fine dust which is similar to the oil in the K&N in function.
Armed with info I decided to bin the K&N and never go away from Genuine.
Yes, I won’t even entertain alternative brands for this filter as I’m not prepared to take the risk.
Other filters are different.
I have a 2&3/4 mandrel bent exhaust by Beaudesert Exhausts (very first mod) and noticed the difference immediately in perceived performance.
Since, many mods to the engine and the result is:
229.8 HP & 512 Nm from the wheels done many years ago, with this Dyno very recent.
So obviously you don’t need a massive exhaust.
I had a 3inch exhaust on a GU6 Patrol once and it was too large and the drone was irritating.
Guys, learn from my experience and save money.
I also believe the 3 inch was too tight to cool enough, I assume from this the surrounding area would be hotter. This is an assumption based on logic and the fact that it is very tight in places.
I also had a bracket break. Sure it was fixed free of charge, but I had to travel 200 klms each way to get them to fix it.
I used the opportunity to see Mum, so it was a good excuse:)
I sure the extra exhaust weight contributed to this.
10ltrs is about the standard across many brands of 3.0ltr manual diesel of the same vintage .
Achieved 3.0ltr toyo 60+ltrs /631kms every tank city driving ,,14ltrs/100km when towing camper h/way
Ranger 3.0ltr manual 60+ltrs 520--650km 14/15/16 / 100km when towing city
Extremely inconsistent fuel usage 1/ cleaned inlet system 2/ catch can 3/ new injectors 4/ egr delete
5/ properly fixed extremely bad air conditioner ... No thanks to Ford all this was done at 92,000km .
100km/h = 10ltrs per 100 ,,, 120km/hr = 12ltrs per 100km best by far NOW
Then I have purchased 2 x Toyota vehicles since
I'm getting 9.5lt per 100km on my 76. Got 14.8 towing a 4.8tkn caravan.
I don't believe that for a second 🤣 you must be off somewhere in your calculations
I’ve got a hdj 79 land cruiser. 12 lt 100 km. Normal driving. 12.5 lt 100 km towing a 2.5 tonne boat
Getting 15 L/100 is most amazing.
Is your odometer out?
Best to check by resetting and comparing to Google Maps (provided you choose that route of course).
If you are getting this economy, don’t change a thing and keep your truck!
High fuel consumption is just about to cost about 5k
My car is not starting,no fuel entering the engine
I change injectors now the car give a hart start no not accelerate
A 2000 mod 🤔🤔 no mate
At one minute please