Dude, you are awesome. Thank you for taking the time to make and upload this. I'm awaiting the video's conclusion but it's looking promising, maybe I can get to using my HTR-6030 again!
Same thing, power down after about 2 seconds. I stubbornly had a pair of unpowered subwoofers in a trunk box connected to the right (high level, correct me if I'm wrong?) stereo channel, in a pinch. If I remember correctly it was 2 stages of malfunction. I think at first just the channel or two cut out and the receiver had partial function, soon after it exhibited the same power down you had here. That or it went right to powering down. Could you recommend places to get replacement electrical components like the one you needed specifically, other than ebay or amazon? Thank you. Our Canadian dollar is suffering.
Most likely thing is a bad amplifier output IC. They're kinda notorious failure items on these units' Higher Yamaha models, also later models all use discrete output transistors. You need to determine which one is bad. During that couple of second before the amp shuts off, a voltage reading can be taken at each of the white emitter resistors that sit in front of the IC's. The one that has the high DC voltage is the bad one. I have several on these type IC's on hand.
Thanks for posting this informative tutorial, while I am not attempting to repair it myself, thanks to your video I have enough understanding to be able to converse with the repair tech and feel comfortable that he will at least think I have some technical comprehension regarding this problem & fix. Excellent and comprehensive video, thanks again!
I used to work in a shop, mostly tv's, some recievers, I noticed that board attached to the transformer and know it has AC on it, but it's a good thing you told everyone here. I remember tv repair school, some guys were scared of the high voltage, well the most dangerous part is the AC.
OK, thanks. And thanks for watching. I have found that checking caps with a VOM is pretty iffy. Better in my experience to spot them by the way they behave - ripple, hum, signal problems, or in this case, loading down a voltage. Congrats on your 43 !
Nice video! Very good job. Unfortunatley I'm not a Multimeter Junkie and not an eletronic aficionados. I've got a Yamaha RX 595a RDS 5-channel receiver with the same issue. I'm looking for someone brillant like you to find the defected component and fix it. Anyway thanks for the hope you gave me.
Very good video. I just bought a Yamaha HTR-S5640 ( very simular to this amp ) for a really good price. This video will help me if something happens to my receiver, as these receivers do have common faults
Nice work. Mr. Zaharias... And I luv your video a lot. However, when you're going to fix another receiver, could you also point it out the problem in schematic diagram such as which components are the most failure one so that we can learn from your troubleshoot skills. Thx again for your helpful and great video. YOU'RE THE MAN....
It seems you probably have the service manual - have you tried putting it into "diagnostic" mode? Does the turn-on power relay ever click, however brief? Does the PRY line even try to go HIGH, even briefly?
Absolutely agree! I make it a point to try and fix stuff myself and it's always a good feeling when you succeed. It's also "sticking it to the man" because you're pretty much expected to buy new nowadays.
For the newbs (me), how exactly did you fix it? Did you replace the bad capacitor, or just reseat it like you mentioned sometimes works? Hopefully my dad can help me fix this but I'd like to know exactly which replacement specification is needed if my amp's problem is identical. Thank you!
Hi, great video. I have an HTR-5250 or RX-V596, both the A and B main speakers do not work. I tried to use a 2 channel amp for the preout and still no sound. How can I troubleshoot and repair this? The center and surround channels work fine.
Hi Mark, I have a HTR-5950 with the same problem as in this video. It is a 240v Australian model. I have not checked the basics yet but I was wondering what is the common problem they have? Thanks
+chevplane It does sound like a DC problem, meaning one or more channels has a DC offset with respect to ground. The first thing is to determine if only one channel is involved - or all channels, which would point to a power supply or bias voltage problem like in the 5460 video.
One more thing, in diagnostics mode should the reciever still be able to play sound to the speakers? When I tried to hear sound I only heard slight "humming" when listening closely to the speaker.
Do you know where I could find a schematic for my htr-6030? I understand I need it in order to troubleshoot and repair? Thanks very much in advance for any helpful information!
Regarding the -21.3 volts at IC372: if you are measuring this right at the IC and there is no output, the IC is bad, provided the output is not shorted to ground. These IC's are a fairly common failure item. Re: C171 with 46.1 volts. This is the AC side of the bridge. This is a measurement error and don't worry about it, your problem is not there. Concentrate on IC372. They are commonly available, look for a 7912 voltage regulator IC, like on eBay maybe.
Hi Mark, very nice and detailed video. thanks! i have HTR5440, it doesn't turn on at all (even not the display) only the "click" sound of the relay when pushing the power button. from measures at IC371-IC374 (Input 4) got 0.4-0.6v for each, also zero AC voltage measure at the transformer side. checked C167 on the power relay (main2) and got 0.4ohm is it OK? should i dis-solder it before measuring? .can you give me a direction on how to fix it please? what can it be?
So I should inspect ±B1, ±B2, ±B4, ±B5, ±12V for strange voltage? I don't know if you checked on a service manual for the 1600 but if you did could you possibly point me out on which card I should focus on? Thanks for you time to reply!
I am not a technician, however I am a decent tinkerer. I recently replaced the failing motors? in the intrument cluster of my Chevrolet Avalanche. I do have a multimeter and know how to use it. If you can point me to the location of the capacitor on my model or if I should try something else first? I viewed another video where unplugging the secondary power? allowed the reciever to stay powered on. The plug/socket is numbered cb403 and runs directly fdom the power supply. This is also my case.
Hello Mark. It's great that you share your expertise with us commoners. my 5460 powers up just fine but when the dsp is on there is a very noticeable ticking in the speakers. When I turn dsp off speakers sound perfect. Any idea where and what I should start to look for? Thanks again for all the help you have provided.
Well, I would suspect the DSP board - but it's possible a power supply issue might cause this. For example, ripple interfering with some clock or data pulse. So if you have a multimeter and scope - as they say - thou shalt check the power supplies!
Hi Mark, The measurement wasn't accurent, and that's why I couldn't see the correct resistance. Now the resistors are OK. Also, the primary winding resistance shows about 2 ohm. is it OK? Last week, the receiver turned on for few seconds and than back off. now it's not working at all. is it a blown amp channel?
Hi Mark, many thanks. Resistance emitter-collector is OK. But after checking base to base resistance (as you described at the video), found out that all R32,37,38,41,42,45,46,49 shorted.
It's less a matter of checking parts although that may well come. Initial testing will probably involve taking voltage readings. There is a built in diagnostic program that may help. If you press and hold the "Tone Control" and "Direct" buttons and press the Standby/On button, you will get a brief display on the front window which will say something like "PS PRT", DC PRT, etc. Do this and let me know what it says.
Hi Mark, I also have the same problem on a RX-565. Turns on for 3-5 sec then powers itself off. It started doing this when the metal base of my universal remote brushed against the casing of the receiver during a reprogram. There was a brief burning smell at the time but nothing visible that would help me locate the problem, I have opened it up to take a look around inside. Any hints as to what components may blow first when a short happens through the casing like this?
Hi Mark! Nice job on the yamaha. I could use some help on a similar issue with my V1600 which gives me PS-PRT that flickers between 117-120 and in DIAG mode it seems like PS1 is the only one having issues as DC and PS2 seem to be in between the ranges. It might be a long shot but any advice you could give would be great! Cheers!
nice vid i have a question for u i have a yamaha htr5140 and what does it meen when i turn the volume half way up and i hear a pulsing noise through the speakers with no music on?
Hi Mark, glad to know you and hope you can help me with a Yamaha RX-V3800 with the common problem, when turn on it shutdown (two/ three min. display than it's shutdown) do you think it's the same problem bet Cap.? do you know which printboard cause this!
Having the same issue with a HTR-5650 but the capacitor layout seems to be a bit different. With this unit, the relay simply clicks each time I hit the power button, but the unit will not stay on. I have reset the unit and removed the power control board (where the cord plugs into, and cord routes to the main transformer). Any chance you can point me in the right direction?
No power at all so i cannot do diagnostic mode. Getting frustrated finding the fault. Power relay doesn't turn on, PRY generates -220mV and rising. I replaced C3015 because it is a common fault and it's way out of capacitance. Supplies to microprocessor are normal but the return voltage from it like PDET and PSV are 0V. What I suspect is, something is holding processor from turning on for some faulty component in the DSP section. But I don't know where to start. What do you think?
Hi Mark, glad to find your video and I think you can help me with my Yamaha RX-V559. It doesn't turn on at all. Did a few test on the standby power S10 voltage is 10.5, reset voltage is 1.3v, PRY is 0V, +5M is just right.
I have a HTR-5250 with what appears to be the same problem (shutting off after a few seconds), except if I try enough times I can get it to turn on and work. Do you think it would be a capacitor still?
have a rx-v667, also have the manual but haven't been able to figure this out. it shuts down like the video, has PS PRT: 1L on the diagnostic screen. it has the 2 +5v's to the digital one card, they read 5.55. has the 3.3 to the button area. what do you think the problem is. trouble is the units you put up look nothing like the one i have. also i checked the output transistors, they are not reading shorted.
+jwfirebird just noticed in diagnostic mode the voltage kind of changes, 5.55 when the black relay that brings in the big tx is not on and 5.45 when on. and it clicks on and off every couple minutes or so
Hello Mark, I have a similar issue with RX-V420, the model looks quite similar to the one in your video. Now I have to confess I was messing with my receiver, trying to replace the relays for Omron G2R-2 with a pair of legs cut off, because I had dropouts and, well, now it won't power on. I installed the original relays, but no dice. After bypassing the protection in DIAG I see PS PRT 000 B, and I have a feeling the relays are kicking in a bit too soon and seemingly more of them at once than before... My electrical background is not very solid, but have a multimeter and checked the regulators. +12B is giving me 12,22, that's about the biggest deviation of them all. I know the description of the problem isn't very good, but if you have any pointers, I'd be very grateful.
I'm pretty sure the indicated source should play through, in certain diagnostic steps anyway. The default is DVD if I recall correctly when diagnostic mode starts. "Test all" gives a rushing white noise through all speakers.
I'd checked Q3006 voltage and nothing in it. tried to unsolder IC3006 and checked but seems ok. I replaced it anyway, S10 voltage went down to 3.28v as well as +5M to 2.8V. Is it fair IC300 supply is .8V? When tried to plug to AC, I get a reading from emitter and collector at least 1.2K.
Hey Mark, that is a great video. I have an HTR-5250 at is doing the same thing as this 5460 (turning off within seconds of hitting the power button). Would it likely be the same cap problem?
Hello Mark, I have a Yamaha HTR-5790 that I bought from a private seller . He turned it on AM/FM radio and showed me it works I loaded it in my vehicle and brought it home. When I got home I turned it on and it clicks display turns on for a second then another click and it turns off. When I hold A/B/C/D/E and Preset tuning right button and press the power button I get diagnostic error code PS PRT : 018 M and sometimes it will alternate with PS PRT : 017 M. Do you have any idea what the codes mean, I know its power supply / protection but the rest I can't figure out and of course Yamaha doesn't make circuit schematics readily available to the public
+Robert Sexton You can email me at: mark_zacharias@labolgcbs.net and reverse "labolgcbs" to read "sbcglobal" and I can send a service manual broke down to RAR chunks. You'd need WinRar or a similar program to re-assemble. You'll need to be able to read the schematic and use a digital multimeter.
Service manuals for Yamaha gear is all over the internet. Like these two: www.hifiengine.com/manual_library/yamaha.shtml?category=av-receiver elektrotanya.com/showresult
There is a DC offset at one or more amp channels. You need to measure at each of the white emitter resistors with respect to chassis ground. If only one channel shows a significant DC voltage, the output IC relating to that resistor is bad. If all channels show an offset, you might have an open (floating) ground, which could be caused by for example a burned foil run, which kind of makes sense given what you say happened.
If it clicks but you never see the display light up, you probably have a blown amp channel or maybe a bad power transformer. Are you a technician? What tests have you done?
I'm having and issue when standby power is turned on it just clicks from black solenoid and nothing happens on display. Any idea where I can start trouble shooting?
Hello Mark I found the issue with my 1600 and now it starts up and stays awake. The only issue left to deal with is that the sound seems to be busted aswell. I get 0 respons on the speakers when I try to listen to music or even try a TEST on the speakers.
Hi I have the 5440 and it doesn’t turn on it just clicks twice. You said that was a high current shutdown. So what would have to be replaced or repaired?
To start with, you should be able to measure DC offset at any of the individual amp channels, measuring from the bias test points to chassis ground. If only one channel has a DC offset, obviously that channel needs repair. If all channels have an offset - it points to a power supply issue - probably a regulator or some bias voltage source. Yamaha's have diagnostic modes described in the service manuals. Once you understand these, they help to point to the problem area, and if it's not a short circuit like a blown amp channel, there is a Protection Cancel function which allows a technician to troubleshoot DC related problems like power supply lines high, low, or missing, DC offset at one or more amp outputs, etc. There are no shortcuts though, actual troubleshooting is required.
Jeff Simpson - re: HTR-5960, one needs to check the basics first. The standby power circuit must be active. The receiver could be in a fast shut-down mode, particularly if there is a blown channel like in my RX-V661 video. Have you any technical skills? It night be possible to do a reset only if there are no hardware failures. Oh, BTW is yours a U.S. model? The 220/240 volt models have another common problem not seen in the U.S. models.
Hi Mark, I have a Yamaha RXV - 671, in which i recently repaired one of the channels. The amp powered on and worked for about 15 mins, then I heard a crackling noise and the unit started to smoke. The self-diagnostic mode gives me the message "PS PRT : 27 : L", now according to the service manual, that's a power supply error. From close observation of the manual I was able to see that the PS-PRT detect connector is on the main board. So with the few seconds that I was able turn it on, I was able to measure the +12V and -12V rail. From that I get -12.03V but +11.73V, is that 11.73V acceptable ? Also I should mention that i didn't measure tht +12V from the regulator itself, but from the connecting board to the HDMI board. Do you have any other suggestions, of things I could try? Everytime I try to turn it on, it smokes, so it's hard to test it. Thanks
Wow. If something is smoking there's a low resistance somewhere. Try measuring resistance from various points to ground. At the inputs and outputs of the regulators to ground. From the main B+ and B- to ground (the collectors of the output transistors to ground. Sometimes there is a bad mica insulator at one of the output transistors.
Ah. Well originally when I first replaced the output transistor on the blown channel it started to smoke. So maybe replacing the insulator, will make a difference ?
Well they're all connected together electrically, right? Probably a short at the one you replaced before. Replace that mica and clean the screw and everything else involved - the screw hole, everything. Even the transistor could have a carbon path through it's mounting hole - happened to me just last week. I thought I had the short cleared and it failed again after a few minutes. Replaced all the stuff again, including the transistor and it was good. A close look at the transistor shows burned carbon-like stuff at it's mounting hole.
+Kyle Auman The first thing is to determine if there is a blown channel. Are you a technical type person and know your way around a circuit using a multi-meter?
The first thing is to check for emitter-collector shorts on the output transistors for each channel. If they are OK, the receiver can be powered up in "protection cancel" mode to give you time to troubleshoot the various voltage regulators and to see if there is a DC offset at the amp output and if any such offset is only on one channel or on all channels, which usually indicates a power supply issue, like a bad voltage regulator IC.
Yes its a V565, I have plenty of soldering experience but no formal training. If I had a few parts that I could check, I would be confident in de-soldering to check.
Check the continuity of the main power transformer primary. If that is OK (a low ohms reading) then you might have a blown amp channel. Check resistance emitter-collector on each output transistor. You will probably find that two of them are shorted.
hi mark, i got a HTR-3066 240v model. cant power up and did some test. found that the small transformer is giving 17.8v instead of the 9v required.. also the standby voltage is at zero. checked the npn transistor and it is fine but no voltage at the base. thank you
Don't worry about the 18 volts ac at the transformer. For now concentrate on the voltages at CB151 - the 9.3v S9, and the AC det. Watch out for a bad Q1501. Sometimes they get a bad base-emitter junction. See if you can goose it ON with the diode function of your multimeter.
have checked the BE, CE & BC using diode function and the reading shown that the junction are working. just that there is no voltage from the base or emitter.
Have you tried the diagnostic function? Press and hold the INFO and TONE CONTROL buttons and press the POWER button. The unit may wake up briefly and give an error message on the display such as DC PRT or PS PRT or the like. Be ready to write down the message and get back to me. If the unit does turn on this way, you can make it stay on for troubleshooting by continuing to hold the INFO and TONE CONTROL buttons until the SLEEP indicator flashes.
Hi Mark, tried and the unit power back into life showing "I PROTECT". went through the diagnostic list for each PCB and all turn out fine. Have put the unit back and working great. Thank you for the great tip.. : >
OK if you had a current protect (I Protect) and yet you got the message in Diag means the short is no longer there. Most likely thing is a problem with speaker wires. Recheck them so that no wires can touch together. Remove or redo any splices. Sounds like you got very lucky. Could have blown an amp channel. Also DO NOT run more than one speaker off each amp channel.
hi, sorry for the confusion. The scenario is: receiver can't turn on, no display. only the "click" noise of the relay when pushing the power button. I've started my measures from the beginning. problem 1: found 46.1v on c171 (MAIN2 PCB) after the little transformer near the AC cable instead of 12.8v. problem 2: there is no -12v at (INPUT4) problem 3: at IC372 (INPUT4) there is -21.3v at the input but nothing at the output. what should i do next?
You need to check the voltage at Q3006 on the standby power board (operation 4 board). I suspect that voltage is low, therefore the power detect line is being held low. Maybe a bad opto-isolator IC300 would cause this.
I checked "Power 5" and IC4-5-6 seems to be good and Q13-14-15 seems to do fine. But Q14 seems to get way hotter than Q14 even though they are the same part component. By the way Main (1) PCB pg.85 has a connector with says on board B+ / G / B- that got no cable attached to it.. I measured from -B pin and I get the value as expected.
Recent model Yamaha receivers incorporate a "protection cancel" option when starting in Diagnostic mode. Works for most voltage related problems, not for high-current shutdown like a blown channel.
hi mark . have a Yamaha htr 5950. it was given to me . it randomly shuts off . it will work play then just shut off . any ideas. I figure once it heats up something is expanding and looseing or brakeing contact, im assuming. a cap possible expanding ? I don't know . let it set it will work again then back to the same . shuts off.
+mike heller I would start by checking DC voltages at the voltage regulators. Also, a DC issue with any one channel could cause a shutdown. Are you a technician?
Hey mark. Are you located close to New York? My receiver hasn't been used for a while and it was working then when I turned it off and went to turn it back on again it just goes on for a second and turns back off
Mike Dagro Well, I can almost always fix those - but considering it's age, no HDMI, and shipping costs etc, maybe not so feasible economically. Repair probably 100-150 plus freight...
Hi Mark I have Kenwood krf-v7030d I turn it on (no sound it's in mute bottons are feedback after 3 sec it turn off and the standby indicator is blinks. nothing is connect to the reciver (speakers or inputs) Can you please advice how to repair Thanks Shimi
This usually happens when two speaker wires are touching each other or when a speaker wire is touching the metal on the receiver back itself. It,s the receivers way of protecting itself. Just skin back the wire about one half inch, not any longer.
Hi Mark I have a similar problem with my YAMAHA HRT 5460. it was working OK when I stored it few years ago, but when I tried to turn it on ,but it turns off immediately. (the LCD screen is ON for les the a second) I was checking the DC V on the checking points . it seems to be on only when I turn the receiver On.(regularly no DC power) its look like the main transformer is not getting any power .but when I turn it on I can see it does for a second . so I believe its a problem in the power board.(it gets the 220V and the fuse is OK.) but I don’t know how to go on from hear. thanks for any help. suj
I have a ht-5650 that turns off after one second. Had one bad regulator, replaced it and it still doesn't work. All the voltages in the power supply and amp section are correct. Any ideas? It almost appears that the problem may be in the micro, but I have no idea.
Hi! I have started to look at some of your videos and fint them realy interesting! I would say that you have one of the best channels of repairing Electronics that i found this far! Have you ever thougt of doing a more educational video . I have looked at Electronic repair school who made a video where he arranged faults on a laptop. Do you Think that it´s possible to arange different faults on an amplifier (with a light bulb current limiter for not totaly distroying the demo unit) and go realy basic and show real time meassurments and explain with schematics how you can meassure the components and what components that likly would burn open or goes short. I would realy like to see that video ;) (I realy think that if you invest money in a better camera that your views would go up greatly) Thanks /Andreas
HA! That was my Yamaha rep, from a training video, I was playing with the speed and adding increasing amouts of echo. I decided my videos and some others might be encouraging dummies to try to fix their own, when they are really intended for other techs and knowledgeable amateurs.
It is funny how exactly 5 years later I found this video )) (It is Feb. 5 2016 today) Mark, I have gotten the same problem with my Yamaha HTR-3063 It won't turn on. It was once before, but later on it turned on. The second time, however, it turned off and never came back on again. had some feelings that the reason is voltage fluctuation because I moved to Germany and I think their 110V is not actually 110V. It is getting power because I hear that click and my iPod is charging off of that dock. But main power is down. What would your suggestion be in this case?
+US Soldier Be prepared to write down an error code such as DC PRT 013L or some such. Press and hold "tone Control" and "Straight" and while still holding them, press the "Power" button. There may be an error code displayed briefly. If so, make note of it and report back to me. To repair the fault you will probably need at least a multimeter and the ability to read a schematic. There is a chance the main power transformer is bad. This can be determined using the resistance function of the multimeter.
+Mark Zacharias I did as you said and what it showed me is NO PROTECTION and after this ANALOG BYPASS words with SLEEP red light blinking. No code were indicated
I ment that Q14 gets hotter than Q13 which is the exact same part ID but delivers another voltage level. On Q14 you burn your finger if you hold it there but the other doesn't get close to that.
12voltvids Been doing them as a warranty servicer for about 18 years. Getting fairly good at it by now. Helps to have the "Inside Baseball" on these. Tech support etc.
Mark Zacharias I lasted for 20 years. Got out of the repair business 12 years ago and got a real job at a large telecom. Still do the odd repair as people keep bringing me stuff. The new stuff is getting so complex these days. Just had a Yamaha htr 3065 in, totally dead. Standby voltage is low. When I unplugged the YE122 board, the standby 12 returned. Suspect a short somewhere on YE122, but owner didn't want to spend more than 40.00 to fix it, so I walked away.
A shorted capacitor is zero ohms (8 ohms is considered a short given a digital multimeter). An open capacitor is infinity on the ohm meter. Another way to check a capacitor is to set the ohm meter to 10K or higher, connect the black ohm meter lead to - on the capacitor lead and the red ohm meter lead to the + lead on the capacitor. A good capacitor will show a swing near zero then slowly move toward infinity. (Charge/Discharge). I bad capacitor will show zero ohms (shorted).
Output transistors Q17A and Q17C are bad, probably drivers Q8 and Q9 also. Once those transistors are disconnected, check Q2 and R32, R34 and R37. Also check the emitter resistor R55. It's unlikely at this point that the main power transformer is bad, but do check it's primary winding FIRST. No point in replacing any other parts if the transformer is bad.
Im having the same problem with a yamaha htr-6130 and it seems like its a problem with the power button if i hold it out after powering on it stays on longer
The "collector" side of IC300 should be LOW in normal operation. I don't find IC3006. Did you mean Q3006? S10 and +5M should not be getting loaded down.If you are taking resistance readings while the unit is plugged in, you will probably get erroneous readings.
Ok Mark, here are the actual voltages from S10 is now 3.3V, +5M is 2.3V. But when I unplug from the DSP board S10 is normal. Tried testing Still not getting any voltage from PDET. D1, D2. D3 has 2.3 too. The rest are all the same as IC! on DSP board.
The transformer connections are to be considered dangerous any time the mains cord is connected to a power outlet. It is true that in this unit the transformer is not energized until the turn-on relay is engaged, but there could still be potential between any transformer primary connection and a nearby earth ground. The relay of course was energized during the voltage readings I mentioned, and so the transformer primary connections, which are exposed, were indeed quite dangerous.
Can you please tell me I have a Yamaha RX V371 and I am not able to obtain a service manual, I checked everywhere online with no luck. It comes on for 2 secs and then shuts off after 2 secs. After 3 tries, it goes into protect mode and I also wondered if you know anything about this model. Could you please send a reply back. Thanks and I enjoy watching your informative channel and I watched many videos but not of my own Yamaha model.
Frank Serrano Most likely one of the output IC's is bad - putting out a DC offset. If you have a multimeter and know how to use it, you can measure from each of the emitter resistors with respect to ground before the receiver shuts down. Whichever one has the large DC level points to the bad output chip.
Mark Zacharias Thank you for your quick response i already order the part thank you again for your videos and sharing your skill's with people like my self
Hi there, I did the repair but was unsuccessful. It still doesn't turn on and when I press power, straight and tone simultaneously it shows bypass analog and flashes sleep. I replaced both ic chips to be on the safe side since they were pretty cheap on ebay but that didn't repair the problem. Any suggestions where else I should try and see where the problem is? Thanks.
Frank Serrano Did you measure the DC offset at the amp channels? Turn it on normally and let it fail, then start diagnostics and write down the initial display - DC PRT 32 or whatever it says. Let me know.
I have a htr-5640 on my bench with the same issue. Is there a known fault pattern with this model by any chance? I can't find anything online and I'm hoping it's something simple.
One would just have to start by taking appropriate voltage and possibly resistance readings. Check output transistors for shorts. If no shorts, check for DC offset(s). If DC on one channel, fix that channel. If on all channels - a power supply issue of some sort.
Mark Zacharias silly question. Are the voltages present when the receiver is in standby? Or is there something I need to do to override the protection and force it to stay on?
Protection cancel mode: HTR-5640 Press and hold both "6-ch input" and "stereo". While holding these two, press the "Standby/Power ON button and hold all three until the "sleep" indicator flashes on the display. I can provide a PDF service manual if you give me your e-mail and you'll need WinRAR or something like that to re-assemble because it's probably too big an attachment for email.
Hello i have yamaha rxv-520rds similar to htr 5450, the power turns off after 1 or 2 seconds. I runed the diagnostics with fm/am and input + stby keys , it display analog bypass, it seems to be a power suply problem the code generated its PS PRT ...(i have 12v ,-12v, 5v +25, -25, the power suply for the amplifier is ( aprox +50 0 -50) and so on , all seems to be ok ...i`m stuck ... please HELP !!!
catalindinamita Well, you need to check for DC offset at one or more amp channels. There are a couple of important voltages generated on the Operation (3) board which might cause this. There is a 13 volt line and a roughly -51 volt line I would check. The Operation 3 board is hard to get to though - like the one in the video.
Hello Mark. My Yamaha RX-V730 wont turn on, just one click and thats it. Power the unit to AC. push the power buton but nothing hepen just one click...thats may be a Cap ,or something over ac/dc regulator board? Some rezistor on AC board or eve worse? you say bad ic chanell or bad power supply? i dont listen music on them loud and properly venilated...Nothing put on the top of them...Just plug the PC over the CD input by 3.5 to cinch interconet.
hi , i have a rx v420 that shuts down in the same way as this video and i found that all the power transistors show 38v on the base . I removed the board that seems to look exactly like yours . but found that all the electrolytics were checked and` none found to be short circuit . i downloaded the service manual and it shows this as operation no3 board but could not find a circuit diagram to show me further details about this board. do you have any more suggestions for me regards andrew
@@mdzacharias the 5v regulator has no output. The input is short circuit to ground . I removed the regulator and filter capacitor and they are not short circuit and then took 1 leg off of the series feed resistor . looks like a problem on the circuit board mounted to the transformer .
@@mdzacharias the capacitor and bridge are ok . the original regulator did seem to work when I connected a test lamp but does something strange with no load seems to have no output . I have replaced the 5v regulator and now have 5v ok . the receiver still shuts down though. can you provide me with further details about that q664 transistor you mentioned is that a small transistor or a regulator and what voltages should I have on the 3 leads
that 5v voltage regulator is not connected to the chassis ground as the other 3 are test this to the ground of the centre pin of the 5v voltage regulator .
Dude, you are awesome. Thank you for taking the time to make and upload this. I'm awaiting the video's conclusion but it's looking promising, maybe I can get to using my HTR-6030 again!
So what's going on with the 6030?
Same thing, power down after about 2 seconds. I stubbornly had a pair of unpowered subwoofers in a trunk box connected to the right (high level, correct me if I'm wrong?) stereo channel, in a pinch. If I remember correctly it was 2 stages of malfunction. I think at first just the channel or two cut out and the receiver had partial function, soon after it exhibited the same power down you had here. That or it went right to powering down. Could you recommend places to get replacement electrical components like the one you needed specifically, other than ebay or amazon? Thank you. Our Canadian dollar is suffering.
Most likely thing is a bad amplifier output IC. They're kinda notorious failure items on these units' Higher Yamaha models, also later models all use discrete output transistors. You need to determine which one is bad. During that couple of second before the amp shuts off, a voltage reading can be taken at each of the white emitter resistors that sit in front of the IC's. The one that has the high DC voltage is the bad one. I have several on these type IC's on hand.
I like the way you repair these fine machines...Looking forward to more videos!
Thanks for posting this informative tutorial, while I am not attempting to repair it myself, thanks to your video I have enough understanding to be able to converse with the repair tech and feel comfortable that he will at least think I have some technical comprehension regarding this problem & fix. Excellent and comprehensive video, thanks again!
I used to work in a shop, mostly tv's, some recievers, I noticed that board attached to the transformer and know it has AC on it, but it's a good thing you told everyone here.
I remember tv repair school, some guys were scared of the high voltage, well the most dangerous part is the AC.
OK, thanks. And thanks for watching. I have found that checking caps with a VOM is pretty iffy. Better in my experience to spot them by the way they behave - ripple, hum, signal problems, or in this case, loading down a voltage. Congrats on your 43 !
Nice video! Very good job. Unfortunatley I'm not a Multimeter Junkie and not an eletronic aficionados. I've got a Yamaha RX 595a RDS 5-channel receiver with the same issue. I'm looking for someone brillant like you to find the defected component and fix it. Anyway thanks for the hope you gave me.
Very good video. I just bought a Yamaha HTR-S5640 ( very simular to this amp ) for a really good price. This video will help me if something happens to my receiver, as these receivers do have common faults
Thanks a lot for your fast reply I'll check some Cap. and measure the Voltage Reg.
I hope mine is as easy as you made it look. Thank you
Nice work. Mr. Zaharias... And I luv your video a lot. However, when you're going to fix another receiver, could you also point it out the problem in schematic diagram such as which components are the most failure one so that we can learn from your troubleshoot skills. Thx again for your helpful and great video. YOU'RE THE MAN....
Thx. Mark ! I will check the board.
It seems you probably have the service manual - have you tried putting it into "diagnostic" mode? Does the turn-on power relay ever click, however brief? Does the PRY line even try to go HIGH, even briefly?
Thanks for this vid, I was able to fix my RX-V630 by replacing a single 7805.
Glad that worked out for you. There's a kind of a special kind of satisfaction we get from troubleshooting successes, yes?
Absolutely agree! I make it a point to try and fix stuff myself and it's always a good feeling when you succeed. It's also "sticking it to the man" because you're pretty much expected to buy new nowadays.
I'm retiring soon and won't be doing this professionally anymore - maybe a little part-time. Gonna miss it.
Mark Zacharias Are you still gonna do videos you think?
Not sure at this point. Don't have any kind of bench set up at home. Hopefully I will, but it's a really small place and there's the wife to consider.
For the newbs (me), how exactly did you fix it? Did you replace the bad capacitor, or just reseat it like you mentioned sometimes works? Hopefully my dad can help me fix this but I'd like to know exactly which replacement specification is needed if my amp's problem is identical. Thank you!
Naw, the capacitor was replaced. This time it really was a bad capacitor. Lots of times not.
Thanks for the quick response Mark. I have an PDF service manual that doesn't have the schematics. Do you know of a place to get them?
That's a new one, but I'd be interested to know if it does it in the Direct mode. Most likely it involves the DSP section.
Hi, great video. I have an HTR-5250 or RX-V596, both the A and B main speakers do not work. I tried to use a 2 channel amp for the preout and still no sound. How can I troubleshoot and repair this? The center and surround channels work fine.
Hi Mark, I have a HTR-5950 with the same problem as in this video. It is a 240v Australian model. I have not checked the basics yet but I was wondering what is the common problem they have? Thanks
+chevplane It does sound like a DC problem, meaning one or more channels has a DC offset with respect to ground. The first thing is to determine if only one channel is involved - or all channels, which would point to a power supply or bias voltage problem like in the 5460 video.
Hi, Mark. What about if no sound on any input/output (no indicators on display FL, FR, SLR...etc). Is the problem on hdmi board
One more thing, in diagnostics mode should the reciever still be able to play sound to the speakers? When I tried to hear sound I only heard slight "humming" when listening closely to the speaker.
Do you know where I could find a schematic for my htr-6030? I understand I need it in order to troubleshoot and repair? Thanks very much in advance for any helpful information!
elektrotanya.com/showresult?what=yamaha%20htr-6030&kategoria=&kat2=all
Have you checked the main power transformer?
Regarding the -21.3 volts at IC372: if you are measuring this right at the IC and there is no output, the IC is bad, provided the output is not shorted to ground. These IC's are a fairly common failure item.
Re: C171 with 46.1 volts. This is the AC side of the bridge. This is a measurement error and don't worry about it, your problem is not there. Concentrate on IC372. They are commonly available, look for a 7912 voltage regulator IC, like on eBay maybe.
They are on the "Power 5" board. Schematic on page 105, circuit board on page 89.
Hi Mark, very nice and detailed video. thanks!
i have HTR5440, it doesn't turn on at all (even not the display) only the "click" sound of the relay when pushing the power button. from measures at IC371-IC374 (Input 4) got 0.4-0.6v for each, also zero AC voltage measure at the transformer side. checked C167 on the power relay (main2) and got 0.4ohm is it OK? should i dis-solder it before measuring? .can you give me a direction on how to fix it please? what can it be?
So I should inspect ±B1, ±B2, ±B4, ±B5, ±12V for strange voltage? I don't know if you checked on a service manual for the 1600 but if you did could you possibly point me out on which card I should focus on?
Thanks for you time to reply!
I am not a technician, however I am a decent tinkerer. I recently replaced the failing motors? in the intrument cluster of my Chevrolet Avalanche. I do have a multimeter and know how to use it. If you can point me to the location of the capacitor on my model or if I should try something else first? I viewed another video where unplugging the secondary power? allowed the reciever to stay powered on. The plug/socket is numbered cb403 and runs directly fdom the power supply. This is also my case.
Hello Mark. It's great that you share your expertise with us commoners. my 5460 powers up just fine but when the dsp is on there is a very noticeable ticking in the speakers. When I turn dsp off speakers sound perfect. Any idea where and what I should start to look for? Thanks again for all the help you have provided.
Well, I would suspect the DSP board - but it's possible a power supply issue might cause this. For example, ripple interfering with some clock or data pulse. So if you have a multimeter and scope - as they say - thou shalt check the power supplies!
Hi Mark,
The measurement wasn't accurent, and that's why I couldn't see the correct resistance. Now the resistors are OK. Also, the primary winding resistance shows about 2 ohm. is it OK?
Last week, the receiver turned on for few seconds and than back off. now it's not working at all.
is it a blown amp channel?
Hi Mark, many thanks.
Resistance emitter-collector is OK. But after checking base to base resistance (as you described at the video), found out that all R32,37,38,41,42,45,46,49 shorted.
It's less a matter of checking parts although that may well come. Initial testing will probably involve taking voltage readings. There is a built in diagnostic program that may help. If you press and hold the "Tone Control" and "Direct" buttons and press the Standby/On button, you will get a brief display on the front window which will say something like "PS PRT", DC PRT, etc. Do this and let me know what it says.
Hi Mark, I also have the same problem on a RX-565. Turns on for 3-5 sec then powers itself off. It started doing this when the metal base of my universal remote brushed against the casing of the receiver during a reprogram. There was a brief burning smell at the time but nothing visible that would help me locate the problem, I have opened it up to take a look around inside. Any hints as to what components may blow first when a short happens through the casing like this?
Hi Mark!
Nice job on the yamaha. I could use some help on a similar issue with my V1600 which gives me PS-PRT that flickers between 117-120 and in DIAG mode it seems like PS1 is the only one having issues as DC and PS2 seem to be in between the ranges.
It might be a long shot but any advice you could give would be great!
Cheers!
nice vid i have a question for u i have a yamaha htr5140 and what does it meen when i turn the volume half way up and i hear a pulsing noise through the speakers with no music on?
Do you have a multimeter or any test equipment?
Hi Mark, glad to know you and hope you can help me with a Yamaha RX-V3800 with the common problem, when turn on it shutdown (two/ three min. display than it's shutdown) do you think it's the same problem bet Cap.? do you know which printboard cause this!
Having the same issue with a HTR-5650 but the capacitor layout seems to be a bit different. With this unit, the relay simply clicks each time I hit the power button, but the unit will not stay on. I have reset the unit and removed the power control board (where the cord plugs into, and cord routes to the main transformer). Any chance you can point me in the right direction?
No power at all so i cannot do diagnostic mode. Getting frustrated finding the fault. Power relay doesn't turn on, PRY generates -220mV and rising. I replaced C3015 because it is a common fault and it's way out of capacitance. Supplies to microprocessor are normal but the return voltage from it like PDET and PSV are 0V. What I suspect is, something is holding processor from turning on for some faulty component in the DSP section. But I don't know where to start. What do you think?
Hi Mark, glad to find your video and I think you can help me with my Yamaha RX-V559. It doesn't turn on at all. Did a few test on the standby power S10 voltage is 10.5, reset voltage is 1.3v, PRY is 0V, +5M is just right.
I have a HTR-5250 with what appears to be the same problem (shutting off after a few seconds), except if I try enough times I can get it to turn on and work. Do you think it would be a capacitor still?
Same problem
have a rx-v667, also have the manual but haven't been able to figure this out. it shuts down like the video, has PS PRT: 1L on the diagnostic screen. it has the 2 +5v's to the digital one card, they read 5.55. has the 3.3 to the button area. what do you think the problem is. trouble is the units you put up look nothing like the one i have. also i checked the output transistors, they are not reading shorted.
+jwfirebird just noticed in diagnostic mode the voltage kind of changes, 5.55 when the black relay that brings in the big tx is not on and 5.45 when on. and it clicks on and off every couple minutes or so
What would a "PVR PTR 59" mean in a diagnosis mode of YAMAHA htr ?
Especially PTR 59.
Hello Mark,
I have a similar issue with RX-V420, the model looks quite similar to the one in your video. Now I have to confess I was messing with my receiver, trying to replace the relays for Omron G2R-2 with a pair of legs cut off, because I had dropouts and, well, now it won't power on. I installed the original relays, but no dice. After bypassing the protection in DIAG I see PS PRT 000 B, and I have a feeling the relays are kicking in a bit too soon and seemingly more of them at once than before... My electrical background is not very solid, but have a multimeter and checked the regulators. +12B is giving me 12,22, that's about the biggest deviation of them all. I know the description of the problem isn't very good, but if you have any pointers, I'd be very grateful.
Stefan Simon Maybe check the 1 ohm resistors on main(5) board, and the regulated supplies on the input (4) board.
I'm pretty sure the indicated source should play through, in certain diagnostic steps anyway. The default is DVD if I recall correctly when diagnostic mode starts. "Test all" gives a rushing white noise through all speakers.
I'd checked Q3006 voltage and nothing in it. tried to unsolder IC3006 and checked but seems ok. I replaced it anyway, S10 voltage went down to 3.28v as well as +5M to 2.8V. Is it fair IC300 supply is .8V? When tried to plug to AC, I get a reading from emitter and collector at least 1.2K.
@SuperVega12
i have the same problem with mine .i hear my FM music crossing and when it get hoter the noise realy get loud
It's possible, but more likely a bad voltage regulator or a low frequency rolloff cap on one channel or another causing a DC offset.
Hey Mark, that is a great video. I have an HTR-5250 at is doing the same thing as this 5460 (turning off within seconds of hitting the power button). Would it likely be the same cap problem?
Same problem
Just have to start at the beginning. The most likely culprits reside in the amp section and power supply. Are you a technician?
Hello Mark, I have a Yamaha HTR-5790 that I bought from a private seller . He turned it on AM/FM radio and showed me it works I loaded it in my vehicle and brought it home. When I got home I turned it on and it clicks display turns on for a second then another click and it turns off. When I hold A/B/C/D/E and Preset tuning right button and press the power button I get diagnostic error code PS PRT : 018 M and sometimes it will alternate with PS PRT : 017 M. Do you have any idea what the codes mean, I know its power supply / protection but the rest I can't figure out and of course Yamaha doesn't make circuit schematics readily available to the public
+Robert Sexton The value is HIGH. Maybe a bad negative regulator, like the 7912 (IC24). Maybe just a bad solder connection in the regulator area.
Do you have a schematic for this model
+Robert Sexton You can email me at: mark_zacharias@labolgcbs.net and reverse "labolgcbs" to read "sbcglobal" and I can send a service manual broke down to RAR chunks. You'd need WinRar or a similar program to re-assemble. You'll need to be able to read the schematic and use a digital multimeter.
HELLO MARK,I HAVE THE SAME RECIEVER,WHEN I START NO LIGHTS AND CLICK OFF,ANY IDEAS? I WISH I CAN FIND THE SCHEMATIC,I USE TO WORK ON THIS ON THE 80S,
Service manuals for Yamaha gear is all over the internet. Like these two: www.hifiengine.com/manual_library/yamaha.shtml?category=av-receiver
elektrotanya.com/showresult
There is a DC offset at one or more amp channels. You need to measure at each of the white emitter resistors with respect to chassis ground. If only one channel shows a significant DC voltage, the output IC relating to that resistor is bad. If all channels show an offset, you might have an open (floating) ground, which could be caused by for example a burned foil run, which kind of makes sense given what you say happened.
If it clicks but you never see the display light up, you probably have a blown amp channel or maybe a bad power transformer. Are you a technician? What tests have you done?
I'm having and issue when standby power is turned on it just clicks from black solenoid and nothing happens on display. Any idea where I can start trouble shooting?
Hello Mark I found the issue with my 1600 and now it starts up and stays awake. The only issue left to deal with is that the sound seems to be busted aswell. I get 0 respons on the speakers when I try to listen to music or even try a TEST on the speakers.
Hi I have the 5440 and it doesn’t turn on it just clicks twice. You said that was a high current shutdown. So what would have to be replaced or repaired?
To start with, you should be able to measure DC offset at any of the individual amp channels, measuring from the bias test points to chassis ground. If only one channel has a DC offset, obviously that channel needs repair. If all channels have an offset - it points to a power supply issue - probably a regulator or some bias voltage source. Yamaha's have diagnostic modes described in the service manuals. Once you understand these, they help to point to the problem area, and if it's not a short circuit like a blown amp channel, there is a Protection Cancel function which allows a technician to troubleshoot DC related problems like power supply lines high, low, or missing, DC offset at one or more amp outputs, etc. There are no shortcuts though, actual troubleshooting is required.
Jeff Simpson - re: HTR-5960, one needs to check the basics first. The standby power circuit must be active. The receiver could be in a fast shut-down mode, particularly if there is a blown channel like in my RX-V661 video. Have you any technical skills? It night be possible to do a reset only if there are no hardware failures. Oh, BTW is yours a U.S. model? The 220/240 volt models have another common problem not seen in the U.S. models.
yes it's a USA model i checked the fuses none where blown have a voltage meter no visual caps blown
Hi Mark,
I have a Yamaha RXV - 671, in which i recently repaired one of the channels. The amp powered on and worked for about 15 mins, then I heard a crackling noise and the unit started to smoke. The self-diagnostic mode gives me the message "PS PRT : 27 : L", now according to the service manual, that's a power supply error. From close observation of the manual I was able to see that the PS-PRT detect connector is on the main board. So with the few seconds that I was able turn it on, I was able to measure the +12V and -12V rail. From that I get -12.03V but +11.73V, is that 11.73V acceptable ? Also I should mention that i didn't measure tht +12V from the regulator itself, but from the connecting board to the HDMI board. Do you have any other suggestions, of things I could try? Everytime I try to turn it on, it smokes, so it's hard to test it.
Thanks
Wow. If something is smoking there's a low resistance somewhere. Try measuring resistance from various points to ground. At the inputs and outputs of the regulators to ground. From the main B+ and B- to ground (the collectors of the output transistors to ground. Sometimes there is a bad mica insulator at one of the output transistors.
Ah. Well originally when I first replaced the output transistor on the blown channel it started to smoke. So maybe replacing the insulator, will make a difference ?
Yeah - I'd seriously recheck the insulation at those output transistors.
Ok so every NPN output transistor's collector is shorted to ground. What could be the reason for that?
Well they're all connected together electrically, right? Probably a short at the one you replaced before. Replace that mica and clean the screw and everything else involved - the screw hole, everything. Even the transistor could have a carbon path through it's mounting hole - happened to me just last week. I thought I had the short cleared and it failed again after a few minutes. Replaced all the stuff again, including the transistor and it was good. A close look at the transistor shows burned carbon-like stuff at it's mounting hole.
Hello Mark, I have an HTR-5640 with the exact same problem as the receiver in the video. Do you have any guidance for that particular model?
+Kyle Auman The first thing is to determine if there is a blown channel. Are you a technical type person and know your way around a circuit using a multi-meter?
For the most part. I've mostly just done work in computers and not so much audio equipment
The first thing is to check for emitter-collector shorts on the output transistors for each channel. If they are OK, the receiver can be powered up in "protection cancel" mode to give you time to troubleshoot the various voltage regulators and to see if there is a DC offset at the amp output and if any such offset is only on one channel or on all channels, which usually indicates a power supply issue, like a bad voltage regulator IC.
Yes its a V565, I have plenty of soldering experience but no formal training. If I had a few parts that I could check, I would be confident in de-soldering to check.
I have htr-5540 where the left main channel is weaker than the right (actually pretty faint). I've ruled out the speaker, any idea what that might be?
Try a full reset. Other than that, would Just need to troubleshoot.
Check the continuity of the main power transformer primary. If that is OK (a low ohms reading) then you might have a blown amp channel. Check resistance emitter-collector on each output transistor. You will probably find that two of them are shorted.
hi mark, i got a HTR-3066 240v model. cant power up and did some test. found that the small transformer is giving 17.8v instead of the 9v required.. also the standby voltage is at zero. checked the npn transistor and it is fine but no voltage at the base. thank you
Don't worry about the 18 volts ac at the transformer. For now concentrate on the voltages at CB151 - the 9.3v S9, and the AC det. Watch out for a bad Q1501. Sometimes they get a bad base-emitter junction. See if you can goose it ON with the diode function of your multimeter.
have checked the BE, CE & BC using diode function and the reading shown that the junction are working. just that there is no voltage from the base or emitter.
Have you tried the diagnostic function? Press and hold the INFO and TONE CONTROL buttons and press the POWER button. The unit may wake up briefly and give an error message on the display such as DC PRT or PS PRT or the like. Be ready to write down the message and get back to me. If the unit does turn on this way, you can make it stay on for troubleshooting by continuing to hold the INFO and TONE CONTROL buttons until the SLEEP indicator flashes.
Hi Mark, tried and the unit power back into life showing "I PROTECT". went through the diagnostic list for each PCB and all turn out fine. Have put the unit back and working great.
Thank you for the great tip.. : >
OK if you had a current protect (I Protect) and yet you got the message in Diag means the short is no longer there. Most likely thing is a problem with speaker wires. Recheck them so that no wires can touch together. Remove or redo any splices. Sounds like you got very lucky. Could have blown an amp channel.
Also DO NOT run more than one speaker off each amp channel.
What should the cost for that run on average round about I am having this problem an wife is tired of it sitting around
hi, sorry for the confusion.
The scenario is: receiver can't turn on, no display. only the "click" noise of the relay when pushing the power button.
I've started my measures from the beginning.
problem 1: found 46.1v on c171 (MAIN2 PCB) after the little transformer near the AC cable instead of 12.8v.
problem 2: there is no -12v at (INPUT4)
problem 3: at IC372 (INPUT4) there is -21.3v at the input but nothing at the output.
what should i do next?
You need to check the voltage at Q3006 on the standby power board (operation 4 board). I suspect that voltage is low, therefore the power detect line is being held low. Maybe a bad opto-isolator IC300 would cause this.
I checked "Power 5" and IC4-5-6 seems to be good and Q13-14-15 seems to do fine. But Q14 seems to get way hotter than Q14 even though they are the same part component.
By the way Main (1) PCB pg.85 has a connector with says on board B+ / G / B- that got no cable attached to it.. I measured from -B pin and I get the value as expected.
I am having this problem on an HTR-5650. Is the cause possibly the same? How similar is the repair in this video to my own reciveer?
Good one
The Stevens family should be paying you for their product placement (the Spangles cup in the background).
HI
How were u able get the voltage readings if the amp shutdown?
Recent model Yamaha receivers incorporate a "protection cancel" option when starting in Diagnostic mode. Works for most voltage related problems, not for high-current shutdown like a blown channel.
hi mark . have a Yamaha htr 5950. it was given to me . it randomly shuts off . it will work play then just shut off . any ideas. I figure once it heats up something is expanding and looseing or brakeing contact, im assuming. a cap possible expanding ? I don't know . let it set it will work again then back to the same . shuts off.
+mike heller I would start by checking DC voltages at the voltage regulators. Also, a DC issue with any one channel could cause a shutdown. Are you a technician?
+Mark Zacharias no but ive bin repairing and doing this type of stuff for 30 years.
+mike heller I may be able to help. You can email me direct at mark_zacharias@labolgcbs.net and reverse "labolgcbs" to read "sbcglobal" .
Hard to know for sure, maybe around 100.00 plus freight.
Hey mark. Are you located close to New York? My receiver hasn't been used for a while and it was working then when I turned it off and went to turn it back on again it just goes on for a second and turns back off
Hi. I'm in Wichita, KS.What kind of receiver?
Same one in the video
Actually it's 5640
Mike Dagro Well, I can almost always fix those - but considering it's age, no HDMI, and shipping costs etc, maybe not so feasible economically. Repair probably 100-150 plus freight...
Yea that's ok. If you were in New York I may have considered it but probably just better to buy a new one. Thanks for your help!
Hi Mark
I have Kenwood krf-v7030d I turn it on (no sound it's in mute bottons are feedback after 3 sec it turn off and the standby indicator is blinks. nothing is connect to the reciver (speakers or inputs)
Can you please advice how to repair
Thanks
Shimi
This usually happens when two speaker wires are touching each other or when a speaker wire is touching the metal on the receiver back itself. It,s the receivers way of protecting itself. Just skin back the wire about one half inch, not any longer.
great video ! I have a HTR-5960 and it just does not power on any help would be great, should havew never sold my vintage Hamon Kardon Douh !
BTW this was an RX-V565, right?
Hi Mark
I have a similar problem with my YAMAHA HRT 5460. it was working OK when I stored it few years ago, but when I tried to turn it on ,but it turns off immediately.
(the LCD screen is ON for les the a second)
I was checking the DC V on the checking points . it seems to be on only when I turn the receiver On.(regularly no DC power)
its look like the main transformer is not getting any power .but when I turn it on I can see it does for a second .
so I believe its a problem in the power board.(it gets the 220V and the fuse is OK.)
but I don’t know how to go on from hear.
thanks for any help.
suj
Your message got into a spam folder. Most likely a blown amp channel. Are you a technician? Have access to a multimeter?
I have a ht-5650 that turns off after one second. Had one bad regulator, replaced it and it still doesn't work. All the voltages in the power supply and amp section are correct. Any ideas? It almost appears that the problem may be in the micro, but I have no idea.
Have you checked the error codes?
PS PRT 0% D
Hi! I have started to look at some of your videos and fint them realy interesting! I would say that you have one of the best channels of repairing Electronics that i found this far!
Have you ever thougt of doing a more educational video . I have looked at Electronic repair school who made a video where he arranged faults on a laptop. Do you Think that it´s possible to arange different faults on an amplifier (with a light bulb current limiter for not totaly distroying the demo unit) and go realy basic and show real time meassurments and explain with schematics how you can meassure the components and what components that likly would burn open or goes short. I would realy like to see that video ;)
(I realy think that if you invest money in a better camera that your views would go up greatly)
Thanks /Andreas
HA! That was my Yamaha rep, from a training video, I was playing with the speed and adding increasing amouts of echo. I decided my videos and some others might be encouraging dummies to try to fix their own, when they are really intended for other techs and knowledgeable amateurs.
I'm using a yamaha htr-5640, is there anyway I can get my hands on the schematic? (same problem)
HiFi Engine. Registering is free. www.hifiengine.com/manual_library/yamaha/htr-5640.shtml
It is funny how exactly 5 years later I found this video )) (It is Feb. 5 2016 today)
Mark, I have gotten the same problem with my Yamaha HTR-3063
It won't turn on. It was once before, but later on it turned on. The second time, however, it turned off and never came back on again. had some feelings that the reason is voltage fluctuation because I moved to Germany and I think their 110V is not actually 110V. It is getting power because I hear that click and my iPod is charging off of that dock. But main power is down.
What would your suggestion be in this case?
+US Soldier Be prepared to write down an error code such as DC PRT 013L or some such. Press and hold "tone Control" and "Straight" and while still holding them, press the "Power" button. There may be an error code displayed briefly. If so, make note of it and report back to me. To repair the fault you will probably need at least a multimeter and the ability to read a schematic. There is a chance the main power transformer is bad. This can be determined using the resistance function of the multimeter.
Mark Zacharias thank you
+Mark Zacharias I did as you said and what it showed me is NO PROTECTION and after this ANALOG BYPASS words with SLEEP red light blinking. No code were indicated
+US Soldier Did it stay on after that?
Mark Zacharias no
I ment that Q14 gets hotter than Q13 which is the exact same part ID but delivers another voltage level.
On Q14 you burn your finger if you hold it there but the other doesn't get close to that.
Don't you just love those Yamahas!
I used to cringe every time one came into the shop.
12voltvids Been doing them as a warranty servicer for about 18 years. Getting fairly good at it by now. Helps to have the "Inside Baseball" on these. Tech support etc.
Mark Zacharias
I lasted for 20 years.
Got out of the repair business 12 years ago and got a real job at a large telecom.
Still do the odd repair as people keep bringing me stuff. The new stuff is getting so complex these days. Just had a Yamaha htr 3065 in, totally dead. Standby voltage is low. When I unplugged the YE122 board, the standby 12 returned. Suspect a short somewhere on YE122, but owner didn't want to spend more than 40.00 to fix it, so I walked away.
A shorted capacitor is zero ohms (8 ohms is considered a short given a digital multimeter). An open capacitor is infinity on the ohm meter. Another way to check a capacitor is to set the ohm meter to 10K or higher, connect the black ohm meter lead to - on the capacitor lead and the red ohm meter lead to the + lead on the capacitor. A good capacitor will show a swing near zero then slowly move toward infinity. (Charge/Discharge). I bad capacitor will show zero ohms (shorted).
new catch phrase, there she is boys
Output transistors Q17A and Q17C are bad, probably drivers Q8 and Q9 also. Once those transistors are disconnected, check Q2 and R32, R34 and R37. Also check the emitter resistor R55. It's unlikely at this point that the main power transformer is bad, but do check it's primary winding FIRST. No point in replacing any other parts if the transformer is bad.
Im having the same problem with a yamaha htr-6130 and it seems like its a problem with the power button if i hold it out after powering on it stays on longer
The button has nothing to do with it. Probably a bad amplifier IC or voltage regulator IC.
The "collector" side of IC300 should be LOW in normal operation.
I don't find IC3006. Did you mean Q3006? S10 and +5M should not be getting loaded down.If you are taking resistance readings while the unit is plugged in, you will probably get erroneous readings.
my yamaha htr 5930 subwoofer output is very low sound what is the problem?
Ok Mark, here are the actual voltages from S10 is now 3.3V, +5M is 2.3V. But when I unplug from the DSP board S10 is normal. Tried testing Still not getting any voltage from PDET. D1, D2. D3 has 2.3 too. The rest are all the same as IC! on DSP board.
the transformer connections remains dangerous even when it has already connected to the wall ????
The transformer connections are to be considered dangerous any time the mains cord is connected to a power outlet. It is true that in this unit the transformer is not energized until the turn-on relay is engaged, but there could still be potential between any transformer primary connection and a nearby earth ground. The relay of course was energized during the voltage readings I mentioned, and so the transformer primary connections, which are exposed, were indeed quite dangerous.
Can you please tell me I have a Yamaha RX V371 and I am not able to obtain a service manual, I checked everywhere online with no luck. It comes on for 2 secs and then shuts off after 2 secs. After 3 tries, it goes into protect mode and I also wondered if you know anything about this model. Could you please send a reply back. Thanks and I enjoy watching your informative channel and I watched many videos but not of my own Yamaha model.
Frank Serrano Most likely one of the output IC's is bad - putting out a DC offset. If you have a multimeter and know how to use it, you can measure from each of the emitter resistors with respect to ground before the receiver shuts down. Whichever one has the large DC level points to the bad output chip.
Mark Zacharias Thank you for your quick response i already order the part thank you again for your videos and sharing your skill's with people like my self
Please see below for new comment thanks.
Hi there, I did the repair but was unsuccessful. It still doesn't turn on and when I press power, straight and tone simultaneously it shows bypass analog and flashes sleep. I replaced both ic chips to be on the safe side since they were pretty cheap on ebay but that didn't repair the problem. Any suggestions where else I should try and see where the problem is? Thanks.
Frank Serrano
Did you measure the DC offset at the amp channels? Turn it on normally and let it fail, then start diagnostics and write down the initial display - DC PRT 32 or whatever it says. Let me know.
Hi, I'v same issue HTR-6090, how can i find bad cap or others ?
Completely different model. Your problem is very likely NOT caused by any capacitor. You need a technician to diagnose and repair.
I have a htr-5640 on my bench with the same issue. Is there a known fault pattern with this model by any chance? I can't find anything online and I'm hoping it's something simple.
One would just have to start by taking appropriate voltage and possibly resistance readings. Check output transistors for shorts. If no shorts, check for DC offset(s). If DC on one channel, fix that channel. If on all channels - a power supply issue of some sort.
Mark Zacharias silly question. Are the voltages present when the receiver is in standby? Or is there something I need to do to override the protection and force it to stay on?
Protection cancel mode: HTR-5640
Press and hold both "6-ch input" and "stereo".
While holding these two, press the "Standby/Power ON button and hold all three until the "sleep" indicator flashes on the display. I can provide a PDF service manual if you give me your e-mail and you'll need WinRAR or something like that to re-assemble because it's probably too big an attachment for email.
Mark Zacharias that would be greatly appreciated. It's my username @ yahoo.com
The CZcams user name I see?
Hello i have yamaha rxv-520rds similar to htr 5450, the power turns off after 1 or 2 seconds. I runed the diagnostics with fm/am and input + stby keys , it display analog bypass, it seems to be a power suply problem the code generated its PS PRT ...(i have 12v ,-12v, 5v +25, -25, the power suply for the amplifier is ( aprox +50 0 -50) and so on , all seems to be ok ...i`m stuck ... please HELP !!!
catalindinamita Well, you need to check for DC offset at one or more amp channels. There are a couple of important voltages generated on the Operation (3) board which might cause this. There is a 13 volt line and a roughly -51 volt line I would check. The Operation 3 board is hard to get to though - like the one in the video.
Hello Mark. My Yamaha RX-V730 wont turn on, just one click and thats it. Power the unit to AC. push the power buton but nothing hepen just one click...thats may be a Cap ,or something over ac/dc regulator board? Some rezistor on AC board or eve worse? you say bad ic chanell or bad power supply? i dont listen music on them loud and properly venilated...Nothing put on the top of them...Just plug the PC over the CD input by 3.5 to cinch interconet.
hi , i have a rx v420 that shuts down in the same way as this video and i found that all the power transistors show 38v on the base . I removed the board that seems to look exactly like yours . but found that all the electrolytics were checked and` none found to be short circuit .
i downloaded the service manual and it shows this as operation no3 board but could not find a circuit diagram to show me further details about this board.
do you have any more suggestions for me
regards andrew
Check the output of the voltage regulators on the Input (4) board, and the 13V output of Q664 on the Operation (3) board.
@@mdzacharias the 5v regulator has no output.
The input is short circuit to ground . I removed the regulator and filter capacitor and they are not short circuit and then took 1 leg off of the series feed resistor . looks like a problem on the circuit board mounted to the transformer .
@@vk3jcm I suspect the capacitor C410 on the input (5) board or the bridge rectifier D403 associated with it. Probably the cap however.
@@mdzacharias the capacitor and bridge are ok . the original regulator did seem to work when I connected a test lamp but does something strange with no load seems to have no output . I have replaced the 5v regulator and now have 5v ok .
the receiver still shuts down though. can you provide me with further details about that q664 transistor you mentioned
is that a small transistor or a regulator and what voltages should I have on the 3 leads
that 5v voltage regulator is not connected to the chassis ground as the other 3 are test this to the ground of the centre pin of the 5v voltage regulator .