CB1100 - what does it take to maintain?
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- čas přidán 20. 07. 2024
- What's involved in self servicing the CB1100? Current owners already know but if you're thinking about buying one here's a few things to consider if you want to service it yourself.
If you're on the fence about getting a CB1100 do it now, Euro 5 emission regulations have just killed them off in Europe! I concentrate here on the 2017 and onwards EX model but the same goes for the RS (bar the tubeless tyres). - Auta a dopravní prostředky
I have recently bought a cb1100 2016. What a really good bike, so smooth, and comfortable to ride, great on corners. I am 74 years old and i find it really easy to ride.
It is pretty laid back and easy to ride alright.
When you said "changing the coolant" i wondered what you were on about, since it is air cooled. All very helpful, thanks.
Yeh, just me messing !
Thanks, nice video! My 2014 CB (Which I bought new) has 22,000 miles. I’ve checked valve clearances twice and virtually no change. Unless I hear a noise or something, I’m not going to check them again. The chain, which I clean and lube regularly with 80w gear oil, hasn’t gone through half its allowable stretch. I plan on replacing chain and sprockets in the near future just because they’re 9 yrs old. Three times I’ve removed the wheels to have tires mounted at my local dealer. Metzler’s are my go-to now with great grip and wear. The bike’s never been in the dealer for maintenance.
Terry this is one of the best maintenance videos on CZcams. It covers the basics in overall maintenance. Fantastic video.
You are very kind to say so, I did enjoy making it. 👍
Thanks Terry for this fantastic video (I really appreciate the bit about the coolant 😂👍) , I have watched all your vids on this bike and have found them spot on. I bought the RS version of this bike this year and like you said in your first ride vid, don't buy without a test ride. Well I had bought it a few months before you gave your good advice without a test ride, as the bike was coming from England and I have to say I have not been disappointed. The build quality and the way it drives is perfect for me and the roads in Scotland, I absolutely love this bike and the amount of passers-by that have commented on it's looks are unlike any bike I have ever owned. I have learned not to just look at a spec sheet to judge this bike and agree with you to ask owners and not journos for a proper opinion on just how good this bike is. Looking forward to your next vid👍.
That's brilliant David, many thanks for the kind words. These bikes are unique and I do think you have to live with them for a week or two until you fully get them. I enjoyed making this video and it was satisfying to change the oil and give the bike a once over. New videos will be a bit thin on the ground until this "thing" is over. May we all be back on the road soon.
I have a black one, 2013 - 2016 model. I bought it new. This winter I performed a big service on it. It has 18000 km on it. I changed the tires to bridgestone T31. Without the tubes, i made the rims tubeless myself. The air filter was spotlessly clean. The sparkplugs were fine. The brakes and discs were nearly touched. I cleaned them up, gave them new Dot4 fluid and that was it. The chain needed a little adjustment, but no sign of excessive wear there neither. I also changed the fork oil. I was a little surprised there. Both legs has 3 cm too little oil in them and the right leg missed the washer between the spacer and the spring. It made me wonder a little, but that is over now. This bike is really a pleasure to ride and to work on. At the gas station someone said to me that It was beautifully restored and asked me how old it is. I like the 2016 model more for the tank and not having the black paint on the engine. I like the chrome around the horn of the 2017 model, which mine doesn't have. Further on, i mounted the same rack as yours has. It makes the bike even more beautiful. Have a nice ride and keep safe.
Hi Walter. I have the T31's too which I think really suit the bike. I was a bit lazy and paid BartFactory to convert mine to Tubeless. Sounds like yours service experience will be mine too, I am only at 10K KM but as you know that is nothing to this engine. That rear rack is short but I do like that look compared to the longer Honda rack, it looks a little better proportioned. Take care, thanks for watching.
Thank you Terry for this wonderful video! I am in the market for this bike and was searching high and low for this type of video and cannot thank you enough.
No problem at all, glad it was of some use to you. Enjoy the search for your new wheels.
I’ve been trying to figure out my coolant swap. THANK YOU.
No problem. No need to get the dealer to do it anymore! 👍😬
Great job I’m looking forward to more cb1100 videos. I’m 34 and it’s my current bike that I plan on keeping for years to come!
Excellent! Yes, I can see me keeping this one for a long time, it’s such a unique bike.
I watched your video on the installing the tubeless Bridgestones and appreciated the information. I really enjoyed this video. You should see the service intervals for a Harley Davidson sometime and have a laugh. I really didn’t like the gas tank design on the newer bikes but it is growing on me. The red paint is beautiful. I’m glad this beautiful motorcycle is owned by a proper motorcyclist that knows his bikes in and out.
As you can imagine, it is a scary experience buying a second hand motorcycle in the USA. A lot of riders with poor mechanical ability and lack of funds to actually take the bikes into service.
@@moustachio334 Yes, it can be a throw of the dice and the consequences for picking up a poorly maintained one can leave you well out of pocket. 😮
Thank-you for watching, glad you enjoyed them. The service interval on the new Harley Pan America is quite disappointing and negates the brilliant move to a water cooled and hydraulic valve system which requires no expensive valve service. The newer style gas tank is very different to the original but I like both, I do with they had kept the older style gas cap though, very classy.
Enjoyed that. I think the best preventative maintenance for these is simply to regularly change oil and filters.
yes, I think you are right, not much to do after that, but they don't need overdoing.
Awesome Review! i had old 1981-82 CB900 C and yes the Valve shims are a pain! i was surprised about your spoke wheels.. tube tires! wow! still an Excellent Bike and Glad Honda made it!
Yes, I’m glad Honda made it too, the likes of it will never be made again. I’m going to keep this one until I can no longer ride I think.
Please continue! There is much about CB1100 on CZcams.
just what i was looking for thank you, looking at them just now
No problem 👍. When you find one sit on it before committing to it. The bike is wonderful in so many ways but it does have quite a short seat to peg distance. If you have a longer leg you will find it a little acute on the hips. Luckily for me I have a 29” leg.
@@terenceokeeffesmotorcyclestuff thanks terry mine i think is a 30 , was doing well till i heard tyre costs
@@stanleylawson9015 I went Bridgestone T31 tubeless which you can use with an inner tube, costs back to normal!
Outright happy I was able to buy a 2014 new. I way like it better than the 2017 model...
That's great, enjoy!
@Alex Novikov cosmetic, tank blacked out ect... oh, and the 14 s didn't have spoke wheels so🤔 tubeless tires...
Terry,
Time to buy a colour camera...............LOL
Thank you for the information that makes the purchase of the Honda CB1100 seem even more desirable.
Though I prefer the spoke wheels on the EX, the RS makes more sense for buying cheaper tyres with more choice.
Cheers John. I just got a reply back from Bridgestone today and they support the use of the T31 range as long as you keep the inner tube so good news there. EX or RS, I don't think you can go wrong with either, both have their merits. Enjoy if you go ahead and purchase!
Nice on Terry 👍🏻
Thank you
The price of the original tires impressed me. A lot :)
well I fell off my chair! Got T31's on it now and had the wheels converted to tubeless.
You can use tubeless tires with tubes inside.
I put the same Dunlop as OEM (but tubeless) it to my CB1100ex 20k ago
No difference.
First (OEM)Tires 30K
Second 22K and still good.
Yes you can. 👍 I decided to go the whole hog and go tubeless with a BartFactory conversion.
I have a 2017 CB1100EX and I plan to buy tubeless tires and just stick a tube in them. It’s hard enough to find tubeless tires in the correct size, especially for the front. In the US market the bike has a 112 mph speed limiter. Plus it makes 88 hp at the crank. It’s not hard on tires.
Yes, that’s the way to go I think and I am sure that is what most people are doing. I am actually going to convert the wheels to tubeless.
I have the 2013 Honda CB 1100. I love it. Is there anyway to remove the speed limiter ?
Thats a awesome machine 👏
It is great alright, still ride and enjoy it.
You need to provide a link to that cooling air! That really is a clean Honda!
For a three year old it's not too bad. It'll take a lot more looking after than the Tiger though!
Thanks for the info. Much appreciated. I just sold my Interceptor 650 and replaced it with a 2016 CB1100EX deluxe. I've done valve shims in the past on my suzuki V-Strom 650 which also shim under bucket. Although four cams in total. Would you say the CB is more tricky than the V-strom if you had any experience of changing either.
Not done either unfortunately. The last bike I did was my 16 valve Daytona 1200 which was shim over bucket. The CB does have a great reputation for needing little or no re-shimming for many miles, 60k plus. I would say it is easier at least to check these after the tank is off. As long as you take the view that ANY measurement within the tolerance is good to leave and not make it your goal go shim to some middle value. Enjoy!
Thank you
You forgot the fork oil change. I changed mine at 10k mikes and it was a slightly darker brown. The regular Honda fluid is pinkish/ red. The forks have come off the bike as well.
Yes, I thought to mention it but didn't really count it in as so many people leave it until they have a blown seal forcing them to do something. After giving my Daytona forks a good clean out the difference was appreciable and I shall do the CB's at some stage.
I certainly wouldn't use any K&N filter or any oil based air filter for that matter. The air being drawn through the induction system may draw with it a thin film of oil from the filter which may contaminate any fuel injection sensors causing them to either fail or give inaccurate readings. This is quite common in early car injection systems where the injection system was designed around a dry paper element.
Yes, never seen the draw of K&N filters. 👍
Great video! Are you sure that a tubeless tyre is not compliant with the CB wheel? Other bikes wheels with inner tube fit tubeless tires.
I have had the wheels converted to tubeless and Bridgestone said they supported their T31 on this rim. The T31 is noisier up front than the OEM Dunlop but allows for fantastic handling. Thanks 👍
Excellent Video with real information. I am looking for a more nimble bike than the Heritage Classic i got rid of. Between this bike and a Triumph Speedmaster, any suggestions? THanks Again
This is a lazy 260kg naked that’s quite unique, superb looking and fantastic to ride on country roads. But it is not what I would call nimble and if you are long legged this will be very cramped. This Honda will excel in long term reliability etc but the Speedmaster is going to offer a bit more excitement and a more comfortable ride I think.
@@terenceokeeffesmotorcyclestuff Thanks !
What kind of fuel economy does this bike achieve? Great video. My first bike was a Honda Cb 750 four f2👍
It’s not particularly frugal but good enough, I average 50-55 MPG Imperial.
😂 great video, I have been using wife's hairdryer but not the "hand technique" I feel so stupid 😂
I've seen it before, you wasted so bloody much time man! 🙄
Arent the alloy wheels tubeless? I mean, on the other, older version (2014 or something). Btw, i got standard tubeless tires fitted on my Africa Twin, even though it has tubes.
They are. Yes, I shall either fit tubeless tyres with tubes but I’m leaning towards a tubeless conversion.
Changing coolant was great. I had to stop a while to quit laughing so I could hear the video.
Expensive stuff that! 👍
How many liters is used for each bar of the front fork? Please
I’m not sure I’m with you? If you mean the rings on the preload adjusters they are purely mechanical and nothing to do with the amount of fork oil. Depending on the model the 2013 to 2016 the fork oil amounts were between 434cm3 and 506cm3 but I don’t have the figures for the 2017 models onwards I’m afraid.
I ride 15 thousand Miles per year on my Honda Rebel 500. I am considering this model.
I would be loathed to put you off buying this bike but 15,000 miles a year is a lot of riding on a standard roadster. It will cover the mileage with no fuss or bother and reliably so, but not as well as many alternatives in terms of long distance comfort. There will be high mileage examples out there but I believe most are not used at the mileage you need.
@@terenceokeeffesmotorcyclestuff I like the retro style, and engine but unfortunately in the U.S. we only seem to have 2013-2014. I have this bike and a 2014-2017 Dyna Low Rider in mind. I still wonder how many miles I can get from the Rebel 500.
@@e.l.9589 I bet that Rebel, being a Honda will just go on and on.
Non maintenance question. I was looking at your rear rack and pannier set up. Is it OEM and is it for soft luggage?
It is for soft panniers. Not OEM, it is by the German company WWW.FEHLING.DE. Reasonably priced Vs OEM too. My front engine bars are from them as well.
@@terenceokeeffesmotorcyclestuff excellent. Thanks for the quick response. What brand pannier did you go with?
@@1newbert I have only had the bike since November and don’t have panniers at the moment. They wouldn’t want to be too big otherwise the rear indicators would need relocating. If on a budget and had a rear rack a 40ltr LOMO bag and their smaller size throw overs would make a good set for next to nothing. Otherwise there is so much to choose from from super stylish premium to the likes of LOMO.
@@terenceokeeffesmotorcyclestuff thanks again. Just thinking in terms of being able to carry a couple bags of groceries, store foul weather gear and the odd overnighter.
@@1newbert no worries, a bike to be enjoyed either way. 👍
🤣 love the "coolant" section !!
Very expensive stuff that 😀. Cheers 👍
I recommend that you replace the oil filter with every oil change if you like your bike. The cost of oil filter is negligible and you extend the life of the bike. I wouldn't buy the bike from you if you told me that you replaced the filter every 20K kilometers. Also, I would replace the oil every 5K kilometers if I were you and disregard Honda's recommendation. Just saying.
Sorry, I’ll have to disagree. Extending it from what to what? A 250,000km engine life to 270,000km? This extension, if it was real, would have no impact on my ownership. Do you know that my filter is working sub-standardly at 17k km compared to 9k km for a fact, why are the people that designed and built the bike wrong? If I was living in an area with a very harsh hot climate I might be inclined to agree with you more. Cheers.
@@terenceokeeffesmotorcyclestuff Well, those who designed the bike don't necessarily want your bike last longer. Personally, I replace the oil in my bikes after every 3k miles with filters. The filter element gets clogged up and indeed degrades so it can't do the job properly. Look how black the oil was coming out of your engine! It means among other things that your filter was not able to retain the burnt elements and other particles that harm your engine. The black oil in your engine lost its properties to cool, lubricate and clean so there was more wear. It's like you replace your clothes but don't wash or vice versa! But it's your bike, you do as you please and save a couple of pennies at the expense of your bike.s longevity. And don't expect your bike to last 250 K kilometers if you treat it like that. Cheers!
@@youcanfoolmeonce - I’m sorry but you can’t make any of those assumptions about my oil or oil filter, you just can’t.You are just stating your opinion and what you would do. My point was this bike will never do 200,000 km so it is a mute point. If you really believe your filter can filter out the carbon in the oil merely changing the filter would change my oil back to golden, we both know it won’t don’t we though? But it is a free world and you can change your oil and filter as much as you want.
@@terenceokeeffesmotorcyclestuff Penny wise, pound foolish. It's not a free world though, we are all slaves except the ruling elite.
@@youcanfoolmeonce - well that last sentiment I can agree on.
Honda should've used hydraulic valve gear, as on the 1980's CBX 750, seeing as this is a far less revvy engine. Ditto with Suzuki on my SV1000, same shim under buckets, a right palaver when the time comes. I had it checked at just over 24,000 miles, all within spec. On 31,000 now and was told by the dealership that it'll be fine until 40,000 at least but I'm extremely fastidious about oil change intervals. Cowardice personified, in a perhaps vain attempt at limiting valve gear wear !
All the best from Burry Port, 15 miles west of Llanelli, and not doing much lobe scraping at 20 MPH.
Yes, for the price of a few litres of oil it's good insurance isn't it? Hydraulic lifters would of been the icing on the cake for this engine. It's a heavy enough bike as you know so a little more wouldn't've of killed it with the extra technology. Cheers to you Michael.
Ebay-110/80-18 Avon AM26 Roadrider Front/Rear Tire, $108 140/70-18 Avon AM26 Roadrider Rear Tire $150. Very good tires. 2014 Honda CB1100
Thanks for the recommendation on the Avon's. Doesn't look like the local stockist holds those but it would be easy to get them. www.avontyres.com/en-gb/tyres/roadrider-mkii?searchtype=car&cartype=motorcycle&car=Honda%20CB%201100%20CA%20-%20EX%202017%20-%202021&engine_spec=1100
@@ec9156 You're very good, thanks for sharing your experience.
Kind of you to say so, thank you.
The Avon tires are adequate, but the Bridgestone BT54s are better. I had Pirelli Scorpion A/Ts on for a while and those were really nice for a adv tire. Trying out the Pirelli Sport Demons now. If Dunlop ever makes the Roadsmart 3 in a 140-150/70 for the rear, that would be a decent option as well. I had one of the front for a long time because it's dual compound. I think I went through 2 rear tires and it's still got plenty of life left on it.
My CTX700 has screw type adjusters. It's the easiest of all. I'll never buy another shim under bucket design.
Same for the 750's too, makes a huge difference.
A hairdryer! Now why didn't I think of that..
:-) so much quicker.
Want some of that motorcycle air
I can sell you some 😉
great video. check out some vids on africa twin owners doing tubeless conversion. cheap, pretty easy.
Thanks. I have seen a few, either home made or with an Outex kit. I went with BartFactory in Italy for a tubeless conversion.www.bartfactory.it
5:24 fork oil should be replaced.
At some stage yes. The front fork action is still very supple and stiction is at a minimum.
@@terenceokeeffesmotorcyclestuff Also, swing arm bushings/bearings wear out If not lubed with high-quality grease. Why can't you use a tubeless tire with a tube? I would try that, I have done it on tubeless tires before with no issues. Steering head bearings should not be overlooked, I have had them lock up when riding. Even if you don't ride a lot knowing they're done right from the beginning (quality grease/correct fork oil wt. with the right level.) will bring peace of mind for years to come. I have just bought a 2014 DLX 6300 miles (10,000 km) will go through everything including replacing the battery. Thanks for the video on your bike Your info on valves was much appreciated
@@pwcraig65 Thanks for ther feedback. Yes, dead right on the swing arm and headstock. Not too long ago I swapped out the rear shock on my 25 year old Triumph and I reckon the rear linkage had never been apart. That actually has five grease nipples on it which are very handy! No such luck on a modern bike. I could of used a tube in the tubeless tyre of course and Bridgestone supported that on the T31 tyre. I decided to go the whole hog and converted to tubeless so I could repair a puncture by the side of the road easily.
If you're going to change the oil, then go ahead and change the filter as well. It is NOT a waste of money. An oil filter can be had for like 5-7 USD. That is cheap insurance for your engine. Putting clean oil in the pan with a used, dirty filter is nonsense. Every mechanic knows to change the oil filter with the oil. So don't be cheap, spend that $5 and put a new filter in there. There just isn't any reasonable argument not to do so. Especially when the filter is so easy to locate and remove/replace.
So you are right and the mighty Honda corporation, the ones who designed and built the engine are wrong? Every mechanic as you put it knows little of advanced engineering but I’m afraid to tell you the Honda Engineers do. A filter’s performance changes in nature as it is used and as it naturally traps micro debris it’s ability to trap smaller micro debris grows thereby actually increasing its filtration performance if left rather than changed prematurely. This particular engine also leaves a full 1L of oil in itself on an oil and filter change, you can get upset about that too if you want.
@@terenceokeeffesmotorcyclestuff Don't believe everything you read in the owner's manual. In fact, most owner's manuals are NOT written by the engineers who designed the car or motorcycle. I will give you a good example: In modern Toyota car manuals they recommend changing the oil every 10,000 miles. Now the vast majority of experienced mechanics will tell you to change it every 5,000. Turns-out the 10,000 mile oil change interval is the bare minimum you must do to keep your warranty with Toyota. But if you actually follow that schedule, you will have a ruined engine at 150,000 miles or so. It will need to be replaced. There are many, many documented cases of this happening. By that time, you are well out of warranty, so what does Toyota care? See what I mean? The manual isn't always 100% correct. Hell, I have found many errors in owner's manuals over the years with cars and motorcycles I have owned. My 1987 Mustang had 1986 information printed in it, even though that specific part had changed for '87. So don't believe the manual is always 100% correct, because it isn't. Why are you even arguing the point? Are you so cheap you won't spend a lousy $5 on an oil filter to protect your engine? Are you serious??
@@LA_Commander I thought I had made my point on the filter. As it ages it actually improves its filtration of smaller particles. You are restarting the clock on the efficiency on filtration by prematurely by changing it. As long as it will allow enough flow to keep volume and pressure up that filter will be fine and doing a helluva job, a better job than a new one. I agree about some of the user manual errors as you state, this though is not a typo and it is not about saving $5.
@@terenceokeeffesmotorcyclestuff Yes, and your point is a good one. Problem is a dirty filter can become clogged and if oil pressure rises it can trigger the bypass valve, in which the oil will just pass through the oil filter but not go through any of the filter media. So you will end up having unfiltered oil. And yes, it is about the money since you stated in the video not to waste your money on a new filter. When it comes to your engine, I think a new oil filter is the best $5 to $7 you can spend, other than new oil of course.
@@LA_Commander One assumes when Honda state only to change the filter every other oil change they know all this and have no expectation that the oil/oil filter will get so dirty and thick as to trigger the bypass, so the scenario of unfiltered oil is just hypothetical. It might take 75,000 miles to get to that state, who knows? Obviously Honda do know and hence the recommendation. But again, I must disagree with your statement that a new oil filter is the best $5 you can spend for the reason I have stated twice in the above comments. I have two other bikes, if the manufacturer recommend an oil filter change every change I do change it, if Honda are happy every other, that's fine with me too. We shall have to agree to disagree. I have all due respect for your view 👍
Air-oiled cooled. Boy, that oil is way too black for my bikes! And I would be careful about oil breaking down after 2 years. I run in 38C to 40C temps in the summer in South Texas. Change mine every 6 months, even if I do no not hit the miles. I do a suggest a K&N Air Filter; you never have to buy another, got mine off ebay for about $58. 2 Honda filters $ >I $ K&N Air Filter. I am going to line my wheels with a kit from Out-Ex off ebay for $110, that seals off the spokes, then probably run a tube in them anyway. Tube tires for this bike even in the States are almost impossible to find and cost way too much! Since I keep my bikes a long time, what I have suggested here factors into that, and my Forum members see me doing almost all of my bike work myself, except change tires. Those days are over!
Looks can be deceiving with oil, I was quite suprised how dark my new oil was actually. I reckon if I had that analysed it would have protection properties still well intact. That has about 5,000 miles on it so it hasn't had too harder life in terms of a running engine. I'll admit it does look dark but that is not really a true indication of its protection capability. Oil compainies have agendas and there is a reason they propergate the annual change regardless of mileage. My brother in law spent most of his working life in sales for a large UK manufacturer of oil, he would back me up all the way. If I were doing 15,000 milea a year I would probably change this oil twice, possibly three times a year but I'm not so I really don't feel it is neccessary. As for the airfilter, again, you would want to be doing massive mileage to reap any cost benefit from a K&N but even this is dubious, I just don't buy into the hype of them. The hassle of cleaning chemicals and re-oiling doesn't appeal to me either. I'm not convinced that they make a "freer flowing" product than the OEM filter either. My Triumph stock airfilter has a change interval of 24,000 miles, this stock Honda filter will be well up for that too and changing it earlier will have no impact on any aspect of this bike.
Yes, Out-Ex have a good reputation, probably the most well known supplier of tubeless conversions on the planet, great choice. What would be the benefit of keeping the tube though? If you get a puncture without the tube you plug it by the roadside and off you go. If you have a tube, which would also be punctured, you could seal the tyre with a roadside repair but you will still have a big chunk of deflated rubber flopping around the inside of your tyre which will be less than ideal at speed.
We are lucky here, I can get Bridgestone Battlax T31 in my EX 18" sizes in three days with the local stockist so I still have the option of using those with the tube or going tubeless if I do the conversion. Bridgestone confirmed they support this tyre on the EX with a tube. I'm definately with you on the tyre change, I never really did it unless forced anyway and I'm happy to let someone else change my rubber, it's not to often after all. I also know I would scratch those lovely rims to bits! Good luck Michael, stay safe.
@@terenceokeeffesmotorcyclestuff Thanks for the info about the Battlax T31 tires. I run a different tubeless Battlax on my 2013 CB1100, and they are doing fine. I guess the issue with the oil where I live is the extremely high heat I ride in, and the huge amount of dust in South Texas. It is probably due to lots of farming, and extended times of no rain! This puts lots of solids in my air filters, and what ever gets through, in my oil. I just feel better knowing I am getting this crud out of my bike at least twice a year. I recycle all my oil, so hopefully it is used again. The guys at Out-Ex said a tube would not hurt, but was unnecessary, so I will not go that route. They mentioned plugging the tire, as you did. I use Motul 7100 oil that is colored, and easy to tell when dirty. I probably spend too much on my bike care, but these are my babies, and I do not plan on buying anymore new bikes unless Honda brings the CB1300 Stateside. Thanks for the reply, and you ride safe too. Wish I could visit Ireland and England, and ride in weather that did not toast me. We hit 29C here yesterday and we are in the coldest month of Winter! (I had to sign in on my granddaughter's account, my PW would not work)
The problem with K&N air filters is that they're so good at filtering the air, that the motor doesn't get as much as it needs. Unless you're riding in really dusty conditions (at which point now you've got to service the K&N frequently) it's not worth it. And NEVER buy a K&N oil filter or anything but an OEM Honda oil filter. I've seen too many motors with rod knock or completely seized and they all had aftermarket oil filters on them.
Its oil cooled, theres no coolant
I was being sarcastic 😀
😂don't forget the blinker fluid!
The oil philosophy is whack! Change your oil and filter when it starts to get dirty! You will EXTEND your engine life, period.
It’s Hondas philosophy, not mine. The argument is that the filter, as it gets used more, traps finer particles increasing engine protection from ever smaller contaminants as it ages. The interval is gauged so as not to leave it too long and clog the filter of course. So your period might just be misplaced.
you'r bike do as you feel I'm shure you will.