The best way to buy new tyres if you care about performance and safety | Auto Expert John Cadogan
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I just put some Bridgestone EP150s on a 2005 Honda Jazz. I could've saved a couple hundred bucks by putting some Lucky Dragon Ditchfinders on there, but the missus is worth more than a couple hundred bucks. No car is too old for good tyres.
How someone will buy tyres now. Step 1: Watch the well informed, experienced and well trained advice. Step 2: Get online and then disregard all the high standard of information just viewed and and buy some cheap Chinese tyres.
More like: Step 2 - discover that no one actually sticks the exact model of tyre you’ve just seen tested and be forced to buy whatever the retailer happens to have in your size.
Double Happiness make very good rubber ... for a table tennis bat.
Not sure if this answers anything but as a budget endurance racer (Motor Events Racing) where we race shit boxes flat out for hours upon end I can give the following recommendations:
Wet/all rounder: Pilot Sport 4, amazing tyres, one of the best in the wet, can survive 14h+ of solid dry running around Phillip Island and it still have enough tread to be Road legal, re003 is also a good tyre but doesn't last anywhere near as long and lap time is similar between the two.
Dry: Hankook RS4, a budget friendly semi slick which you can push for an entire weekend and it comes back for more, is OK in the wet but nowhere near as good as the Ps4. Still plenty of tread for another day of racing after 12 hours racing at Eastern creek.
Hope our stupidity helps gives you some guidance.
John, You have been truely prolific in the last few weeks. Keep up the good work
Dear John, you covered this topic multiple times, but every time watching you talk through is very educational for me. I take away a lot since I was in Uni. Thank you for your effort/s. Cheers
I'm nearly 70 yrs old now and so I have plenty (53 yrs) of driving experience. During that time, I've been talked out of Michelins by tyre dealers twice and bought several 2nd hand cars fitted with other brand tyres. Each time I have had non Michelin tyres, the experience has varied from 'scary as shit on a wet road' to 'I paid a lot of money and only got 35,000km' to 'these tyres aren't too bad but they sure aren't Michelins'. In other words, Michelins ALWAYS give me excellent wear, a quiet ride and great grip in all conditions. Nowadays, if I buy a car with non Michelins, depending on which category above that they fall into and how much wear is left, I'll either go out and buy some new Michelins and sell the others cheaply so someone can pass a roadworthy or I'll buy new Michelins and tell the dealer to scrap the old tyres because they're just not safe.
Directional tires also have arrows on the sidewall which make it pretty easy to tell which way it's meant to turn
Should be. I had my directional put on the wrong way at the dealership once. told the service manager and he had the issue corrected. She did say the 'mechanic" would get a tongue lashing as this was the second time that day he did it wrong.
The tread pattern is an even bigger give away.
been in the motor trade for 35 years. Always great information on this channel.
Driving a convertible, road noise plays a big part in my choice of tyre. Unfortunately I have to go to UK websites to find tyre quietness figures, and then come back to Australian websites to see if those same tyres are available over here. It appears that the Australian websites are only interested in group, wet weather performance, road handling but couldn’t give two hoots about road noise
Like you I care very much about tyre noise. However, I often found tyres with a higher noise rating, were actually quieter in use, than those officially rated lower. Having read into the noise rating system, it turns out they are measuring external (drive by) noise. Not cabin noise, thus making the ratings utterly useless. It's just another pointless, EU inspired bureaucratic solution, to the non problem of traffic noise.
Did you find any correlation between noise/performance/lifespan etc?
@@spackle42 In theory quieter tyres use softer rubber, so wear faster. In practice that doesn't always seem to hold true. I get the feeling there are far too many variables in play. The Dunlops I brought had a higher noise rating, yet wore out far quicker than the Michelins I brought next. Review sites are usless as everyone has a different driving style, different vehicle and is looking for different qualities in a tyre. It seems there is no sensible alternative to just trying different tyres out over time. If like me, you are more interested in quietness and a soft pliant ride than extreme road holding, there is no help at all. Cars and tyres today all seem to be reviewed by the office fetus, zooming around a race track. 😠
@@spackle42
Quieter tyres tend to be a softer compound, so wear more quickly but seeing as I drive less than 5.000km a year I don’t really care about that as my tyres need to be replaced due to age long before they are worn to the point of needing replacement. I replace mine with about 1/3 of acceptable tread still left.
@@Adam-xc4qs I think you nailed it. JC has said this often, reviews are only worth while to those paying the most in advertising and junket dollars.
When I was a lot younger and dumber, I bought a cheap set of retailers own brand tyre, and they got me the rwc. However not 100km later, mid summer (40+) the tyre decided to have an internal failure and sent out a large air bubble between the rubber layers. It was positioned mostly on the sidewall but did extend over about 1/4 of the tread. When I made contact with the retailer ( think oz race car driver) store franchise just told me ‘bad luck’ never went back. That costly mistake, was almost $2500 in body repairs and then a new set of tyres on top. Have not, and will not recommend that brand/franchise to anyone. But I learnt a very expensive and heart pounding lesson. I now look at reputable named brands and will price compare between retailers, then head to my preferred business and see if they will price match. The last set of Pirelli tyres between retailers was a difference of nearly $100 for 5. My supplier hooked me up with a discount that saved me another $50. So the overall saving was $30 per tyre. Over the next closest competitor.
As you said, it’s not worth the risk to run them cheaper tyres. I was lucky, but it sure did change the colour of them ridge grundys that day.
I have found that "Tyre Reviews" here on youtube produces good, competent, unbiased reviews of a great range of tyres.
In the US it is Tire Rack. Bought a set of Bridgestone Potenza RE 71 RS last week. The Lotus weighing in at 875kg my tires last far more miles than advertised even with exuberant driving.
You reinforced two great points John. James May td a story about Tiff Needel who was sent by his editor to tyre test in Spain for a week. He was back in two days and when asked why said, "They were all the same."
The late, great Frank Gardner said the same as you regarding putting your family in a second rate car. It makes sense to spend a few dollars more to give them the best protection.
Thanks again.
Every tyre is a compromise, minimise the compromise for your use and budget and then drive accordingly. Just dont expect a good offroad tyre to be good on road and vice-versa, or a long life high load tyre to be comfortable and good in the wet, or a high performance road tyre to like rocks or last really well...
Yes, mate, but what we all want to know if whether any of the non-traditional brands that are a bit cheaper are actually up there with the "premium" tyres that you can't tell the difference between. You know ... brands that have been around for a while and do a bit of advertising and race sponsorship such as Hankook, Kuhmo, Falken, Cooper...
Falken tyres are great. I forget the model, but I had a set as OEM tyres on a VW about 10 years ago and they were great. Replaced with a set of Continentals which were also pretty great (tho I only put the Contis on because the tyre place I had to use because novated lease couldn't get Falkens at the time).
Also had a set of Hankooks on one of my first cars. This was back when Hankook were cheap. I don't remember what they were like to drive on, but I remember they lasted a ridiculously long time (about 70,000km).
Only just found your account, love how your so honest
The most timely vid John. Thankyou soooooo much for the clarity. 💪💪💪💪💪🛞🛞🛞🛞🛞🛞🛞🛞
I used to work in the call centre for a large tyre retailer I wanted tyres for a small Japanese car so as I was transferring the calls through I would ask them what tyres they would recommend for me.They all said GOODYEAR OPTILIFE because so many said the same thing I pointed this out and the response was they sold this tyre to all their friends and family.They said this tyre was a little bit noisy and you felt some of the bumps more but it gripped well and lasted a long time I purchased them and they were just as I was advised.
Great tyres; probably the best value quality tyre available for cars and light trucks.
Tyre choice for my family vehicles is very simple. I purchase nothing but Bridgestone. 👍👍🇭🇲
John. in another life, your vocation would be as an educator - and a bloody great one!
We need to lift our game when it comes to tyre ratings. In Europe they have quite a nice system for labelling that allows easy comparison.
P.S. 9:55 my wife’s car has Michelin Primacy’s on it. Nice tyre IMO.
Brilliantly explained….thank you 😃👍
When I was working for Bridgestone commercial our truck tyres were definitely the best all round tyres especially as had Bandag retreads
The scariest experience I had was with Korean made Hankook tyres; I had one split along the middle of the tread catastrophically; luckily, it exploded at low urban speed; I'd hate to think of the accident if it had happened at freeway speeds. When I contacted Hankook head office, they refused to address my complaint, because I couldn't produce the sales receipt from when they were purchased and fitted!
Hankook are good tyres.
Mid 70's Dunlop "India Executive" tyres on a HD were the most grippy tyres I ever experienced, until they were recalled. You could wear half the name off the sidewall.
The youtube channel Tyre reviews is great. I recommend it.
Been a fan of Goodyear Eagle F1 Asymmetric for years now.
I remember one guy popped into my friend's tire shop. It was probably 2017 or 2016. Anyway, guy drove in with best BMW ever produced - early E65, 740 V8 with LPG. He said he needs 21" tires, on beautiful used chrome wheels. Since it wasn't very big shop they probably had like 2-3 different sets of 21s in stock, but guy insisted that he wants only the best - cheapest possible tires. So he chose Wang Ling Ding Dong Speed Red Dragon Racer 3 (well not the actual name, but you get what I mean) for around 200 euros for a set (so it's 50 euro/ for 21" tire, with tire shop profit margin). And first thing he does after putting these wonderful chrome pieces of art and new tires - is a burnout. In my whole life, I have not seen a tire which was not smoking while doing burnout, but this one - didn't. After solid 15 seconds there were some black/gray-ish smoke and almost nothing on the asphalt.
Anyway - guy came back ~15k kilometers later, with a puncture. But he was extremely happy, because tires were almost brand new. There were almost no wear on thread. They were like 7-7.5mm instead of 8-8.5 maybe. And than after that - he came back within 2-3k kilometers because tires went almost bald. So the structure of the tire was somewhat amazing - top layer is almost plastic, not rubber, reminds me of kids toy truck tires - hard black rubber/plastic and second layer is very soft some kind of rubber. And it is almost visible from the side profile - looks a bit like typical restored/re-threaded truck tire. So there are levels of premium, good tires and also levels of shitty tires to a point where I have no clue how they are legal to sell to public.
One of the best films I have seen you do. Such a mine field. But nice to know there isn’t too much between the top brands.
Great discussion John.
Must be the tyre buying season - so many videos on buying tyres!
Unexpected brain bleed during the directional tyre explanation. Still better then watching TV.
John keeps going on about the weight of the Model 3. It might surprise him to find out it’s just 105kg heavier than a Toyota Camry SL - or to put it another way , one John Cadogan heavier. (Sorry - I’m just guessing!). It has more interior and luggage space. And the weight is better distributed. The Pilot Sport 4s are great tyres but they are not renowned for their longevity. There’s a reason the Model 3 is so efficient. Excellent drag co-efficient, weight reduction and the Pilot Sport 4’s which is an excellent EV tyre.
Also, they can sell you the ones they need to move as last in stock/years old
At a tyre retailer: Me "Can I get a set of Pilot Sport 4s please. Retailer: Silence. Me "Are you ok? Retailer. "Sorry you're the first person today that didn't want the cheapest tyres"
I own two high performance cars, I race cars and I drive them within an inch of their life. John is exactly spot on, I always buy premium tires and I couldn’t say one brand is better than any other as far as all round performance. Sure some will grip better if your using street tires on a track and you’ll wear through them in no time because of their softness but on the street hopefully no one is driving spirited enough to be able to notice this small amount of grip difference at maximum g’s around a corner.
Nice vid Mr C. How about joining a club & asking what they think? If you want tyres with specific requirements, ask them if they are good in the wet or fuel efficient or quiet or hard wearing. It's also about how you want your car to ride. If you want a soft ride, don't go low profile because it may look good as after a while you will get fed up & wished you had chosen a tyre with a higher profile. All the best....
Very good info
I imagine you'd have to pay close attention to load ratings when shopping for a heavy EV too. It might limit your options somewhat, especially in performance tyres.
All I want is a quiet tyre that handles the wet, the mud, the snow and the sand but lasts forever. Not asking too much?
I find tank tracks work incredibly well in those situations.
@@brentonl1746 yeah they don’t quite come in under the “quiet” criteria but I guess they’re good at high speeds.
No completely realistic expectations. No need to listen to people who say there are tradeoffs. That said you can kind of make a good highway tyre excellent in mud and snow. Fit chains. Of course your maximum speed is reduced but you can get through almost anything in a pinch. Pain to fit but allows you to go gnarly without going insane on the rubber.
John, Bosh had a test track in Mongolia. Back a few years it was used, in part to test new designed Bosh parts used in braking and new tyre designs used on prestige motors. Testing was limited in summer & winter.
*Bosch. Quick, fix it before he sees!
I've done rotational/directional tires with offset sizes for performance vehicles I always have to stop, sort, separate for each side and mark the tires with a crayon when managing that many factors in tire mounting not to mention wheel prep, TPMS service packs, and figuring out if I'm dealing with reverse mount rims.
On my golf all season on the front asymmetric on the rear it works very well goodyears
So true; but extremely high-performance tires however prematurely ruin the ball joints
Really good technical description John. I have bought many tyres from the Tyre Tests carried out by both Motor and Wheels. Even worked as a Store Manager for Beaurepaires (1.5yrs of my life I will never get back). I had the same problems with customers as you described, Lol idiots. Air is Free!!!
G'Day John,totally agree,,,Not in to tire rotation,when i had me Ute,every 12 to 24 months would get new tires for the front,and place the fronts on the back till they got too hard or Bald,,usually got hard before wearing out,,Front's? You ask,?Braking and steering in the wet,
now i have a front wheel drive version i still do the same new front and front to the back,
the only other comment i wish to make is see if you can check tire date's,,
Found a lot of "Speacil tires " were near out of date,,and yes you have done a film on this,
My experience with wet weather in initial wet conditions [ light rain ] is totally worse than heavy rain after two days of constant rain . Aussie summer ice is a real problem .good luck trying to compare one premium tyre against another with variable conditions . May I suggest more education only works when people are interested , the rest should catch the bus .
The Michellin PS5 just came out as the replacement for the Pilot Sport 4. It is said to be more durable w/o compromising the rest of the specs and the sidewall is the prettiest wich is a bonus! Michellin is expensive tho...
Michellin PS 5 is not a replacement for PS 4 , they are a compliment to the range , not so hard core , better ride , have them on my V8 commodore , love them .
Some tires create more noise while driving. The best I’ve had on a car are Continental tires for grip, handling and low noise
General brand tires are a great Continental replacement option if you know that you're going to get a new car in the next 1-3 years. They are essentially the same company.
My wife in her VF SV6 commodore gets OEM Bridgestone potenza. Toyo AT2 on our awd ford territory. Goodyear dura trac on my GU patrol and TF rodeo. It’s not bloody cheap but when you need to count on them you know you can.
Like a tire, this was a well-rounded review.
JC can you comment on if it is worthwhile checking country of manufacture for the premium tyre you choose.
On my 4x4 I have BFG made in Thailand and they don’t seem to be holding up nor performing as well, especially in the wet, as the previous set I had that was made in the USA.
Some top tire manufacturers also make tires for generic store brands. They can be just as good but at a cheaper price. Premium name-brand tires are expensive and highly profitable for the manufacturers and retailers.
Tyres.... arguably the single most important part of an automobile.
The only things that keep you on the road, you can't steer, brake or go without them, but how often to people check their pressure or condition?
my current vehicle (ZG Escape ST-Line AWD) has 19x8 alloy wheels which have P235/45/19 99v Continental Contact Sport 5 tyres which are OEM from the factory, that said looking at prices for this very tyre from various retailers suggest the price is approx $330 to $350 each, so far after 40,000km of at least 60% metro / 30% highway / 10% dirt road I can say that I will be prepared to again buy what the OEM (FORD) fitted from the Factory again as they have been a very decent tyre, what I would prefer to do though is ditch the 19x8 alloys for something like 17x7.5 alloys which still allows for 235 width but increase aspect to 55 up 10 from 45 to fix the ride balance since the Escape did have such alloys as OEM equipment from the factory in said size, it would also fix the speedometer which is off by 5km/h.
I have a similar sized tyre on my VF, I'm a huge fan of the pilot sport 4 for a less aggressive sports tyre, great grip, long life, low tyre noise etc, over other similar tyres from continental or Pirelli.
The cheap tyres shit me because they don't work when you need them!
Been looking into those, thanks.
struggling to come to grips with that......11:35..... pun intended? V. funny John. Good info as always and info suitable directed to my enthusiastic driving sons.😁
20 yrs ago I bought a set of Goodyear Eagle tires for my VP wagon. After 3 rebalances over 10K, I got rid of them. A few years ago I bought 2 Kumho tyres at $160 each at recommendation of local tyre dealer. Lasted less than 30K kms. I bought a WH Statesman that had Nexen tyres in back. Got 100K kms out of them and the tread wear was even despite being run on the back that has the independent suspension that has large toe out.
Most buyers are all about tread life, along with safety, noise, and comfort. If you drive a lot every year, a high treadwear rating like for a Michelin all season tire might be best, because if you drive less per year they will start to get sidewall cracks after about 7 years, even though the tread is not worn out yet. I like the Pirelli P7 tires, because they are quiet, have good traction for rain, and for me the tread wears out before the sidewalls crack. The more expensive Michelins are not worth the extra cost, but would be if I drove a lot more per year since they last longer.
"Advertising reptiles"
Perfect description.
If you fit a directional tyre the wrong way, is it possible for the rainwater that gets pumped to the middle of the tread to destroy it? I have heard one such anecdote (directional tyre, fitted wrong way, fine on dry, developed leak within let's say an hour of driving in the wet) and am wondering whether it's a thing or a coincidence.
Best bet is to talk to other owners of the same car and use their experience. Amongst the HSV VF GTS owners, the clear favourite is the Michelin Pilot Sport 4S. Awesome tyre. I have no trouble getting 586 rwkW to the ground with them at roll racing.
I'll make a note of this for next time. I just went with ContiMaxContact MC6's on the VF2 GTS recently - definitely quieter than the 5P's and they seem good off the line, but wet roundabouts felt a bit skittish. Funnily enough, I have Pilot Sport 4S's on the Jetta in Vic and stuck with them as they seem great in the cold wet (unlike the 5P's on the GTS...sub 8 degrees C would lose a heap of grip) - not sure why I didn't look at them for the HSV.
I'll definitely look at them for my VE Sv6
While there might not be a big difference in tyre performance I do think the Michelin Pilot Sport tyres are quieter on the road than say the Bridgestone equivalent.
However, I get the feeling they may wear down faster. This is a very subjective comment based on changing tyres on on old Mercedes SLK from Bridgestone to Michelin and noticing a significant reduction in road noise. Of course going from old worn to new will reduce noise but I think the Michelins were quieter than the new Bridgestones.
Having driven an older model 3 Tesla for a couple of days using non Michelin tyres road noise is definitely a significant issue with electric vehicles. No noisy engine means other noises become more significant to your ears so picking a tyre that minimises road noise is a good idea.
I have been lucky enough to be able to afford to put top quality tyres on vehicles I have owned. It makes absolute sense to give the vehicle the best opportunity to stay on the road, and stop as quickly as possible. Tyres must the most critical safety component in any vehicle along with the braking system.
I find that mid range tires are a decent option. General, Cooper, and Toyo are pretty close in performance to the premium brands. You have to drive at the limits (recklessly/illegally) to really tell a difference.
Took me thirty years of buying and waiting to wear out disappointing new tires to finally find some decent ones. I now only fit Michelin Energy XM2 touring tires to my vehicles. 25% more mileage than anything else I've ever bought (Dunlop, Bridgestone, Goodyear, Yokohama, Silverstream...), quiet for their entire life, great road holding in wet and dry,, and look good to me too. About twice the price of the rubbish and not a great deal dearer than the main brands but way better value in my opinion.
Is there a difference between an OEM supplied tyre and a retail tyre, provided the same labelling except for a character in the end? In the motorcycle world, sometimes you get a brilliant tyre specced (e.g. Michelin Pilot Sport) and delivered but it only lasts 1/4-1/3 as long as expected, as there's cost cutting to deliver a good tyre cheaply.
Unless we talk about a supercar used for track days by an experienced driver, you will not notice any difference between an OE and a standard tire of the same model in daily use.
The only case in which you can notice a difference is actually what you mentioned above. But that's not because of trying to make the tire cheaply. How it actually works is - the bike manufacturer, say Ducati, goes to the tire manufacturer, say Michelin, and says: "We like your Power 5 tires, but we want a little more grip, because our riders drive faster and we want to emphasize out bike's performance and handling." Michelin then make a custom version of that tire for Ducati that has slightly more grip. Nothing that a rando on the street will notice, but something that an experienced rider can feel as a small improvement. That grip comes at a cost though, and that cost is tire life. Softer compound grips better, but wears faster. So your tires can last a little less than the stock Power 5 tire. And naturally it can go the other way, the vehicle manufacturer can ask for a longer lasting tire, sacrificing a little grip. Or they can ask for a less noise, more comfort, etc. But in all cases what a non-expert customer can notice is just the tire life, because all other improvements or compromises are marginal.
‘Braking is gonna be more important’
More specifically braking in wet conditions. (Oops hadn’t watched at 6:44 yet)
The braking differences between tyres in the wet are usually much larger than in dry conditions.
Btw what would be the stopping distance at 100kph of a Tesla model S compared to, say, a BMW 5 series?
I had kinforrest on my Commodore when I bought it, great tyres in the dry so so in the wet, but good enough I bought them again at $90 a corner. Now have Goodyear F1 up front, and kumho ps51 on rear. Goodyear are great. But I'd rather kinforrest over the kumho
Love Tshirt
I tried Pirelli PZero tyres back to back with Bridgestone RE003, same size, both brand new. The Pirelli were really loud and the Bridgestone were very quiet. I still have them, they are brilliant.
I found Pirelli are quieter than re003s myself. And the re003 goes off earlier I find.
Interesting, I've heard a lot of complaints about the RE003 and road noise, that said its not an issue for me as my hearing's not great.
@@Low760 not sure how long the RE003 will last, this is my first set
@@davidshepherd265 funny thing, it must make a difference to the vehicle you fit them to. My comparison was back to back on same car, the RE003 are a pleasure to drive on, very quiet.
@@rossmarzano I have them on my AH Astra and my GE Mazda 626, my hearing isn't great, but to me they're no louder or quieter than any other tyre. Otherwise though, I have nothing but good things to say about them.
Enjoyed this one, good topic and you dialled the parody down 50%.
Certain sized rims have limited choices when it comes to good tyres. I have had a lot of trouble over the years getting good tyres and only worse with time (due to less and less choices). I have tried many of the good brands, Michelin, Bridgestone, Continetal, Ovation, etc etc... Out of sheer luck a company car I had got Maxxis HP5 replacement tyres over the Bridgestones it had and I was impressed how much better they gripped in the rain and also a decent amount better in the dry too. I got them for my personal car and what a difference! They were also a little cheaper than the big brands.
For my weekend car I run Toyo R888R and they are awesome! But super expensive. The size is now not available though 🙄
The worst tyres I have used were Kelly, Bridgestone RE92 and Bob Jane allrounders, the later 2 I would get bogged on bitumen at the traffic lights on Canterbury road in Kilsyth when it rained.
I love the RE92s on my Magna. Good mileage, good grip, quiet and progressive breakaway when starting to slip or gaining traction again. By contrast, Continental (Ecocontact, I think) were noisier (the sound was reminiscent of tapping a filled balloon) and the transition to and from slip to grip was very sharp.
After your interview with the Kia Engineers about the effort they put into their Australian tune, I'll stick with their tyre recommendation too.
Hi John. Have a question relating to tyre speed rating. Bought a 2022 Ssangyong Rexton (please don't hit me...) which I've been actually pretty happy with, but the Kumho road tyres supplied are awful (as expected). Do want something with a bit more offroad grip, as is supposed to be a "4x4", but tyre placard states needs 105H minimum spec. Now, can't see myself getting close to the "H" rated 210kmh, unless I drop it from a helicopter, but it's near impossible finding an AT style tyre with a H rating, especially if changing from the standard size. They all seem to max out at S or T. Investigate online web pages, and "everyone" (whomever everyone is) says you must only use tyres which meet or exceed the H speed rating to be legal. But then have a lot of people, including "tyre experts" who state in Australia you only need to meet 140kph rating for 4x4 or 180kph for passenger cars, and the placard is not relevant in Australia. Even Coopers tyres state something to this effect on their web page (then don't list a compatible tyre as they don't have H ratings...dur!) These tyre experts keep quoting the "Tyre and rim Association of Australia" manual, but given it's subscription only, is a little difficult to confirm the content. As you say, asking a tyre dealer can be a can of worms. So wondered if you could clarify who is correct? Don't want to void insurance, don't drive like a rally driver, and never had to worry about anything beyond a S or T speed rating in the past, so it's never reared its ugly head before, but do plan on some light off road stuff, and road tyres just aren't going to cut it for grip. You mention in the vid the importance of load ratings, but what about speed ratings, and meeting the placard rating for legality? Be interested in what you think.
Anyone have any recommendations for my 2016 lancer es?
Having bought a Kia which was said to have Australian road tune . The engineer select tyres ect for this for the best all round handling fuel economy braking . is selecting another brand going to risk reducing the result the Kia company came up with?
Hi mate. I bought a Porsche 986 18months ago, a fresh import from Japan and due to compliance I guess had new tyres fitted buy the retailer. They are Horace Hozizon (classy right). My question is what effect would these tyres make to the feel of the car? It seems to hang on but can wonder especially in windy conditions( not been in the rain). I am slowly going through many things to refurb the car so thats not been on the priority as yet. Cheers Martin
Hi sir, i need your advice. Currently i drive a corolla cross. Original tyres specs comes with size is 225/50/R18. Is it possible if i change the tyres size to 325 /60/ R18? Is it more comfortable on the road or reduced the performance.
Got Goodyear for the Mazda2 and Bridgestone Firestone Destination for the XV-s.
Paying anything between 500 to 1k for minimal of 4 years of use is a great deal.
The 4 for price of 3 is a good deal. Never compromise with your safety.
Triangle and good ride are the most common cheap tyres in nz. Ling long and sailun following closely
That's right... HubNut put a pair of Goodrides on the back of the AU Falcon he bought when he visited NZ. When he eventually sent his AU back to the UK, it only took about a month or so for the rear end to let go at a roundabout and send him into a ditch. He put Continentals on all four wheels shortly afterwards.
Made with Chinesium!! Same as chinzyum?
Surely, longitudinal grooves in tyres are to reduce posibility of aqua-planing ??
I was phoning a tyre shop asking all these questions, the bloke on the phone must have got a bit bored and said mateeeeeee, just get the type and brand that the car came with when new , no problems with insurance , good simple advise . I think many tyre features fancy tread patterns are like pretty coloured fish lures designed to catch the buyer more than the fish.
Just my luck Ive considered every OEM tire for all my vehicle's a rip off. They all are rated for 60k and I always achieve 25K and they all have insufficient grip in the snow. Alas every-single-tire Ive researched and sourced has performed better that oem model and brands. 7 vehicles and counting. Those in the comments that say they are satisfied with oem tire model and brand are buying a vehicle that they are not driving in the snow or rain and they are substantially reducing thier speeds before making turns.
Does anyone remember the certain slogan and marketing campaign "if it only saves you once a year, it's a Goodyear"?
I personally prefer my tyres to save me every day of the year, not just once a year.
I'd heard the main differences between the Pilot Sport 4 and Pilot Sport 5 is endurance. The Pilot Sport 5 is supposed to last twice as long. Their performance is about the same.
couldn't care less about ultra high performance tyres but very annoyed about the lack of 3PMSF tyres in Australia which the south eastern states could do with for winter or to run year round - we need 3PMSF rated all season tyres to be more readily available (as well as winters and the available all terrains)
Tyre testing for cars just seemed like an impossible task, usually I'll just buy Michellins because that's what I use on my motorcycles. With the 2 wheeled contraption it is very easy to feel how the tyres are performing. Also load rating and speed ratings are rather important and many seem to gloss over it.
Easy when your boss owns a tyre shop. You get the really good ones at cost price.
Of course you did not mention performance at various stages of tyre wear !
Chinesium, I’m still laughing 😂
The answer would be to make A machine to test
Those tyres under controlled conditions in big box which could calculate skid and stopping electronically.
If you’re prepared to adjust your driving in the wet and you roll 10 km below the posted limit you can actually get away with run-of-the-mill bottom end tyres and they will last quite well
but if you have a faster car you like push it a bit here in there then yeah you’re just gonna have to pay up……
Im talking the difference of 130 a tire and 300 - 350 a tire on a full-size car…….. it’s a fair bit of dough
The reason most people don't get top tier tyres is because the average cost of a set of Pilot sport 4's is about $1800 and that's not including the wheel alignment or fitting. On the other hand you could get a set of nankangs for about 600 without fitting and wheel alignment.
Pilot sports are track day tires he talking about everyday tires.
Surely is would be a "Happy Ending Knob Gripper!" Clearly for Off Roading? :O :)
I've had Michelin just explode and pirelli are noisy as fuck, don't grip in the wet an wear out in 19k miles. Pirelli p zero rosso. For the last 8 years I've run with Chinese jinyu tyres, you get a set for the price of one pirelli, they don't drum, fail in a delamination disaster and last around 25k miles. I press on a bit and have never found any problems with the jinyu. But then again they do have one of the most advanced tyre plants in the world, with not much human activity used in building the tyres, its robotics.
Surely ESP means you can use cheaper tyres. 🤔
What if you don't like your missus?
Chinesium retread snow tyres at 60psi. Make sure it's got a really good safety rating, 1 is the best dear. Remember to oil her brakes to stop the squeaking as well.
@@iainfenwick2433 perfect 👌🏻
So, if you have Asymmetric tyres fitted for daily use, then the spare should be "Symmetric"?
And, of course, those crappy "space savers" don't have enough tread on them to differentiate anyway…
My problem is I need some new tyres that fit 16 x 8 rim on my falcon ef
Any suggestions that are not $500 each
I don’t want to buy Chinese tyres but it seems at this point it is all I can get now 😢
you must have aftermarket rims as no EF Falcon from the factory had 16x8 alloys. not even from there enhancer Tickford.
Try Hankook or Kumho. Korean tyres that are decent.