V12 Solenoid Engine | Build Slideshow
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- čas přidán 25. 08. 2024
- How I made the V12 solenoid engine - time lapse video and slideshow showing the progress of the V12 solenoid engine build. Subscribe for future engine videos. Engine description below.
Technical details:
Type: 60 degree V12 electric piston engine
Maximum RPM: 3,200 RPM
Input voltage: 24 volts dc
Speed controller: Mechanical PWM
Cylinder bore diameter: 8mm
Piston stroke length: 10mm
Total theoretical displacement: 6cc
Firing order: 1, 12, 5, 8, 3, 10, 6, 7, 2, 11, 4, 9 (Same as old type Ferrari)
Main bearing size: 4x9x4 mm (684zz)
Big end bearing size: 4x9x4 mm (684zz)
Flywheel mass: 900g
Switching transistors: 2N3055
Solenoid model: SOLEN 121E16530 (with built in flyback diode)
Total mass of engine: 6kg approximately
Exhaust emissions: zero
More information:
A solenoid engine uses the magnetic pull of solenoids to turn a crankshaft, and resembles the architecture of an internal combustion engine. The crankshaft on this engine is made up of one hundred and forty individual parts bolted together, and is fully counterweighted to balance the rotational mass. The flywheel is an old drill / lathe chuck of some sort (army surplus), the engine has a tachometer pulse generator on the rear of the timing / distributor shaft to run the red LED tachometer, it uses Meccano timing chain and sprockets, and has a key ignition switch for added style. This engine can run both as a four stroke or as a two stroke, and can switch while running. This engine does not develop much torque, certainly much less torque than a standard rotary electric motor can produce, for the equivalent power input - for this reason the solenoid engine is just a novelty and an educational model.
I built this engine for fun, from mainly scrap metal and wood, and using mostly hand tools, and a basic drill press, during autumn 2014. It is based on a single cylinder prototype I had previously made here: • FAST Solenoid Engine W...
Links:
The solenoid I used is available here: www.esr.co.uk/...
Be sure to subscribe to my channel for future new engine videos: www.youtube.com...
Check out some of the other engines I have built if you like -
My first solenoid engine #1: • Single Solenoid Engine #1
Single solenoid engine #2: • Single Solenoid Engine #2
Fast single solenoid engine #3: • FAST Solenoid Engine W...
Steam engine style solenoid engine: • Electric Steam Engine ...
V8 solenoid engine: • V8 Solenoid Engine
V12 solenoid engine - 24 volts: • V12 Solenoid Engine
V12 solenoid engine - 35 volts: • V12 Solenoid Engine Ov...
Music used on this video:
First track: Trancer - Gunnar Olsen.
Second track: Solar Flares - Silent Partner.
Both from youtube audio library
Good night David, I finished the engine today, now there are only a few details missing, but I am very happy after a long time stirring and a great fight.
I put a video on youtube, then I'll make a much more detailed video.
I thank you for your great help.
Sincerely Ricardo
Hi Ricardo, I think you did a great job building your engine, it looks great, and I think you definitely earned it.
You are welcome to my help, as you showed commitment to your engine build project.
I look forward to seeing your more detailed video.
Best wishes, David.
good night, David I have no words to thank you for taking your valuable time to answer me. God bless you
good David
I just made some nylon bushings, it was very good and weighs nothing, I had not thought about the insulating tape. thank you very much for your help and your time in answering me
Nylon bushings are a great idea. You're doing a great job Ricardo, and you are welcome to my advice.
Also have you considered having just six solid contact wires, each one controlling two solenoids? You will need a 1:1 chain ratio but the engine will be much faster this way.
This is brilliant! I NEED A PART LIST!!!! Amazing work done here mate. Fantastic progress, keep it up.
Hey thanks! Unfortunately there is no parts list as I made this off the top of my head, if I'd have had to have drawn plans it probably would never have been built.
davidrobert2007 I understand that if you were to write down how to build one of these, it would take several hours. Is it possible for you to make a video on how to exactly construct one of these? I know me and many other people would really appreciate it! Thanks for the reply anyway.
davidrobert2007 Please make the drawings of the whole parts of this engine and send to me here in Brazil 😂😂😂
good night david, about the mica I had already thought but I wasn't sure, now let me get this straight. There are 12 contact pins in the roll, every 1 contact joins another 3 in the firing order adding 4 turns on the switch turns on and splits on the transistors. That would be the scheme. And thank you so much for taking some of your time to help me with this project.
good afternoon Daivd
we are at home if we do not have another option, but we are all right here I hope you and your family are well too, so this explanation of yours is now easier to understand the circuit and the video was very good to have better clarity on how makes the triangle. thanks
Love how you did everything with very basic tools. Nice job!
Thanks!
Very nice. Aside from the whole thing, i really enjoyed how you just went on and made all parts! :) The circuit under the wood and so on... :)
Thanks!
Absolutely cool!!!
Let's put That thing on a dyno!!
good night David
I could not find on the internet the numbering of the piston tracking, the firing order you put there in the description, but the order of numbering on the engine that I am in doubt.
Another thing, after assembling the engine together with the copper pipe to rotate, yours was totally free because mine was a little heavy to rotate.
Thank you very much in advance
Ricardo
OUTSTANDING!!!!! a true master!!! well done!!
Why, thank you :)
Hi David
wonderful. now I'm going to put the angles right, with this tip you took my doubts from the angles.
about the schema being the ferrari v12 i tried to find it here but i haven't found anything yet, but i believe it will now.
Here my family is fine thanks to God, I hope yours is fine too.
Regards Ricardo
David bought a ratio of 2.1, 20 teeth on the crankshaft and 40 teeth on the copper pipe, so I think I'll have 12 rigid wires on the contact.
I have already done the math for the resistors in the electrical scheme, it will go through a current of 300ma, so very low, then I will also do the scheme of the on / off switch to unite the solenoids 4 in 4.
hugs my friend
Absolutely incredible! Superb build documentation and exceptional resulting project. I would say that you lead the industry of solenoid engine design and construction. Congratulations on this and your other fascinating projects. Art Rafael
Thanks! Your words mean a lot, as you are yourself, "one of the big boys" of the industry.
Good morning my friend David
It's just that I used a belt for the transmission there, when stretching it was a little heavy, in your case it was a chain so I believe you had no problem.
So I have this 350 gram mandrel and I have another 1,120 kg.
Grateful Ricard
Hi again. Now I understand, yes a chain will give less resistance than a belt - remember that the engine will not have much torque and the belt will slow it down a lot. If you use a belt it must be a toothed belt, to preserve synchronisation.
David.
good afternoon sir daivd
Exactly I used a toothed belt, because it got a little heavy but I think it worked.
I tried to find a transmission just like yours here in Brazil but I didn't find it, so my only option was the timing belt.
thankful Ricardo
The people who have given the thumbs down for this video should have to explain why, before their vote is accepted. Considering the components used ( threaded rod and mass produced nuts, which are generally inaccurate) this is an amazing achievement. I had to ditch my first crank for inaccuracy - yet I have a mill and lathe to work with! So I would have stood no chance doing it your way!
good night sir David.
I'm happy because I managed to align the triangular cuts on the copper tube, I had to make some changes to the shots after the sixth cylinder.
when you have time you could explain or give me a hint on how to turn on those 3 on / off keys, until now I did not understand the connection, I just remember that it is to move on to 2 times, I think that is what you commented .
Thank you Ricardo.
Hi Ricardo, congratulations on getting your triangles aligned. OK the three on / off switches - these are DPDT switches (double pole double throw) - each switch is 2 switches in 1 unit - you can use one half of one switch to connect two solenoid BASE wires, and use the other half of the same switch to connect two more solenoid BASE wires - with three DPDT switches you can connect six pairs of BASE wires for solenoid numbers 1&6, 2&5, 3&4, 7&12, 8&11, 9&10. Keep up the good work my friend. Best wishes, David.
good afternoon David
I'm going to make this triangle type mold, would it be easy for you to give me more or less the measure of this triangle, then I'll do it here until I hit the right point.
Thank you so much for taking the time to help me do this project, God bless you and your family
Hello my great friend David that the New Year brings peace, and the faith is renewed and strengthened in the heart of each one. May God guide, protect and bless everyone in your family and may this year be one of many joys, health, love and peace. Happy New Year.
Att. Ricardo and family
Hi Ricardo, thanks for your kind message, and wishing a happy new year to you and yours. David.
yes i thought the same thing, colored threads to make it easier, i bought a cable that contains 12 colored threads there i will open and separate them so i just don't know if it is too thin.
David on the copper pipe you made an aluminum sleeve to match the bearing and the diameter of the pipe or you bought a bearing the size of the pipe to imbutate inside.
Another thing, that accelerator that you did was the idea of a congratulatory genius
The rotating copper pipe works with a very small electric current and low voltage so thin wires are ok - 12 colour wires only carry a very small electric current to the BASE / GATE of the 2n3055, - we are using the 2n3055 as a switch - the small current will switch on the 2n3055, and the 2n3055 will allow the bigger electric current to flow to the solenoid.
There is no aluminium sleeve inside the copper pipe - the copper pipe has a 4mm axle bar and 4mm bearings, with more electrical tape wrapped around the 4mm axle, until it will fit the 22mm pipe - it sounds crude but it works.
The throttle arrangement is the only thing I ever invented in my life! :)
Also - I listened to this music album on repeat when I built my v12 - czcams.com/video/kOeF3aKX6ks/video.html It was later removed but it has come back now! Music to build an engine - Recommended by me.
Excelente diseño y trabajo
Interesting!
Nice background music, too.
Good work!
please make a vedio with the parts of this engine...and their dimensions...
I am a mechanical engineering student I want make this engine as my project
good night David how are you?
As the engineering is complex, I put the chuck to run along with the engine I thought it would weigh even more, but it was totally different because it was looser to run, how interesting.
hugs Ricardo
good night david
I think I figured out how to assemble the crankshaft after the first part is 120 ° to the next and after the 3rd is back to the same degree.
I needed to know what the gauge of the water pipe is and how you cut the fin in it and how I get the chain you used and the relationship of teeth between them. thank you for now, if you are not bothering me having questions I ask you.
Hi, sorry for the delay in replying. Yes the angle is 120 degrees between all three crankshaft journals. There is a lot of geometry in the design of engines, and I find it easier to understand in these terms. The water pipe is 22mm diameter approximately, and is covered with vinyl tape (electrical tape) which is cut to provide a full range of throttle settings for all cylinders. The chain is made by "Meccano" and you can find it on ebay uk. The chain ratio here is 2:1 but this only matters if you want the engine to run as a four stroke engine. You can run the engine as a two stroke engine by using a 1:1 chain ratio. I hope this helps you, and good luck with your project.
It sounds awesome!
cool music bro ;D
i really like this consept but i dont particularly like all those contacts switching on the go. i know its more easy this way but it adds a lot of inefficiency as yourself mentioned pressing on contacts is better rpm. im not sure what would be the best solution to this but im sure there is a way to avoid brushing contacts. overall great project
good night David
so you put an electrical tape on the right copper pipe, then you cut them on the electrical tape to give the contacts on the copper wire for each solenoid, so those cuts that formed a type of lying triangle, so my doubt was about how many cuts or contacts let's say as soon as you have a turn, knowing that I made the ratio of the 2 x 1 axis equal to yours, for each turn on the stock crankshaft on the copper pipe.
I don't know if I managed to express myself better.
thanks again for the strength you are giving me.
I'm still not fully understanding what you mean, please clarify some more, I will help you as much as I can.
what kind of stroke length on the crank did you get? I know you said the stroke on the solenoid was 15mm just wondering if you set stroke on crank 15mm or smaller.
The piston stroke is 10mm (full engine spec in description)
good afternoon David all right my friend, I hope everything is in God's care.
Stay this time moving the engine on how to make it light, I disassembled it 3 or 4 times but I managed to make it very loose, light.
about the cuts of the insulating tape on the copper pipe I already had to change the tape about 5 times I think there must be a secret in the maraçao, because I am marking well at the time it starts and when it ends, then it seems that it keeps pulling and doesn’t come , I don't know if I should book a little closer to the starting point.
thank you very much
Ricardo
Hi Ricardo, sorry for my delayed reply. It is a good thing for the engine to be loose and light to rotate, this will help it to be fast running.
You might need to adjust the starting point of the triangles - maybe make the starting point slightly earlier as the engine is getting toward top speed.
Best wishes, David.
Motor magnífico. Parabéns!
Thanks
Anisteiny Guimarães yo creo que el que lo ise es mas inteligente que un profe de mecanica
alright david
I saw in a comment from you that the folds of the virabrekim are 120 degrees, so is this a 120 degree fold plus a 120 degree fold plus a 120 degree fold, then after the third fold back to the same degree?
I don't understand what you mean by "virabrekim"
@@davidrobert2007
Good Morning
It is that part where the connecting rods are attached to the engine.
maybe have another name there.
but here the crankshaft is called the main motor shaft which is formed at angles.
GOOOOOD WOOORK
How did you connected pistol and connecting rod? Was it a rivet?
It is called a "roll pin" and is provided with the solenoid.
Nice work! **thumb up**
Good morning David
I was thinking here that the piston on the solenoid does not rise late, as I did a 2x1 you have to go one more round to make sure the connecting rods work, I think that's it
Make certain that your crankshaft is set up like this czcams.com/video/MPlS4TTc2QM/video.html see the pistons move in pairs - for the solenoids - switch on when the solenoid piston is fully out, switch off when the piston is fully in. I hope this helps you. Best wishes, David.
Alright David, tell me something, did you use transistor insulation? the resistors you put in the base? and those 3 switches on and off for what it is. At the moment these are my doubts. The rest I am in the middle of the project. Thanks.
Hello, I used mica insulators for the transistors, and nylon / plastic bolts with metal nuts to hold them down to the heatsink. The heatsink is also anodized and this provides another layer of insulation.
I cannot remember the value of the base resistor, but it is a high wattage, ceramic resistor, and it still gets hot.
My engine is set up to replicate a four stroke cycle engine, where the solenoids are energized every other rotation of the crankshaft.
The three DPDT switches convert the engine into a two stroke cycle (solenoids energized every rotation of the crankshaft) - the switches connect the base circuits of the six geometrically aligned pairs of solenoids so that the solenoids then "fire" in pairs, and every rotation.
I hope this helps you.
good night David about the chuck which was the measure that you put, I have an old 1/2, weighs 350 grams, or it has to be equal to the discretion that you put 900 grams.
As always thank you very much.
350 grams is ok for a flywheel, but with a heavier flywheel the engine has more resistance to work against, it makes the engine seem more "lazy" like a big truck engine - I like that - so I have a heavy flywheel. Best wishes, David.
good afternoon David, i finished assembling the engine yesterday, i went to test it didn’t turn, now i have to see where to move to make it turn, i must have let something go unnoticed, but with faith i will succeed.
I have a doubt which resistor you used mine here I put 1.8k in the base, and the other doubt what was the distance of the holes you made in the aluminum parts that go in the crankshaft, those 4mm holes that make thread after, why I think I made mine very close, there is not much going on there, the cutouts of the electrical tape are small.
Mine I drilled 6mm from the center to the side.
Everything else is fine thanks to God, hugs Ricardo
Hello Ricardo, I can't remember the resistor value that I used, but you can calculate the value - you just need to know what voltage is needed at the BASE of the 2n3055 for it to fully switch on.
How close together are the holes? I calculated this so that the holes are as close as possible without interference - this gives a short stroke engine which is fast turning.
Keep up the good work.
David.
good night david by chance u could give me a hint on how to make those cuts in the insulating tape of the 7/8 copper pipe, it's like a lying triangle, so the sizes of the cuts more or less, and the contact energizing the pipes like you did? thanks
Hi. You need to cover the whole of the rotating copper pipe with electrical tape, then, get the moving contact into position. After that, mark the electrical tape using a pen, exactly where you want the solenoid to switch on and switch off, and use a sharp blade to cut the tape to give the shape you need. Hope this helps.
Good morning David
let me see if I understood then.
There are 12 rigid wires in the connection that goes to the solenoid you put the 12 but used only 6 to connect 2 solenoids at a time?
Thankful again.
The 12 signal wires go to 12x transistor BASE (2n3055), one transistor per solenoid, to switch on the solenoid power. You must combine the signal wires on the SIX PAIRS of solenoids, through a switch. Just remember that you are converting the engine - from having 12 power pulses in two revolutions, you are converting to have 12 power pulses in one revolution. The goal is to have the solenoids pulling in pairs. I hope this helps explain it a little more. Best wishes. David.
good night David, I have a doubt here
the assembly of the soleoid is 60º I saw there in its design, and the one of the crankshaft is 60º also or is 120º to form a complete 360º
Hi Ricardo, the crankshaft is 120º, and the solenoid is 60º. My v12 engine is a copy of the Ferrari v12 structure and ignition pattern, this is how I worked out the engine structure and angles etc. I hope this helps and I hope you and your family are well. Regards, David.
good night David alright there my friend.
Between yesterday and today I made some new parts and gave the bearings more free space so it got better, something I wanted to know if when you put the copper roller it gave a heavy spin, because mine weighed a little, this week I will see if assemble the rigid firing wires.
David, I was analyzing when turning the crankshaft that the pistons that go up together are always on the same side, I think you have to pull alternating 1 on each side or it can be 2 on 1 side and 2 on the other.
or do I have to connect a solenoid and turn the roller 1 turn to connect another one?
Thank you for the strength that God bless you and your family
Hello Ricardo, can you clarify - how do you mean the copper roller weighed a little? Do you mean it is not free spinning? If so then it should be easy to spin / free spinning. It is ok to fire two pistons that go up together on the same side. The goal is for every solenoid to have maximum contribution to the overall engine, so switch on when piston is fully out, switch off when piston is fully in, and to have variable power duration for adjustable engine speed. On the v12 design there is overlap so that there is always solenoids pulling on both sides, but they are at different levels. Imagine it is 12 separate engines that each need switching on and off at their own times. I hope this helps you. Best wishes, David.
boa tarde
good afternoon David,
I bought yesterday the water pipe 7/8, which measures 2.2cm in diameter.
I need to find out how you made the tape cutouts.
There on ebay I found the toothed crown and the pine tree and the chain but I don't know what the specification of the numbering is,
Here in Brazil there is nothing like it, because I have already searched the internet and I did not find it.
I thank you very much for your attention for your time.
The tape cutouts - with the pipe fully covered with tape, mark the tape with a pen, where the solenoid needs to switch on, and switch off, and then cut the tape with a sharp blade. The timing gears and chain - personally I would run the engine as a two stroke, so would use a 1:1 gear ratio, you can get a model chain here in the uk, on ebay, it is called "delrin chain", you might be able to get this. Good luck, and I hope this helps you. ps, I liked your v8 engine!
good night David
I think I understand, could you tell me what type of tool you made to separate the triangles and leave it aligned, because I'm afraid to make the hand and leave crooked.
You can make the tool out of cardboard or thick paper, and mark it with a pen. Basically it is two pen marks which can give the even spacing of the triangles.
good morning sir David
Everything is fine my friend, and your restoration of the bike is going as planned?
I don't know how to explain it but I'm not able to understand how I do the solenoids together, the junction I know how it is, what I don't understand as the solenoids are delayed by 30º the firing will not be out of order?
Another thing, if I add the solenoids do I use all the contacts against the copper pipe?
this part that I am not understanding, I must put a diode to not return and the solenoid and not connect in the wrong position, because if I join the ones that will pull at the same time, the transistor sends a signal will connect the others.
It is a bit confusing here, but calmly and your help I will get.
Grateful Ricardo
Hello Ricardo, yes the bike is coming together well - I have had the engine running and it sounds very good :)) My very own VFR800.
The best way to look at the problem you have - ask the question "how to fire all 12 solenoids within 2 crankshaft rotations" (this is the four stroke engine, where the solenoid pairs fire alternately). And then ask the question "how to fire all 12 solenoids within 1 crankshaft revolution" (this is the two stroke engine, where the solenoid pairs fire together). Once you understand the concept you will see that it is a very simple system.
I will put a video together to help you work this out, as I need to get my v12 engine running again and I will need to make new triangles for it.
You will win this battle my friend, keep slowly working at the goal.
Best wishes, David.
Alright David, with great cost I got the solenoids there from the United Kingdom, because being here from Brazil I have more difficulties but all right this week the solenoids came and I already have 2n3055 just missing me to find out how to make the crankshaft in the correct position And for you, you used those relays that you used and how will I do to find out the relationship of crown and pinecone to make the electric shots for the commands. Hugs
Hello. I'd like to try and help, please can you clarify what you mean by "crown and pinecone". You are doing good work.
Hello good Morning
there on the copper pipe to give the contact to the solenoid you told me it was to make the cut with a stylus, then those cuts, in the image you posted I believe it is enlarged because it is quite large, but I think it is small, so how many cuts it would make in the pipe in 1 complete turn.
Hi again, I'm still not exactly sure what you mean about the cuts, sorry bro. Could you word your question in a different way then maybe I will understand. I will help you in any way I can, your engine looks very good so far.
I just got those solenoids that you used and I have a question. what connector did you use to hook those up? it would save me some time looking for them.
Hi, I think the connectors I used were DuPont 2.54mm plugs, available on ebay. Just double check the pin spacing before you commit.
good night David
I don’t know which rigid wire you used to make the contacts, but here I used the 6mm wire I think it’s too thick because I’ve been trying to hit the ends of the copper roller for 2 days and I can’t even, it’s hurting my fingers with so much pulling and push, do you happen to have any tips? Another thing about what you gave me about the connections of the contacts with the solenoids and the schematic of how the connection of the 3 switches was turned off, if you can explain to me again, type after the contacts trip
how do I make the calls, like going to the solenoids then back to the 3 keys, then back to the solenoid again, can you explain me again thank you.
As always, thank you very much for your help.
Hello Ricardo, the 6mm wire is way too thick, the wire that I used was no more than 2mm copper core diameter.
The three switches are dpdt switches, and they are set up to combine the signal current of the six pairs of solenoids that move together, so that when one solenoid of the pair is switched on, the switch allows the other solenoid of the pair to also be switched on. This is joining the trigger / signal wire between the rotating copper pipe and the BASE / GATE of the 2n3055 transistor.
The purpose of this is to allow the engine to be an accurate four stroke engine, where each solenoid will be switched on for only one power pulse for every two revolutions of the crankshaft.
The four stroke set up is very slow and sluggish in a solenoid engine - two stroke is much faster and better, this is why I suggested just set up as a two stroke, with only six pipe segments, each controlling two solenoids. It's just an idea. I hope this helps. David.
beautiful! when i watched the other video i thought those were ordered CNC built parts but you made everything yoursef! Kudos!
Few questions - how did you adjust crankshaft angle from segment to segment? it seems to me that was problematic because they segments are connected with threaded rod? Also have you done anything with inductive kickback? If you havent, I think you could get some RPM from that
Thanks - yes, no machining was done in the making of this engine, all of the aluminium parts were formed using hand tools and a cheap Chinese drill press. The crankshaft angle is easy to adjust / set, as the crank segments are held by flanged lock nuts, these can be slackened off to allow adjustment between segments, to give three pairs of crankpins set 120 degrees apart. The effect of this adjustment does cause the crankshaft to physically get slightly longer or shorter due to the nature of threaded rod, but as the main bearings are held by pinch bolts they can have a bit of movement, and this solves the problem. Not sure what you mean by inductive kickback, is that what I would call "back emf" (the reverse voltage spike you get when the coil is disconnected)?
Hi David
So, I tried to find on the internet how is the numbering of the solenoids, but I only got the firing order graph, that I found a lot, but with the numerals in one and look that I already researched a lot, maybe I don't know by the right word on Google for research.
The other thing is the following, due to the logic when a solenoid pulls from one side and the other will be opposite, being pulled alternately one from the right one from the left, I believe it is so, please correct me if I am wrong. The question is, when the crankshaft is turning a connecting rod it will be closer to the solenoid than the other because as it rotates only to one side the solenoid that is in the inside course will arrive earlier than the other that comes from the outside, I don't know if I managed to be clear, if you look at your engine from the front and turn it with your hand and you pay attention to the connecting rod that is going up to a solenoid if it has to work interspersed with one on the right and one on the left, the other goes up a little late due and connecting rod I came out, hopefully I managed to express myself.
another thing the 2n3055 transistors were trying without the mica isolator, I made a protection circuit but I think it will not work, on the test bench it worked, but I only did it with one piece, now with everyone I'm not sure it works, maybe I will have to do the same as yours, then I have to see what resistor you put and where, if it was on the base of the emitter or collector.
David a big hug friend.
Grateful Ricardo
Hello Ricardo, for solenoid numbering search google "ferrari v12 cylinder numbering" - for a two stroke v12 engine you would pair solenoids 1&6, 2&5, 3&4, 7&12, 8&11, 9&10 - power them as pairs because they move in pairs. Four stroke engine does not switch the pairs together, instead it does one and then the other on the next rotation. You should not have solenoids that are working against each other.
The resistor has to go on the base of the 2n3055, the reason is that only a very small voltage is needed to switch on the 2n3055. Google search "2n3055 data sheet" and you will see what voltage you need to give a "switched on" state to the 2n3055, you can then calculate what resistor value you need to achieve this voltage with your power supply. You will probably need to use a ceramic resistor with higher watts to handle the power dissipation.
I used mica insulators, nylon / plastic bolts (with metal nuts on top), and anodized heat sink for the 2n3055 - 3 forms of insulation - because as you know the casing is live on the 2n3055 ;)
Best wishes, David.
Good afternoon, today I bought the 10mmx10mm aluminum squares I don't know if that's right, I also bought the bearings, another thing I analyzed in your video that the connecting rod bearings are bigger because the connecting rod plate is wider, could you confirm me? From the size of the bearings you passed I deduced that the main shaft is 4mm, is that right?
Thanks for the compliment of my v8 engine, I built it when I was in the 1st year of electronics school did not understand much, I found its fascinating so the challenge of assembling one.
hugs have a great week.
Hello again. Yes 10mm x 10mm aluminium is ok. In my engine, all of the bearings are the same size, the connecting rod plate is wider than the bearing so it appears to be wider, but it is not. You are right, the main shaft is 4mm. Keep up the good work.
good night David
here in brazil we are not able to leave the house because of the covid 19, there i am moving the engine, there watching your video over there on the board that you fixed the transistors 2n3055 has 2 on / off switches what are they for? do I have to put it on?
Hello, we have the same situation in the UK right now, I hope you and your family are keeping safe, these are difficult times. So it could be a good time to work on engines.
Regarding the triangles - remember that the triangle size and shape depends on how you want to set the engine up - how much "on time" for the solenoid at different speed settings, and it has to be customised for each engine.
OK the 2 on / off switches choose between 2 stroke engine / 4 stroke engine. The v12 engine has 6 aligned pairs of solenoids - when the switches are "on" the 6 aligned pairs of solenoids are running together, the switches join up 6 pairs of trigger wires.
Imagine this in simple form as a 2 cylinder parallel engine running as a 4 stroke - the pistons fire one after the other - and then we join up the trigger circuit of both cylinders and then they both fire together - this is what I did with the v12. I hope this helps, and let me know if you need any more help.
good afternoon sir david, so i haven't arrived yet but i wanted to go ahead with the work on the copper pipe covered with electrical tape, i bought the pipe 7/8 i'm doing a 2 by 1 ratio, similar to yours. If you can help me with the following question, I would like to know how many cuts the tape has in a turn in the pipe. I don't know if I managed to pass on my doubt with the question.
Hi again. Can you clarify what you mean by "how many cuts" I don't understand, sorry. I will try to help as much as I can.
ok, tomorrow morning i will try again, because i have been trying for 2 days and nothing, i already changed the electrical tape i think about 5 times, and then i have to dismantle a part to remove the copper pipe.
David can I do it in order of 4 parts until the end and then just organize the flashing?
I don't understand what you mean by "do it in order of 4 parts"
good night David
I was thinking about something today, how will I know which way the motor will turn, because everything will mount and the motor will rotate contrary to what it is to rotate the copper roller, or no problem.
Do you have any tricks to do it right?
Another thing, today I put a 1.5mm rigid wire, it was a lot better, I left the size of 5cm in length, is it okay?
thank you
Hi Ricardo, most car engines rotate clockwise when viewed from the front (timing chain end). The engine is designed to rotate in one direction only, the reason for this is that the timing chain tensioner is placed on the slack side of the chain, if you turn the engine backwards (counter clockwise) then the chain tensioner is under load / pressure that it is not designed for.
The 1.5mm wire will be fine for the rotating switch, 5cm may be too long, because the wires need to have some pressure onto the copper pipe. Watch the later videos of my v12 - you can see I have added a "spring pusher leg" to add pressure on the 1.5mm wires, and it runs better because of this.
Best wishes, David.
Hi Devid can I buy it because I need it for my experiment, but I don't have the equipment to create it.
hello good night David
I have a doubt here, first, how do I number the solenoids on the engine, for me you know the respective connections (1,12,5,8 ........)
another question is it?
I tried to make the connections here from 1 and 12 which can be anywhere, the doubt is the piston 12 always goes up a little, but late in relation to 1, if you want to be the same I must have done something wrong here, but I was analyzing is that one connecting rod comes from the inside and the other comes from the outside, the course is longer.
from already thank you
Ricardo.
Hi Ricardo, how to number the solenoids and for the firing order / sequence? - You copy an existing design - I copied the Ferrari V12 design for numbering and sequence. Could you expand on the second part of the question, I'm not sure that I understand where you're coming from. Best wishes, David.
hello sir David
I have a problem here, in fact I don't know what I'm doing wrong, but the copper pipe that is insulated with electrical tape, I don't know how to explain it but it's been 2 days since I've been trying to make those markings that you taught me through the video but my marking not from the sequence is all interspersed, does not make the same sequence as yours, like a screw thread, by chance you would have a tip to help me.
Thank you very much for the tips so far. Ricardo
Hello Ricardo, you need to have the rigid / solid wire contacts in order of the firing sequence of the engine. If the engine is set as a four stroke engine then a solenoid will fire every 30 degrees of copper pipe rotation, so the triangles are 30 degrees apart, and wired up in order of firing sequence.
On my demonstration video - this engine is a two stroke, the copper pipe turns same speed as crankshaft, so the copper triangle occupies up to half of the copper pipe circle (at the widest part / full speed setting), if your engine is a four stroke then the copper pipe turns at half of crankshaft speed, so one rotation of the crankshaft = half of one rotation at the copper pipe, so the triangles need to be smaller, they can occupy up to one quarter (1/4) of the copper pipe circle because the thing is turning at half speed.
I do hope this helps you.
Best wishes my friend.
David.
good night David, how are you? I hope you and your family are well.
boy I'm excited about the engine design, too bad I don’t have your whatsaap otherwise I’ve already sent some videos of him that I did today.
yesterday I posted a video on youtube giving a tip to people on how to make a very simple tool to remove that elastic pin from the solenoid.
tomorrow I'm going to go to those contacts that touch the bronze pipe, the image of yours I saw that you pierced the tube and passed the rigid wire inside and I think you took 2 turns if I'm not mistaken, David who was the number of the wire that you after the rigid to get to the solenoid and another question, what was the distance of each hole you made to wrap the rigid wire, tomorrow I want to start this part.
May God bless your family
Sincerely Ricardo
Hi Ricardo, we are doing well thank you, still have to stay inside at the moment. Unfortunately I don't have whatsapp, I'm a bit old fashioned I guess. The wires between the rigid (solid wire contact of rotating drum) and the 2n3055 - I purchased some 12 core wire from ebay (only a small amount) so all 12 wires were individually identifiable by colour code, so I could tell which wire for which solenoid. The distance between each hole (holes for the rigid / solid wire to pass through on the throttle) is 19mm, same as the electrical tape width. I did not design my engine to accommodate 12 electrical tape wide throttle - it was a pure coincidence that the width was perfect! Please do ask more questions if you need to. Best wishes to you and your family, David.
what size threaded rod did you use on crank for those 4x9x4mm bearings? also where did you get the aluminum blocks on the crank that you offset crank with?
I used 4mm threaded rod on the crank, and the aluminium blocks I made from a piece of 3/8"x1/4" aluminium bar if I recall correctly.
OK...I sure appreciate you answering my questions...I am going to attempt something like this for a little hobby.
You're welcome - and good luck with your build!
do you have a ball bearing or anything on crank for connecting rods?
Hi, I used tiny 4x9x4mm roller bearings for both the main bearings and big end bearings.
what length of stroke did you use on crank? what it the same as solenoid 15mm or shorter?
Are you making by your self those solenoids or you buy them ??
I bought them in, link is in the description.
I did it like this to mark the cuts with the pen, in the order of firing there the cuts were all weird, one up, one down, another in the middle, I don't think it's right, because yours is well synchronized, then I removed the tape and I put another one and changed the appointment but it was also disorganized then I removed the tape again, then I did another appointment and also stayed out, then I will leave it for tomorrow more calmly, suddenly I think what I am doing wrong.
Yes definitely take your time with it. It is possible to have the triangles in any order you like, just as long as they are wired correctly. For the screw thread appearance the rigid contact wires must be in order of firing sequence, and with triangles that occupy one quarter of the pipe circumference. But take your time. I am restoring a Honda motorcycle right now (with V4 engine!), and similar - I have to take very much time to do this work, but we will reach the goal eventually my friend.
Best wishes,
David.
Please can you make vidio how you build rotating part
that is absolutely sick bro, nice work. I was wondering how that would compare at the shaft vs a DC motor running at the same input current which I saw yours running at 25 volts @ 1 amp
Hey thanks Rit Man. Compared to a DC motor the solenoid engine will produce far less torque, for the same power input, and so the engine is just a novelty for fun. Do check back soon, as I will be posting a video of the v12 running on 35 volts dc, and this adds to the performance, somewhat.
DEFINITELY
Very cool ! I noticed that the fire order is 1-2-3-4-5 etc May i use another one like this 1-7 2-8 3-5 - 4-10 5-11 6-12 sorry my english
what size and weight flywheel did you use and is there a formula to figure that out?
The flywheel on this engine is a part of an old lathe chuck, I selected it as it seemed to be in proportion to the engine, and was very heavy (just under 1kg). I like a heavy flywheel, it gives the engine something to work against.
+davidrobert2007 how did you get these solenoid? I searched for a long time , but I have not found.
There is a link to a supplier of these in the video description, although I'm not sure if they are still available. Ebay is a good place to buy solenoids if not.
А если коленвал сделать одной шейкой а на неё посадить Нное количество шатунов а "цилиндры" разместить по кругу. Импульс подавать после ВМТ на каждый цилинр. По типу самолетного ДВС.
Did u used transistor as a switch?
Yes.
is this motor also efficient? how much HP could have vs a brushless dc motor?
Porque mejor no pública con PDF con todas las medidas y materiales para que se nos facilite mas
Voce conseguiria mover uma bicicleta com este motor? Se sim, qual seria a velocidade dela?
good David alright buddy so i got a little discouraged with the engine work that the small parts went wrong but i will resume the project again i will be more careful when doing the threads that should be the secret of the thing i'm doing the holes at a distance of 0.6 mm from each other and the size of the total pieces of 2 cm, why is that what you did?
Good if we do not talk another Merry Christmas, you and your family. If you have any further questions, I will contact you.
Hello again, it's good that you've found some enthusiasm for the engine build again, when your engine is finished and running, you will have earned it.
As for the small crankshaft parts, I drilled the holes with a drill press, and I cut the threads by hand using a drill press (switched off) and an M4 tap. The drill press almost guarantees the hole will be straight, and I also used flanged nuts to keep everything straight.
I drilled the holes as close together as possible without causing interference, as this gives the shortest possible piston stroke, and therefore a fast running engine ;)
Merry Christmas.
David.
Can this engine rotate in both directions?
Is there any way u could like do a video or post a picture of the dimensions and measurements I would really appreciate it.
Unfortunately I don't have any designs for it as I designed it as I went along. Start with the crankshaft and then make everything else fit around that.
@@davidrobert2007 I go to say u got really good craftsmanship to do stuff like that
how did you make the speed control mechanism?
The rotating part is made of copper water pipe and electrical tape, and the static part is made from aluminium tube and insulated copper wire.
Hi David
come on, on the 7/8 copper pipe, you put an electrical tape over the entire pipe, then at the point where an electric current has to pass you made a small cut in the contact position, this is the cut I'm talking about, and that's in your video it is quite big but I think it is small, so I was wondering if there is any secret for me to make these cuts in the electrical tape to pass the electrical contact, I don't know if I could explain it properly
OK now I understand. So first you need to have the contact wires in place on the copper pipe, so you can see where the contact point is. Then one at a time - mark the electrical tape with a pen - solenoid switch ON point, and solenoid switch OFF point for both SLOW and FAST running. Then carefully cut between the "slow on" point and the "fast on" point, and then cut between the "slow off" point and the "fast off" point, and this is how you make the triangle. Do one at a time. Make a tool to space apart the triangles by 30° (360° / 12) so that the beginning will line up with the end. I hope this helps explain it, let me know if you need any more help.
Great vid man! Now, i want to build one too.How did you made the pvc pipe with the copper foils on it? And just simply splitted 180° into 12 parts?
Sorry for my english, never learned, just internet, you know. :)
Hey thanks! The distributor shaft is actually made of copper water pipe, wrapped with electrical tape, and the bare copper sections are set 30° apart (360° / 12) to give regular firing intervals. I hope this helps ;)
how to make that arrangement(copper sections) sir ...would u plzz explain...
Why not use a crank trigger and a micro controler to control engine RPM? It would always work and never need the cleaning!
I have put much thought into this but I'm not convinced that it would work as the pulse duration needs to vary with engine speed, throttle position and engine load, so the micro controller would need a signal to switch on, and also a signal to switch off, for each solenoid. However I agree in theory it would be better to use electronics rather than water pipe and electrical tape to fire the solenoids. Cheers!
davidrobert2007 Old mustangs work the same way, what they do is just change the pulse of the injectors to increase rpm, your engine could be done the same exact way. the greater the pulse the faster it goes, it's doing the same thing the water pipe is doing.
What would be need about it, is that you could try many different firing control, and you could time the control to exactly where it needs to be so there would be zero fighting between solenoids on the crank.
It could easily be done, in fact it's already been done by simple microcontrolers in just about every car running today :)
How much to build me just the solenoid engine say a v6 or v8, and I'll build a engine control module for it and a crank trigger. It's one of those things, I gotta see this work now :)
i didn't get the wiring thing can you do it more simple !! ... thanks btw great work :D
The second video of my single solenoid engine has a circuit diagram at the end, the v12 engine uses the same electrical circuit x12. Thanks for commenting.
Como consigo o projeto do virabrequim?
good afternoon David alright with you hope so
So about the engine I am doing the student parts again and I will take care more when making the threads so as not to bend.
When I resume work and I have any questions I ask you.
Hi again. I made my threads using a drill press, switched off, I put the thread tap into the drill press chuck, and cut the threads slowly by hand. The drill press keeps everything straight. I had to re make a bunch of parts when I built my engine as well, don't let that put you off. Good luck.
What kind of solenoid are you used?
+ikarusvangarden Oh i saw it in the other video. Thanks for sharing this amazing job
Great Engine!
Where you got those connecting rod (pleuel)? I really need them, please tell me.
Hi. I made the connecting rods from thin aluminium plate.
@@davidrobert2007 Thanks :)
Hi david, can you explain or show a diagram for the electric part? the transistors and stuff. Thanks a lot!!
And you're welcome ;)
good afternoon David
I started the assembly of the crankshaft, now only lacking the necessary degrees, tried the afternoon interact today but could not, but tomorrow give this necessary 120º. hugs, I would send you the video here but it will not, I'll put it on my channel if you want to take a look
Hello again. In what way do you mean lacking the necessary degrees? I will help you in any way I can. I will look for your video.
@@davidrobert2007
So, knowing how to make the right angles to move one way to another, if it's 90º was easy, but you told me it's 120º
@@chapelao2006 Look at it like a clock face - 12 o'clock, 4 o'clock and 8 o'clock are all 120 degrees apart.
Drill a hole in the centre point of a protractor and slide it over the end of the crankshaft, to help set the angles.
alright david i'm in trouble i think the aluminum parts i made were out of medium or the holes the drill drilled crookedly on the workbench when i rotate the shaft it feels like it is pressing on one side and turning to the other side loose , I think I'll have to do the little pieces again, I tried to loosen but I couldn't, but the fight goes on. hugs
@@chapelao2006 hey, sorry to hear that. The best way is to use a drill press to drill the holes and to cut the threads, to guarantee it will be straight. I used a very cheap basic drill press to do this. I feel your pain in the build process. Tomorrow is another day, and keep on trying, friend.
What is the total cost of making this engine?
Hey! Where did you get those connecting rods?
I made them myself from thin aluminium plate.
Hi, I would like to use your TCC engine at university and I wanted to know if you can pass me the measurements used?
which DC source you have used?? what is it's voltage??
24v dc from batteries.
You havent showen the wireing
What if I 3D printed all this? O.O
that is reley cool
IT would be good to to pout a calibrat load and show your effensey at difent RPMs
Hey thanks. I will be testing the engine under load in a future video, driving a generator or some such.
I think car moters are 50 to 60 % effent.
how to buy it
wht material are the "pistons" made from ?
Steel.