Upper Control Arm and Coil Spring Replacement - 66 Mustang
Vložit
- čas přidán 30. 01. 2021
- DISCLAIMER: These videos show my way of doing things. Don't necessarily follow my advice, I could be wrong. You are responsible for your actions. Not me. D
Eaton MC1240 coil springs for a stock height and feel suspension rebuild. - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Such a great video! I know there is so much more that goes into these videos than most people realize so thank you so much for putting this together!
Here's my experience after having completed the same task (7 months later). I purchased new spring perches instead of doing a refurbish job, the new perches come with new rubber tabs that prevent squeaking as the UCA moves up and down. Also the video does not mention that the spring perches need to be tighten to 37 ft/pounds not just tightened down. I would also highly recommend cleaning and protecting the metal using POR15 behind the coil spring area, this area cannot be cleaned once the spring is installed. Video is well done. Thumbs Up
I replaced my spring perches in a later video with roller spring perches. Really an awesome upgrade.
Good video and good reply.@@mechtrician1
This is a big help for me, wasn’t sure I could hang the spindle on the lower control arm because I am replacing everything. Thank you
The only way to learn anything is to do it !!! Don't apologize. Sounds like you completed the job correctly. Fine job in my view.
Thank you I changed my upper control arm yesterday on my 68 and this helped me out a ton
I gonna upgrade my springs and upper control arms next year. After I remove everything I'm gonna sand and paint all the sheet metal. I actually love doing stuff like this, I will admit I'm a little scared to put the springs under tension, very dangerous as you mentioned.
What size grease fitting did you end up using? Internet says a 1/4-28 tapered but most kits offering 90 degree fittings seem to just be "straight" and not tapered?
I am in the process of reinstalling my coil springs and the saddles are new. As I place the new coil against the spring stop the saddle is stuck in the down position with no movement. I am hoping that once I start to decompress the coil compressor the back end of the saddles will level out and the coil will fall into place. Any tips our advice would be greatly appreciated.
Yes, when you decompress the spring it will level it out. Just guide the spring into the stop as you decompress it.
Did I miss something ? Where did you get the R/P steering from ? Any review on the rack ?
It doesn’t have R/P steering. Just factory PS, it’s all stock.
you in a stang club? i haven't joined a club , but follow SJ club. im in the bay was going to do a 66 raked muscle car, but after getting started went to resto/touring . about to do the rear axle next , drove up
and down the street , was nice very stiff , love it.
I’m not in a club. I’m not that serious about it. Just a guy that likes to tinker.
@@mechtrician1 yeah ive been in norcal chevelle elco club for few years ago , but have joined up with a stang group yet,
Leafs in the rear?
Yes
cool vid , but since you had it out do Shelby drop , cut 1' to 2' off spring, weld the control arm bolts , paint the wheel well (rustoleum) . replace the saddle (why would you use the old saddle on new arm , its 20 bucks) tear out the mud flappers, Bilstein shocks. Seal the holes(water will find its way back) thats just for starters... i mean since you already at that point.
It’s meant to just be a driver. The car is so original, I don’t want to change anything really.
I did replace the saddles in a later video. I installed roller perches.
What’s water? I live in SoCal lol! 😂
@@mechtrician1 yeah after watch n your vid i fig its OG pony, thats cool, my engine was already swapped along with most of the body, so i went resto mod,
Yeah good vid mate but you paid by the hour? So much irrelevant stuff.
Not paid at all dude. I volunteer my time, nothing else in it for me. I know some folks think I talk too much, some people like it.