Front Suspension Upgrade | 1965 Mustang | Forgotten Fastback
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- čas přidán 22. 04. 2013
- Bill shows you how to upgrade the front suspension on your 1965 Fastback Mustang.
In this installation video, Bill demonstrates how to upgrade a front suspension in CJ's 1965 Forgotten Fastback project car. Before the upgrade, the Forgotten Fastback's suspension was beyond poor, with two 4x4s for springs and several loose parts.
In order to make the Fastback a Mustang with modern updates, we've decided to install a stock-style suspension with a few performance upgrades, which will provide a better handling experience. For springs, upper and lower control arms, and a strut rod kit, we've chosen top-quality products from Scott Drake.
Mustang Scott Drake Coil Springs 1965-1966:
www.cjponyparts.com/scott-drak...
These springs allow your Classic Mustang to take advantage of the latest suspension technology and perform more like a modern sports car. They provide a fairly stock smooth ride during normal driving, but as the springs compress under load (primarily during braking and cornering) they progressively become firmer to offer the handling characteristics similar to our 600 pound performance springs.
Mustang Scott Drake Lower Control Arm Assembly 1965-1966:
www.cjponyparts.com/scott-drak...
These lower control arms are the finest available and feature the original riveted design for a more authentic look. They are painted black and natural steel gray and come with a ball joint, grease seal, a washer and nut and a cotter key.
Mustang Scott Drake Upper Control Arm Assembly 1965-1966:
www.cjponyparts.com/scott-drak...
These upper control arms are the finest reproductions available and are not rebuilt, but rather all new. They're painted black and natural steel gray, come ready to install, and include the bushings, ball joint, but with cotter key and washers with locking nuts.
Check out more 1964-1973 Mustang Suspension parts from CJ's here:
Product Link: www.cjponyparts.com/1964-1973-...
Subscribe to CJ Pony Parts on CZcams here:
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Never get bored of watching this
Great video, since I couldn't find exactly what I need on my 66 Fairlane this video shows basically the same layout so thank you!
Damn dude. You guys put a lot of work into this. I started out watching you guys chop the front end out of this thing for an aftermarket K-Member.
I added the other suspension kit and a few issues with it. The lower control arm stud on ball joint has the locking hole for cotter pin drilled to low on stud. I had to grind groove in castle nut deeper to get pins in. Upper control arms have zerk fittings but if you use supplied zerks
there is no room to grease them once control arm is installed. You need to get 90 degree zerks. The last issue was getting the coil springs installed. The pads on spring saddles are so stiff and angled outward making less room to get inside edge of spring in. The lip to hold end of lower spring needed to be bent inward to catch end of spring. I’m hoping things get looser after driving, it seems very stiff to turn spindles right now. Good luck.
One of the best installation vids I've seen! Thanks! I almost think I could do it but don't have some of the tools and the lift which looks like it is pretty much a necessity, so will have it done by a car guy/mechanic I know and trust. Good stuff.
Glad it helped
Brilliant Video!! I am about to do exactly this and was a bit lost so thank god for you guys and your video. Cheers
Great Video and Great Snap-On tools. I use the same tools on my 66 Mustang
Very informative. Thank You!
.......I've never seen front suspension come apart so easily! I did all of this on my 73 stang and you either have the forearms of the hulk or it hasn't been that long since those parts have been apart. However, it's a great looking setup!
Nice job, man!!
Very helpful thanks Guys
I love how the inner tie rods remove easily for you from the steering link. Mine are not breaking free at all!
The "Shelby/Arning Drop" and roller perches would be a smart move.
Nice job ,
I just changed the lower control arm and strut rod and tie rod ends on one side of a 63 comet. Same set up. Except I didnt have a lift and the bolts were rusted on after all those years. It took me 16 hours. Still have not finished one side - but getting closer.
Thank you for sharing this info! 63 Comet and no lift is our exact situation too.
felicidades buenos vídeos y buen trabajo te saludo desde rosarito,baja california mexico
superb video, clear & concise, it may take me a bit longer...
I like to see 1965 oil pan removed and gasket replaced , I know you have made a video but can not find it again . Thank you . P.S. I have enjoyed , all of them.
Cj pony parts do you have a video on removing brake calipers for paint
When installing the end links for the sway bar is the nut applied a specific torque ? and does it matter if the nut is on the top or bottom of the control arm. Plus on the strut rod between the bushings I have a metal sleeve where the rod attaches to the frame is it needed??
You mentioned at the end to leave the control are loose so when you lower the car the bushings won't bind up. Are you referring to the LCA? Do you tighten it down once it's on the ground? Thanks!
how similar is this process to replacing the suspension on a 68?
your videos are way better then AM's videos.
That's going to be one squeaky mustang! Poly urethane = squeaks.
Cool videos from CJ, but what about Factory torque settings for each screw ??? Don t forget that you can t fix everything with one key, you must check the torque value for your screw specially when it s for safety
I remember putting springs in my 66 back in the late 80's. The old springs were torched out. The new springs were muscled in without a spring compressor. I know they were 600# supposedly with 1 inch lowering. What I can't remember is where I bought them. Front end is very stiff with a 1 inch sway bar, KYB's and poly bushings. I also have 5 leaf springs and poly bushings out back with a sway bar. Car handles great but don't do this if you do not like a very firm ride quality. And everyone should hire this guy to make those ball joints fall out that easy. Just kidding...
Bill, what are the two beveled washers for that come with the lower control arms? Also, where the strut rod connects to the lca I have what appears to be a steering stop that goes between, is this a necessary part? Thanks...
Could you do this with the motor in the car?
Shouldn't things like the upper and lower control arms, be torqued to a certain limit??
Does this fit the Scott drake four bolt spindles?
Great Video. Probably one of the most informative I have seen. I like the installatiion estimate. (with a lift and no engine) What is the total cost of the parts installed? I need to do this exact same thing with my 65 FB. Is it a kit?
Click on the link below the "published on" date above and it will take you to our suspension page. Click on Suspension Kits on the left and page through until you find what you need. We have different kits for engine options, steering, etc but they start around $700 for the complete kit as shown here.
Good video but please, please point out that there are proper torque specs for a lot of those components. The pitman arm alone is about 100 ft-lbs. You are shown installing it with a crescent wrench! Don't need your pitman arm coming loose at 65mph! And I think you forgot the spring perch on top of the coil spring!
will this kit work on a 66 coup ?
You guys don't sell the whole kit together?
Hey Bill, Do you have a vid for the Rod and Custom Rear Independent suspension install for 65-68 mustang?
Sorry no we do not.
So the car will only need one pitman arm right ? This my first classic mustang
The car was originally a V8 car but it had some I6 suspension installed so we could move it around once the body work was finished.
We have plans to change out the steering box in the future so there was no reason to clean up the parts while we were there. Like all our videos we are showing you the concept of the installation, you can make changes to your specific install as you go.
Hello sir, I want to build myself a car.. I have no experience nor the knowledge to do so. What is the right path to do so?
Question for BILL or anyone...do you have to remove the spindle from the drum brakes if you are re-using the same drum brake setup? Also, if I was changing everything ..is it as much of a nightmare as folks say ?
You can unbolt the spindle and drum as one assembly if you wanted to. This car was stripped down and was apart before so this is far easier than it would be on a typical classic Mustang, we are just showing you the basic process here.
Bill, I will be doing a suspension upgrade while on jack stands which I know will be a lot more difficult. Anyway, where is the best place to place the jack stands so I have the room necessary to do the work needed? Is it a good idea to use 2 sets of jack stands and again if so, where should I put them? I was told a good place to jack up the front is under the cross member bar.
+William Bernhart Under the firewall where the front frame rail sections meet, Right where it turns to go flat.
Wish my front suspension came apart that easily.
what is the part number for this kit?
What is the price for this complete kit
Forgotten Fastback?
One does not simply, "forget" a fastback.
Elmo one word: Ford
Not worth working on because by the end of the day it will brake down again. XD
1015Raiders I enjoy all cars, well not all god example is the fiat multipla
What is the price for this kit?
Do you grease the upper and lower control arm ball joints before or after installing?
I greased them after they were boited on but before they had any weight.
I want to see it with the engine in the car.
Where is the information on how to get these parts?
anyone know a video that shows how to compress a coil spring like that, without a part being edited out? I'm having a lot of difficulty getting the coil springs for my mustang to compress enough to get them in, and one just came loose from the compresser
+RDSUnforgivable .... Please do not use those spring compressors from the auto store. You will get really hurt!
+RDSUnforgivable Im not computer savvy, I can not figure out how to upload a photo here. Send me your email and I will send you a picture of this spring compressor that my mechanic buddy welded up for me. Much safer!
+RDSUnforgivable .... I'm on my wife's login side note. She wouldn't know what a spring compressor is... so just say "forward to Matt"
+Megan Conerly Dont worry, I modified the spring compressor and got it to work no problem, now all I have left on the mustang are the front brake lines and the engine itself, thank you for your concern nonetheless, anyways, I work in a lab far more hazardous than a coil spring compressor.
RDSUnforgivable Ok fair enough. I used one of those from the auto store and it somehow slipped and about broke my hand, leg and face... I was very lucky.
The red deep socket has a torque spec or could be any socket?
It is just a regular socket.
Like the way You fudged over the coil spring installation. NO way You just released the compressor in that position with the compressor bolt off center. Also why didn't You detail the steering box and idler arm bracket while suspension was apart?
What front suspension did the original mustang fastback have?
Looks to be 6 cyl setup originally
Hey Bill, names Miguel. Wanted to see if you could help me out on how to restore my 1965 Mustang Coupe.
We have done lots of videos on various repairs and restoration work and will be doing a full build on this fastback called Project 50/30. Make sure you subscribe for more updates and give us a call if you have any specific questions.
would this fit a 70 ford maverick???
The style of the suspension is the same but not all parts are interchangeable.
But why would you upgrade from 2x4 springs? Those are the shiznit, yo!
Take a shot every time he says socket
No brake shoes or springs on the front brakes..."something you prepared earlier"
Part number
Of coil sring compressor
Heres a very similar compressor to the one that we used amzn.to/2E2G3Cm
Hey, where'd you get that coil spring compressor? That one is way different than the one I bought from CJ, yours has nicely contoured hooks with actual hook shape. I feel sullied. I just went and dumped the $42 in the trash and spent another $150 on Mercedes style. I'm cancelling my orders, I'm pissed. You should have THAT compressor for sale but I didn't see that type.
Napa sell that coil spring compressor,,that's were I got mine
You broke the center link pin
What about the suspension is a modern upgrade? Springs and disks aren’t exactly a hard change.
Umm...what about old spring/perch removal...one of the most difficult parts not covered by this video.
That background racket is really aggravating; ruins an otherwise great tutorial.
As much as I like buying from CJPonyParts (and I buy a great number of parts from them), this video is ridiculous! This car's suspension has been apart and is obviously put back together finger-tight!
It practically takes an act of God to get the ball joints out of the spindles after 45 plus years! There is no way that you can simply put a pry bar between the ball joint and the control arm and pop the control arm off the ball joint shaft! This car doesn't even have front Coil Springs in place! By the way, You are better off buying the specific spring compressor for the 64 1/2 to 1970 mustang, than trying to utilize your typical spring compressor. I always have to remove the inner coil spring cover to get enough coils to compress! You also need to be as close to the top of the coil spring tower as you can in order to tighten the bolt that compresses the spring compressor.
This is really a nightmare job, and on a car that you've been driving, you really need to remove the rubber brake lines, which means that you're going to bleed brakes after all this work. This video is shows how some of the parts go back together, but really lacks key disassembly points that will get you in serious trouble if you don't have the proper experience or the right tools! You can get seriously hurt trying to remove your coil springs! Again, the control arm ball joints are NOT this easy to remove from the spindles! The other problem that isn't covered, and it's a BIG problem is that the two front struts are another removal nightmare! You better have the best Impact Hammer that was ever made, otherwise you'll be spending hours trying to get the nut off! I always end up removing the Control arms(if I'm overhauling Everything), and using a crescent wrench and a piece of pipe(my floor jack handle) and unscrewing it from the flat area that is close to the control arm. You still need someone to hold the from 3/4" closed end wrench. Like I said, this video really doesn't give you a true idea of the frustration and work involved in replacing all these parts!! I've bought all these parts and am currently trying to get the ball joints to release from my spindles on a 1970 convertible! I'm stuck! I have tried everything! I'm at the point where I'm thinking of removing the control arms from the shock towers(2 - 3/4" bolts/nuts) and removing the long adjuster bolt from the lower control arm attached to cars lower body mount, and dragging everything out so that I can open it up so I can block up the control arms and hit the boll joint stud with a sledge hammer! like I said, this video isn't what you're really going to be going through!
Dan Marr We've all been there Dan,these guys have unlimited money and supplies, the video is just to give you a idea of how its done,if they filmed a video showing all the frustrations of replacing a front end it would have to be a 100 part video of 30 minute segments each at least!! i recently replaced the whole suspension on my 91 fox body,ill trade you on those springs any day,pure unaltered nightmare.
Not to mention the pitman arm NEVER comes off the gear box that easy!
The real nightmare would be someone who's done this before unbolting the upper control arm without handling the shock and spring first, since it's not even in the car on this video.
What the heck, so what holds the springs in?!
Can't you order brand new spindles from Granada?