How to: Paint a Scale Model with Spray cans Part 2: Color
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- čas přidán 23. 01. 2016
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When I use rattle spray cans, I will place it in a small container of warm water, I find it helps the paint flow on the model. With that technique, i never have to polish the paint and it reduce the orange peel texture that you get with painting
Very cool tip my man…thank you
Me too.... That's a great tip !
The music made me feel like I was in a vanilla sky dream. Nice vid
Jason I feel u dawg even 1 year later. Trippy shit
Thinking of having a go at my first model car, never tried anything like this before and now I'm realising theres a fair bit more stuff I need than just buying the model in a box lol..
Just get a simple starter set to get an idea if you’re thinking so, there’s plenty by revell.
Unless you plan on entering a model show/contest, I wouldn’t worry too much about all these techniques.
I rarely build models myself, so I just “spray and go”.
My few models don’t have that “showroom shine”, but for just my admiration, I’m satisfied with them.
If anything, I personally focus more on the engines and interiors looking fantastic than I do the outside.
Can't believe I made so many simple mistakes in the past. Thanks for this. Now I know where I went wrong
My experience with Tamiya rattlecans is that you must let them dry for at least 72 hours before applying masking tape. I have had a couple of disasters by applying masking tape sooner. The paint underneath develops wrinkles which requires restarting!
Thanks for the tip!
I have had the same problem. I think it’s because the primer isn’t completely cured so the paint takes way longer to cure. In the future I will allow the primer to cure 48 hours before I begin painting with color. Hopefully that solves the problem.
You are trully pasionate, putting so much work to paint one black line. Respect!
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.
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That's the way to go if you want it perfect!
Just found this on youtube. Really brings back memories. Used, then, little bottles of paints or a set. I still have some scale plastic models from childhood. AMT Revell... Still in box, needing to be assembled. Big deal with kids in the 60s
OMG! I remember those! I probably had a few. I started building around 6 or 7 yo. That was about 1970-71. I remember all of the old AMT, Revelle, Monogram, Aurora, MPC, Lindberg, and a couple others. I started out on what I think were MPC Waterline WWII snap together, ships. I wish those were still around. They were simple and still looked good, even without paint. One of my first painted models was an old Frankenstien/Graveyard model. Painted the grass on the grave plain green, and the headstone and foot markers were silver. Don't know what I was thinking....LOL! Aparently I wasn't going for accuracy at such a young age. Nowdays I'm all for being as accurate as possible, when I get into the mood to build something...smh...
Great vid! Currently doing a fujimi R32 and this video helped a lot thanks for the great tips!
You make everything look so easy!
love putting together models and these tips are great. thank you
Great videos really helped me with painting my first body !!
Very informative video. A lot of good masking tips. Thanks.
You've did a fantastic job!
I am building a Hubley Duesenberg the body/chassis/and a lot of parts are made of metal. I have gotten advice from my brother in law who has decades of experience building plastic car kits. I've filed away flashing and excess metal, washed it twice, and primed it with Gray Rustoleum. It's been sanded with 1500 grit wet/dry sandpaper, washed again and wiped off after drying with microfiber cloth. Ed has said that I should let all color coats cure for 2 to 3 weeks. That gives me time to attend to the plastic parts. Like you, I am using Tamiya spray paint.Try a metal kit my friend. It's a heck of a challenge. I'm planning on 1 1/2 years to complete.
Thanks for the tip! I'm going to be stripping and repainting/customising a 1:18 scale E-Type Jaguar fairly soon, and since I've just got into modelling, I wasn't a 100% sure on the best way to go with my project, but thanks to your video, and your channel, I now have an idea of the best way to move forward!
I've just dismantled and sanded and primed body of a jag I brought from a charity shop, it was a bit battered so stripped and primed it ready for a new paint job
You sure do nice work. Remasking for the black line instead of freehand painting was the right way to go. Oh, how I've made this lazy mistake. I sure like that gunmetal color. I'd like to see a whole car painted with it. Thanks for the video!
That sound at 4:13 was so satisfying
Excellent tuto man! very useful
This is so relaxing when you’re stoned af 💨
Great video.
Carmelo Lopez yuppppp
I tried to blow sanding dust off my ipad in first vid. Lol
@@neilpirelli9240 ?
I like to customize my toys, so this helps so much.
This video makes my buzz better thanks bro
Since I'm very experienced with Tamiya spray cans, I couldn't avoid a big smile in my face when you were painting the black stripe and when you think you're pointing the nozzle in the right direction, you realize you've just painted a whole finger; happens to me very often. Happy to see it's not just me :)
lol been there done that!
That's gorgeous
Nice job! I have lots to learn
Artistic Masking!
Frog tape works wonders, they have different grades of tape. Worth a shot to check it out!
I just bought that Tamiya turntable. Nice videos.
Pretty good job. You forgot to state one thing. Shake the can occasionally to keep the paint mixed evenly. It doesn't matter what kind of paint you use, or the temperature, ALWAYS keep your spray paint shaken, to keep it mixed. I've been doing this for over 40 years. Take my word for it. Otherwise, great job! Good recommendations! I also mask off the inside, to keep from overspray. Great job! Thank you! PS-glad to see you using an airbox, and gloves. Hopefully a mask too...always good to pass on good tips. Thanks again!
A second hint on using shaker can paints, if you are using gloss paints, warm the can in hot tap water before using. This helps to thin the paint and adds to the spray pressure. I find I get a much finer coat of paint doing this first. You are only trying to raise the temperature of the paint from room temperature to about 106 degrees F.
Great idea!
I have always lightly ran a new exacto blade along paint edges before unmasking! bit of a habit probably from years ago lifting a set of tape from candy full sized car that I flamed and blended, destroyed around two weeks worth of work, so yeah same here, I don't want to do it twice so better safe than sorry on my part! built a lot of models back in the 60;s as a kid, now retired and getting back into it!
Looks Nice.
For the Americans, try the yellow FrogTape for Delicate Surfaces. It looks and feels just like Tamiya tape.
You might wanna try the purple tape, the glue on it is much less sticky compared to the yellow one. We use this at work for to mask off fresh paint. Keep up the awesome videos I really like them, I just started model building
Thanks for sharing your approach and tips - i feel more confident that spray cans can give a good result, probably far better than brushed which is what I'm used to using.
Bonjour.
En utilisant la technique du tamponnage au pinceau, on a pas de perte de peinture, et le résultat est aussi bon qu'avec une bombe ou un aerographe.
Cordialement.
+ The Scalemodeling chanel
another awesome looking build, your videos have given me the confidence to start doing my own builds. Just a quick one for you, I noticed when you sprayed the black it was a bit "blobby" , do you warm your cans in warm water before use? It's just a small trick from painting lexan bodies for years and helps thin the paint and spray finer.
It was never addressed how you could apply so many initial coats over & over again at one pass & not risk having the paint run. I’ll admit I used auto cans of spray paint & not Tamiya which is known to have a more fine spray, but still trying to be careful of not over spraying. Any response would be helpful.
Low quality tools, high quality product👌 cheers mate!
angus L. I don‘t see a single low quality tool in the video? If you mean the Tamiya sprays, you have obviously not tried them or used them incorrectly.
I've done the same thing like what you did with a two tone colors on my last Tamiya Toyota soarer 3.0 GT Ltd model built. Lol
Getting a huge Deftones vibe from your background music. Wasn't expecting that.
I am also a creator of pre-analyzed miniatures and I try to improve the techniques by seeing other works like yours very good without a doubt.
your spray technique is interesting - short bursts, i've not seen that before.
I'm impressed. Lots of patience with masking. I would however use an airbrush with a fine needle for the black stripe, which would reduce on amount of masking needed
It's just in a best way to prime and paint that base color of the body.
Doing it right with the two tone! Guessing it's the KG1/463 two-tone (Best two tone).
Wish I could have found a non-trashed two tone S13.
Thank You! I just placed an order for one...
For the black mold outlines, I used Tamiya semi gloss black to look more realistic.
Really nice demo on using Tamiya spray cans, you must get through a lot of masking tape!
Tamiya rattle paint levels out pretty well!👍🏻
Jman👀
I was a little surprised at the relatively short bursts of laying down color as opposed to long, even coats. For a while I had the
good fortune of having a pro painter friend do my cars. That option is no longer available to me and I'm starting up my hobby
again by having to go to spray cans, so that's why I've been paying close attention to your videos.
Magnifique
I find that the Tamiya spray is better and actually dries completely compared to their brush paint.
I'll be buying tamiya thanks to this!
Nice build! Will you be doing any race/rally cars?
I was struggling on whether I could paint small details and lines with a spray can, but now it doesn't look so hard.
Is the masking tape you can buy on hardwares good to use for thw curing paint?
Hello love your work I have a quick question how do I remove coats of clear I was trying this new clear but differently not a winner now I have way too much over clear on my car can you help me with out ruining the paint thanks in advance
Do you have any concern for finger prints leaving oil on the paint job and interfering with the paint before the clear coat?
how did you remove the wind shields and what size do you use for taping?
any tips on painting fenders flares that molded on? pretty hesitant to start this kenmeri for that reason lol
1:24 scale u r spraying? I prefer to use this scale as it's easier to work with 👍 cool clip ✌
Hi love the video just wounding the vinyl tape you use what Millimetre is it as i am working on a pontiac trans am at this time
Hello, i have one question! Are the tamiya silver sprays better then the normal spray cans? Becaause the ones for the real cars has so huge flakes that it looks unnatural on modelcars.
they are specialy made for scale models
@@TheScalemodelingChannel so if liht hits the paint, then there arent unnaturally huge flakes that are visible right?
@@gaboaaa23 there should not be, no. though they have different colors with different effects...
@@TheScalemodelingChannel i see! Thanks for the info!
Nice Job. Tell me about the tapes and the paper that you used. Video went so fast,I could not make it out. Why re mask the interior with every newe coat of paint?
You spent way more time masking stuff off than you needed to. Paint the small stripe color, let dry, then cover what you want to keep. Then paint the next accent color, let dry, and mask what you want to keep of that color. Then finally spray the entire car. Pull all the tape off and clear coat it. You'll get a cleaner result with way less work.
Hey mate love your vids mate I was wondering how u would apply the chrome body stripping to a car I would really appreciate your help I got a Volkswagen Beetle 1/35 scale but haven’t built it yet because of this reason thank you mate sorry to bother you with this thank you for sharing your knowledge and talent 👍
Check the BMF how to on my channel ;)
What do you do when you have a model that's already colored and you want to keep the same shade? Tamiya makes a version of that Silvia in pearl-green, but I don't think that Tamiya makes that shade in a spray. As long as the body doesn't have any moulding marks, can you get away with just clearcoat?
Are you use? Primer surface?
Have you tried blue tape instead of yellow? The glue isnt so harsh on the paint when you peel it.
What clear coat can I use so if I make a booboo while spraying stripes or like a blackout hood where it connects to body color etc., that I can polish out the blemish.
I wanna repaint the front and back bumpers of the 1:18 Chevy caprice white, is this how I go at it?
I will have to try purple power. The alcohol didnt even touch the paint
Just found (and subscribed) your channel. I'm having problems with my nascar diecast that the paint gets orange peels and imperfections. Suggestions or a link on best way to wet sand to get the imperfections out?
I have a couple videos on that. Check out my how to playlist
what primer can do you use?
Is that tape you used for the corners the 3mm wide tape? Planning on getting some and was wondering what size you were using in the video, looks perfect.
Captain Kam i honestly can't remember. I have all the sizes available and pick wichever one works best in that moment
Hey Tom. Great tutorials. I was just wondering what u would recommend for stripping paint if I wanted to start over? Thanks!
Isopropyl alcohol works most of the time
Purple power degreaser works perfectly you can get a jug at your local Walmart
awesome video, whats the name of that string mass tape you used and where do you get it....thanks
The yellow tape is from KIP. The white tape is tamiya vinyl tape
Do you wet sand before or after the clear
If you're painting with Acrylics, and you want to do a 2 tone paint job, should you clear coat before painting the second color? I'm worried about the tape pulling off the paint when I remove it. Thanks for your time.
If you would pull the paint of without the clear. You would pull if off with the clear aswell. It has to do with the adhesion of the underlaying layers.
Do you clean your spray nozzle?
Where do you purchase your models? Ive only been able to get some models from amazon because in hawaii there isnt really a hobby store here for model cars lol
Davyn Thornburg have a look in ebay. They have loads more!
Also : If you have a airbrush use it , spray cans splatter paint too much that build up those paint lumps you have to sand out !
Wouldn't it be much easier to use Tamiya panel liner for the thin lines?
Can you use regular spray paint?
I like the idea of tins for spraying, would it be ok to use car spray paints and lacquer, as long as they're acrylic?
It would, but metallic colors will be a bit rough and out of scale.
Ah! I hadn't thought about that. The flakes and pearlescence would be too big. Thanks for the tip. Might consider it for priming and flat colours then. Keep up the good work, these are some of the best videos I've seen (and I've watched a lot!)
Some great tips! Thanks for the video👍
For the coats of paint i do non light coats all day
Awesome! Same Q as Antonia Gaspar. Where did you get the turntable stand and how did you come up with the paint booth?
Tamiya paint stand
Thank you
Where did you get that body support? I've been using a bent clothes hanger..
It is a Tamiya spray stand
Can be found in any good modelling shop/outlet.
Is there a video on fixing up paint build up? I applied paint on the wheels but went too thick. :(
ALWAYS be light with your paint. You can always add an extra layer, but removing it is a whole lot harder...and make sure you keep your spray paint, and bottle paint also, mixed. Stop spraying, give it a few shakes, and then continue. It will assure an even color. And keep it at room temperature. Paint that has gotten cold, especially if left outside in cold weather, can go 'bad'. It can bubble, or at worst, look like it has 'veins' in it. Plus, it get's slightly tacky, and is harder to remove. I live in Alabama. We have humid weather, sometimes cold winter, and it is terrible on spray paint, especially model paint. I don't have a dedicated spray area, so most of the time, I have to build models in the warmer months, and choose a day when the humidity isn't too high. If you are painting plated wheels, make sure that you un-plate them first. Just do that by first soaking them in ammonia for about 24 hours. Best I remember. That should remove any chrome plating. They should be chrome free, but still have a gloss. Apply a light coat of primer, then your final color. Your first color coat should be a light mist. Not heavy. Your second coat should take care of fully covering. Remember, always be sparing with your coverage. You have to think scale. The thinner the coat the better. Full color, but light coverage. It takes a little practice. The results are great! That should fix your wheel painting problem! Happy modelling!
Lightly sand with 400 grit then 300 grit try to put a piece of sandpaper on a qtip.cotton suab to get in hard to reach areas
What's the song that's playing around the 5:30 to 7:30 mark?
Hey! Where do you buy the stand that your painting on?
O J liks are in the description
Did you make your stand for painting models, Or did you buy it? Where if you bought it? Your videos are awesome!
Its a tamiya spray stand
What kind of sound track is that? Sounds more relaxing while working on my models.
Its all from the youtube audio library
5:56 what song is this?
Hi, thx for the video. Could you please tell me what is the difference between tamiya gray and light gray surface primer.
the color
HI The Scalemodeller :) I'm recently after spraying my Skyline R33 however I have a little problem. After painting i noticed that some places on the body I have some strange little spots. I doesn't look like dust. It is more like air bubbles. It makes terrible look on the body. Are you able to advise me what to do with it? Should I sand it down and then paint the body again, or just proceed with clear and then polishing with 2500 grit sand paper should do the job? Is there any other way to contact you than youtube?
Your sparying to thick to quickly. you can sand it down repaint.
Considering the short drying times between coats, I assume you're using lacquer rather than enamel?
I am not sure if this is laquer paint. I is all Tamiya paint form a spray can. i just followed the instructions on the can.
When you apply decals do you apply them directly on the paint then clear coat or clear coat and put the decals on the clear coat
You can do both. If you want to avoid silvering, then apply them on top of clearcoat. And clear over them
Hi sorry for my english
I don't understand much English, primary and compulsory?
I would like to try to paint my model with a tamiya spray can, it will be a first and I am afraid that the paint will leak.... thank you
I'm thinking of getting into model building, again, and think spray cans are the way I want to go instead of investing in an airbrush, just incase I lose interest, don't want to spend too much if that's going to happen lol. Are smaller spray cans available than the ones you're using? Like travel size?
The ones used are the smaller ones
As the main color or prime coat paint, how many 1/24 model kit I can use for a single spray can? Thank you a lot.
2 maybe 3
Hello. Where to find this holder for model when you paint? And what is it? Thank you very much
Tamiya spray stand
I bought a metalic Silver spray can paint from a store. When I tried it on a spare bumper it came out nice and smoth. But whrn I lainted the body of the car it came out very matte. Is this because of overspray? It also peels of very easly.. I kinda messesd up...How is thia fixable? Will it be shiny again if I put some clear coat on it?
+Andrei F paint is mostly matt if not clear coated.
Did you sand the body and apply primer first?