Tutorial how to achieved Mirror Finish Paint job. 1/24 scale model car
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- čas přidán 20. 04. 2020
- Song by : TheFatRat - Rise Up (SilentCrafter Remix)
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Clear Coat used : Mr.Hobby Super Clear GLOSS
Drying time before Polish : 3 to 5 days at least. Longer is Better! to let the clear coat fully dry and sink.
If you have any Questions just leave a comment down below!
Hope this video is Helpful, and if you like this video Please give me a thumbs up, and PLEASE PLEASE SUBSCRIBE! For more contents, builds and Tips.
This will help me a lot! Thanks for Watching! - Auta a dopravní prostředky
How to have a finish like a real car: polish it like a real car
Hahaha yuppp😂
Actually, yes that is how it is done
Pretty much exact same process for wet sanding and polishing a car. Maybe even do a ceramic coat on your model at the end! :)
Amazing tutorial and very informative. Been looking for something so detailed for some time and this completely fits the bill. All questions are now answered!!!
thank you so much for the feedback! Glad you like it! any questions can just let me know =)
You're the first one I've seen that does it right. I'm a perfectionist especially when it comes to detailing the paint. You did a very nice job. I just finished a pro street 64 Mustang (factory color) now I'm doing a 70 mach 1. It's a sort of time attack car. Only colors I have is white. Red . and orange. I'm thinking of going with orange
So glad to hear that man!😁😁 im a automotive painter and detailer too😂 thats why you often see me used automotive products😂
@@JHHobby I like meguiars products better than mothers because meguiars is geared towards the professional. I've always had nothing but good luck with it
Such a good video! Excellent content and even better production. Well thought out. I’ve been researching for my first car build, and let me tell you, there is some less than stellar content out there. 😀
I'm a novice modeler. And want to do box stock at model show's. Wich you probably know comes down to the paint being perfect to place. So this was extremely helpful. That heavy compound is expensive. But on models probably lasts a long time I'd imagine. Thank you so much for the very informative video!!!
Yes the compound will last u at least 20 to 30 models😂
Thank you for a clear, concise and easy to follow video. Polishing shouldn't be black magic and you make it seem
almost simple if we FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS.
Huge difference. Looks great.
That finish is immaculate!
Wow thank you master! 😍 i always admire your builds too sir!💙
Beautiful work and you're a great teacher. Thanks. 🤗
Glad to hear that!😄😄 thanks alot🤗
Wow looks absolutely amazing,
YOU are a genius!!!!
Nice work! Gives me confidence to paint my models and have a shine that grabs the eye.
Glad i can help!😄
Fantastic if only most modellers knew this. It would take their finished product from toy looking to real vehicle.
Great tutorial. Just what I've been looking for. Thanks a million.
Glad to hear that! 😍😍
Thank you for this tutorial. I truly look up to you and how you make such amazing cars. I will be attempting my 4th and most detailed model car soon! Have a good day😄
Thank you so much! Im so glad i can help through my videos🙏🙏🙌
Good luck
Woooow!!! Amazing!!! Thank you so much for the tutorial!!!
I’m working on a revell 1/144 a380 and I’m trying to make it look really good. This tutorial really helped
Glad to hear that😁😁
That’s a great polishing work,congratulations,look’s great
Thank you very much!
simply the best tutorial i have ever seen, thanks for the info :)
Glad to hear that! Thanks!🤗😊
Amazing technique,looks awesome
Thank you! Cheers!
❤❤❤ that's amazing, thanks for the video ✌️😎
Very nice and thorough tutorial. I learned some things I didn't know before
Glad to hear that!
Excellent tutorial. This will help me polish my keycaps 😎
Now if I did this I'd be wearing the paint off at the edges!! Nice work!!
Haha thanks!
awesome, thank you mate and thank you for sharing on the FB How To's page so we could find video!
thank you so much for your feedback! glad i can help =)
Thank you very much. I will try your technique.
Small additions:
If you can, use sanding blocks with sandpapers
Instead of wool polishing pad (in high cutting phase) use sponge polishing pad. Sponge has much more cutting rather than wool.
Man this channel is already mind blowing helpful
Happy to hear that!
Great tutorial. Thanks!
thank you sir! =)
Terbaik ni. Thanks for sharing this! Going to start my first build next week.
Welcome bro! 😁😁 happy building!🙌
That is very helpful, I can use the same technique on my diecast cars paint. The finished product looks awesome my friend.
yes you can indeed! i use this technique on my 1/18 diecast too
Amazing work, theylook so realistic! 👌😁
Looks great! With my painting skills, I need this! It certainly beats using sanding pads from 3,600 to 12,000. Thanks! I am a new subscriber.
Must try this as just got into this hobby and built 2 cars and hate the paint job pmsl
Great job done, good tutorial .
thanks!
ive actually wondered about how to make my paint on model cars mimic the real type reflection that 1/1 cars have. thank you this helps me a lot!!
Glad to hear that! These technique is used to real cars too😁
@@JHHobby how do you get those nice metal flake looks on the car?
@@JHHobby is it with airbrush or just with polish? I use spray paints.
@@dannypino3130 I would think the paint itself has that pearl mix in there. He must have mixed his own paint finish.
@@estebanflores8049 what is the difference between pearl and metallic paint?
WoW, well done ! I have to do again and again to have the same result. Thanks for the vidéo 💛👍👏
thanks! glad you like it! hopefully this is helpful = )
Yes, I recorded this video
Awesome dude.
Very nice work!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Very usefull..nice video too
thank you so much!
Great Job, wow is amazing with a little patience what you can accomplish. to bad i have none. I see i will have to go out and buy me some patience . Congrats looks awesome
Haha you can do it too! And thanks for the kind words🙌
Wow! Your tutorials are amazing, very detailed and well explained in a simple way, keep them coming, I am learning a lot everytime I watch 👍👌 many thanks !!! One question, how do you do it when you build a racecar with a lot of decals, I am concerned to damage the decals by sanding as the clear coat is very thin.... only one chance to get it right or wrong 😉 any advise highly appreciated, thanks !
thank you so much! glad it is useful! i will recommend apply more layers of clear, this way you will have a thicker clearcoat to work with, but of course you still have to be careful, dont wetsand too much first to be safe haha
Very helpful. This with using a minigrinder i never been thinking of. Have to try it. Most times i use this nail polish kits woman buys , with rather good result.. But maybe not this good
Great job on the paint how to my freind excellent il have to get some that compound 👍
Thanks!😁😁 yess that meguairs compound is one of the best and easiet to work on haha
Thanks so much for this!
Wonderful video.
thank you sir! =D
Funny your pic for this video shows before and after. But too me the before looks awesome enough :)) crazy that it gets even better through some wet sanding. Am always scared I will take off the paint. Good vid.
Hahaha true😂 only making it even better 😁
I Use Sanding Blocks & only Use 600-800 Wet/Dry I Pre-mask Chrome to Avoid Filling with Paint 56 Crown Victoria or 63 Impala use Dish Soap in
Water to slightly Wetsand
Great video thanks!
thanks! =D
Wow... Hello fellow msian!!!! Great work
Haha hello bro 😂
Excellent tutorial!!! Truthfully the amount of orange peel can be reduced greatly by using a high quality 2 part automotive clear coat and hardener, and also temperature/humidity play a big factor. I use only automotive clear coat and hardener used on real world automobiles and after spraying the clear it comes out nearly flawless every single time. I can wet sand with 6000 grit and 12000 grit, rotary polish using Meguiars ultimate polish, top with pure carnauba, and my finish is then flawless.
thanks for the info =) i yet to try with automotive clear haha..for paint colour i always use automotive paint..but dont know why i feel its so much easier to use spray cans haha
Nice work!!
Thanks man!🙇
Very nice
boutta do my first car and your videos help a ton! Paint looks great. Hope I can do mine good 😂😆
You can do it!
Another great tutorial from you sir. Well explained and I can notice some points which I can adapt to my procedure to make it even better. I currently use Autoglym but have seen many people use Meguiars, need to try their products once mine reach the end. Once again, thank you and well done!
Thank you so much again! i think i learn this from you if i'm not mistaken..long long ago haha.. yea i find that any products work fine as long as it has the right cutting and polish properties needed.
@@JHHobby Yeah I did make a tutorial online several years ago.. glad you found it interesting! Perfectly agree that all products have their benefits if you use them correctly. Once again, thank you for the share!
Haha glad that u made the tutorial years ago..it really helped us alot! 😁😁
Very nice. Result is beautiful.
I was wondering what color/manufacturer paint and clear coat you used. I usually decant my paints and clear. Letting them breath and let the propellant gas out before I use them in my airbrush.
Thanks so much.
Awesome!
First I just wanna say I'm really amazed of your work, And thiese methods do work but when wet sanded it to 2000-3000 I get a little minor scratches but meh, hahaha! And I have watched your every videos on how-to's and I almost achieved most of my 1/24 scales. One last thing can you build an Fujimi RX-7 Spirit R Type A and lowering it, Thanks keep up the great work!
The first model I painted with airbrush was the Ferrari F40. Because of the disappointing looks of the painting I quitted building modern cars sets, and focused on planes and tanks where shiny finishings is not a must. With your video, I'm ready again to give modern cars models a second try. Thanks!
Really awesome for using mini grinder! Wonder if I could modified the lake country pad to use with the grinder. (I prefer using menzerna for polishing my car and I think it could be great for the model too.) thanks for the great video.
haha thanks! it's a life saver using a machine to polish, so much quicker and not tiring haha. yea you definetely can use any type of polish products..as long as it works for you =D
good job~~
This is great, thank you for making this. What model grinder is that? I've been looking a bit online and cant find something that looks the same size. I'm also having a hard time finding a wool attachment thing
Good job blue is a bugger to get right too
Thanks mate!😁😁
Fantastic tutorial and presentation, really shows the before and after. Thanks for sharing! One question what was the paint used for the bodies?
Thanks man! Glad to hear that😄 for the paint mostly i use acrylic base type
Thank you for the helpful video. Do I need to sand the base coat before putting on the gloss clear coat? Thank you
This came out beautifully. Can I ask a question? So im trying to paint my hard body but everytime i use the tamiya masking tape to make the lines so I can paint the other side a different color when I take the tape off it leaves a streak of residue that makes me have to start all over and sand it and paint again but all I will be doing is going is circles. My question is if I leave the residue will this clear coat cover it and make is vanish? Or do you have a suggestion to get rid of the residue? Before you suggest some products I did some researching and I tried Wd40, Water, Goo Gone and using more tape to stick it and bring it up but none of these work. Thanks for any help!
Wow! You simply cannot argue with those results. Thanks for the tutorial. I was just about to go buy a pile of Tamiya compounds but after watching this I will just use my automotive products. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
awesome tutorial, especially for a beginner like me! One question... the paint on my recent model has some small specs of dust in it (not too bad, but slightly noticeable) and I'm wondering should I be polishing or sanding the paint before adding the decals & clear coat? Or should I just add the decals & then clear coat & leave the polishing until then?
I'm using Tamiya TS paint from the can & will clear coat in TS-13
Thank you so much for the feedback! glad you find it useful =D normally its better to apply the decal before clear coat, this way you will have a protection over the decals. If you already apply the clear coat, it's ok to apply the decal later after you finish polishing =) hope this help
Thanks
Greta vid - Can I ask a couple of questions please .
How many clear coats did you do before hand ?
What type of paint did you use - acrylic ?
If I’m putting decals on is it best to do it after the final wax coat ? Or will this cause problems with decals ?
Thanks and once again great vid ❤
Love watching your videos, great job, once again! Doing my first car right now. Started with wet sandig and I am wondering why the colour comes off at some parts of the body. Do you have any idea? Same prbblem when using the tamiya glue. I painted the car with an air brush system and I'm using Tamiya Acrylic paint. I'm thankful for any hint. Greets from Germany...
Thanks man! I think you burn through the clear coat whn wet sanding😅
Thanks for the awesome video! I just started collecting 1:18 scale cars and im too terrified to take them apart. Can we do this without taking the car apart? Where did you get that mini grinder or can I use an electric toothbrush? I want my cars to look like this. Ive been mainly collecting autoart, some solido, GT spirit, topspeed. Do they all pretty much have the same paint? I just want to make sure im not going to ruin the car.
Great tutorial. Can you tell me, was that a clear coat that you painted over the paint? Or was that just simply a high glass paint. Thanks for your time.
Wahhh malaysiaaaa siap harga RM hahahha
A very informative video and I like the finish that you obtained, it looks great. The question that I have is it a 2K Clear that you are sanding? If I try to use 2000 or 3000 grit sand parer on a 2K clear then you will get scratches that the polishing compounds won't be able to remove.
Hi thanks for the feedback.. i use Mr.hobby clear not 2k. But i work in automotive paint shop too, with 2k clear and wetsand with grit 2000 is possible to remove by compound. Need a strong cut compound to removes the sandpaper marks. I can say its not easy for model cars because normally we use hand to polish🤣
@JH Hobby I know a lot of ppl out there take time to show and explain how to videos, but I wanted to take the time to comment that you did an excellent job in the presentation and pointing out the pitfalls of what not to do , etc, very much appreciated very informative video.
I have a question, if you have older plastic models( slot cars, bodies have marks, scratches from racing them) and wanted to polish, wax them to get it " close" to the original paint job, what product would you use first to " fill in or cover up the scratches before you get to the steps that you demonstrated in the video ?
Hey! Thanks for the feedback!😁😁 it depends on the scrathes actually, if the scratch is not too deep then it can be polish away😁 just simply give it a try and see how it goes😁
Currently been doing some research as I've been working on a protocol droid. I'm not happy with my paint as the gloss coat eliminated all the shine the paint had. I'm actually kind of wondering if this will actually help it get more of that mirrored silver look now.
Only one word-MAGIC!!!
hahaha!
Awesome video.
Question... I used 2K clear, how long can I wait to polish? 1-day, 1-week, 2-weeks?
I tried once after 3-days and the clear just gummed up when I sanded it.
Average ambient condition: 70 F and 50% rH
Hello brother. First of all, nice video! I have a question. How long is the waiting time after the gloss coat. Cuz my paint burnt through on some raised edges even though i only lightly touch them. Working on some hotwheels project. They're so hard to polish as they are very tiny lol.
hey mat great vid!. Quick question. In my last build i tried mr clear uv cut lacquer one, let it dry for over a week, and when i did my first wet sand with 2k grit sponge it left scratched i couldnt get out. i reapplied clear coat again, lett it dry over a week and tried 4k grit sponge from godhand and same thing happened? do you know why this could be happening? it's getting frustrating now. thanks in advance and great videos!
Hi! Great tutorial video! I need some help though. For some dumb reason i decided to skip the wet sanding to smooth out the orange peel and went right to the compound, polish, then wax. Its shiny for sure but still has heavy orange peel in certain areas. Question is, can i go back and wet sand it even though ive polished and waxed? Thanks!
hi, yes you still can wetsand and polish again =)
Now add a coat of ceramic clear gloss and buff that! It will look 10 times better.
Nice videos and tutorials. We should grab a drink to chat up if you ever come Singapore. 😀
Sure thing😉😉 and thanks!
Thanks for this! Can’t wait to give it a try. What clear was used on your example? I’m using a water based acrylic (Alclad Aqua Gloss) and I’m concerned it won’t take the abuse. Cheers.
Thanks man, i think it should be fine😁 i use Mr.hobby super clear.
Really amazing job, thanks so much, I want to ask you how many coats of clear do you apply usually ?
Mine looks dull. I am hoping that it is just because i didn't use a coarser compound first (went from 7000 wet sand to Tamiya fine polish). Will get some compound with cutting quality tomorrow and hopefully that brings up the gloss again.
I can tell that English isn't your native language. I'm guessing that you're from Japan. I too have the mirror glaze polish. I use this only for hand polishing as it's highly refined and redundant with the polishing wheel that I normally use for much larger items. Using any type of rotary tool can burn right through your paint. I use 600 grit wet-or-dry sandpaper for everything and I can get a high gloss with that and the Meguiar's Mirror or number 9 Swirl Remover, or number 7 Show car Glaze. These are my go to polishes for hand rubbing. And use a TERRY CLOTH towel and not a microfiber cloth as it is too soft to rub the polish into the finish. Otherwise this is absolutely GORGEOUS and the type of finish that everyone loves!! Much better than using floor polish that all the numb nuts of the modeling forums use in a lame and poor attempt to get the same finish which it does not! Thank you for sharing this with us to enjoy.
I have 2 car bodies that are molded in color. I'm happy with them, so I don't want to paint over them. If I apply a clearcoat first, could I sand away a molding seam without damaging the color? I'm coming back and I'm re-learning. Thank you!
excellent! what kind of blue paint did you use? does it have some kind of flock in it?
Does the wet sanding and Tamiya Polishing Compound removes the metallic flakes when clear coating?
Wow!
If i wanted to use this method on a gunpla kit, how would you recommend getting into the panel lines and recesses to ensure those areas also habe that smooth finish?
Thank you for this video! What type of paint did you use? Also, did it have a clear coat on top of it prior to sanding? Thanks!
Thanks! Yes this only worked for clear coat😁 i use Mr.hobby clear on this project
Thanks
That’s a perfect looking paint job. Did you have to wet sand the color coat before spraying the clear? I guess your orange peel is on the clear ? What kind of color paint did you use? Thanks
hey, thanks! nop i did not wetsand the paint..normally colour paint im using airbrush so its not rough
Looks amazing! When in the process of painting the body do you add the decals? Do you put them before the clearcoat?
I always clear coat over the decals. Just be careful as some decals will react with the clear. I give it a couple very light coats and let them tack up well before a couple heavier wet coats.
Mostly i will spray over the decal😁 unless i forgot hahaha
Thanks for this, every time I paint a model car the paint looks like orange peel, I will try this out and see if it helps, currently modifying a 1:18 scale Ferrari 550 maranello
Glad to hear that! Hopefully you can pull this off with your project😁
thanks, great tutorial. What clear coat product do you use?
Thanks! I use mr.hobby super clear
Please clarify this for me: if the orange peel is on the paint, how can buffing and polishing the clear coat will correct the issue? Shouldn't I need to level out the paint with sanding instead?
Nice! It's exactly what I do! Right down to the Dremel wheel! (I made a video recently with my method and materials.) The only point where I diverge from your method is...(I spray Testors Enamel Clear, which is really soft even after it cured a year!) So I found that the Meguiars polish and even the wax was too abrasive leaving visible swirls and haze on my black finish. What I found much more successful for the softer finish was Tamiya Finishing Polish and for wax I used Meguiars Spray Wax which, being a liquid spray had no abrasives.
Again...beautiful job and great tutorial! I'm just mentioning materials that work better if you find your clearcoat is too soft.
Thanks! Yeah true man..thats why we have to try with different types of polish, pads, and technique to really get it right😁
Have you ever tried using meguiars swirl remover? It's a very fine polish
@@ihateliberals518 No, have not used it. But thanks for the tip! For some reason some of my paint jobs scratch easier than others. Sometimes Meguiars ScratchX is too abrasive, and then I instead use Tamiya Finishing Polish, which is super fine. Even the Tamiya Fine Polish is too abrasive and have to use the Finishing Polish. There is a big difference between the two.
@@hobbycow5346 you should try using what I do. Believe it or not. It's rustoleum that I get from Wal-Mart. I put the color on. Then I use rustoleum crystal clear. That clear is so good. Once you wet sand and buff it. It looks almost like candy!! (Meaning like candy apple red paint) it's by far the best clear I've ever used
@@ihateliberals518 Thanks for the tip! Will keep that in mind. Especially since Testors no longer makes enamel spray paint. I have 2 cans of enamel clear left and that's it for good.
would I still be able to get a shine from the kit if I don't use a gloss coat?
Excellent results with 1K clear! Can even say its better than 2K.
I'll like to share to all that if you're using machine polish. Becareful of edges of the model kit and polish towards or parallel to it. Had the buffing wheel caught on to the edges and flank it across the room one too many times.
thanks~ yea until now i havent try 2k clear on model car yet haha..need to try it one day, is it better using 2k?
yes! using the machine polish have to be really careful but it speed up the process a lot haha
@@JHHobby I like using 2K Clear from Gravity Colors, lays very smooth and doesn't give the "dipped in syrup" look. Little to no sanding or polishing required afterwards. Downside is it's v toxic to spray.
Major Downside for me is I live in SG. V costly to ship in.
@@WingsOfGaming ahh i see! thanks for your opinions =D not sure i can get that paint or not =( no wonder some builders can spray the clear coat soo smooth without polishing, now i know the reasons haha
@@JHHobby Gravity Colours I highly recommend the EU site. Zero Paints are an alternative too.
@@WingsOfGaming alright cool! =D