There’s this stuff called “Parafilm-M” that works a charm for what you’re doing. It’s meant to be stretched. After you stretch it, it makes it a very thin material, much thinner than any masking tape. It clings very tightly around compound curves and fine crevices. I’ve been using it for years for masking canopies on aircraft models. Give it a go. I think you’ll agree it works much better and easier than masking tape. Happy modeling!
I've been using liquid mask for a while now. Same kind of concept. Paint it on and It will peel like a plastic film, cuts easier than masking tape, and no bleeding underneath like tape always seems to do.
This is a great idea for the trim if you're building a Show model.. And your definitely looks great. But I don't have a ton of tape or a Air Brush.. So I just use a Black Sharpie and it comes out pretty good.
Great video! Something I would like to add is for people that sometimes have bleed through with masking where it will actually go under the masking tape! If you use some sort of clearcoat first like a nice thin tamiya flat clear, it seals the tape pretty good and prevents bleed through! Great for doing two tone colours as well!
I noticed behind the drivers window the paint blew under the tape. I used the blur painters tape from home depot and it won't lift with the force of the airbrush
A lot of effort but worth it in the long run. I tried free handing my last model car's trim and I'll never do that again, haha. I don't have a steady enough hand for that, it came out way too messy. Sharpies or chrome markers are probably a better option for people like me, if we don't feel like masking and spraying it.
@@ScaleModellingVideos I've since seen/found Molotow chrome markers (1mm, 2mm, 4mm) are really they way to go in some cases. A lot less labor than foiling.
Behind the side windows there is this "black stain", both driver and passenger's sides. At first I thought you had a leak in your mask, but it is there before you start masking. Is this a problem in the plastic? Or just a mistake you plan on fixing later?
That could be from any number of things. Main cause is there is a thin layer of plastic molding release agent on all plastic models that needs to be removed. Ever notice how shiny the plastic parts are when you first open the box, thats the mold release agent on the parts. Simply soak all parts in a bath of water with Dawn dish detergent. Another reason for paint peeling is acrylic based paints. Acrylic paint is notorious for peeling from tape. Try using a primer before your basecoat color as well. Make sure your using a low tack tape or frisket film. Regular tape is to strong and will peel the paint right off. Hope this helped, good luck.
I have to be honest here - with almost sixty years of model building under my belt, that masking tape is some of the crappiest tape I've ever used. Use tape from the automotive paint jobber shop, if you want quality tape.
There’s this stuff called “Parafilm-M” that works a charm for what you’re doing. It’s meant to be stretched. After you stretch it, it makes it a very thin material, much thinner than any masking tape. It clings very tightly around compound curves and fine crevices. I’ve been using it for years for masking canopies on aircraft models. Give it a go. I think you’ll agree it works much better and easier than masking tape. Happy modeling!
I've been using liquid mask for a while now. Same kind of concept. Paint it on and It will peel like a plastic film, cuts easier than masking tape, and no bleeding underneath like tape always seems to do.
This is a great idea for the trim if you're building a Show model.. And your definitely looks great. But I don't have a ton of tape or a Air Brush.. So I just use a Black Sharpie and it comes out pretty good.
Thanks for sharing! I just taped mine up the hard way and found this channel! Really good tips, I've been doing things wrong since I was a kid!
No worries mate, glad I could help
Great video. Thanks for sharing your tips.
Very clever ! I was doing the hard way . Thanks for the video!
Great video! Something I would like to add is for people that sometimes have bleed through with masking where it will actually go under the masking tape! If you use some sort of clearcoat first like a nice thin tamiya flat clear, it seals the tape pretty good and prevents bleed through! Great for doing two tone colours as well!
Thanks for the advice. Appreciate it mate
Nice video. Excellent tutorial on painting the trim. Merry Christmas to you and yours. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you! Hope you had a great Holidays too
Nice tutorial. Thanks for sharing.
No worries mate.
You could use clingfilm to wrap the bonnet and save your expensive masking tap. Nice video 👍🏻
Thanks for the feedback. That sound s like a good idea I might try it in future.
Thanks for sharing. Great tutorial
Thankyou.
Thank you for Czech subtitles 👍👍good work
No worries mate. A lot of my videos have subtitles.
Great video, well deserved subscription
Thanks mate appreciate the sub.
I sometimes use Sharpies, sometimes chrome pens.
Very good tutorial brother!
Thanks as always mate
Just found you - subd! great channel and content. Thank you for sharing.
Thanks for the tip really appreciate it! You have a new sub.
Thanks for the feedback and sub.
I use Sharpies. Fine and extra fine, no need to mask if you're steady enough and you can clear over it if wanted
Nice tutorial. I just didn't get something : you removed the tape once the paint was dry or before it was dry?
I started with bare metal foil, but have since gone to sharpies and Molotow chrome pen. I've also used craft paint pens from Michaels.
Wow scalpel is amazing where did you get that from? Please
Nice job what red paint did you use cheers Graham
Another trick is using a flexible tape along the trim underneath the masking tape to have aligned guidance for the blade. And please always cut ones.
Thanks for the feedback. Appreciate it.
Cool 👍🏿
Hey their! Great video it was very helpful. Can i do this with paint brush aswell? I don’t own an airbrush yet as I just got into the hobby, thanks.
Yes you can! It will require a steady hand.
I noticed behind the drivers window the paint blew under the tape. I used the blur painters tape from home depot and it won't lift with the force of the airbrush
Yeah that's a mistake I made that a few people have noticed. Thanks for the feedback too
I free hand my window rubbers with mr hobby 012
All that masking seems like a lot of effort
A lot of effort but worth it in the long run. I tried free handing my last model car's trim and I'll never do that again, haha. I don't have a steady enough hand for that, it came out way too messy. Sharpies or chrome markers are probably a better option for people like me, if we don't feel like masking and spraying it.
I’ve also seen a silver chisel-point Sharpie marker used to color window trims.
Thanks for the tip. Appreciate it.
🏍️ We would never have thought of that. 🤔
@@ScaleModellingVideos I've since seen/found Molotow chrome markers (1mm, 2mm, 4mm) are really they way to go in some cases. A lot less labor than foiling.
@@davenelson8187 thanks for letting me know. I might look into those.
@@davenelson8187 I use the 0.7mm size. Seems to work best for me.
What if you don’t gloss coat it will it come off? A lot of factory trim is flat black so if you coat it it will be glossy
If it is Acrylic paint and you don't gloss it it will come off. Enamel sometimes does not come off.
thank you your video , and I will make skyline gtr32 just like this:)
No worries.
Behind the side windows there is this "black stain", both driver and passenger's sides. At first I thought you had a leak in your mask, but it is there before you start masking. Is this a problem in the plastic? Or just a mistake you plan on fixing later?
🏍️ Good eye. Now I'm curious.🤔
I think it was a mistake. This video was a while ago now. I think I went back in and fixed it
Where did you get the knife from? Can you send me the link?
I don't have a link, it is called fiskars fingertip craft knife also called finger loop knife
Why not use a black felt tip pen?
I might try that in future. Thanks for the advice.
Using a new sharp blade would help alot
Thanks for the comments and feedback. Appreciate it.
@@ScaleModellingVideosI used the scalpel and blades - medical grade sharpness
My base paint always peels off after i unmask the tape. Can you show me how to resolve that problem! Thanks a lot.
That could be from any number of things. Main cause is there is a thin layer of plastic molding release agent on all plastic models that needs to be removed. Ever notice how shiny the plastic parts are when you first open the box, thats the mold release agent on the parts. Simply soak all parts in a bath of water with Dawn dish detergent. Another reason for paint peeling is acrylic based paints. Acrylic paint is notorious for peeling from tape. Try using a primer before your basecoat color as well. Make sure your using a low tack tape or frisket film. Regular tape is to strong and will peel the paint right off. Hope this helped, good luck.
@@BlueGillage oh I see. Thanks a lot for your advise. I try it next time!
This is the problem I’m having too! Hadn’t heard of moulding release agent until now. Thank you for your comment
🏍️ Think I'd look for a sheet of black BMF.
That's a great option too
I have to be honest here - with almost sixty years of model building under my belt, that masking tape is some of the crappiest tape I've ever used. Use tape from the automotive paint jobber shop, if you want quality tape.
Window trim = Window Fret in Car Design terminology........
Omg takes so long and you end up using a lot of tape and new blades and also scratches the plastic.
Coming here after ruining a Skyline :-( I had it taped up and the paint bled under!?
Hmm well I hope it turned out better after the video
What did you use to paint with? Airbrushes can solve this, as they spray much lighter and thinner so the paint won't pool up at the edges of the tape.
10:41 This is not 5 millimeters.