Fitting out a 60 x 12 widebeam barge, The MV Maria B.
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- čas přidán 24. 11. 2018
- This time lapse video covers the bulk of the fitout from delivy to launch. 144 hours of build time shrunk to ten minutes.
This is our business. Suffolk Craftsmen build beautiful interiors every day.
The hull was built by Collingwoods in Liverpool, commissioned by LM Marine and delivered to our yard in April 2018. The fitout was completed in six weeks then launched in September before moving to its permanent home in Neptune Marine, Ipswich.
For more information on this build, to order one for yourself or any other questions contact us;
Built by Suffolk Craftsmen
www.suffolkcraftsmen.co.uk
stephen@suffolkcraftsmen.co.uk
07522395666 - Krátké a kreslené filmy
Fine work. Those craftsmen know their thing. Thanks for sharing.
Capt.Eissa Eissa thank you 😊
Thanks. I am in shipbuilding industry myself so I do understand and appreciate your good work. All the best mate👍
The difference in room between wide and narrow just became more visual as I have watch both styles being fitted out . Great job on video . Thanks and cheers from Oz .
Glad you liked it!
Fantastic video … a lot of hard work and high skill, well done.
This is beautiful, beautiful 🎖🎖🎖🏆
Cheers! There is also a walkthrough video on my Chanel if you are interested.
I didn't realise widebeams were that big.
Now I'm wondering whether to stick with my plan to go for a Dutch Barge, since I'm guessing I can travel more of the canal in a widebeam.
At the same time, I think I'd prefer a steering wheel and the ability to sail from inside a wheel house.
Plenty of room in a wide beam and probably more useable as it just one open space. You can have a wheel house on a wide beam! Wheel steering is no problem. However, there are a lot of wide beams on the canal network now and moorings are becoming scarce. Think about building a boat at 3m beam (10ft) and just under 60 ft… say 57 and you will have lower price moorings and access to more of the network! Need help with the build? Give me a shout.
Can't believe he covered most of the windows!!! 😮
There is a story behind that. 😂
But you did answer a big question for me. If i want to move from North to South, put the barge on a truck.
Hi there. Thanks for posting this. When the hull arrived I counted more windows and portholes than the finished boat had. Was there some 'resealing' of windows or are we seeing different vessels?
Well spotted, we took a production hull and it came with a load of windows I didn’t want so we took them out, welded them up and insulated it.
It would be interesting to see what you could get into a widebeam by applying narrow boat interior design.
Lots of storage and no floor space.
Wow - this is impressive! Great work, and perfectly presented. 144 hours? Was that total labour hours or 144 for each of you? Beautifully done either way :)
Thank you Richard. 144 hours of filming so all in probably 300 hours of labour 👍
@@SuffolkCraftsmen Cracking job guys - 300 hours very well spent - I'm really impressed. There are only a small handful of craftsmen who work to this level.
I'm thinking of buying a 60x12 shell and have it fitted out professionally to a relatively good standard like in this video. As a ballpark figure, how much does such fitting cost including materials and labour? Thanks.
Hi Garen, nice chatting to you. I hope I managed to answer most of your questions but I know I probably raised more than I answered! Chat soon!
would I be correct in thinking that the boat during fitting out is on land?
michael mooney that’s rights Michael.
Great vid, thanks for posting; about to start a fit myself in June; what is that silver sheeting used to double up on the insulation? And what have you used on the ceiling finish? Thanks
Hi Andy, thanks for joining in the conversation. The silver stuff is “YBS Superquilt” it’s a multi layer insulation. Comes on a roll and you simply staple it over the battening then screw new 18mm battens over the top before adding your lining. Cover EVERY square inch, tape the joins and make it air tight. The quilt provides insulation and a moisture barrier, it also forms a thermal break. I would suggest you also do the engine room to prevent condensation and that ‘wet’ engine room that all steel boats seem to have. I lined the ceiling with cedar tng, there are oak mouldings at the joins with the walls and bulkheads.
Hope that helps?
@@SuffolkCraftsmen yes really helpful, thanks for sharing.
@@SuffolkCraftsmen How much is a finished Hull? I am a carpenter/Cabinet maker and would like to build my own.
@@travelswithdan6850 Hi Dan, a bare hull this size, with paint, engine and spray foam so ready to put in the water and fit out cost me about £48k delivered.
@@SuffolkCraftsmen not bad. Though i would want electric.
I lost track, did you have radiant floor heating installed throughout the boat (multi-zone)?
T'airn'KA yes, a wet system heated by a condenser boiler that also provides the hot water.
@@SuffolkCraftsmen Got to keep those tootsies warm ;-)
@@SuffolkCraftsmen Can't see how well it would work in a barge. Your heating all that canal water that is under the boat.
@@travelswithdan6850 Hi Dan, not heating the canal, there is the space under the sole board for the balast and the tubes for the heating are laid in an insulating layer so you dont heat the under floor. Bottom line, it works very well. In the middle of winter, living on board full time, with the heating on, the hot water and all the cooking our energy bill, gas and electric comes in at about £6 a day. In the summer its about £1.50 a day.
all i can say is, gosh darn those guys work fast. i believe they could build a 30 room mansion from the foundation up, in under an hour. color me impressed. i sure would like to know what kind of diet those fellas are on.
John Doe coffee ☕️
@@SuffolkCraftsmen Is this a profession sir, do you renovate boats for other people?
Roc ROCA hi. Thanks for your comment. Yes I do, what have you got?
@@SuffolkCraftsmen Sorry about my late reply, (just busy with work) my wife and I want to purchase a Dutch Barge. We don't know much about boats. Can I contact you to give you details?
@@rocroca7459 certainly, call me on 07522395666
Hi guys just doing some wiring diagrams for my build as I’m told delivery will be mid Aug now 😩. Was wondering how you did your 230 AC stuff? Did you have the big kitchen appliances on individually fused radial circuits or as part of a ring? And how does being on 16A shore power affect how you design this?
Hi Andy. That’s a massive question. In simple terms it’s wired to the latest domestic wiring standards as would be found in a new build. It has a conventional domestic fuse box, rings for sockets and radials for the high load systems like kettle, washing machine, tumble dryer. It also has individual radial feels for the water pump, the ventilation system and the charger.
We have a Victron charger inverted installed that cleverly uses the inverter to top up the shore power should we exceede the 16amps but in fact we designed the system to mainly not need it.
The highest loads are the heating, cooking and hot water demands and they are all gas fired. After that the worst case is trying to boil the kettle while the tumble dryer is on and the wife is ironing.
In a year we have not tripped the shore power and the inverter has only tripped in once.
The average electricity consumption is around 250w/h in the summer and a little higher in the winter with the engine room heater on. For this coming winter I have massively insulated the engine room so I hope we won’t need the heater.
On average half the electricity used is consumed by the ventilation system.
Hope that helps?
Stephen.
Thanks Stephen that does make me feel a bit better about how I had planned my layout. What size mcb’s did you use for your individual radial circuits for things like fridge, freezer, washing machine etc? I have the same Victron unit so again good to hear it is up to the task.
andy bailey hi Andy
I’m not an electrician and in the UK building control does not apply to boats. That said building to the current regs is best practice. If you insist on doing it yourself then get this book On-Site Guide (BS 7671:2018) (Electrical Regulations) www.amazon.co.uk/dp/1785614428/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ZlJkDbVKQ86K6
The best advice I can give you is get a qualified electrician.
VERY impressed.... might benefit you to do a slight re-edit, showing more 'after' photos and adding some easy-listening music and stick on CZcams next to this one and it'll get more views. I'm strongly considering buying a barge.... probably 70 to eighty foot.... would need two double bedrooms and similar set up to the lovely work you did. What would the approx cost be for that? Thank you
Hi. Thanks for your comments and I have been thinking the same. The build cost is entirely dependent on what needs doing and the quality of the materials. For this one we expect to sell finished boats at around £150,000 plus vat. It’s possible to spend less and way to easy to spend a lot more. Call me on 07522395666 if you would like a chat about your plans.
Can i ask how much you paid for she is a beauty
hi, good question. The final price, not including my labour was around £100,000 however that was a few years ago and I honestly dont think it could be built today for less than £140,000 😞
How is the underfloor heating performing? Also first time I have seen someone add extra insulation can I ask why you added more other than the obvious.
Hi andy. so the underfloor heating and the insulation go together. I have lived afloat for most of my life and always had the same set of problems; cost of heating/insulation/ventilation/condensation. This build was aimed at sorting these issues.
Firstly, any cold surface will cause condensation so the insulation must be continous to ensure there was no bridging.
Second, the more insulation the more stable the internal temp will be and the lower the heating bills
Third, heating should be eaven throught the boat.
Fourth, ventilation should not be left to chance.
The hull came sprayfoamed to around 40mm all over. I added a 9 layer superquilt stapled over the battens with a 14mm batten over it to fix the cladding to then 9mm cedar TnG. this is the equivalent of around 100mm of rigid foam insulation but the entire finished thickness of the hull sides and roof is 70mm. I also fitted portlights with thermal break frames and double glazing and the roof lights which are huge are tripple glazed and bonded in.
The heating is delived by a combi LPG boiler [on demand hot water and heating] and conventional domestic wet underfloor heating via a manifold in four zones. it just works.
Ventilation is provided by a VMC - heat recovery and ventilation system sucking all the damp smelly air from the bathroom and kitchen out, scavenging the heat and returning clean pre heated fresh air.
Its performing very well. Firstly its warm and comfortable inside regardless of whats happening outside, there is no condensation anywhere. When its zero outside and you want it 21 inside its using 2kw/h of energy.
Average electrical consumption for the boat is 5kw/h per day, thats about £1 a day of shore power but will be all solar when I install it soon. Winter gas, about 1 x 13kg propane a week.
Winter heating bills £5.50 a day and its warm and comfortable.
Next time I do it; i will use 13 layer superquilt and double it up in the roof space, the aditional cost in the build is very little but the benefit is huge. I will be fitting a bigger heat recovery unit.
Hope that helps?
TheNewKitchen.Co
Thanks that’s very helpful, I will be starting my own build this year and will definitely look into extra insulation now.
Guys could you tell me what product the 9 layer quilt insulation was please, also how much a roll it was and maybe a rough total cost as I’m working it out at around £3600.
andy bailey YBS thermaquilt www.ybsinsulation.com/brands/thermaquilt/ about £80 a roll, 15 square m, I think I bought 8 rolls ?
TheNewKitchen.Co ah ok seems like the same stuff, maybe I over estimated, I’ll be fitting out a 60 x 12 boat and would cover the walls and ceiling.
I brought the same boat, did the fit out, no being funny but this seems a bit OTT for the same result. The extra wall insulation and underfloor heating is not necessary . A good wood burner placed in the centre of the room is fine, also use a solid wood floor, not laminate or carpet as its cold. Soft wood is better and cheaper . I say this so that new buyers don't think it has to be such a big deal and get put off.
Hi Dave
Thanks for your comment. All valid but you might have missed the point, many people build boats as you have described, some want something less traditional. When I built this boat I wanted underfloor heating and I wanted lots of insulation. Both have their benefits. I lived with a wood burner for 12 years in my last boat and hated the hot centre and cold ends of the boat. I also hated the dust everywhere. I hated waking up in a ice box at 6am in the middle of winter and having to get dressed in bed to go feed the fire.
A boat build is a very personal thing, this build reflected the comfort I wanted to live in. I hope that helps?
@@SuffolkCraftsmen hi is the silver insulation the same as tri_iso super 10 quilt? It's what's used on houses, particular loft conversions. Well if so , you will have a toasty dry warm boat with cheaper heating costs. Less damp and mould, but you already know that lol. Also when it's 30c outside it will be as Co as a fridge inside, don't think a good log burner will help it get cool then lol. It's more aimed at the comment above. Great job BTW.
Daz Heb hi Daz, Yes, it’s the 13 layer quilt as you say used in loft conversions and the like. It is amazing insulation being thin and effective. Also, being a wide roll of fabric there are very few joins so very few breaks in the insulation envelope. The underfloor heating gives even heating throughout the boat when a wood burner just heats the space around it and in a 60ft not that leaves the ends very cold! Are you building a boat?
@@SuffolkCraftsmen hi yes I am, it's been in the planning (in my head) since 2003, my mate got one then. Iv had hurdles, ie kids etc, but next year is my time lol. Iv been in the building trade for almost 20 years and have used super quilt many times. Its amazing stuff and have always intended on using it in my boat, yes I know how expensive it is but defo worth it. You're the first person iv come across that's used it on a boat. How does it fair in the winter and summer compared to other boats without the extra insulation. I would imagine there's a big difference particularly in the hot weather. I did the inside of my shed with it and it was amazingly cool in the summer time and it was in full sun, (south facing). Yeah its great stuff, do you know it has the same u value an 120 mm of rock wool?. 👍
Daz Heb how does it compare... ? Well that’s the £1,000 question isn’t it! £1,000 or a bit less is the cost of enough superquilt to line out a 60x12 boat and leave enough to wrap the water tank and line the engine room as well. We live a ours all year round, there in no damp, mould, condensation or draughts. We have it backed up with a forced ventilation system with split heat exchanger so the damp smelly air is dragged out and clean air drawn in with about 80% heat recovery. We also have double glazed port holes and windows with thermal breaks and triple glazed skylights. It’s easy to keep it warm in winter, 20 degrees difference in/out uses about 1kw/h In the summer the boat is naturally cool. You will know there is a lot involved in zero energy builds and I have implemented all the practical things I could on the budget I had. The average energy consumption over the year is 250w/h.
Does it ship to ireland ?
Lucas Oliveira hi Lucas. Yes it does. On the back of a lorry. When would you like it delivered?
What type of boiler did you use to heat the underfloor heating
Gregory Maymon hi, it’s a Baxi condenser boiler, standard domestic one re jetted for LPG. The heating is in 4 zones. The boiler also supplies on demand hot water. Hope that helps?
Thanks, I am just about to start my widebeam and it’s confused me why everyone goes for Webasto heaters instead of combi boilers, ?? It’s probably because the power the pump uses on the underfloor heating
But also I like the way you insulated the floor, why does nobody do that as standard ?
Gregory Maymon I guess the choice is around 12v dc or 230v ac as your main system. 12v is a lot less expensive! 230v ac means a good battery bank and an inverter/charger. I have a Victron. But once your committed every thing is simple and you dont have to have a 12v fridge etc. We have a washing machine, tumble dryer, big fridge freezer etc. Heating and cooking is all gas. We live aboard all year round and the average mains power consumption is 250w per hour. With that good battery bank and 1kw of solar panels we are almost power neutral.
Gregory Maymon oh and insulating the floor... there is plenty of head room so an inch of insulation is worth every penny so the heating heats the boat not the water!
Sounds great, I have a Victron multi plus 3000 , solar panels at a1050 watts and 3 x 200 amp hr lithium batteries, I left space for another 2 batteries just in case I ever have any money again 😂 . The 12v appliances on the market are a joke, cost, function, quality. I’m going the same way as you have so it’s good to hear from your experience.
I found smeg do gas ovens and hobs so that’s good to know for power saving. If you have any moor good advice for me I would be grateful to hear about it, cheers Greg
Amazing job!! You able to say how much it cost to rip everything out and then revamp everything?
Hi. That’s a big question! Depends on what size the boat is and what needs doing. The one on the video was a new build and cost around £40,000 to fit out including heating, plumbing, wiring and all charging systems. We are about to refit a 60ft narrow boat and that’s budgeted at £25,000. Hope that helps? Feel free to call if you want to know more. 07522395666.
Can you tell me about the engine - diesel?, mfg?, and horsepower?
p52457 not very exciting, 50hp 4cylinder diesel.
@@SuffolkCraftsmen manufacture ? is there a preferred brand? Thanks in advance !
p52457 hi. It’s a no name engine, it’s got a manufacture plate that says something like Korea. I’m not up to date on engine technology but this one is simple and functional.
Not quite sure what’s happening here, did you buy what’s known as a sail away and organize the fit out yourself or is this what you do professionally?
Hi. Great question. I bought a sail away hull and fitted it out, it is what I do professionally but it is also the one I built for myself.
@@SuffolkCraftsmen so you do a full service ie supply the sail away and do the fit out, or the customer supply’s the sail away and you do the fit out? Are you about the same in cost as the boat builder with the fit out included, or are you coming in under on the fit out? Sorry for so many questions. Please send contact details or web site. Thanks Andy
@@Tawny6702 hi Andy. Cost is entirely dependant on the size of the boat, level of fit, quality of fittings etc. The boat you see in this video had a fit out cost of about £40k but it could have been as little as 30 and at the other end of the scale you could easily spend 100k. Feel free to call me on 08522395666 to discuss. Stephen.
@@SuffolkCraftsmen Hi Steven, we are currently in the US but returning to UK early next year, and we are looking at a 57 x 10 sail away, so with some level of standard central heating and medium standard of fittings etc what could we expect a fit out like that to run.....just ball park, obviously it can’t be exact, but just to give us an idea.
@@Tawny6702 hi Andy, such a tough question! Somewhere over £20k not as much as 40! Probably budget 30 and a contingency? Where do you want to put the boat when it’s complete?
144 hours build time is very impressive. How many actual man hours is that though? 600? I suppose it being a widebeam can be quicker because there is more space to work in but seriously that is fast work. Great job
Hi, thanks for your comment. The reality is I built most of the boat single handed and I was there for all of the 144 hours [estimated based on the timelapse footage].
I also contracted specialist services; an electrician and his apprentice, about 20 hours each. A heating engineer to comission the boiler, about 4 hours. My carpentry apprentice, about 30 hours. My wife did some painting and prep work, about 20 hours.
Total; 238 hours.
The things that contribute to getting the job done quickly were; a clear plan for every item, all materials ordered and delivery dates scheduled, all trades booked and scheduled.
Plan, plan, plan.
@@SuffolkCraftsmen Thanks for the reply. I will refit a boat 1 day. . .just a small 1
I bet that wasn't cheap!
Actually I have no idea what these things cost, but a couple of years ago when I was considering moving back to the U.K., my wife and I had a few hours of 2nd hand boat searching on the 'net, and I was shocked at the cost of a boat now.
EDIT.
I see from a comment below that this video is not from a customer, but a provider. I did not realise to begin with.
staninjapan07 hi. Thanks for your message. Yes I am the boat builder. New price for a finished boat starts at £150k
Sorry but too fast. How can you enjoy craftsmen working at the speed of light?
Gordon Clark I’m not sure CZcams would allow a 6 week video 😁
This should be a lot faster I think
why is there no music or commentary?
Louis Deckman cos I’m a boat builder, not a film maker 👍
Anyone else notice they seem to be sitting on their asses quite a bit?
That’s important thinking time... and moments to reflect... and drink coffee.