On an atoll in French Polynesia with nearest outboard mechanic over 250 miles away. Followed your video and it worked. thanks. Really good video and explanations.
Thanks for this video. It now made me comfortable doing this job myself at my garage here in Norway. Good video quality and a good explanation make a difference. A tip, buy yourself a set of Wera screwdrivers, you will love them :)
I had a 65 horse 1972 model evinrude with 75 hp carbs on it and it ran like a beast, and idled great, started easy too.. what evinrude did was restrict the carb throats diameter, to govern the 75 horse down to a 65.. The reed plate behind the carbs has 75 hp holes, so all you have to do is put 75 hp carbs on it,.,, I sold that boat, but picked up another 65 hp.. It is the electric shift model, and one of the solenoids are bad in the lower unit.. hoping u make a vid on the hydro electric shift evinrudes.. you explain everything very well. liked and subscribed,, also alot of people shy away from the old hydro electric shift models but the one I had was super reliable as long as I owned, and you dont have to dickk around with shift cables and link and sync.. those old 65 evinrudes were some of the very best motors ever made.. lightweight for the horsepower, thick casting blocks, simple carburetors. ect.. I wish they made and sold them brand new I would definetely get one,,
You’ve gained a follower today. Thanks so much for the video. It helped me fixed my 1996 Johnson hp 15 outboard motor that i thought it’d go in the trash lol
You helped me to get my motor running like a top again after almost being defeated, the gas line going into the carb was plugged after a very thorough cleaning of the carb, taking the screw to drain the carb fixed it right up. Thank you very much for your help!
thank you, i have the same exact engine, carb was super clean when i undid it, and the issue was the plugs... looked ok, but changing'em fixed all the hesitations and stalling
Awesome video, thanks a lot. I recently purchased a 2000 9.9 Johnson that has the identical problem. So after the cleaning, new plugs and you left the screw at about 1/4 turn in?
Great info Have the same motor, just got it, what do ya think the reason behind me having to choke it even after it has been ran and warmed up. It also does have an idling issue, so maybe when I rebuild it that will help not having to choke it to crank it every single time
Always scared of messin with carbies, but this gives me the confidence to give mine a clean. I've a Merc 15 2 stroke, hasnt been serviced but has run fantastic for 10 years so I bet the carb needs a little TLC.
I just fixed my 89' 9.9 Evinrude by hauling it off to the repair shop 😂 replaced EVERYTHING possible! Been struggling with it for 2 years! rebuilt the carb 3 times, replaced carb top and float bowl still wouldn't run without the choke on. And it's not easy finding a shop that will work on old 2 strokes
Hi there, I just bought a 2021 used Yamaha 2.5 very little hours. Started it for first time today in a closed loop circuit (my bucket). Was very eager to run it and the only water I could get was from a hot water hose as the cold water supply was closed for the winter. I went through different rpms and ran it max rpms in neutral for probably 2-3 mins, water in bucket was very hot. Engine shut off and made a quick cranking sound. Couldn't get it to start again. Checked compression by putting my finger by the spark plug hole and didn't feel any compression. Put an inline spark plug tester and the tester blinks when I pull the coil. Could the hot water have damaged the outboard? Any next steps to diagnose what needs fixing? Thanks!
I would have checked the plugs long before messing with the carb.. It would have saved a lot of time and effort. Hope the customer wasnt paying by the hour.
Absolutely right, a good mechanic checks and does the easy things first (plugs). An easy fix for these carburetors is to take the idle adjustment screw out and squirt carb cleaner in the hole then reinstall idle adjustment screw. No carburetor assembly required!!
And if it has NGK plugs, replace them with Champions. NGKs do not play well with Evinrude/Johnson 2-strokes. I hate Champion plugs in cars, but they work best for small engines
Good video I have a 15 evinrude 2 stroke that was running and idling great new fuel new tank new hose ,went about 2 miles down River killed it then it wouldn’t start by messing with throttle it finally crank got it back to boat ramp where she died and wouldn’t start again, replaced fuel pump , cleaned carburetor, reaaplaced coil pack, new plugs, and finally the power pack cranking fine one then first time back on water middle of lake same scenario I killed it and would not start Finlay started but would not idle any ideas ?
I have a ‘93 8hp Johnson with a similar issue. Is the knob at the end of the tiller an idle adjustment? I can’t feel any tension when I turn it and am wondering if that’s the problem(and a simple fix)
I messed with so many things trying to resolve my johnson not idling. The thing that ended up mostly fixing the issue was spark plugs. I do think i still need a timing adjustment though
What year of motor is that? I have a 1997 Evinrude Got spark and fuel (squirt bottle) but won't fire? Cleaned up the carburetor and remounted. Mice had gotten into the carburetor.
one thing I see with the pee tube is a service bulletin from the 80's era. The hose from the engine to the pee hole needs to be lengthened and re-positioned so that that hose runs along the top of cylinder one. The problem was water at low speed was not reaching the top cylinder enough to keep it cooled and repositioning the hose so it loops over the top cylinder fixed it on all models and sizes of omc engines. Actually no matter the make of the engine, ity still needs routed in that way. Easy fix folks and can extend the life of the engine by decades.
I have same motor I fixed that issue now when I put boat in water motor won’t push boat as it should as if it’s not idling up all the way . Now I have no spark on spark plug fixing to change out power pack is the power pack the reason I wasn’t getting up and going on the water ?
Did you ever get to the late 70's mercury ? Is it a thunderbolt that the motor I just got and it has the same problem wont idle, so gonna work my magic thanks to you
very good video mate . i have a 25 hp 1979 Johnson which has a similiar problem . would it be the same procedure for the carby on the 25 hp . thanks , North Queensland , Australia .
I have a Johnson about the same year as this pretty much the same motor I just bought it. It don’t want to idle and don’t have the power it should. I cleaned the carb seemed to help a little but not much.. I have 85psi on both cylinders. Looks like it has been ran hot because they have sealant all around the thermostat housing but everything else looks like it’s never been touched. it’s electric start and won’t start unless you pull it also when it warms up it’s a pain to start at all. Do you think that could be because of the low compression or possibly something else
On that same note I’m changing the head gasket to see if that helps put some compression back in it. Do you know of a way I can check the rings without going any further than taking the head off
Yeah I caught that too . It also should be explained that the carb bowl screws should be tightened according to the numbers embossed on the bowl itself ( 1-7 ) to keep from cracking the plastic .
The idle screw can adjust air or fuel 4 or 2 stroke depending on carb manufacture the tell is generally the location of the screw if located in top area of carb. Then it adjust air if located near bottom half/bowl of carb then adjusts fuel. So as in on the carb in this video idle screw is likely adjusting the air. Not fuel
You seated that adjustment screw 3.5 turns in but then pulled it out only 3 turns? Also, make sure you guys watching look for rubber o-rings inside those needles and adjustment screws? Gotta pick them out with a pick and flashlight before cleaning and dumping into Chem-Dip...
I just purchased this exact engine and the fuel line where it connects to the engine has slop in it and leaks fuel when pumping primer bulb. Which side of the connector needs replaced?
Can old spark plugs cause the engine to shut off at idle? I’ve got a 2004 Johnson 150 that runs great above idle but shuts off at idle in the water. It does not shut off at idle when on muffs. Just got back from taking it on the river and running some Seafoam through ; it seemed to get better but still shut off at idle. We also noticed throttle up isn’t applied until the lever is half way in the forward position out of neutral. Could the throttle cable need adjustment? I’m going to try running it in idle on muffs with some Seafoam in the gas and see if that helps for our next outing in the boat. If the boat runs fine everywhere else, could the plugs still be the cause of stalling at idle? They are very old and definitely need replacement.
Had a 1990's Johnson Seaking 15hp outboards short shaft like this motor. Had the exact same problem before but then the motor just stopped entirely. Took apart the carb and cleaned it thoroughly and checked all of the inner workings of the carb to make sure that they were working and in the right spot. Put it back together. Started up and ran for like 3 seconds with high rpm but died again. So decided to try and tune it a bit. But it did absolutely nothing. So, took apart the carb again and cleaned it again. Put it back together and did the exact same thing. So I tried to tune it again but did not work one bit. Got new spark plugs and still did not work. There was spark, gas, and I know air was getting into the engine. Decided to just sell it. Was too much of the pain. Had that motor for the longest time and it has been giving me problems for the past 4 years know leaving me and my grandpa stranded out on the river a cupule of times and dying as soon as we get to the docks too. Looking for a 25hp now and just hoping the next motor doesn't give us a headache like the 15hp we had. Was a good motor while it lasted and defiantly got the john boat up to speed on the Mississippi. Sad to see it go but you gotta do what you gotta do.
Nice job, so what do you think would be the issue if a small outboard idols well but when you give it extra throttle at speed it bogs down and turns off
At the bogg spray brake clean into the carb at wide open throttle. If the bog gos away and revs it's lack of fuel issue. If it gets worse it's a spark or weak spark issue
@@blueback21 any arisol fuel will work. He'll even hair spray would do the trick. Don't do it for prolong times on a two stroke tho. Because obviously it dosnt contain oil
My plugs are new, my coils and wires are new, my carb is new, my compression is 135-143 Pistons 2-1. The fuel line is new, the gas is new, the starter and solenoid are all new. What do you think might be wrong with mine? Its a 1978 Johnson seahorse 35. Model number 35EL78R
I have a 2004 3 cylinder 2 stroke 60 up mercury outboard. It starts okay but spits and backfires and will stall when in idle. I changed the plugs out but didn't change much. Any tips to fix this?
NGK's are the incorrect plug. Champion L7744/L77JC4'S are the correct ones. Im sure it was cold out, but always a good idea to check the cyl head temp too!
I have a 25 hp1985 Mariner two stroke that ran well and suddenly when I last used it when I tried to apply power it work start to rev up rpm and suddenly would troll back in rpm when ONLY on the boat in the water under load my mechanic checked it out fully out of the lake not under load and said there was not problem but it will not rev up/speed up under load in the lake What is my issue
Ahh yes. The works when it's home but not on the river problem. Most of the time that things run great when not loaded but have a major lack of power it's related to a cdi box or coils. You need to buy a spark gap tool. It's a spark tester that gos inline to your spark plug wire but has an adjustable gap. The spark should jump over 1/2 an inch. I'm eilling to bet you have week spark. Enough spark to run perfect with no load but not enough spark to make power under load
When you got stuck gaskets like that just loosen of the bolts and lev them in ther, and give the cover a wack whit the backside of the screwdriver, 9 times out of 10 that will loosen the gasket and you don’t have to pry and risking to crack something 👍🏻
You need to do a leakdown test. You can find a leak down tester on amzon or harbor freight. Run the piston to TDC, then fire up the aircompressor and pressurize the cylinder. I'm assuming this is a two stroke. When under pressure if it is leaking air out of the carberators then yes needs rings/now an anchor. If it's leaking out into the other sparkplug hole or out of the prop/exhaust. Is possible that a headgasket is needed
@AttitudeAdjuster ok. Ya just make shur your piston is all the way to the head. You could use a straw in the spark plug hole. If it's low at all it will be open to an intake or exhaust port
I'd like to add that those needle valves get stuck, because they are old and create a memory on the seat. You have to replace. It's good to also good to remove jet and clean, but only if you know .
Ahh I see. I need to do a video on tuning. Yes a good starting point is 1.5 turns out. If it won't idle at that you have somting else going on. Should idle a bit fat at 1.5 turns. Remember 2 strokes out is fat in is lean. 4 strokes in is lean out is fat
@@CAPTAINWILLY how would an outboard run the gas tank is not vented. I just found out mine wasn't venting when I was running could that be something that would make the motor run not very well.
When I run my 9.9Hp 2 Stroke kicker I am left with the same result everytime - the interior of my prop will be covered with a milky oil and water mixture. Is this a sign of too much fuel being sent through the motor and resulting in unburnt fuel exiting through the exhaust?
Thanks for the reply - the lower end oil is topped up. I drained it in the fall and ensured there was no water present. This has been going on for years with the motor. Often times after running the motor on the lake.. it will take 3-4 days to notice a heavy black oil slowly starting to drip from my prop... I was assuming this was left over fuel evaporating from the system and allowing the mixed oil to run down through the exhaust. Just today I noticed the milky substance after running the motor out of water on muffs
I should also mention this is a 9.9hp motor I'm running to achieve a 2mph trolling speed.. so more times than not the motor is sitting just slightly above a low idle.. I've also consistently had spark plugs foul as they get wet and dark
Hi Mister Willamette (that's an original name my friend!!) (Mine is very nice too but you win hahaha!!). I just want to introducing me and say i'm new on your channel : ) Very nice voice and usefull video tx a lot for that : ) See you later bye bye!!
Nb. I'm not a novice in mechanic (all over many mechanic stuf you know) So because i love the way you work (similar to me) I put your link right on my facebook page news : ) I will check your other videos anyway So ... ; )
OK.........I know you were dying to show us how to disassemble a carb and you did a fine job of it, but your motor was a small one and already off the boat. Mine is a Yamaha 50 with 3 carbs, on a pontoon, in the water, and it's gonna be a B^%$ch to get it into my parking lot on dry land so I can pull those carbs off. Since I already know how to do what you showed and because I believe in applying the KISS Principle whenever possible, doesn't it make more sense for me to check my plugs and maybe fiddle with the idle adjustment screws BEFORE I do all that other stuff? Mine will idle nicely for about a minute and then croak, as if it is starving for fuel. I get the feeling that if I could just give it a little more gas at idle it would run fine and all I've got to do is get knee deep in some water to do that, much easier than renting a truck and pulling the booger out of the water. Great video and you have an easy instruction style, so well worth the watch. Thanks..............
No offense, but this is not the right way to do this job. I mean to press the plastic parts with razor blade and knife? What you called idle jet on the bottom is the main jet. The other is the needle valve seat, not the main jet. The fuel does not go up on there but goes in to the carb on it. On that carb the numbers show the order to tight the bolts to help not to brake the plastic bowl and the top cover. The lot of smoke because the idle/low speed mixture screw is still open more like needs. The NGK is not the right spark plug on these Johnsons/Evinrudes. Again, no offense but it's a thing to do a job and another to teach that with misinformations. I just wanted to help.
Congratulations. Yes you are correct. Why did you watch the video? Yes my terminology on a few parts was wrong. As far using the wrong tools....like a knife.. duh. Lol it's what I had handy. Ngk is not the "factory" spark plug i agree. But let's be real it's a better spark plug. I find it interesting that such an expert like your self hunts down a video. Like this one. In reality you don't even have carb problems. Do you.. just trolling?
Ok so nobody noticed. You screwed in the idle mixture 3-1/2 turns. (Watch it). Then said “3 turns”. I went back to check 3-1/2 turns. So you set the jet to three and it would idle. It would not idle at 3-1/2 which is where it was when you received the motor. Best idle ended up at 2-3/4. Plugs were fouled from too rich mixture. So this painful experience could have been much more easily solved by new plugs and adjusting the idle mixture screw.
@@CAPTAINWILLY might be normal i guess. Johnson and Evinrude are no longer in business but they recommend we screw the rich lean adjustment all the way in and out 1/4 turn. They built good engines
Lol. Well that's a good starting point shur. There were many factors involved in them going out but there still a marine business. Just focusing on rotax brp stuff now. The amount of smoke in this video is likely due to the quality quality of the fuel I was using. This is a test tank that might see 3 gallons of use a year
@@CAPTAINWILLY my friend has an old mercury Comet. His other friend couldnt get it running but i did. Problem is it wont idle only run at mid to high rpm.
Excellent video taken at a realistic pace and well explained. Above all no distracting background 'music'!
The confident you gave me to open my boat engine cover is unmeasurable thank you. best video worth my time
On an atoll in French Polynesia with nearest outboard mechanic over 250 miles away. Followed your video and it worked. thanks. Really good video and explanations.
Niiiiice
You got some balls going that remote without basic engine maintenance skills
@@LezlyBeetz Polynesians did that for many centuries just using sails.
I’m a novice boat owner and this video really dumbed it down for me. I’m a sold subscriber
Yur awesome brotha
I JUST HAD THIS ISSUE ON THE WEEKEND SIMULAR TO WHAT YOU DONE GREAT SHOW TKS
Thanks for this video. It now made me comfortable doing this job myself at my garage here in Norway. Good video quality and a good explanation make a difference. A tip, buy yourself a set of Wera screwdrivers, you will love them :)
I had a 65 horse 1972 model evinrude with 75 hp carbs on it and it ran like a beast, and idled great, started easy too.. what evinrude did was restrict the carb throats diameter, to govern the 75 horse down to a 65.. The reed plate behind the carbs has 75 hp holes, so all you have to do is put 75 hp carbs on it,.,, I sold that boat, but picked up another 65 hp.. It is the electric shift model, and one of the solenoids are bad in the lower unit.. hoping u make a vid on the hydro electric shift evinrudes.. you explain everything very well. liked and subscribed,,
also alot of people shy away from the old hydro electric shift models but the one I had was super reliable as long as I owned, and you dont have to dickk around with shift cables and link and sync.. those old 65 evinrudes were some of the very best motors ever made.. lightweight for the horsepower, thick casting blocks, simple carburetors. ect.. I wish they made and sold them brand new I would definetely get one,,
This is the only video on the internet with the solution to my problem! Lol
-Thanks
Exactly the video I needed! I know what my weekend project is going to be.
This was very helpful and the best instructional video I’ve seen on doing the rebuild.
Thanks!!
That’s exactly what video I was looking for. Thanks!
You’ve gained a follower today. Thanks so much for the video. It helped me fixed my 1996 Johnson hp 15 outboard motor that i thought it’d go in the trash lol
I've watched a lot of u tube and you explained it so well thank you Chris from the snowbelt of ohio
Thanks brotha
Just want to thank you. I've "cleaned my carb" never done it and it's been running exactly like this but getting worse so now I can do it right
Great video, really enjoyed watching and learning. Just picked up 1991 Gamefisher 9.9
You helped me to get my motor running like a top again after almost being defeated, the gas line going into the carb was plugged after a very thorough cleaning of the carb, taking the screw to drain the carb fixed it right up. Thank you very much for your help!
Aaaachuu. Corona! Lol. Thx for the informative vid. I learned lots. Watching from Ontario Canada
thank you, i have the same exact engine, carb was super clean when i undid it, and the issue was the plugs... looked ok, but changing'em fixed all the hesitations and stalling
Awesome video, thanks a lot. I recently purchased a 2000 9.9 Johnson that has the identical problem. So after the cleaning, new plugs and you left the screw at about 1/4 turn in?
Great info Have the same motor, just got it, what do ya think the reason behind me having to choke it even after it has been ran and warmed up. It also does have an idling issue, so maybe when I rebuild it that will help not having to choke it to crank it every single time
Always scared of messin with carbies, but this gives me the confidence to give mine a clean. I've a Merc 15 2 stroke, hasnt been serviced but has run fantastic for 10 years so I bet the carb needs a little TLC.
Seafoam! Run a 12oz can through it each year, use ethanol free gas, and you'll never have an issue.
I just fixed my 89' 9.9 Evinrude by hauling it off to the repair shop 😂 replaced EVERYTHING possible! Been struggling with it for 2 years! rebuilt the carb 3 times, replaced carb top and float bowl still wouldn't run without the choke on. And it's not easy finding a shop that will work on old 2 strokes
I told you I watch them all! Much better hands than me! Boat wizard!
Awesome vid. Thanks!
You remind me of AvE
Great job on video
Hope to see more
Hi there, I just bought a 2021 used Yamaha 2.5 very little hours. Started it for first time today in a closed loop circuit (my bucket). Was very eager to run it and the only water I could get was from a hot water hose as the cold water supply was closed for the winter. I went through different rpms and ran it max rpms in neutral for probably 2-3 mins, water in bucket was very hot. Engine shut off and made a quick cranking sound. Couldn't get it to start again. Checked compression by putting my finger by the spark plug hole and didn't feel any compression. Put an inline spark plug tester and the tester blinks when I pull the coil. Could the hot water have damaged the outboard? Any next steps to diagnose what needs fixing?
Thanks!
I would have checked the plugs long before messing with the carb.. It would have saved a lot of time and effort. Hope the customer wasnt paying by the hour.
Absolutely right, a good mechanic checks and does the easy things first (plugs). An easy fix for these carburetors is to take the idle adjustment screw out and squirt carb cleaner in the hole then reinstall idle adjustment screw. No carburetor assembly required!!
And if it has NGK plugs, replace them with Champions. NGKs do not play well with Evinrude/Johnson 2-strokes.
I hate Champion plugs in cars, but they work best for small engines
I.
Have a 1993 evinrude 15 hp. Would you please tell me what the knob on the end of the throttle is for.
Thank you.
Good video I have a 15 evinrude 2 stroke that was running and idling great new fuel new tank new hose ,went about 2 miles down River killed it then it wouldn’t start by messing with throttle it finally crank got it back to boat ramp where she died and wouldn’t start again, replaced fuel pump , cleaned carburetor, reaaplaced coil pack, new plugs, and finally the power pack cranking fine one then first time back on water middle of lake same scenario I killed it and would not start Finlay started but would not idle any ideas ?
I have a ‘93 8hp Johnson with a similar issue. Is the knob at the end of the tiller an idle adjustment? I can’t feel any tension when I turn it and am wondering if that’s the problem(and a simple fix)
Great video mate!
I messed with so many things trying to resolve my johnson not idling.
The thing that ended up mostly fixing the issue was spark plugs.
I do think i still need a timing adjustment though
Awesome video!!!
What do the springs that support the lid look like?
What model is that motor? I just bought one that looks exactly the same but haven’t been able to find the model number ANYWHERE. Thanks for any info
Hi, do you think if you just turn 1/4 back the idle, end change spark plug, the job dunn, is at ok...?
What should the park plug gap be set to
What year of motor is that?
I have a 1997 Evinrude
Got spark and fuel (squirt bottle) but won't fire?
Cleaned up the carburetor and remounted.
Mice had gotten into the carburetor.
one thing I see with the pee tube is a service bulletin from the 80's era. The hose from the engine to the pee hole needs to be lengthened and re-positioned so that that hose runs along the top of cylinder one. The problem was water at low speed was not reaching the top cylinder enough to keep it cooled and repositioning the hose so it loops over the top cylinder fixed it on all models and sizes of omc engines. Actually no matter the make of the engine, ity still needs routed in that way. Easy fix folks and can extend the life of the engine by decades.
I have same motor I fixed that issue now when I put boat in water motor won’t push boat as it should as if it’s not idling up all the way . Now I have no spark on spark plug fixing to change out power pack is the power pack the reason I wasn’t getting up and going on the water ?
Do you think it might have been the plugs all along?
I had to grind down a 7/16 closed-end wrench to get the right side carb bolt off.
Did you ever get to the late 70's mercury ? Is it a thunderbolt that the motor I just got and it has the same problem wont idle, so gonna work my magic thanks to you
very good video mate . i have a 25 hp 1979 Johnson which has a similiar problem . would it be the same procedure for the carby on the 25 hp . thanks , North Queensland , Australia .
Try your primer first. if it doesn't get hard look at the fuel pump.
Taking you very much ❤
I have a Johnson about the same year as this pretty much the same motor I just bought it. It don’t want to idle and don’t have the power it should. I cleaned the carb seemed to help a little but not much.. I have 85psi on both cylinders. Looks like it has been ran hot because they have sealant all around the thermostat housing but everything else looks like it’s never been touched. it’s electric start and won’t start unless you pull it also when it warms up it’s a pain to start at all. Do you think that could be because of the low compression or possibly something else
On that same note I’m changing the head gasket to see if that helps put some compression back in it. Do you know of a way I can check the rings without going any further than taking the head off
Definitely low compression. Should be 130-135 p.s.i. on both cylinders
But the wood shed is also awesome. Great carb detail
Bottom jet is the main jet. What you’re calling the main jet is just the needle valve seat.
Yeah I caught that too . It also should be explained that the carb bowl screws should be tightened according to the numbers embossed on the bowl itself ( 1-7 ) to keep from cracking the plastic .
Great video. Thanks for the help!
يا حبذا تشرح على تفكيك صندوق السرع الكير بوكس للمكينة جوهنسون ٣٥ حصان
The idle screw can adjust air or fuel 4 or 2 stroke depending on carb manufacture the tell is generally the location of the screw if located in top area of carb. Then it adjust air if located near bottom half/bowl of carb then adjusts fuel. So as in on the carb in this video idle screw is likely adjusting the air. Not fuel
I could use your help with the carb on a 1989 8 hp Evinrude.
wait, so was the issue with the no idle the spark plugs and not the carb?
Thank you!
You seated that adjustment screw 3.5 turns in but then pulled it out only 3 turns? Also, make sure you guys watching look for rubber o-rings inside those needles and adjustment screws? Gotta pick them out with a pick and flashlight before cleaning and dumping into Chem-Dip...
How to raise idle RPM on eventide 20 HP ? Just on lingage ?
I just purchased this exact engine and the fuel line where it connects to the engine has slop in it and leaks fuel when pumping primer bulb. Which side of the connector needs replaced?
Just pick one side, and if that doesn't fix it, then replace the other side too.
Can old spark plugs cause the engine to shut off at idle? I’ve got a 2004 Johnson 150 that runs great above idle but shuts off at idle in the water. It does not shut off at idle when on muffs.
Just got back from taking it on the river and running some Seafoam through ; it seemed to get better but still shut off at idle. We also noticed throttle up isn’t applied until the lever is half way in the forward position out of neutral. Could the throttle cable need adjustment?
I’m going to try running it in idle on muffs with some Seafoam in the gas and see if that helps for our next outing in the boat. If the boat runs fine everywhere else, could the plugs still be the cause of stalling at idle? They are very old and definitely need replacement.
Had the same problem on mine. Turned out to be spark plug wires believe it or not.
@@jstay0 nah figured it out; rebuilt the carbs, one of the float needles got stuck almost closed. Purrs like a kitten now
*sneeze* "CARONA!" Has me rolling on the floor laughing!
What about the ideal know at end of tiller arm
I found a green Bucklite just like that in a tacklebox that fell off some guy's boat, who knows how many decades ago. The lake is down about 20 feet.
Had a 1990's Johnson Seaking 15hp outboards short shaft like this motor. Had the exact same problem before but then the motor just stopped entirely. Took apart the carb and cleaned it thoroughly and checked all of the inner workings of the carb to make sure that they were working and in the right spot. Put it back together. Started up and ran for like 3 seconds with high rpm but died again. So decided to try and tune it a bit. But it did absolutely nothing. So, took apart the carb again and cleaned it again. Put it back together and did the exact same thing. So I tried to tune it again but did not work one bit. Got new spark plugs and still did not work. There was spark, gas, and I know air was getting into the engine. Decided to just sell it. Was too much of the pain. Had that motor for the longest time and it has been giving me problems for the past 4 years know leaving me and my grandpa stranded out on the river a cupule of times and dying as soon as we get to the docks too. Looking for a 25hp now and just hoping the next motor doesn't give us a headache like the 15hp we had. Was a good motor while it lasted and defiantly got the john boat up to speed on the Mississippi. Sad to see it go but you gotta do what you gotta do.
Nice job, so what do you think would be the issue if a small outboard idols well but when you give it extra throttle at speed it bogs down and turns off
At the bogg spray brake clean into the carb at wide open throttle. If the bog gos away and revs it's lack of fuel issue. If it gets worse it's a spark or weak spark issue
@@CAPTAINWILLY Do you mean brake cleaner or carb cleaner I can’t find bogg spray brake clean
@@blueback21 any arisol fuel will work. He'll even hair spray would do the trick. Don't do it for prolong times on a two stroke tho. Because obviously it dosnt contain oil
@@CAPTAINWILLY agreed! I threw a rod in my 9.9 Evinrude using starter fluid can't emphasize enough not to use anything without oil in it
Also your external fuel line too.. took me 2 days to find out my fuel line and hand pump was shot.. my 1985 evinrude now runs strong!
Is it good to let these 2 stroke idle for a long time or run at low rpm ?
No! They have to run a little rich to provide proper crankcase lubrication. Low rpms for more than a few minutes will foul spark plugs.
My plugs are new, my coils and wires are new, my carb is new, my compression is 135-143 Pistons 2-1. The fuel line is new, the gas is new, the starter and solenoid are all new. What do you think might be wrong with mine?
Its a 1978 Johnson seahorse 35. Model number 35EL78R
Carbon build up on the exhaust port, crank seals or reeds?
I have a 1984 sec Florida Gators Buck knife that is identical to the one you have there
The air box is mainly for silencing that is its main purpose.
I have a 2004 3 cylinder 2 stroke 60 up mercury outboard. It starts okay but spits and backfires and will stall when in idle. I changed the plugs out but didn't change much. Any tips to fix this?
Check reed valves
@@huntmasterjames ended up rebuilding fuel pump and changing fuel filter. Runs like a dream now.
@@katiedolfman6496 good deal
NGK's are the incorrect plug. Champion L7744/L77JC4'S are the correct ones. Im sure it was cold out, but always a good idea to check the cyl head temp too!
Such an expert .. digging around the internet to comment on a novice level repair video. That's odd.
I have a 25 hp1985 Mariner two stroke that ran well and suddenly when I last used it when I tried to apply power it work start to rev up rpm and suddenly would troll back in rpm when ONLY on the boat in the water under load my mechanic checked it out fully out of the lake not under load and said there was not problem but it will not rev up/speed up under load in the lake What is my issue
Ahh yes. The works when it's home but not on the river problem. Most of the time that things run great when not loaded but have a major lack of power it's related to a cdi box or coils. You need to buy a spark gap tool. It's a spark tester that gos inline to your spark plug wire but has an adjustable gap. The spark should jump over 1/2 an inch. I'm eilling to bet you have week spark. Enough spark to run perfect with no load but not enough spark to make power under load
When you got stuck gaskets like that just loosen of the bolts and lev them in ther, and give the cover a wack whit the backside of the screwdriver, 9 times out of 10 that will loosen the gasket and you don’t have to pry and risking to crack something 👍🏻
my dad bought a 10hp mercury stated would idle and die or start , you put in gear an die. got looked at at dealer and it had a bent crank.
New Subscriber, I have a Johnson 15 Hp with only 55 PSI in both cylinders, What would you suggest? Cheers Garry
Would this make it only a parts motor?
You need to do a leakdown test. You can find a leak down tester on amzon or harbor freight. Run the piston to TDC, then fire up the aircompressor and pressurize the cylinder. I'm assuming this is a two stroke. When under pressure if it is leaking air out of the carberators then yes needs rings/now an anchor. If it's leaking out into the other sparkplug hole or out of the prop/exhaust. Is possible that a headgasket is needed
is it ok at 100 PSI on the compressor or should you lower the pressure in? Thanks for responding and your help Cheers Garry @@CAPTAINWILLY
Yes it is a 2 stroke sorry I missed that part
@@AttitudeAdjuster 100 is fine. Don't go over 180.
@AttitudeAdjuster ok. Ya just make shur your piston is all the way to the head. You could use a straw in the spark plug hole. If it's low at all it will be open to an intake or exhaust port
I'd like to add that those needle valves get stuck, because they are old and create a memory on the seat. You have to replace. It's good to also good to remove jet and clean, but only if you know .
Thanks man
how far for the needle screw should this be. I'm trying to get mine to idle as it dies after a bit of running and kind of chugs before it stops.
I tried between 2 and 4 and can't seem to keep her going for long. carb was cleaned out and everything.
even adjust the throttle where it is between the 2 needles under the fly wheel.
Ahh I see. I need to do a video on tuning.
Yes a good starting point is 1.5 turns out. If it won't idle at that you have somting else going on. Should idle a bit fat at 1.5 turns. Remember 2 strokes out is fat in is lean. 4 strokes in is lean out is fat
@@CAPTAINWILLY how would an outboard run the gas tank is not vented. I just found out mine wasn't venting when I was running could that be something that would make the motor run not very well.
@@CAPTAINWILLY there’s idle adjustment on end of tiller handle isn’t there? There is on mine 93 15hp
upgrade to body cam go pro or hat cam.... you are doing good!
When I run my 9.9Hp 2 Stroke kicker I am left with the same result everytime - the interior of my prop will be covered with a milky oil and water mixture. Is this a sign of too much fuel being sent through the motor and resulting in unburnt fuel exiting through the exhaust?
Just to confirm. Your lower unit oil is always good and full.
Excess fuel could be a rainbow in the water amd black soot never ever will it be milky.
Thanks for the reply - the lower end oil is topped up. I drained it in the fall and ensured there was no water present. This has been going on for years with the motor. Often times after running the motor on the lake.. it will take 3-4 days to notice a heavy black oil slowly starting to drip from my prop... I was assuming this was left over fuel evaporating from the system and allowing the mixed oil to run down through the exhaust. Just today I noticed the milky substance after running the motor out of water on muffs
I should also mention this is a 9.9hp motor I'm running to achieve a 2mph trolling speed.. so more times than not the motor is sitting just slightly above a low idle.. I've also consistently had spark plugs foul as they get wet and dark
Thanks!
Thankyou!!!! Your so welcome!
my 8 horse is doing the exact same thing.,., thanks
Hi Mister Willamette (that's an original name my friend!!) (Mine is very nice too but you win hahaha!!).
I just want to introducing me and say i'm new on your channel : )
Very nice voice and usefull video tx a lot for that : )
See you later bye bye!!
Nb. I'm not a novice in mechanic (all over many mechanic stuf you know)
So because i love the way you work (similar to me) I put your link
right on my facebook page news : )
I will check your other videos anyway So ... ; )
#corona he said lol!! bless you bro!
Did you know there is a screw torque sequence on BOTH the bottom bowl and top air plate?
Also is it required to use a muddy screwdriver and lay the parts down on the muddy ground?
OK.........I know you were dying to show us how to disassemble a carb and you did a fine job of it, but your motor was a small one and already off the boat. Mine is a Yamaha 50 with 3 carbs, on a pontoon, in the water, and it's gonna be a B^%$ch to get it into my parking lot on dry land so I can pull those carbs off. Since I already know how to do what you showed and because I believe in applying the KISS Principle whenever possible, doesn't it make more sense for me to check my plugs and maybe fiddle with the idle adjustment screws BEFORE I do all that other stuff? Mine will idle nicely for about a minute and then croak, as if it is starving for fuel. I get the feeling that if I could just give it a little more gas at idle it would run fine and all I've got to do is get knee deep in some water to do that, much easier than renting a truck and pulling the booger out of the water. Great video and you have an easy instruction style, so well worth the watch. Thanks..............
A small mallet, tap ,tap, tap . Break tension .
Hey, that’s my knife 😂
No offense, but this is not the right way to do this job. I mean to press the plastic parts with razor blade and knife? What you called idle jet on the bottom is the main jet. The other is the needle valve seat, not the main jet. The fuel does not go up on there but goes in to the carb on it. On that carb the numbers show the order to tight the bolts to help not to brake the plastic bowl and the top cover. The lot of smoke because the idle/low speed mixture screw is still open more like needs. The NGK is not the right spark plug on these Johnsons/Evinrudes. Again, no offense but it's a thing to do a job and another to teach that with misinformations. I just wanted to help.
Congratulations. Yes you are correct. Why did you watch the video? Yes my terminology on a few parts was wrong. As far using the wrong tools....like a knife.. duh. Lol it's what I had handy. Ngk is not the "factory" spark plug i agree. But let's be real it's a better spark plug. I find it interesting that such an expert like your self hunts down a video. Like this one. In reality you don't even have carb problems. Do you.. just trolling?
@robertpapp96 glad you got it running for him.
So what was the problem exactly
..air box also saves a lot of intake noise! (WHUT? I CAN'T HEAR YOU, MY 4HP DELUXE IS MAKING SO MUCH NOISE!)
When did Paul Rudd start fixing 2 strokes
id change the impeller too
Buy yourself a couple of handkerchiefs with the money you saved on the screwdriver
Please wake me when you’ve finished
Waterpump is above the line slightly probably why it wasn't pissing right away
You never told us, how many turns the needle had to be set to .....!!!!
Safety glasses. Carb cleaner BURNSlike hell.
I put cigarettes out around gas its flame 🔥
Ok so nobody noticed. You screwed in the idle mixture 3-1/2 turns. (Watch it). Then said “3 turns”. I went back to check 3-1/2 turns.
So you set the jet to three and it would idle. It would not idle at 3-1/2 which is where it was when you received the motor. Best idle ended up at 2-3/4.
Plugs were fouled from too rich mixture.
So this painful experience could have been much more easily solved by new plugs and adjusting the idle mixture screw.
It's a outboard drop it to the bottom of the ocean and it's fixed
Seafoam would’ve fixed that
Too much smoke you running it 50:1??
Yes 50
@@CAPTAINWILLY might be normal i guess. Johnson and Evinrude are no longer in business but they recommend we screw the rich lean adjustment all the way in and out 1/4 turn. They built good engines
Lol. Well that's a good starting point shur. There were many factors involved in them going out but there still a marine business. Just focusing on rotax brp stuff now. The amount of smoke in this video is likely due to the quality quality of the fuel I was using. This is a test tank that might see 3 gallons of use a year
@@CAPTAINWILLY my friend has an old mercury Comet. His other friend couldnt get it running but i did. Problem is it wont idle only run at mid to high rpm.