Very good information. I just rebuilt my front shocks on my 98 wing. Was a mess...both tubes were rusted/pitted. Your tip on the thread alignment for the fork cap was invaluable. Thanks for the video!
VERY helpful information, thank you! Dunno whether ya'll 'WING-NUTS realize, but the 41mm TRAC fork is highly desirable to the DOHC-4 Honda enthusiasts, CB900F & CB1100F, CB1100R, etc - Though I'VE also recently figured out that the ''96+ ST1100A aka ST1100-ABS-TCS, has a 43mm TRAC fork - albeit only on the one side, sad to say. But it can still make for one FANTASTIC replica of the NS500/RS500/NSR500 43mm TRAC fork. The 316mm rotors are hella cool too. And ya'll 'WING-NUTS should pay attention as well: that 316mm rotor size corresponds to the GL1500SE rear discs stuck onto the GL1500 front wheel! I've ALSO been trying to figure out a wire-spoke conversion of that wheel, a "Faux-Leading-Shoe" fake DRUM hub, four-leading-shoe type that is. Kindalike people have been doing with the CBX550F "inboard disc" front brake. Seems like the PC800 front hub would be more amenable to a 40-spoke standard vintage-style RIM though, with the GL1500 front hub turning out to be far more HOLLOW than I had expected. Not to mention it's SIZE ha-ha. Hard to find a 3.0x18" rim which ISN'T a drop-center type. Well, a VINTAGE rim that is. Sun/Excel rims might work out fine, with a spoke count in multiples of 9 so 36-spoke or 72-spoke, possibly a 54-spoke with groups of 6 crossed together like the Yamaha XS650 Heritage Classic rear hub? I'd prefer such a rim to be dimpled and polished, maybe THEN we'd have the right look despite the SUN/EXCEL rims' more modern cross-sectional profile shape etc. There are some very interesting techniques for a REAR wire-spoke conversion on the GL1500 rear hub as well. The idea comes from a CB900C based CHOPPER built by one "6pkrunner" on the www.CB750C.com 'C-ustom 'C-ommunity. Remembering of course, that the CB900C shares the same entire rear end with the GL1100 - He took the existing Comstar hub (read: ANY hub, though in this instance the Comstar hub was of an ideal size) and spun it down on a lathe, into a cylindrical plug. One might also drill alignment holes at the center of the bolt-up lugs for the Comstar spokes, and do the same with the DRUM hub, from CB750K/CB650 etc, which is hollowed out from side-to-side. The two are then welded together within a beveled edge fillet on each side. One might also create completely new alloy spoke-flanges, but then you'd need to weld 'em each on two sides, for a total of four fillet welds, significantly adding to the expense as well as the final product's mass - then again perhaps the cooling fins of that drum hub add up to quite a lot of weld beads worth of extra mass. But expense & complexity counts a long long way toward project viability.......
I just watched your video. I have a 1985 GL1200 Aspy. I am thinking of doing my forks with progressive springs and the rear airshocks too with progressive. Progressive say I will notice a big difference in how the bike handes. Sincerely Roger H. Wish there were videos of someone doing a fork spring change on a,1985 but I can't find one .
I had a 1985 back in the day! I doubt there will be much difference and Progressive will provide directions. I ended up taking them back off. I did front and back but being 5'8", 32" inseam, it put the bike higher off the ground than I like. I just sold my 1995 GL1500. She had 110,000 miles on her and was still going strong. I've got a 2018 GL1800 I should be picking up any day now. It too seemed to be a little high but I think it's because the seat is wider. I picked up a pair of links I can change out on the rear shock that will lower it. I'll help you with the change anyway I can Roger. Good luck!
Hi my friend, just watched your video on progressive springs replacement on the wing, very good, I’m just wondering, is it best to have the forks fully extended when adding the oil, or compress them, kind regards !
Man did I need to see this! I just picked up a set of Progressive fork springs and rear shocks for my 98 Wing. Great video. Did you rebuild the forks or just replace the springs and oil? Also wondering, Did it raise the front of the bike up at all and how is the ride with the new springs?
The front was raised about 1/2 inch. They are stiffer. I'm not sure I like the harder ride. I'm 5' 8" and about 180 lbs. Maybe if I was heavier they would be great. I tried the rear air shocks too and with no air pressure the bike was raised about an inch. My inseam is 32". It felt like I was climbing on a horse instead of my bike... This wing has 105 thousand miles on her and I've ridden wings since I was 18. Always wanted to try the progressive mods but so far it just doesn't work for me. Since the front forks are stiffer my iPhone wants to just out of its cradle more when hitting bumps on the highway. I rebuilt the forks since I had them opened up. It was pretty easy. I've gone back to the Honda rear suspension and might be going back to the Honda fork springs too. Hope it goes better for you!
+Jeff Tjernagel I know what you mean about “firm”. I installed the rear shocks yesterday, and holy crap the thing rides like a cement truck! I am ok with the added height but my back and “tail” will tell you a different story. I went out last night for a ride, an hour into it I returned home. With no air I climbed on the rear seat and the bike didn’t even notice I was there (I am heavier Lol). I am now debating on installing the front springs. I have 67,000 miles and was hoping it would improve on the ride. I may also go back to the Honda Suspension!
+IFLYBELL I was really disappointed. I've ridden goldwings since my early twenties and I've always heard and read the hype over the progressive springs. I always thought they would be a great upgrade until now... Why have air shocks that have such stiff inner springs you would never need to put air in them? I don't get it... Since the springs are easy to change I'll probably change them installed on the bike and go back to the original springs. Good luck!
do it on the bike, like I am trying to do now. I see the too online for $200.00 but don't understand how it works. Injured my hand trying to compress the one spring with a friend. Why a dipstick if they tell you how much fluid to put in? Makes no sense to me. It's one or the other... not both. :-)
Ah, well - it was pretty cool Festivus decor, in my mind's eye. Gonna have to build one myself! Either way, thanks for the fork rebuild vid. I was a bit intimidated by the ostensible need for the specialty TOOL for fork cap removal and replacement. Now I realize the upgrade to GL1500 forks, for the "Freddie Spencer Replica" thing, isn't so daunting a task after all. It's still my fall-back position though ~ I'm SHOOTING FOR the more heavy-duty 43mm TRAC fork & 316mm rotors from the '96+ ST1100A aka ST1100-ABS-TCS, with or without the 2nd right-hand-side leg for dual-sided TRAC. You've done such a good explanation of rebuilding the GL1500's 41mm TRAC forks, you should be the guy to showcase 'em for all of the NON-'WINGNUT people who'd be interested in using 'em. SEVERAL good uses for a spare set of GL1500 forks, you know. I hate to disparage the STARBUCKS RACER set, but the Classic Superbike scene as a whole, needs real-world practical advice about TRAC anti-dive forks. On the one hand, 'cause they're quickly chucking out all of the period-correct aesthetics and charm, character & flavour of proper '80s HONDA TECH - in pursuit of the "Newer Is Better" ethos/pathos. Throwing out the beautiful vintage front end from their Classic Superbikes and replacing the whole schwack with fugly faux-gold piss-stain tint anodized USD forks and other chachi '90s-Y2K+ Crotch-Rocketry - the steering stem and the swing-arm pivot bolt being the only two bolts one need twist apart, the rear converted to a mono-shock with the net effect of an OREO bike, the air-cooled engine & backbone style gas-tank with the forward half of it's featherbed style double-cradle frame, sandwiched between the book-ends of some Gixxer or Viffer or Ninja or what-not..... It's TERRIBLE - and all you'll hear in reply is "There aren't any TRAC forks in Moto-GP" - Duh, maybe not LATELY. But that's more to do with cornering tactics. Far be it for me if you'd rather "drop the knee" at every intersection eventually wrapping yourself around a pedestrian's knees while doing your best ROSSI impersonation, rather than barrel down the open roads like a CANNONBALL initiating your oscillation-overthruster AND your flux-capacitor at the same time, (1950's in the 8th Dimension? Woah.) Hell yeah, I realize they don't CURRENTLY use any anti-dive forks in Moto-GP. But let's say you want to ride a 400lb-450lb '80s Honda Superbike like IT'S Rossi's old 250, with your ass up in the air and your clip-on bars sticking out of the lower fork yoke, in the MFF ergonomic position ~ that'd be "Monkey Fornicates Football" for the uninitiated~ With one's chest pressed against the gas-tank, arms extended forwards and downwards, feet stretched out behind oneself - you then approach an intersection and decelerate drastically - at which point the bike's weight shifts forward AND - you're suddenly looking straight down at the pavement! Only you're not "loading up the front end to approach the apex with as steep a rake as possible and minimal width, with the loaded fork springs poised to push you back out of the turn, the overall width of the tilted bike at a minimum 'cause the vertical height is squatted low - no you're trying to crane your neck to see a TRAFFIC light, twisting left & right for crosswise approaches, trying not to get kicked over by pedestrians, get clotheslined by the leash of a tall dog.... TRAC forks are ESSENTIAL in such shituations. All well and good to say that modern forks have just "figured it all out" with adjustable dampening etc, but imho the TRAC fork makes a whole lot more sense! All of the work that's been done with standard telescopic forks for modern crotch-rockets, but unless those bikes all still weigh 500lbs it doesn't make sense fitting 'em to a Classic Superbike! Seems like the ST1100A has more in common, and so too the GL1500, with the early '80s Honda four-bangers. IDK, maybe the GL1500's or GL1200's 41mm TRAC fork & 296mm dual-discs ARE good enough for my 985cc "CB900K0 Bol Bomber" - but the 43mm TRAC fork & 316mm discs of the ST1100A are the SUPERLATIVE version of 'em all, barring the $20,000 works-spec RSC/HRC racing version of which. If AHRMA allows a max diameter of 43mm, then this is the way to fill out those specs. Ain't gonna be cheap to flip that 2nd RHS leg around, with a custom-made mirror-image caliper-hanger for the sliding OEM type calipers! Ain't gonna be cheap, NOR easy...... Might not be much left in the FESTIVUS POLE budget, I'm afraid. Gonna have to use a bunch of left-over handlebar tubes, Aluminum of course, from cheapo Chinese eBay clip-on bars. Of which I've modified using chopped-up bicycle bars - the bend renders 'em perfectly adjustable! Which leaves the stock alloy tubes - if I stick 'em together with dowels in the middle that means it's a fold-up Festivus pole. Am guessing somebody already sells a packaged version of this? Would've been a good way to raise $$$'s for the bike.....
om gosh, you bent to the forks agains the vise and work bench.. putting them in the vise and marked them up.. thankfully where you had them in the vise where the marks from the vise wouldn't' effect.. would've done it without the extension maybe
Nice job... so many experts out there over complicating a lot of things and its refreshing to see someone use a common sense approach!! 👍👍😎
Very good information. I just rebuilt my front shocks on my 98 wing. Was a mess...both tubes were rusted/pitted. Your tip on the thread alignment for the fork cap was invaluable. Thanks for the video!
Great video. I am actually going to do mine this winter during the down time here in MN. Thanks for the tips.
Thanks Jeff.
Did this yesterday, on the bike. My god, what a challenge to get the caps back in!
VERY helpful information, thank you! Dunno whether ya'll 'WING-NUTS realize, but the 41mm TRAC fork is highly desirable to the DOHC-4 Honda enthusiasts, CB900F & CB1100F, CB1100R, etc -
Though I'VE also recently figured out that the ''96+ ST1100A aka ST1100-ABS-TCS, has a 43mm TRAC fork - albeit only on the one side, sad to say. But it can still make for one FANTASTIC replica of the NS500/RS500/NSR500 43mm TRAC fork. The 316mm rotors are hella cool too. And ya'll 'WING-NUTS should pay attention as well: that 316mm rotor size corresponds to the GL1500SE rear discs stuck onto the GL1500 front wheel!
I've ALSO been trying to figure out a wire-spoke conversion of that wheel, a "Faux-Leading-Shoe" fake DRUM hub, four-leading-shoe type that is. Kindalike people have been doing with the CBX550F "inboard disc" front brake. Seems like the PC800 front hub would be more amenable to a 40-spoke standard vintage-style RIM though, with the GL1500 front hub turning out to be far more HOLLOW than I had expected. Not to mention it's SIZE ha-ha. Hard to find a 3.0x18" rim which ISN'T a drop-center type. Well, a VINTAGE rim that is. Sun/Excel rims might work out fine, with a spoke count in multiples of 9 so 36-spoke or 72-spoke, possibly a 54-spoke with groups of 6 crossed together like the Yamaha XS650 Heritage Classic rear hub? I'd prefer such a rim to be dimpled and polished, maybe THEN we'd have the right look despite the SUN/EXCEL rims' more modern cross-sectional profile shape etc. There are some very interesting techniques for a REAR wire-spoke conversion on the GL1500 rear hub as well. The idea comes from a CB900C based CHOPPER built by one "6pkrunner" on the www.CB750C.com 'C-ustom 'C-ommunity. Remembering of course, that the CB900C shares the same entire rear end with the GL1100 - He took the existing Comstar hub (read: ANY hub, though in this instance the Comstar hub was of an ideal size) and spun it down on a lathe, into a cylindrical plug. One might also drill alignment holes at the center of the bolt-up lugs for the Comstar spokes, and do the same with the DRUM hub, from CB750K/CB650 etc, which is hollowed out from side-to-side. The two are then welded together within a beveled edge fillet on each side. One might also create completely new alloy spoke-flanges, but then you'd need to weld 'em each on two sides, for a total of four fillet welds, significantly adding to the expense as well as the final product's mass - then again perhaps the cooling fins of that drum hub add up to quite a lot of weld beads worth of extra mass. But expense & complexity counts a long long way toward project viability.......
I just watched your video. I have a 1985 GL1200 Aspy. I am thinking of doing my forks with progressive springs and the rear airshocks too with progressive. Progressive say I will notice a big difference in how the bike handes. Sincerely Roger H. Wish there were videos of someone doing a fork spring change on a,1985 but I can't find one .
I had a 1985 back in the day! I doubt there will be much difference and Progressive will provide directions. I ended up taking them back off. I did front and back but being 5'8", 32" inseam, it put the bike higher off the ground than I like.
I just sold my 1995 GL1500. She had 110,000 miles on her and was still going strong. I've got a 2018 GL1800 I should be picking up any day now. It too seemed to be a little high but I think it's because the seat is wider. I picked up a pair of links I can change out on the rear shock that will lower it.
I'll help you with the change anyway I can Roger. Good luck!
Is the the Progressive 11-1152 spring? And it only sticks out that far? I thought they stuck out about a foot? lol
I am replacing springs on my 78 GL1000 naked wing.I suspect mine will be similar
Hi my friend, just watched your video on progressive springs replacement on the wing, very good, I’m just wondering, is it best to have the forks fully extended when adding the oil, or compress them, kind regards !
It doesn’t matter. Just add the amount called out. Great bikes. I sold mine and picked a 2018 DTC Airbag. Absolutely love it.
Man did I need to see this! I just picked up a set of Progressive fork springs and rear shocks for my 98 Wing. Great video. Did you rebuild the forks or just replace the springs and oil? Also wondering, Did it raise the front of the bike up at all and how is the ride with the new springs?
The front was raised about 1/2 inch. They are stiffer. I'm not sure I like the harder ride. I'm 5' 8" and about 180 lbs. Maybe if I was heavier they would be great.
I tried the rear air shocks too and with no air pressure the bike was raised about an inch. My inseam is 32". It felt like I was climbing on a horse instead of my bike...
This wing has 105 thousand miles on her and I've ridden wings since I was 18. Always wanted to try the progressive mods but so far it just doesn't work for me.
Since the front forks are stiffer my iPhone wants to just out of its cradle more when hitting bumps on the highway.
I rebuilt the forks since I had them opened up. It was pretty easy.
I've gone back to the Honda rear suspension and might be going back to the Honda fork springs too.
Hope it goes better for you!
+Jeff Tjernagel
I know what you mean about “firm”. I installed the rear shocks yesterday, and holy crap the thing rides like a cement truck! I am ok with the added height but my back and “tail” will tell you a different story. I went out last night for a ride, an hour into it I returned home. With no air I climbed on the rear seat and the bike didn’t even notice I was there (I am heavier Lol). I am now debating on installing the front springs. I have 67,000 miles and was hoping it would improve on the ride. I may also go back to the Honda Suspension!
+IFLYBELL I was really disappointed. I've ridden goldwings since my early twenties and I've always heard and read the hype over the progressive springs. I always thought they would be a great upgrade until now... Why have air shocks that have such stiff inner springs you would never need to put air in them? I don't get it... Since the springs are easy to change I'll probably change them installed on the bike and go back to the original springs. Good luck!
do it on the bike, like I am trying to do now. I see the too online for $200.00 but don't understand how it works. Injured my hand trying to compress the one spring with a friend. Why a dipstick if they tell you how much fluid to put in? Makes no sense to me. It's one or the other... not both. :-)
So you just pull out the oem springs and drop in the progressive springs? Why even take the forks out of the bike, or drain the oil?
You could. Fork oil often gets neglected. I had mine out to replace some seals at the same time as preventive maintenance.
@@tjernagel is it just a simple swap for the springs? Or is there more to-do for the progressive upgrade
@@ydeardorff Simple swap of the springs.
Is that a Christmas tree, or an elaborately decorated FESTIVUS pole?
SoyBoySigh It’s a Christmas tree I mount up on the roof at Christmas that has many light combinations.
Ah, well - it was pretty cool Festivus decor, in my mind's eye. Gonna have to build one myself!
Either way, thanks for the fork rebuild vid. I was a bit intimidated by the ostensible need for the specialty TOOL for fork cap removal and replacement. Now I realize the upgrade to GL1500 forks, for the "Freddie Spencer Replica" thing, isn't so daunting a task after all.
It's still my fall-back position though ~ I'm SHOOTING FOR the more heavy-duty 43mm TRAC fork & 316mm rotors from the '96+ ST1100A aka ST1100-ABS-TCS, with or without the 2nd right-hand-side leg for dual-sided TRAC.
You've done such a good explanation of rebuilding the GL1500's 41mm TRAC forks, you should be the guy to showcase 'em for all of the NON-'WINGNUT people who'd be interested in using 'em. SEVERAL good uses for a spare set of GL1500 forks, you know.
I hate to disparage the STARBUCKS RACER set, but the Classic Superbike scene as a whole, needs real-world practical advice about TRAC anti-dive forks. On the one hand, 'cause they're quickly chucking out all of the period-correct aesthetics and charm, character & flavour of proper '80s HONDA TECH - in pursuit of the "Newer Is Better" ethos/pathos. Throwing out the beautiful vintage front end from their Classic Superbikes and replacing the whole schwack with fugly faux-gold piss-stain tint anodized USD forks and other chachi '90s-Y2K+ Crotch-Rocketry - the steering stem and the swing-arm pivot bolt being the only two bolts one need twist apart, the rear converted to a mono-shock with the net effect of an OREO bike, the air-cooled engine & backbone style gas-tank with the forward half of it's featherbed style double-cradle frame, sandwiched between the book-ends of some Gixxer or Viffer or Ninja or what-not.....
It's TERRIBLE - and all you'll hear in reply is "There aren't any TRAC forks in Moto-GP" - Duh, maybe not LATELY. But that's more to do with cornering tactics. Far be it for me if you'd rather "drop the knee" at every intersection eventually wrapping yourself around a pedestrian's knees while doing your best ROSSI impersonation, rather than barrel down the open roads like a CANNONBALL initiating your oscillation-overthruster AND your flux-capacitor at the same time, (1950's in the 8th Dimension? Woah.) Hell yeah, I realize they don't CURRENTLY use any anti-dive forks in Moto-GP. But let's say you want to ride a 400lb-450lb '80s Honda Superbike like IT'S Rossi's old 250, with your ass up in the air and your clip-on bars sticking out of the lower fork yoke, in the MFF ergonomic position ~ that'd be "Monkey Fornicates Football" for the uninitiated~
With one's chest pressed against the gas-tank, arms extended forwards and downwards, feet stretched out behind oneself - you then approach an intersection and decelerate drastically - at which point the bike's weight shifts forward AND - you're suddenly looking straight down at the pavement! Only you're not "loading up the front end to approach the apex with as steep a rake as possible and minimal width, with the loaded fork springs poised to push you back out of the turn, the overall width of the tilted bike at a minimum 'cause the vertical height is squatted low - no you're trying to crane your neck to see a TRAFFIC light, twisting left & right for crosswise approaches, trying not to get kicked over by pedestrians, get clotheslined by the leash of a tall dog....
TRAC forks are ESSENTIAL in such shituations. All well and good to say that modern forks have just "figured it all out" with adjustable dampening etc, but imho the TRAC fork makes a whole lot more sense! All of the work that's been done with standard telescopic forks for modern crotch-rockets, but unless those bikes all still weigh 500lbs it doesn't make sense fitting 'em to a Classic Superbike! Seems like the ST1100A has more in common, and so too the GL1500, with the early '80s Honda four-bangers.
IDK, maybe the GL1500's or GL1200's 41mm TRAC fork & 296mm dual-discs ARE good enough for my 985cc "CB900K0 Bol Bomber" - but the 43mm TRAC fork & 316mm discs of the ST1100A are the SUPERLATIVE version of 'em all, barring the $20,000 works-spec RSC/HRC racing version of which. If AHRMA allows a max diameter of 43mm, then this is the way to fill out those specs. Ain't gonna be cheap to flip that 2nd RHS leg around, with a custom-made mirror-image caliper-hanger for the sliding OEM type calipers! Ain't gonna be cheap, NOR easy......
Might not be much left in the FESTIVUS POLE budget, I'm afraid. Gonna have to use a bunch of left-over handlebar tubes, Aluminum of course, from cheapo Chinese eBay clip-on bars. Of which I've modified using chopped-up bicycle bars - the bend renders 'em perfectly adjustable! Which leaves the stock alloy tubes - if I stick 'em together with dowels in the middle that means it's a fold-up Festivus pole. Am guessing somebody already sells a packaged version of this? Would've been a good way to raise $$$'s for the bike.....
om gosh, you bent to the forks agains the vise and work bench.. putting them in the vise and marked them up.. thankfully where you had them in the vise where the marks from the vise wouldn't' effect.. would've done it without the extension maybe