Make custom PCBs with the Sienci CNC and FlatCAM!

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  • čas přidán 7. 02. 2019
  • I've always wanted to make my own PCBs - and with a CNC machine, a few tool bits and a few pieces of software it's actually a super fast and straightforward process! In this video, I show how I used Eagle and FlatCam to create an isolation-routed circuit board on the Sienci Mill One, complete with a milled-out contour and all holes drilled.
    Components used
    DSP board go.toms3d.org/DSPMini/
    DCDC go.toms3d.org/3ABuck/
    AMP go.toms3d.org/TPA3110board/
    Tools used
    Sienci sienci.com/
    Bits go.toms3d.org/18Endmill/
    Engraver go.toms3d.org
    Brushless spindle go.toms3d.org/BLDC_ER11/
    Makita Router go.toms3d.org /MakitaRouter/
    Collet adapter go.toms3d.org/Colletadapter/
    Software used
    Eagle www.autodesk.de/products/eagl...
    Flatcam flatcam.org/
    Eagle files
    toms3d.org/dspdownload
    Product links are affiliate links - I may earn a commission on qualifying purchases (at no extra cost to you)
    🎥 All my video gear toms3d.org/my-gear
    I use Epidemic Sound, sign up for a 30-day free trial here share.epidemicsound.com/MadeWi...
    🎧 Check out the Meltzone Podcast (with CNC Kitchen)! / @themeltzone
    👐 Enjoying the videos? Support my work on Patreon! / toms3dp

Komentáře • 344

  • @AmerikkkaGuitars
    @AmerikkkaGuitars Před rokem

    Sounds like user error. Learn how to setup your machine. Slop is user error. You shouldn't have issues with a ball screw system. I have 3 belt drives that I don't have issues with because I know how tram and square my machine.

  • @Nation1A1List
    @Nation1A1List Před 5 lety +46

    I'd prefer no music while you are talking but that might only be me?

  • @johnvine5731
    @johnvine5731 Před 3 lety

    Why the music? Can't watch this.

  • @underourrock
    @underourrock Před 5 lety

    In the world of milling tool runout is king. In the world of milling using micro-tool, runout is the queen mother of the king and no one f's with the queen mother. Seriously: Get a cheap runout gauge and measure your runout of the end mill as it is installed in the collet and tightened down. All runouts are additive and subtractive. That means you have runout in the router. You have runout in the collet. You have runout in the tool. None of that matters. All that matters is how those runouts add together additively or subtractively. You want them to cancel out as much as possible. So you load the microtool up into the collet, capture your z height, tighten it down, and measure the tool runout. If it is bad. Loosen up the collet, turn the collet with the tool in it within the tool holder 45 degrees (or 90 degrees) relative to the tool holder and repeat the whole process. If you make the runout worse, try turning the collet in the opposite direction 180 degrees. If you find the sweet spot the collet with the tool, you can then go to turning the tool within the collet. With some rapid trial and error, you can find the spot where the runout gauge wiggles the least and your runout is minimized. By doing this, your microtools will last a lot longer. The other tip for microtools: Cooling / lubrication / chip evacuation. You can literally just hold a shopvac near the cutting process to get the chips out of there. Recutting an already cut chip will add wear and tear to to the bits. New / Sharp Bits work best. If you can add a little lubrication to the mix go for it, but at the very least use a blast of air or a vacuum to keep those chips out of there. With those tips you should be able to get much better results from micro-milling.

  • @ronycohen8455
    @ronycohen8455 Před 2 lety

    Just gonna through it out there; these aren't PCBs, these are MCBs - Milled Circuit Boards (IDK if it is a real term but it is true).

  • @BeeRich33
    @BeeRich33 Před 2 lety +1

    So right about the naming. These people think they're clever, but they're confusing their own market. You can't design confusion any better than that. I use a piece of software called "Sequel". Worst name possible, after the other confusing terms in the database world.

  • @almpazel1486
    @almpazel1486 Před 2 lety

    Did u use water???

  • @balexfox
    @balexfox Před rokem

    I never advise anyone to buy an edge router instead of a normal spindle with a frequency converter. The price is a little more expensive, but the result will surprise you.

  • @MadeWithLayers
    @MadeWithLayers  Před 5 lety +34

    Sorry about the 1080p-only upload again, but CZcams is right now literally taking weeks to process 4K videos.

  • @nimr0d85
    @nimr0d85 Před 5 lety

    In times in which you can order pcbs from Asia or East Europe for so little money I don't see the point of milled pcbs any more. If you have some days time you get a proper pcb with solder mask and silk screen.

  • @DuncsWorkshop
    @DuncsWorkshop Před rokem +7

    I'm an engineer, apprentice served toolmaker and an experienced CNC machinist but I have come never across your method of setting the Z height (minute

  • @Bajicoy
    @Bajicoy Před 5 lety

    I am always impressed by the improvement of quality from your first videos to your most recent ones, nicely done and thanks for for such a helpful guide!

  • @ViciousViper79
    @ViciousViper79 Před 5 lety +9

    I just finnished my first project with a CNC milled PCB. It gets interesting when you do double sided PCBs because the precision you can achieve is great when aligned properly. Also I recommend to use ultrasonic cleaning of the PCBs because little copper chips may short your traces. You will be surprised how many copper chips you will find in your cleaner that potentially could short out your board.

  • @benjamindeiss9840
    @benjamindeiss9840 Před 5 lety +19

    I went through the same learning process using the MPCNC with the same Makita router. Instead of using Flatcam, a Eagle plugin could be used to directly generate the g-code (pcb-gcode).

  • @jeffreyjhouser
    @jeffreyjhouser Před rokem +1

    I recently bought a 3018 CNC router to make my own PCB boards. You brought up some really good pointers that I'll keep in mind as I am working on my projects.

  • @dorianeric
    @dorianeric Před 5 lety

    So fun first hearing what Tom and Stefan are up to on the podcast and then actually seeing the videos

  • @Mitch3D
    @Mitch3D Před 5 lety +1

    I'm glad you are doing detailed CNC videos like this instead of just printer reviews. I'd like you see doing this on a sturdier CNC machine.

  • @tiger12506
    @tiger12506 Před 3 lety

    I went through the same sort of process as this with a cheap CNC3040, ran into the same issues, gave up pretty quick and crawled back to toner transfer (which I got really reliable by dipping the board in etch before attempting transfer). Kudos to you for following through to success! Now I have a K40 laser cutter, and I hope that I never have to go back.

  • @jesj800
    @jesj800 Před 5 lety +3

    Hey Thomas, I've been over all this too. After uncountable failures I can tell you that the key for success is to use quality brand engraving bits! Forget the chinese bits where you pay 10 bucks for 10 of them. Good quality engraving bits costs about 10$ each. The difference on results is another planet. Oh... I guess that autoleveling is mandatory too. My CNC is homemade and looks less stiffer than yours, and still I can achieve isolation lines of 0.1mm wide for 0.05mm of depth. Cheers mate!

  • @VincentGroenewold
    @VincentGroenewold Před 5 lety +2

    This is soooooo awesome! Thank you!! Also mentioning the pitfalls and such makes a huge difference.