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Aliexpress has one of the best returning policies among other online retailers. The policy says:

But what about thr bemchy hull line? Still trying to sort it out on my printer.

I bought a 3d printer diy kit before, it cost $65, pretty nice, it use esp32, I am literally printing with it now, its pretty good

They are neat!

The Back screw on the pencil does not have to be unscrewed to remove the tip, just the front one, and I can recommend swapping that for a thumbscrew. That will make it much easier.

Lets donate to make that better than fusion, free and OURS!

I bought a tap and die set. Now I just print holes with the minimum thread tolerance, harden them with CA glue, and tap them. The plastic (PETG) around the fastener will rip out before the threads give way, even with 60% cubic infill..

I have a Neptune 4 with way to much colling air for the part. I think i can print with a .6 CHT noozle with a 0.15 layer height at a ridiculus speed without too much problem on the overhang

there is no Z limit switch ?

Very nice. I have a laser engraver and I did some PCBs by painting it with permanent marker and laser the tracks away. then acid and it's done! Like what you were trying to do with the resin directly on the PCB. Also works very well and gets very fine results... depending on the laser's resolution. But 90 seconds for a "big" board is faster than the 4 minutes of my highest resolution small board... but anyway, is also fast that order it from China! The best solution, in my case was to "laser" the circuit first to have a reference for the holes, drill the holes, clean the paint and redo the laser without holes in the drawing, to make sure tiny misalignments in the drill press get the copper to the hole, and only then, acid the extra copper away! Also, with the holes already done, it's very easy to alight a two layer design.

the temu 3d printer was printed using a temu 3d printer oh my god they going to fill up the universe

i cannot get anything to stick to the h1h one that i got. I have washed it with soap and water and dried then IPA on it, 99%. I have tried different heat settings and bed settings. I am trying not to use glue sticks on this. I glue the only way. If anyone has any suggestions please reply to this. Thank you.

I'm getting close to pulling the trigger on one of these, mainly because I think I can get better print quality with it compared to more traditional stepper-driven systems? I'm only worried about the beauty of my prints rather than speed - surface finish is everything for my application. What do you think are the chances of the final product meeting my needs? I'm patient and willing to work with Peopoly as needed...

what about ABS?

i want to make a small 3d printer can you help

that color makes me think it's a 3d printed 3dprinter, thank you for the review

It really helps to move the part around, make sure the clip that is grabbing the part has the same or worst electrical conductivity as the paint and starting with a low current

автор: корпус массивный я: ага, ага😅

FL Sun , drunk french edition.😢 Total waste of money 😞💰

How much pigment vs resin (ratio/perecent)... especially for that shade of Bors Bora Blue?

Iv've never used it

thx for the test

You can use multiple walls instead of infill to create a solid part. The internal structures can also add to the effect if diffusion is what you want. Use something to whack your spatula when removing prints.

.. is this your "exit strategy"

This video illustrates how much integrity and objectivity Tom has. Thanks Tom

12:50 강도 결과

Has Thomas got healed from extreme case of the Klipper Toxicity Allergy?

They are good for blind holes

btter than mkb4k

nice video... What Red filament is that?

For non-English speakers, it would be nice if you were to include a picture alongside the inserts when showing the 3D print with the threaded inserts already mounted. It can be difficult to keep track of which insert is which.

After realizing this is more than capable of printing TPU, wonder what improvements can be made. Just for fun anyone got one of these and modelled the axis carriages? I came across a load of free (so zero cost) LM5UU might be LM4UU which look like might be a perfect fit for the axis tubes... so might be interesting to replace the white carriages with something printed out that used alternative bearings so the slop is reduced.

So, how did it compare to the Mk3s? It was mentioned at the start, then forgotten and as an owner of two mk3s, I would really like to know

it says that this printer is "for Household Education & Students". So just calling it the cheapest 3D printer as if it's meant to be in the same category is disingenuous at the very least.

That benchy looked better that my first Ender3 benchy 3 years ago

Hello there Tom, Have you seen QiDi Max-3? I'm looking at that versus the Voron 2.4. What are your thoughts on these printers?

Creative video, thanks :)

Fascinating.

Really interesting video content thanks.

your price points are wildly unrealistic. some of those prices should be doubled and some should be quadrupled

That print looks excellent for 70buck's. A bit of acetone or sand paper smooths all that out, and honestly to print some small car plastic bits, that's exactly what i may need lol. A few upgraded bits for rigidity and better stepper motors and it's all good. Those stepper motors can't handle the voltage given to them

The included PLA is horrible. Take a caliber and measure the width at multimple points and you'll see how bad it is. Put some good quality PLA in and it should print much better.

my solder iron 6$ is fine

The secret is labmetal..spray that on and it should work....

My pinecil heats from 0 degrees to 350 in about 3 seconds flat with a 24v/5a DC barrel power supply that I got for 15$ It's the best soldering iron that I've ever used. Also I found tips for it on aliexpress for $1.30 each that work exactly the same as the $40 set i bought.

I've been expecting hotends to get smaller over time, but in the last 7 years they haven't made much progress in doing that. I think hotends will become more like 3d pend in the future... and by that, I mean super lightweight with higher flow rates. I think that might be what helps them print faster in the future. With a better controlled heating element, there would no need for a large heat block or large heat sink/fans... so the entire assembly could be made much lighter and could move much faster. It would also decrease vibrations and ghosting (from the frame flexing and vibrations/frequency), which could also lead to lighter 3d printers that won't need to be built as heavy or as durable (and if the frames are still built as solid it would probably increase quality).

My 2014 Chevy Sonic has like a tray on the dash where I put change, but the coins fall out every time I make a sudden stop or turn so I 3D scanned the tray and designed a new one with higher walls that curved in so no change falls out. I've been using it for a year now and it works great. I made a video on my build too.

You should be able to do this with marlin Gcode and a SD card. The code in marlin has a g code to load a program from a SD card and start printing it. With some simple edits to the end of your Gcode inside your slicer you should be able to handle this with just a base printer

Ender 3 is about the same price

This is the 3d printer you get from a Kinder egg.