Homemade custom PCB guide using free KiCAD software
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- čas přidán 8. 07. 2024
- The BIQU BX needed two things to let it sit idle with Octoprint running: a screen saver and quiet fans. In this video, I manufacture a custom PCB to implement a quiet fan switch circuit by Chuck from Filament Friday.
The guide uses a cheap CNC router and free software. My methods are a little unconventional at times but the end result is just what I wanted.
Thanks to CHEP for allowing me to feature his most effective circuit design. It has made a great difference to the way I can use this printer.
0:00 Introduction
0:44 BIQU BX recap
My BIQU BX video: • BIQU BX - Octoprint co...
2:55 CHEP’s temperature switching fan circuit
CHEP’s original video on this circuit: • DIY Temperature Contro...
3:43 Circuit simulation with Everycircuit app
Everycircuit app for simulation: everycircuit.com/app
6:11 Schematic design in KiCAD
KiCAD: www.kicad.org
9:07 PCB design in KiCAD
12:54 Toolpath creation in Carbide Create
Carbide Create: carbide3d.com/carbidecreate/
15:30 Cutting the PCB
Genmitsu 3018 Pro CNC router video: • CNC router for $200 - ...
16:35 Post processing of PCB
17:16 PCB assembly and soldering
17:38 3D printing a mount for the PCB
18:51 Testing the finished circuit
19:34 Conclusion
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As a retired professor of Electronics and Computer Engineering Technology, I really appreciate your clear concise demos. I taught PCB design and fabrication for many years and the current tools that you used and provided a link to are a great improvement from where I started.
The first time I tried Eagle CAD back in the day I was completely lost. This time things were familiar enough that I could just use the KiCAD help doc to get there.
If you are interested in PCB Milling, you might also like what I did: czcams.com/video/R1L0cQV8muw/video.htmlsi=snKq0WRMKE6QE0HT
Now I want a mini CNC machine that I'll never use for anything useful. Just like the 3D printer I got that has only been used to print upgrades for itself. But I still want it.
I don't exactly use mine for anything useful, but it can create some beautiful hardwood reliefs if you use it properly.
Hopefully a project comes up that can utilise it soon.
Machines like that have a tendency to multiply like rabbits. 3d printer leads to a CNC that leads to a laser engraver that leads to a Resin 3d printer that leads to....A bigger CNC and ...
@@TeachingTech Do a "Retro" 3dprinter build to show people how hard it was at the beginning of it all 16 years ago to make a truly scratch build. Show people how easy they got it nowadays! And maybe do a cost comparison as well. Even if you just did a DIY design and build of a control board based(upgrade I would hope) of a RAMPS 1.4? Also would be a good way to see how to do a double side PCB on that CNC.
You sound just like me. you should see all the adafruit stuff i have that i only use 2 of them. the rest just looked like they could do cool stuff with LEDs on you tube. The mini metro just got here yesterday. And as i was readfing the coments on this video i was already serching aliexpress for cheap cnc. Its a disese we have. lol
So excited to see a CNC video. Really looking forward to seeing another LowRider CNC again; hopefully in the near future.
Nice, I’ve been building an MPCNC primo with the idea that I could use it for occasional pcb milling in addition to normal router tasks. Great to have a guide to the workflow.
Great video! I migrated from Eagle to KiCAD and never looked back. I use FlatCAM to modify my gerber files and create G-code. If you haven't tried it I highly recommend it. Also the GRBL controllers on these mills, are able to use pin A5 to zero the z-axis with electrical contact. I also use an A5 pin probe setup to map my pcb board, just like an ABL system. It looks like you're using Candle or UGS as your parser and they both have the mapping capability. Lastly I also apply a UV curing liquid solder mask if I have to do some fine soldering like SMDs, especially when I'm using a ground plane like you have. Wegstr has great videos about it. Cheers
Just wow!
Mate! Such extremely well made step by step videos make electronics and pcb making available to dumbos like me! Just wow!
Thank you very much, sir!
I found flooding some thread cutting oil (or really any tool oil) on the board before cutting works really well and makes much cleaner paths even at 0.15mm clearance. Also keeps the dust down.
Oh and the new Kicad you don't have to export a netlist anymore, just run the annotate and assign footprints tool and you can import the schematic in pcbnew now.
Thanks for the tips. My first ever project in KiCAD so no doubt a lot of improvements for me to make.
For something simple, you can use Kicad PCB to export a step file.
Import the step file into fusion 360 or freecad, then save as a stl file. Print using your favorite filament, then insert the parts into the plastic board and solder together.
My board had about 20 components (leds, resistors, diodes, connectors) and since the holes were already present, it went together quickly. I was originally going to build on perfboard, but I was using a db-9 connector which doesn't have standard 0.1" spacing.
Great video, learned a lot.
I also recently started milling my own PCBs. I built myself a Cyclone CNC for that. I am using my Creality Mainboard which I had left from my Ender 3 Pro (replaced it with an Skr mini e3 v1. 2) running grbl and using bCNC as gcode sender.
Today I added alligator clips as z probe - connecting one lead to the drill bit and the other to PCB - and then running ABL. This really helps to improve the results.
It was really fun to make this project, from sourcing and 3d printing the parts, assembling it, an now using it :)
I am using EAGLE to create Gerber and drill files and FlatCAM to generate the gcode. But I will definitely also try out KiCAD and Carbide Create instead.
Great video. I have done basic boards in the past with KiCad and home built cnc router (lots of 3d prints combined with metal rails and sprockets etc). I can't recall the exact software I used for the gcode generation but what it did is set a whole lot of probing points in the code. When driven with LinuxCNC (EMC2) it would probe the board (probe wire connected to v cutter and ground wire to copper of PCB. This would record the Z heights of the copper surface and manipulate the cutting depths to suit any distortion in the board. This means that you can set the cut depth to just deeper than the copper and know that the copper will be just cut and not making large allowances to cover distortions. This process means that much finer tracks and clearances can be used in KiCad and much more detailed boards can be cut. This worked really well with only some teething problems but I have not used for a couple of years as most of my projects are mechanical in nature. Keep up the good work, your info is well presented and covers a great range of interesting stuff.
Great video, I haven't made PCBs for years and they used to be with a pen and acid. It almost wants me to start circuit board design again but I have too many other projects I need to complete. Thanks for the video.
Thanks for this video, it has prompted me to buy a 3018 CNC router for PCB manufacture. Up until now I have been using vero board in my load cell kits but time consuming to make due to wire straps and manual drilling of breaks. Now I have a steep learning curve ahead of me but feel its worth it.
I learned way more than just how to make a PCB in this video.
Great video. I'm in the process of a major rebuild to expand and stiffen my secondhand 3018 - the simpler type made from all aluminium extrusions. I'll probably use it for lots of small things but PCB manufacture is high on the list, and after decades of UV lamps and ferric chloride I'm looking forward to that. I've tried using Candle to run gcode, and it's quite nice because it can generate and work with height maps. I've been using Eagle but this inspired me to download KiCad. Thanks!
Excellent video Michael. Look forward to more videos on higher quality cnc mahines and upgrades to the inexpensive ones for making pcbs.
Thanks so much . Literally perfect timing as I had just assembled my CNC .
This helped me through the software , going from KiCAD - CarbideCreate - to the GRBL on the CNC software .
Nice and easy to follow too ... Cheers Buddy :)
I haven't done heaps of milled PCBs but I have found flatcam & bCNC to be pretty useful. bCNC has an autolevel function. If you make the PCB and your milling bit close a homing switch or z probe circuit. I just used an alligator clip to attach to the milling bit and taped the other wire down to the PCB. always a good idea to test the taped connection is good by closing the circuit with the alligator clip to the PCB before running the autolevel operation. Combine all that with a 0.3mm 30° v bit I got pretty acceptable level of accuracy without having all the broken bits to go along with it.
that's great. Top content. Thanks so much for making it so clear and concise. Really the absolute best content on CZcams.
Thank you for the tip regarding Every Circuit. I've been looking for something like this for a while.
You are not a Expert to disign PCB's but you got your result that you wanted. Good Job.
Wow, gone are the days when I'd use adhesive pads and tracks to layout a PCB on a blank board and throw it into warm ferric chloride to etch it. Now I want a small CNC to add to my ever-growing tool collection!
It's interesting that Michael opted to drill the holes in his PCB "manually", because I bought one of these 3018 machines *specifically* to drill my home-etched PCBs' holes!
I have a load of equipment for etching PCBs using pre-sensitised laminates, a UV lamp, designs laser printed onto transparencies, ferric chloride, etc.
I personally much prefer it to the isolation milling technique shown here, because my designs tend to be quite a bit more complicated, primarily using SMD parts, and I can get much greater track density with my equipment than I've ever seen from isolation-milled boards (though it might be possible with sufficient skill and experience, I guess).
I totally understand why a lot of people wouldn't want to deal with the chemicals, though :)
I'm not aware of any of the ones I use being fume hazards or anything, but it's still messy and they need proper disposal - though I can just take stuff to the household recycling centre 5 minutes down the road.
(Yes, Chinese PCB fabs are fast and cheap, but etching a board in 1 hour is still faster than even the expensive courier shipping!)
However drilling even a dozen holes takes me ages and the accuracy is horrible! Some of that will be because I use a Dremel in a Dremel Workstation (drill press kinda thing) and the Dremel has a bit of run-out, but I think most of it is just that it's really hard to manually align it!
So I bought a SainSmart 3018-MX3 with the aim of using it to drill the holes and mill the outline, in case I wanted something more than a simple rectangle :)
Life's been a mess lately so I've not been able to test it out yet, but I like having a CNC mill at my disposal, at least!
(And no, I wouldn't recommend the 3018-MX3. Get SainSmart's 3018-PROver or their regular 3018 instead. SainSmart themselves have been great, with a good assembly and user manual, and only one snag during assembly, where a smooth rod was very slightly too wide to fit inside the 608-style bearing it was supposed to sit in, but a bit of filing it down sorted that out, and there were no burrs on any of the cut aluminium parts or anything. But the MX3 uses a weird control board that's designed to be used with Mach3 - or DrufelCNC. DrufelCNC seems capable enough, but I think I'd prefer to use a grbl-powered board, for the flexibility and larger community... It also uses non-silent stepper drivers that can't be replaced, though that's less of an issue than with a 3D printer! I'll probably replace my machine's control board at some point.)
I wonder if for someone that have tools for etching it is still not way to go. There are videos for i.e. modified 3d printer that swaps hot end for that special pen, draw PCB lines on board for etching. No broken bits, dust, less force applied that can bend or move the board.
My guess that for a small and simple piece like this one, router might be a faster option but for bigger board my 5 cents go to etching. So maybe for somebody like me who is not interested in some higher level of PCBs the best option would be 3d printer / router like machine where you can use working end either for pen to draw scheme and then to minidrill to make precise holes.
Very nice solution and a great example of how you can design your own PCB's. I personally would have took the lazy solution and soldered up a thermistor, resistor and mosfet with a bit of heat-shrink around it. But your solution is far cleaner, I love it :)
Now I'm considering getting a cheap CNC too...
Thanks for sharing and keep up your great work!
Look into BCNC for your G-Code sender (it's 100% opensource and free to use with no limits). Also look into adding a probe wire, PIN9 on the Arduino if I recall (verify this yourself of course). Having a probe pin allows you to alligator clip that wire to the PCB and clamp a ground wire to the tool in the spindle. BCNC has built in routines for creating a height map as well as just setting zero (exactly the same as a 3D printer). I find these tools invaluable for making PCBs because it allows a completely tuned depth of cut that never over or under cuts. This also allows you to make nice thin traces when you need to. As you advance more you will want these features, hell I wanted them right away.
For hole drilling I actually use burr style roughing endmills, I only have a few sizes because you don't need a wide variety of them for 99% of all PCBs. The advantage over a drill is material removal. You may notice that a drill bit pulls material up to fast on PCBs and actually makes a tiny "mole hill" protuberance around the hole, I find this to be unacceptable in many cases. The burr style roughing end mill does not do this. I completely prefer to let the machine drill the holes and these endmills are tougher than drills as well, I've never broken one. I also prefer CopperCAM for g-code generation, it's pretty cheap though (less than $100 USd, there is a limited free version as well), but it has some very nice tools specifically for milling PCBs and takes gerber files directly. I find that with the cheaper engraving bits that cutting to deep wears them out VERY fast, so I never cut any deeper than I have to. Often times I will even cut in 2 passes when doing very fine pads and traces because the finished product looks better and has hardly any copper burrs pulled up. All you have to do is find the copper weight on the board and google the thickness of that specific weight, cut perhaps 0.02 - 0.03 deeper and it works like a charm.
There's my thoughts, do what you will with what I have learned.
Thanks for this, very informative.
It's way too easy to accidentally put a bend in your PCB clamping from the sides, with parts so fine even a little bowing makes a visible difference. You can save a lot of headache by using double-sided tape to affix the PCB blank across the surface of a known flat object, then clamp both to the mill's table.
Great video! I first found your channel while considering the CNC you've reviewed/featured here. I've been subscribed ever since even through I don't own a 3D printer.
Thanks for watching. On my big CNC in the garage I simply tape down the edges. So little movement from the shallow cuts it works very well.
I'm surprised you didn't mention dust mitigation, most PCBs are made out of reinforced fiberglass, which means milling and cutting them gives off very nasty fiberglass dust. A wet cut in some lubricant is a good enough solution for a hobby machine if you've got an enclosure.
Thanks, great video
Muy bueno, muchas gracias !!
This helped me a lot, thanks!
Very excited for the overhaul! I think a conductive probe would be very useful for machining pcbs :)
The V-bit IS the conductive probe. Connect it to the A5 pin of the controller and probe before you mill
Thank You
Since Carbide Create locked Gcode behind a paywall, are there other programs we could use to get the gcode for our boards?
Appreciate the tip on Carbide Create - looks an awful lot easier to use than FlatCAM, and possibly more flexible as well for non-PCB stuff. Definitely curious about the upcoming videos from yourself and CHEP on the subject.
Regarding silk screening, I've printed a bracket to take a standard 4"x6" FR4 blank over a piece of 6mm MDF for that purpose. I cut the tracks with a V-bit (60° since the 30° kept breaking the tips off - super impressed at your handling of a 20° bit!) then use a 0.8mm chip-breaker to do the holes and edge cuts. Since FlatCAM doesn't generate the edge cuts the whole way by default (by design), this means I can flip the PCB in the bracket and re-align with the corner cut. Then switch back to the V-bit and engrave the "silk screen" on top. Clip the last little 2mm tabs holding it in place with side cutters to free the board.
Hi Jon, great tips, thank you. Don't worry, I've taken the tip off a few 20 degree vee bits in my time.
From my experience with this mill and doing PCBs the fun don't last long. This mill is just not sturdy enough. The first 10 PCBs went well, after that tolerances added, which rendered the PCBs unusable. I am back on etching, this works reliable. But if you go for milled PCBs do the drilling using your CNC as well. Much less hassle. Right now I am thinking about letting the mill do the drilling, and etch the PCBs after it.
Those CNC kits are only as good as the builder.
@@cda32 Extruded aluminum doesn't haven't nearly the rigidity of cast iron and that has nothing to do with the builder.
@@dcurry7287 And this matters for taking off a 60 micron layer of copper?
@@cda32 You can't be so good at turning an allen wrench that you can make unreinforced plastic more rigid. No one is.
The finer the work is, the more precise you have to be. Especially with a V bit cutter where depth of cut *is* cutter size. I think making PCBs at a reasonable size really pushes a 3040, even if it was put together by a NASA engineer managing a Formula1 pit crew.
I can verify that this machine is not something anyone should purchase. I bought one shortly after his review. It came with a stripped out anti backlash nut. I contacted the company, and they sent me a replacement very quickly. The company, at least from my experience has pretty great customer service.
I put it together, the first few jobs went fairly well considering my lack of experience. On my 4th use of the machine, the same part that came broken, broke again. I packed the machine up and sent it back, luckily my return window hadnt closed.
It had nothing to do with my ability to put the machine together, and everything to do with substandard parts. It also probably had a little to do with my inexperience and maybe pushing the machine a little too hard, but I feel very comfortable saying that it would have eventually broken regardless of my experience.
Was there probably a bad batch of anti backlash nuts out there? Yeah, probably, but the company should have better quality control and even the best components on the machine are substandard.
Marlin has built in power supply control. Most boards if plugged into usb only will power up the chip, but not the steppers, fans, and such. Since you have a raspberry pi already on the printer you could power it straight from incoming supply and switch the motherboard supply using an open gpio from the motherboard. I have a mks smezi I do this with. Raspberry pi is powered straight from supply and relay to MB power is switched by gpio 17 broken out of the lcd connector. I had a pcb etched through JCB PCB for this.
This is all true, except I don't have access to the firmware source to recompile. Hopefully that changes in future.
I have made PCBs in the past using a program on my phone called PCBDroid. Great little app. I also use photo resist to get the circuit to the board then etched using acid.... its really not as hard as people make it out to be.
I did that for a boards boards but I prefer how clean at cut home PCB is.
Z probing electrically can help with some of those track width work arounds. Blue tape superglue method to some MDF will give you a lot better height differentials.
I modified my ender 3 pro to work as PCB mill, and it works amazing. within 5 mins I can switch it back to regular 3D printer again..
This video made me think about an IDEX machine, with a 3D printing head on one and CNC motor for the other. Print then machine in one go!
Thanks, been needing this. and second view
Thanks. I have a MySweety 3018 pro and want to do this but Eagle was too complicated. Will try out your method.
Excellent
very cool video
Here is new subscriber, this is my new hobby.
How funny you're the opposite of me. I have no propper clue what im doing while coding, but hardware i can do with my eyes closed :P Great vid been looking for some more info for diy pcb milling.
Great video! I'm kind of confused by the need to enlarge the pads in KiCad to accommodate cut width, though. I thought one could tell the program that generates the G-Code the width of the cut the drill bit creates, so it can accommodate and will not cut directly at the edge of the pad, but offset the drill bit from the edge, so the cutline is at the intended pad location? At 15:20 it looks like the Toolpath is not doing that, but maybe I'm reading that wrong.
Good demo for a simple PCB, but for such simple circuit honestly think prefboard does the trick just fine and is significantly faster. Would you try with SMD components and a more complex layout? Maybe even 2 sided? Thanks for the great 3d printing videos!
You might want to take a look at LT Spice for simulations as well.
There is also Falstad online, which is free.
yea idk why I used that no name paid software
And Spectrum Software Micro-Cap 12, that has the full professional unrestricted version for free now. The only drawback is that it will not be updated any longer, because the developer and owner of the software has gone in retirement last year.
Fine work Michael! Did you consider potting the PCB in epoxy to prevent shorts and keep the raw copper traces from being exposed to the elements? I bet a cheap two-part epoxy would do a really nice job, and you could cover the entire underside of the board in a few minutes. Perhaps worth considering for a future video?
omg I learned a lot
One criticism and two tips, but first - great, clear video and instructions good job.
Criticism: There are more than just Windoze and Mac users so a product like Carbide which calls itself cross platform when ONLY Mac and Windoze versions are available is just utter nonsense. What about Linux, what about Android, what about Raspberry Pi? A TRUE cross platform player would at least ALSO have TWO of the latter three covered if not all three. SAD😢😢
TIPS: When producing a DIY board so professionally looking it seems a shame to not finish it off professionally by properly tinning the board using tinning solution. Also, it is quite easy to produce a dot mask from KiCAD or.other software. Set the Z axis zero to be the height of the copper surface, coat the board both sides (after tinning using tinning solution) with solder mask green, blue or whatever then when dry, re cut the pad positions to surface copper zero using a small diameter four flute downward routing bit. Then finally drill. The improvement in final look and finish will be immense with only the text layer normally produced with silk screen missing.
When running the CNC cutting, using a glass base board and double sided tape to stick down the board will avoid much if not ALL board flex and height variations providing a much cleaner, more accurate cut.
Suggestions for a good Linux alternative to Carbide would be useful - FreeCAD?
I have learned so much from you. I do have a suggestion though, be being on the receiving end of the learning. It only has to do with the coding marline portion. 1 more compliment though. Your are very thorough in your documentation. I really don't know how you make the videos and work on the printers at the same time. I salute you. Back to my suggestion. If for example you just made a smalle 15 line copy past of the exact lines that you changed in marlin would be very helpful. Because of you I learned how to use the CTR + F to find things in marlin and this would have accelerated a lot of my learning curve. Thank you again for all of your videos.
ALSO if your need another video to make. I actually bought the S42bs from big tree tech for me Creality CR10 S5 and the x axis works great but the PID tune on the HUGE Y axis overshoots really really bad. I have messed around with trying to even make a single adjustment from BTT and have made not ground at all. Well maybe a little. I finally got my STlink V2 throught the stlink software to communicate and pull see whats on the S42b but still have not got the com port to show up.
Thanks again.
I’m looking at getting either a laser cutter or a cnc machine what do you think I should get
If you have a couple of days, it's often cheaper and easier to have boards made in China... And the end-result is better since they have access to proper industrial equipment rather than just a cnc mill.
You can probably order this board from ali as well. Or use the included functionality in Marlin. Or order the parts you want from a 3D printing shop. But where's the fun in all that?
You know there are thermal switches such as KSD9700 that make simple fan controllers? If there's room, one of those in series with the fan, placed near the hot part of the hotend does the job simply.
Very nice, detailed and impressive. I am interested in using laser cutting instead of the CNC drilling method. This means that instead of G-Code, I need an SVG file that laser CNCs can use to trace their cuts, some deep and some shallow for the isolation borders. Any recommendations?
Great video!
could you post the MOSFET number and Thermistor number. i see there are many 100K thermistors but want to know the proper specs for both MOSFET and thermistor.
keep up the outstanding work!
For v6.0.0, the Netlist creation sequence described in the video at 8:50 doesn't work...
But to get effectively the same you can select Tools > Update PCV from Schematic... (or press F8)
yout don't need the extra step of exporting the netlist. Just press the button to the right next to the import netlist button in PCB-editor
Thank you. I was going off their help docs and that's what it suggested.
Hello, you did really great job for hobbyists. I designed a pcb on Kicad and print it as a pdf file,then I checked the 1x10 pin header size but it is different in size,can you help me?
Many people have serius issues about BL touch abl on skr v2.0 and new marlin firmwares. make a video for it please
won't this interfere with Firmware/GCode control of fan? In Percents?
HDMI cable very interestig and i like it! Where is HDMI card module? I searched but i cant found it.
Hi! Did you export a basic G Code from Carbide ?
Have you tried Falstad is looks very similar to that circuit simulator but free.
Why not just use the option in marlin to turn the fan on at a certain temp?
can use easyEDA for design schematic & PCB
Where did you buy your JST connector box?
I find that pcb2gcode a far more powerful and useful tool for this, combined with bCNC you can have the mill do everything, mill tracks, drill holes, cut. And as it's able to mill you can just use a small endmill (0.8mm) for making holes of any size. Another tip is if you run the cheap endmill backwards and touch it with a hacksaw blade you can refine the tip so that you can do extremely fine trace widths. Just made a board using a part in a SSOP28 package using this method.
The free version of Carbide Create now does not allow saving G-code, does anybody know of any alternative free software to do the toopath?
Hi, I have just downloaded the Carbide Create version 7 have you got any ideas which courses that I should watch or read I would appreciate some feedback and advice. Many Thanks. David Grey
Opp's nearly forgot to click "Like" :thumbsup:
I'm not an electrician but did someone try use cheap 24v programmable thermostat (5-10$ small pcb, there are infinitely many to choose from, with and without PWM) and use printer 100k temp probe instead 10k which they usually use for max 110 °C? Put board out of print head and use another 4 extra cables. Because this way
it will take an enormous amount of time. I definitely don't want to do anything like that, but a great example of what can still be improved and way how to do it....
I originally wanted to do use a simple thermal switch. Plenty that would turn on at 50 degrees but they were all rated well under PLA temps.
Hi, where do you buy electronic components? And pcb boards?
In Australia we have an electronics store chain called Jaycar: www.jaycar.com.au
Everycircuit is good, not great, but good.
Error, seem import dxf has problem, I change to mm from kicad and carbide but when import finish, on carbide pcb scale too big, Kicad 4.0.5, Carbide Build: 530 Released: 6-1-2021
I wonder if you could have piggy backed of the 3d printers own thermistor, rather than using a separate one?
Interesting idea, although I'm not it would work.
I know the purpose of this video is to showcase the creation of a pcb, but going back to the purpose you are creating this for. On my Ender 3 with Marlin 2.0 (SKR 1.3 board) I was able to change the firmware to where the hotend fan doesn't come on until it reaches 50c at the hotend. Is this not possible on the BIQU BX?
The SKR V1.4/V1.4 has an extra MOSFET for a second hot end that we can re-purpose to control the heat sink as you have. The standard Creality board (like in CHEP's original video), the SKR mini E3 drop ins only have a fan port with constant 24V. This board actually has two extra MOSFETs for fans like the SKR V1.3/4, but the HDMI connector to the hot end means I can't use them. You are correct, a firmwre based solution would be far easier but it was not available in this case.
That's makes sense, I didn't think about the hdmi cable. This is a bit concerning as I'm a backer for the BX and was hoping to set up the firmware similar to what I have for my Ender 3 with the skr 1.3 board. Thank you for your reply Michael.
How do I solve this problem? Symbol L1 pad ~ Not found in footprint Custom Components:T-68-6 CT.
In you opinion do you think milling PCB at home is still worth the cost with all of the "discounted" PCB manufactures throwing out cheap prices?
You'd have to order a LOT of PCBs to equal the money saved by making them yourself, not even counting time. The biggest gain of doing them yourself is when you need them in a day, instead of weeks shipped from China. If you already own a CNC for other things and don't mind breathing fiberglass dust (you should tho), there's nothing as cool as holding a PCB you just watched get made.
No, its not.
If you want a really deep SPICE-compatibele analog / digital circuitsimulator with schematic editor, you can take a look at Spectrum Software Micro-Cap 12. This was a very expensive piece of software until a year ago. The main developer of this great piece of software decided to retire and gave the software away for free. Anyone that's interested can download it at: www.spectrum-soft.com/index.shtm
As said - The software is completely free, and has a lot of models in it. It's in no way limited, because it is the full professional version. Of course it will be no longer updated, but it will absolutely be very useful for at least several years.
to export toolpath the gcode you need the pro software
Drill först Mill then om the same serup
Cannot find any email to contact you re 3D Printer reviews. No joke, Bryan Vines BV3D and Chris Taylor, Nerys, Joe Larson The 3D Printing Professor have machines on route now.
I think using the marlin firmware with auto bed leveling should be a better approach with pcb milling. There are a lot of problems with such a simple approach and results will be hit or miss.
My rebuild of this machine will be running Marlin so this would be a possibility. My initial concern is that the probing grid would need to be different for each workpiece and that requires recompilation of Marlin.
Unfortunately Carbide create wont let you export gcode unless you pay for full version now :( Anyone have some alternatives?
I think this could be done even more neatly with a comparator, im no electrician tho
13:51 - "Ixport"
I thonk you should check the temperatur of the MOSFET
I have a 10K resistor on the gate and the 24V fan draws very little current.
210 / 5 000
Översättningsresultat
Översättningsresultat
Can't fix this in KiCad 7.0?? Don't know what I'm doing wrong.. Can't get it to fill the gnd pattern..Also when I import into Carbide Create wrong size..?? Would it be good with a new Video with KiCad 7.0???
Check FlatCAM. It is far from perfect, but real-free, and still better than your current workflow.
That’s a bit different to sketching everything on paper, rubbing etch resist transfers on to the copper board, then etching it in hydrochloric acid and rinsing :) I was very lucky with understanding parents, letting me do that in the kitchen!
Please design your CHEP cube, call it TTCHEP
For some reason I blew at my screen at 16:25 to blow the dust away xS
If only they used PWM for all fans then it could all be controlled by marlin itself automatically.
If I had access to the firmware source I could have treated the mainboard fans as electronics fan and had them controlled automatically. I believe the hot end fan is currently hard wired to constant 24V through the HDMI connector so no such luck there.
Carbide Create does not longer let you export the gcode, so this this program (and thus the last part of the video) is not longer usable!!!
I have no idea if there is an alternative (maybe FlatCAM?). And that really sucks, because I was just wanting to start using a CNC router for creating PCB's. Yes - You can buy a year subscription for $120 a year, or a Perpetual License for $360, but if you do not use that program often (maybe once or twice a month, as most hobby PCB designers do) it's a VERY high price to pay.
So - Unless this video is remade with another free alternative (highly preferable an off-line, because on-line stuff can change at any moment, just like what happened to Carbide Create), I am afraid this video is not longer usable. A shame, because a lot of people would like to make their own PCB's a bit environment-friendly without chemicals and photo-sensitive copper prints.
You really should not handle fibre glass dust without PPE
17:43 no you dont, thats not small as possiple, sry to say. but this could be as small as the potentiometer you ve used :D
mi programa guarda en c2d, yo necesito que salve como .nc igual que en el video, o sea, me fumé el tutorial por nada. No funciona.
The plugs are female, the sockets are male as the sockets have the male pins!
You don't have exposed pins on cables to prevent accidental shorts if the other end of the cable is live.
That's true, thanks for pointing out.