Kayak Trolling Motor - With Pulse Width Modulator
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- čas přidán 14. 07. 2020
- UPDATE! DO NOT BUY A PWM UNLESS YOU LOOK AT THIS VIDEO - • Why Your PWM For Kayak...
I take out the kayak trolling motor for a benchmark trip using the PWM trolling motor controller. I discovered a few advantages to the infinite speed control the PWM controller provides. I also wanted to see how my kayak trolling motor battery would last and assess the DIY kayak trolling motor mount I put in the middle of the fishing kayak to confirm I had the kayak trolling motor setup properly.
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Sounds like a good investment. Thanks for the video. Be safe
Useful information. Thank you for sharing your findings and tips.
My pleasure!
Pretty redfish!
I still run my cheap , paddle powered kayak. Maybe someday I upgrade to better kayak. Great info about Trolling motor n modulator... set the hook brother
What would make for a good video is a comparison of using PWM vs not using it so we can see how much better it is to use pwm
I think I address that issue here - czcams.com/video/zuOqr7pvmYI/video.html
The wider range of speed variation alone would be with the cost in my book 👍
The extra battery life is going to be tough to measure accurately because of all the factors like wind, water depth/current and many others.
Totally agree
Love your videos! My son goes to UNCW, so I'm down there a lot. But I digress. I have the same motor, but was wondering what thrust yours has? Thanks, in advance!
It has 36 lbs. Hope the fishing is better this year. Last year was really slow.
I had a kayak like your old one, I mounted my motor all the way back. My old set up worked pretty smooth but your PWM would probably save the battery for emergency.
Grea t overview on the Pulse Width Modulator. Nice redfish - excellent video - Can you recommend your best hacks for the kayak - what are you using to secure the phone? Great breakdown - thanks
Sure - here is an entire playlist on the phone issue. czcams.com/play/PL8egn41J7Go9doibtteBpclCJsatyIOuT.html
And here is the playlist of hacks - czcams.com/play/PL8egn41J7Go_7SXTlO-yHWhYcN6tSCWoc.html
Kayak Hacks Fishing Extremely helpful thanks again
Can you show how you made your box in the next video? There are a few videos out there that include them. However, I can't seem to find one that shows how to cut the holes and attatch the knob and rocker panel.
Sure - here it is - czcams.com/video/aUWC-4etAg4/video.html
I have always been a fan of PWM's. I would recommend just getting the factory version of the motor which has the PWN already matched to the motor. It all fits into the motor housing thus allows for better housekeeping on a boat or kayak. There is already shortage of room on a kayak, I don't need any extra things to fit into minimal spaces. It is just another thing to lose if the kayak tips, not if but when. I also prefer the salt-water version of the motor because of the better materials used. It is all cost savings in the end. If you want to do a comparison between both non PWN and PWN motors, just use a amp/watt meter. The accessory will allow you to dial in the perfect speed/range combination. They are not expensive and will soon pay for itself by extending your battery life.
I agree! I wish this saltwater rated, inexpensive motor had the PWM built in.
i watched another video on the wiring of the PWM and the fellow did as yourself and simply wired it between the motor and battery . He found everything to work properly except the speed control switch inside the head assembly which became very hot !!! He bypassed the switch and wired it directly to the wires coming from the motor and found nothing getting hot .... any thoughts ?
Anything that becomes very hot can mean that the unit is not rated for the "current being drawn from that unit". Either that or there's something wrong with the unit itself as it can't produce enough power that the motor is drawing.. Make sure that wires matches what the motor is rated for.
I need to check that - thanks!
The best part about putting it inline between the battery and the factory wires is that with Anderson connectors you can easily bypass the PWM if and when that modulator gives out on the water
@@CaliforniaOutdoorsman Exactly!
Which pwm do you prefer? There are so many to choose from I don't know where to start.
There were not many choices. So, I just went with this one - amzn.to/3hQrFQn
@@KayakhacksFishing thank you kindly for the direction. PWMs are new to me and I simply didn't know where to start other than to ask someone who already has.
Q #1What brand of trolling motor are you using?
Q #2 before you installed the P M when you would twist your tiller handle to select different speeds weather increase or decrease could you select a speed between 0-10 10-20 20-30 30-40 and so on or does your speed adjustment only land on 10 20 30 40 and so on
Here is a link to the motor - amzn.to/32uVpOp
The motor had 3 reverse and 5 forward speeds. It was not adjustable beyond those settings.
@@KayakhacksFishing I used a 45# thrust Minn kotta (Endura max ) trolling motor on my oldtown fishing kayak it has infinite speed selection from 0% to 100% so there's no pm needed, the Minn kotta C-2 motors are like the one you have on your boat.
The endura max motors by Minn kotta use only 2 wires in the tiller control to supply power to the motor windings that are #8 wire (Hever wire no heat) The Minn kotta C-2 motors use 4 wires to supply power to the motor windings that are #14 wire that's why there's only 3 reverse and 5 forward.
By the way you have some great hacks thanks fo being willing to share with everyone one. Ed.
You are good to go. The Endura has a PWM built in!
If you don't mind me asking what do you have invested in the trolling motor project? Including all the boxes, boards, electrical, hardware, everything you've purchase/used for this project.
Not counting the motor. The battery was around $90, PWM was $26, quick connects $14, marine wire was $8, Tee bolts ... maybe $2 for a total of $140.
@@KayakhacksFishing 👍
My pwm has been holding up for 3 years now . I have been real happy with it . I mainly use it trolling with my downrigger in the snake river . I have ran wires thru the hull since my vid was taken . I am changing my box out this year for a bigger one and going to add a fan czcams.com/video/qsHHnkaMSC8/video.html&feature=shareb
At low speeds, mid range or less the PWM should be more efficiency, because you are not using the shunt resistors in the trolling motor.
Yea the shunt resistors are not producing heat anymore but there's millions of youtube vids with over heating or failed PWMs. I like the idea of a PWM for a kayak where it enables you to move the control system to a more convenient location. Maybe also its nice to have full variable speed. But what's the real world power savings on battery life if a PWM is just sat there over heating? Yea buy are larger PWM to handle the loads but what is the side by side comparison. This guys video was interesting but offered no real evidence either way?
What size amp hour battery were you using? Also , I wonder if you ran the motor in a barrel of water with the PWM, and then ran it without the PWM for the same amount of time , Would that give you a somewhat better idea if it does save power or not. Maybe run it at different speeds like the first hour 60%, second hour 75%, third hour at 20% throttle etc. and do the same for both at the exact hour marks.
I have a 75ah. Your test would be interesting, but I do not think it is needed to make the case. The Endura Max motor has a built in PWM (they call it the Digital Maximizer) and their tests make the case.
I love your videos, you have more common sense that anybody else.
But I wondering why you would want to move the motor back further. You have a rudder right? So wouldn't keeping the motor more in the center of the boat help negate any turning force imparted by having the motor on the side?
I wish I could have the motor all the way in the back. The problem is I fish in shallow water and the motor needs to be accessible to tilt forward when I run into sandbars and oyster beds.
@@KayakhacksFishing why don't you like it on the side?
@@CaliforniaOutdoorsman I have to settle for it being on the side. The optimum is for the force of the water to run directly across the rudder to get responsive steering. When mounted on the side, the flow is not direct.
@@KayakhacksFishing I have an Old Town Topwater 120 PDL and made a plate to to fit the drive well so the motor is in the center of the kayak. The problem with that is you lose the pedals. I bought a side mount thinking I could have both but haven't mounted it yet. I also bought another 60ah lifepo4 battery for a total of 120ah so I may not even need the pedals at this point. I also bought a huge rudder in case I do mount it on the side. I don't even know what I'm doing at this point. Lol
lol! All those parts!
Thank you for the informative videos. I’m looking to add 30lbs minn Kota to my kayak. One question I have is what size battery where you using? Referring to the amp hours. Thanks
It was a 75ah. My buddy uses a 110ah.
Thanks for the response. Was there a huge difference between the amount of usage and remaining battery life? Would you up the AH if given the chance again? Thanks
When I put the battery on the charger without the PWM is showed less than 25%. With the PWM, it started charging at greater than 25%
I use an old Minn Kota Turbo 65, 36 lbs thrust. I’ve been using a Duracell SLI24MDC, rated at 75ah. Recently I bought a 50ah Lithium battery. Haven’t tried it on the water yet, but I should get more net power than the Duracell, since for trolling, lead acid batteries can be damaged if you discharge them below 50% of their total capacity. Lithiums can be discharged to 80-90%. But for kayakers and campers the big difference is weight. The Duracell weighs 48 pounds and the Lithium weighs 12 pounds.
Great info. Do you use any keel protectors? Any inexpensive diy? Video would be great
I used spray on bedliner to protect my kayak bottom. It was inexpensive and has proven itself to be up to the task. Very happy with added protection with minimal weight gain.
I put the Gator Guard on my last kayak. I have not put it on this one yet
Will Loy good idea what brand? Is it out of a can? And did you do the whole bottom?
1959ghostrider I used an Amazon bedliner product called tpol raptor, but I was set up to do my truck bed and the bottom of my kayak was a second thought. I had plenty left over to protect the yaks bottom. I have seen bediner in aerosol cans that are probably easier than the raptor type? Easy to keep clean too!
If you check out the site of Tahoe Yak Fisher on YT you can get some info about battery life, etc based on his experiences. His setup is different than yours but he uses a PWM . Like your site and the stuff you present. Maybe you can do a video on cleaning up your yak, motor and gear after fishing in salt water.
Good ideas! Thanks
Does the 21 khz interfere (when trolling unit is in use) with the Fish Finder/ Sonar reading?
I do not know - good question.
Have you ever tried to run a trolling motor with a small generator? Maybe something to look into to add to your awesome video hacks...
I guess you could use one of those 720Wh power boxes....
How is the pwm protected from the elements/water?
It is in a box - czcams.com/video/aUWC-4etAg4/video.html
If PWM devices are so great why hasn't any of the trolling motor companies built their trolling motors with these PWM devices installed? None of these videos show how the heavy 6 or 8 guage trolling motor wires connect to the tiny terminals on the PWM. It is all fraud and false advertising to get people to buy crappy devices that fry and you get stuck with the loss.
Actually, some do. Minn Kota calls it the "digital maximizer." minnkotamotors.johnsonoutdoors.com/freshwater-trolling-motors/traxxis
I do show the wire issue in a different video.
I’m just here for the freebies.
What about the free medical advice!
Kayak Hacks Fishing Ok, yer dumb. Want a second opinion? Yer uglee too. Old doctor joke.