Tesla 12v battery - Proper Care & Feeding
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- čas přidán 16. 05. 2024
- One of the most despised components in an EV - The 12v battery! Let's discuss why it's there, why it's hated, and why it's important, then what are the solutions to keeping your Tesla happy.
If you haven't seen my previous 2 videos on t his topic:
• Tesla Plaid - 12 volt ...
• Update! Part 2 - Tesl...
Please do not buy aftermarket junk like the Ohmmu battery. You will spend about 6 times the cost of replacing the OEM $85 unit! Even if you have to replace the OEM every few years, that's still less money over the life you'll probably keep the car! (and that's assuming the aftermarket unit would last that long!)
If you liked this video, check out my other content: czcams.com/users/ingineerixvi...
You can also support the channel here: www.paypal.com/donate?hosted_...
If you have any ideas for content you'd live to see, please let me know! - Auta a dopravní prostředky
If you haven't seen my previous 2 videos on t his topic:
czcams.com/video/QLVFxgKnV0U/video.html
czcams.com/video/fJH1r1s8B6Y/video.html
Please do not buy aftermarket junk like the Ohmmu battery. You will spend about 6 times the cost of replacing the OEM $85 unit! Even if you have to replace the OEM every few years, that's still less money over the life you'll probably keep the car! (and that's assuming the aftermarket unit would last that long!)
If you liked this video, check out my other content: czcams.com/users/ingineerixvideos
You can also support the channel here: www.paypal.com/donate?hosted_button_id=DT4S6DVGSBX3W
If you have any ideas for content you'd live to see, please let me know!
The OEM battery is now $165 or $265 with installation. I just bought the battery today at Tesla Corte Madera, CA and completed the installation, not very hard or very fun. I'll get myself something nice with the $100 I saved!
Thanks for the video, I was thinking about getting a Ohmmu battery and am happy with my choice to stick with a stock Tesla battery after your review.
I had to change the 12 volt battery in my model 3 in the long term parking garage at SFO last October. While abroad, the Tesla app sent me notifications that the 12 volt battery was failing - and the SOC of the main battery dropped quickly - from 75% down to 20% in about six days. Luckily a friend was able to meet me at SFO with a replacement 12 volt battery from Tesla - and we had it changed in the garage in about 10 minutes. .(Greetings from Oakley BTW)
A failing lead acid battery can suck a huge amount of power just to keep itself at 12V. At the end it will basically boil itself dry after which it ceases to be a battery anymore.
That process will also smell really bad.
Better at SFO than downtown SF. I bet catalytic converter thief's will soon target quick remove lipo packs. Less to carry and easier to hide.
Interesting story! You could have probably waited and changed it at home though, but glad you got it solved! Yes, the car will have to keep the contactors closed to support the failed battery, so it's like leaving sentry mode on.
(And Yes, I'm in Oakley!)
As a new Tesla owner, and being new to EVs, I really appreciate the way you explain everything. You got a new sub, and I look forward to checking out your other videos!
Yeah, I have quite a few you'll enjoy! czcams.com/users/ingineerixvideos
Amazing video. Saved me from trying out those Ohmmu batteries.
A must watch for all Tesla owners, especially those who went with this Ohmmu disaster bomb.
Thank You So much. My Tesla Model 3 flashed a warning that the 3 year old battery needed to be replaced. And I was going to buy this new battery to replace the lead battery in my car. Luckily I found your video before making this mistake.
I tried the Ohmmu battery three years ago. It came with the battery terminals reversed from the OEM battery, and I returned it. Your internal battery discussion makes me very glad I did return it.
Nice to see you back again (:
Great topic, I've always been curious about how these work. Also really interesting on the other aftermarket lithium battery, haven't seen very much information on those besides where they're sold. Thanks for sharing
thanks. more interesting and informative than most Munro videos! Hard to believe considering this is a one man team.❤🔥💪
Thanks! Yeah, sadly I don't have the resources Munro does.
Very informative channel. Thank you very much
Thanks for this video. Sticking to an OEM battery when it goes bad.
Great video (as are all of yours). Just passed the 4yr mark on my 3 and was tempted to go non-OEM when the time comes; thanks to you, now I know better 👍
Excellent content Phil, you just saved me from an expensive mistake. So glad you are back sharing your valuable expertise with us! Thank you!
I'm always impressed by the master knowledge that you display in your videos. Thank you very much for putting in all the work it takes to get to the bottom of all the details.
Thanks!!!
Probably one of the most concise and valuable information videos I've seen about Tesla 12v batteries and the aftermarket Lithium replacements to AVOID AT ALL COSTS. Since they're priced so high, it's easy to do. Thank you very much for the education and warnings.
Thanks for the video. I hope you can do more. I look forward to them.
I definitely intend on it! Please also check out my back catalog: czcams.com/users/ingineerixvideos
Thank you. I was looking at the Ohmmu and now I will stay with old tech :)
Thanks to you just ordered my battery from Tesla. 👍🙏
I'm an electrician/ electronics guy and the owner of an older Model S. When my 12v battery died I saw these aftermarket batteries advertised and wondered how they could possibly interface with the existing vehicle design for a lead acid battery. I know there's a lot of people that are way smarter than me and perhaps they had somehow created a BMS that would interface, but I felt too dubious about it and replaced it with another lead acid battery. I'm so glad I did now.
Thank you for sharing your wealth of knowledge.
Thanks for the fantastic information! Always a pleasure to watch your videos.
Thanks, much appreciated!
Invaluable information of owning a Tesla.
Good advise on that Li-ion LVB as I know many people have tried that very thing.
I hate that I even suggested thinking it was a true LFP cells and was safe to do.
Thanks. Very informative
Very well said. Thank you for educating me a little on the 12v battery.
Thanks!
Didn't know! We just bought a 2023 Model 3 which has the new LI battery. Thanks for the great info and video!!!
Phil, I’m so glad to finally have this explained to me and I hope that lots of other Tesla owners find it as informative.
Your're welcome!
Thank you for this information! I have purchased one used and very happy I didn’t try to use it. (21 model S)
Wow,thank you for this informative video.. I was so close to buying an Ohmmu battery but this certainly has changed my mind! You saved me $400! New sub
You're welcome!
Thanks Phil for this video. Very informative and interesting. I am glad I decided to stick with Tesla's PbA replacement batteries! They lasted about 5 years on both my Model S and Model 3. As you point out, it is easy and inexpensive to do these replacements.
You're welcome! I'll do a video showing how to replace it soon.
Great presentation on the battery system. At 4 years on my 2020 Tesla Y ownership I am doing a preemptive battery replacement. It's worth the peace of mind knowing we should be safe while traveling for only $85.
Thank you for the video.
Wow! I had the Ommhu on my list of things to upgrade on my May 2021 Model 3. I was of course waiting for the existing Lead Acid battery to die before replacing it. But not anymore. This opened my eyes to how bad (and how overpriced) the Ommhu product is. Such a shame. Do you think there is any way to get a well engineered aftermarket LFP battery that mimics the existing Lead Acid battery?
Sounds like your 2021 car might already have a better lithium 12 volt battery, since that is the year they switched.
Very Informative, Thank you. I had thought about doing the Ohmmu battery swap. Not anymore. I had no idea the OEM lead acid was the cheap. $85 from Tesla is nothing compared to typical automotive batteries these days. What is the AH rating of the 12V lead battery. Is the OEM battery AGM or flooded cell?
I don't recommend LFP for the reasons I talked about in the video. If the BMS opens because the car thinks it's charging a lead-acid, you get alerts, and then stress out the PCS. For $85 every 5 years, it's not worth it either.
Early cars had flooded, later were AGM in most cases (but it varied). It's 45Ah as I show in the video.
Thanks. Very informative.
Thank you so much for this video. I am the owner of an Ohmuu 12v battery for my 2019 Model 3 and it lasted about 4 years. It did a fine job for those 4 years. But now the car won't start (12v is dead) so I am looking at my options. You really made the case for why these Ohmuu batteries are not a good idea. I will get a standard lead acid replacement. Cheap, simple and safer. You really have an impressive knowledge of batteries!
Really Thanks for this video… saved me BIG TIME !
Pretty damn good video!
Every Tesla owner should see this video.
Thorough and objective. Thank you!
You're welcome!
I really appreciate you making this video. I totally agree. My odometer is at around 60k miles, and I just did my first lead acid 12v battery replacement. I didn't get any warnings but did it because it was just so cheap and easy, and I didn't want to be stranded in the middle of freeways. $80 from the counter it was. So cheap and so easy. No need to spend that expensive $500 for the lithium battery for which my 2021 model 3 isn't designed. Now, I am a huge believer of aftermarket parts ONLY when I know what they really are. For EVs, I know NOTHING! That means stay to the bone stock and use only genuine parts!
Thanks for the tips. 👌
You're welcome!
Very useful info. Thanks!
Wow, thanks for that deep dive on the original lead-acid in the Model 3 and the info on the new Li ion battery.
I would add, however, that some number of the lead-acid batteries died in the 2 to 3 year range - like mine.
Unfortunately I fell for the hype of the Ohmmu and it did result in error messages as you pointed out. They would not refund my money.
I just had to buy a Tesla lead-acid battery anyway.
@@NoInfoFound same here, regarding the battery only lasting about two years. The next one held for like 8 months but that was replaced under warranty. Glad I never considered anything but an original replacement.
Thanks, you're welcome! I have 2 other prior videos on this topic as well. Check the description.
Thank you for this video
Excellent info. Thanks for sharing.
Great informative video. Really appreciate this content
Thanks!
Thanks so much for this video!
Wow, awesome, much appreciated!!! Feel free to email me if you ever have questions.
Agreed on mystery packs not listing their string/parallel setups. Need nutrition facts stickers on the sides of these things!
Great. Thank you for the video
Great video - this explains some issues/behavior I've seen and corrects some misconceptions I had about the new battery! One note: there is a very specific edge case problem with the 'new' Tesla/CATL 12V battery C rev that will cause it to pop the e-fuse and in newer firmware reset after 20 seconds. The D rev supposedly fixes this issue by upping the current limits in hardware (and software.) We had this issue pop up during an autocross, due to lots of current in/out of the rack per the Tesla engineer who helped us look at the issue and gave us the above info. Just a FYI for those that might watch this and have the same issue!
Interesting, Thanks for posting that! This is exactly why you need a stiff 12v bus. Autocross is severe duty.
The Tesla LV system is such an interesting topic, glad you keep posting on it! Why Tesla chose the lead acid was a favorite interview question for my old manager. Im really curious why they ended up going with the lithium LV battery. If the bom cost is really 2.5 times the lead acid I cant really see the benefit. Overall the system is definitely more complex and we had engineered out most of the warranty replacements of the lead acid even back in 2017. I feel like the time to do the switch would be when they go to 48V systems as the Lead acid versions at that range are not nearly as price competitive.
Thanks! My estimation on the BoM cost of this is well under $50. Tesla (Elon) promised to never attempt to profit on service, but clearly this is not the case. I would have went with a larger capacity LFP with a proper BMS if I was going to do it. Going with NMC and raising the bus voltage to 15.5-16v was a bad idea, it's creating all kinds of problems for the aftermarket too.
Excellent video! Very informative. I talked to Tesla yesterday, 12v batteries are now $120.
An update for everyone. I purchased a battery from Tesla today. It was $182 not $120. The warranty on it is 12 months 12,000 miles. Tesla told me they make the batteries. It says made in Korea on it. Next time I will use a battery from the auto parts store….3 year or better warranty. This model x is junk. Extended warranty is worthless. I will probably cancel my order for the truck. Very disappointed in Tesla.
Wow, Thanks!
I almost bought one of these. 😮
So glad I found this video. I was just about to get one of those Ohmmu batteries. Will stick with the led acid. Honestly it's not that big of a deal to have the old tech battery. When Tesla switches to 48v, that will be the game changer.
Agreed, I can't wait to have a look at the 48v system!
Wow. Really good info as always. My Model Y is only about 18 months old so I'm not too worries anytime soon about 12v bat failure but I probably would have gotten the Ohmu battery thinking it'll last forever being a LFP. But it totally makes sense why the Ohmu battery throws a bunch of errors. Essentially the lead acid battery is acting like a capacitor on the 12v bus. Could be easily fixed if you could tell the PCS to limit it's voltage so the BMS on the Ohmu doesn't have to cut out due to cell over voltage.
If your Model Y is only 18mth old then it would have the newer Li-Ion battery anyway. This change occurred in 2021 and was mentioned in the video.
Thanks for the great video! Question, is there any recommended / safe locations to connect aftermarket accessories to constant battery, ignition and ground. I’m struggling to find constant battery as you mentioned in your video due to the low amp hours of the 16v battery it shuts off all non critical loads. What loads stay on? where can I find them? and are they safe to connect a 100mA active 25mA sleep draw?
Danke! from Germany for this great information 🤗👍💡💡💡
Awesome, Thanks!
Great explanations , as alwais!
Great info here, I stumbled on this video while researching how the power outputs work in Teslas (wondering if they turn off automatically or if they can be set to stay on (lets say I want to run a 12v mini fridge).
Really I advise against this. Safest move is to use a portable power station. Tesla also voids your battery warranty if you do this. ("Stationary power" is specifically called out in the warranty)
fascinating...
Hi Phil, Love your channel. Could you please share your opinion on the Tesla sound system? Specially interested if you would recommend replacing the speakers with something like Lightharmonic > thanks for your great content 😊
I replaced the speakers on my first Model S, but the system on my 3 is adequate. I'm happy with it, but I'm not an audiophile either.
Cheers for another informative video, Ingineerix! I'd like to point out one thing though, and it is that you have a directional mic or some 3D mixer when you record. Your voice is all over the place and mostly to the right when you talk, is there a way you can force regular stereo audio when you record? From us headphone lovers, cheers.
Thanks for pointing this out. I do these videos on a budget using my phone camera, no external mic, but I'll check into this, or at least downmix to mono in the future if it's a problem.
Hi Phil, I just got a Tesla Model 3 with the 16V Li-Ion battery.
It is a company car and was standing in the parking lot for 3 weeks and when I was trying to use it the first time it did nothing. Couldn’t open the car or anything.
After watching a few CZcams videos I found how to open the frunk when the 12V battery is dead and got to the Li battery.
I am not an expert, but assumed that jump starting with another car would work to open the door and connected another car battery to the plus and Earth poles without touching the Li-Ion battery. It started the system and I finally got into the car and was able to open the charge port to plug it in.
I kept the HV battery on charge and had the car jump connection running for about an hour as I assumed it might need the 12V power to run the computer system (I assumed the 12V battery was dead).
Do you think connecting the jump leads to another battery for longer could have ruined the Li Ion battery?
Basically after I disconnected the 12V battery supply it came with a lot of error messages.
I couldn’t drive it off after charging the HV to 40miles as the car said the voltage is too low. I am a bit worried, but I am hoping the HV battery will charge the small battery over the weekend and then everything will be fine. I talked to Tesla on the phone and they said they could still see that the small battery had some juice in it. However, they also said I should be able to drive it.
One of the error message (a479) is saying that I need to push down a connector until locked in place, but I never took anything out so I am not sure what it means.
Sorry for the long message, but I wonder if you had any thoughts. Thanks
Thanks so much for this valuable information.
I had an early model S and its led acid battery lasted ~ 8 years. Tesla mobile tech changed it for $200! However, I noticed that technician installed/updated a new battery firmware and always since then wondered why?
The original Model S 12 V batteries were no longer available in 2020 when I had mine replaced. The Tesla tech installed new firmware so that the DC-DC would use the correct parameters to charge the new 12 V battery.
Yes, @George is correct here. The newer C&D model has a slightly different charging profile, so to make it last longer, they have a setting in the Gateway for this specific model (C&D Nano). It's not firmware, just a setting the gateway uses to modify the charge algorithm.
I appreciate this video and how informative it is, but you really should change the title. I didn't see anything about maintaining the 12v lead acid battery. I would have liked to know if I can use a battery tender or something similar on the battery to keep it lasting longer.
Thank you for this informative video; cutting corners is pricy and leads to double work.
Thank for you this video. I would have bought an OHMMU if I didn't see this. Coming up to 4 years of ownership and no issues.
Yeah, probably a good time to go ahead and replace it. (Before you have issues)
Very interesting video, thank you. My model 3 12V battery failed after about 3 years and I replaced it under warranty. I was not tempted to get that lithium iron replacement due to the cost. Now I know it’s a total no-no anyway. I am surprised by the low cost of the Tesla lead acid battery, much lower than the equivalent from an auto parts store. I remember researching it at the time and a compatible non-Tesla one has to be group 51R, AGM.
You're welcome! Glad you kept the OEM!
Good stuff as always
Thanks Arnold!
Great info, as always!!
Nice video, as usual. How often do the HV contactors close to charge the Li low voltage battery when the car is sleeping. If it's a lot more often will that not put more wear on them?
They have gotten the sleep loads down enough that it's very infrequent. (as long as no aftermarket equipment) The contactors should last the life of the car in this case.
If Tesla is too far away to get oem battery, which one is a safe option from auto parts store close by? 2020 12v model 3.
Good thing I saw this video. Before I'd for sure hook that battery up to the bench power supply and try to charge it - not anymore. Just connect jump leads to the car and activate battery in service mode!
Luckily the internal BMS prevents external charging, the explosion was caused by someone recharging it by cracking it open and bypassing the internal BMS. People don't understand dendritic damage.
excellent info ty
Hi, thanks for your informative videos. Do you have any recommendations or insight on how to safely tap for some high current applications on the new m3 and mY. I was thinking about audio, inverter (110/230v) and similar. Since it is no longer a high amperage lead acid battery? I think I remember you had some older videos about it for the old system.
I would think Taxi and gear for disabled people/wheelchair systems needs more than the 12v outlet in middle.
Yes, it can be done by tapping the feed directly (through a fuse of course) from the PCS, but you need a contactor or relay that is driven by the accessory feed so it opens when the car goes to sleep. Really big loads such as audio amps and inverters may need an additional precharge circuit.
Thanks for the info: It will save Tesla owners many dollars.
Had a software update last year that made the contactors close all the time. No warnings about battery though, but I disconnected the 12V and let it sit over night and it still read as 100% SoC on my 3 year old model 3. Put a load on it and no significant dip in voltage. Fingers crossed for a 6+ year battery.
If the contactors are closed all the time, then it's never using the 12v battery. Keep in mind this is NOT normal unless you have sentry mode on, and will result in a lot of miles of range lost each day you aren't driving the car.
Just wondering: are you involved with the Maxwell EV van conversions? Great content BTW.
Yes, That's my "day" job. I am CTO, and developed all the tech we use in the vans.
So basically since Tesla went with a NMC-based 16V instead of LFP it should be able to charge at much colder temps correct? Any idea if there is a heating element in it for when temps get super cold like they get here in Minnesota? Love the content!
Check out my other 2 videos on this battery, they are linked in the video description above.
Just watched this great video again! You mentioned the LV battery helps minimize voltage spikes on the LV buss and gives the PCS buck converter some help with said spikes. I read somewhere the VC-Front controller limited the inbound and outbound current to/from the LV battery. If true, the outbound surge current from the LV battery might be somewhat limited. The new 16V 6.9ah battery probably can't deliver the same current when voltage spikes occur on the LV buss as the lead-acid could? In my opinion the PCS should be able to supply power to the low voltage bus, without potential damage, even if the car was driven with the LV battery disconnected for an extended amount of time (this assumes the HV contactors are closed and remain so). If the LV battery or anything on the LV buss developed a short, I assume the car is designed to handle such an event without damaging a $2K plus PCS board? Is that one of the functions of the big fuses located on the Model 3/Y PCS board?
First off, the PCS LV is a DC-DC converter, not technically a buck because it's isolated. (and it is bi-directional) Yes, the eFuses in VCFront limit current, but the spikes and load-dumps I'm talking about are extremely short events, but very destructive if not clamped. Because of the short duration, the eFuses pass these ok. Also, I have not tested the performance of the 16V Lithium pack, but I suspect, even though it's very small comparatively, it will have superior spike/dump handling capability than the much large PBA unit. Without bus stability, EVERYTHING on the LV bus is exposed to a lot of stress, not just the PCS. Yes, in a pinch (fault condition) the PCS can carry the loads, but it's not designed to do this continuously, just in an emergency where it's not important for it not accept damaging conditions. Having a noisy bus can stress and/or damage anything on it, and cause a lot of SEUs (Single-Event Upsets) that could result in unexpected/undesired consequences. Yes, the PCS could be designed to handle this mode, but that is non-trivial to engineer, and it would definitely drive up costs, so Tesla is not going to do it.
If I’m running a high power aftermarket stereo, what is the best way to hook up the additional lithium and ultra capacitors? I have them hooked to the PCS’s main post under the seat now, but that is draining the system power to the point where the led acid battery under the hood gets drained too and the car shuts down.
Will contactors close to charge LV battery if car is plugged in? Can it use wall charger to charge LV without interfering with HV?
Yes, as long as the car is charging, the contactors stay closed and the LV system stays supported. No, on any Tesla 2021+ you cannot charge the LV system externally, you have to let the car do it. If you are concerned about long-term storage, you can easily disconnect the 12v (16v) Lithium-Ion battery and then the entire car is then in stasis. You can also just leave the EVSE connected and the car will maintain everything as needed.
Thank you for the informative video. I have a 2023 MY so I found that the small capacity 15V lithium battery is limiting my camping option. I ended up getting one of those portable battery "generator", so I have 2 questions for you sir: 1) What's the tell tale sign that the DC converter is charging the LV pack? (coming from AGM, I would see a 1.5V different) 2) How much current does the DC converter provide when on/charging the LV pack? (so I can estimate how much I can draw from the 12V without depleting the LV batt). Thanks in advance!
Just run a line from the Audio Amp power in the trunk and use that to drive a relay to the PCS connection on the Penthouse. (USE A FUSE!) You can drain 100A without any issues. The biggest issue is finding an inverter the allows up to 16.5V DC.
Great video! I wonder how this 12V lithium batter works in Canada? Have you heard anyone's 12V failed yet, after a year of cold Canadian winter?
No, so far not yet. I think they just avoid charge current until the cells hit over -10C.
4-6 years? Mine lasted 26 months. I do appreciate your information. Thanks.
That's a pretty rare short life. Where do you live? Even so, it's only $85 so not a big deal. Think of what you would have spent on an ICE car by now!
Thanks!
Thanks James, Much appreciated!
Great information. Have tested this battery? Die Hard EV B24L?
No, but my experience with non-OEM batteries is poor. The OEM is relatively low-cost, just use it.
Thanks for the Super Great public safety announcement 👏👏👏
You're welcome. Once I saw the explosion video, I knew I had to make a video. (among the other reasons)
May i ask a question. I have issue with my tesla. Its MYP 6 month old. When i reach 14% buttery i start to get errors: pull over safely, car is shutting down. Vehicle may not restart. Service required. Electrical system power reduced. And so on. Last time i was able to drive after i stoped. This time car just shut down completely, even doors had no power. What could be the reason? This small 12v battery can do this? I have a feeling that 14% charge is actually 0% in real. Tesla did not fix it at first service. I try to understand the problem on my own now :(
It would be cool to know how Tesla is able to detect the 12v lead acid getting weak/needing replacement. Maybe the voltage drop upon the HV contactors closing in?
Lead-acid battery degradation can be easily seen by the voltage drop when the battery is under the load. So they just need a voltage and a current sensor for the 12V circuit.
A $10 battery tester can tell you. ALL modern computerized cars should be able to inform you on the state of the battery.
They "coulomb count" all current into/out of the battery, that's why it's super-important not to hook anything else up to the battery. Once the car sees the total amp-hour capacity go below a set threshold, it will set the "replace battery" alert.
Have you tested an Optima 12V lead acid as a replacement for the Tesla OEM? I have used those in my old Prius, and the size it somewhat similar. I am glad to learn that that clunk I hear each time I approach my Tesla is the traction battery taking over the function of all the 12 accessories leaving only standby functions like Sentry Mode as a load, which in my case is only invoked when I am away from my home. Good to know.
Those are made in Mexico now. Honestly I don’t think the Optimas are that much better than Tesla’s AGM battery. They should be pretty similar. I used to have a Prius too and used the Optima battery but it wasn’t different than the OEM battery at all when it came to longevity.
For $85 every 5 years, I'd stay OEM. The fitment and cost of the Optima will be an issue.
FYI: When Sentry mode is enabled, the car keeps the contactors close so as not to put stress on the 12v battery.
Thanks for the videos. Quick query @13:36 were you not trying to say NMC (not LiFePO4)? I was under the impression the LiFePO4 where less explosive?
I said" This is a ternary battery, this isn't lithium iron phosphate". Meaning this is not as safe as LFP. Hope that's a bit more clear. (You can turn on the closed-captions if I'm hard to understand)
Sorry I missed the "isn't" when listening 😊. Thanks for clarifying 👍
Nice of you to give the heads up, thanks. My 3 has the old lead acid battery so maybe I'm lucky. On a separate topic, I have an spare inverter designed for use with solar panels. It will take up to 500vdc in. Could I access the Tesla 400v battery and use that with the inverter? We have day long power outtages here in the wapwaps and I thought that would be an obviouse feature when I bought the car... silly boy. Any thoughts/suggestions?
The inverter charger is rated for 5kwatt max. output at 240voltsAC, 50cycles/s. I'm in new zealand fyi
I *HIGHLY* recommend against this! For starters there is specific language in the Tesla warranty against this use. Secondly, it's super dangerous, and you are risking an expensive car. Thirdly, there is no good/easy way to connect it. Forthly, The solar inverter expects relatively high-impedance PV input, and could blow up with an input as stiff as the car HV system. Fifthly, Your inverter is probably not isolated, so it will trip the isolation detection in the car and shut down. Tesla will then not cover any repairs. Just buy one of the many portable battery/inverter combos on the market now, don't risk your Tesla!
Nice informative video.
Now for the dumb question: Is it possible to run a 500W sinewave inverter off the Lithium battery?
I'm guessing no, because the max voltage might be too high for the inverter, or maybe the car will think there's a problem with the battery.
Would only be doing this while the car is awake btw, so the HV battery should be connected to the DC-DC converter.
Also wondering what the DC-DC converter power rating is.
I don't recommend you try this. For starters there is specific language in the Tesla warranty against this. Secondly, yes the DC-DC voltage can go over 15.5v which is a problem for most 12v rated inverters. Thirdly, there is no good/easy way to connect it, you absolutely should not tap the jump post! But to answer your question, the PCS can provide around 180A if you turn off everything you can.
Good stuff here! What’s the best way to connect 12v accessories? Air compressors for air bags, LED underglows, etc.
Complex subject that depends on which Tesla you have, when it was made, and what your loads are.
@@Ingineerix Looking at Model 3 / Y’s with SLA and, the newer ones with the small 16v lithium battery. Dual compressors draw about 40 amps @ 12vdc when running, underglows draw around max of 15 amps at 12vdc
@@TonyPham-Creations Put a relay/contactor on the large PCS feed (under back seat) and have it's coil hooked to the accessory power circuit. You cannot just connect loads there without a relay. Underglows can been hooked directly to the power amp feed in the trunk. (~40A rating)
How do you get tesla EPC to give you pricing?
You have to apply for an account, it's not easy!
I replaced my Model 3 lead acid battery at 5 years (110,000 miles) even though it was still working fine. I connected a Bluetooth battery monitor to the battery to see how often my car was waking up to charge it. Was waking up every 4 hours. Decided to replace it with an enhanced flooded lead acid from AutoZone and it now wakes up every 8 hours. This will reduce cycles on my high voltage contactors, which are way more work and money to replace than the lead acid. I opened up my original lead acid and saw that the water level was low in it and I could see the plates clearly. This contributed to the reduced capacity.
Yeah, replacing it every 4 years is a good idea. Keep in mind the car expects AGM chemistry, so you might run into issues with the aftermarket.
Your channel is great
Thanks!
Just a heads up. There is a procedure for not just changing but resetting the warning on the 12v tesla systems. The omu will work. You can actuality put your car into service mode. Unlock the gateway and set it up for lithium. Also if you put a brand new lead acid in your tesla and it still says service 12v battery. You just need to turn the climate control off. Remove the neg 12v cable. Lift the back seat. On passenger side there's a grey lv contactor plug. Disconnect it. Wait 30 seconds. Reinstall neg cable. Connect contactor plug and you're set. Most of the time if your 12v battery goes low it will tell you to replace it even if it's charged back up and good. The procedure will clear the warning without replacing the battery. If it happens again then you will need to replace it.
Hi, nice video! So if I get it right, you could use an old 12 V lead-acid to jump start a newer model that has the Li-ion 12 V battery? Could you even run the car with it? (85 $ replacement vs 200$)
Yes, you can jump it, but you can't "use" it because the car will not charge it properly.
How can I extend the life of the 12V lead acid battery? I live in a hot climate (Florida). Does keeping the car plugged into the charger at home more frequently help?
No, sadly elevated temps will generally shorten the life somewhat. You should still get 3-4 years out of it, and the cost is so low that it's not much of a worry.