This is a Moebius Model all-styrene kit. The battery box is a 3D STL file available from 3Dfiglab - you can find them on Facebook and Patreon if you want to purchase the file.
I'm glad that you showed how you did the glassware, I was looking forward to that. I love how you did the books and googles. Nice touch of the putty on the coat for texture. 😍🤩👍
Great construction with some really imaginative and nice ideas…..👍 The notes on the desk are so realistic and the finish to the floor boards is excellent….love it.
I just love sprueVerse! Everytime you make a new model I watch several times through, and then decide "I need to build that!" So enjoyable & fun! Next for me is the Infinite Statue Laurel & Hardy Model T. Found one! Thank you so much.
He he he , that was such a fun build, I had put off watching the video for 6 days, because I thought that I would not like it. Well I was wrong! I liked it very much,... The blue light looks much better in the photos then it does in the video. Love the black & white photo....
A bold choice! And a unique execution! I think the lighting was a necessary highlight, Especially for those who may not know the reference straight away. I might have even pushed for a pulsing version to be even more overt! I was surprised to see the end result so clean and somehow unbelievable in appearance, but it does mesh well with the 'clean cut' aesthetic of its time. Still, I am left wondering what sort of textural effect was missed by not hitting the bandages with at least the minimum of a wash.
Send me your mailing address to sprueverse@gmail.com and I’ll send you the kit! I have extras - all you have to do is promise to build it and send me photos when you are finished! No hurry!! Just build it this year!! Cheers! Phil
I think you did a bang-up job-- that blue light says "eeeerie" to me! I like to how much extra effort you went to put us in the scene. I have had some very good results running .010" styrene sheet through my inkjet printer. Just needs a seal coat. And I open up the back to run it through flat which my HP was made for! My only observation is that I would have made the flooring edge-to-edge. Just my button-down mind. Your collaboration with the FigLab gang is very nice-- the results are clever and, I hope profitable. They deserve to be! Remember when Big Science could be done in your drawing room? Chemical spills-- hey, I'm very neat. Dangerous odors-- have you smelled last week's mutton? This stuff is fine. Besides-- 'smell it' I'm going to drink it! And a skull! Of course-- one needs a skull in an inconspicuous corner to gain admission to The Royal Academy. It's been a while since I read The Invisible Man-- was this potion the goal or just a happy (non-Rossian) accident? Well, only one way to find out what it does! Ahhh those were the days. These are pretty good days too-- we have some rather thrilling efforts to model with. Your glam shots showed it all-- and, a very nice backdrop!!!
Dear Phil-- normally I would not upbraid a chum in the open-- but I believe this is important enough so that everyone hears. You were using your miniaturists' table saw in a potentially hazardous way. Certainly if you would take that method to a real table saw, serious injury most likely would result. You used your hand to guide the wood-- and placed the short end between the blade and the rip fence. That was bad. So, you were using the table saw like a band saw-- band saws do not have a lot of stuff around the blade, usually. There's a tool that comes with a table saw, the miter gauge. It has an adjustable angle and slides in the slots in the table top. Of note is that it commonly slides at a right angle to the blade. You do not use the rip fence with it. When you had a small end between the blade and the rip fence, you might have managed to get the small piece of wood to go off angle-- and wedge itself between the blade and the rip fence. I don't know if your rig is AC or DC, but it is an electric motor and could cause trouble. It could flip the small piece of wood up. When introducing the wood to the blade (your way) the small end could wedge and cause the rest of the wood to shatter or stop the blade. This is a potential disaster on a full-sized table. Less so on this hobby sized one, but not "best practice." It gets much worse if doing this with any wide flat pieces of sheet wood. Use your miter gauge with no rip fence! I know-- you wanted to take off only so much-- so put a piece of tape down as a guide point.
Beautiful job, Phil. I admire all of your choices in upscaling the kit. There is a glaring mistake with it though........Claude Raines would be shorter than the model figure if placed next to him...HA,HA,Ha,ha,ha. Insert the laughter of Hugh Laurie as the Prince Regent from Black Adder the 3rd. I've done a few resin busts of WW2 subjects and they have unique challenges. Some are posted on my channel. I would like to do the JLabs3DStudio, 1925 Lon Chaney, Phantom of the Opera but the Dolman 1/6 Chennault bust may win out for the next figure project.
I'm glad that you showed how you did the glassware, I was looking forward to that. I love how you did the books and googles. Nice touch of the putty on the coat for texture. 😍🤩👍
Great construction with some really imaginative and nice ideas…..👍
The notes on the desk are so realistic and the finish to the floor boards is excellent….love it.
I just love sprueVerse! Everytime you make a new model I watch several times through, and then decide "I need to build that!" So enjoyable & fun! Next for me is the Infinite Statue Laurel & Hardy Model T. Found one! Thank you so much.
Beautiful build! Your enthusiasm for the hobby is infectious. This channel is food for the soul.
He he he , that was such a fun build, I had put off watching the video for 6 days, because I thought that I would not like it. Well I was wrong! I liked it very much,... The blue light looks much better in the photos then it does in the video. Love the black & white photo....
Congratulations on another great work Phil, It's quite a "visible" work of art!! 😃
Your videos are awesome! Such fantastic ideas, I really enjoy watching you build!
been watching for the last hour & half.. just noticed the Thing '82 T-shirt..! new subscriber from the UK
A bold choice! And a unique execution!
I think the lighting was a necessary highlight, Especially for those who may not know the reference straight away. I might have even pushed for a pulsing version to be even more overt!
I was surprised to see the end result so clean and somehow unbelievable in appearance, but it does mesh well with the 'clean cut' aesthetic of its time. Still, I am left wondering what sort of textural effect was missed by not hitting the bandages with at least the minimum of a wash.
The Invisible kit of the year? Love your enthusiasm. I'm an original 'Lightwave' FX artist and would love to see a SeaQuest model build.
I did build the seaQuest last year on the channel - I will build up the other kits. Cheers!
I wasn't aware of this kit until now but, I'm definitely going to get one thanks to your ideas on what to do with it. Thanks, Phil!
Send me your mailing address to sprueverse@gmail.com and I’ll send you the kit! I have extras - all you have to do is promise to build it and send me photos when you are finished! No hurry!! Just build it this year!! Cheers! Phil
Great job as always and I rather like the blue LED effect.
Popsicle Floor: Jason Jenson does a thing to his wood exterior parts. He wire brushes them to give the wood grain. Maybe that would work here?
Super impressive Phil.
I think you did a bang-up job-- that blue light says "eeeerie" to me! I like to how much extra effort you went to put us in the scene. I have had some very good results running .010" styrene sheet through my inkjet printer. Just needs a seal coat. And I open up the back to run it through flat which my HP was made for! My only observation is that I would have made the flooring edge-to-edge. Just my button-down mind.
Your collaboration with the FigLab gang is very nice-- the results are clever and, I hope profitable. They deserve to be!
Remember when Big Science could be done in your drawing room? Chemical spills-- hey, I'm very neat. Dangerous odors-- have you smelled last week's mutton? This stuff is fine. Besides-- 'smell it' I'm going to drink it! And a skull! Of course-- one needs a skull in an inconspicuous corner to gain admission to The Royal Academy. It's been a while since I read The Invisible Man-- was this potion the goal or just a happy (non-Rossian) accident? Well, only one way to find out what it does!
Ahhh those were the days.
These are pretty good days too-- we have some rather thrilling efforts to model with. Your glam shots showed it all-- and, a very nice backdrop!!!
Great build of this iconic movie and novel! This was an excellent build to watch and enjoy! Two thumbs up!
Dear Phil-- normally I would not upbraid a chum in the open-- but I believe this is important enough so that everyone hears. You were using your miniaturists' table saw in a potentially hazardous way. Certainly if you would take that method to a real table saw, serious injury most likely would result. You used your hand to guide the wood-- and placed the short end between the blade and the rip fence. That was bad. So, you were using the table saw like a band saw-- band saws do not have a lot of stuff around the blade, usually. There's a tool that comes with a table saw, the miter gauge. It has an adjustable angle and slides in the slots in the table top. Of note is that it commonly slides at a right angle to the blade. You do not use the rip fence with it.
When you had a small end between the blade and the rip fence, you might have managed to get the small piece of wood to go off angle-- and wedge itself between the blade and the rip fence. I don't know if your rig is AC or DC, but it is an electric motor and could cause trouble. It could flip the small piece of wood up. When introducing the wood to the blade (your way) the small end could wedge and cause the rest of the wood to shatter or stop the blade. This is a potential disaster on a full-sized table. Less so on this hobby sized one, but not "best practice." It gets much worse if doing this with any wide flat pieces of sheet wood.
Use your miter gauge with no rip fence! I know-- you wanted to take off only so much-- so put a piece of tape down as a guide point.
Point well taken…shop safety is imperative - I will be sure to emphasize that going forward.
Beautiful job, Phil. I admire all of your choices in upscaling the kit. There is a glaring mistake with it though........Claude Raines would be shorter than the model figure if placed next to him...HA,HA,Ha,ha,ha. Insert the laughter of Hugh Laurie as the Prince Regent from Black Adder the 3rd. I've done a few resin busts of WW2 subjects and they have unique challenges. Some are posted on my channel. I would like to do the JLabs3DStudio, 1925 Lon Chaney, Phantom of the Opera but the Dolman 1/6 Chennault bust may win out for the next figure project.
Looks cool.
Can't wait...let's get started building something. 😊
The one clear jar with the different colored beads, looks like the making of a DNA strand.
you know, somehow I just can't see you building this. I had an invisible man kit, but i put it down and now i can't find it
It’s Invisible that’s why you can’t find it!!
Very nice work sir🎩🎩
How can you find the parts if it is invisible? LOL
I have this kit in my stash, but where is your accent from ?
I'm originally from the UK, Southend-on-Sea in Essex - left when I was 10 - grew up State side in San Diego, CA.
Curiosity kills the cat ! Where is your accent from??
I’m from the UK originally.
1 hour 5 mins, i can hear a dog in the background, is that your dog?
Her name is Penny Rose - she is a rescue Hound dog.
Bet there's alot of clear parts 😂😂