Jeep Wrangler YJ - Ford 8.8 prep going in Rust Bucket
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- čas přidán 20. 10. 2018
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A couple of people on Jeep Wrangler Forum told me about ECGC and they have kits with U-bolts, plates, shock mounts and saddles for 8.8 swaps.(No cutting needed) Also E-brake cables to go from the 8.8 to YJ, as well as U-joint adapter and even the sensor hole plug ($1.50). I hope this helps your viewers. Thank you for supplying that chart showing the diff codes. It saved me over $2,000 CAD by telling me the code for a 4.10:1 limited slip which is what I have in my 1992, 2.5 litre. Your videos have helped me immensely. Especially the gas tank and fuel pump hacks. Keep up the great work sir.
Always impressed by how much you do by just yourself. Keep up the good work!
Thanks!! Its not always easy doing this stuff by myself. But I somehow pull it off!! Thanks for dropping in and leaving a cool comment! Have a great day!
You do such an awesome job with your videos brother! You cover every step and always explain the "why" at every stage of the process. This type of guidance is gold for folks like me who want to gain in knowledge and experience and have the confidence to tackle that project that is slightly outside of my comfort zone. Looking forward to eventually taking on an 8.8 install for my 95YJ 4.0! Thanks and keep up the good work!
Ya one trick to get that cable out side a wrench or a through sock over the tabes to contrast them
Having done my fair share of Ford e brake cable replacements, I recommend pulling the cable sheath out of the bracket and then pull the cable off the lever, it’s much easier.
After all the motorcycle cables I've done in my life, you would think I would have thought about that. LOL
Great video.. I just did this swap and it's a great upgrade.
So much respect for what you have done to the ol yj.
I just couldn't bring myself to put the rusty rotten ol girl down. So .. I build a toy out of it! 😊 Glad you like it!! Thanks for dropping in! Have a great day!
You can use a socket to release the brake parking brake cable finger, thanks for sharing
You could also do a tie rod flip kit to help with steering geometry if you where to do a spinning over configuration if you did try to go that route
13mm wrench I heard works on the e-brake cable. Slide the box end over the tabs and it squeezes it enough to slide it. Figured ya might want to try it. Awesome work man! Love your videos.
Now that you mention it, I could see that working. I'll try that when I start setting up the rear diff. Thanks for a great suggestion!! Have a great day!
The E brake cable with the 3 ears use a box end wrench to push the ears in... Believe me, it will make your life a whole lot easier... Just a trick I learned working as a mechanic years ago... Have a great day...
Not to tell you what to do but I'd go ahead and do the rear spring over axle...I'd keep the stock springs for articulation and the lift from the axle will help offset any weight you add in the rear...I like the truss way better than the center section/axle tubes welded myself...Have a great day...
thanks for your video very good and helpful
did you ever make a followup video for pinion angle and finalizing the 8.8 install?
How you set the right angle with the sye im doing and 8.8 convertion and what read so far the said if you don't have the right angle you can brake the flange yoke or have vibration on high speed thx
I'm doing an 8.8 swap, in a yj, where did you measure to center th rear, so it lines up with the transfer case
I want to thank you for your time and effort in your videos. I have a question though. Was that a plasma cutter you were using to take off your brackets? I use the ankle dryer to take mine off took two and a half hours.
Yep, its a Plasma cutter. You can get good home shop ones for a decent price now. You will need good clean air from you compressor to make the tips last a while. Even though some say they have built in filters, put a water separator and a filter on the back of the unit. It just helps save money on your investment. Once you get hooked up with a Plasma .. its a game changer!! Metal fab becomes faster and so much easier. Here is a link to a selection on Amazon. I suggest reading through all the reviews if you decide to order one online. Mine came from a Northern Tool store near me. amzn.to/2UiEWry
Before I start any project on my yj I check if chuck has done it first
As someone planning to do axle swaps on a YJ, this is extremely informative. Thanks for your awesome videos!
Great video. Did you do another on how to set the pinion angle before welding the perches on? Im going through that now once my perches get here, Thanks
I still need to finish that rig so I can make that video. It really depends on what type of driveshaft you are using. If its a Double Carden drive shaft point it at the output of the tcase and down 2 degrees. If its a regular driveshaft ... there are too many variables to simply type it out. I dont know if you have any lift, if so how much. Do you have a tcase drop or SYE? There is no way to accurately give that information. Sorry, wished I could have given you a better answer.
Awesome work ill be working on my yj swapping a ls engine on it and a 8.8 rear what would you recommend for the front differential always watching your videos to make my life easy on my yj project
I'd recommend swapping to TJ Rubicon Dana 44 if you can find one. Around my area they are crazy expensive though!
I know this is an old build but did you have issues with the short and long axle tubes?
I just had my Dana 35 blow up the spider gears so I had it re built with a limited slip which I hope will stand up better.
Although from a bolt in perspective I understand building the Dana 35. It would have been better money spent if you had built an 8.8. They are much stronger rears diffs. Thanks for dropping in!! Have a great day!
I don't have a garage to work in, just a gravel parking stall. Also I needed it ASAP as it's my daily driver. I've never done anything like what you are doing so I didn't know what it entailed. Now that I see what you did, I may at a future date upgrade to an 8.8.
What can I put in the front, to replace the Dana 30? I don't like the 3 piece axle. I also prefer locking hubs and would like to put in a limited slip as well, if and when I do a swap.
Leave your Dana 30 alone it is a great axle the only thing you can do to upgrade it is put in one tons
nice
Thanks, glad you liked it!!
Ive seen u bolt flip kits for under axle leaf springs to keep your nuts from dragging. 😉
Yep .. much better when deeze nuts aren't hanging too low!! There is also a junkyard method in which I will make a video on later. I don't have the parts right now so I'm going this route. Thanks for dropping in! Have a great day!
I got a 90 yj rust free would like to do the 8.8 switch what is the Ford to use and bolt pattern for wheels
The 8.8 from an Explorer uses the same bolt pattern as a YJ 5 x 4.5"
Great video! Are you going to do a big brake kit?
I will be eventually swapping in full-size axles from an old Chevy truck I used to own. Those axles are getting the larger brake mod. The 8.8 will get pretty much the stock stuff. I might upgrade them later on. Got other places to spend the money right now :-) Thanks for dropping in! Always good to see ya!! Have a great day!
Eres exelent where yu live or where I find yuo
What year 8.8 did you use? I put an 8.25 in my '89 with 33/10.50s but I think I'm going to 35s so I want to get a stronger axle
I pulled the diff from a 1996 Ford Explorer. Be sure to get the u-joint yoke adapter from a Ford Ranger as well. The Explorer u-joint adapter utilizes a larger ujoint than the YJ. Good luck on the swap!! Let me know how it goes when yo do it. Have a great day!
Should of done soa in rear and 4.5 inch springs in the front with sua and dropped pitman arm
For the most part, I agree with you on the rear SOA. BUT .. there is more to the build than I've put in video so far. I'm going to create a video soon to explain the evolution of the Rust Bucket build. What I haven't gone public with yet is that most of the drive train under Rust Bucket is going to end up under "Beth" the 1991 YJ. "Beth" is my daily driver that stars in most of the videos. Rust Bucket will end up with an LT injected small block 350 / 700R4 trans and full size axles with the rear being a FF 14 bolt.. I already have most of the parts from a previous crawler toy I once had. Some would say it would make more sense to just throw it all under it at once and call the build done instead of building it in stages. I'll explain the "stages" and why when I create the video explaining the evolution of the build. What 4.5" springs are you referring to for the fronts?
Do you have to change the pinion yoke
Get a yoke adapter off of a ford ranger.
Power Addicts - FixJeeps.com - Jeep, car and motorcycle tips sweet thanks man. I’m going to start looking into it.
How much stronger is the 8.8 than the Dana 35?
LOTS!! The 8.8 have larger axle tubes and larger bearings. The ring and pinion are stronger. Just overall the 8.8 is built and designed much better than the Dana 35.
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