Army Painting: Dark Angels Done Quick! [How I Paint Things]
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- čas přidán 20. 07. 2024
- Whether you're an old hand looking to get a bunch of Dark Angels ready for the table as quickly as possible, or someone new to the army who wants an easy, beginner friendly method that's simple to replicate and gives decent results, you can't pass up a cheeky drybrush! Even though the armour isn't actually shaded at all, once this hits the table the eye-catching, bright highlights on the armour will do a lot of the heavy lifting for you - and it won't break the bank to pick up the paints to get started on them!
00:00 - Intro
00:37 - Basecoats
07:26 - Shading
08:01 - Highlights
09:34 - The Finished Dark Angel
Thanks to Producer Patrons Alan, Kyrie, Andrew, Jimmy, Rod, and Phil - as well as all the other Patrons that made this video possible, and Exit23 Games for recording equipment that helps keep the channel ticking over! Find out more at the following links:
/ sonicsledgehammer
/ sonicsledge
/ sonicsledgehammer
ko-fi.com/docwholigan
exit23.games
THE BASE: PVA and a rocky sand mix - this is 'Army Coarse' from WWS. Cover with thinned down Brown Sand from Vallejo, drybrush with Tyrant Skull and add tiny dots of PVA before sprinkling static grass under rocks and into crevices.
PRIMER:
Matt Black (Army Painter)
CITADEL:
Caliban Green (Base)
Underhive Ash (Dry)
Corax White (Base)
Skeleton Horde (Contrast)
Baal Red (Contrast)
Mournfang Brown (Base)
Iron Hands Steel (Base)
Mephiston Red (Base)
Retributor Armour (Base)
Corvus Black (Base)
Nuln Oil (Shade)
Wild Riders Red (Layer)
Skrag Brown (Layer)
VALLEJO:
Steel (Model Air)
VARNISH:
Matt Varnish Spray (Army Painter) - Hry
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Red bolter casings. I see you are also a man of culture.
Black bolters here. Go to hell, men of the 80'ies !
What about goblin green around the base then 😘 ?
Finally a nice and easy, but amazing dark angels scheme. No 5 layers of highlights or airbrush only. Thank you sir!
Absolutely love the chill vibes and realistic levels of painting, too many channels have a thousand steps for their standard battle-line marines, you manage to make them look just as good!
A great video and just what I needed after a very difficult weekend and a stressful driving lesson. I'm sure I'm not the only person who uses your videos to relax and unwind. As well as valuable tips, explained well, you are a kind of therapist. Thanks.
Your prior Dark Angels and Order of the Bloody Rose Sisters videos have been lifesavers. Super excited for this one.
80% of the job can be done in 20% of the time.
Then it's really important to identify toose 80%.
Your painting template is absolutely efficient. Great job.
Dark green again after the dry brush is excellent : the mini is clean again in just a few seconds.
@5:20 "Some people get very cross..." is my new favorite way to dismiss an opinion! I LOVE IT!
Well that looks surprisingly good for how simple it is. I’m impressed!
Adding the decals or a sculpted shoulder pad would have really sealed the deal! It's surprising how much lifting the little details will add.
As always really really helpful.
I'm painting my first Orcs now...by accident. Originally my Nephew wanted to paint them, but I think he overestimated his painting capabilities and his motivation to spend the time.
Now we switched, he is painting necrons, I do Orcs.
(And I think I underrated the time that I need and my lack of competence😂...yeah,we're relatives, without a doubt)
Ohhh a after my birthday treat !
Happy belated birthday, then! 🍰🎉
Finally a proper Dark Angel scheme and not the almost Salamander colour most angels I see now
glad you did an update on the Dark Angels painting tutorial/ figured you would since they are now on the Spot light
A Very Special Thank you , Troy .
🐺
Very quick, naturally D. Angels are some of the easier SM to paint, but neverthless an useful tutorial for whoever wants to build an army. Perhaps you should make a serie of videos about how to fast painting the early chapters!
That is quick! I like the finish and it looks like it is a very easy method. Thanks for sharing this.
the chalkiness in his lower limps legs and feet that is , is good because if you drybush a bit more with a light brown or grey it will be instant dust effect....i love your tutorial!! also the chect eagle i tend to find that worn brushes with long points do the trick because they can get in there and paint from afar and if i make a mistake and touch something else then that is more easily fixed ..
Good job mate, you made it look easy!
They will look great on the table ✌️
Excellent video.
I don't paint chest eagles on rank and file troops - there's no point. In my mind, the rank and file Space Marines don't get highlighted armor details until they become sergeants or something like that. That's waht I'm doing on my Primaris Deathwatch right now. Saves so much time! Good stuff in this video.
You're a braver man than I! I don't think I could entirely skip the eagles... highlights, for sure - you should have seen my old Iron Hands - but the eagles gotta have a little something something or I get twitchy! 😅
thanks for the video!
I would love to see you paint red scorpions! Thank you for the new video
This is ace! I hope you revisit some Tyranid fleets too! :D
Great vid, great result! I am new to this and I was wondering if you generally add water to you paint since you only mentioned once doing so
I'm still waiting for a good HH era black Dark Angel :D But this is pretty useful.
Man, this is just what I needed to see. I don't have any underhive ash though, any suggestions on an equivalent or something I could use in its place?
This looks great and it's so straightfoward and simple! I have struggled with my Dark Angels, they always feel a little darker than I want. I wonder if undercoating with a brighter primer like grey or white would brighten things up even more? Or would that complicate the process too much to be worth it? Thanks for the great tutorial as always.
Starting from a grey might give a slightly lighter finish, but if you want them to be brighter it's probably worth just beginning from a brighter shade of green. Waaagh Flesh is a similarly rich green, but with a couple shades you could knock it back so it looked more Dark Angels-ish? It's all according to taste!
Vallejo do a colour called verde obscura 72.028 that's slightly lighter, great for dark angels
Sooo I love this because I absolutely love green armor. Could I convince you to do a Salamander?? It’s my favorite chapter!!
I've done Salamanders a couple of times - modern green and Heresy era. 😅
The thing that gives me the most problems is the eyes
Your videos are great, but just a suggestion that you could use a brighter light, or maybe to adjust the brightness on your camera so its easier for us to see at home.
How would you go about adding battle damage to these? The normal dark brown plus a light green?
Yeah, essentially the same. I might use Straken Green or Elysian Green for the lighter chipping.
Not tempted to just blast it with Renegade Green spray from Colour Forge? It's their colour match for Caliban Green. Model is 90% done in 20 seconds!
I can't get it in Germany, so it's no good to me. 😅
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio ah bummer! Can't recommend them enough. Worth a trip to stock up on some lolz
Would Chaos Black from Citadel work for a Primer?
Hi! Sorry for the oot question, but Im a long time painter and new to 3d printing. Ive noticed all your printed models come out amazingly. I now have enough money to spend on a 3d printer, which one do you use? Would you recommend an even better one? Im a bit of a detail freak lol
If you're comfortable working with resin and have a space to keep a machine, the Elegoo Mars line are a good choice. I've had the original Mars, a Mars 2 Pro, and now a Mars 3. They're reliable, easy to use, and give good results.
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio thank you very much for your advice!
Dry brushing: You can cut down on the chalkiness by having a slightly damp brush. The GW way of dry brushing by having a bone-dry brush and removing as much paint as possible is a bit antiquated. Also, all of the dry paints I've purchased from GW with the exception of Ryza rust have been dry to the point that they were actually rubbery and useless. Not a good product in my opinion. It takes practice, so I recommend working on a test model before trying the damp brush technique out on an army model.