Came across this while looking for how to straighten my bent hydraulic rod. I used your same idea to fill the swivel joints on a Series 2A Land Rover years back. Works a treat, so good luck to you, should get a few more years no problem.
I used JB Weld to fill 4 deep scores made by the wrist pin in the cylinder walls after total piston destruction. I used a propane bottle torch to burn out any oil first. The I used the acetone. I finished up the "repair" the same way you did and slammed the engine back together. I put 15,000 miles on that engine without burning a drop of oil. I believe the repaire would have lasted much longer than that. Upon the teardown of the engine, due to a different piston shaddering. I found the JB Weld was still very much in tact and no signs of degradation. I reasonably suspect since the JB Weld was well below the combustion chamber. And well above any point of prolonged oil exposure. Would be the largest contributing factors of its success. Also the cylinder was not broken. Which would have caused the repair to fail in a short period of time. Oh, just for reference sake. The engine was a 4.0L and is still currently installed in my 2003 Jeep. The piston skirts are known for breaking off around 225,000 miles. After the second piston exploded. I completely rebuilt the engine. And I had the cylinders cut out and replaced too. So unfortunately I cannot see how long the JB Weld would have lasted. Sorry. Thanks.
Cool! I've done that same repair on hit and miss engine cylinders, but didn't know how well it would hold up in a modern engine. glad you had luck with it.
Ya JB Weld is pretty impressive. I JB Welded a non-fouler into the head of a 2 cylinder Wisconsin once. It had no threads in one of the spark plug holes. I cut diagonal grooves into the hole with a hacksaw. Spacing them about the width of 2 saw blades. Just so the JB Weld had something to grab a hold of. That was 5 years ago with regular use. Still running strong...
I watch the video on how to straighten a cylinder shaft I used your technic on a servo 8000 log loader stabilizer it has 20 degree bend it worked well a bit scary but take your time and it works saved me 900.00 dollars.
I bought a 1966 ck 530 188 case Diesel Backhoe for $2500.00 I had the same problem like you got going but I don't have nicks I've got rust spots I'm going to wire brush those spots and rubs some hard grease on the chrome rod
Solder to fill in a piston rod? interesting. how do you get the solder to stick? i would think you would need to get the rod pretty hot to let the solder stick.
just use some of that liquid acid they use for soldering wipe it off with a clean rag a couple of times and put some paste on it sticks real good,solder sticks really good to clean iron ,might have some trouble though if there is rust in the spot from old damage. but you scrape it before hand with the tip of an old knife it should work
Devcon makes a metal rich epoxy that repairs damaged shafts very well. Keith Fenner has some great videos on here on how to straighten bent shafts to a very high standard.
Hi everyone! Can I take the other end of my Ford backhoes cylinder off?? I have 60`s 4500 backhoe. I was unlucky and stupid enough and got the crawl-cylinder rod to bend pretty badly. Wise move might have been to just buy a new cylinder, because in my country inch-measured repairs just don´t exist. Well apparently I am not very wise man. I got a new straight rod from a local one of a kind Ford backhoe -lunatic (great guy!) and other parts (I don´t know english terms to them) were made (turned) just for me. (The end price wasn`t that gigantic.) The problem is that also the tube got hit in the accident. There are few scratches inside. I planned to "JB-weld" them. Unlucky enough, the scratches are in the "deep end" of the tube. Am I able to take that end off of the tube??? It would be very much easier to do the job from that end. Thank you for your reply (anyone who knows the answer, is welcome to give advice:)
@@TqSNv9R0iG5Ckxew Hi, yes I got it working just fine. Some wise man warned me the possible results of putting JB-weld or other stuff there (it getting off of cylinder wall and ending to get in hydraulic system). So all I did to it was that I honed the sylinder with the 20€ market hone so that the scratches won´t harm the piston sealings. I actually ended up putting that cylinder to my newer 4550 because in THAT mahcine the rod from the crawl cylinder BROKE IN HALF (from the piston nut thread end). I did also get the other rod fixed, but the older cylnder is still on that 4550 and is working fine.
And btw, I wasn´t referring to this video or themadmailler JB-welding his rod - i´m sure that was the best he could do to his rod. In my case the scenario was that the scratches were (are) inside the cylinder so they were (are) way harder to clean, fill and file/sand AND those scratches actually don´t matter much as long as the surface is honed properly.
@@leonardotheturtle6711 Thanks for the warning. I will reconsider using JB-Weld now. I am also embarrassed to admit that I only considered the damage to my hydraulic rod and not the damage to the unseen cylinder wall. Probably because it's not visible. I will have to take a closer look once I get it apart. Thanks again for your advice! It can be a challenge to keep these older machines running!
Time flies.. I sold the 4550 to my friend, and he has done some nice upgrades to it, and the cylinder we are referring here is still in use on that machine and working fine. I have the older 4500 still laying on my yard and I'm wanting to make a powerful snow machine from it, but sadly I might not have enough time to do it. I have collected a bunch of fine "new" parts for it, but everything is still deassembled. We'll see... Did yours come back to live?
Technically no, but yesterday i had enough time to edit not one, but two vids! For example i still have two more videos that are ready to go but need editing, and they won't see youtube for at least another couple days.
Thanks! This hoe is still sitting right were it was in this video. Projects changed, so who knows what i'll do with this. Attach it to something, but i don't know what!
Came across this while looking for how to straighten my bent hydraulic rod. I used your same idea to fill the swivel joints on a Series 2A Land Rover years back. Works a treat, so good luck to you, should get a few more years no problem.
Thanks for watching!
I used JB Weld to fill 4 deep scores made by the wrist pin in the cylinder walls after total piston destruction. I used a propane bottle torch to burn out any oil first. The I used the acetone. I finished up the "repair" the same way you did and slammed the engine back together. I put 15,000 miles on that engine without burning a drop of oil. I believe the repaire would have lasted much longer than that. Upon the teardown of the engine, due to a different piston shaddering. I found the JB Weld was still very much in tact and no signs of degradation. I reasonably suspect since the JB Weld was well below the combustion chamber. And well above any point of prolonged oil exposure. Would be the largest contributing factors of its success. Also the cylinder was not broken. Which would have caused the repair to fail in a short period of time. Oh, just for reference sake. The engine was a 4.0L and is still currently installed in my 2003 Jeep. The piston skirts are known for breaking off around 225,000 miles. After the second piston exploded. I completely rebuilt the engine. And I had the cylinders cut out and replaced too. So unfortunately I cannot see how long the JB Weld would have lasted. Sorry.
Thanks.
Cool! I've done that same repair on hit and miss engine cylinders, but didn't know how well it would hold up in a modern engine. glad you had luck with it.
Ya JB Weld is pretty impressive. I JB Welded a non-fouler into the head of a 2 cylinder Wisconsin once. It had no threads in one of the spark plug holes. I cut diagonal grooves into the hole with a hacksaw. Spacing them about the width of 2 saw blades. Just so the JB Weld had something to grab a hold of. That was 5 years ago with regular use. Still running strong...
awesome! Only downside is that you need to pull the head to clean the sparkplug. ;)
That's why I JB Welded a non-fouler into the head. Then the spark plug threaded into that.
Missed that part. Sounds good!
I watch the video on how to straighten a cylinder shaft I used your technic on a servo 8000 log loader stabilizer it has 20 degree bend it worked well a bit scary but take your time and it works saved me 900.00 dollars.
glad to hear it!
I bought a 1966 ck 530 188 case Diesel Backhoe for $2500.00 I had the same problem like you got going but I don't have nicks I've got rust spots I'm going to wire brush those spots and rubs some hard grease on the chrome rod
Great idea! Thank you!!
one more use for JB weld ,Iv used solder before but unless I'm in a rush Ill try this
Solder to fill in a piston rod? interesting. how do you get the solder to stick? i would think you would need to get the rod pretty hot to let the solder stick.
just use some of that liquid acid they use for soldering wipe it off with a clean rag a couple of times and put some paste on it sticks real good,solder sticks really good to clean iron ,might have some trouble though if there is rust in the spot from old damage. but you scrape it before hand with the tip of an old knife it should work
Interesting. I'll have to try that next time. Thanks for the tip!
Devcon makes a metal rich epoxy that repairs damaged shafts very well. Keith Fenner has some great videos on here on how to straighten bent shafts to a very high standard.
Yes i learned something..thanks
thank you for you're video
I'm going to tray this on a my pitted Western Snow Plow cylinder. I Can't find a new one easily.
It should work for you! also, try surplus center.com for cheap hydraulic parts.
Hi everyone! Can I take the other end of my Ford backhoes cylinder off??
I have 60`s 4500 backhoe. I was unlucky and stupid enough and got the crawl-cylinder rod to bend pretty badly. Wise move might have been to just buy a new cylinder, because in my country inch-measured repairs just don´t exist. Well apparently I am not very wise man. I got a new straight rod from a local one of a kind Ford backhoe -lunatic (great guy!) and other parts (I don´t know english terms to them) were made (turned) just for me. (The end price wasn`t that gigantic.)
The problem is that also the tube got hit in the accident. There are few scratches inside. I planned to "JB-weld" them. Unlucky enough, the scratches are in the "deep end" of the tube. Am I able to take that end off of the tube??? It would be very much easier to do the job from that end.
Thank you for your reply (anyone who knows the answer, is welcome to give advice:)
I also own a 4500 backhoe.
Were you able to fix yours?
@@TqSNv9R0iG5Ckxew Hi, yes I got it working just fine. Some wise man warned me the possible results of putting JB-weld or other stuff there (it getting off of cylinder wall and ending to get in hydraulic system). So all I did to it was that I honed the sylinder with the 20€ market hone so that the scratches won´t harm the piston sealings. I actually ended up putting that cylinder to my newer 4550 because in THAT mahcine the rod from the crawl cylinder BROKE IN HALF (from the piston nut thread end). I did also get the other rod fixed, but the older cylnder is still on that 4550 and is working fine.
And btw, I wasn´t referring to this video or themadmailler JB-welding his rod - i´m sure that was the best he could do to his rod. In my case the scenario was that the scratches were (are) inside the cylinder so they were (are) way harder to clean, fill and file/sand AND those scratches actually don´t matter much as long as the surface is honed properly.
@@leonardotheturtle6711
Thanks for the warning. I will reconsider using JB-Weld now. I am also embarrassed to admit that I only considered the damage to my hydraulic rod and not the damage to the unseen cylinder wall. Probably because it's not visible. I will have to take a closer look once I get it apart. Thanks again for your advice! It can be a challenge to keep these older machines running!
Time flies.. I sold the 4550 to my friend, and he has done some nice upgrades to it, and the cylinder we are referring here is still in use on that machine and working fine. I have the older 4500 still laying on my yard and I'm wanting to make a powerful snow machine from it, but sadly I might not have enough time to do it. I have collected a bunch of fine "new" parts for it, but everything is still deassembled. We'll see... Did yours come back to live?
Good job
2 in a day?! Awesome!!!
Technically no, but yesterday i had enough time to edit not one, but two vids! For example i still have two more videos that are ready to go but need editing, and they won't see youtube for at least another couple days.
Sir which type of jb weld are you using ?
Any specific name ?
Looks pretty good. Any use on it yet? How is it holding up?
still laying on the ground! this project got sidelined for a couple reasons, but i'll get back to it eventually. Stay tuned!
I think this is a bad idea. Once the epoxy breaks free you will have much bigger problems!
i agree
i agree
If you clean the rust off very thoroughly first, it will never come loose. A good repair
........don't try to file around the ram.....rock the file so you don't make flat spots....
Try watching the entire video before commenting
Don’t fall what he’s doing the jb weld will pop off in the cylinder
Nice job. How's that seal holding up?
Thanks! This hoe is still sitting right were it was in this video. Projects changed, so who knows what i'll do with this. Attach it to something, but i don't know what!
@@themadmailler did the jb welds come out yet?
Any update?
what kind of spray was that? and also want to know about the paste.... please let me know its emargency......
thanks in advance
Wd40 spray.... i guess in other words its cold weld paste
How did it hold up I'm just curious
Never ended up putting it on!
Hi, chemical metal on this restore, anyone try thath?
Thanks.
the video shows chemical metal, yes it is used in this video
looking goog but not usefull