F-150 Starkey Auxiliary Reverse Lighting Kit With Lights/Wiring/Switch 2009-2016 Installation
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- čas přidán 13. 07. 2024
- Freddy shows you how to install this Starkey Auxiliary Reverse Lighting Kit with Lights, Wiring and Switch on your 2009-2016 F-150.
Purchase Product Here:
www.cjponyparts.com/starkey-au...
Enhancing your F-150 with this astonishing reverse lighting kit from Starkey is going to greatly improve your rear viewing during the night, even when your truck is turned off!
Featuring LED lighting that is vastly superior to traditional bulbs with their more luminous power, energy efficiency and extended lifespan.
For your custom needs, this kit can be wired to function when the truck is placed into reverse or when activated by the included OEM-stylized interior switch.
You won't have to worry about cutting any factory wiring, this two to three hour simple installation is going to get your 2009-2016 F-150 back on the road in no time!
Check out more F-150 Lighting parts from CJ's here:
www.cjponyparts.com/f-150-ele...
Check out more Starkey parts from CJ's here:
www.cjponyparts.com/starkey/c...
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I am high right now, and this was cool. Went on amazon and ended up buying fish tank lights.....they were super cool.
🤤🤤🤣🤣
Not trying to bash your work man, I worked at a car audio install shop for a few years and they had very high install standards, very high. This is only an offering of constructive criticism: 1) I would have drilled a new hole through the firewall to run the main power wire thru, out in a plastic grommet and sealed the hole to prevent water from entering the cab, thus soaking the jute under the carpet and causing mold and mildew problems in the cab. Also, I have heard too many horror stories of installers cutting through the vehicle's wire harness grommet and either cutting a wire (that later has to be repaired by the dealership that is extremely expensive) or they nicking the wire thus allowing moisture to then enter the wire causing corrosion in the wire in time, thus causing future expensive and avoidable electrical repairs to be performed on the vehicle. Also if the vehicle is still under warranty, that type of firewall penetration you performed (thru the vehicles wire harness grommet) more than likely (we all know how much dealerships love to find any reason to void a warranty if there are any aftermarket upgrades done to the vehicle) give them an easy reason to void the warranty. 2) T-Taps are the worst way to splice into a wire. You used t-taps to grab the reverse wire at the factory 7-way trailer harness. T-Taps are extremely unreliable and are always an open invitation to wire corrosion. If that is a coastal truck or a truck up north where they salt the roads, that wire and wire connection won't last a year without turning all green inside. It doesn't matter if you tape TF out of it, it WILL fail in time. Yet another wire corrosion problem. 3) I also noticed was that there was a lot of wire left that was bundled up and zip tied at the receiver, why not cut the extraneous length out, solder and heat shrink the wire back together for a cleaner install. You would never see the heat shrink for the split loom. 4) Dude I gotta say that I think you kinda butchered the under dash piece, cutting that hole for the light switch. I could see the unevenness of the edges of the hole and the extra radius in the corners of the hole after you put the switch in. Those can be a little tricky, but with a little practice and the right tool (not a cutting wheel to cut the hole) you can get it down pretty good. Again, not trying to bash you, just a few points to improve on. Be well!
Gidday David Keith, I am currently looking for a good installer to fit two lights similar to these on my ute (pickup) here in New Zealand. Would you recommend running a seperate loom as in this video or do you think it would be acceptable to tap into the trucks existing reverse light system? The lights are only required for reversing at night, I do not have any need to operate them independantly of that. The truck is brand new and for the reasons you mentioned around warranty I am very hesitant to go cutting through the firewall adding new wiring in case of voiding my warranty. It is easy to remove the two lights if there is an electrical issue without there being any obvious modifications having been performed. What are your thoughts?
Cheers John
you just typed like a whole damn book and no body gives a fuck about what you have to say
David Keith. I had the same thoughts about #1 and #4. With 4 he might have gotten away with it if it was sanded down flush. You wouldn't see any of the hole had it been flush.
I appreciate the video and AM NOT bashing him in any way. I'm looking to do this on my F-150 and will use instruction where ever I find it. You ask 10 different people and they will give you 20 different ways to do it.
Poking a hole through the rubber grommet not really that big of a deal unless you're driving through deep water that's going over the hood or power washing the engine bay then there might be an issue. Also you can tell where the main wiring harness is going through the grommet you poke a hole far a way as possible if you're poking directly where the wiring harness is then ya you can have an issue lol.
@@Steven91992 All respect, it appears you either didn’t read my comment or can’t understand my points. Your points may hold some validity, however it still stands as one weak link in a very weak chain of executed steps in this install, all of which can be vastly improved upon. Good luck to you and your customers sir.
This is really cool. I will do this to my truck one day. Thanks for the video!
Those are the anti-tailgaters lights. Boy do I need those!
Finally!!! A how to video!! Great job and explains the process well…
Ur the onlyguy on utube that shows how wire lights on a f150 I have seen other people install that. Stuff but not everything
After watching ur video I wired mine to the reverse light an I think that takes to much power
good job man thanks a lot for the video..
I ran a large wire to the rear to have power at all times for a fuel pump when hauling diesel to tractors, sprayer, etc. I could just tap the backup lights and use a relay to power aux back up lights that would come on any time you were in reverse.
yall should install some Rough Country X5 LED Light Bars
Where did you run the wires in the engine bay?
in place of that wire clip on the gray for back up to turn them on , that will cause a problem in a while due to water getting in , look on line for waterproof hooks up
I use car quest STP 525
yes will have to cut that wire
What are the unused wires that plug into the back of plastic trim? It’s an 8prong connector, I would like to use that as accessory and constant power, is that possible?
Nice..does it shut your backup sensors off when backing up?
Hi i need that wiring kit do you ship to Aus? Thanks
I wish I could find just the wiring harness with the relay. I am good at wiring. But hate relays and they always confuse me. I already have lights in my bumper wired to an aux switch, but I would love to tap into the reverse wire to get them to come on when backing without having to worry about back feeding into the truck when they are manually on.
Where can I get just the wiring harness without the lights?
It looks like there's a designated hose on the grommet for feeding extra wires.
Rev heads it is he just ignored it
Why did you leave all that flashing behind the switch. Won't that interfere with the switch mounting securely in the hole. At 9:36
Do these lights mess up the reverse sensors at all?
Where did you buy the whole kit?
Hey Freddy, great video. Thanks for uploading it. This is exactly what I'm wanting to do with my Platinum. However, I'm looking for flush mount pods to put in the bumper. I'm still wanting the switched option also. Is there a set of flush mount pods out there that come with the wiring harness to do this? Possibly a little brighter than these? Thanks!
rigid industries
can you run them still without wire tapping into the trailer harness?
Yes then it would only operate with the switch, not reverse lights.
I understand the switch allows you to turn the lights on without the truck in reverse. But does the switch have to be in the on position when you are in reverse for the lights to go on? Or will the lights always be on since you tapped into the reverse light wire?
The switch does not have to be on for the lights to work with the reverse lights. You only use the switch for when the truck is not in reverse.
should be set up to be triggered separately both ways, if the wiring harness is configured with common sense.
where can I buy just that relay?
If you off road this is not a good place to put them 2nd time I destroy them off roading when I bottom out the rear end.
So are there two t taps on that one wire? One for each light or...(On the trailer harness)
Correct
Is there something to use to cover where the t taps from water/mud ect
why over complicate with a wiring harness? just tap into your trailers wiring harness. other then if you want to blind a bumper humper.
If you just tapped into the trailer harness it's possible you could over load the the system and blow a fuse, or relay. Also with running it's own dedicated harness you can turn it on and off independently from other systems.
Trailer wiring harnesses don't include the back-up light, but your thought is a good one, I mounted driving lights under my rear bumper on my F150 and tapped into the back-up lights in the tail lights, when I put my truck in reverse they come on, I also have them pointed out so they shine on the edges of a driveway when I'm backing up. I haven't blown any fuses in the 5 years I've had them.
I'm a ASE tech and yes they do on it's own protected circuit. I tapped mine into the trailer harness and had zero problems out of it. The reverse lights are on for a short period unlike head light so it doesn't have time to overload a circuit if it even does. I turned on my reverse and left it for 15 min with zero overheating. Led lights use low amps so your good to go. 7 pin trailer plug factory the center plug is reverse light on all makes and models....
@@thomasmarquez6790 what is the best way to tap into the reverse wire in the trailer harness? Someone made a comment about the T-tap method shown on this install. I want the best way that will hold up over time.
Thanks in advance.
@@petertimpson9378 Solder and heat shrink is the best connection, but it can be very tricky to solder above your head while you are lying on the floor with very little wire to work with.
21/64 drill bit?
point those lights out a little more, so at night when they're on you can see where they are shining in the door mirrors, they will show you the edges of a driveway, just pointing them straight back where the tailgate blocks your view won't help much, unless you have a back-up camera......
With them pointed straight back you can still see the lights with your mirrors, but we did angle them out just a little for a wider views and the truck does have a backup camera.
I will never go without them again, its so much easier to back up when you can see where your going !
Agreed, they're definitely a game changer!
Fuuuuuuuuck only thing I'm missing is my safety glasses can I still complete this job?
Nice mod but switch mount looks kind of rough.
It’s an Alan key
230$?!?! Fuck that😂
Why the fu** am I nervous to throw these on smfh
Lights will be beat by rocks in that location. Unless its a pavement princess
Nice to know the stock F150 switch is made in KOREA!! Hahaha
Unfortunately a lot of parts on American vehicles are not American made.
why wouldn't you just flush mount them in the bumper? would look a lot cleaner.
This is just the way we chose to install, you can install them however you would like.
You ever make a hole in the trim piece like that, the owner should have punched you in the mouth. Hack job!
The placement looks awful
That's where it's designed to go.
@@CJBroncoF150 design to go yet you drilled holes in the bumper...so placement was on you!
@@CJBroncoF150 lmao