How to Replace the Rear Differential Bushings on a Mazda CX9

How to replace the rear subframe bushings for the differential on a Mazda CX-9 AWD. This is a 2015 model, so this applies to the first generation but a similar procedure can be applied to other generations as well as other SUV models from Mazda. Failing bushings will cause your vehicle to vibrate during acceleration or cornering during a takeoff. Unfortunately Mazda does not carry the parts, they want to sell you a whole new subframe instead. The parts are available through an aftermarket supplier, I have seen upgraded bushing options online too. #oemtools #mazdacx9 #mazda
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Tools/Supplies Needed:
-dye grinder
-drum sander
-carbide burr bit
-new bushings
-brass hammer
-hammer
-brass bar
-socket or pipe
-Bessey clamp
Procedure:
First is driving the rear of the vehicle on ramps for more room. Drop the spare tire using the supplied tools in the trunk.
Using a 17mm socket with a ratchet, remove the two nuts and washers. Using a hacksaw, cut the webbing out of the bushings so we can remove the centers.
I tried different methods to remove the old bushings with no luck. A hammer and chisel or a punch. And using a hacksaw blade to cut the outer front. Then I tried an air hammer, but it didn’t work.
The best option I found was using a die grinder with a burr bit to cut the outer ring. You don’t need to cut it all the way through, but a majority of the way it can separate and the ring will from the tension which makes it easy to remove.
I did put the ring forward and this will help clean the exposed hole as it may be filled with rust. Pull the ring out from the spare tire side as shown here. Pliers work great for assisting in the removal. Remove the other ring. Make note of the orientation of the bushing, the new replacement will need to be installed in the same position.
Using a drum sander with the dye grinder, clean the holes. Remove any rust or debris so the new bushings don’t have any binging with the installation.
I did try a test fit with the new bushings and there is no way to install these as there’s too much of an interference fit. Meaning that they’re far too large for the holes. I have seen some posts online also complaining about this issue.
I have read about people grinding these down but by far the best way is turning these down in a lathe. They were trued up using a dial indicator within 0.005”, and then the diameter was brought down by 0.040” from the original measurement.
Once the one was turned down, I was able to hammer it into the hole. Make sure it’s in the right orientation. This is a tight fit and should be so it doesn’t have any movement when everything is back together. I used a brass hammer to start it, this is softer than the outer ring and will not cause any damage. The center stud for the differential can be adjusted back to a jack to move it up or down, ensuring that the bushing is going in correctly. Make sure you go around the perimeter of the bushing and not in one spot so the bushing is pushed in evenly.
A hammer with a brass bar can be used to push it in flush to this side of the subframe.
Next was using a Bessey clamp with ball joint press attachments. These have an insane amount of clamping force so they’re great for pressing in bushings. When it’s clamped in place, you can hit the threaded rod with a hammer to help relieve some tension by driving that bushing in. Then compress the clamp again and repeat.
You can make some small adjustments using the outer ring from the ball joint kit and a hammer. The bushing needs to be almost flush with the other side. The same position of depth as the old bushing.
Then the same process is done with the other bushing. First it’s hammered in and then pressed in after.
Make sure those bushings are properly in place, then reinstalling those washers and tightening up the nuts with a 17mm deep socket and ratchet.
Put the spare tire back into place.
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