How to Upgrade the Clutch Pedal Assembly
Vložit
- čas přidán 9. 07. 2024
- In this video I upgrade the clutch peddle assembly by adding a new clutch pedal, and also replacing the factory bushings with a roller bearing setup.
Clutch Pedal - from MDL, part number MD-402-6566M-C
Roller Bearing Kit - from CalPonyCars, part number C5ZZ-2478RB
The car is a 1966 Mustang Fastback with a factory V8 and T5 transmission.
Shot with GoPro Hero 8 with the Media Mod, edited on Davinci Resolve 17.
Credit for the music in the video:
::::::::::::::::::::
Epidemic Sound
Try it today! www.epidemicsound.com/referra...
::::::::::::::::::::
#Mustang
#1966
#Fastback - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Another excellent tutorial. I'm envious of your filming and editing skills! Tip for others...On the swaged in lead bushing, drill out the flats of the swage and the bushing will punch right out.
Thanks! I wish there was some fancy editing, but all I'm really doing is trying to cut out the boring stuff or parts that don't help the project. :)
Great video, Thanks Andy
Glad you enjoyed it
Solid video dude!
Awesome, thanks!
Nice mod. I bet it is going to make a big difference. I liked the tip of "shortening' the brake pedal.
Thanks! Sometime the tips I put in my videos are from other people's videos, so it's tough to take credit for everything. :)
I’ve removed the pedal assembly a couple of times to work on the brake and clutch pedals. Not my favorite thing to do. I have a question about yours: Does your clutch set up need a clutch pedal assist spring?
No spring required for the the cable conversion. :)
What if you have a brake booster in addition to the master cylinder and want to add a clutch and manual transmission?
The brake booster is on the engine side of the firewall, so it has no bearing on the pedal count inside the car. However, the issue may be with the type of clutch engagement you choose. You can choose between Z-bar, cable, and hydraulic actuation, and depending on the size of the booster, it may force your decision with how you need to actuate the clutch. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel thanks. Considering cable clutch based on your videos. I was thinking more about drilling the clutch wire through the firewall and if the cable will clear the booster’s height w/o interference.
@@TAKAFOOMI That's a good concern. Give the Boys at MDL a call, they'll know exactly how the Cable will fit with the Brake Booster. :)
How tight does that nut need to be that holds the pedals together need to be?
Tight enough to not fall off. 😁
What is the spacing do you have between the two pedals. Mine is pretty close. I’m thinking the MT brake pedal is formed differently.
Sorry brotha, I'm not sure of what you are asking.
@@AndyKruseChannel
What width do you have between the clutch and pedal pads. Looks like min is only about an inch. Seems to be pretty close for shifting.
@@ronaldlawrimore4838 Roughly the same as you. The end results that I have here are very close to the actual MT pedals which I should have just purchased to begin with. :)
Andy i Installed my clutch pedal from kit my brake pedal is lower then the clutch pedal did you have this issue?
Yes I did. I ended up making a custom length pushrod for the brake pedal to bring out. There are some adjustable units on the market, but I like making things so I bought some parts form my local hardware store and made it myself. Depending on how crafty you are, you could do the same. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel thanks !
Maybe you should "upgrade" to candlelight and firewood for heat in your house while you are at it.
Can't, need the money for Mustang parts.
@@AndyKruseChannel There goes a missed opportunity.
cable clutch? hmmm interesting... I am guessing you are not using long tube headers like in the previous project... I remember You had to buy a hydraulic clutch because it burn the cable.
Correct, the headers are the JBA Shorties, which easily clear any clutch mechanism one would go with. :)