1965 Johnson FD-19 18hp Outboard Motor, First run using tiller control.
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- čas přidán 15. 09. 2023
- 1959 18hp Johnson with a fresh full service tune up and a 1969 Evinrude 25hp cylinder head. The head gives extra high compression. This motor seems to hang right with the later 20hp Johnson which is also a 22c.i. motor. It is a very nice, smooth, and strong runner. It will get a lot of regular use.
That thing rips!
Sounds great.
It's a good, strong one. Glad to have it in my collection. Thanks for watching!
Nice running motor
Thank you and thanks for watching!
Great speed out of it. Another fine mechanical restoration my friend
Thank you, David. Very pleased with this one. I believe I will do some cosmetics on this one too. Not going to put the money and effort into making it perfect since it's a user, but I'll make it look a bit better. This motor will get used plenty. Thanks for watching!
@oldjohnnyrude8404 Although it is fun to show up at the ramp with an old motor looking almost new, and get the attention of others. I'm starting to use even my restored motors. Just take care of them. You've got a keeper there though!
@@davidparlee3102 Yeah, I would use my restored motors too. I enjoy running them too much to not use them. That's one of the reasons I don't do a lot of cosmetics. When I do, they are often not really factory correct. I appreciate the work that goes into making them really right. For my users with fiberglass covers, if the cover is bad, I'll do whatever and if I find a nice cover sometime later that is right for the motor I'll buy it. I guess I'm more likely to do a proper restore on an aluminum cowl motor than fiberglass.
@oldjohnnyrude8404 I hear you on the fiberglass vs metal. My FD-20 I restored is not quite the circle color. BRP paint yes, but as I recall not for that year. Few would know.
Great job! Thanks for the ride along👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍
Thank you! This motor turned out wonderfully. I really enjoy running this one. Glad you enjoyed the ride along. Thanks for watching!
Wow almost 25 mph.. strong engine
I saw 25.2 as a top today. It was running 24.6-25.0 consistently. It's a great runner. Thus one is going to get some time on the boat. It's such a joy to run. Thanks for watching!
Very good running motor thanks for the video take care.
Thank you and thanks for watching!
Beautiful running motor!
Thank you and thanks for watching!
Gee whiz what a smooth and fast running Johnny Rude II. She runs very strong from the looks of it! Thanks Ben! That one is a great one! Mark in Iowa.
This one turned out great. It is a favorite of mine to run now. It is smooth, strong , and fast. It's gonna be around for a long time. Thanks for watching, Mark!
Sick videos
Thank you and thanks for watching!
She's a runner for sure. Perfect engine for everyday use, nice older model with no recirc crap so it idles real nice
It really is a perfect regular runner and it will see plenty of transom time with me. It idles beautifully and starts very easily when the low speed is dialed in right. I had it a little rich today when I ran it for this video. Still not bad, but it when all is right the kickover from pulling it through one compression stroke will start it. Excellent runner and performer. Of course, it won't do it every time and it seems to get cameras shy about those starts but it really is amazing. Thanks for watching!
Actually, recirc systems were on OMC motors way back into at least the 50's..........
Tr@@mikedurhan9941 So true, but mainly to pull excess fuel/oil from the bottom to lube the top bearing/bushing. Those external recirc systems started in the late 60-70s when the overboard drains disappeared. Just. seems like this system created an imbalance between the top and bottom cylinder on these 22CI engines. Adjust the low speed needle so it idles nice and smooth and it spits lean, so you have to leave it a tad rich....
@@mikedurhan9941 Fleetwin is referring to the crankcase precipitate recirculation system on the powerhead, not the water recirculation cooling system. I'm not aware of any OMC motors with this crankcase recirculation feature that date back to the 1950s.
Well, when I look at my 1957-58 Johnson 18 powerheads, I see hard lines from the bottom bearing area to the top. They carried excess fuel that congregated there to the upper bearing area, and we were taught in OMC school that this was the "recirculation system". Maybe I'm not understanding something here. If so, I apologize.@@oldjohnnyrude8404
A lot of work but well worth it.
It was a bit of work, but definitely well worth it. This is one of those motors that will see a lot of regular use. Thanks for watching!
Uhuuuuu... show, top!
Thanks for watching!
great channel - glad I found it! Quick question - will the cowl of a 1953 25hp Johnson fit on a 1955 25hp Johnson?
Thank you! I'm glad you found it as well. No, the 1955 25hp Johnson is the first year for the "up-and-off" hinged cowl. It has two buckles on the sides and lifts up from the rear. Once open, it pops off forward. Previous years (1951-1954) of the Johnson RD have a two piece cowl that screws together and is screwed to the cowl mounts on the powerhead from each side. Thanks for watching!
I'm in my sixties born and raised on the Ottawa river and the Maumee bay in point place anyway I really enjoy your videos and I am into the older motors however not being much of a mechanic I was wondering what is involved in putting an electric start on my 71 25tiller super sport model (according to the numbers lol) tiller pull start only evenrude?!
It really runs well but I'm just too crippled to be pulling it lol!
Thank you! It's great to hear you enjoy my videos. If all you are looking to add to your motor is electric start and no electric choke, it is fairly straightforward although not necessarily inexpensive. Your motor, being a '71, should already have the ring gear on the flywheel. The starter bracket is still available new, but probably available used on Ebay or something for less money. The starter is also still available. The starter bracket for the electric starter replaces one of the side brackets that holds the rewind starter on top. The starter mount ms to the bracket and the bracket mounts to the motor. From there it is just the wiring. A solenoid can be mounted under the hood or in a box in the boat. I made a battery/start box with a motorcycle battery, a solenoid, and a button switch wired to a couple bolts for battery cable connection terminals. That really simplifies the wiring on the motor as you then only need the cables from the starter to be run out so they may be connected to your start box. The bracket part number is 0317328. I believe it was superceded by 0126256. You may do some looking and be able to find something online for a reasonable price. I hope this helps. Good luck with being able to continue to run your motor. Be safe and have fun. Thanks for watching!
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 thank you for the information brother!
@@bernardyancy8552 You're very welcome!
Hi I have a 75 johnson 25, can we chat about getting some work done? Thanks, I have been watching your videos for some time now and I have enjoyed them
Great to hear you have enjoyed my videos. Thanks for watching! Send me a message at bbreitner at hotmail dot com and we can discuss what you are looking to get done.
Hey Johnny, I was wondering if you've ever run across a 1975 Evinrude 15 HP? I have one, but the thing seems to have issues starting even with new sparkplugs.
I have run across a couple. I tuned one up for someone a couple years ago and I own one as well. Mine has a broken rod in the powerhead so it needs a little TLC. Have you ever done a tune up on it? The Low-tension magneto is kind of finicky. Some people have better luck with NGK plugs with that ignition system. They're fussy when things start to wear out. Grounds need to be good and clean, points need to be clean, condensers need to be in spec and of the coils crack they can leak voltage to ground and adversely affect running. I would recommend going through the ignition. Thoroughly clean and rebuild the carburetor with a new OEM kit. Those things should greatly improve how your engine starts and runs. I hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 thanks for the advice, i plan on selling the thing due to its history and it leaving me stranded on a lake once. however i want to try to get it at least working to raise the value a bit, so thanks for the advice. thing apparently had ethanol ran through it before i got ownership and had a carb rebuild, but i dont know how true the rebuild is bc the carb looks pretty old.
@@thejediorder3586 You're welcome. The ethanol fuel alone won't hurt it, but if it sits in the carburetor during storage, that's when the trouble starts. I never trust s9meoje else's carb rebuild without having a look for myself. A cleaning of the carb and points may be all.it needs to bring it back to being reliable. Seems worth a try.
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 they also werent running the right oil or oil at all. i recently just did a basic cleaning after i got stranded, the thing wasnt dirty at all believe it or not. ill probs try rebuilding it and replacing some parts. thanks again.
@@thejediorder3586 The one I have with the broken rod got run on straight gasoline. That's bad news on a 2-stroke.
So what prop does a 25hp use?
The 22c.i. 25hp ('69-'76) uses the same prop as the 18hp and 20hp. I typically use the 9.25x11P but with a heavier load, dropping to a 9x10 or even a 9x9 can be beneficial. The 25hp needs to spin up more RPMs to make its power, so the lower pitch will allow that to happen with a heavier load. Thanks for watching, Scott!
By the mid-1960s these great motors became so ugly as compared to the 1940s-50s.
These mid 60s Johnsons were never my favorite in the way of styling. These always make me think of Dumb Donald from the Fat Albert cartoon. The hood shape reminds me of that silly pink hat he would look through. The 50s had it as.far as styling goes, hands down. Thanks for watching!