Yamaha Grizzly 450 - Tuff Torq final drive oil change
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- čas přidán 15. 06. 2016
- Another of the service procedures on a 2014 Yamaha Grizzly 450 ATV. In this video I show you the correct procedure on changing the rear final drive diff oil.
This particular model of Yamaha Grizzly was fitted with a Tuff Torq final drive which incorporates an internal wet multi-plate type braking system, technology developed withing the agricultural industry.
Its an excellent solution to the problems of brake contamination and maybe we will see this type of internal brake incorporated onto the front diff unit too (one for each drive shaft) some day...
In this short video I run through the parts required to be removed to gain access to the drain & filler bolts, how to drain the oil, the required oil specification & quantity for the unit & how to perform the re-fill procedure.
Also included are the tightening torques for all the bolts & I also include a few helpful hits & tips to help you along the way...
Any questions then just add them to the comments section & I'll get back to you as soon as I can.
Andy Mechanic! - Auta a dopravní prostředky
You have step by step helped me sort my grizzly 450 from service to steering bearing to dif oil service . Thanks from the uk
no problem Jack....pleased to be of help. Cheers Andy
Very Nice! The specifics you give are so appreciated and could save us newbies money, headaches, possibly life and limb.
Many thanks, Paul
Great videos! keep up the good work
Hey mate, where did you get the supplementary manual you mentioned?
Andy i think u overfilled. Theres a little bolt on the fill side below the big bolt and u fill till it runs out the little bolt.
Does the rear end have a spring in a 98 Yamaha Kodiak 400
Should you warm up the oil before draining by going for a short drive. Great info.
No problem, please to be of help. Yes, the oil should be warm but not at full temperature or you may burn your hand removing the sump plug & oil filter.
How to change or repair the brake sistem inside?
Do you have the part number for the oil and the part number for the front and do you have a video of the front how to drain it
Hi Andy, thanks for posting so many great videos. Could I pick your brains for what's possibly a major final drive problem? I've got a neglected (and therein lies the problem - my own doing) Yamaha Kodiak 450 2003-2006 vintage. First noticed a screeching coming from the final drive area and experienced what I describe as "mechanical braking", as in the bike would slow to a stop quickly without me pressing the brakes. I do have the mechanics manual for the bike but am at a loss as how to proceed. Can I remove the final drive to check the gears and bearings in a simple way, or would that mean major reconstruction/buying special tools which to be honest is beyond me. Is it possible to buy another final drive that would be plug & play, or again does it require specialist knowledge? I'n trying to figure out what the best/most cost effective course of action is. Many thanks, John.
+John King Hi John, I'd suggest removing the final drive. You should be able to remove the crown Wheel Cover easy enough and do a visual on crown Wheel and pinion and associated bearings for play/condition without any special tools....
Hey Andy I was wondering if you could show how to adjust the final drive brake system. I can’t find any info on it. Thanks for the awesome videos.
Did you ever find anything on this? Just bought this quad and the rear brakes don't do anything.
Hi, is it the internal wet brake Tyre rear brake inside the final drive on your ATV?
yes the entire rear brake is internal. i have the same model minus the EPS
Okay. I know the one. What's your email address?
@@AndyMechanic hey andy can u send me the same info please
REGARDS FROM MEXICO! adrian.gomezemoc@gmail.com
Good vid. Why not drill a hole in the "bash guard" for future considerations?
Great idea & if it was my ATV & not a customer's I would definatly do that :-)
Thanks for the feedback. Cheers Andy
@@AndyMechanic All the best mate!
What kinda lift do you use thanks Andy!!
Hi, it's called a 'Handy', it's air operated and Italian I think. Very popular here in New Zealand and never causes any problems....works perfectly. I purchased it second hand for NZ $700 :-)
Hey Andy, how do you as a service tech have access to all the manuals for the things you work on?
+KingJamesVL With a little patience I have managed to find 90% of service manuals I need online....for free :-)
Andy Mechanic Awesome. Thanks for the replies!
So that yamaha gear oil is basically gl-5 friction modified 80w-90? Otherwise known as gl-5 limited slip 80w-90? Don’t really feel like paying for another quart just because it says yamaha. I’ve got a few quarts of full synthetic valvoline and non synthetic generic brand gl-5 limited slip 80w-90 gear oils in the shop.
What oil do I use for the front and rear to French show when I do a change?
I'm sorry when I'm trying to say is what kind of oil. Do I use for the rear end in the front axles?
Andy looking from the Back on the left it is losing oil or leaking oil out of the differential HELP
+John Hyde Park Hi John, the fill hole is about half way up on the left looking from the rear. The drain is at the side bottom on the left also. It's not underneath. Hope this helps. If you send me an email I can send you a diagram. Cheers Andy
What happens if the bolt hole is stripped? I checked it for first time today since buying the fourwheeler. First thing was that oil was pouring out without stopping...? Not sure if it is over filled or what, of if this is normal? but it says that it should be up to brim of bolt hole, so it seems like it has alot more in there. Back to bolt. I went to tighten it up, and it just wouldn't go all the way in, and it keeps turning. It seems the bolt hole is stripped, the bolt looks fine... but I know I didn't do it because this is the first time tightening it myself. I think the person that serviced it before I got might of stripped it. It doesn't leak, but it doesn't go all the way in. Can still put a finger nail in between the bolt.
oh btw. I have a 2014 grizzly 450 eps.
+Rperley 84 okay. Firstly you need to drain the oil out as there is a possibility that water has got in. Water is heavier than oil so will sit at the bottom if the bike has been stood. Then refill with new oil to the correct level.
Also with the filler Bolt, so long as it seals it's going to work. Not ideal but an expensive fix so best leave alone, provided it's not the reason the water got in (if it did?). Also check breather pipe, may be missing or damaged - should run up to near front of bike.
Hope this helps. Cheers Andy
Okay thanks. I will have to get some oil soon. Not sure if they sell that specific kind around, but will have a look for sure. I can never seem to find all the yamaha oil/lubricants around this part of town...As for the bolt. When I first loosened it, it was all the way in if I remember correctly. But it just would not go back in all the way... Would it be wise to be put some locktite or something on the bolt near the washer? to help keep it from possibly getting water in there again and of course keeping the bolt in. I also did notice a clanking around near the rear end too, so what you said about the possibility being in there might be right... the oil just wouldn't stop draining out, so I just put the bolt back on. Water could very well be pushing it all out. At first I thought it was just unlevel ground, so I tried a flatter part of the drive way and it was still coming out just as fast. But I will change it as soon as possible... This is all new to me as well. Thank you for such a quick reply.
+Rperley 84 no problem. What you say all makes sense. Yes, some mild locktite will help but not the red stuff!
A Yamaha dealer should ship the oil to you if you give them a call.
Pleased to be of help. Cheers Andy
Andy Mechanic one question. i dont have no yamaha rear axel oil... but i do have SAE 80 gl 5 rear axle oil for motor vehicles. would it be okay to use this for now until i get some yamaha stuff? thanks again.