I've been using the clay towels from The Rag Company for years. My current one is about 4 years old now and has been used dozens and dozens of times. Since it is a fine grade clay, they will never fully replace a clay bar for vehicles that have severe contamination...but for mild to moderately contaminated vehicles they work really well. They are also useful for decontaminating ceramic coated vehicles without marring (when used and lubricated properly).
Good video Jon. I tend to use clay sponge as I find this simply easier to work with. I guess I need to try the clay mitt that I also have and see if there is any subtle difference.
I've used a clay mitt but not seen one with a wash mitt type bit. I really like the clay mitt as a weekend warrior. Easy of use and claying makes for a decent surface for polishing but again I'm someone who does it on the driveway in a day/ over the weekend.
Looks like an interesting product, think I’d wash with a noodle mit first, rinse, then use the microfibre to apply a sud coating, then flip to the clay side so that it’s well lubed for decontamination 😏👍🏻
I’ve just bought the DIY detailing clay cloth not had a chance to use it yet , but claims it doesn’t induce marring. Love you to do a test of it against this mitt and a clay bar to see the contaminant removal /marring effects etc?
Hi Jon. First of all, thank you for the informative, and humorous videos. If and when you have time, could you perhaps do a brand review, or include in your videos EZ Car Care products as well please? I can’t find any decent, trustworthy reviews of them. Thank you.
Great review on something new! I use clay pads and they are easy to use and are quick. Not sure I would want to combine the mitt and clay tho. I think you pointed out if the car is dirty you may pick up dirt from the bucket, and need to rinse etc. A great idea tho, I probably don't clean my car as often as some so likely would stay with separate media.
I have the same burgundy clay mitt you have it’s a good piece of kit but as you say I don’t think it replaces a good clay bar and is only really good for a quick going over on a reasonably contaminant free surface. I’ve no doubt that the rupes mitt will be very high quality for what it is but I personally wouldn’t want to spend £40 on a clay mitt which I still believe isn’t as effective as the 4 plus high quality clay bars I could buy with the same money.
This product looks similar to the material used on The Rag Company or Optimum Polymer Technologies clay towel or sponges (Synthetic clay material side). It has those noticeable small holes in the material on the clay side, although the RUPES version you show here has a microfiber mitt side in addition so that's a nice addition if you need to flip it over and use the microfiber side quickly on a small section for some reason. I also like having both regular clay and these mitt type products available also. I like a regular clay bar for a full decontamination on my car where I am going to take my time. But I like using the clay mitts or sponges on sessions where the vehicle only needs a light decon. The synthetic clay mitts and sponges are effective when used correctly on lightly contaminated vehicles. The mitts and sponges are much quicker to use and save a ton of time on lightly contaminated vehicles and do an acceptable job, but they don't work as well on a deep decon of a vehicle that hasn't been clayed in a long time or ever for that matter. I always couple my clay sessions with an iron decon also (as a separate step) but I figure if I am deconning a vehicle, I just go ahead and make a day of it and go through all the steps. I only do a decon to a vehicle I own if it needs it, not every year, or on a schedule. I've went several years before it needed to be done again as my car is always garage kept and in pristine condition. My wife and I's daily drivers on the other hand, could easily benefit from clay treatments every six months!
I have my clay mitt for about 1 year and it can last a very long time. I use it paired with rinseless wash forlubrication and iron remover, all in one process, then rinse. This way you save a lot of time and also product, i dont use a lot of iron remover, only do 1 spray on the mitt and one spray on the panel.
Hi Jon ,turtle wax is just released a clay mitt it looks the same mitt has your one with the mesh clay side but a firm sponge the other side. It’s in a green colour and £15 from Halfords! ❤
Had one of those mitts with microfibre noodles on one side and clay pad on the other side a while ago.... I'm sure it was from Halfords lol. Thought it was kinda normal...and also though I was upgrading when I ditched it and changed to a separate mitt and clay bar 🤦♂
Have you ever done a review of the Meguiars ceramic clay pad kit? I’ve used it and thought it was effective & quick (at least with light contamination).
No m8 generally kits are a means to charge you a fortune. 10 pound for 200g of clay. Base all your decisions off that knowledge. Use waterless wash concentrate as lube. And you don't need a MF cloth in a kit but bulk MF
I think if you’re using a good prewash so there wont be as much contamination in your bucket and I’m going to be correcting after (which I’m sure that’s what rupes is marketing this towards since they are a polishing company) I’d be comfortable running the microfiber side over a panel to get the loose contaminants off then flipping and claying that panel with soap that’s already on the panel and in the mitt. It would definitely cut down on prep time for polishing jobs.
The only other dual sided mitt I can think of is the Rag Company one but that’s clay one side and bug scrubber the other. I wouldn’t use the Rupes to clean the car, but following the wash to apply the shampoo to lubricate the claying. Apply soap, flip and clay panel by panel.
These clay mitts/pads/ cloths are ok. Don't put any weight or pressure on the meda, if it is heavily contaminated, all you need to do is to keep going over the same area repeatedly until the contaminated area feels smooth like it should without any pressure at all, persistence is the prime key to these types of clay pads. Use a mixture of P&S Absolute rinseless wash and some Iron remover to remove more types of contamination would be my advice. They work well, as for cleaning, use some fresh rinseless wash and use your hand to rub over the clay area and rinse thoroughly. Do not wring dry. Roll it up and give it a slight squeeze and air dry. 👍
Might give of these a go. Someone else got there first on the jumper. How about a running jump then starfish on the bonnet, so contaminated in one hit !!
Hi Jon, great video! I really like the metal shelves you use to keep all your detailing product bottles on, great way to save space. Where did you get them from please? Any links? Thanks
That contamination you have in your car, there are also cleaning products for this. We have this every winter season in Finland, and I use petroleum based solvent (motox moottoripesu). Another example would be Macserien Prickbort if you are familiar with Macserien products from Sweden. It is very effective against this kind of stuff. Just spray, wait and rinse. Of course you will need an oil/water separator waste water system which is mandatory in law if you wash in your own garage. Petroleum solvant is also very bad for normal lets say carnauba waxes, but good ceramic coating is what you want. My point, you dont need clay mitt for this kind of stuff if you pick correct cleaning products. Some years ago I also used Clay mitt with shampoo water for this type of contamination, but it takes more time and clay mitt always makes swirls. Only moment I think this kind of clay mitt work is before full machine polishing. And my tip is to put shampoo from lance over the car and soak clay mitt in a shampoo bucket before touching paintwork as it is so aggressive (even mild ones), for soft clear coat cars.
Hi there, I also seen a bunch of people doing this kind of decontamination, and with sucess, I won't be claying as I think its kind of a thing of the past, do you know Stovels alfanol? Is it similar to the products you mentioned, the petroleum based? I would like to try this metod as claying always leaves marring and my paint is swilr free and I want to keep it that way. Also are those chemicals safe in ceramic coating, or do I need to reapply?
I think I prefer to take my time, not miss bits, and just use the old clay bar. I always use genuine 3M £40 blue bars that come in a white plastic pot, using Bilt Hamber Laboratories Auto QD at 10:1 as clay lube. TBH I can't find a better bar than the real-deal 3M and I've tried loads of different ones.
@@ForensicDetailing I may revisit the BH bars, I got on ok with the medium grade one, it's just that I found them too firm to reshape to fresh sides, so it may be worth keeping a kettle nearby to keep the bars softer.
@@chrispieri8377 the much more common problem is the turbos inlet pipe O-ring leaking tbf all s55 do it. Happens on low milage well kept examples, cheap part but labour plus it will happen again and again... the oil degrades the seal.
Did you end up finding the perfect chenille noodle wash mitt yet? The closest one i found is the chemical guys chinelle wash pad but its big thats the only thing i dislike about it
I do love a quality tool and I don’t mind paying more than I tell the wife, but it has to be good value, which this isn’t. The Farcela mitt you showed is also nice quality and if used gently (as it should be) for minor decontamination as you mention it should last a good while, plus it’s a third of the price of the Rupes. Pass on this one for me Jon. I now use the Farcela mitt and then switch to regular clay when I come across something it won’t shift, the mitt is quicker and causes less marring but it doesn’t always get the job done, so I have to switch to something tougher, but there is still no need to stick to just the one method for the whole car when it’s not needed.
Doesn’t seem worth it. I would prefer a 2-sided mitt for washing so I can just flip it and cover more wash area. If I need to do separate prep for clay might as well have a dedicated clay mitt that is 2-sided also.
I love the fact that your jumper matches the rupes wash/clay mit john
Do you mean SWEATER?! Here in the colonies, a jumper is a type of bib dress a woman/young girl would wear. Just bustin’ your chops here!
I've been using the clay towels from The Rag Company for years. My current one is about 4 years old now and has been used dozens and dozens of times. Since it is a fine grade clay, they will never fully replace a clay bar for vehicles that have severe contamination...but for mild to moderately contaminated vehicles they work really well. They are also useful for decontaminating ceramic coated vehicles without marring (when used and lubricated properly).
Great video Jon! Sporting the clay jumper today!!!🥳
& we're heading into summer.. life is gooooooooood 😀
Good video Jon. I tend to use clay sponge as I find this simply easier to work with. I guess I need to try the clay mitt that I also have and see if there is any subtle difference.
I've used a clay mitt but not seen one with a wash mitt type bit. I really like the clay mitt as a weekend warrior. Easy of use and claying makes for a decent surface for polishing but again I'm someone who does it on the driveway in a day/ over the weekend.
Awesome, whatever Rupes touches turns to Gold!!
Looks like an interesting product, think I’d wash with a noodle mit first, rinse, then use the microfibre to apply a sud coating, then flip to the clay side so that it’s well lubed for decontamination 😏👍🏻
I’ve just bought the DIY detailing clay cloth not had a chance to use it yet , but claims it doesn’t induce marring. Love you to do a test of it against this mitt and a clay bar to see the contaminant removal /marring effects etc?
Drying the microfiber side by wringing it out will lessen the effectiveness of the clay side over time?
Hi Jon. First of all, thank you for the informative, and humorous videos. If and when you have time, could you perhaps do a brand review, or include in your videos EZ Car Care products as well please? I can’t find any decent, trustworthy reviews of them. Thank you.
Great review on something new! I use clay pads and they are easy to use and are quick. Not sure I would want to combine the mitt and clay tho. I think you pointed out if the car is dirty you may pick up dirt from the bucket, and need to rinse etc.
A great idea tho, I probably don't clean my car as often as some so likely would stay with separate media.
Can you call some compounds/polishes that work really good by hand? Will koch chemie work by hand?
I have the same burgundy clay mitt you have it’s a good piece of kit but as you say I don’t think it replaces a good clay bar and is only really good for a quick going over on a reasonably contaminant free surface. I’ve no doubt that the rupes mitt will be very high quality for what it is but I personally wouldn’t want to spend £40 on a clay mitt which I still believe isn’t as effective as the 4 plus high quality clay bars I could buy with the same money.
This product looks similar to the material used on The Rag Company or Optimum Polymer Technologies clay towel or sponges (Synthetic clay material side). It has those noticeable small holes in the material on the clay side, although the RUPES version you show here has a microfiber mitt side in addition so that's a nice addition if you need to flip it over and use the microfiber side quickly on a small section for some reason. I also like having both regular clay and these mitt type products available also. I like a regular clay bar for a full decontamination on my car where I am going to take my time. But I like using the clay mitts or sponges on sessions where the vehicle only needs a light decon. The synthetic clay mitts and sponges are effective when used correctly on lightly contaminated vehicles. The mitts and sponges are much quicker to use and save a ton of time on lightly contaminated vehicles and do an acceptable job, but they don't work as well on a deep decon of a vehicle that hasn't been clayed in a long time or ever for that matter. I always couple my clay sessions with an iron decon also (as a separate step) but I figure if I am deconning a vehicle, I just go ahead and make a day of it and go through all the steps. I only do a decon to a vehicle I own if it needs it, not every year, or on a schedule. I've went several years before it needed to be done again as my car is always garage kept and in pristine condition. My wife and I's daily drivers on the other hand, could easily benefit from clay treatments every six months!
I have my clay mitt for about 1 year and it can last a very long time. I use it paired with rinseless wash forlubrication and iron remover, all in one process, then rinse. This way you save a lot of time and also product, i dont use a lot of iron remover, only do 1 spray on the mitt and one spray on the panel.
Hi Jon ,turtle wax is just released a clay mitt it looks the same mitt has your one with the mesh clay side but a firm sponge the other side. It’s in a green colour and £15 from Halfords! ❤
maxshine branded interesting.
Had one of those mitts with microfibre noodles on one side and clay pad on the other side a while ago.... I'm sure it was from Halfords lol. Thought it was kinda normal...and also though I was upgrading when I ditched it and changed to a separate mitt and clay bar 🤦♂
Have you ever done a review of the Meguiars ceramic clay pad kit? I’ve used it and thought it was effective & quick (at least with light contamination).
No m8 generally kits are a means to charge you a fortune. 10 pound for 200g of clay. Base all your decisions off that knowledge. Use waterless wash concentrate as lube. And you don't need a MF cloth in a kit but bulk MF
I think if you’re using a good prewash so there wont be as much contamination in your bucket and I’m going to be correcting after (which I’m sure that’s what rupes is marketing this towards since they are a polishing company) I’d be comfortable running the microfiber side over a panel to get the loose contaminants off then flipping and claying that panel with soap that’s already on the panel and in the mitt. It would definitely cut down on prep time for polishing jobs.
Where is your blue roll& glove box holder from? Can you provide a link please
The only other dual sided mitt I can think of is the Rag Company one but that’s clay one side and bug scrubber the other. I wouldn’t use the Rupes to clean the car, but following the wash to apply the shampoo to lubricate the claying. Apply soap, flip and clay panel by panel.
These clay mitts/pads/ cloths are ok. Don't put any weight or pressure on the meda, if it is heavily contaminated, all you need to do is to keep going over the same area repeatedly until the contaminated area feels smooth like it should without any pressure at all, persistence is the prime key to these types of clay pads.
Use a mixture of P&S Absolute rinseless wash and some Iron remover to remove more types of contamination would be my advice. They work well, as for cleaning, use some fresh rinseless wash and use your hand to rub over the clay area and rinse thoroughly. Do not wring dry. Roll it up and give it a slight squeeze and air dry. 👍
I have a clay & wash MIT combo for 12 bucks and it works great
At 01:50 I thought you were wearing a clay mitt too 😂😂😂
I love that you wore a jumper that looked like the wash mitt😂😂😂very creative.
*points finger and winks* :)
I dare you to wear that jumper without a tshirt😜🤣 go on, goaaaan!!!
Might give of these a go. Someone else got there first on the jumper. How about a running jump then starfish on the bonnet, so contaminated in one hit !!
Hi Jon, great video! I really like the metal shelves you use to keep all your detailing product bottles on, great way to save space. Where did you get them from please? Any links? Thanks
display pro mate. (custom depth)
I love my maxshine pad.
That contamination you have in your car, there are also cleaning products for this.
We have this every winter season in Finland, and I use petroleum based solvent (motox moottoripesu).
Another example would be Macserien Prickbort if you are familiar with Macserien products from Sweden.
It is very effective against this kind of stuff. Just spray, wait and rinse.
Of course you will need an oil/water separator waste water system which is mandatory in law if you wash in your own garage.
Petroleum solvant is also very bad for normal lets say carnauba waxes, but good ceramic coating is what you want.
My point, you dont need clay mitt for this kind of stuff if you pick correct cleaning products. Some years ago I also used Clay mitt with shampoo water for this type of contamination, but it takes more time and clay mitt always makes swirls. Only moment I think this kind of clay mitt work is before full machine polishing. And my tip is to put shampoo from lance over the car and soak clay mitt in a shampoo bucket before touching paintwork as it is so aggressive (even mild ones), for soft clear coat cars.
Hi there, I also seen a bunch of people doing this kind of decontamination, and with sucess, I won't be claying as I think its kind of a thing of the past, do you know Stovels alfanol? Is it similar to the products you mentioned, the petroleum based? I would like to try this metod as claying always leaves marring and my paint is swilr free and I want to keep it that way. Also are those chemicals safe in ceramic coating, or do I need to reapply?
I think I prefer to take my time, not miss bits, and just use the old clay bar. I always use genuine 3M £40 blue bars that come in a white plastic pot, using Bilt Hamber Laboratories Auto QD at 10:1 as clay lube. TBH I can't find a better bar than the real-deal 3M and I've tried loads of different ones.
the BH one strips more imo. you notice this when you need to remove overspray.
@@ForensicDetailing I may revisit the BH bars, I got on ok with the medium grade one, it's just that I found them too firm to reshape to fresh sides, so it may be worth keeping a kettle nearby to keep the bars softer.
Wow how things has changed
Any more drivetrain issues with the M4? Had one on my F80 M3 but it disappeared and hasn’t come back again. Turn it off and on seems to clear it.
it was fuel starvation for me. not had it again.
@@ForensicDetailing I assume you haven’t upgraded the crank hub either? Seems to be a big subject with these engines.
@@chrispieri8377 the much more common problem is the turbos inlet pipe O-ring leaking tbf all s55 do it. Happens on low milage well kept examples, cheap part but labour plus it will happen again and again... the oil degrades the seal.
When your jumper matches your new clay mitt lol
Did you end up finding the perfect chenille noodle wash mitt yet? The closest one i found is the chemical guys chinelle wash pad but its big thats the only thing i dislike about it
Carand in USA or autospa in EU do one
@@ForensicDetailing I cannot find carand and autospa. Have you got their website links maybe?
I do love a quality tool and I don’t mind paying more than I tell the wife, but it has to be good value, which this isn’t. The Farcela mitt you showed is also nice quality and if used gently (as it should be) for minor decontamination as you mention it should last a good while, plus it’s a third of the price of the Rupes. Pass on this one for me Jon.
I now use the Farcela mitt and then switch to regular clay when I come across something it won’t shift, the mitt is quicker and causes less marring but it doesn’t always get the job done, so I have to switch to something tougher, but there is still no need to stick to just the one method for the whole car when it’s not needed.
I prefer a pad that’s just a clay mitt. Will wipe the panel then if there is anything left finish with BH clay.
I’ve never seen that clay towel with the microfiber side
Farcela G3 works great for me and inly £11
Rather use a proper clay bar tbh, never been a fan of these types.
farecla g3 costs 11.44 quid ,4 instead of 1 rupes
I find clay-like mitts are more susceptable to marring the paint.
over time yer it gets worse and worse as the pad or mitt gets older and is more used.
Doesn’t seem worth it. I would prefer a 2-sided mitt for washing so I can just flip it and cover more wash area. If I need to do separate prep for clay might as well have a dedicated clay mitt that is 2-sided also.
3:20 Jon 👻ing
Just going to throw this out there.
Why not use a tack cloth?
If its good enough to remove contamination prior to painting.
Tack cloth is for dust etc for prior to painting, clay is for embedded contaminants like brake dust etc
Clay is more similar to sanding in its process and design
New way to clay? These clay mitts have been around for a very long time.
"They also do pads and assessories". Have you forgotten how to speak properly?
Don’t be so rude